Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Mike via CnC-List]

Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.

Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
electrons.  Right?

Mike
C&C 37 K/CB shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Mike,

I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell both 
zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), they 
did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.

Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are for 
fresh water.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault




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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Alan

The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost 
never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge the 
batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed, every 6 to 8 
weeks

So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the start 
battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that as an 
issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.  Next I took 
the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the same.  Next I 
disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside and checked for 
voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25 V.  I removed the 
positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw voltage.

Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might be 
creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.

Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist out 
there.


Mike
C&C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're 
cheaper than magnesium.

To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC line 
supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter should 
read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be pretty low.  
If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a return path, other 
than through the AC supply line.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Bob

I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and St. 
Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I really 
don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route

Mike 

On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
wrote:
What is the condition of your shaft zincs?

Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
type of water your boats in?

Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hey folks

I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion or 
stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, ground to 
engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and through hull 
I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind generator, with 
the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  Also the prop shaft 
was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled out to do the centre 
board.

Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
methodically and what I should look for.


Thanks in advance
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
Long Sault
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Mike via CnC-List]

Joe

I got dizzy just reading your post.  And you confirmed my worst fear.  I could 
hire a professional and watch him spend hours searching for the needle in the 
hay stack.

Mike
C&C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2018 10:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

You can have grounds places you don’t expect. The VHF radio may ground negative 
to the chassis that connects to the coax shield that connects to the body of 
the antenna loading coil that connects to the mount that connects to the mast.
Almost any SSB has the coax shield connected to negative that may have DC 
connectivity through the tuner.
Submersible centrifugal bilge pumps (Rule etc.) can have the metal pump shaft 
connected to DC negative, or even worse DC positive if you wire it backwards 
and it will pump just fine wired backwards.
Battery chargers can be a link between DC ground and the AC green wire bus 
outside of the intended connection.
Engines more or less carry DC ground to underwater metal. If the engine ground 
connection is bad, starting the engine will raise the underwater metal above DC 
ground voltage and so will battery charging.
Anything AC like an air conditioner is effectively connected to DC ground.
Etc etc
Back in the day I could spend hours and hours at $60/hr with meters and cables 
tracking this stuff down.


Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2018 1:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Thanks Joe

I think I’m suffering from stray current corrosion.  I’m on a ball at the yacht 
club and as said earlier, the only time I’m connected to AC is when Persuasion 
is on the hard.  I’ve started eliminating different devices looking for the 
leak.  A very slow process.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Aug 10, 2018, at 3:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I am a bit late to this, but FYI:
Galvanic corrosion is caused by two different types of metal in water that are 
electrically connected. The “less noble” metal is the one that corrodes, which 
is why we use zincs (or magnesium or aluminum).
There has to be a path between the metals for this to happen. This can get much 
much worse when on shorepower because all the boats in the marina end up wired 
together via the green ground wire connection. If no one buys new zincs but 
you, guess who supplies the entire marina with anode material? YOU DO! Galvanic 
isolators are 100% needed for any boat on shore power for this reason.
 
The other form of corrosion is stray current corrosion. This does not need 
different metals to work, just electricity flowing through the water. The 
current moves metal from one place to the other, this is how electroplating 
works. This can be very complicated to track down and can do a vast amount of 
damage very quickly. There are a lot of different ways this can happen, but 
imagine a boat with the keel connected to the ground bus, a negative ground 
engine, and a SSB ground plate with DC connection through to the radio. We now 
have 3 different underwater metals connected to the negative side of the DC 
system. If the onboard ground bus and wiring are not perfect, some current will 
flow through the water too.
 
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration

[Mike via CnC-List]

Reminds me of the time we were visiting the Etobicoke Yacht Club.  We were 
getting ready to leave and we kept hearing this beep, beep and couldn’t figure 
out where it was coming from.  Before we could get away some friends stopped by 
and we had a coffee.  I ask them if they could hear that annoying beep.  They 
could but they also could not determine where it was coming from.  While we 
were enjoying our coffee the DO came knocking and asked if we new the coast 
guard was looking for us and apparently everyone on Lake Ontario as well.  We 
didn’t.  He informed us that our EPIRB had gone off .  Upon investigation I 
found that the little pill that dissolves in water had deteriorated.  I 
immediately pulled the battery, and hailed the coast guard tp call off the 
posse.

What’s amazing is that I had never register the EPRIB when I bought Persuasion. 
 The coast guard called the previous owner who gave them my name.

So thank you Marek for bringing this to everyone’s attention.

Conclusion; if you have an EPRIB or any other such devise and are not actively 
sailing SHUT IT OFF.

Thanks
Mike

C&C 37
Shoal draft
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: April 11, 2018 12:43 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration

This might be of interest to some of us.
 
Apparently there are quite a few false alarms for EPIRB (and similar systems). 
there was an interesting blurb regarding this problem at Sail Feed:
 
https://www.sailfeed.com/2018/04/its-406-epirb-day/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter_SAIL180410
 
Marek

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Re: Stus-List how to build a house - hate missing a good rant

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I hate it when I miss a good rant.  Please change subject line when
ranting so that we can all see and appreciate a rant!

Many subjects are of lesser interest to me so I delete entire batches of
emails based on subject line.

Dang - a good rant missed.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
dwight via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 2:31 AM
To: 'Rich Knowles'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List how to build a house

The instructions come with the hammer

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles via CnC-List
Sent: May 6, 2014 2:22 AM
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixed batteries

His rant made me think that a box of nails should include instructions
on how to build a house.

Rich


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Stus-List Fuel Tank sender replacement

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

I have tank senders in my water and fuel tanks feeding a gage at the nav 
station. The Fuel sender is failing and I want to replace it. However I can't 
find an markings on the unit to determine the Ohm range it works with.

Is there some way to measure the resistance of the working sender to determine 
which sender to order? I do have a mulitmeter.


Thanks,

Mike Fair

Cio Cio San
Padnaram, Ma
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Re: Stus-List Wanted 37 R in North-east

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I race against the Third Wave regularly and we are docked two boats over from 
it.  It still sails to its rating and they have maintained the boat since Hal 
passed away two years ago.  Stephen is racing it as his homage to his father I 
believe and runs it almost as much as they did when Hal was with us.

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2014 8:52 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wanted 37 R in North-east

 

The one Chuck listed at: http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/26493

 

now named "Kedyw" used to be named "Top Gun V" and was based in Puerto Rico for 
years.  Lawrence Anthony Aqui used to own her and he was on this list for a 
while. I don't know anything about the present owners, they seemed to have used 
the boat for one season and then listed her for sale.  They're asking 
$40,000.00 USD.

 

The one in Halifax is a great boat. "Third Wave" It is for sale because its 
owner passed away a few years ago, otherwise he'd still be racing it.

(asking US$ 34,895.00):

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/C%26c-37R-2253255/Halifax/Canada#.U2wVOIFdU8A

 

The are several for sale in southern Ontario if your friend want to take one 
through the canal system from Oswego, NY.

 

They are:

 

1. "Clockwork" (asking US$ 44,078.00)

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/C%26c-37-40R-2447785/Toronto/Canada#.U2wV7IFdU8A

 

2. "My Shadow" (overbuilt and customised from the factory for the first owner, 
asking US$ 63,363.00)

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/C%26c-37R--Custom-2596208/Hamilton/Canada#.U2wWc4FdU8A

 

3. "Lager" (this one is not cheap, asking US$ 81,729.00)

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/C%26c-37r--2393800/Penetanguishene/Canada#.U2wWz4FdU8A

 

Ken H.

 

 

On 8 May 2014 20:20, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

Checkout Yachtworld.com for one in Halifax and one in Toronto.

www.sailboatlistings.com/view/26493 has the one in Brooklyn.

 

Be warned, these boats are 40 feet long and 8 ft draft.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

 



From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2014 5:50:40 PM
Subject: Stus-List Wanted 37 R in North-east

 

A friend of mine is looking for a well-priced C & C 37 R located in the north 
east ( Annapolis to Maine. Any leads welcome

 

 

 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

An excellent 25 lb bronze one came with my boat and I all ways use it. It is 
very helpful if you anchor where the currents shift with the tide. 

I can put 70LBs of metal near  or on the bottom. But only retrieve 40lbs at a 
time. Much easier on the back.

Mike
Padanaram, MA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 1:12 PM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

On 5/13/2014 12:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> On the topic of anchors and anchoring.  Does anyone have any thoughts 
> on kelets or "anchor buddies"?
>

I ALWAYS use a kellet made from a small vinyl coated mushroom anchor, a couple 
of carabiners, 30 feet of small diameter line for retrieval, and one of these 
so it glides up and down the anchor line:

http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4055115&cp=3677347.11360113

Open the pulley and slip it over the rode. Slide it closed, and hang the anchor 
on it using the carabiner. Retrieval line is tied to the carabiner. Easy-peasey!

In over 50 years, in conditions mild to wild, I have never dragged while using 
a kellet. I consider it essential, and it really is nothing to deploy and 
retrieve it.

Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List help

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Us Niagara 26 owners never go away even when our boats change .

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Graham Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 5:33 PM
To: Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List help

 

I know Dan, he is very dapper.  And his writing of the log while
commodore was first rate...  so I guess Rich is correct.

Welcome aboard Dan, wasn't sure your intentions when you sold the
Niagara...



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-14 5:00 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

Rich - did you just call Dan a "dressy scribe"?!   :^) 

 

Go to http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
and follow the instructions for changing your email address; or
unsubscribe and *re-subscribe* with the new email address.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI   :^(

 

On May 14, 2014, at 2:40 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List
 wrote:





Dan. Go to the cncphotoalbum site, unsubscribe an dressy scribe
to your new address. 

Rich

 






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Stus-List Battery Equalization

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

My 2 house batteries do not charge up to 12.8 V and since they are only a year 
old and charge only up to 12.6V I want to try to equalize them.

Has anyone had any positive EXPERIENCE  with the Pulse type chargers that claim 
to have an equalize stage?
I was considering something less than $100 and with a 1.5 amp rating.  I have 2 
group 31 deep cycle batteries.

I will be going thru my changing circuit on my boat this year but in the 
meantime I hope to de-sulfate my 2 batteries.

I am not interested in starting  a whole new battery charging discussion. That 
has been covered in detail here and on other various forums .



Thanks,

Mike
Padanaram.MA

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Re: Stus-List Original Invoice Prices

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Blue Horizon No. 1. 1981 C&C 36

 

I believe Dad said they paid $65,000 in October 1980 + $20,000 to outfit
with electronics and sails.  $12,000 of that was the Loran-C and the
radar.  The broker guaranteed that it would hold its value for at least
ten years and it did.

 

Current owners are Brian and Nancy Todd who we ski with.  Small world

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 9:16 PM
To: Ron's Hardwood; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Original Invoice Prices

 

The best info I have on Calypso's original invoice is from the USCG
"Abstract of Title".

 

In April of 1971 a mortgage of $110,000 was recorded.  I expect this
price included sails, instruments, and other commissioning costs.  The
boat was named "Arieto" and is hull #1 of the Limited Edition 43'
designs.  It was raced in the 1971 SORC as a C&C "factory" boat then
sold "off soundings" to the owner that campaigned the 43' "Arieto"
extensively up and down the US east coast.

 

Somewhere around 1975/76 the boat was listed for sale with a price of
$97,000, well equipped for racing but with high mileage.  From the USCG
abstract it appears that she was "traded in" to Palmer Johnson in
December 1976.  I have seen references to the original owner campaigning
a Frers 46 in the late 70's under the same name, "Arieto".

 

In 1978 the 43 was sold by Palmer Johnson to an owner on Lake Michigan
and renamed "Phantom".  No price is indicated.

 

In 1986 the 43 was sold to an owner racing out of Chicago and renamed
"Esta Es".  I guess the price was between $75K and $80K based on some
references to mortgages.

 

We bought the 43 in December 1998 for +-$67K, trucked her to Seattle and
renamed her "Calypso".  Ask me about a current value after we complete
the ongoing deck restoration projects.  The asking price range for C&C
43's of this vintage run from $49K un-restored to $180K for a very nice
fully updated boat.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron's
Hardwood via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 7:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Original Invoice Prices

 

I would like to hear from some of the owners of the older C&C boats to
find out the original invoice prices of their boats. I think that it
will be very interesting for us to go back in time and compare the
original prices to today's current value to see the actual depreciation
over a long period of time. 

 

I just received my third survey on Alchemist, a 1986 C&C 29 Mk 2. 14
years ago it was valued at $40,000.00, 6 years ago $24,000.00 and today
$18,000.00. The interesting thing is that I put in about $15,000.00 over
the last few years in new sails, feathering propeller, instruments,
rebuilt engine and transmission, and other incidentals.  

 

My cost per sail is actually quite reasonable. If I take into
consideration my annual club costs, repairs & maintenance, insurance,
replacement of racing sails, fuel, depreciation,  etc. divided by the
number of sails a year (about 65 times) my costs are about $100.00 per
sail. There are many boats on the lake that only leave the dock a few
times a year with costs that are similar to mine so their cost per sail
is significantly higher.

 

Ron Ander

E.Y.C.

Toronto

 



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Re: Stus-List Why via?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Steve

 

You are Special.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 12:03 PM
To: Stews List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Why via?

 

I don't use Yahoo.
My ISP is sympatico, which uses the Microsoft Hotmail (live.com) server.
 
I see everyone else's names, is it just mine that appears this way?
Is there something I can do to fix this?
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
 



Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 11:41:49 -0300
To: stumurra...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Why via?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

There are so many problems with Yahoo that perhaps the listers using
them should consider changing instead of inconveniencing you and others.


Rich


On May 16, 2014, at 11:29, Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

Why do my replies to the list show up as being from "via
CnC-List" in stead of from yours truly?

What am I doing wrong?

 

Something has gone haywire.

 

It's a work-around fix for Yahoo's DMARC problems.

 

Stu

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Re: Stus-List Strange HIN, can anyone clarify

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

C&C in that era often made the hull in one year and completed the boat the 
next.  This is not the only C&C that is a 74 model but hull was 73.  Dry Red 
C&C 25 #148 was same thing

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 10:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Strange HIN, can anyone clarify

 

A friend is looking at a 1974 30-1 in Beaufort, NC. The seller gave us a copy 
of a recent survey of the boat.

 

On the survey the hull number is listed as "300116" which is probably taken 
from the metal plate in the cockpit. Model 30. Hull #116. Makes sense.

 

But the HIN shown for the boat is MDZ45139G473, which seems all wrong. For one 
thing, the date would make this a 73 model not a 74. And MDZ is the 
manufacturer code for a home made boat built in Maryland.

 

Can anyone help me clarify what appears to be an error or typo in the survey? 
Does anyone her have a HIN like this.?

 

Rick brass

Sent from my iPad

 

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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Dwight,

Are we getting a wee bit cranky?

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of dwight via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 02/06/2014 5:52 PM
To: wiscomik...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions
 
THAT'S 6 OR 7 TIMES FOR THE SAME EMAIL, I HOPE YOU GET SOME ANSWERS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List
Sent: June 2, 2014 3:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

 


Hi all, I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast
wedges for my LF 38. What is the approximate gap between the mast and the
collar? Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

 

  _  

From: via CnC-List ; 
To: ; 
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 3 
Sent: Mon, Jun 2, 2014 4:00:03 PM 

 


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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH! (Ken Heaton via CnC-List)
  2.  ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH! (Alex Giannelia via CnC-List)
  3. Re:  Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
  (Chris Price via CnC-List)
  4. Re:  Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
  (Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 09:25:08 -0300
From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List  >
To: Alex Giannelia  >, cnc-list
 >
Subject: Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
Message-ID:
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Alex,

5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like
the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the
power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
inlet cable, what does the list think?

Be very careful when you do this.  It can work but can also be dangerous.

Single phase electrical services have two different hots in 180 degree
opposite phase to each other.  Generally, half the outlets in the marina
will be on one phase and the other half on the opposite phase.  If you end
up with your "Y" combiner on opposite phases there will be a very big bang
before the breaker trips as you will effectively dead short the two
hot phases of the system together.  Generally all the odd
numbered circuits will be on one phase and the even on the opposite
but this isn't always true, especially if it is a small panel.

You will have to test this test this by using an AC voltmeter that is rated
for at least 250 volts AC to measure the voltage between the two outlets
you want to share, measuring between the two hots (the small flat opening,
the larger flat one is the neutral and the "D" or 'U" shaped one is the
safety ground).  If they are on the same phase the meter will read 0 volts
and you can use those two outlets.  If they are on opposite phases the
meter will read 240 volts (or so) and you can't use those, you will have to
keep testing until you find a pair on the same phase.  They probably won't
be next to each other as it is usual for adjacent outlets to be on opposite
phases.

Three phase services are a bit more complicated, the outlet numbering per
phase will be different, but the results will be the same, the voltmeter
between outlets on the same phase will read 0 volts, on
different phases will read 208 volts (or thereabouts).

You want both legs of your "Y" combiner in the same phase, every time, for
this to work.

You will probably have an issue with helpful people unplugging one side of
your adapter and plugging it in to a different outlet, for whatever reason,
with nasty results.  You will have to come up with a way to prevent them
from doing this.

I hope my explanation is clear?

Ken H.


On 2 June 2014 05:56, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List  >
wrote:

> Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden
> voyage under electric power.
>
>
>
> Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load
> of dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in
> the water!
>
>
>
> Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
>
>
>
> 1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don?t even know you are
> running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash
> swirls.
>
> 2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
>
> 3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised
> was due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so
> long,

Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I am just a wee bit curious.  Did c&c put cb in these boats for a reason?  do 
they suck upwind without them? Do they capsize?  .. or was the designer an anal 
idiot that put something totally unnecessary and useless and complicated on the 
boat?

Sorry Edd. I read this and just gotta ask

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 02/06/2014 6:53 PM
To: Edd Schillay; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit
 
Edd,

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges...

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to release 
the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which stopper he 
pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.

We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled the 
cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so over due 
for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the replacement - and 
when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 70% or more worn 
thru, the thimble was also well worn ...

Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
board.

The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing days!

Paul. :)


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Just curious - does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their centerboard 
and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I'm curious to know how much credit 
was given. I've been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 points. '

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow.

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain's Log if you're curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world's only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rick

 

One thing to add to what you have been told.

 

Check to see that the leaks are from between the aluminum frame and the window 
pane rather than from between the aluminum frame and the boat.  I suspect this 
is in fact the case and if so DO NOT remove the aluminum frame as there is no 
need.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
Jorgensen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 9:06 AM
To: 'Rick Brass'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Hi Rick,

This is an absolute wealth of information that will save me 
time, frustration and should lead to a successful repair.  She is a 1973 boat 
with the aluminum frame so your repair advice and detail is already invaluable. 
 Additional information would be appreciated, but with what you have already 
provided makes a new C&C 30 sailor very happy.  I hope someday that I can repay 
the favor to you or other C&C owners, but will certainly let you know of the 
outcome after the repair is made.

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

Gloucester, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Richard;

 

This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth 
of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives.

 

But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for 
non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum frame 
mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted with a seal 
inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window into the frame. 
This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so. 

 

Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with a 
material called Plexus.

 

I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any 
glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats 
cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll 
of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is 
in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to 
purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on Ebay 
pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.

 

If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions 
for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes 
part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high 
loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind. 

 

If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more 
information to you.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC.  

 

 

-Original Message- 
From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List 
Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 



Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does 
anyone have any experience, advice or suggestions?

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

 
 
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rich

 

Not a minuette.  I had one of those for a number of years back in the day and 
we kept it moored in NW Arm.  There is a really pretty blue Minuette moored 
currently in Purcell’s Cove.

 

The Minuette is 19 ft LOA and has a cuddy for stowing sails but no cabin.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 7:40 PM
To: Graham Collins; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

 

Haven't even looks at the pics, but is it a McVey Minuet? Just a WAG. 

Rich


On Jun 2, 2014, at 19:31, Graham Collins via CnC-List  
wrote:

I agree it isn't a Bluenose, but a bluenose is 23' 3" LOA per specs.  
16 ft on the waterline though, she has pretty long overhangs.




Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 7:23 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List wrote:

The issue with the Bluenose is that it is only maybe 16 feet 
long and this boat is obviously much bigger. The cape dory I linked has the 
same port configuration, but I agree that the stern is wrong. There were a ton 
of "me too" boats in that era, so this could even be from some company that 
built 10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems the right size range. The 
roue 20 lacks the wood coamings, and has slotted metal toerails. To me it seems 
like just another of the "me too" boats with lines approximately borrowed from 
CD. This boat has many CD inspired visual clues. The little triangular second 
set of spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably wrong, 
but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks similar but not identical 
to a Sea Sprite.

http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781

Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:

The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not 
as sleek as the lttle Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but 
the Roue 20 is 30 feet long

 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of 
this boat?

 

http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html


Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

 
 

 







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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

Pharmacies.
-Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:42 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the 
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light 
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

West marine sells ritchie compass oil.
On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and 'drove 
her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out a-ok. Then I 
turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know where a guy can 
get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they had was heavy mineral 
oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that developed an air bubble tonight 
.. oops.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don't  forget a lucky coin!

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM

To: Stevan Plavsa; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast
Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as you 
loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie.

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under a 
winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it was 
> a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club to 
> step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do my 
> boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
>
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast base 
> that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the other 
> day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget to put 
> the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my mistake and 
> took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way aft. I guess 
> this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to how this might 
> affect the rig, sail shape, etc?
>
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they are 
> supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used 
> halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix 
> this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the mast 
> itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches? What 
> would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers? I'de 
> rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just disconnect 
> it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to do it again.
>
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
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Re: Stus-List C&C 32 Genoa sheets

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bob

Joined rnsys today. j27 moving to Halifax full time

mike


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Wed 18/06/2014 10:39 PM
To: Rick Taillieu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 32 Genoa sheets
 
I agree with Rick on 60'..at the very least 48' each but if you use 
a spin pole or whisker pole, the extra length will be convenient.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/06/18 4:56 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> John,
>
> The 32 owner's manual says: 2 X 60' of ½" double braid for the genoa 
> sheets.
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Nemesis
>
> '75 C&C 25 #371
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
> *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *John Russo via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-18-14 14:58
> *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 32 Genoa sheets
>
> I am about to purchase new sheets for my 135% Genoa to be compatible 
> with my new St 40 Primary winches and measured my old sheets up at  a 
> total of 94 Ft. Seems a bit excessive. Some rough estimates get me to 
> 84 Ft total. Any sources and experience for the recommended length of 
> sheets for a 135% on a C&C 32?
>
> John
>
> Arpeggio 1984
>
> Norwalk, CT
>
> 
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3972/7699 - Release Date: 06/18/14
>
>
>
> ___
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> at:
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>


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Stus-List change of handle

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We have just made a change from a racy and fun J/27 to a cruise CArroll Marine 
Frees 33.  New boat located in Dartmouth, Massachusetts and needs to get to 
Halifax, NS.  Sail it, have it delivered by water or by road.  Thoughts?

Mike

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Re: Stus-List change of handle

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks andy


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Sat 21/06/2014 14:06
To: Robert Abbott; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List change of handle
 
If it was my new boat I couldn't wait to sail it. I'd take a week or so to
do the trip (this assumes it passed a good survey). I'd plan to leave
Dartmouth and get the boat sorted out over the course of a day heading for
the C Cod Canal and then stop at one end. I'd probably spend the next day
sorting through any problems and getting to know the boat better. Depending
on the forecast, I'd either go to Provincetown or Marblehead the next day.
probably Marblehead because from P-town it's a long overnight to NS. from
M-head, I'd head up the coast to Portland ME and then start thinking about
weather and departure points for NS. All this while I'd be learning the
boat and getting more comfortable with her. When the weather was right, I'd
hop over to Yarmouth and then up the coast in hops to Halifax. By the time
I arrived, I'd have the boat sparkling and have gotten to know her very
well...and have a mile-long list of things to do.
Cost may well be more than hauling the rig and dismantling for trucking
then putting her back together again at the other end, but I doubt it. And
the adventure and experience would be priceless!
YMMV

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On 2014/06/20 11:18 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>
> We have just made a change from a racy and fun J/27 to a cruise CArroll 
> Marine Frees 33.  New boat located in Dartmouth, Massachusetts and needs to 
> get to Halifax, NS.  Sail it, have it delivered by water or by road.  
> Thoughts?
>
> Mike
>
> --
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

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Re: Stus-List change of handle

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Dwight

 

I think that would be a fun  sail.  When the boat eventually gets here
and Koobalibra is in Cape Breton we will likely do a couple Wednesday
races.  Prior to that we could just go for a sail.

 

Mike

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
dwight via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2014 5:16 PM
To: 'Robert Abbott'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List change of handle

 

Hi Mike and Robert

 

IMHO that Frers 33 is a speedy well built boat and I think a very fun
boat to sail and from what I could find out I liked it a lot, there were
none around here to see...I checked one out quite seriously before I got
Alianna and even still I wonder if I made the right choice for me and
what I like to do on the water...Mike, I would like to crew with you for
a day when you get her home because I would like to feel what a Frers 33
is like under sail, nothing to do with meeting 7you; sorry...I want to
feel her trimmed for performance; maybe Robert would like that
too...I'll bring the treats...coud be a good day on the water...you will
have enough cruising comforts in your new boat and there wont be many
cruisers blowin by you upwind

 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: June 21, 2014 1:47 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List change of handle

 

Mike:

Call Philip Stevens, Sealand Industries, in Chester and get a price from
him to go get your boat and truck it home.  I bet your will spend at
least half the cost of going to get it yourself and sail it back, plus a
week's vacation, added to the risk of sailing a new boat you know
nothing about on a 400 mile trip.  The boat probably does not come with
a 'liferaft' and if you can't borrow one for the trip, you will have to
rent one for a week and that's another few $hundred bucks$.

You will get different opinions but that's what I would do.  Congrats on
the new boat.look forward to seeing it at the club.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2014/06/20 11:18 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

We have just made a change from a racy and fun J/27 to a cruise
CArroll Marine Frees 33.  New boat located in Dartmouth, Massachusetts
and needs to get to Halifax, NS.  Sail it, have it delivered by water or
by road.  Thoughts?
 
Mike
 







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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3972/7695 - Release Date:
06/17/14

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Re: Stus-List Beneteau

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bill

 

Glastron was part of AMF at one time I believe who manufactured Spirit
sailboats.  So not completely Dark Side

 

Now that my father is gone I guess it is up to me to send the long
rambly history style memos ...

 

Our family had powerboats.  Springbok, then Glastron.  The boat we had
in the lake was not suitable when we moved to an inlet off the ocean.
No more water skiing and even a deep vee when we changed did not get
used.  Local gastron dealer found out he could also sell Spirit
sailboats.  So Dad worked out a deal where he bought a Spirit 28 and the
motorboat dealer put it in the boatshow with mast up so that he could
get a spot in the middle of the floor with all his powerboats and his
lone sailboat.

 

Less than two years later the Spirit 28 "High Hopes" was replaced with
the C&C 36 "Blue Horizon No. 1" in 1980.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 10:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Beneteau

 

Going over to the dark side.

 

The Beneteau Group announced it bought Rec Boat Holdings, a group of
U.S. brands owned by Platinum Equity Group, which includes
Michigan-based Four Winns, Glastron, Wellcraft and Scarab.

 

Beneteau says the acquisition is in line with the group's development
strategy for the North American market. The private equity group retains
ownership of Flippin, Ark.-based Fishing Boat Holdings, maker of the
Ranger, Triton and Stratos boat brands that were also acquired at that
time.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

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Re: Stus-List Newport to Bermuda race features new C&C Redline 41

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

How on earth do they determine its rating? Irc or otherwise?  Is brand
new ...

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 6:13 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Newport to Bermuda race features new C&C Redline
41

 

At the risk of being the bearer of not great news...

The Redline 41 "Jackknife II" is last in Class 6 (class 6) and 72 of 89
in St. David's division.

Not surprising that a new boat unfamiliar to the crew would have a tough
opener.   

Personally I would not take a boat off-shore so soon after manufacture.
Especially as it is the first off the rack.   

Kudo to their, and the rest of the fleets,  patience in sticking it out.

We once took 6 1/2 days (almost to the minute) in the 1997 running of
the Bermuda 1-2.   Ugh. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)





Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 10:25:35 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Newport to Bermuda race features new C&C Redline 41
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

If anyone is following the "new" C&C 41 Redline development, it has just
pulled into Bermuda with a cluster of other yachts. My guess, it is in
the top third of competitors.

 

Not bad for the first regatta.

 

Congrats to all those involved!

 

Peter Delean

Drifter II

C&C 30 Mk-1


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Re: Stus-List getting seasick (and yes more of my drivel)

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Wally

We never tire of your stories

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Wally Bryant via CnC-List
Sent: Thu 26/06/2014 12:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List getting seasick (and yes more of my drivel)
 
Jake wrote:
> Some side effects can be severe. 

Okay, here's a Stugeron side effect story.  July of 2010 I was up at 
Bahia de Los Angeles (28.954N 113.548W) and I don't want to say it was 
rustic but the village was proud of having had electricity for four 
years, and getting diesel meant a two mile hike carrying jerry cans in 
105F sunshine.  I had invited a friend I'd known for 25 years to drive 
down (with a pickup load of spare parts) and go cruising the nearby 
islands for a week, doing some diving and snorkeling and fishing.  He 
wasn't a sailor, but I don't need crew.

He did send an email asking if he could bring a friend, and I said 
'sure, but three is about all that can fit on the boat right now.' 
Apparently he didn't get the memo.

Imagine my surprise when four guys showed up, three of which were primed 
for a party weekend in Cabo San Lucas.  I was thinking 'this is going to 
be very interesting.'  One guy asked 'where's the nearest t_t_y bar' and 
I said 'Ensenada, you drove through it about 400 miles back.'  
Eventually I got them on the boat (it was like herding drunken cats) and 
got under way.

Fast forward 36 hours, after two guys decided to have a food fight in 
the cockpit (which I stopped by explaining that we were 100 miles from 
the nearest place where I could wash the boat down) and we'd swamped the 
dinghy (which actually *can* carry five grown men but only if you don't 
make any sudden moves) and two of my shot glasses were overboard.

One guy admitted that he couldn't swim, which is a drag because the only 
way to get comfortable there in July is to jump overboard.  I knew an 
island with a little two foot deep tidal pool, so I headed there.  I 
explained that it was full of baby sting rays, so shuffle the feet.  He 
didn't have a good time.  I told him that uric acid would relieve the 
pain.  He told me that he had always hated boats and the ocean, and even 
when he lived in a beach town never actually touched the water.  I 
refrained from asking what he was thinking when he decided to spend time 
with a guy who lives on a boat on the ocean.

I asked them all what they wanted to do next, and there was a universal 
'*I wanna go home*' with the exception of the friend that I had actually 
invited, who was feeling pretty bad about the situation.  He knew that 
we could have had a great time diving, snorkeling and fishing, but he'd 
blown it.

So we motored back to the truck.

Here's the Stugeron part of the story.

We're motoring in dead calm, with the sea like glass.  One of the guys 
says 'I'm feeling seasick' and my first reaction was to laugh and say 
'dude, you don't know what seasick is...'  but I'd been mollycoddling 
those boys for long enough that I was just tired of it.  So I told them 
where the Stugeron was, in the medicine cabinet in the head.  It was 
like watching bait fish feed on puke.

I'm serious, it was dead calm with sea like glass.

After they'd passed the Stugeron around, the non-swimmer asked 'Should I 
take TWO?'  At which point I made an executive decision and decided to 
mess with this guy's head.

I explained that Stugeron was banned in the USA, and I had to get it 
through a Canadian company that exported it from Europe.  (*the joke 
starts here..*)  The reason that it was banned in the USA was because it 
works by constricting blood vessels in male genitalia and sending the 
blood to the inner ear.  One pill will prevent seasickness but will also 
prevent the man from achieving manhood for two weeks.  If one takes two 
pills, then the blood constriction in the genitalia will be too great, 
and will create a gangrenous situation that can only be resolved by 
surgical removal of the genitalia.

So they gave me my Stugeron back, and I put it back in the medicine cabinet.

Wal

PS.  Don't ever play Dominoes with me.  I tried to tell these folks 
today that I just wanted to have fun, but they insisted that we play for 
money.  I really just want to have fun, but if you want to take my money 
I can only smile...

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

30 is cheaper to maintain

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Beckett 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!

 

Hi All,

 

I am a new owner of a 1973 C&C 30 Mk1. I have fallen in a love with the brand 
of C&C and am really enjoying sailing even though I have only owned the boat a 
couple months. 

 

I am a single 31 year old guy, but I have been thinking a 35-45 footer may have 
been a better move. There was a 1980 42' foot Landfall sent to me for about the 
same about of money that I have into my 30 footer! 

 

What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my impulsiveness 
and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a sport/lifestyle/hobby for 
me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for such a great price is 
tempting!!!

 

Warm Regards, 

 




Ryan S. Beckett

Partner & Co-Founder

561.301.6337 mobile

 

  

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Re: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

If 'John' was stuck in Nigeria would you send him money?


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 10:07 AM
To: john.irv...@hotmail.com; JOHN D IRVIN; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin

Which John Irvinn or John Irvin am I talking to?

John, where are your family and friends?

And hopefully there is more than one flight out of Kiev.




On 2014/07/11 8:11 AM, JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List wrote:

I hope you get this on time, I made a trip to Kiev, Ukraine and had my bag 
stolen from me with my passport and personal effects therein. The embassy has 
just issued me a temporary passport but I have to pay for a ticket and settle 
my hotel bills with the Manager.I have made contact with my bank but it would 
take me 3-5 working days to access funds in my account, the bad news is my 
flight will be leaving very soon but i am having problems settling the hotel 
bills and the hotel manager won't let me leave until i settle the bills, I need 
your help/LOAN financially and i promise to make the refund once i get back 
home, you are my last resort and hope, Please let me know if i can count on you 
and i need you to keep checking your email because it's the only way i can 
reach you.

Thanks,
John


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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! 
Antivirus protection is active.






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Stus-List B&G Instruments

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Anybody on this list use B&G H1000 series instruments?  I have these on
my Frers 33 and the displays are sometimes difficult to read (esp at
night and on angles) and are starting to lose some of what I call raster
lines (for lack of proper term).  Does anyone know if there is a newer
Multifunction display that is compatable with the behind the scenes
computers and transducers?

Thanks Mike

Persistence
1987 Frers 33
(I know - not a C&C)


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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

There are a lot of better options available these days than a fixed 3
blade prop.  There are geared props and othe types of folding props that
give nearly or exactly the same power in reverse as a fixed prop but
they are expen$ive!

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding prop

 

Hi Skip, 

I just put-on an old school Martec folder and I love it.  Combined with
a clean bottom  (But old sails) and a few tweaks the boat just flies. I
was out in 15-22 true wind breeze last week and detroyed my old 7.0
knots record with a whopping 8.3 (GPS Calibrated) knots sailing close
hauled.. On the way home cruisin' on an easy beam  / broad reach we were
still cookin' along 7.0 to 8.2 knots all the way..  

In less exciting winds this saturday,, We were making 6.0+ knots on  8.0
knots of true wind,,  Long story short since I am into sailing.. I love
it.  Even if you are not racing.. Isn't it nice the know the boat has an
edge on speed and efficiency?  

As for actual motoring,,  The acceleration is pretty mild both in
forward and reverse.  There's also a fair amount of prop walk in
reverse.  Once under way it will make about 6.8 knots at cruising RPM's
(2,850) on my 27 hp Yanmar.  So it's pretty efficient.  It also causes
more vibrations than the fixed prop (I'm still working on that looking
at prop  / hull clearance and perhaps fine tuning the pitch). 

As for manually lining-up the prop to make sure the blade are
horizontal, that's a 30 second job my son is glad to do or I can do
myself easily. 

For family's usage on our lake / at our marina, the slow reverse
acceleration / prop walk is a total non-issue.  It just requires a
little more advance planning and if you play your cards right the prop
walk introduces an added dimension in your ability to control the stern
/ pivot the boat on it's own axis.  

I do however find that rippin' up and down the lake at "This can't be
right" speeds blowing by bigger "Faster" boats is most satisfying.. 

To each his / her  own, have fun sailing this summer.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List Old Boat Leaks

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Steve

When we bought our last boat I thought water must be coming in around
mast and obsessed about that for a while.  Then I started going aboard
whenever it was raining and I was nearby with a flashlight and a
notebook.  The harder it is raining the better.  Do this also on the
hard.  Bed everything you find the next sunny day.

What I noted on Nut Case was that the water was not from one source but
rather from a number of smaller sources.  Your best defense against
leaks to to start an aggressive rebidding program and remove and rebed
everything.  Ubless you have recently rebidded a fitting it likely needs
it anyway.  Remove fitting, overdrill the hole, dig out the surreounding
core, then fill hole with thickened epoxy and then redrill and rebed
using your preferred sealant.  I use 3M 4200 above water or Boatlife or
similar.  It took approximately 4 years to identify and eliminate almost
every leak.  

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
OldSteveH via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 2:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Old Boat Leaks

After 4 years with Diamond Girl I'm still trying to find and stop deck
leaks. I expect this is a quest that will never end but need to at least
make some headway ...
She's not all that leaky but we are still getting water after a good
rainstorm and I am curious what others main leak sources are.

Here is current leak status:
Thru hulls are all in newer condition
Stuffing box is correctly adjusted
Transducers do not leak
Portlights and hatches are all older but do not leak for the most part,
possible exception being head hatch cover.
Genoa tracks and coach roof jib tracks are reasonably good, they may let
in a bit of water. Curious how others have bedded their tracks.
Other coach roof fittings - no significant leaks.
Chainplates - recently resealed - unlikely to be a source of water Toe
rails need rebedding and may let in minor water but are generally ok.
Mast boot is not good, but I know about that and am working on it. Main
problem is that the vang fitting gets in the way of a good seal on the
mast.
Mast shackle collar - questionable - am looking into that. I have this
suspicion that it fills with water which then find its way inside. Am
considering drilling a couple of holes at base of collar to let water
drain out.
Water coming down inside the mast - not sure how significant this is or
what can be done about it.
Companionway cover/splash apron - probable leak source - not sure what
can be done about it.
(and yes I have Caseys book on deck repair)

All comments welcome and appreciated.


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
1982 C&C 34
Lions Head ON




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Re: Stus-List Play in the steering

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Dwight

New boat at rnsys.  If you and bob want to come sailing this weekend it would 
be fun.  Still trying to figure out the boat

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of dwight via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 14/07/2014 5:48 PM
To: 'Graham Collins'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Play in the steering
 
Graham

 

Are you able to reach the nuts on the starboard side adjustments.if so I could 
use your help 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: July 14, 2014 5:35 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Play in the steering

 

You guys must have freakishly long arms if you can reach the adjusting nuts for 
the cable on the rudder quadrant, on mine it is about 30" from the end of the 
quarterberth to the rudder shaft!  

My method to get in there is to close the port cockpit drain seacock, pull the 
hose off it and get it out of the way, and then I can slide in on my back.  Not 
that I like it, but that works for me.



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-07-14 2:05 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Alan, 

 

Good to know the nuts can be reached through the access panels!?  I discovered 
this weekend that one of mine has no nut.  I was dreading trying to crawl in 
there.

 

Joel

35/3

 

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 12:31 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 wrote:

You may need to remove the cockpit drain hose in the port cockpit locker to get 
to the quadrant (find a long, thin person would be my advice).  Good advice on 
the top bearing nuts - that took a lot of play out of my steering when done 
last year. 

 

Tim

 

Mojito

C&C 35 Mk III

Branford, CT

 

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 11:19 AM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

David:

 

Center the wheel and lock it in place with the brake.  Then tighten the four 
screws that hold the bearing around the rudder post to the cockpit floor.  
You'll have to remove the helm seat in order to reach in through the access 
ports so you can hold the nuts with a wrench.  Once that is done, you can 
tighten the turnbuckles that are used to adjust the cable tension until you 
have the amount of play with which you are comfortable.  You can reach the 
turnbuckles through the port cockpit locker, and possibly through the access 
panel in the back of the quarter berth.  Now would be a good time to check the 
cables to make sure they are not frayed.  Take a piece of facial tissue 
(Kleenex) and hold it loosely around the cable, while someone moves the wheel 
through it's full rotation.  If there is any fraying, the tissue will catch it, 
and it would be advisable to replace the cable.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 






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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7846 - Release Date: 07/13/14


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Stus-List Senders email address in From field

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Stu

In the past an email sent to this list contained the senders email
address in the FROM line.  This was nice for replying tot the sender off
list.  Was this removed intentionally?

To the other members of this list.  Do we like having our email address
shown when we send the email?

Mike
Persistence and Nut Case (for now)
Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Senders email address in From field

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thank You Stu

Did not realize both sender and list were included in reply.  That is a
great feature

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Senders email address in From field

Mike and others

When an email is sent by a subscriber to the list, the email From Line
contains the sender's name and "via CnC List".  This way you know who is
sending the email and it is coming from the List.

If you reply to the message, the to line will include the original
sender's name plus the CnC List.  That way you can send a reply to just
the sender or the list or both -- just delete who you don't want.

I think it is a good idea to know who is sending the message before I
even read it or the subject line.

Stu


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Re: Stus-List B&G Instruments

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Fred

 

So then back to the original question.  Could these B&G H1000 era
transducers be effectively connected to newer Raymarine displays?  All
of the data seems good on the B&G.  The wiring and the boxes in behind
the bulkheads look almost new.  The transducers are obviously working.
The displays however are difficult to read from angles and on one there
are some lines missing on the bottom of the screen. I can however
effectively use all three but would prefer something much clearer.  The
former ST50 and ST60 series were very readable and the new ones
obviously more so.  Also - would not wish to have noticeable lag when
watching speed etc.

 

Am considering replacing with the ST50/ST60 tripack and removing and
selling the B&G H1000 transducers and wiring and everything as one
package.  Also have added a Raymarine A65 for nav station chartplotter
so it would work with the ST50/60 set and as a result have a working
Furuno G31 GPS and antenna to sell as well.  New stuff is so much
prettier.  Call me a crow.

 

Mike

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:12 PM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List B&G Instruments

 

Jean-Francois - just to expand on this, pretty much any older transducer
(and many of the new ones) do NOT directly output NMEA0183 or NMEA2000
data; most of the depth, speed and wind transducers need to be connected
to a display head which will then convert the signals into NMEA0183,
NMEA2000 or SeaTalk data.

 

The exceptions are the "smart" transducers from Airmar (and others; but
Airmar makes most of the transducers for most of the manufacturers);
these are capable of being directly connected to NMEA0183 or NMEA2000
networks.

 

You can also get boxes from some manufacturers that will convert the
older transducer outputs into usable network data.  An example would be
the ITC-5 from Raymarine which takes the analog outputs of speed, wind,
depth, temperature, fluxgate compass and rudder position transducers and
converts it all into a SeaTalkNG data stream that can be also used in
most cases on an NMEA2000 network.  It's a nice (and pretty inexpensive)
way to move into the newer data network topologies.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul 15, 2014, at 10:23 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
 wrote:





Hi Mike, 

The easiest thing would be to find out the nature of the signal is out
of the computers / transducers.  If it's NMEA 0183 compatible then you
just get a NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 converter (A Google search will easily
get that)  If not find out if there is a way to get the signal converted
to NMEA 0183 then you take that and convert it further to NMEA 2000. 

Once you get to NMEA 2000 than pretty much all MFD's  / chartplotters
can use it.  Of course you'll have some latency / refresh rate
annoyances as the conversion will introduce some lag in the process. 

Honestly though. It's probably worth a haul-out to pop then ancient
stuff out and pop-in fresh transducers. 

I had that done this spring. It was a surprisingly simple process, the
new masthead was pretty simple to install and speed / temp / depth
transducer takes just one through hull an is very accurate.  The
underwater transducer is the same standard size as the old one (Both
made by Airmar), it was basically and pop-off / pop-in job. 

I installed a pair of new B&G Triton MFD's and a Zeus chartplotter.  The
displays are amazingly clear  / easy to use / and full of neat features.
All the above works on a standard NMEA 2000 backbone so adding other
sensors  / displays in the future should simply be a plug and play into
the backbone affair regardless of the brand.  

Good Luck, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia





Anybody on this list use B&G H1000 series instruments?  I have these on
my Frers 33 and the displays are sometimes difficult to read (esp at
night and on angles) and are starting to lose some of what I call raster
lines (for lack of proper term).  Does anyone know if there is a newer
Multifunction display that is compatable with the behind the scenes
computers and transducers?

Thanks Mike

Persistence
1987 Frers 33
(I know - not a C&C)

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Re: Stus-List A real life "All is Lost"

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

There is not much privacy when using the head

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 1:21 PM
To: Michael Brown; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A real life "All is Lost"

 

Umm seriously would anyone pay 4 grand  for the privilege to fish this out of 
the water ? 

 

Tim

C&C 33MKII 

 Toronto   

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 12:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A real life "All is Lost"

 

Thankfully not mine.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/barrie/sailboat-as-is-where-is-all-is-lost/603720077?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1








This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 



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Re: Stus-List cockpit shower

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rich

 

“Autocorrect” maybe

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 2:10 PM
To: George Cone; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit shower

 

To complete my premature ejaculation, If all you want to do is have a shower, I 
suggest teeing off a couple of lines from your galley or head water supply and 
installing a tap set inside a cockpit locker with a shower hose attached. You 
can ways add water from the lake if you get short. 


Rich


On Jul 21, 2014, at 12:53, Rich Knowles  wrote:o

If all you want to do is have a shower, 

Rich


On Jul 21, 2014, at 11:46, George Cone via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The recirculating pump I mentioned is the pump that pulls the 
water from the engine and circulates it through the heat exchanger within the 
water heater. I am surprised the engine has a thermostat as high as 160 
degrees. It is raw water cooled. 160 degrees sounds like my shower would be 
good for cooking lobsters! I guess I probably need to tie into the hot water 
line, I was just liking the thought of unlimited water availability.

Thanks,

George

C&C 40 

 

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Re: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bruno

Summertime, pictou, shediac and Charlottetown are draft friendly. barrachois is 
not.  Bring swim trunks. Water is warm. A great anchorage is is Ames inside 
saddle island on Malagasy point side

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Tue 22/07/2014 12:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Northumberland strait Cruise
 

Hi,

I will be leaving the Baie des chaleurs next saturday for a 3 weeks Cruise down 
the Northumberland strait with friends to bring the boat down the strait as 
much as we can (4 days). and then my girlfriend will join me for our vacations 
and we will be slowly going back home...

Any advices by listers on where to go, what to do, where to eat, and where NOT 
to go with my 6.4´ draft would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Bruno
Bécassine, 33mkII
New-Richmond. Qc.


Envoyé de mon iPad
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Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

I'm looking for storm trysail, storm jib or possibly #3.

Thanks,

Mike Fair

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 3:02 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Sails to Donate

Listers,

Does anyone know of an organization (preferably charity) that 
accepts old sails as donations? I'd love to find one in the northeast that 
would be willing to come and pick them up. Have quiet a few old headsails and a 
couple of spinnakers that need new homes.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log

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Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

Wally,
Very nice offer. I'll be in Oaxaca in September but won't have time to swing 
by. My loss.

Thanks,

Mike Fair


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally Bryant 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate

Mike -

A long time ago someone (I think it actually was Fred) sold me an ATN storm jib 
that fits an LF38.  I've never used it, and have seen enough sloppy stuff that 
I realize I don't need it.  (Heck, I fly a 90 on the furler all the time, and 
even in light air I move along just fine.)

So you can have it if you want to fly down to Mexico and pick it up.  
Otherwise it'll probably end up at a swap meet next year.

Wal

Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> I'm looking for storm trysail, storm jib or possibly #3.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Fair


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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

I replaced my whole unit with a Lavac. It uses a manual diaphragm bilge pump 
(gusher style) and I  have had not one issue in 7 years of operations. Minimal 
moving parts and a favorite with live boards and bluewater cruisers. Cost was 
under $300.

Thanks,

Mike Fair
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:08 PM
To: Tim Goodyear; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

I'm chasing leaks on a VacuFlush system. 4 joker valves and a pump diaphragm so 
far. Aargh!
Rich

On Jul 31, 2014, at 12:35, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I 
replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job, but 
I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when I do it. 
 The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the system to clear 
scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still having issues with 
the pump losing prime and not drying easily without holding the valve leaver 
down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the metal backing washer from 
one of the inlet valve had corroded off the rubber piece, and while I was there 
I just changed all the parts that were in the service kit.

Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil, but I 
am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or twice a year, 
so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share experiences with 
their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no solids)?  I am considering 
the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.

Thanks,

Tim

On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking 
back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl and the 
anti-siphon loop.

As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
material.
I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  I 
think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.
Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes scale 
build up.
This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under $10 
and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
altogether.

Any other tricks?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

It's the state of drainage on the dilithium crystals

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 3:13 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

 

Listers,

 

Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage
reach 13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 

 

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any
suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

   All the best,

 

   Edd

 

 

   Edd M. Schillay

   Starship Enterprise

   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

   City Island, NY 

   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I don’t think of it either.  

 

Of course that is because I am old and way too heavy to be allowed on the bow

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

(yet another “not a c&c” boat – however I do race regularly on a 115 so I guess 
that counts – and a 99 as well)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 8:57 AM
To: Indigo; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker

 

It really is up to the bow person to keep the jib sheets forward / above the 
pole / topping lift.  It is not hard if the sheets are slack (no reason to keep 
them taught) and it's way, way easier with a furler than if you had dropped the 
jib.  Just one other thing for bow to remember in the gybe.  We don't even 
think of it these days.  I'm assuming you're doing dip pole, not what Josh was 
describing?

 

Tim

Mojito C&C 35-3

Branford, CT

 

On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:51 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
wrote:

Still trying to get the hang of racing with a symmetrical spinnaker - and 
sorely in need of advice!

I am setting up the pole with the lazy jib sheet over the pole and forward of 
the pole topping lift (taped back at the mast end of the pole)

Set goes fine, then furl the jib. However after a couple of gybes, I find the 
jib sheets always need re-running before being able to unfurl the jib before 
douse.

What am I doing wrong?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Radar chart plotter

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

I am interested. 

Thanks,

Mike Fair
413.587.6535

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Maturo, John 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 11:57 AM
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Radar chart plotter

I have 10 yr old furuno radar and chart plotter with 2 chart chips covering nj 
to Maine  

The boat is in new London. Call if you are interested. 

Ashe Baltic 39

John Maturo
203-494-6782

> On Aug 1, 2014, at 11:16, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  3/4 ton rehab (Della Barba, Joe)
>   2. Re:  big $$$ used C&C (Jerome Tauber)
>   3. Re:  big $$$ used C&C (Petar Horvatic)
>   4. Re:  big $$$ used C&C (Joel Aronson)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:08:02 +
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: Burt Stratton , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>
> Subject: Stus-List 3/4 ton rehab
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> We used to race against a ? ton special painted black called 007. 
> Boat-for-boat we were as close to dead-even as could be but we owed them 
> time. If memory serves we rated 126 and they were 130-140 something. I found 
> out Rust-Oleum (yes those guys) make marine paint at something like ?-1/4 the 
> price of the ?marine? brands that apparently works well when brushed on. I am 
> going to try it on a cockpit hatch and see how it goes. You did luck out with 
> the A4 ? there are always deals on parts for those for determined scroungers 
> and many of the diesels of that era have NO parts at all available anymore.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
> *if anyone wants to buy her for what I have in the boat I can run off 
> and buy a 43 LOL
> 
> From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 11:00 AM
> To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: RE: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
> 
> Thanks for the offer, Joe. You never know with these old A4s.
> 
> I?m sure you are right about the estimate but I have some wiggle room before 
> I get to the value of the boat. The PO was planning on salvaging the rig and 
> crushing the hull so you can imagine what I might have paid. The boat looked 
> tough but most of the issues (and there are a lot) are cosmetic.  After three 
> weeks we are ready to get her in the water and do some sailing before the 
> season is over. I have spent so far just over $1500 and a LOT of elbow 
> grease. My wife is a very good seamstress and she is willing to do the 
> cushions including adding some back rests. We already have the materials in 
> hand (Sunbrella). I am not using Awlgrip, just some decent deck and epoxy 
> paint. The hull is in good shape and I will not be completely stripping the 
> old paint. It is in good shape, just a little beat up and the wrong color. I 
> am keeping in mind that this is not ever going to be a show boat. Just making 
> it look good and feel good for two to spend a weekend on board. If sails come 
> into !
> the picture that number goes out the door. We will see where it all ends up 
> but I am confident at this point that my efforts on this boat will (for the 
> first time in my life) probably come back to me when I sell her for a bigger 
> boat (the real upgrade). My guess is that I could have at least tripled my 
> purchase price without doing anything but what fun is that?
> 
> Best
> Skip
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 10:31 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
> 
> You must be *extraordinarily* good at doing work on the cheap. My boat could 
> really use new sails, topside paint, and new cushions. The cost of that 
> exceeds the market value of the boat. I did rewire my boat and that cost a 
> good chunk of your proverbial $4K doing all the work myself. I have been 
> quoted around $10K to paint the boat and over $5K to do interior cushions. I 
> am not trying to be a Richard Cranium ? I love the fact an old C&C has found 
> a loving home ? but I don?t see the finances working the way you think. I 
> have seen again and again that once you start taking things apart you find 
> more and more things to work on. Good luck ? I am anxious to hear how you get 
> topsides and interior done so far under the going rate b

Re: Stus-List Dingy Repair

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

I have '94 Achilles that has spent June thru November on a mooring all it's 
life. One fall  after a month's absence I came to the boat and found that it 
had deflated and submerged the motor.   I resurrected the motor and got a quart 
of the latex sealer sold to stop pin hole leaks.  I added it to the 3 air 
compartments and then rolled the dingy all around the lawn to cover all the 
interior surfaces.  Pumped it up and left it in the barn all winter. It held 
air fine. Still does 2 yrs later.

Thanks,

Mike Fair

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian 
Morrison via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2014 1:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dingy Repair

Hello fellow CnCer's,

I have a mercury inflatable dingy. It has been a challenge ever since I 
purchased it. Dealing with keeping it clean, managing it at the marina (no 
dingy racks), repairs, etc. has not been fun. My current issue is a slow leak 
in the forward seam. I have read about a sealer that can be inserted through 
the air hole and is supposed to seal the seam from the inside. Several 
questions: has anyone had any experience with this repair, how do you get the 
sealant into the air hole (it seems to be too small to pour it in), do you have 
to remove the air intake valve, does it work, what is the best product and 
where can I get it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Brian

Brian C. Morrison
S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD


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Re: Stus-List Upsizing boats

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I spent a week in Baddeck, Nova Scotia sailing on our friends C&C99 
“Prospector”.  It has the cut out transom and in the past we have swam off it 
very easily.  I am 6’ 1” and I can stand anywhere in the boat.  On top of that 
is a very nice sailing boat.  If you want bigger the 115 is also great for 
standing headroom and cut out transom but is a whole lot more boat and more 
money.

 

Our current Frers 33 states 6’3” headroom but is more like 6’0” after the 
headliner.  I can stand and my head touches most places but is not 
uncomfortable.  Also has the reverse transom and the huge swim ladder to climb 
the transom.  Also we have the bridge deck with the silly location of a forward 
mounted traveler – not sure why anyone would want it anywhere but just forward 
of the Binnacle but there it lies.  Makes for the long climb down to the cabin. 
 Previous owner went to a Sabre 382 just to get the cut out transom and aft 
cabin.

 

There is a C&C99 in Ontario going for a ridiculous low price (around 55K).  Not 
sure what is wrong with it but suspect would want some love.  The 99 is a great 
boat.

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 2:25 PM
To: j...@svpaws.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Upsizing boats

 

I saw this boat on line and I love it...I would even keep the name!

 

I saw that it was in Ohio and stopped looking but, I may be changing my mind on 
that...

 

Here is a bigger boat that looks pretty sharp!

 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2003/C%26C-121-2738099/Salem/MA/United-States#.U_OGEPldXi0



-- Original Message --
From: John Pennie via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Upsizing boats
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 13:10:20 -0400

Or - For just a little more you can go with the next generation�

 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1999/C%26C-110-2733617/Vermilion/OH/United-States#.U_OEuUuRPwI

 

 

On Aug 19, 2014, at 1:02 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Okay, that is Beautiful!!

 

I wonder what it would take to get a boat from there to here?



-- Original Message --
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Upsizing boats
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 11:38:02 -0500

 

I second Pierre's suggestion  

That C&C 36XL in Toronto looks really good.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1996/C%26C-36XL-2527557/toronto/Canada#.U_NvE010zmE

As a current owner of a 34+ (Same boat, might have a slightly different 
rig)It seems it would fit the bill. 

Points like nobody's business, very comfortable:  we spend weekends and 
short vacations with the whole family (2 kids) and it's roomy enough, separate 
shower, etc. To paraphrase one of my dock buddies: He says you guys are staying 
at the Marriott, I'm at the Motel 6..

And fast as heck.  We hit 8.4 knots in 13-14 knots true last weekend 
again and it will pretty much match (True) wind speed on a reach on 3.5 knots 
or less wind.

We raced twice but the race was called both times because of weather.  
1) no wind 2) pretty bad thunderstorm.  We were top 3-4 on the 1st race (Our 
1st ever on our boat)  and we were leading the 2nd race by a good margin when 
we had to call it quits in the storm. 


Good Luck, 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia

   

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Stus-List Upsizing Boats - now cored hulls

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I am now on my second boat with a cored hull.  In both boats the hull
was dry.

 

When purchasing a boat with a cored hull it is extremely important to
have a good out of water survey done prior to purchase. The hull is
likely dry but if it had been involved in an incident of some sort it
could be wet in places and strength somewhat compromised.  However
typically with a cored hull boat the moisture is usually in the cored
deck and the hull is usually dry 

 

A couple of other interesting and somewhat related points:

 

1.  Everyone always seems to worry about cored hulls when looking at
boats.  I would be far more worried about things like encapsulated keels
than cored hulls.  C&C did not use that method as far as I know but
Aloha and some other Canadian builders did.  With an encapsulated keel
damage to the keel can lead to water intrusion into the keel and that is
very difficult to fix and can become very serious

2.  Wet decks.  On a cored hull boat the hull is likely dry for
several reasons (not many holes drilled in it and solid core usually in
those areas) but the deck will likely be cored and is in fact cored on
just about every C&C I know.  I would venture a guess that 90% of all
cored deck boats built prior to the 1990s have wet decks in at least
some areas.  The racier the boat design it seems the more fittings on
the deck and therefore more holes and more likelihood of wet decks, rot
and delamination.  This is easily fixed but a pain nonetheless.  Also it
should be noted that just because a deck does not feel soft in areas
that does not mean it is not wet in areas.

 

Well - there is my little mini rant or boring discussion or whatever for
the day.

 

Mike

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Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hope not.  I just spent a week racing on a 99 followed by a week racing on a 
115!

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 2:31 PM
To: Danny Haughey; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

 

Could there have been incidents with new ones.?  110,99,etc.



From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎20 1:23 PM
To: rickbr...@earthlink.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

Fk*n Wally...  That is hysterical!

-- Original Message --
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: Jack Fitzgerald , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 12:22:16 -0400

See the crap storm of comments that have been made in the last hour or so. 
Bottom line is she is full of it.

 

Rick

Sent from my iPad


On Aug 20, 2014, at 11:39, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List  
wrote:

I have heard via this site of many issues concerning our old boats, but 
so far not one report of a keel falling off either via gravity or grounding.

Did I miss something or is the woman writing this blog just full of 
crap?

 

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald

C&C 39 TM (1974)

 # 69)

HONEY

US12788

Savannah

 

 

On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Does anyone know if there is any base to the assertion the Ms. Gifford 
makes in her Sailing Totem  blog that “(C&C’s) keels are falling off!”

 

http://www.sailfeed.com/2014/08/theres-this-boat-mary-powell/

 

Assuming not, could someone remind her that baseless assertions, 
distributed by her through various channels (Sailfeed, email, f*book, etc.) is 
irresponsible and is the malady that leads to the unfortunate afflictions 
behind Rebel Heart slander and other unfortunate rumoring.

 

I would email, but I need to get back to work.  

 

Kevin

Portland

30-2


 

Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


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Re: Stus-List Stus-clevis pin

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

The Rigging loft or (RiggingOnly.com)  in Fairhaven, MA should be able to help. 
They are a very good rigging shop and have been around for a long time.

Thanks,

Mike Fair
413.587.6535

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 1:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-clevis pin

Bigger than 1/2 inch and smaller than 5/8... 9/16 inch?

http://www.amazon.com/CLEVIS-PIN-1-7-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000Y82RUY

Bill Bina
On 8/21/2014 1:47 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List wrote:

I have run into an unusual problem; I lost a clevis pin from the lower shroud, 
("someone" didn't spread the cotter pin apart enough), and the pin vibrated out 
under sail; (that was pretty scary!); I thought replacing the pin would be 
easy, but I can't seem to find the part anywhere; the boat is a 1985 37 with 
the original rod rigging, (Navtec I assume); measuring the pin from the other 
shroud I get metric measurements at 1 1/2 MM diameter and 4 MM long; I have 
contacted several sources; (Defender, Rig Rite, Hayn and Navtec); all of whom 
tell me it shouldn't be metric but should be imperial measurement; however I 
tried a 1/2 inch diameter pin in there and it is much too small, and 5/8s is 
too large...I need help; can anyone steer me toward a source for the pin?  (PS 
there are no marine riggers or facilities in our area, we don't even have a 
West Marine!);
Many thanks


Richard
1985 37, CB Ohio River Mile 584;


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255





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Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

And the funny part …..

 

We are supposed to be sailors not mechanics!

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 8:58 AM
To: Joel Aronson; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

 

Dave,

I had similar drama with my engine six years ago. It was made worse by a 
cantankerous starter.  I once had to have guests steer while I jumped below and 
shorted the starter solenoid contacts with a big screw driver to start it.   
(docking was similar to Jack Lemon in The Wackiest Ship In The Army)  I had the 
starter rebuilt.

 

I was able to adjust my engine's idle speed by adjusting the throttle stop at 
the engine.  I think it required two 9mm or 10mm wrenches.  No problems since.  
When docking, I set the throttle and use the shifter to put it in and out of 
gear.  I'm sure the idle is a little higher than spec, but now I feel less 
vibration and no stalling.  

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 



From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "David Knecht" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 

Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 3:54:45 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine stalling after shifting

 

Dave,

 

How low is the idle speed?

 

Joel

 

 

On Tue, Aug 12, 2014 at 3:49 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:



The Universal M4-30 in my boat tends to stall frequently when shifting.  This 
primarily happens when moving forward and shifting into reverse, which is of 
course not good for stress levels when one has to pull into a slip and you 
can’t count on slowing down.  Maybe I could increase the RPM somewhat before 
shifting, but that seems bad for the transmission so I haven’t done it.  Any 
ideas what this might indicate?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Wait a minute!  Your name is not Wally .

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 8:52 AM
To: John Pennie; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

 

Tequila makes my Keel fall off.

 

Tim 
 Toronto   

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 9:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A tribute to Doyle Sail Loft

 

Yes, I've had good experience with Doyle here on Long Island as well.

 

Just be warned - I hear Doyle sails will make your keel fall off,

 

Everyone's thinking it- I'm just saying...

 

John

 

On Aug 21, 2014, at 6:30 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I'm sure many of you know this but what a great company! I left a simple 
question about determining the fabric of my Doyle sails so I could figure out 
what to use to clean the mildew stains on their "info" email address. I heard 
back from Janet Doyle (my assumption is an owner or executive at least) who 
referred me to the guy that runs the sail loft (Bill) who called me and offered 
to have me bring my sails down so he could look at them and let me know what, 
if any options I had to clean them. These are old Kevlar racing sails that have 
probably begun delaminating but he said we may be able to get them looking a 
little better. Frankly the mildew stains are not that bad. I was just hoping 
for an easy solution to having at least clean sails.

 

I am impressed at the level of service they offer and it is obvious they know 
their stuff. It is also helpful that they are 30 minutes from my marina.

 

My 2 cents

 

Skip

 

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This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l'avis publié à 
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Re: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rich Knowles will likely chime in on this one.  A fellow named Phil Walsh in 
Halifax (J120 Philharmonic – beautiful boat) I believe has made these in the 
past.  I have heard they work well and is a cheaper way to go ….

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers33 (Yeah – I know)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Top rudder bushing

 

There was a recent discussion about making a new delrin bushing/washer.  I just 
saw these.  Has anyone tried one?  Any reason to spend the extra $$?

 

http://www.pyiinc.com/jefa-rudder/washers.html

 

 

-- 
Joel 

35/3

Annapolis
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List CNC 115 Shorthanded Sailers

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Josh

 

What is the cockpit layout of the 37+ in terms of winch placement,
traveler, main controls, etc?

 

I am curious because having just gone from a Tiller boat with mid
cockpit traveler (toward aft of cockpit) and traveler and backstay and
sheet all at traveler with jib sheets/primaries at forward end of
cockpit I am finding the cruising boat layouts very awkward.  With the
tiller near the traveler the driver could also do main trim when sailing
short handed and at very least has the main trimmer immediately beside
for communication.  Even on the C&C 99 and 115 the traveler is just
forward of wheel which gives driver some access to main and very good
communication with main trimmer.  On our new cruising boat the traveler
is on a bridge deck at companion way which places the main trimmer
forward of the jib trimmer and makes short handed sailing and
controlling the main much more awkward.  I still cannot fathom why
anyone would intentionally have a traveler forward 

 

So when sailing single handed with a wheel and a forward traveler how on
earth can you tack a boat single handed?  With two people I could see
it, sort of.  With one it seems that it would take 5 minutes to get the
boat tacked and trimmed.

 

Mike

Frers 33 Persistence

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 12:17 AM
To: drobert...@comcast.net; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNC 115 Shorthanded Sailers

 

I do not have particular expierience with "light air" boats but would
have generally said that the 37+ was one.  A rule of thumb I use is that
boat speed should be about half of apparent wind speed while
closehulled, up to 14 knots.  Above that we should start working to
flatten the boat but can wait till 18-20.

My wife and I regularly sail with just the two of us.  I could single
hand the boat by using the auto pilot.  In that case the hardest part is
getting the main up because you have to stay into the wind for so long.
I do regularly use auto to help tack by myself while she is relaxing or
cooking.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Pictures?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 9:45 PM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch?

 

I was able to get my broken key out with the broken piece and a  little bit of 
superglue.

I did not want this to happen again, so I cut most of the spare key off, 
drilled a little hole through it and put a small ring  through it. Now, nothing 
sticks out, I just pull the ring up to rotate it.

 

Bill

 Original message 

From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 

Date:08/25/2014 6:49 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch? 

 

Yesterday, it was pretty sporty on the lake with winds in the upper teens, my 
son was rushing from the deck to the cockpit and kicked the engine start key /  
broke it  as he stepped over to come and take the wheel for a while..  I could 
not find my spare key so I had to stick the broken half  back into the slot to 
get the engine re-started.  

Back at the marina in the evening, I tried to remove the broken piece by prying 
 / pulling  it out with a variety of small screwdrivers, drill bits. and other 
implements nothing was working and it was getting late so I decided to take the 
switch off to bring home and figure it out later.  

That's when I found out  that I was very thankful for thoughtful Yanmar 
engineers: There is a slot in the barrel directly over the key's teeth.  All 
you need to do is stick a small screwdriver in the slot and push the offending 
broken piece out.. 

Brillant!  

Outside of that it was a phenomenal day on the lake.  Probably the best sail 
this year so far.. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia


 

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Re: Stus-List CNC 115 Shorthanded Sailers

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

115 is sticky in light air.  Better than a lot of boats but many in similar 
handicap range are light air specialists.  The 115 really likes 18 apparent up 
wind and minimum 11 crew.  15-20 with 14 aboard the boat is a killer upwind

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ebay via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 6:17 PM
To: David Roberts; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNC 115 Shorthanded Sailers

 

Can't help on the 115 but our 121 is great in light air.  Flat water and 10 
knots appar = 7+ knots of boat speed on most points.  I would expect the 115 to 
be at least as good.  Polars for the 121 are on my site under resources.

 

John



Sent from my iPad


On Aug 25, 2014, at 4:55 PM, David Roberts via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hey folks, 

 

Are there any C&C 115 owners out there who cruise shorthanded? We have 
a crew on race night but we like to cruise our boats as well. We are currently 
racing our Catalina 30. We do pretty well until the wind drop down to 4, 5, 6 
knots. So I am also wondering how the 115 does in light air. We do beer can and 
a few port to port races on Lake Michigan. On port to ports our crew will catch 
a ride home, then my wife and I  will continue on cruising for a week or so. We 
were considering a 37+ last year and that still not out of the question, I am 
told it too is not a light air boat. You can get everything, I love the 
interior design of the 37+ and I understand it does well in 10 and above.

 

 

 

David Roberts

 

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Re: Stus-List CNC 115 Shorthanded Sailers

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

and 
tied to a backstay.

 

If you are cruising instead of racing, you will seldom be trying for the last 
tenth of a knot of speed or the last degree or two of pointing. Your 
destination isn't an upwind mark, its a marina or quiet anchorage somewhere 
ahead. You will be on a reach far more often than a beat - and probably on a 
close reach in all but a very few occasions when going upwind. And if you are 
like me, your 155 will be rolled in to 140 or 125 - maybe even 110 at times - 
for comfort and ease of tacking/trimming.

 

As an example, my girlfriend and I took a trip to a nearby town for dinner last 
weekend. About 27Nm one way or about 6 hours sail. On the way there we were on 
port tack all the way, and the only trimming was when we turned left to go 9 
miles up the Pungo River when we changed from a broad reach to a close reach.

 

Imzadi will go to weather at 28 or 29 apparent with a little coaxing and close 
attention. But, as Dwight pointed out, she is more stable, more comfortable, 
and more forgiving when footed off to 32 or so. And she feels faster even if 
the VMG to windward isn't quite as high.

 

While ghosting along at 1 or 2 knots can be a real peaceful pleasure, if you 
have miles to go before you sleep, or friends waiting to share sundowners, or 
want to get into the anchorage before dark - or before all the good spots are 
taken - you will probably be motoring or motor sailing instead of ghosting 
along. Such is the norm when cruising.

 

You commented that you can't imagine why anyone would have a forward traveler. 
Actually, that is my preference. 

 

A traveler by the pedestal is great for short handed racing. But it in 
invariably a pain in the knee for crew and limits access to the good seats for 
guests. Trimming is an unnecessary distraction for the helmsman if fully 
crewed. And you lose valuable entertaining space when cruising.

 

A cabin top traveler has relatively limited range of travel and the inherent 
problems of mid boom sheeting. If you have a dodger (and what cruiser does 
not?) visibility of the traveler is limited from aft in the cockpit. And if you 
have a guest or your Admiral lounging in the cockpit, you will invariably 
irritate her/them by whacking her in the head when you try to trim from the 
helm.

 

Imzadi has the primary winches just forward of the helm, in easy reach. If I 
ever get around to installing self-tailers, trimming will be quick and easy - 
and less acrobatic. My bridge deck traveler is out of the way of seating 
(though it does make sleeping in the cockpit more difficult), and I had Guido 
at Garhauer make custom brackets 
for the turning blocks and cam cleats so I can trim from behind the wheel. (He 
did them at no charge. Don't you just love stuff from Garhauer?)

 

When I make my first tack and have the headsail trimmed, I ease the  windward 
line to let the traveler car down as much as it was below center on the 
previous tack, without tightening the leeward line. Then lock it in and pretty 
much forget it. The traveler then becomes self tacking, with sheet and vang to 
control shape and the car to control angle of attack.

 

When I raced with regular crew, the location of the main trimmer only 4 or 5 
feet ahead of me was no problem for communication. Heck, he was near 80 and 
pretty deaf, and I was in the process of losing my hearing too. Plus the fact 
that he was out of the way of the guys I had in the cockpit to trim and tail 
the big headsail.

 

So I'm pretty happy with my bridge deck traveler.  But then I' essentially a 
cruiser who spends 80% of my time single handing.

 

Rick Brass

 

Sent from my iPad


On Aug 26, 2014, at 8:26, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Josh

 

What is the cockpit layout of the 37+ in terms of winch placement, 
traveler, main controls, etc?

 

I am curious because having just gone from a Tiller boat with mid 
cockpit traveler (toward aft of cockpit) and traveler and backstay and sheet 
all at traveler with jib sheets/primaries at forward end of cockpit I am 
finding the cruising boat layouts very awkward.  With the tiller near the 
traveler the driver could also do main trim when sailing short handed and at 
very least has the main trimmer immediately beside for communication.  Even on 
the C&C 99 and 115 the traveler is just forward of wheel which gives driver 
some access to main and very good communication with main trimmer.  On our new 
cruising boat the traveler is on a bridge deck at companion way which places 
the main trimmer forward of the jib trimmer and makes short handed sailing and 
controlling the main much more awkward.  I still cannot fathom why anyone would 
intentionally have a traveler forward 

 

So when sailing single handed with a wheel and a forward traveler how 
on earth can you tack a boat single handed?  With two people I could see it, 
sort of.  With on

Stus-List dummy move and followup question

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Our new to us boat came with a Furuno GP31 GPS and external antenna with
the GPS mounted in Nav Station.  Helm had a much newer Garmin 740.  We
decided to replace Furuno with a new Raymarine MFD chartplotter at Nav
Station.  The antenna was still in place.

I had posted the Furuno on Kijiji and have an interested buyer.
Unfortunately now that we have a liveable interior we also have
headliners etc which are one of the biggest curses on a sailboat.  While
attempting to remove the Antenna I had the cable removed for about half
its length after removing way to many access panels but it was stuck
somewhere in the nether reaches of the boat.  One slightly too
aggressive tug and I now have an antenna with two pieces of cable (much
easier to remove by the way).

So I have been reading about splicing GPS antenna cables.  This one is
Coax style and there has been a lot of information that BNC ends and a
barrel connector will work.  Does anyone (especially Fred) have
experience and advice on this?  I think I may have just reduced my
selling price to zero and may be making a gift of the unit to the
potential buyer

Mike

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 4JH-TE Repower on C&C 44

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Similar problem over weekend.  Engine alarm and then shut off.
Apaprently engine restarted ok but no more fwsd or reverse.  Then the
line that had fallen over the side was noticed with one end attached to
boat and other wrapped firmly around shaft.  Shaft seems pulled back
approx. one inch.  Transmission seems to be spinning but not shaft.
Hope to find out today if simple fix or a time consuming expensive one.
Was a lot of pressure on boat end of line so worried also about shaft
and strut.  Hauling boat to repair.  3GM30

 

Mike

Persistence

Frers 33

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2014 10:17 AM
To: jonbooc...@gmail.com
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 4JH-TE Repower on C&C 44

 

Jon,

 

This might sound to easy, but could you have wrapped something around
the prop shaft? 

 

I had a similar sounding experience when a piece of heavy line wrapped
around the shaft. Had to clear it with a dive knife (took about 2 hours,
working with a flashlight) then restarted the engine and all was fine. I
was bringing the boat up from Florida, and it happened in southern N.C.,
so I ran it for many hours after without any issues.

 

Bill

 

MYSTY

 

In a message dated 9/8/2014 9:11:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jonbooc...@gmail.com writes:

loud screeching noise for 1/2 second, followed by a big bang and
shudder and engine stopped 

seems to be seized hard

could be transmission let go and then something jammed and
instantly stopped the engine, going about 2800 rpm

 

 

On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 9:08 AM,  wrote:

Jon,

 

What went bang? Have you any idea of what failed?

 

Bill

 

MYSTY 

Landfall 39 (also has a 4JH-TE)

Virginia

 

In a message dated 9/8/2014 9:04:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

The Yanmar 4JH-TE on our C&C 44 went bang on the
weekend. It was the last thing on the boat that hadn't been replaced so
in some ways it is a relief to replace it. It is unclear whether we will
go new or remanufactured at this point. 

I have been appalled in the past at Canadian pricing on
Yanmar parts and I suspect complete engines would be the same.
Nonetheless I will probably get a quote from a Canadian dealer.

Who in the US would be recommended to get a quote from?
We were happy with Bay Shore Marine on our way through Annapolis, does
anyone have experience buying a complete engine from them?

Is there compatibility with engine mounts , exhaust etc
between the various Yanmar models?

(4JH, 4JH2, 4JH3, 4JH4, 4JH5)

If so this could open up the number of potential
replacements.

For remanufactured Schooner Bay Imports (Al Holzer) in
WI seems to be highly recommended.

Our current model is 56 hp but I think anything above 46
hp would be sufficient so the non turbocharged versions would work fine
and of course the more recent non turbo versions have the same or higher
horsepower.

Any guidance on who to contact based on your experience
would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jon

 

C&C 44 - (right now a big, heavy dinghy)

Mor' Childs Play 

Kingston ON

 



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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 4JH-TE Repower on C&C 44

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Jonathan

 

How does the remanufactured engine compare in pricing to the new models?

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan 
Boocock via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 9:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 4JH-TE Repower on C&C 44

 

Thanks for all the input. I will summarize what I have found so far about 
engine replacements.

Much to my surprise pricing for new Yanmar engines with similar hp (55 hp) to 
the old engine pricing is better in Canada compared to the US.

With "boat show" pricing I have been quoted $14,900 US (list $18320) for a 
4JH5E or 4JH57. Of course with Yanmar products they can't be shipped to other 
regions so I would have to pick it up in the US and pay state tax, followed by 
Canadian tax when it is brought into Canada. (total about 20% :(   )

Canadian pricing is approx $14900 CAN, roughly 10% less given the exchange rate 
and I wouldn't incur the US state tax.

 

As many recommend Beta as an alternative to Yanmar I started looking at them as 
well. The 50 hp option is about $14,000 CAN before any options (higher output 
alternator, longer wiring harness etc) and this is before adding any of the 
items required to change engine mounts, exhaust etc. I don't see the 
significant savings I was expecting based on others experience.It sounds like 
maintainability (parts, access) are better than Yanmar so savings aren't only $.

 

I am likely going to put in a remanufactured Yanmar  4JH3 which I have been 
told should be a drop in fully replacement  with the same hp as my turbocharged 
older model. It sounds like Schooner Bay have an excellent reputation 
delivering fully remanufactured engines for less than half the price of a new 
engine.

 

Thanks for everyones input. I will update the list as my project proceeds.

Jon

 

C&C 44

Mor' Childs Play 

Kingston ON

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Re: Stus-List CNG for stove

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I have cng. Safer but harder to source.  also less heat

Mike
Persistence




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Gary Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Fri 12/09/2014 4:56 PM
To: Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG for stove
 
There are some boat yards which trade tanks, you give the old, they give the 
new - for a fee. Ours does just that.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
  To: Richard N. Bush ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 12:02 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG for stove


  Converting your stove from CNG to propane is simply a matter of changing the 
orfices in the burners. My new Frigidaire gas stove (in the home) actually came 
with a set of each. The CNG jets were factory installed and the LPG  in a 
package attached to the installation instructions. The delivery people 
installed the LPG jets when they installed the stove. Talk to an appliance 
vendor.


  I don't think I've ever heard of a CNG stove in an RV, so the lack of 
information is not surprising.


  Your tank and regulator should have manufacturer labels on them. See if the 
manufacturer can identify the local installer for you.


  The CNG system is another matter. CNG is methane gas and lighter than air so 
no need for a vented locker, sensors, etc. The tank is at much higher pressures 
in order to store a useful amount of gas (systems on forklift trucks can be up 
to 3000 psi) and you still store a lot less fuel than in a similar size LPG 
tank. There is probably an expensive two stage regulator to bring the gas 
pressure down to 2-3psi. And it is hard to find anyone to fill your tank. You 
might ask your municipal gas company or the local bus company if they can 
either fill the tank or identify someone who can.


  The benefits to CNG are that it is safer than LPG, it burns hotter so cooks 
faster, and it is ridiculously inexpensive (which is why most new buses run on 
it).


  Rick Brass

  Sent from my iPad

  On Sep 11, 2014, at 15:59, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


Does anyone on the list use CNG for their stove?  If so, could you tell me 
about how it works, suppliers, and pitfalls? My boat came with a CNG stove and 
full tank of CNG; the system seems to be in good condition, but I'm too 
intimidated by it to try it before having someone check it out;  but there is 
no one in our area, (meaning RV dealers) who has any knowledge of how it works 
or useful information; I have looked into converting the stove to propane, 
which means purchasing a new stove and full propane system, $$$; many thanks 
for any info or help;  

Richard
1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
> CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast 
> left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not 
> encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

> cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under 
> warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a "gin pole"(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?

Advice appreciated,
Mark


-- 


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   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

This is a long time debate.  Which damages boat / mast more?  Removal and 
reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or leaving it up?  I know that one 
season on our J27 we left the mast up.  That Spring while working on the boat 
the entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit.  I attribute 
this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as anything.

 

The big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a boat on jack 
stands.  The extra windage of the mast further compromises the integrity of 
jack stands.  One local club (Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast to 
be left up on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle.  Another way to 
look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast must come down.

 

I realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow jackstands.  I 
believe this is due to yard space and not due to a jackstand being more secure 
than a cradle.  

 

So here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down question.  At the very 
least mast down does give you a good opportunity to inspect the standing 
rigging and the mast

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM
To: Ron Casciato; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat unless they are being worked on.

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List 
 wrote:

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay "a little" not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
C&C 38MKIIC.'77


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
> CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast
> left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not
> encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

> cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under
> warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a "gin pole"(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?

Advice appreciated,
Mark


--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Danny

Do you know of an available Viking 33 mast?

Mike



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 22/09/2014 4:48 PM
To: rjcasci...@comcast.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
 
The yard where I keep my boat requires the mast to come down for winter storage 
on the hard.  I feel it gives me the opportunity to have a look at everything 
every year.  It also makes covering her up a lot easier... DannyLolita1973 
Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Ron Casciato via CnC-List 
To: "'Hoyt, Mike'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 15:41:35 -0400


 
 
Mike:
 
I agree that we haven’t talked about this one for some 
time..in my case (mast up)…….the 
cost to take it down and put it back up is 
prohibitive……….more than $500 which is not part of the 
storage agreementnot doing that every year.
 
Ron C.
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:32 PM
 To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
 
This is a long time debate.  Which damages boat / mast more?  Removal and 
reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or leaving it up?  I know that one 
season on our J27 we left the mast up.  That Spring while working on the boat 
the entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit.  I attribute 
this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as anything.
 
The big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a boat on jack 
stands.  The extra windage of the mast further compromises the integrity of 
jack stands.  One local club (Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast to 
be left up on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle.  Another way to 
look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast must come down.
 
I realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow jackstands.  I 
believe this is due to yard space and not due to a jackstand being more secure 
than a cradle.  
 
So here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down question.  At the very 
least mast down does give you a good opportunity to inspect the standing 
rigging and the mast
 
Mike
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM
 To: Ron Casciato; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
 
Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat unless they are being worked on.
 
Joel
 
On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List 
 wrote:
In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
 winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
 well
 
 In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
 wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval
 
 It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
 and backstay "a little" not flopping around
 
 Ron C.
 Impromptu
 C&C 38MKIIC.'77

 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
 Mike via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
 To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
 
 Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
 around here do not permit it
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
 Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
 
 
 All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
 merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
 In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
 > CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast
 > left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not
 > encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its
 
 > cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under
 > warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.
 
 I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
 Our club has a crane and a "gin pole"(?) that could be used to pull the
 mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
 I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
 little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
 I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
 yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
 the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
 crew for me)
 
 Having just bou

Re: Stus-List Mast Crane Replacement ideas, Pictures and comments Requested

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Why not pull the masts with the boat in the water?  Crane does not have to be 
as high nor does the lift

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of D Harben via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 8:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast Crane Replacement ideas,Pictures and comments Requested

 

Hi,

   While we are chatting about annual mast pulling our club Is looking at a 
replacement for our mast crane.  

 

We are looking for a design example/picture that is about 15' higher then most. 
We haul out boats out on a marine railing with our cradle on it. The masts are 
pulled on dry land while the boat is on the railway. 

 

Descriptions, observations and pictures are appreciated!

 

Don Harben

sailadventures at gmail

 

www.ncyc.ca

 

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Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Chuck

 

You are lucky that your wife likes being aboard the boat.  Sounds like you have 
a good system worked out

 

Mike

Persistence

(as usual not a C&C)

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 11:44 PM
To: Us; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  All good, but not for my girl.  

Hiring a coach or taking a course won't change the fact that she doesn't like 
that sailboats lean when powered up.  She's just not interested in a sailing 
course or coaching or changing.  We're 60 and been together 30+ years.  We've 
had this boat for 12 years and she likes harbor cruises under power or 
anchoring overnight, or all the social stuff at the dock or rafting up.  My 
daughter is the same.  My son however is like me and took to sailing right off. 
 He joined his college's sailing team and loves racing with me.  I've raced the 
boat without my wife or daughter and won regattas with 1st time ever crew, so I 
assure you I am fairly competent.  I can calmly explain which line to put to 
what winch and which way to turn it and never raise my voice except to be 
heard.  I've put newbies on the wheel and coached them to steer and they loved 
steering.  I've also taken guests who just wanted a ride, didn't want to do 
anything and I just set the autohelm and do it all like I do when I'm alone.  
My wife likes that style until it gets above 10 knots when the boat comes alive 
and we start making 6 plus knots and heel to 25 degrees cause the apparent 
becomes 16 and then we're doing 7.3 knots and lovin it, until she's almost 
crying something like, "do you have to make it lean so much?  Let's find a 
place to go swimming."

 

She's missing the sailing gene, but I can't change her and she has no desire to 
take a course or let me hire a coach.  I guess I'll run our boat like a trawler 
when she's aboard, and save the sailing for when she's not there.   I'm gonna 
order that tow toy.

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 



From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "Gary Nylander" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 

Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 7:44:09 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

 

Ok, here's a response from a woman.

 

I married into sailing. Started with a small boat, took trips to New England 
and the Caribbean on  charters in significantly larger boats (where my love for 
C&C began). I learned to love the lifestyle and a bit of racing but what really 
shifted my thinking was crewing on someone else's boat. 

 

Consider this, expectations are high and so is pressure when sailing with a 
spouse. When sailing on another accomplished skippers boat as added crew, you 
see how the experienced crew handles everything and before you know it you 
relax,  a few years have passed, and your right there with them, loving every 
second.

 

I wouldn't expect every wife to catch the bug I did, but they might certainly 
see sailing from a different perspective and enjoy it more with a higher level 
of confidence.

 

I know on Lake Lanier and other bodies of water there are some very patient and 
good skippers that would welcome a learning spouse. I'd be happy to help as 
well...

 

Joanne Mocny

S/V Obsession

C&C 37/40+


Sent from my iPad


On Sep 23, 2014, at 4:59 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Try Womanship - they have a school in Annapolis, but hold classes in 
the Caribbean.

 

A friend went - loved it.

 

Gary

- Original Message -

From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  

To: Dennis C.   ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard  

Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:46 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

 

Dennis / others,

 

Do you have any recommendations for such a course, preferably 
somewhere warm and with some considerable learning opportunities (moving from 
very competent crew to command / self-sufficiency, not basics)?  Bev / other 
female listers, I'd be interested in your opinions too.

 

Thanks,

 

Tim


On Sep 22, 2014, at 5:31 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

 

Don't just send your lady to sailing lessons.  Send her 
to a week long ladies only sailing class.  It's a LOT different than taking 
lessons with a coed group.  She will not just get sailing lessons, she will get 
emotional support, counselling, share experiences with other women, etc.  

Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

They changed to frameless in 1979 on the 30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 5:09 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

 

The earliest ones did, but they changed to the glued ones sometime in
the late '70's.

Gary

- Original Message - 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 3:54 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

 

Doesn't the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK
I has?

Those are pretty easy to DIY.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Of Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

 


I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are
cracked and need replacement.
I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read
multiple different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a
grain (or bag) of salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from
experience.

I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that
the acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or
does not match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer
of adhesive - which could not absorb the movement.
The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep
the acrylic a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the
adhesive caulk in around the edges for the water proofing.  With more
thickness there is more ability to absorb the different motions.  

Mark




 
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the
outside edge of the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one
once, moderately, with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat
damage, but scarily easy 

 

Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice
new ports except for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404
bronze 3/8", but then this year the large window started leaking again.
Broken-hearted would cover it.

 

One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat
with Lewmar ports.

 

Nate

"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1

Siskiwit Bay Marina

Lake Superior

 

 

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via
CnC-List  wrote:

Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones
out. They are glued in with some powerful stuff and you stand a good
chance of chipping the gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I
know). You may want to try a dremel or one of those vibrating side
cutters (Fein tool?).

 

Then you have to clean up the area where the
adhesive was - it was probably laid on pretty thick and is another
dremel job - again - care.

 

Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus,
which is a two part glue and needs a special gun for application. The
windows are bonded into the side of the cabin and are part of the
structure. You have to hold them in place (they are slightly bent to
match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 295, which
requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't get
creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about
folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right
the next year.

 

Search through the archives on the site - most
of the late '70's and later original C&C's had glued in windows and
there are a lot of threads on this repair. It is doable but not trivial.
Jake had a pretty good description if I remember correctly.

 

Gary Nylander

(Been there with moderate success)

 

- Original Message - 

From: Curtis via CnC-List
  

To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 

Sent: T

Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bill

 

Sure gets dark quickly where you are and you guys must down a lot of Red Bull!

 

Spar crane setup looks pretty much the same as ours

 

 

One additional comment.  I used to store my mast outside on sawhorses in my 
back yard with spreaders attached.  Water can get in to tuff luff, roller 
furling track, spreaders, etc ... Last few years I left it atop my boat in my 
yard with the spreaders removed and inside the boat and then I wrapped my 
entire mast in plastic to prevent water intrusion and subsequent freezing (was 
getting paranoid about my Tuff Luff I guess).  With the new boat there is a 
spar shed where the masts are stored inside.  Much nicer

 

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 11:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Well, here I am pulling my mast in 2 ½ Minutes, mostly in the dark, with my 
spindly girlfriend doing most of the cranking. (uphill, both ways!)

And I was poorly prepared last year! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpz1hAODZAY

 

And Homey ain't  painting your bottom OR doing your engine!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:32 AM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Also, if someone could get my mast off in 15 minutes I would expect they could 
do my bottom paint and zincs in 10 minutes and replace my engine in 5 minutes.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:29 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Exactly my expierience Joe. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sep 24, 2014 8:40 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

This must be a regional thing. Mast pulling is fairly rare in Maryland. 
I am almost never hauled out during the winter, but the few times I have been 
the yard didn't even ask about the mast.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
and Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:50 PM
To: 'Ron Ricci'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Let's se

 

Mast up = HUGE increase in windage and pressure brought to bear on 
cradle or jack stand pads = increased issues of hull flexing / damage

Effective area of pad in contact with hull is about same as your hand 
clenched in a fist

Pads are located in area of cored hull

 

Yard has purpose built mobile crane for masts with extending boom etc.  
Takes about 15 minutes to pull

Yard staff is well seasoned and qualified

 

Get to thoroughly inspect mast, rigging, lights and instruments every 
year

 

Have stored with mast down for 30+ years - works for me

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT


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Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40 + Pricing (

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

David

 

A genniker is technically a spinnaker.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
Roberts via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37/40 + Pricing (

 

Thanks for all the GREAT input. This list is by far the best email list I have 
ever read. I look forward to being a real member by owning a C&C. Anyhow a few 
corrections to my post.

 

1.  The boat is owned by the dealer they took it on trade

2.  They did replace the floor boards, or at least refinish them. I know this 
because it is clear that the floor boards in the aft cabin are a much darker 
color so I inquired. That is when I found out about the water. And yes the boat 
was left uncovered with mast up for years. They just covered it for the first 
time last year. They dropped the mast, stored it, and shrink wrapped the boat.

3.  We are not up 18’ on Lake Michigan but 18” still enough for this boat to 
get into most harbors but not all. Just last year it would have been a problem. 
I am hopping we are starting our tread up. I don’t want to be calling Mars to 
reduce the keel in a few years. That is a $20k job. 

 

I just yesterday spoke with the last owner on the phone. A friend of mine knows 
him and put us in touch. I am going to meet him this weekend because he is 
crewing on a boat that is doing a port to port this weekend and we are doing 
that race as well. NICE guy on the phone. And yes they were not serious racers. 
He did say that if I were going to race the boat I would need a new main. One 
of the #2’s was near new. A new main for my C30 is $1,500 on the low end, about 
the same for the #3. I know this because I just bought new sail last year. 

 

Jake: $45k to $55k is exactly what I was thinking. 

A friend of mine is close friends with a broker and he had him check on boats 
sold in the past 3 years.  The closest one to a 1989 std. rig was a 1991 std. 
rig wing. It looked like it was in nice condition and it sold for $60K. That 
was two years ago. Not one on Lake Michigan. There were more expensive boats 
but they were really nice, new interior, new sail, new paint jobs, i.e. like 
new. My wife would be more interested in a wing, I like the fin for 
performance, I am concerned if the lake levels head south. 

 

Chuck: A roller furling genneker is a great idea for light air. I wonder if I 
can get away with that in the JAM fleet. I am almost certain that our 1st place 
JAM boat was flying very light large head sail that he ran up the luff track. 
It was like 3 or 4 knots and we were barley moving and he was just pulling 
away. 

 

Thanks so much for your help.

 

David Roberts

ddr1...@gmail.com

 

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Stus-List mast

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

A friend with a Viking 33 broke his spar and is looking for a
replacement.  The cross section dimensions are the same as 35-1. Does
anyone on this list know of a 35-1 mast (or better yet Viking 33/34
mast) that is available?  Holland Marine has one that is brand new and
great price but is too short as this boat is keel stepped.
 
Mike

 

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Re: Stus-List Delrin top rudder bushing

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Wally 

No one is ever done drilling holes in a boat.  Is one of the most satisfying 
pleasures of boat ownership

Mike 
Not a c&c
Halifax 




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Wally Bryant via CnC-List
Sent: Tue 30/09/2014 8:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Delrin top rudder bushing
 
Joel wrote:
> I ordered a new bushing from Annapolis Plastics. Not cheap ($$88) but I
> don't have the hole saws to do it myself.   If you are replacing yours you
> might consider using them.

True.  When I did it, I had an enormous collection of hole saws on 
hand.  It depends on the job, and how many other jobs you're going to do 
in the future.

I actually brought my entire collection of hole saws with me when I took 
off cruising.  Even nested, they filled an entire plastic tub and 
weighed about 15 pounds.  I thought I would be able to help other 
cruisers and get karma points.  But every time someone called out on the 
radio for a hole saw it was clear to me that the person hadn't been 
thinking ahead, or the person wanted a standard small size, or 
whatever.  And the hole saw bin was buried deep (because I'm done 
drilling holes in this boat) and pulling them out would involve making a 
big mess, and I was hung over or it was too hot or both.  So about two 
years ago I went on a rampage to get an inch of waterline back, and the 
hole saws were given away. I kept a few, but gave most to an SS welder 
in La Paz who I've known for 9 years.  Got some karma points, as he's 
done some SS work for me for free.

But if you can't afford hole saws, get a bench belt sander. 

Wal



-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Costco cheapest in my experience.  Of course there is a difference between a vw 
fix in Montreal and a 38 Ft boat offshore. I think offshore I would be more 
inclined to go with a well trusted brand

Mike 
Not a c&c




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tue 30/09/2014 9:09 PM
To: w...@wbryant.com; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries
 
I might still consider it if they were considerably cheaper and where the
heaviest.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 30, 2014 8:04 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> And I don't want to sound cynical, but WalMart doesn't manufacture
> anything.  With the purchasing power that they have, they can dictate terms
> to any supplier.  And they do.  The battery that you get from WalMart or
> Sam's Club this year can be entirely different from the battery you'll get
> next year. It might look the same and have the same label...
>
> Wal
>
> you wrote:
>
>> Consumer Reports rated the Walmart batteries very highly.
>>
>
>
> --
> s/v Stella Blue
> www.wbryant.com
>
>
> ___
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>
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> page at:
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>
>

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Re: Stus-List CP180 GPS

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Joe

 

Where are you located?  Our CP180 went with our boat when it was sold
but I have the C-MAP chip from May 2013.  Was $250 at the time but
prices are now half that.  This is M-NA-M026.24.  Great Lakes, North
East Coast & Appr.  When we picked up current boat from New Bedford,
Mass we took a spare CP190 and used this chip.  $50 is all I need for
it.

 

On the J-27 we placed the unit on the bulkhead.  Of course with a tiller
it was either that or on an arm swinging out from inside the boat.  What
I particularly like about the CP180 series is that under the NMEA
display screen you can configure it to show datums without the chart.
We would have it set up with BRG, COG, SOG, DST, VMP and Time to Go.  Go
to chart screen, pick your destination to set as GO TO and then back to
NMEA screen.  Very large and readable.  Have not been able to get that
on either the Garmin GPSMAP 740 or the Raymarine A65 that we now have.  

 

Note that the J/27 is a race boat and has no dodger.  The unit was
permanently mounted on the bulkhead with no protection other than the
cover (replacement cove is $40 BTW) since beginning of 2009 season up
until we sold the boat end of June this year.  There were no issues.  In
winter I take it inside and cover the hole with Starbord or similar

 

Email me off list if interested in the chip.  I also have the chip for
the Northumberland Strait

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 12:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CP180 GPS

 

I just got a Standard-Horizon CP180 GPS/chartplotter/fishfinder/radar
from Fleabay for a good price. This is a 5 inch screen unit that is
about 8"x5". I am in a bit of a quandary on where to mount it. On the
bulkhead at the forward end of the cockpit will make wiring easier and
be fairly protected from the weather. I usually am in the forward
cockpit underway with the autopilot remote. For tricky situations where
I am at the helm I would love it to be mounted on the binnacle, but I am
not sure if I like the idea of it being so exposed. Has anyone tried
putting a navpod on a MK I? Does the MK I binnacle guard have the
standard 12" spacing or something else?

I already have a PC plotter setup that I like, but that draws about 36
watts. This unit should be more like 6 watts and can support a radar if
I want to add the antenna. If I cable it right I can send waypoints back
and forth from the PC to the plotter. Only downside so far is I need a
$170 chart chip for a $140 plotter to get any decent level of detail L 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List C & C 29 m2

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

MCS ships to Halifax regularly.  They also build CradleRide trailers.
Since they have the plans for C&C29-2 they could build your trailer.
Likely $5000

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Hickson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 2:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C & C 29 m2

Hi Keith,

I purchased a 29 mark 2 in 2012 and had a cradle made by Marine Cradle
Shop in Sutton (north of Toronto, ON).
Shipping would likely be too expensive to Calgary.
If you contact me off list, I can send photographs and dimensions.

I have a list of 29 owners and I will add you to the list if you want
...
send the Hull Identification number if you have it.
To the best of my knowledge 400 to 500 mark 2's were built in Niagara on
the Lake and Middleton

Fair Winds,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com

--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2014 07:51:17 -0700
From: David Donnelly 
To: Stu , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: 1983 C7C 29 MkII
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Keith. Where are you purchasing the boat? I got my boat in Manitoba 2
years ago and had a trailer made there. The company that built it,
Saturn Trailer, sent a guy who took measurements and placed the posts
right on the bulkheads and stiff areas. I was very happy. There were
alot of 29's there, they may already have built a trailer and could
build you one easily from existing plans. Let me know if you want any
contact information. I think the example of their work I saw was a 29
come to think of it.

David Donnelly
C&C 26 Mistress


Sent from Samsung Mobile

 Original message From: Stu via CnC-List
 Date:10-07-2014  6:34 AM  (GMT-07:00)
To: C&C Email List 
Subject:
Stus-List Fw: 1983 C7C 29 MkII  Hello,

I am about to purchase a 1985 C&C 29 MkII, and wish to obtain an
accurate longitudinal Cross-section drawing of this craft in order to
construct a trailer.

Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Keith Deller,
Calgary AB


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Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Nice product.  

 

I had purchased a Rule 1500 autiomatic bilge pump to replace the manual
PAR 36680-2000 on our boat that had no float switch.  Then I realized
the current pump has an extremely efficient pickup that takes almost all
of the water out of the bilge.  Will be returning the Rule and have
ordered the Water Witch 101 from their web site

 

Thanks for the heads up!

 

Mike

Persistence

Frers 33

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems

 

When I got the boat it had a Rule automatic pump that determined if
there was water by running on occasion and measuring if there is a
resistance to turn the impeller..  While it sounds smart in theory, in
practice the impeller gets gooked-up with normal bilge crap and gets
hard to turn whether the bilge is dry or not,  it was very inconsistent
and could potentially run indefinitely. 

I replaced the pump with the highest capacity pump that would fit in the
tiny sump area and went with the solid state Water Witch and a manual
Johnson pump.  

The Water Witch
(https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Pro
ducts/BilgeSwitches.html
 )  works flawlessly,(No float to jam,  it
measures electrical resistance between plates)  but the I have the same
spill back problem as I have a 14 - 15 or so feet run from the pump to
the stern discharge and the pump would not prime when I used the joker
valve that came with it.  Also, I did not really want to introduce the
one way valve as I have read too many horror stories about possible
obstructions keeping the pump from working correctly. 

So in the interest of time and other more pressing priorities.. I
decided to just live with a couple cups of water in the lower sump
(Mostly comes from the stuffing box dripping when we run the engine) ..
The way the boat is designed it's like a little bucket and it keeps the
rest of the bilge dry,  Since we use the boat regularly the water is not
too foul and there's no real issue with the smell.  

Eventually I'd like to add another pump, possibly this one:
http://www.drybilgesystem.com/ 
Another thing is to get a small wet / dry vac and just suck it after
using the boat which I'll probably get soon. 

The swtich is definitely a superior design. The pump seems to work well,
outside of a second pump I don't see away around the backwash if I'm not
willing to have some kind of one way valve.. 

Quite the conundrum this one. .

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia






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Stus-List Butyl

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it
from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been
using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid
and nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent
that rids us of that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Probably 202 would work.  Steering clear of butyl would also work

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Letsgo 
Sailing via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

 

My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that 
prevents proper sealing.  

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it 
from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using 
butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly 
impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of 
that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 





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Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Jim

 

In Halifax we are taking all that sailing crap off.  You know – stuff like 
sails, booms and masts.  Last race of season in Halifax Oct 25 and more than 
half the boats out now

 

Your problem sounds a lot nicer

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 1:07 PM
To: Joel Aronson; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

 

Rain rain rain rain rain rain rain.

That's our forecast for the next 7 days. We might get a bit of a break today so 
this may be the day I go out and take all the summer cruising gear off. 

While a little depressing, the good side of this is that the boat sails much 
better without all that crap on it. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 16 October 2014 07:48, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

Possible day sail Saturday, then frostbiting out of West River Sunday. 

 

Enjoy Charm City!

 

Joel

 

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Anyone headed out? It looks like we’ll have frontal passage here 
Saturday night, so the plan is to go to Baltimore and then sail home with 15 
knots on the stern Sunday. We were going to go to Saint Michaels, but the 
forecast is uphill both ways and I don’t trust Kent Narrows with a strong 
northerly.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551   


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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Sounds like a lot of work just to get access to it.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the
Dripless PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop
shaft so the bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have
never done this, and with the recent discussion about the set screws
holding the rotor in place on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth
it.  Would be interested in what other PYI users do.  I did replace the
entire unit last winter; at full engine RPM I had noticed water spraying
out between the rotor and the carbon flange, perhaps because the thrust
of the prop pushed the shaft forward until the rotor did not make good
contact with the flange.  When I unclamped the rotor and slid it forward
to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and there were some small pits in
the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI recommended replacing the entire
unit, which I did, and it has worked fine this summer.  But it had
worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, and looked like it
had been installed well before that, without doing anything to winterize
it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at the beginning of
each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Awesome weekend coming - cruise alert!

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence is sitting patiently at dock waiting for her last sail of
the season on Saturday.  Die Hard race out of AYC.  The final event in
the schedule

Mast coming down Monday

Has been a great season

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
OldSteveH via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Awesome weekend coming - cruise alert!

Sadly Diamond Girl is shorn of her mast and already on the hard.
Maybe I will go sit on the deck, look out over big beautiful Georgian
Bay and enjoy the fine weather this weekend with a beverage.

Happy sailing!

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON



--

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2014 18:28:35 -0500
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Stus-List Awesome weekend coming - cruise alert!
Message-ID:


Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Weather looks great for the Gulf Coast for the next 6-7 days.  Highs
near 80, lows under 60 and no chance of rain.

The Admiral and I are seizing the weather window and taking Touche' to
Pensacola for a few weeks.  We want to watch the Blue Angels Home Show
the weekend of Nov. 8.  We'll spend weekends there and bring it back to
Lake Pontchartrain after Thanksgiving.

Plan is to leave early Friday and get to Gulfport, MS (10 hours).  Then
depart early Saturday and get to The Wharf Marina on the ICW at Orange
Beach, AL (12 hours) in time to watch an evening football game.  On to
Pensacola for lunch Sunday (4 hours).  Winds look light so probably have
to motor but should be pleasant delivery anyway.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
-- next part --
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Re: Stus-List Valuing old Sails for Donation

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

You probably could not buy a pound of bacon for the money a 25 year old sail is 
worth ….

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 1:59 PM
To: Tim Sippel; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Valuing old Sails for Donation

 

Or Bacon?

 

On Thu, Oct 23, 2014 at 9:43 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Why not try a used sail dealer

http://www.secondwindsails.com/(first hit on google)see what they would 
sell a sail in similar size/condition and go from there ?



Tim
C&C 33Mkii

 Toronto



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Valuing old Sails for Donation

Listers,

I'm looking to donate some of my old sails to charity. Each one that I have 
contacted asks that I provide a written valuation for them which they will sign 
off on.

Does anyone know of a formula or other method for valuing used sails? I'm not 
looking to cheat the government (though don't get me started) or cause problems 
for a charity.

There has to be a way to come up with a fair value, no?

Appreciate any ideas or website links that could start the process.

Hailing frequencies open. On screen.

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
Sent from my iPad Air
iPad. iTypos. iApologize



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This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

What he said.

Did similar on our J27 to seasons ago and never saw a crack since on
keel/hull joint

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 10:26 AM
To: Dan Mccorison; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Bill Bina
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

Dan:

Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the C&C list. Just about
anything you need advice on, you can get it here.

In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods
to deal with the 'C&C smile'.  It is pretty much the way we dealt with
ours when we acquired our boat in 2006.  Nine (9) sailing seasons later,
and there is no evidence of the 'smile'.

Previously, we did the same thing when we acquired a Kirby 25 before the
C&C 32 and the 'smile' never reappeared.

Good luck with your boat.  By the way, where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/24 8:04 AM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List wrote:
> Thanks bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List
 wrote:
>>
>> I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed,
despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by
using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way
along the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.
>>
>> Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch
drive torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets
that I collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued
torque wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the
sockets and stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck
mechanics use this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools
besides Snap-On, which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep
sockets from NAPA autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good,
because those big deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized
bolts.
>>
>> Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in
un-thickened epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass.
Next step was to fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the
consistency of peanut butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to
clean an area all the way around extending about 10" above and 12" below
the joint, which I then "primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy.
Followed that with several layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly
thickened epoxy and wraped like a bandage extending about 10 inches
above and below the joint. Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of
interprotect 2000 to seal the surface. Reapplied the first coat of
micron extra before the final coat of interprotect cured. Previously I
had tried sealing the joint with various fillers including 5200, 4200,
Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got to try many fillers
because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of a single season.
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>>> On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
>>> I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned.
Just wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile.
Also what is the procedure to go about fixing it?
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
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>>>
>>> Email address:
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>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




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Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

The 25 is a great boat.  A whole lot of boat for the money too

Congratulations!

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 7:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile fix

I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just
wondering what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also
what is the procedure to go about fixing it?

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Fred

 

Rather than soda blasting buy a paint scraper and some blades and go out to 
your boat and scrape the old coatings off at the bow.  Do a 1 sq ft section.

 

Once you have completed one sq ft and then sanded that down to gel coat with 
120 grit sandpaper only then go in to your office and call someone to soda or 
dry ice blast your boat.  I think you will be much more encouraged to go the 
blasting route

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 12:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

 

I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers of 
bottom paint.

 

I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

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Stus-List survey

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Jon

Was the survey done for you?  Did you pay for it?

There are two types of surveys.  There is a pre-purchase survey
commissioned and paid for by the potential buyer and there is an
insurance survey commissioned and paid for by the existing owner for
insurance purposes.  The buyers survey is usually more detailed and is
there to point out the potential issues as well as strengths of the
boat.  An insurance survey does not always record everything to the same
level of detail and is designed to put a valuation on the boat for
insurance purposes.  I have had both done.  I like my insurance company
to have a very high opinion of my boat.  However when buying I like to
know potential expenses I will incur in order to determine a fair price

So back to the original question.  Who paid for the survey?

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Tasker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 76

I also bought my boat in Racine and got a multi-page report from the
recommended surveyor. The survey was dishonest from start to finish, had
the seller's interest in mind and future survey business. Had it been
honest, I could have gotten another $10,000 off the sell price. The
moral of the story is do your own survey.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 27, 2014, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Overpriced? (Robert Abbott)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 12:40:26 -0300
> From: Robert Abbott 
> To: Brent Driedger ,
"cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>
> Subject: Stus-List Overpriced?
> Message-ID: <544e676a.5000...@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> There is a buyer for everything, at the right price.
> 
> When we were looking for a boat in 2005-06, there were three (3) C&C 
> 32's for sale here in Halifax, N.S...looked at them all.  Looked 
> at a C&C 30 MKI and Mirage 32 here as well.
> 
> Ended up buying our boat from Racine Riverside Marina, Racine, 
> Wisconsin.one owner, professionally maintained, adequately 
> equipped, fresh water boat.  The purchase price, exchange rate and 
> transportation cost to truck it here cost us approx. $8,000 less than 
> what we would have paid for any of the local boats.  We also got a new

> 10' Zodiac thrown in.  And I have sold 3 sails that came with the boat

> that I will never use.
> 
> I never traveled to Racine to view the boat.paid a surveyor about
> $350 USD for a 23 page reportthat was the selling point, the
survey. 
>  I would do that no matter where I was buying a boat.
> 
> I understand many buyers would never do what we did, buy a boat unseen

> so far away.  Would I do it again, absolutely.
> 
> I wish this 32 seller well.if he gets close to his asking price, 
> it bodes well for all us C&C owners.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2014/10/26 10:54 PM, Brent Driedger wrote:
>> I'll chime in on this as Bowline Yachts was the broker for my boat
backwhen I bought it and I know the owner well. At first glance the
prices they ask seem high and become the frequent talk at the club but
with respect to the company's owner I'll provide a little insight to
explain thoughnot necessarily justify the prices.
>> In central Canada here there is not much option for buying used 
>> sailboats. The market is not saturated by any means and the stock of 
>> quality used boats available is thin. This usually means pay what the

>> owner wants oroutsource to the south and pay for exchange, shipping, 
>> border brokerage, flights to and from the location, permits and lots 
>> of survey charges. When you total it all up the prices end up being 
>> fairly close to what Bowline typically charges. Then add to that 
>> there is the comfort level of knowing the history of the local boats,

>> their owners and background. Furtherto that, our season is short so 
>> all of these boats are out of water for 7 months of the year. The 
>> boats are in fresh water the remaining 5 and onLake of the Woods 
>> there's little swell to speak of even in storms. The biggest hazard 
>> is grounding and unfortunately most sailboats there have touched 
>> bottom.  The remainder will some day. The rigs although 30 plus years

>> old show 

Re: Stus-List survey now brokers

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I am not sure if everybody realizes but a common practice is to find
your own buyers broker to represent your interest.  I did that when we
purchased Persistence because I knew and trusted him and he is right
next door.  My broker contacted the listing broker and between them took
care of many details that it would be difficult for me to do since the
boat was nearly 1000km from here by road.  Financially the listing
broker and buyers broker split the commission down the middle.

I really liked this arrangement because it really helped my own
interests and in a situation such as Jon mentioned would probably have
helped him as well.

This arrangement was great for me

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:16 AM
To: dwight...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey

Dwight said;


There is a good point!  Ask the broker which surveyors to stay away from
and use that as your short list!!  LOL

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: dwight via CnC-List 
To: "'Hoyt, Mike'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 09:57:37 -0300

Not sure I agree with you there Mike, I think it depends on the
surveyor...around here if TBoats (Iain Tulloch) is your surveyor I think
he does the same detailed inspection every time...I have had him survey
Alianna twice, 5 years apart for insurance purposes and each time I was
there and saw him go over the boat with a fine tooth comb...he checks
everything, including rig, deck, hull and rudder moisture content, hull
valves, electrical wiring, fuel lines, etc. and he includes lots of
photos in the report...my insuance company, Royal Sun Alliance, likes
his work but I believe the brokers don't share that feeling because he
often finds too many problems, some of which might discourage a buyer

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: October 28, 2014 9:25 AM
To: Jon Tasker; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List survey

Jon

Was the survey done for you?  Did you pay for it?

There are two types of surveys.  There is a pre-purchase survey
commissioned and paid for by the potential buyer and there is an
insurance survey commissioned and paid for by the existing owner for
insurance purposes.  The buyers survey is usually more detailed and is
there to point out the potential issues as well as strengths of the
boat.  An insurance survey does not always record everything to the same
level of detail and is designed to put a valuation on the boat for
insurance purposes.  I have had both done.  I like my insurance company
to have a very high opinion of my boat.  However when buying I like to
know potential expenses I will incur in order to determine a fair price

So back to the original question.  Who paid for the survey?

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Tasker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 76

I also bought my boat in Racine and got a multi-page report from the
recommended surveyor. The survey was dishonest from start to finish, had
the seller's interest in mind and future survey business. Had it been
honest, I could have gotten another $10,000 off the sell price. The
moral of the story is do your own survey.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 27, 2014, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Overpriced? (Robert Abbott)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 12:40:26 -0300
> From: Robert Abbott 
> To: Brent Driedger ,
"cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>
> Subject: Stus-List Overpriced?
> Message-ID: <544e676a.5000...@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> There is a buyer for everything, at the right price.
> 
> When we were looking for a boat in 2005-06, there were three (3) C&C 
> 32's for sale here in Halifax, N.S...looked a

Re: Stus-List survey now brokers

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Danny

When I list my boat with a broker he is representing me the same as a
real estate agent selling my house would.  I am his customer.

However when I found a boat I wanted I contacted a local broker to help
me put the deal together.  He also handled customs and everything else
for me including finding a surveyor in the area where the boat was
located etc ...  He is not in fact a "Buyer's broker" but is a broker
like every other that has boats listed for sale.  He is also very
knowledgeable in what is needed to buy a boat out of province and out of
country and who to contact in those areas   

I used the same broker to list my boat.

Yes.  He would be happy to find a boat for me or anyone else and would
have preferred me to buy one he had listed.

Another interesting thing is this list.  When I was looking at the boat
as a potential purchase Harry Hallgring form this list (and formerly
with Cukoo Voodoo a J27) looked at the boat for me.  This list has so
many contacts in so many locations that make it so great.  Having Harry
step aboard the boat gave me a perspective outside of that of a surveyor
that was really nice.  Things like odours and overall impressions that
surveys do not always convey were the things that Harry passed along.

Anyway 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:39 AM
To: dziedzi...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey now brokers


Really,

I thought they would all represent a buyer, just like real estate
brokers.  They may not advertise as a *buyers* broker but, I'm willing
to bet most brokers would be happy to help find you a boat for a cut of
the commission.

Danny
-- Original Message --
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
To: "Hoyt, Mike" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey now brokers
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 10:34:28 -0400

I guess in some markets this is doable. Personally, I could not find
one, where I needed him (her). But the surveyors were available. In
fact,  I interviewed three of them before selecting one.

Marek
s/v Legato
Ottawa

-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 10:26 AM
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey now brokers

I am not sure if everybody realizes but a common practice is to find
your own buyers broker to represent your interest.  I did that when we
purchased Persistence because I knew and trusted him and he is right
next door.  My broker contacted the listing broker and between them took
care of many details that it would be difficult for me to do since the
boat was nearly 1000km from here by road.  Financially the listing
broker and buyers broker split the commission down the middle.

I really liked this arrangement because it really helped my own
interests and in a situation such as Jon mentioned would probably have
helped him as well.

This arrangement was great for me

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:16 AM
To: dwight...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey

Dwight said;


There is a good point!  Ask the broker which surveyors to stay away from
and use that as your short list!!  LOL

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: dwight via CnC-List 
To: "'Hoyt, Mike'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 09:57:37 -0300

Not sure I agree with you there Mike, I think it depends on the
surveyor...around here if TBoats (Iain Tulloch) is your surveyor I think
he does the same detailed inspection every time...I have had him survey
Alianna twice, 5 years apart for insurance purposes and each time I was
there and saw him go over the boat with a fine tooth comb...he checks
everything, including rig, deck, hull and rudder moisture content, hull
valves, electrical wiring, fuel lines, etc. and he includes lots of
photos in the report...my insuance company, Royal Sun Alliance, likes
his work but I believe the brokers don't share that feeling because he
often finds too many problems, some of which might discourage a buyer

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: October 28, 2014 9:25 AM
To: Jon Tasker; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List survey

Jon

Was the survey done for you?  Did you pay for it?

There are two types of surveys.  There is a pre-purchase survey
commissioned and paid for by the potential buyer and there is an
insurance survey commissioned and paid for by the existing owner for
insurance purposes.  The buyers survey is usually more detailed and is
there to point out the potential is

Re: Stus-List Anyone in Toronto near outer harbor marina?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Danny

In November 2007 I drove to our marina to show interested people our boat at 
the time (Niagara 26 Full Tilt 2).  They agreed to buy it on the spot.  The 
drive home was quite sad.

By the time I arrived home 90 minutes later I was already scheming about the 
next boat which we bought ten days later (J27 Nut Case).

I know the sad feeling you describe.  However the fun of looking for and buying 
a new boat will quickly erase that.

Mike
Persistence
Frers 33

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 2:02 PM
To: joel.aron...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; stevanpla...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone in Toronto near outer harbor marina?

Yea, that saying about a boat owners happiest days didn't ring true for me.  I 
walked away a little heartbroken...


From my Android phone


 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 11/07/2014 11:57 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Stevan Plavsa 
mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>>,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone in Toronto near outer harbor marina?

Danny,

Congrats on being boatless!  Someone got a great boat!  I hope they are signing 
up on the list!

Joel

On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 11:37 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What kind of recon? Are you considering buying a boat that's located there?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 11:17 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Guys,

Looking for someone to do some recon in Toronto Outer Harbor Marina.
Is there anyone near there that might be of some help?

Danny
Now boatless...
Massachusetts

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List EPIRB selection

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hmmm

That reminds me.  Last month I came across an unused EPIRB that my Dad bought 
in the early 80s.  Is the technology still the sme and would it be worthwhile 
replacing the batter?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List EPIRB selection

All,

I need to buy a new EPIRB - the current one is too old for a battery 
replacement.  (I'll keep it as a spare as long as it tests OK.)

I am looking at a Type II with GPS.  ACR has 2 models.  One has "idiot lights"; 
the other has a digital display.  The digital display is $180. more.  The more 
expensive one has a better rebate, but I don't need 2 of the 3 freebies.  I can 
take the $50 cash rebate on the cheaper one and get what I need.

Would you buy the cheaper one or go for the fancy display?

Here they are:

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028709&id=2028728

Thanks in advance!


--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Greg

Take the one you still have to Rod's Machine Shop in Burnside and they can 
likely make you one.  If they are like mine and the ones on our last boat they 
will be symmetric.

The down side is Rods will likely charge you for minimum one hour

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Greg 
Sutherland via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2014 11:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate


Hey gang wondering if anyone here knows where I can find a replacement for my 
mainsail gate. I've tried to attach a picture but this site wont allow it due 
to email size. It's basically just two pieces of stainless 3/4" x 4" and it 
screws to either side of the mast track to keep the slugs in place. I have 
half, and the Northwest Arm has the other. I have looked at a few boats locally 
and they don't seem to have the same setup. The Binnacle couldn't source one so 
I figured I would check here next. Its off of an '87 33mk2.

Thanks!

Greg
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Dart board

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 12:34 PM
To: Letsgo Sailing; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

I believe one of the sail lofts gave the name "blooper" to a cruising spinnaker 
as well.  That would be basically an asymmetrical spinnaker that's only about 
165% overlap instead of the 180% width for a symmetric.
Don't exactly know how they figure the size to replace the symmetric on an 
older boat.
Guess it depends more on handicapping committees than anything else.
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL
C&C 30-1


On Tue, 11/18/14, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List  wrote:

 There you will find what a blooper
 
is.http://sailingmagazine.net/article-1422-memories-of-a-sail-that-lived-up-to-its-name-in-every-way.html
  
 

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Stus-List heaters

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Check your insurance policy.  Mine specifically states no unattended heaters 
between Dec 1 and April 30.  They are OK to have one while you are aboard

I use ceramic heater.  On our J27 would fire up three of those on boxing day 
and watch the World Junior Hockey championship on board on my digital cable.  I 
will miss those days.

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Zuehlke 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 1:19 PM
To: Tom Buscaglia; C&C email list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter worries


I was the same but then a oul filled caused an outlet in my basement to fry. 
Now I ama fan of new if there is any question at all.
On Nov 20, 2014 12:08 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Speaking of heaters, what types do you use?  We have been using an oil radiator 
for years because I thought they would be safer.  But I heard on caught fire on 
a boat last year and am a little less confident about that now.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List Draft

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Burt

The keel on your boat looks much more modern than that in the specs.  That said 
“more modern” is more of a late 70’s very early 80svintage so is possible that 
it came that way I suppose.  The keel on the line drawing looks a lot more like 
a C&C 33-1

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 6:00 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Draft

Burt,

The brochure for the later 33 shows 3 keels.  It is unlikely that someone 
modified the keel, but it is not unheard of.  Better chance that there were 
factory options.

Joel

On Thu, Nov 20, 2014 at 4:24 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I just got schooled by my boat (again).  The specifications for my boat show it 
having a draft of 5’6”. (This is a 1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner). I bought (used) jack 
stands for her winter stay in my back yard based on that. I just had her 
delivered and found out my stands are too short. I was able to recover 
gracefully from that little faux pas with the help of my yard who were willing 
to trade for the correct size. After the dust settled I did some measuring to 
find out where I went wrong. Having just been hauled she has a well-defined 
water line. I measured the actual draft and found it to be closer to 6’ 6”. Is 
it possible that the keel was either extended or replaced by a PO? Do owners do 
such things? It is still a fin keel but I noticed it has a different shape than 
the shape shown on the C&C specifications document for the boat. The 
specifications are for a custom ¾ ton but could there have been optional keels 
available? I will attempt to attach a pic. There is real experience on this 
list and your thoughts are valuable.

Here is a comparison of the silhouette from the specification drawing a 
sailboatdata and a pic of the actual boat.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLanZwZUsxeE1PaE0/view?usp=sharing

Burt
On the hard in Walpole, MA

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 35-1 for sale

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I think those are actually check stays rather than running backs based on the 
angle.  

I don't think I have ever seen a listing with so many pictures.  Some kind of 
new record.  The boat looks good but the hatch behind mast seems different and 
maybe too large?

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 for sale

http://www.boatquest.com/listing/134563/1970-35-ft-dot--c--c-35-mark-i.html#.VG9t-PIo6po

Some interesting features for a 35-1...inboard shrouds, running backs.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Reverse and then fwd?

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Brian Donovan via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: November 26, 2014 9:52 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding prop

This was my first season with Celtic Fire a C & C 35' MK III sailing on Lake 
Ontario.
I have a folding prop Prop (Flexofold 2 blade 16 R).
That does not open up all the way when the boat is moving, when this happens it 
creates a lot of vibration.
This problem does not happen when I leave the dock and start from a standing 
still.
I wonder if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and found a solution.

Cheers,

Brian

Brian Donovan
112 Frisbee Hill Rd.
Hilton NY 14468

585 313 1940

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Re: Stus-List headroom on C&C 36?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Lee

Our family had a 1981 C&C 36.  My father was 6'3" and they bought that boat so 
that he could stand upright.  If I remember correctly he had full standing 
headroom everywhere in the main cabin

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 1:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List headroom on C&C 36?

Hi All,

Anyone know the standing headroom on a C&C 36?

Sailboat data list the design as a 1977, but no info as to how many they made.  
I've sailed on one, heavier than the 35-III, similar interior design, but 
slower - we didn't have much wind. . .

I sure hope someone can give me a headroom number in the galley, saloon, and at 
the mast.

Thanks, Lee

-- 


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Re: Stus-List LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Josh

I am guessing heat exchanger that you refer to does not mean the same as in 
everyday life where it can be used as a heater for the boat with some 
reworking.  Am I incorrect?  I have 3GM30F and some days it is miserably cold 
while underway and the option of an onboard engine driven heater might be nice

Also.  I think your landfall38s likely have tons more access than our frers 33 
with an oversized engine.  Maybe Rich and I will have to compare next summer

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 11:55 PM
To: Patrick Davin; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?


The difference between the GM and HM are negligible.  Most/many parts are 
interchangeable.  The HM only came in 3 cylinders and had a slightly higher 
power rating.  The F designation means that it has a glycol (fresh water) 
coolant system and heat exchanger.  The GM came in 1, 2 and 3 cylinder versions 
in which parts were directly interchangeable.  Visually I believe all of the 
GMs have a place where a handle can be attached to the front of the engine to 
presumably hand crank.  I have a Yanmar service manual that covers all of the 
HM and GM variants.

Not sure about the QM.

As for access I enjoy 3 sides but could survive comfortably with just front and 
back.  Front alone would be quite challenging.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD
On Dec 2, 2014 10:40 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I took a look at a Landfall 38 last week, and yeah it's pretty bad (engine 
access). But does it actually prevent you from doing any critical tasks or is 
it more of a nuisance?

Also anyone know the differences between the Yanmar 3QM30F, 3HM30F, and 3GM, 
either in terms of size (access) or power / longevity?

The boat I looked at had the engine recorded as HM, as either a correction or 
upgrade (to a survey which indicated it was QM), but the owner said on this 
forum (a few years ago) that it came with a GM. The broker said it has the 
original engine. So this is very confusing/misleading, but will try to clarify 
with broker which it actually is.


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Re: Stus-List C-Map pricing is nuts

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Joe

Is because up to a year ago the cartridges were over $200/ I bought the 
Northeast one that does great lakes, atlantic canada, northeast US in July 2013 
for $230 CDN + tax ($260 after tax here).  $100 was a very good used price at 
that time.  

I still have it if anyone is interested. I no longer need it

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 5:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C-Map pricing is nuts

Some of you may remember I got a S-H plotter a little while ago. It came with 
no maps, so I have been searching FleaBay for used C-Map cartridges.
I have found out three things:
1. It costs about $90 to update an outdated cartridge.
2. I can buy a new C-Map Max cartridge for Block Island to Norfolk for $120.
3. Used FleaBay stuff is rarely under $100.
Anyone else think it is odd there is a market for old C-Maps that will end up 
costing as much or more than a NEW one once they are updated 


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Stus-List Cracks in spreaders

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We had the same problem with our J27 a few years ago.  Since was on a trailer 
we would take mast down every year and then would store in my backyard on saw 
horses.  Learned the hard way that water can find its way into the spreaders 
and freeze over winter.  This resulted in cracks on the tapered edge of upper 
and lower port side spreaders.

Hall spars will still manufacture te J27 spreaders but is over $200 each and a 
bit of wait time.  In the end we found a machine shop that does aluminum 
welding.  The seams were welded and the slight bulging removed.  Then we sanded 
all four spreaders and painted with Interlux Brightsides.  Have not had a 
problem since

The takeaway from that experience is that spreaders are now always removed and 
stored inside and that forestay foils always stored with the groove facing 
downward when possible.  In the previous two off seasons I went further and 
wrapped the entire mast in plastic although this year the mast on our current 
boat is stored indoors which is even better

So a warning to those with masts stored horizontally outdoors over winter 
months.  Remove spreaders!

Mike
Persistence
Frers 33
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:14 PM
To: Bill Coleman; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33-I Spreaders?

Why are so many former owners idiots? What is it with these people?
I assume the folks who have bought my boats have exactly the same questions.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 9 December 2014 at 15:20, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I would just weld the cracks, I had a few little ones on mine, welded them up 
10 years ago and no problems since . . .

Bill Coleman
C&C 39

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of David Paine via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 6:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33-I Spreaders?

Hi All,

I just took my mast down (original mast on a 1975 C&C 33) for some work and was 
horrified to find that one of my spreaders is cracked in a not-good way.  
Ideally, I'd like to replace it -- does anyone know where such a part could be 
found?  It's an airfoil shaped section that tapers toward the shrouds.

Thanks,

David

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Stus-List Spreaders? now PO as idiots

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I believe we were likely all former owner idiots at one time.

My first boat was a 23 footer and I installed cabin lamps on bulkhead in vee 
berth.  I used old appliance electric lamp cord (off an old household lamp) 
because I had no idea what should be used.  I am certain the buyer of that boat 
likely cursed at the PO when his cabin lights ceased functioning and he had to 
rewire.

If we were all born with 20 years of boat ownership experience I am certain 
there would be less boneheaded updates performed on these venerable old 
antiques we sail in …

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:14 PM
To: Bill Coleman; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33-I Spreaders?

Why are so many former owners idiots? What is it with these people?
I assume the folks who have bought my boats have exactly the same questions.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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Re: Stus-List Quality Construction

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I sail (race) a lot on a C&C 115 for the past five years.  They are not awful 
in light air and do sail well in all conditions.  However at 15-18 knots they 
win races.  These boats are upwind monsters in 18 knots with weight on the rail.

Mike
Crew on Koobalibra
C&C 115 59115

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 1:37 PM
To: Danny Haughey; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Quality Construction

On the 121, etc - The fiberglass build quality, sans some initial problems on 
the epoxy hulls, is first rate.  Hardware is first rate.  Design is excellent.  
Woodwork does not compare to the original C&C.  They sail like a bat out of 
hell.  Not sure where the comment about 15 knots and above comes from.  My 121 
loves light air.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 10, 2014, at 9:51 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> yea, this is exactly what I am up against.  we sold Lolita and the admiral 
> would like a jeanneau.  I can't bring myself to accommodate her.  The more I 
> learned about the Jeanneau the more I realized I don't think I would not be 
> happy with the construction/build quality.  We looked at a privately owed 
> trade in.  A 2006 Jeanneau 40 and many cabinet knobs were missing, some hatch 
> shades were pulled right out of the headliner where they were wood screwed 
> in.  There was a locker in between 2 port side seats down below where the 
> hing was ripped right out.  Most of the joinery was just screwed together 
> with wood screws.  It appeared like it was done more by a homeowner as a 
> weekend project than by a highly skilled craftsman...
> 
> I just couldn't imagine that type of failure, so obvious, on a privately 
> owned, 8 year old boat and feel comfortable with the rest of the 
> construction.  I do think older jeanneaus were better built before Bene got 
> hold of them. (bene was better built vessel years ago as well)  Then you look 
> at the hardware, I had more substantial winches on our 33 Viking.
> 
> My wife absolutely LOVES the layout of these things.  They are voluminous, 
> bright, they sit very high and have lots of port lights.  These are all very 
> nice for hanging at the dock but I I can't help but think how these 
> attributes would effect safety and comfort if we got caught in a blow with 
> some decent sized waves.  How do you brace yourself?  I can just imagine the 
> shuttering all those face screwed panels would do pounding into a good sea.  
> 
> All this is based on gut reaction to what I have seen.  which is really just 
> boat show boarding and a couple of showings as well as some reading up on 
> construction techniques.
> 
> So we end up in a dilemma,  Make the admiral happy and me uncomfortable about 
> the boat or, make me happy and the admirals feels she is in a tight, dark 
> wooden box.  There really does not seem to be any middle ground in our price 
> range...  
> 
> How do you guys feel about the tartan built C&C 121 or 115.  I've read they 
> really like 15knot winds and above.  I do think this is the one exception if 
> the C&C quality is there.  They do have a nice bright interior and I think 
> that would make the admiral happy.  I really don't have a great deal of 
> knowledge of them.  They never really showed up at boat shows and there 
> aren't too many available on the market.  They may also be a bit out of our 
> price range.
> 
> Danny
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Quality Construction
> Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 10:10:46 -0400
> 
> At the club last week and noticed a fellow member tolling away on the 
> work bench behind our spar shed...there is a big vice on it that 
> makes it convenient to do some jobs.
> 
> I walked over to say hello and discovered he was cutting out 'backing 
> plates'.asked him where he was installing them.
> 
> He said his deck cleats on the bow of his recently purchased Beneteau 
> 49
> (30,000 lbs.) did not have backing platesand he keeps his boat on 
> a mooring.
> 
> And he sold a C&C 41 for a Bene 49.he said he is beginning to 
> discover the difference in the overall quality of construction between 
> the two boats.
> 
> Thought I would pass that little piece of information along to anyone 
> thinking of buying a quality built Bene!
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
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Stus-List Salazar

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Ken
I saw a picture of Salazar on a trailer heading to a boat yard this weekend.  
Big work planned for the boat?
Mike

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