Re: Stus-List VHF says low battery

[wwadjourn]

Follow Fred's advice.  I did and very happy.  Bill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: Tue, 
Sep 6, 2016 8:30 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Frederick G Street;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List VHF says low battery
BOAT SHOW?!  Joel, I’m offended…   :^)

Standard Horizon GX-2200.  With a RAM3 mic in the cockpit.  There, that was 
easy.  I doubt you’ll see on with a built-in Class B transceiver any time soon. 
 But I may be proven wrong.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Sep 6, 2016, at 7:04 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:
The power cord is not even tinned, so corrosion inside is highly likely.  I may 
open it up, but I'll likely be looking for a new radio at the boat show.  I'd 
like to wait until there is one with an AIS transceiver.  
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[wwadjourn]

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  Boat in haul 
out well so we can make repair today.  A reminder that the zinc is important 
even in fresh water 😄Bill WalkerCnC 36Evening StarPentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: Thu, 
Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Frederick G 
Street;Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)
If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Bill,To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:1.  
The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass clevis that 
looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass which will need 
to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of your 33 series 
cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to the shift lever 
via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to move, I’ve seen 
many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in the clevis, 
rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a replacement cable 
(not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new clevis if the threaded 
end can’t be extracted.2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, 
you can move your throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the 
housing of the cable is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the 
cable won’t move independently of the cable housing, which means the cable 
won’t do anything at the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter 
you have, this can be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 
816 control (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the 
compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel 
shaft on the aft side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a 
cable clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the 
boat.  The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old 
as the boat and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp 
(along with the cables) can be found 
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDFThe
 process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project. If the engine control levers are set on port 
and starboard just aft of the pedestal between the pedestal column and the 
wheel and the control cables run inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that 
sit behind the pedestal base, you have either a 727 or 747 control.    If this 
is your set up there are going to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp.  
I would typically recommend calling Edson and seeing if they still have any 
cable holders for a model 727 engine control for a series 33 shift cable and 
also as them to send you the engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of 
the controller (which was discontinued in the late 1980’s).   They will likely 
recommend selling you either the 870 or 816 control (depending whether your 
cable is pushed or pulled to engage the engine in forward).  If you can bite 
the bullet and take that approach, you’ll probably be a bit happier in the long 
run since the 727 control is a PITA to work on.  If you’re married to the 
existing control, you’ll need to remove the compass, remove the pedestal top 
plate that covers the control’s internal cable attachments and then try to 
slide the cable up the tube to check that the cable clamp is still intact.  
Again, if Edson no longer has any more of the clamps, you may need to fab

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[wwadjourn]

Hurth, ugh.Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List Date: Thu, 
Jun 30, 2016 7:24 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: 
wwadjo...@aol.com;Subject:Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
Good Morning,I have yanmar 3gm30 with Kanzaki Birth KH18 gearbox. Two blade 
Max Prop.Saturday after race when started engine and placed in gear no forward 
or reverse.  Went below and had someone shift neutral, forward, neutral, 
reverse.  I could see prop shaft turning.  Buttoned up and worked fine rest of 
day through docking and later return to mooring.   Yesterday, same symptoms 
trying to leave mooring for first time since Saturday.  Sailed back to mooring. 
 Going to troubleshoot this morning.Thoughts to check:Shift linkage. Make sure 
full travel.Transmission fluid level.Turn shaft by hand to feel geared prop 
reversingDive on prop to see if fouled with fishing line, etc?
Any thoughts welcome.Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi

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Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[wwadjourn]

Good Morning,I have yanmar 3gm30 with Kanzaki Birth KH18 gearbox. Two blade Max 
Prop.Saturday after race when started engine and placed in gear no forward or 
reverse.  Went below and had someone shift neutral, forward, neutral, reverse.  
I could see prop shaft turning.  Buttoned up and worked fine rest of day 
through docking and later return to mooring.   Yesterday, same symptoms trying 
to leave mooring for first time since Saturday.  Sailed back to mooring.  Going 
to troubleshoot this morning.Thoughts to check:Shift linkage. Make sure full 
travel.Transmission fluid level.Turn shaft by hand to feel geared prop 
reversingDive on prop to see if fouled with fishing line, etc?
Any thoughts welcome.Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi

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Re: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk II

[wwadjourn]

Ditto ST 48s on my 36, love them.  
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Jim Watts via CnC-List Date: Fri, May 27, 
2016 12:45 PMTo: 1 CnC List;Cc: Jim Watts;Subject:Re: Stus-List Best self 
tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk II
I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well enough 
and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too feeble. 
I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 May 2016 at 15:41, Paul Baker via CnC-List  wrote:
Don't mess around. Get some Andersen all stainless. They will outlast you and 
the boat. They are the single best upgrade I have done on my boat, fabulous 
winches. 
Cheers,
Paul. 

Orange Crush
27mk2
Sidney, BC

> Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 14:23:57 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk II
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: swe...@att.net
> 
> I love the looks of my beautiful Stainless Barient 28's on my C&C 35MkII, but 
> am facing the reality that as I age, self tailing winches are becoming more 
> of a necessity rather than a luxury... What have other owners found as the 
> best replacement? I want to stay with stainless and fitting the existing hole 
> pattern would be a plus... Equal or slightly increased power ratio would also 
> be important. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 
> 
> Greg
> S.V. Piper
> C&C 35 MkII
> Lk. Saint Clair
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
   
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[wwadjourn]

I kiwi gripped my cockpit sol three years ago.  Too many years of feet of guys 
grinding the winches.  Anyway, go to home depot.  Get pair color c hips.  Match 
your cockpit.  Take white kiwi grip to home depot and they will tint for free.  
Talk nice.  Kiwi grip sends how to instructions and guarantees you will happy.  
Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List Date: Thu, May 
26, 2016 1:50 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Paul E;Cc: Patrick Davin;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you 
were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use 
then? It looks pretty white to me. 
I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way to go 
to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other nonskid (which 
I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time). 
There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a little 
weird. 
-Patrick1984 C&C LF38 Seattle, WA
On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM,   wrote:
From: Dreuge 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
Nice work Ryan.  
You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and over 
time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.

I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and Kiwigrip(non-skid). 
 Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy brush “ but in my case 
found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked out better.  Below is a link 
to my experiences painting the deck.
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
-
Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[wwadjourn]

Spectacular!Bill Walker cnc 36. Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Date: Thu, May 26, 
2016 11:46 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Ryan Doyle;Subject:Stus-List My 
Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote
Hey all,
I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C&C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.
This was the state of her hull 
before:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.
I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  
When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
Sanded:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.
Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 
Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."
Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.  I then waited a 
day for the primer on the boat to dry.
The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.
I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and 
tip/brush:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of the 
boat at one time - IE the whole transom, or all t

Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[wwadjourn]

Spend lots of time prepping.  As in most finishes, its about the prep.  Bill 
Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Paul Baker via CnC-List Date: Wed, May 18, 
2016 6:59 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Paul Baker;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Removing Polyglow
Good to hear as I have a kit arriving tomorrow ready for my haul this weekend. 
Wax looks great for a few weeks, especially with my orange gel coat, I'm hoping 
this stuff lasts longer and seems to be much easier to maintain. 
Cheers
Paul. 
Orange Crush
27Mk2
Sidney, BC. 

> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wed, 18 May 2016 18:29:37 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: billbinal...@gmail.com
> 
> Been using Polyglow for about 15 years with fantastic results. The boat 
> looks wet when I launch in April and it still looks wet when I haul it 
> in November.  When you read stories about people who had problems, it 
> ALWAYS turns out they didn't follow the very straightforward 
> instructions. It is fool proof unless you are a truly exceptional fool. 
> Don't improvise! Meanwhile, for Joe's benefit, if you do end up with 
> some area where the Polyglow gets abraded, it is very simple to simply 
> wipe some polyglow on the affected area. It temporarily softens the 
> surrounding polyglow and it blends right in. You can also remove 
> polyglow from just an area and then reapply it without doing the entire 
> boat if the need arises. I have yet to find a wax that has a brighter 
> shine, and wax never seems to look so great by the end of the season. 
> The way to test the shine is to hold a yardstick up to the hull and see 
> how many inch markers you can read in the reflection on the hull. Poli 
> Glow beats all waxes with that test. Magazines consistently report that 
> as well.
> 
> If you want a good indication of what Polyglow will look like on the 
> finish of your boat, just wet the boat with a hose. That is what it will 
> look like
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 5/18/2016 5:24 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List wrote:
> > So bottom line is poly Glow good or not so much?  Friend of mine has a 
> > badly chalked Santana and received for free an almost full kit of Polyglow 
> > he asked me if it was worth using.
> >
> > Gary Kolc
> >  Joseph Bognar via CnC-List > wrote:
> >> I found that if your fenders rub the hull in the same spot . It will wear 
> >> the Polyglow off.
> >>
> >> Sent from Joe Bognar
> >>
> >>
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[wwadjourn]

I don't use on my 36, but do use it on a power boat which has a navy hull.  I 
used to wax and polish and it looked like neck a week after launch.  Poliglowed 
last year and very happy.  Stays nice looking even after a year.  But I 
wouldn't do my cnc since gelcoat is still niceBill WalkerCnc 36Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: ahycrace--- via CnC-List Date: Wed, May 18, 
2016 5:25 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: ahycr...@cox.net;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Removing Polyglow
So bottom line is poly Glow good or not so much?  Friend of mine has a badly 
chalked Santana and received for free an almost full kit of Polyglow he asked 
me if it was worth using.Gary Kolc Joseph Bognar via CnC-List  wrote: > I 
found that if your fenders rub the hull in the same spot . It will wear the 
Polyglow off. > > Sent from Joe Bognar> > > 
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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Re: Stus-List electronics

[wwadjourn]

Just received my new standard horizon a is chef radio and ram Mic from Fred 
Street.   Don't know why any of us would buy through anyone else.  Bill 
WalkerCnC 36pentwater, mi
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Re: Stus-List Propane water heater

[wwadjourn]

I have this precision temp unit in my cnc 36.  Installed myself no problem 
five years ago.  Folks were very helpful.  It was a little cheaper then but not 
much.  I toured factory at time.  Impressed.  Bill WalkerEvening StarPentwater, 
Mi
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-- Original message--From: James Nichols via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 2, 
2016 3:33 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: James Nichols;Subject:Stus-List 
Propane water heater
There is a marine grade on demand propane water heater that I have been looking 
at. I was told that it can be mounted in the same place my current water heater 
is located,  under the cockpit. I will probably add another couple of Dorade 
vents and it requires its own exhaust vent. 
The unit I was shown is by PercisionTemp.
JamesS/V Kristy 1971 C&C 39___

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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[wwadjourn]

Eric,    That is a Delton or some other material spacer which acts as 
bushing to protect top of rudder shaft tube.  No problem but looks like you 
might want to replace.  They wear.  Hope to see you in Pentwater this summer.   
Bill Walker
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-- Original message--From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: Thu, Apr 21, 
2016 6:13 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Eric Frank;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Rudder collar "donut" removal
After looking at the rudder post coming up through the cockpit floor today, I 
think I confused the donut with what is broken on Cat’s Paw.  It appears 
thatwhat is broken is below the donut that is being discussed.  It’s right down 
on the cockpit floor.  What is it and what should I do about it? Looks like the 
infamous donut would have to be removed to replace it. Picture is 
athttps://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0Eric 
FrankCat's PawC&C 35 Mk IIMattapoisett, MA> I?ve been watching this saga with 
some interest.  Last spring I noticed> that the ?donut? on my 35 MkII was 
cracked in several places, but was told> on this list that the rudder would not 
fall off so it wasn?t critical to> replace it right away.  The donut on Cat?s 
Paw will be easy to remove> because it is broken in several places.  Can I get 
a replacement for it and> then just screw it on?  How are others dealing with 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[wwadjourn]

  

Is it possible that a PO doubled up the set screws?  Bill WalkerCnC 36
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Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[wwadjourn]

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


On a 1981 36' the handrails are through bolted with 3 inch machine screws and 
washers and nuts.  Remove headliner panels to access.  Very sturdy.  Bill Walker


This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out atwww.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
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Stus-List Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous

[wwadjourn]

Any Lake Michigan listers interested in a LM meet up?  Pentwater Mi Would 
be central.  So would Wisconsin shore.  Just sayin' we can't let the coasters 
have all the fun!  Bill WalkerEvening StarCnC 36Pentwater, Mi.
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


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Re: Stus-List Garmin Gwind

[wwadjourn]

I have got wired version of gwind.  What do you need to know?Bill 
WalkerEvening StarCnC 36
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List Date: Mon, Apr 
4, 2016 9:50 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Pete Shelquist;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Garmin Gwind
Not personally, wish I did.  A number of boats in our area have them and have 
spoken highly, especially at low air speeds.  From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Alessi via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2016 7:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Alessi
Subject: Stus-List Garmin Gwind Hey there,Anybody have any experience with the 
Gwind wireless or Gwind cable transducer? Tom Alessi
ANDIAMOC&C 36, 1980Rockaway Beach, NY
tagraph...@optonline.net___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[wwadjourn]

Danny,  I think you need to get rid of It immediately.  I have read on the 
internet that owning multiple anchors can be hazardous to your health.  I will 
send offlist my mailing address.  Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Date: Mon, Mar 
28, 2016 4:33 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Danny Haughey;Subject:Stus-List 
Stus List - Speaking of anchors
Hello all, Speaking of anchors,  I bought a 33lb Rocna for my Viking 33 and 
never even deployed it.  I kept the anchor and it is sitting in my shed.  Rocna 
recommends a 44lb anchor for the new boat.  The new boat came with a Genuine, 
Made in Scotland CQR. I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the new boat 
as it is not rated for it.  I thought about using for a lunch hook but, that 
doesn't make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, taking the convenience 
factor out of a lunch hook. I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell it 
and use the proceeds for the larger Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat 
already has an appropriately sized CQR?  We hardly ever anchor and usually get 
moorings wherever we go.  I'm thinking that will change over time but, we do 
like the convenience of just grabbing a mooring ball and I think the CQR should 
suffice for the next season at least. Anyway, just looking for some insights. 
Thanks,DannyRum Runner IVTartan 40Mattapoisett, MA___

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Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

[wwadjourn]

Dennis,    Thanks for your response, all on point.  I always wondered why my 
halyards were reversed from every other boat I have ever owned.  The port 
rounding of marks explanation makes sense and is probably the correct answer 
since my boat was raced harder than I do in previous life.  Bill WalkerCnC 
36Pentwater, MiSent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


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Re: Stus-List {} smaller wheel

[wwadjourn]

Gary Contact me direct please at wwadjour...@gmail.com Re wheel Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Gary Newton via CnC-List Date: Fri, Mar 4, 
2016 5:35 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Gary Newton;Subject:Re: Stus-List {} 
smaller wheelMedkrect If you know anyone looking for a 48" Edson destroyer 8 
spoke wheel with a straight shaft. I have one for sale. It came off of a C&C 
35' mark III. I am in Norfolk.Sent from my 
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Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[wwadjourn]

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


Marek,  Properly made a soft shackle will only get tighter by flogging.  
Honestly, I have used for several years and no issues, yet easy to remove and 
do not hang up on baby stay. Certainly will not let go even easier than bowline 
in my experience.  Everyone does what they like and thats ok.Bill Walker
-- Original message--From: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List Date: 
Thu, Feb 18, 2016 8:56 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
(hotmail);Subject:Re: Stus-List Soft shackle
I like the idea, but if, as someone said, a bowline could be shaken off, this 
soft shackle could even easier. I use the luggage tag knot and it works well. I 
managed to untie it without major effort (though, using an awl), when I 
replaced my jib a couple of seasons ago. MarekC270, “Legato”Ottawa, ON From: 
Jim Reinardy via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 22:09To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jim Reinardy Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft shackle My 
biggest issue with the luggage tag knot is the difficulty of getting them off. 
I ran across this technique which intrigues me. 
http://sailing.about.com/od/equipmentgear/ss/softshacklehowto.htm#step1 Also 
thinking about the soft shackles as well. Either way, I really hate running 
forward to clear a bowline off the shrouds during a tack, something will get 
done this spring. Thanks, Jim ReinardyC&C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI  ___

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Re: Stus-List Stus list Soft shackle

[wwadjourn]

Francis, I will give you that is  simple, but with two sheets each attached 
by soft shackle you can remove lazy sheet and attach to a different sail prior 
to hoist if need be.   Bill Walker  
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Date: 
Wed, Feb 17, 2016 4:06 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Jean-Francois J 
Rivard;Subject:Stus-List Stus list Soft shackle
If you're looking for the simplest / lightest/ most snagfree (And coolest in my 
book) way to attach your jib sheetsto your jib forget about the soft shackle /  
2 lines jib sheet withbig bowline knots or splices to snag the spinnaker pole 
car  / track/ etc on its way across on a tack. 

My rigger just showed me this trick:

1) You just have one continuous linewith a whip in the middle
2) You make a loop at the whip and passit through the eye on the sail's clew
3) You put both ends of the line throughthe loop on the backside... Done.  

Most of should know this knot: It'scalled a luggage tag knot.  

That my friends is the simplest / sleekestway to go.  You combine that with a 
timed late release of the lazysheet, It doesn't snag anymore, even with the 150 
in way too much wind:-)  

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[wwadjourn]

The knot is very small compared to any knot you are using to tie on a 
sheet, plus you have two knots.  Buy some dyneema and give it a try  I bought 
some appropriate sized knitting needle at Wal-Mart and cut off the ends for 
fids.  Works great.  You won't to backThat said, it is very hard to splice an 
eye in a double braid sheet that has been put under tension, but can be done,   
Bill WalkerCnC 36

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Ron Casciato via CnC-List Date: Wed, Feb 17, 
2016 3:19 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Ron Casciato;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Soft shackle
I agree with Joelthey are easy to makeusing the L-36 website………..just 
Google soft shackle and you’ll see lots ofpictures and ideas……….. We use them 
on Impromptu, a C&C38MKIIC for all genoa sizes……….I’d never go back to knots.  
I think I just sawan article on Soft Shackles on the Sailing World web site 
this week?? I’llsee if I can find it again. Ron CasciatoImpromptu C&C 
38MKIIC…….’77 From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] OnBehalf Of 
Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 20162:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Softshackle I followed the directions on L-36.com for a 
better soft shackle. have not used them with sheets, but there is very little 
of it to catchon anything. Joel On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 2:14 PM, Charlie Nelson 
via CnC-List wrote:I don't know how they work in action 
on aboat. However, they can be made relatively easily from single braid line 
(IIRC)using videos and instructions from the web. I came across several of the 
above as Isearched the web for splicing an eye loop in double braid line. Of 
course youmay not 'get it' on the first or second attempt but all you have lost 
is a bitof line and some time. It took me 2 total failures before I 'got 
it',trying to splice and eye in a double braid where the inner core providedall 
the strength (Class II splice). Right now I am 3 for 5.You might need a set of 
fids and aserious knife/scissors, etc., but if you can't get out and sail 
anyway becauseof the weather, doing a little 'nautical weaving' indoors can be 
a nicediversion! Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcbGreenville, 
nccenel...@aol.com -OriginalMessage-
From: John Russo via CnC-List 
To: CnC-List 
Cc: John Russo 
Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2016 11:04 am
Subject: Stus-List Soft shackleIs anyone using a soft shackle to attachthe Jib 
clew to the sheet?  If so what brand and any problems in operationlike catching 
on shrouds. JohnArpeggio1984 C&C 
32NorwalkCT___

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 -- Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[wwadjourn]

John,  I have used for several years.  Go on utube and look for how to.  
Not hard to make,  all mine home made on a rainy day.    No hang ups at all on 
baby stay .   recommend. Bill WalkerCnC 36
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet




-- Original message--From: John Russo via CnC-List Date: Wed, Feb 17, 
2016 11:04 AMTo: CnC-List@cnc-list.com;Cc: John Russo;Subject:Stus-List Soft 
shackle
Is anyone using a soft shackle to attach the Jib clew to the sheet?  If so what 
brand and any problems in operation like catching on shrouds. JohnArpeggio1984 
C&C 32NorwalkCT___

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[wwadjourn]

Garhauer. Call and they will walk through sizing, etc.Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List Date: Thu, Jan 28, 
2016 12:48 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Chuck Saur;Subject:Stus-List Boom 
vanging...
Here's another post to get some experience-based advising.  I am looking to 
purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is 
always in the way of everything.   I will also replace the blocks/line I have 
as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't want 
hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other 
considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them.
There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc.  Some are less expensive but 
appear the same.  Thoughts?



Chuck SaurMorning SkyC&C 35-3Hessel Michigan___

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Stus-List Phrf CnC 36

[wwadjourn]

Lake Michigan (lmphrf) for my 36 is 129 distance handicap, 141 non-spinnaker. 
At least last year. Most phrf regions have a website where you can search by 
boat.   
Bill Walker
Evening Star 
Pentwater Mi

Sent from my HTC

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Re: Stus-List compass repair

[wwadjourn]

FWIW, I fixed the large bubble in my Ritchie compass this week.  Bellows and 
everything looked fine, so on a -6 degree morning after leaving it in garage 
overnight with the fluid, refilled per instructions on the internet, and it has 
held for a week.  Looks like bubble gone. Hopefully for the season. 
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from my HTC

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[wwadjourn]

Ouch. Made some for  a buddy this past fall.  Teak cost $126.  Took me about 4 
hours.  Pictures if you email me direct.  I could walk you through it.
Not difficult with table saw, router or shaper table, spindle Sanders or drum 
on a drill, hole saw jig or band saw.  
Bill Walker
wwadjo...@aol.com. 

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Curtis via CnC-List" 
To: "Paul Fountain" 
Cc: "" 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)
Date: Sun, Feb 22, 2015 4:48 PM

So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
DIY project? should I try to make my own?
Help$$$


*Solid Teak Handrails:*

- *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
- *12" Centers*
- *112" overall length*
- *1" Thick*
- *2-1/2" High*
- *4" Pad Bases*
- *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
- *12" Centers*
- *76" overall length*
- *1" Thick*
- *2-1/2" High*
- *4" Pad Bases*
- *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish
coats by others.*

*Pricing:*



*(2) 9-Loop & (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
$1,070.00*



*Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - $55.00*



*Packaging & Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
237.00*



*Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -$1,362.00*



*Note:*



*The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
proposal. *



*Delivery:*



*Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
entry.*



*Payment:*

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:

>  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
> his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the
> custom shop. They look great on the boat!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
> rails on my C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
> boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
> girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
> owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
> time. Capt Curt.
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
>
> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>  *cpt.b...@gmail.com *
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.___

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Re: Stus-List Navtec pump service

[wwadjourn]

I can second the recommendation that you check a farm implement shop.  Quick, 
easy cheap.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater. Mi

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Charles Nelson via CnC-List" 
To: "Tracy Hirsh" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Cc: "Robbie Epstein" 
Subject: Stus-List Navtec pump service
Date: Wed, Feb 4, 2015 10:21 PM

I may live so far out "...in the sticks..." in Eastern NC that "...we have to 
import the sticks 😄..." but we have many hydraulic shops, mostly because we 
have a lot of farm and logging equipment in use.

I had my Navtec unit (after about 15 yrs in use) seals replaced, cylinders 
smoothed/rebored?, etc. for about $300 at one of these a few years ago.

Compared to the size and complexity of most equipment these shops deal with, my 
Navtec unit was a piece of cake, especially to the "...good old boys..." who 
are used to more complexity and quicker turn-arounds. (If you have contracted 
with an equipment lessor to get your crop planted, fertilized, harvested, etc. 
during a certain time interval, you or they cannot afford to wait for a 2-3 
week repair time!)

With appreciation to those "actual rocket scientists" on the list, this 
repair/rebuild does not even approach rocket science. It's a hydraulic cylinder 
for Heavens sake! The fact that it is used on a sailboat may inflate the repair 
cost (if it is repaired by a rigging shop) but at the end of the day it is a 
simple hydraulic cylinder.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb













Sent from my iPad
..
> On Feb 4, 2015, at 9:15 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thank you Robbie. 
> I got a suggestion from Francois Rivard to try Zern Rigging in Pensacola. I 
> will let you know how it goes - Rick Zern will be closer for you as well!
> Tracy
> 
>> On Feb 4, 2015 7:47 PM, "Robbie Epstein via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> I had my Navtec pump and back stay cylinder rebuilt at Florida Rigging in St 
>> Petersburg a couple of years ago.  I live in Fort Walton and couldn't find 
>> anyone close by to do it.  They were easy to work with, and did a great job.
>> 
>> Robbie
>> 1980 C&C 40, Thorfinn
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> > On Feb 4, 2015, at 2:28 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Stus-List Navtec pump service on Upper Gulf Coast
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[wwadjourn]

Ditto on Garhauer making mine out of stainless.  
Bill Walker
36

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "John Russo via CnC-List" 
To: "'Richard N. Bush'" , 
Subject: Stus-List Broken Goose neck
Date: Sun, Jan 11, 2015 11:54 AM

Garhauer Marine fabricated a stainless goose neck for my 32 to work with a
solid vang. Very reasonable. Ask for Guido or Marc and send them your broken
goose neck for dimensions and mast shape.



John



Arpeggio

C&C 32

Norwalk CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 2:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck



I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying
at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part
that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of
the "ring" was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only
assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as
the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I
have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just
"broke"; nonetheless, can this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a
new one? The boom is original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  



Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River



Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255



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Re: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:

[wwadjourn]

Paul,
I own a 1981 CnC 36.  Contact me off list for general questions on the boat if 
you like. 
Bill Walker
wwadjo...@aol.com

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Paul Wyand via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:
Date: Tue, Jan 6, 2015 11:22 AM

Hello all, I am looking at a C&C 36 pretty seriously for a liveable boat. I
think it will work out for me, but am looking at a few things that may need
to be done to make the boat comfortable for year round living aboard.

1.) Icebox refrigeration, what size is the icebox? I am trying to figure
out a plan for refrigeration. Anyone that has done this, advice woudl be
helpful.

2.) How can you search the list? Seems you can get the past posts in bulk
but I don't see any useful search function.

I am sure I will have lots of questions if I go through with the perchance.___
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Stus-List KVH WIND

[wwadjourn]

I may have posted before, but still looking for KVH wind instrument, ESPECIALLY 
analog wind direction.  Any working used instrument or shop that works on these 
would be appreciated before I bite the bullet and go for new.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star


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Re: Stus-List Older style Autohelm wheel pilot popping out of gear

[wwadjourn]

Kevin,
The guts of wheel pilot not complicated.  Remove from wheel and pop the two 
halves apart.  You will see the the lever/cam which engages is held in place by 
very small Pins which can sheer off and allow cam to move freely independent of 
lever.  I suspect this is the problem.  You will need small push pin or drift 
to remove the pin and broken off part.  Back end of small drill bit may work 
for you. Or heavy needle.
I took broken pin to a local Fastenal store and bought some replacements cheap.
Hope this helps.  Just tear into it and you will figure it out. 
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Stus-List Older style Autohelm wheel pilot popping out of gear
Date: Sat, Dec 27, 2014 5:02 PM

My older style, black box, Raytheon St4000 (Mk 1?), wheel pilot started
popping out of gear randomly. The lever that engages the wheel is popping
up on it's own and not engaged when this happens. Does anybody have
insight? This is one of the few pieces of kit I haven't had to fix yet.

While we are at it, if you have working spare parts, especially a wired
remote, I would be interested in them.

The control has looks like this :
http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mTdBjp0Awihug-CKKD4BG8g.jpg

And the wheel drive looks like so:
http://thumbs3.picclick.com/d/l400/pict/161326531550_/Raymarine-ST4000MK2-Wheel-Drive-Only-Compatible-Autopilot.jpg

Thanks!
Kevin___
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[wwadjourn]

I replaced my cabin sole on my 36 with European grade teak and holly plywood 
last winter. Did work myself.  Used old for patterns, did work 425 miles from 
boat and all fit like a glove.  
Paid about 280 a sheet for ply, pick up at distributor.   Needed two sheets.  
Applied epoxy to bottom and sides of all.  
9 coats varnish, sand between every other coat.  
I estimate 10-!5 hours fabrication, 10-15  hours varnish.  Two quarts varnish. 
The 36 has a lot of floor compared even to a 34.  Five separate pieces.  
This is a ridiculous amount that they want.  I wouldn't pay a penny over the 
yard estimate without really good reason.  Call your lawyer.
Bill Walker
Retired Judge and Lawyer
Evening Star
CnC 36 



Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Dan Utinske via CnC-List" 
To: "Burt Stratton" , 
Subject: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement
Date: Fri, Dec 12, 2014 4:41 PM

Sounds like there's a need for KY Jelly!

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 1:35 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Steve, Wow!
>
>
>
> I’m curious where the $4,100 expectation came from. That is a huge
> difference. The cost of having professionals do any marine work is always a
> little surprising to me but this does seem high unless there were
> significant unanticipated challenges associated with the work. In that case
> you should have been apprised of the situation and given the opportunity
> for approval. They ought to be able to provide you with the details of the
> cost factors assuming this was not a firm quote. If it was a firm quote
> then “miscommunication” is an understatement. Like maybe you missed the
> second page of the quote with the total on it. Sorry to hear about your
> situation.
>
>
>
> Burt
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *steve
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, December 12, 2014 4:00 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement
>
>
>
> I acquired a 1984 C&C 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for
> a couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out
> nicely.  However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The
> freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to
> replace it.
>
>
>
> The shop just finished installing the new teak & holly marine
> grade plywood sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they
> should be and the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole
> really improves the look of the cabin.
>
>
>
> Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I
> apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had
> expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable
> and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual
> bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!
>
>
>
> So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work
> and the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely
> hosed.
>
>
>
> I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood
> was about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.
>
>
>
> Steve Anderson
>
> Shadow
>
> C&C 41
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List post

[wwadjourn]

Home improvement stores sell the screw caps.  White and off white.  

Bill Walker. 

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Howard and Skippy via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List post
Date: Thu, Nov 6, 2014 6:18 PM

Does anyone have a lead on where to get replacements for the little red 
lenses on the electrical panel of mid 80's C&C's.  Mine is an 84 35-3 
and about 1/2 of the red caps are AWOL.  I am also trying to track down 
about 12 of the cream colored caps that go over the screw and clear 
circular keeper on the removable ceiling panels . Thanks.
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[wwadjourn]

I must disagree. Steaming light is forward facing white light located 
approximately 2/3 way up mast and showing 225 degrees forward only, lit along 
with running lights when motoring a sailing vessel.  It is not all around white 
masthead light.  my belief.
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnV 36




Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
To: "C&C List" , "Burt Stratton" 

Subject: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs
Date: Thu, Nov 6, 2014 11:07 AM

You got it.  Steaming=masthead.
On Nov 6, 2014 11:06 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Sorry for the rookie question but what is the steaming light?
>
>
>
> For sailboats I am aware of the deck bi-color, masthead and stern lights,
> tri-color (which is mounted  on the mast and used as an alternate to the
> deck mounted bi-color and stern lights, and the anchor light. Is "steaming
> light" another term for masthead light?
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave
> Godwin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 06, 2014 10:49 AM
> *To:* Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs
>
>
>
> ... and I could could buy a bigger (C&C!) boat if I had a dollar for every
> time I have seen the tri-color AND the ship's running lights on at night.
> Here's another one that I found "amusing", sailboat under power, tri-color
> light on, and the steaming light lit. Now there's an interesting lighting
> configuration.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>
> Ronin's Overdue Refit 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 3, 2014, at 2:49 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Bob, a tricolor is indeed a substitute for deck level running lights. But
> it may only be used while sailing. And it should never be used in addition
> to deck level lights.
>
> Andy
>
> C&C 40
>
> Peregrine
>
>
> Andrew Burton
>
> 61 W Narragansett
>
> Newport, RI
>
> USA02840
>
>
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
> +401 965-5260
>
>
> On Nov 3, 2014, at 13:38, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a substitute
> for deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in addition.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
>
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> ___
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Garhauer

[wwadjourn]

Another positive experience from Garhauer Marine.  Sent my main sheet traveller 
to them after lost some ball bearings, don't ask; they replaced all in 
traveller, replaced all in the blocks too, no labor charge, just cost of 
bearings and shipping.  This is on a 1999 traveller car.
Very happy.
Bill Walker
C n C 36
Pentwater, Mi

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Re: Stus-List EasyBlock Mainsheet Traveler

[wwadjourn]

Does anyone have source for replacement lens for our teardrop running lights, 
circa 1981?  Orin alternative, experience with replacements(led) I see on 
internet?
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36


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Re: Stus-List Overpriced?

[wwadjourn]

I hope he gets it!!!  But I doubt it.   
Bill Walker

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Overpriced?
Date: Sat, Oct 25, 2014 1:11 PM

While I think this appears to be a nicely equipped and well maintained 
boat, I think the owner is overly optimistic with his asking price.  We 
bought our boat in 2006 for half that price and it was a well 
maintained, fresh water, one owner boat.

Sure would like to hear any and all comments on this!


http://www.bowlineyachts.ca/sailboats/1984candclegacy.html

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

[wwadjourn]

Did new floor boards for my 36 last winter.  West epoxy then 8 coats minwax 
helmsman.  I have used many, and this is as good as any.  I used gloss, not 
slippery if you are wearing shoes.  
Bill Walke


Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish
Date: Thu, Oct 23, 2014 11:00 AM

Listers,

Seeking recommendations for a varnish to use on the interior floorboards on the 
Enterprise. 

Of course, I want something that is easy to apply, takes a coat or two to have 
a award-winning appearance, is durable and something that will last for a 
decade or more. And since that produce doesn’t exist, I’d like to know what 
would be the best compromise. 

The boat's up for the winter, so I’d like to get brushing over the next few 
weekends. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___
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Re: Stus-List Racing rules question

[wwadjourn]

I believe you could have protested both boats.  Rule 60.1 allows a right to 
protest if your boat is "involved in or saw the incident".  Assuming that you 
hailed but didn't go up to avoid a collision, and middle boat did likewise, I 
think a committee would find against third boat and exonerate the boat nearest 
you, which feels right.  Dave Perry's "100 Best Racing Rules Quizzes" is great 
winter reading. 
I may be all wet. 
Bill Walker
Evening Star 
Pentwater, Mi.  

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Racing rules question
Date: Mon, Oct 20, 2014 3:19 PM

Hmm.  Sounds like a Mexican divorce.

you wrote:
> Unfortuntely, the 'real' culprit in this scenario
> escapes (Q) without any penalty since the boat able to protest him (NC) 
> screwed up their protest. So NC gets disqualified (because of a
> technicallity on her protest) and the most culpable boat in this scenario (Q) 
> 'skates' with no penalty!


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Re: Stus-List Online Captains License or class room?

[wwadjourn]

Transportation workers identification card 


Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
To: "Jack Fitzgerald" , "C&C List" 

Subject: Stus-List Online Captains License or class room?
Date: Fri, Oct 3, 2014 3:38 PM

What's TWIC?
Gary
S/V Expresso

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 3:12 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a couple of friends that found out the hard that when the USCG says
> "No, TWIC, no license" they mean it..
>
> Also, my wife & I used the Sea School back in 1988 and both scored 99 on
> the written test..
>
> We just renewed both licenses and the cost for the 2 was approximately USD
> 500.00 not including the hassle of renewing the TWIC, drug screens and
> physicals.
>
> Jack Fitzgerald
> HONEY
> US12788
> Savannah
>
> Best regards,
> Jack Fitzgerald, export manager
> Fitzgerald Forwarding Co. Inc. FMC license no:1966F
> 260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
> Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458
> Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
> www.fitzgeraldforwarding.com
>
>
> **PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com  FROM YOUR ADDRESS
> BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
> *
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 1:24 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Drug and medical testing wasn't cheap either.  We also had to get a TWIC
>> card at ~$137 a piece.
>> I second Josh's comments about Mariners Learning System - but I had the
>> hard copy books (as well as online / DVD's) and found myself using them on
>> long flights, making notes etc.  I passed the test easily after taking the
>> course - I added a couple of apps to my phone for light / signal flash
>> cards that came in handy.  I would recommend Mariners Learning System - if
>> you are OK learning from materials / on your own.  Just to note, this was
>> not my first experience with certification, having done the RYA tests when
>> I lived in England.
>>
>> Getting the correct medical and drug testing done is not as simple as it
>> sounds.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 11:14 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Online at mariners learning system was fine for me and my wife.  I
>>> didn't like the materials because it was a video that simply read through
>>> the course book.  The tests were simple quizes and module tests were rote
>>> memorization of the written and video material.  We made flash cards of all
>>> of the quiz and test questions and passed the final test pretty easily.
>>> Crammed the night before.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>> On Oct 3, 2014 10:59 AM, "Curtis via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Need some advise



 I have always wanted to get my ticket. When i retire I want to be able
 to move some boats for a living maybe for a local marina and the like. I
 want to get the ball rolling. But I find that there are from around $500
 bucks on line to as much as 1500 in class type schools. I was hoping for
 some incite on the better way to take and pass the test. I want to learn
 and I want to pass. I want to better hone my skill to become a better
 skipper. I have a 65 mile ride to Charleston or a 30 mile ride to Savannah
 to find a school. Are the On-Line courses sufficient enough to make the
 test passable? I would thing a instructor would be needed to prepare for a
 test like that? they claim a 98% pass rate.

 Lets here your 2 *¢*

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
 you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
 away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
 Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain

 *cpt.b...@gmail.com *


 * __/) *

 .




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>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>
>>> Email address:
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>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>>> page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> _

Re: Stus-List Slacking the Baby Stay

[wwadjourn]

Just a thought, and I 're- made my floor boards this winter,is to make a slit 
all the way the the edge so you can remove without taking it out.   On my boat 
it is pretty close to edge.  I could send you photo.  
Why?  What if you need to get to that area quickly?
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "RPH via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Slacking the Baby Stay
Date: Mon, Aug 25, 2014 10:52 AM

My 1989 C&C 30 MKII has rod rigging and a baby stay. Above the deck,  the baby 
stay is wire rope, unlike the rest of the rigging. Below the deck, in the 
V-berth, the tension of the baby stay is carried through a piece of rod rigging 
that is attached to the stringers under the cabin sole. 

I am redoing my cabin sole and I'm going to have to temporarily remove the rod 
rigging in V-berth (because it passes through a hole drilled into the small 
piece of cabin sole just past the forward bulkhead).

I am concerned that if I slacken the rod rigging in the V-berth (which seems to 
be under tension) there will be too much force placed on the deck by the baby 
stay (which is also under tension). I have also wondered what the effect would 
be if I put a pelican hook or similar on the baby stay above the deck (i.e., 
would releasing the baby stay then put too much tension on the rod rigging in 
the V-berth?). 

Is there any particular method that I should use here? Also, when I do unatach 
the rod rigging in the V-berth, how can I be sure to get everything back at the 
right tension (assuming that my back stay is slackened)? 

Thanks in advance. It's great to be part of this community! 

Robert H.___
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Re: Stus-List blown alternator diode

[wwadjourn]

The thread on alternators got me to ask myself, "how do you known if you have 
an internal diode on alternator, and how do you know if "blown?"
I am, electrically challenged, admittedly.
Bill Walker
CnC 36


Sent from my HTC

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Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove

[wwadjourn]

Do not use "stove cooking fuel" if you mean Coleman fuel.  That is gasoline.  I 
know someone who is very lucky.  Thought Coleman fuel same as alcohol.  Oops.  
Bill Walker.  

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
To: "Burt Stratton" , 
Subject: Stus-List Alcohol stove
Date: Mon, Aug 11, 2014 11:28 AM

smell?

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Alcohol stove

This my first go-around with alcohol stoves. Seems to work very nicely. Cleaned 
it up filled it and brewed a big pot of coffee in no time. Is there any reason 
not to use plain old denatured alcohol instead of stove cooking fuel? 



Skip






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Re: Stus-List Tiller

[wwadjourn]

I have made many bent shaft canoe paddles.  From what you are describing sounds 
very doable.  Can you send picture off list.  
Bill Walker
CnV 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
To: "Bill Bina - gmail" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Stus-List Tiller
Date: Wed, Jul 9, 2014 1:31 PM

Yes there are less than perfect options available. I really like the look of 
the original unit. C&C cut every corner on cost with the MkV (compared to 
previous mks) but somehow spent money on this really slick tiller. I'd prefer 
it look original when I'm done. 
I looked at the website last night. Good to know they can build me a rudder if 
I destroy mine. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom build 
> this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the places that 
> either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address after I sent them a 
> photo of what it was I needed. 
> 
> Obviously, you could replace the tiller with a more conventinal one of the 
> correct width, using conventional metal sideplates to attach it to the 
> rudder, but that all wood wishbone tiller is a styling hallmark of the 27-5. 
> The custom builders that did respond all said that they could make one of the 
> right dimensions with metal sideplates that would "work". 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
>> On 7/9/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
>> Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap.  
>> http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php.  Jerry. C&C 27v.  
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating

[Wwadjourn via CnC-List]

I spray painted my pedestal with rustoleum satin black two years ago and it 
still looks great.  Fresh water boat in the great lakes though, might make a 
difference.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star




-Original Message-
From: Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
To: Jake Brodersen ; cnc-list 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Sent: Sun, Jun 29, 2014 10:48 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating


Do you think it would work well on a black pedestal?  Mine has been eroding 
away 
in a few spots over the years.  Might be best to remove the pedestal and have 
the whole thing powder coated, but maybe the zinc chromate primer and black 
paint might get me by for a few year?  What do you think?  Anyone have any luck 
with painting over the cancer while still on the boat?

Thanks,

Brad
CnC 36
"Dora Pearl"
Seattle

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 29, 2014, at 3:45 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  
wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I've used zinc chromate primer and black spray paint.  It has held up well.
> The primer has a tenacious hold, while the black spray paint may need a
> touch up after a couple of years.  Overall, I'd say it works well.
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> "Midnight Mistress"
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton Va
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2014 12:27 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Aluminum coating
> 
> The black coating on the stanchion bases along the rail on Alera have flaked
> off in a few spots.  I bet someone here has dealt with this issue...
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Arera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[wwadjourn]

Dennis,  think a single soft shackle would work? 
Bill Walker.  

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
To: "Kevin Driscoll" , "CnClist" 

Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
Date: Wed, Jun 18, 2014 9:12 PM

I had a very similar problem times two.  Touche' has forward lower
shrouds.  It's like having two baby stays.  Touche's jibsheet bowlines hung
up on each of the forward lower shrouds on each tack.

I ordered new 3/8 VPC jibsheets with eyes in each end from apsltd.com.  To
attach the sheets to the sail, I used soft shackles, one on each eye.

Problem solved!  Our first tack with the new system was amazing.  The sails
flew through the foretriangle with little to no delay or hanging up.
Highly recommend the upgrade to soft shackles.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 8:21 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I find that my jib sheet bowlines get hung up on my stay quite a bit,
> especially with my 130 on. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> 30-2
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
>
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[Wwadjourn via CnC-List]

Dennis,
   Do you have source of soft shackles?  See West carries small ones.  How 
exactly do you connect to clew?  Is it just the "knot" on the shackle that goes 
through the shackle loop?


Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: Kevin Driscoll ; CnClist 
Sent: Wed, Jun 18, 2014 9:12 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay




I had a very similar problem times two.  Touche' has forward lower shrouds.  
It's like having two baby stays.  Touche's jibsheet bowlines hung up on each of 
the forward lower shrouds on each tack.  

I ordered new 3/8 VPC jibsheets with eyes in each end from apsltd.com.  To 
attach the sheets to the sail, I used soft shackles, one on each eye.


Problem solved!  Our first tack with the new system was amazing.  The sails 
flew through the foretriangle with little to no delay or hanging up.  Highly 
recommend the upgrade to soft shackles.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA





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Re: Stus-List List water pump repair

[Wwadjourn via CnC-List]

Anyone know how to troubleshoot PAR diaphragm pump that pumps great but will 
not shut off when reaches pressure.  Just keeps on grinding.  There is NO air 
in system.  with faucets open pumps great, great pressure, but when shut 
faucets it won't reach pressure and stop.  Is there a setting for pressure?  
Was working fine this spring, now not.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

[Wwadjourn via CnC-List]

Installed a Johnson Little Ultima bilge switch, electronic, from Defender, item 
no 502961 last year and very happy with it.  Nothing to get fouled, all self 
contained in the little box.  39 bucks


Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater Michigan
In the water and sailing!!!






 

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Re: Stus-List Teak and Holly floor Boards

[wwadjourn]

Google Homestead teak and holly plywood.  I bought from t hem earlier this 
year.  Quality stuff.  I was close enough to pick up at their shop.
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnV 36

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Lee via CnC-List" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Teak and Holly floor Boards
Date: Sat, May 24, 2014 2:44 PM

I  need to replace the floor boards on my 1987 35' C&C Mark 3.  
I am having trouble finding a source.  Any suggestions for me or has anyone 
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Stus-List Halyard

[wwadjourn]

I must replace my main halyard due to improper winter storage, I guess by me, 
and significant chafing.  
Interested in recommendations for type and vendor.  Do use UK Kevlar tape drive 
main for racing.
Bill Walker
C n C 36  
Sent from my HTC

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Re: Stus-List Batteries

[wwadjourn]

Thanks to all on battery info.  Helps 
Bill Walker.  

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-ListBatteries
Date: Thu, May 1, 2014 5:28 PM

Can someone with knowledge explain difference between group 27 and 31 
batteries.  Will 31s fit in same box as 27s?  
Thanks.  Need to replace house this year.   
Bill Walker
C n C 36

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Stus-List Batteries

[wwadjourn]

Can someone with knowledge explain difference between group 27 and 31 
batteries.  Will 31s fit in same box as 27s?  
Thanks.  Need to replace house this year.   
Bill Walker
C n C 36

Sent from my HTC

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Re: Stus-List ABYC compliance issue.

[Wwadjourn]

Here is link to Fire Port. 
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.

http://www.marineeast.com/a_sch/sch_det.asp?cid=13&pid=13_01

-Original Message-
From: Glen Eddie 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Thu, Apr 17, 2014 11:00 am
Subject: Stus-List ABYC compliance issue.



Can someone please let me know how to comply with the below Survey 
recommendation for a C&C35 MkI.  My Insurer is requiring compliance, which I am 
happy to do provided that it doesn’t cost me $$.
 
 
B.10 (PAGE 10) FIXED FIRE EXTINGUISHING SYSTEM (HALON TYPE):No fixed fire 
fighting system on vessel. As per ABYC A-4.5.2.2, A single suitably sized
portable fire extinguisher provided and installed
in proximity to a port to permit discharge directly
into the engine compartment without opening the
primary access.
 
Your assistance is appreciated. 




Glen Eddie


Tel:  416-777-5357


Fax:  1-888-812-2557


ged...@torkinmanes.com


VCard


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors
151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7 
torkinmanes.com
Member of the International Alliance of Law Firms
This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.


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Re: Stus-List floor board fasteners

[Wwadjourn]

Thanks all for replies.  I'll let you know how it turns out.



-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Wed, Mar 26, 2014 4:27 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List floor board fasteners



Gets my vote. 


Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2014, at 1:20 PM, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:



As most screws get 'screwed' up - no pun intended' , I would vote for the 
Robertson head screws in stainless, and an electric screwdriver.
 
Gary 
  
- Original Message - 
  
From:   RAYMOND   SHIBE 
  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 1:31   PM
  
Subject: Re: Stus-List floor board   fasteners
  


  
For the price of the PYC fasteners you could   buy a battery powered 
drill/screw driver and simply use regular screws. My   near future plans are to 
use "T" nuts from McMaster and Carr as the threads in   the anchor
  
points for my floor boards are no longer   viable.
  
Ray Shibe
  


On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 11:13 AM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:

  


I am redoing my cabin floorboards.  Previous owner had them screwed down.  
Very difficult to remove for inspection.  

Anyone have link/suggestion for other options for securing with better 
access?  I thought I had saved a similar question but can't find it.   

Bill Walker

Evening Star

CnC 36

Pentwater, Mi.  




  
  

  
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Wwadjourn]

Dave,
   Don't over think this, really.  Get some needle nose pliers (ones with 
curved nose great) and a small phillips screwdiver.  Put the screwdiver on the 
center drive shaft and apply enough inward pressure to counteract your pulling 
on the impeller.  You should have no problem.  
Bill Walker
Evening Star,
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Sent: Sun, Mar 23, 2014 11:38 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller


Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
puller?  Dave


On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:



David
 
What water pump.  I have a Sherwoodpump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to be 
very careful when pulling theimpellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
impellor drive shaft out altogether…ifI do that the job of impellor replacement 
instantaneously becomes a much biggerjob.
 



From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] OnBehalf Of David Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gearpuller

 
I need to change myimpeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the presentone, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  
I tried to useit yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of theimpeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of thepuller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite 
thick. Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 


DavidKnecht

Aries

1990C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)











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Re: Stus-List Autohelm St4000 how it should work with the GPS

[Wwadjourn]

I almost shudder at posting in this thread, but . . . . . . 
One other point, read the manual, and set the gain on the auto pilot.  You will 
never get optimum performance, read: a straight course, without doing this step 
in the set up, AND every time that power is completely removed from the pilot, 
e.g. winter storage. 


Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi






 

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Re: Stus-List friggin COLD - cabin heaters

[Wwadjourn]

I am surprised you folks in cold weather areas don't use your diesel.  I 
wouldn't have installed, but my boat came with a diesel forced air furnace, 
mounted in cockpit locker, small exhaust out port side stern area, with 
thermostat and all.  One outlet in the head, one in the v berth, two in the 
cabin.  Toastee!!!  And makes drying stuff in the head a breeze.
Bill Walker
cnc 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Sent: Wed, Jan 8, 2014 12:35 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List friggin COLD - cabin heaters


The catalytic propane heaters don't make carbon monoxide but they can cause 
oxygen depletion...I used several different models over the years, in several 
different boats, and keeping the hatch cracked a bit is enough to keep oxygen 
incoming. 




On 8 January 2014 09:19, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

Dennis, i've read that the alcohol heaters induce a lot of condensation, has 
your experience been the same?


On the topic of propane heaters, I was always under the impression that they 
weren't to be used indoors (carbon monoxide). But if Andy says they're good 
then I'm onboard. I might get one for winter work on the boat. We don't really 
sail in cold weather because the boat gets hauled in early October. It gets 
cold, but it only matters for the first couple of weeks before and after 
haul/launch, not worth the investment in a proper cabin heater at this point.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto





On Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 9:56 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:


I have one of the Origo Heat Pal alcohol heaters.  It is kick ass.  Will keep 
the cabin pretty toasty.  Can also warm food, etc. on top of it.

Pricey but there is one on eBay right now:  



Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





  
 
 
 
   From: Rich Knowles 
 To: cnc-list Cnc-List  
 Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 8:24 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List friggin COLD
  
 


Joe, can you not get hold of one of those alcohol or propane tent warmers? I 
think Coleman makes them among others.


Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.




On Jan 8, 2014, at 10:12 AM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:


Sure wishing I had some heat onboard






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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull

[Wwadjourn]

Peter,
   Probably not a big deal.  I suggest when boat is in the slings ready to 
launch you have a burly yard guy pull/push the bottom of keel while you watch 
the "crack" closely.  If there is any give in it, that is you can see crack 
expand/contract, you need to do something before launch.  If it is truly at the 
keel stub/lead keel junction, not deep, and no movement, fill if you want with 
something suitable, paint and launch.  my opinion.
Bill Walker
Eveningstar
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi



-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Tue, Dec 17, 2013 1:28 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull


Peter,
Tim is trying to differentiate between the fiberglass and the lead.  Most of 
our boats have a sked or partial style keel as opposed to a full keel.  The top 
of the keel (stub) is formed as part of the fiberglass layup and extends below 
the belly of the boat about 12 inches.  The lower part of the keel is usually 
made of lead and has bolts that extent up through this 12 inches of fiberglass 
stub to the interior of the boat where the nuts can be seen and torqued.  The 
relative narrowness of our boat's keel and stub provide insufficient lateral 
support to the keel.  Flexing can occur which often causes a crack at the joint 
to form.  The keel is usually bedded with something like 3M 5200.  This adds to 
the problem because the bedding compound flexes more than the faring compount 
or the various layers of paint.
It sounds like Tim was concerned (rightly so) that you may have been describing 
a crack where the fiberglass stub merges with the belly of the fiberglass boat. 
 If this is the case then you ABSOLUTELY need to root out the problem.  If on 
the other hand it is at the fiberglass to lead joint then a little 
investigation may be in order.  Often it is just a crack in the bottom paint. 
Many of the listers refer to this as the C&C smile and have been living with it 
for years.  The boat smiles at them an they smile back.  ;-)  Other's have 
performed extensive and repeated attempts to repair or prevent the crack.
If no water is coming up through the bolts and the crack is very shallow then I 
would consider just a bottom painting.  If there is any indication that water 
is making it deeper, possibly to the bolts, then some sort of repair is 
probably in order simply to prevent degradation of the lead and stainless steel 
bolts.
As previously suggested, it never hurts to check the keel bolt torque.  I 
believe the expected way to do this is while the boat is on the hard so that 
the keel is being pushed on by the weight of the boat.
Let us know how things turn out.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 17, 2013 12:23 PM, "Peter"  wrote:


Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led 
keel buts up against the fibreglass hull – there is a clear crack all around, 
but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the yard 
exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional 
cruising boats). 
 
Not sure where you mean by ‘where the hull turns into the stub’…
 
Thanks,
Peter
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear
Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull

 

Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel) or 
where the hull turns into the stub?  I have been fighting the latter for a 
couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former.  It looks like 
we'll need more surgery this winter.

 

Tim

Mojito

C&C 35-3

Branford, CT

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter  wrote:
I have a 1974 C&C 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and try 
to spend a few months sailing during the winter.

There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go 
deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the 
folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had 
others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Kind Regards,
Peter White
SV Outrider


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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm - marking wheel, etc.

[Wwadjourn]

Good tip.  How do you determine 2 and 4 degrees? Simple trick?
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36



-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Fri, Nov 22, 2013 9:06 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm - marking wheel, etc.



Good tip on the wheel marks.  We do similar on Touche'.  I have a 36 inch wheel 
that is used only for racing.  Normally, I use a 32.  We use tape, green for 
TDC, yellow for ~2 degrees, red for ~4.  When the main trimmer sees the red 
tape stripe at the top he eases the traveler.

A "visual" boat is easier.  We have a Navtec hydraulic backstay.  I taped a 
small batten to the cylinder so it extends upward several inches to the head of 
the ram.  On it are green, yellow, red and black tape marks.  We adjust the 
backstay to the desired headstay sag then remember the color where the head of 
the ram is.  Easier than looking at the pressure gauge.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





  
 
 
 
   From: allen 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 7:36 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm
  
 


  
Rob,
 
I have sailed Septima for nearly 20 years, in all kinds of wind and sea 
conditions, racing and cruising. Some lessons learned.
  
Sail her flat, no more than 18 degrees heel.  We   have inclinometers on the 
back head and the helm and trimmers work to keep her   in range.   
Check your sails.  If they're old, they're too   baggy, you're gonna heel.  We 
have low stretch racings sails.Lowered our weight aloft a lot and they 
don't let the draft come aft   as the wind picks up.   
Useful tools: hydraulic backstay adjuster, bridge deck   mounted traveler with 
a windward adjustable car, cockpit adjustable genoa   cars, powerful 
cunningham.   
Tune your rig with the mast raked 10 to 12   inches.   
You sail a 30-2, with its broad beam carried so far   aft, differently than the 
older designs.  We actually steer   Septima with the main because the main 
trimmer has the windward   car and is sitting on the side deck in front of the 
helm where they   can communicate easily.   
Our wheel in marked each side of TDC with a seam that   indicates 4 degrees of 
rudder.  Helm puts the appropriate seam TDC,   trimmers trim the sails, and, as 
the boat gathers speed along the course line,   helm relays to main trimmer 
whether helm is light or heavy.  Main is   retrimmed using the traveler only.  
Object: keep the foils moving thru   the water at 4 degree incidence angle and 
keep heel 15 to 18 degrees.   
As wind speed picks up. use sail controls to keep   things in balance.  More 
backstay pressure, halyard tension, aft movement   of genoa cars as needed for 
headsail; more cunningham, traveler to   leeward, twist off the leach for the 
main.

All these actions keep the boat balanced, fast and stable.  I have never had 
the rudder stall.  Its always at 4 degrees incidence.  Can help to move crew 
weight aft as wind really picks up.  It's not rocket science.
 
Allen Miles
S/V Septima
Hampton, VA
 
Oh yes, I was a rocket scientist.
 
 



From: Robert Gallagher 
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 1:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm



My 30MKI had the mast raked back and the rigging on the tight side. Weather 
helm yes, it could be a bear. Round ups never.  I could bury the rail deep and 
just keep plowing along. 
My 30MKII's rudder will stall then round up out of control with to much sail up 
and not enough tension on the backstay.  Too much heel and it gets scary. 
All that being said im still learning on my MKII


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Re: Stus-List Go Pro Camera

[Wwadjourn]

Gentlemen,
   Anyone use a Go Pro camera?  Or others? To record sailing experience for the 
long winter nights.  Model and pros and cons would be great.  Wife wants to buy 
for Christmas
 but I am not sure.  
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Michigan  49449
 
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Re: Stus-List Edson steering issue

[Wwadjourn]

On  my 1981 CnC 36 the steering gets "stiff" when boat is heeled and travelling 
to the wind. Before launch, there was no play when manually tugged it to and 
fro, side to side, front to back.  Noticed end of last season.  I have never 
lubricated in three years I have own boat  The bushing looked good.  I haven't 
crawled into the cave in the back yet, thought I would throw this out their for 
ideas.  
Wheel doesn't turn as easily as my friends 34 at rest, but not stiff, and 
certainly not when underway.  

Thoughts?
Bill Walker
1981 CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.


-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, May 20, 2013 10:23 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sometimes things actually work out - Memorial Day and 
cold front



We plan to arrive in Annapolis Friday night. I am not 100% sure of our plans 
after that. We may hang around Naptown and we may go up the Severn.
I’ll post how we do showers when I get a chance.
 

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris Price
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sometimes things actually work out - Memorial Day and 
cold front

 

Joe, I may be doing the same. We've got the whole week following Memorial Day 
but probably only until Wednesday (no shower on board!) Had a great sail to 
Swan Creek Saturday, not so good on the way back yesterday. Hope to see you out 
there.

Chris Price
Pradel
35 Mk I

From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 9:13:21 AM
Subject: Stus-List Sometimes things actually work out - Memorial Day and
cold front

Last year we had temps in the 90s and light/no air.
I need to pick my son up from school on Friday afternoon and head south to 
Annapolis to pick my wife up after work. So far it looks like we'll be headed 
south right after frontal passage with 12-15 knots from the north and cool dry 
air! This is Chesapeake heaven :) I'll be sacrificing rum to King Neptune daily 
and maybe sacrificing a  foredeck cow to keep this forecast going!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Racing prizes

[Wwadjourn]

Jeez Edd, that's scary!  I have TWO of these exact cabinets in my living room.  
Nice hardware.

Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Fri, Apr 12, 2013 2:08 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Racing prizes


Here's a good example of the awards we've given out over the years -- a shot of 
the Enterprise's trophy case in my dining room. 


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/awards.jpg





All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website











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Re: Stus-List rust removal

[WWadjourn]

Thanks all.  I'll try a product with oxalic acid as ingredient as it  seems 
to be common in these various products.  
Bill 
 
 
In a message dated 12/10/2012 9:55:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rickbr...@earthlink.net writes:

 
Mary  Kate “On and Off”. Or maybe its “On ‘n Off”. Anyway, it will take 
care of rust  and the brown stains on the waterline.  
The  active ingredient is oxalic acid, so be careful how you apply it (with 
gloves)  and rinse thoroughly. 
I’ve  also used a cheap cleaning product from the dollar store whose active 
 ingredient was oxalic acid, and it worked fine. Since it was not marketed 
for  “marine” use it was a whole lot less expensive than the Mary Kate  
stuff. 
Rick  Brass 
Washington,  NC 
 
 
From: CnC-List  [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of  
wwadjo...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 1:22  PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List rust  removal

What are favorites for removing rust stains on fiberglass.  Tried CLR, bar 
keeper' friend, comet with bleach.  All helped some,  but not perfect.

Bill Walker
Evening Star
C n c 36
Pentwater,  Mi 
 
- Reply message -
From: "Rick Brass" <_rickbrass@earthlink.net_ 
(mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net) >
To:  <_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) >
Subject:  Stus-List FW: Charging System Advice - Windlass installation
Date: Sun, Dec  9, 2012 12:47 pm
Reposted  message. The first try was too big for the list. I did not 
realize all the  previous discussion was still attached. 
 
 
From: Rick Brass [_mailto:rickbrass@earthlink.net_ 
(mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net) ]  
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 12:11 PM
To:  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Subject: RE: Stus-List Charging System  Advice - Windlass installation

I  can’t say that I’ve ever noticed a problem with moisture or smells on 
Imzadi –  at least moisture through the anchor compartment. It’s certainly 
true that any  water that comes in is going to end up in the bilge. But the 
hole is only  about 2”x3”, and is internal to the windlass (or was covered 
by the hawse pipe  before now) so the amount of water that gets in is pretty 
minimal. The sounds  of Eastern North Carolina are brackish to salt water, 
with mostly mud bottoms.  I try to get the mud off the chain as it comes in, 
and haven’t particularly  noticed a smell from the 100 ft or so of damp 
nylon that ends up in the  locker. Maybe it because of the power vents in the 
boat, or maybe a smell and  I’m just used to it. But I understand your 
concerns. 
When  I had moisture in the v-berth cushions, it was because of a leaking 
foredeck  hatch. But since I have replaced the lens and the hatch seals, I’ve 
not had a  problem. I have a Nicro vent to install in the foredeck hatch, 
but have not  gotten around to it yet. 
Regarding  the anchor roller, try looking at the list archives for 
September 2011. There  were a number of bow roller arrangements discussed, with 
photos of a couple of  alternatives, and sources for add on rollers. IIRC, 
Peter 
Deppich had a pretty  slick arrangement that he bought from a source in 
Canada, and which bolted to  the stem of the boat using some of the existing 
stem fitting attachment  points. I recall it because I thought about adding 
one to Imzadi, but elected  to go to Stainless Outfitters for an “anchor 
Carrier” so I can carry 2 anchors  on the bow. 
Rick  Brass 
Washington,  NC 
 
From: CnC-List [_mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-list.com_ 
(mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com) ]  On Behalf Of _djhaughey@juno.com_ 
(mailto:djhaug...@juno.com) 
Sent:  Sunday, December 09, 2012 11:22 AM
To: _cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
Subject:  Re: Stus-List Charging System Advice - Windlass  installation
 
Hi Rick,
 

 
I do have that locker up at the  bow.  It is pretty large and any water 
that will end up in there will end  up in the bilge.  However, it will run 
though the storage under the  V-Birth to get there.  I'm just not sure i want 
that.  I guess I  could pipe a drain through there.  I'd really rather have a 
separate  compartment for that with a drain through the hull.  I guess I 
could do  it the way you did for temporary and then glass in a compartment 
later.  It seems you get a whole lot of access to the anchor line by just  
dropping it into that compartment.  I'm just afraid of all that added  moisture 
in the cabin, not to mention smell.  We had some real moisture  issues and 
the bedding was very moist...yuck  but, I think it had more to  do with the 
time of year and the humidity in the air we had at  night.
 

 
That sure seems like a beefy  solution you came up with!  I'll probably 
borrow some of your ingenuity.  I'll still have the bow roller solution to 
contend with, as well...  I was thinking of taking the bow fitting off and 
taking it to a  fabricator to see if we could come up with a solution.  My idea 
is to get  a couple of, off the shelf, anchor rollers and then modify them 
with stainles

Re: Stus-List Hot water heaters

[WWadjourn]

Check out PrecisionTemp.com.  They make a model for marine use.   I have 
one.  No insurance issues.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.
 
 
In a message dated 10/24/2012 7:53:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnclistforw...@hotmail.com writes:

Check  your insurance policy before you do that...  mine would be void if 
I  installed one of those.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C  35-III #11


Colin Kilgour wrote:
> If I was to buy a new water  heater, I think I'd consider a propane one
> rather than  electric.
>
> I rarely hook up to shore power anymore, so the  electric heater's a
> bit of a waste.
>
> Also, being able  to have a hot shower while on the hook in New England
> and Maine would  have been really nice.  Water's cold up there
>
> My  $0.02
>
> Cheers
> Colin
>
>
> On  10/24/12, Gary Nylander   wrote:
>> I may be interested. My boat just has a 110v heater as  well. It quit a
>> couple of years ago and with a raw water cooled  engine I decided not to
>> bother, but.
>>
>>  Where are you? How much?
>>
>> Gary
>> - Original Message -
>>From: David  Risch
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>   Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 4:09 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water  heaters
>>
>>
>> Joel,
>>
>>I replaced the Raritan (for some  wacko reason the PO had 110v only 
unit
>> nstalled??!!...it is still  sitting basement...anyone want it?) with a
>>  Seaward.
>>
>>Works fine but I imagine the  Raritan will hold the heat longer.   We 
can
>> hold  shower-hot war for about 12 hours.
>>
>>David  F. Risch
>>(401) 419-4650  (cell)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  
--
>>   Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 16:02:36 -0400
>>From:  joel.aron...@gmail.com
>>To:  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Stus-List Hot water  heaters
>>
>>The Office has a 6 gallon Raritan  hot water heater that is starting 
to
>> rust at the bottom, so I know  its days are numbered.  I could replace it
>> with an identical  unit for about $700.  Defender and others sell a 6 
gallon
>>  Seaward unit for about $250.
>>
>>
>> Any recommendations (besides shower  ashore)?
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>Joel
>>301 541  8551
>>
>>
>> ___ This List is 
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>>
>>  
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>>
>>
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>>

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