Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-20 Thread Marek Dziedzic
If/when you install solar, make sure that you don't skimp on the charge
controller. It will make or break the entire project. When you look at it, a
good controller might be around half of the cost of the system. Read up on
various types of solar controllers. A good source is Main Sail's musings on
Sailboat Owner's forum or his own web site
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel).

Marek 
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-19 Thread Stevan Plavsa
If all you want is to keep your batteries topped off in the short term have
a look at solar. I outfitted my boat with an 80watt panel mounted above the
bimini for about $350. $100 of that was for SS fittings. Solar is perfect
for the "top off" 3rd stage of charging. If you're going cruising solar is
something you'll be able to use then too. I'm on a mooring so no shore
power. I sail on weekends with a few cruises in the summer and the solar
has worked out great so far.

Best advise so far is to invest in Nigel Calder's book .. I have his and
Don Casey's books and for me, they're both great. I love this mailing list
and I think the people here are super helpful and knowledgeable but there's
nothing that you'll learn here about electrical systems on boats that you
won't learn from either of those guys' books ... plus their books are full
of all sorts of valuable information on all the boat systems you're likely
going to have to replace, install or maintain prior to, and during that
cruise. A good investment.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 1:51 PM, dwight  wrote:

> I have a quiet 2000 Honda generator...it's not that small
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
> Bryant
> Sent: December 18, 2013 2:27 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
> Yeah, I have to admit I didn't get my power consumption estimates
> right.  It worked out okay when I had high capacity Trojans on board,
> but these Mexican golf cart batteries have about half the capacity,
> which means a daily recharging regimen.  And, of course, it doesn't help
> that I discovered that my 12V TV can play .avi movies on a flash drive!
> I just spent a week on the hook watching 'Breaking Bad' Season 1 through
> 5 non-stop.  Doing stuff like that wasn't part of the initial power budget.
>
> Thank goodness for my little quiet Honda 2000 watt generator. (smile)
>
> Wal
>
> Curtis wrote:
> > Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
> > principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep
> in
> > mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that
> before
> > from people starting out. HAHAh.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread dwight
I have a quiet 2000 Honda generator...it's not that small

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: December 18, 2013 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

Yeah, I have to admit I didn't get my power consumption estimates 
right.  It worked out okay when I had high capacity Trojans on board, 
but these Mexican golf cart batteries have about half the capacity, 
which means a daily recharging regimen.  And, of course, it doesn't help 
that I discovered that my 12V TV can play .avi movies on a flash drive! 
I just spent a week on the hook watching 'Breaking Bad' Season 1 through 
5 non-stop.  Doing stuff like that wasn't part of the initial power budget.

Thank goodness for my little quiet Honda 2000 watt generator. (smile)

Wal

Curtis wrote:
> Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
> principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep in
> mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that
before
> from people starting out. HAHAh.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6430 - Release Date: 12/18/13


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? comment aboutalternators

2013-12-18 Thread dwight
Yes, that surprised me too, I think that was back in June and I don't
remember the daytime temps but nights can be chilly around here in June,
probably was cold and rainy for a few days, otherwise I would have been down
on the boat and turned things off sooner. I like spending sunny afternoon
time on the mooring, I am on the water and not much work involved.my dog is
OK to spend a few hours there, while I putter around, cleaning, fixing,
polishing, listening to the stereo (country) and relaxing with a cigar and a
drink or two before suppertime.might sound boring but it's a pretty good
life.then he gets restless and wants off so we go ashore for supper, much
less trouble than supper on the boat.the ice box was almost empty except for
a few beverages.and you are correct, we don't live aboard much anymore,
that's a long story that has a lot to do with that same little dog.maybe
soon we become land cruisers, those small mobile homes are starting to look
attractive and sometimes you run into a lot more company and good parties at
parks than you do anchored off in a sailboat, but I will probably always
have a boat moored down back. 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: December 18, 2013 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? comment
aboutalternators

 

Dwight;

 

Rich and I were addressing the power systems for a boat used for long term
live aboard cruising. IIRC you are on a dock and use your boat for daysails
and the occasional weekend or vacation cruise. For than situation, the OEM
alternator is just fine.

 

Starting your engine draws somewhere around 200 amps for something around 30
seconds. That is less than 2 AH reduction in capacity. Add a 2 to 3%
reduction for self discharge over a month at the dock. Call it another 4 AH
on a typical  group 24 battery. So you need to put around 6 AH back into
your start battery while the engine runs, and the battery is probably at
around 95% charge when you start out, so there is high resistance to
charging and reduced acceptance rate. You probably need to run the engine
for 20 or 30 minutes to recharge the start battery.

 

All your boat systems except the bilge pump are turned off when at the dock,
except when you are on vacation. So you only have to replace the loss from
self discharge in your house bank. Two golf cart batteries is probably
around 275 AH capacity, times 3% per month, is around 8-9 AH. Your OEM
alternator is probably able to accomplish that while you motor out and raise
the sails.

 

I'm sort of surprised that the house bank was able to run your refrigeration
for 5 days. Most refrigeration systems seem to use 45 or more AH in a 24
hour period. But then, you are in the great white north so maybe the lower
average temperature differential reduces the cooling load and thus the
current draw.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

Hi Rich

 

I am not sure what my alternator output rating is but my ammeter never shows
more than 60 and even that is not for long as it settles out to between 15
and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of steaming.  If I switch from
one battery bank to the other during steaming I can sometimes notice a
slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a bit) but even that is
momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6 volt deep cycle
batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24 deep
cycle.they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and I
run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember to
manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and
now can't remember which wires go where to reconnect it.Last season I left
the boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off
the fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power
left in the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added
insulation around the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my
start battery and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some
sailors use more power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like
a pretty high charge rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on the
cells?

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: December 18, 2013 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

And to increase the presumptuous factor:

 

The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
vol

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Wally Bryant
Yeah, I have to admit I didn't get my power consumption estimates 
right.  It worked out okay when I had high capacity Trojans on board, 
but these Mexican golf cart batteries have about half the capacity, 
which means a daily recharging regimen.  And, of course, it doesn't help 
that I discovered that my 12V TV can play .avi movies on a flash drive! 
I just spent a week on the hook watching 'Breaking Bad' Season 1 through 
5 non-stop.  Doing stuff like that wasn't part of the initial power budget.


Thank goodness for my little quiet Honda 2000 watt generator. (smile)

Wal

Curtis wrote:

Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep in
mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that before
from people starting out. HAHAh.



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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Curtis
I forgot I do have pressurized fresh water. But its not heated. An what I
was fingering out is that C&C 30MK1 will be o.k for the first summer? and
she the Admiral will want to move up to a bigger more equipped boat for
extended cruising. This would be a great boat to learn on and then move to
a  36' / 42' when I have her sold on the life aboard. She will be
begging for the luxuries you speak of. hot water a/c refrigeration ect...


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> I asked them about that when we had them to dinner several years back.
>  Really.  They were in Minneapolis for a seminar I helped organize.  Great
> people.
>
> They still use oil-based nav and anchor lights.  Larry’s pretty adamant
> about being a “purist” on his hand-built wooden boats.  They also still use
> a scull to get in and out of anchorages, as their boats haven’t had engines.
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Dec 18, 2013, at 11:10 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:
>
> I bet it even happens to Lynn and Larry Pardey.
>
>
>
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Frederick G Street
I asked them about that when we had them to dinner several years back.  Really. 
 They were in Minneapolis for a seminar I helped organize.  Great people.

They still use oil-based nav and anchor lights.  Larry’s pretty adamant about 
being a “purist” on his hand-built wooden boats.  They also still use a scull 
to get in and out of anchorages, as their boats haven’t had engines.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 18, 2013, at 11:10 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> I bet it even happens to Lynn and Larry Pardey.

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Rick Brass
It's true that the space available for batteries is different, and adding
more capacity will be more difficult for Curtis. (And even on the 38, the
locker under my quarter berth was big enough for all 5 batteries in my 2
banks - though not deep enough for the GC5 batteries I had wanted to install
- but I had to modify the access in order to use all the space in the
locker.)

 

But the requirement for capacity will be driven by use and systems, not the
size of the boat. If cruising full time, Curtis's Admiral will want
refrigeration (instead of eating only canned food. She will want to take a
shower, so a water heater and a pressure water system. His first attempt to
navigate at night in a fog will make him want radar. Playing with the big
boats in the Gulf Stream off the Florida Coast will make him want AIS.

 

It's pernicious. The power requirement just keeps growing and growing. I bet
it even happens to Lynn and Larry Pardey.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

Rick, I seem to remember that Curtis has a 30. He couldn't have near the
needs you do on your 38 or he would be all batteries in that smaller boat.

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From: Rick Brass <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:45 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

Curtis;

 

At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
horse.

 

If your intent is extended cruising - particularly offshore cruising where
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
every day - you will first need to think about the systems you have on board
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar?
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio
or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.

 

Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my
house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That
gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for 2 days between
charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting battery as a second
bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to power the head and the
anchor windlass.

 

The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I have
an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a solar
charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to install
an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I'm hooked to shore
power or running the engine.

 

To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time - which is OK
when I'm traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.

 

As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you will
be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have installed
for cruising.

 

You said you had an "OEM" battery charger installed. Probably not really
OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on
the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and
worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post
I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for
some extended cruising. 

I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a
charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 

Sorry for the confusion.

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your p

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? comment about alternators

2013-12-18 Thread Rick Brass
I think it likely that, when attached to shore power, your permanently
installed battery charger is maintaining the batteries as the shore power is
providing power to any AC outlets you have. That's one of the reasons that
you need a battery charger with a "float" charge rate. Charging the
batteries with 14+ volts full time (as the old fero-resonant chargers did)
or until the internal resistance was high enough to shut off the charger (as
a semi-old charger might do) will boil away the water in the batteries and
kill a set of batteries very quickly.

 

The 1.5 amp "trickle charger" you bought is probably delivering a tenth of
an amp or so at around 13v to maintain your batteries when in "Float" mode.
That sort of charger is good when you are day sailing and leave the boat
plugged in to shore power for long periods, but it will literally take days
to recharge a significantly discharged batter at just 1/5 amps max current.

 

You can verify that the shore power is powering your DC systems pretty
easily. Plug into shore power and turn off your DC systems.. Measure the
voltage across the terminals of your house bank with a voltmeter. If you see
13v or more, the battery charger is powering your DC system (up to the
maximum current that the 1.5 amp or the "OEM" charger can supply). If it is
12.5v or less, then it is not.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? comment about
alternators

 

So here's a dumb question?

If I'm on shore power is just my battery charger and the DC outlets using
shore power or can I run the cabin lights and radio on the DC system? and if
so how?

 

 

On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Rick Brass 
wrote:

Dwight;

 

Rich and I were addressing the power systems for a boat used for long term
live aboard cruising. IIRC you are on a dock and use your boat for daysails
and the occasional weekend or vacation cruise. For than situation, the OEM
alternator is just fine.

 

Starting your engine draws somewhere around 200 amps for something around 30
seconds. That is less than 2 AH reduction in capacity. Add a 2 to 3%
reduction for self discharge over a month at the dock. Call it another 4 AH
on a typical  group 24 battery. So you need to put around 6 AH back into
your start battery while the engine runs, and the battery is probably at
around 95% charge when you start out, so there is high resistance to
charging and reduced acceptance rate. You probably need to run the engine
for 20 or 30 minutes to recharge the start battery.

 

All your boat systems except the bilge pump are turned off when at the dock,
except when you are on vacation. So you only have to replace the loss from
self discharge in your house bank. Two golf cart batteries is probably
around 275 AH capacity, times 3% per month, is around 8-9 AH. Your OEM
alternator is probably able to accomplish that while you motor out and raise
the sails.

 

I'm sort of surprised that the house bank was able to run your refrigeration
for 5 days. Most refrigeration systems seem to use 45 or more AH in a 24
hour period. But then, you are in the great white north so maybe the lower
average temperature differential reduces the cooling load and thus the
current draw.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

Hi Rich

 

I am not sure what my alternator output rating is but my ammeter never shows
more than 60 and even that is not for long as it settles out to between 15
and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of steaming.  If I switch from
one battery bank to the other during steaming I can sometimes notice a
slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a bit) but even that is
momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6 volt deep cycle
batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24 deep
cycle.they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and I
run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember to
manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and
now can't remember which wires go where to reconnect it.Last season I left
the boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off
the fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power
left in the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added
insulation around the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my
start battery and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some
sailors use more power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like
a pre

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? comment about alternators

2013-12-18 Thread Rich Knowles
If your boat is wired correctly, the battery charger feeds the battery and all 
your DC loads will function exactly as normal. 

I suggest you, and anyone else who doesn't have one,  purchase a copy of Nigel 
Calder's Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual. An excellent all round 
resource. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QA720O

Rich

> On Dec 18, 2013, at 11:33, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> So here's a dumb question?
> If I'm on shore power is just my battery charger and the DC outlets using 
> shore power or can I run the cabin lights and radio on the DC system? and if 
> so how?
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:
>> Dwight;
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Rich and I were addressing the power systems for a boat used for long term 
>> live aboard cruising. IIRC you are on a dock and use your boat for daysails 
>> and the occasional weekend or vacation cruise. For than situation, the OEM 
>> alternator is just fine.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Starting your engine draws somewhere around 200 amps for something around 30 
>> seconds. That is less than 2 AH reduction in capacity. Add a 2 to 3% 
>> reduction for self discharge over a month at the dock. Call it another 4 AH 
>> on a typical  group 24 battery. So you need to put around 6 AH back into 
>> your start battery while the engine runs, and the battery is probably at 
>> around 95% charge when you start out, so there is high resistance to 
>> charging and reduced acceptance rate. You probably need to run the engine 
>> for 20 or 30 minutes to recharge the start battery.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> All your boat systems except the bilge pump are turned off when at the dock, 
>> except when you are on vacation. So you only have to replace the loss from 
>> self discharge in your house bank. Two golf cart batteries is probably 
>> around 275 AH capacity, times 3% per month, is around 8-9 AH. Your OEM 
>> alternator is probably able to accomplish that while you motor out and raise 
>> the sails.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’m sort of surprised that the house bank was able to run your refrigeration 
>> for 5 days. Most refrigeration systems seem to use 45 or more AH in a 24 
>> hour period. But then, you are in the great white north so maybe the lower 
>> average temperature differential reduces the cooling load and thus the 
>> current draw.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 9:39 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Hi Rich
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I am not sure what my alternator output rating is but my ammeter never shows 
>> more than 60 and even that is not for long as it settles out to between 15 
>> and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of steaming.  If I switch from 
>> one battery bank to the other during steaming I can sometimes notice a 
>> slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a bit) but even that is 
>> momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6 volt deep cycle 
>> batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24 deep 
>> cycle…they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let 
>> me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and I 
>> run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember to 
>> manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and 
>> now can’t remember which wires go where to reconnect it…Last season I left 
>> the boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off 
>> the fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power 
>> left in the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added 
>> insulation around the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my 
>> start battery and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some 
>> sailors use more power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like 
>> a pretty high charge rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on the 
>> cells?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
>> Knowles
>> Sent: December 18, 2013 8:38 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And to increase the presumptuous factor:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Curtis
Yea My boat is small. No A/C no Refg / freezer no microwave. Ni Invert-er.
Just basic stuff.


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:55 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

>  Rick, I seem to remember that Curtis has a 30. He couldn't have near the
> needs you do on your 38 or he would be all batteries in that smaller boat.
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Rick Brass 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:45 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>  Curtis;
>
>
>
> At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
> horse.
>
>
>
> If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where
> you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
> every day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on
> board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw.
> Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment
> like radio or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a
> microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries.
>
>
>
> Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure
> out how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put
> them. My average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I
> plan to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended
> periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH
> capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for
> 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting
> battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to
> power the head and the anchor windlass.
>
>
>
> The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I
> have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a
> solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to
> install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I’m hooked
> to shore power or running the engine.
>
>
>
> To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
> alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time – which is OK
> when I’m traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
> to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
> generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.
>
>
>
> As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you
> will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have
> installed for cruising.
>
>
>
> You said you had an “OEM” battery charger installed. Probably not really
> OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money
> on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries,
> and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> Curtis
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first
> post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged
> while sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off
> for some extended cruising.
>
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me
> a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
>
> Sorry for the confusion.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
> different answers.
>
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big bo

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Gary Nylander
Rick, I seem to remember that Curtis has a 30. He couldn't have near the needs 
you do on your 38 or he would be all batteries in that smaller boat.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Brass 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:45 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


  Curtis;

   

  At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the horse.

   

  If your intent is extended cruising - particularly offshore cruising where 
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries) 
every day - you will first need to think about the systems you have on board 
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar? 
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio or 
TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a 
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.

   

  Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out 
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My 
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run 
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my house 
bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That gives 230 
usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for 2 days between charges. In 
addition I have a group 29 marine starting battery as a second bank, and a deep 
cycle group 24 under the v-berth to power the head and the anchor windlass.

   

  The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I have 
an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a solar 
charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to install an 
ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I'm hooked to shore power 
or running the engine.

   

  To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp 
alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time - which is OK when 
I'm traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan to 
install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind generator as 
well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.

   

  As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you will 
be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have installed for 
cruising.

   

  You said you had an "OEM" battery charger installed. Probably not really OEM, 
but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on the 
other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and worry 
about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.

   

   

  Rick Brass

  Washington, NC

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
  Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

   

  I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I 
was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while 
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for some 
extended cruising. 

  I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. 
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a 
charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 

  Sorry for the confusion.

   

   

   

   

  On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

  Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is 
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of capacity. 
 This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had any of us 
realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self discharging 
during winter storage you would have received drastically different answers.  

  For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent 
over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have 
possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning feature.  
10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley, Schumacher, 
Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and boat stores.  
I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective de-sulfating 
feature than any of the others. 

  Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.  
This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic corrosion.

  What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?

  Josh Muckley

  On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:

  Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
   

  Sorry I posted the wrong model.

   

 

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Della Barba, Joe
To add to the mix, any Atomic-4 powered boat is running a 1:1 pulley ratio. 
This results in a max of around 60-80 amps even if you add a 500 amp alternator 
and no charging at all at idle. One project I have on the back burner is 
fabbing a bracket to run off a crank pulley and get a better ratio. Adding 
solar kind of put that back a bit – amazing how much good even 25 watts does.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Frederick G Street
Also remember that putting a huge alternator on a diesel like ours can present 
excessive side-loading to the shaft bearings, reducing their life.  So try to 
size appropriately for your battery bank AND engine hp.  Going too big can be 
bad for your engine.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 18, 2013, at 9:18 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:

> Excellent comments Rich.
>  
> I would add that one needs to confirm that the power take off available for 
> driving a proposed larger alternator can handle the increased load. This is 
> especially true for engines where the power take off is through a gear train, 
> and not directly off one end of the crankshaft. In these circumstances it may 
> not be just a question of how large a fraction of the engine's output do you 
> want to direct to the alternator. The maximum load presented by the proposed 
> alternator, plus the water pump load, must not exceed the power take off 
> design limits. This is at least an issue with the Yanmar YSE, YSB, and YSM 
> series of engines. I don't know if there are any other common engine with 
> designs similar in that respect, but it is worth checking before going and an 
> buying too large an alternator for a specific engine. Yes the specific 
> engines I mentioned are smaller than 20-35 HP, but there are many of us that 
> do have em. An alternator that can actually deliver 100 amps will need around 
> 3 horsepower to drive it.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Rich Knowles
The drive belt is as much a limiting factor as anything else. I've been using 
an adapted Delco 105A alternator for at least 12 years with no bad outcomes to 
my Yanmar 3QM30 other than a new belt every year or so. Also I seldom see the 
charge rate exceed 70A. 

Rich

> On Dec 18, 2013, at 11:18, Steve Thomas  wrote:
> 
> Excellent comments Rich.
>  
> I would add that one needs to confirm that the power take off available for 
> driving a proposed larger alternator can handle the increased load. This is 
> especially true for engines where the power take off is through a gear train, 
> and not directly off one end of the crankshaft. In these circumstances it may 
> not be just a question of how large a fraction of the engine's output do you 
> want to direct to the alternator. The  maximum load presented by the proposed 
> alternator, plus the water pump load, must not exceed the power take off 
> design limits. This is at least an issue with the Yanmar YSE, YSB, and YSM 
> series of engines. I don't know if there are any other common engine with 
> designs similar in that respect, but it is worth checking before going and an 
> buying too large an alternator  for a specific engine. Yes the specific 
> engines I mentioned are smaller than 20-35 HP, but there are many of us that 
> do have em. An alternator that can actually deliver 100 amps will need around 
> 3 horsepower to drive it.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
> Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 7:38 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
> 
> And to increase the presumptuous factor:
> 
> The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small boat 
> engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage 
> output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined for use in 
> small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that application. 
> For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar 
> and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, 
> those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient 
> and appropriate as higher power units with multi stage regulators. 
> 
> For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system 
> should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This will 
> involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, 
> taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book 
> into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well. There are a 
> number of external regulators available that should be considered for 
> installation as part of the new system. A new alternator with a multi-step 
> regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time needed to replenish 
> the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators and solar panels are 
> important for long range travels as well to further reduce the dependency on 
> the engine. 
> 
> For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of 
> batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the 
> fact that a 50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly 
> linear rate which will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%. 
> Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first 
> 30%. This will vary depending on battery type and condition, so my 30% figure 
> is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.
> 
> A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to 
> sustain loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices 
> operating while the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to 
> replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use 
> should be chosen. There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 
> 
> I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from 
> the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be 
> avoided. 
> 
> As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 
> 
> It's snowing again. G!
> 
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO - LF38
> Halifax, NS
> 
> 
>> On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:
>> 
>> Curtis;
>> At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the 
>> horse.
>> If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where 
>> youwill not be using y

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? comment about alternators

2013-12-18 Thread Curtis
So here's a dumb question?
If I'm on shore power is just my battery charger and the DC outlets using
shore power or can I run the cabin lights and radio on the DC system? and
if so how?



On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Rick Brass wrote:

> Dwight;
>
>
>
> Rich and I were addressing the power systems for a boat used for long term
> live aboard cruising. IIRC you are on a dock and use your boat for daysails
> and the occasional weekend or vacation cruise. For than situation, the OEM
> alternator is just fine.
>
>
>
> Starting your engine draws somewhere around 200 amps for something around
> 30 seconds. That is less than 2 AH reduction in capacity. Add a 2 to 3%
> reduction for self discharge over a month at the dock. Call it another 4 AH
> on a typical  group 24 battery. So you need to put around 6 AH back into
> your start battery while the engine runs, and the battery is probably at
> around 95% charge when you start out, so there is high resistance to
> charging and reduced acceptance rate. You probably need to run the engine
> for 20 or 30 minutes to recharge the start battery.
>
>
>
> All your boat systems except the bilge pump are turned off when at the
> dock, except when you are on vacation. So you only have to replace the loss
> from self discharge in your house bank. Two golf cart batteries is probably
> around 275 AH capacity, times 3% per month, is around 8-9 AH. Your OEM
> alternator is probably able to accomplish that while you motor out and
> raise the sails.
>
>
>
> I’m sort of surprised that the house bank was able to run your
> refrigeration for 5 days. Most refrigeration systems seem to use 45 or more
> AH in a 24 hour period. But then, you are in the great white north so maybe
> the lower average temperature differential reduces the cooling load and
> thus the current draw.
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> dwight
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 18, 2013 9:39 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> Hi Rich
>
>
>
> I am not sure what my alternator output rating is but my ammeter never
> shows more than 60 and even that is not for long as it settles out to
> between 15 and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of steaming.  If I
> switch from one battery bank to the other during steaming I can sometimes
> notice a slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a bit) but even
> that is momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6 volt deep cycle
> batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24 deep
> cycle…they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
> me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and I
> run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember to
> manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat
> and now can’t remember which wires go where to reconnect it…Last season I
> left the boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to
> turn off the fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was
> still power left in the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no
> added insulation around the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine
> from my start battery and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably
> some sailors use more power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems
> like a pretty high charge rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on
> the cells?
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Rich Knowles
> *Sent:* December 18, 2013 8:38 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> And to increase the presumptuous factor:
>
>
>
> The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
> boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
> voltage output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined
> for use in small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that
> application. For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick
> notes, radar and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods
> between charges, those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and
> certainly not as efficient and appropriate as higher power units with multi
> stage regulators.
>
>
>
> For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical
> system should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system.
> This will involve repla

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations? comment about alternators

2013-12-18 Thread Rick Brass
Dwight;

 

Rich and I were addressing the power systems for a boat used for long term
live aboard cruising. IIRC you are on a dock and use your boat for daysails
and the occasional weekend or vacation cruise. For than situation, the OEM
alternator is just fine.

 

Starting your engine draws somewhere around 200 amps for something around 30
seconds. That is less than 2 AH reduction in capacity. Add a 2 to 3%
reduction for self discharge over a month at the dock. Call it another 4 AH
on a typical  group 24 battery. So you need to put around 6 AH back into
your start battery while the engine runs, and the battery is probably at
around 95% charge when you start out, so there is high resistance to
charging and reduced acceptance rate. You probably need to run the engine
for 20 or 30 minutes to recharge the start battery.

 

All your boat systems except the bilge pump are turned off when at the dock,
except when you are on vacation. So you only have to replace the loss from
self discharge in your house bank. Two golf cart batteries is probably
around 275 AH capacity, times 3% per month, is around 8-9 AH. Your OEM
alternator is probably able to accomplish that while you motor out and raise
the sails.

 

I'm sort of surprised that the house bank was able to run your refrigeration
for 5 days. Most refrigeration systems seem to use 45 or more AH in a 24
hour period. But then, you are in the great white north so maybe the lower
average temperature differential reduces the cooling load and thus the
current draw.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

Hi Rich

 

I am not sure what my alternator output rating is but my ammeter never shows
more than 60 and even that is not for long as it settles out to between 15
and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of steaming.  If I switch from
one battery bank to the other during steaming I can sometimes notice a
slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a bit) but even that is
momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6 volt deep cycle
batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24 deep
cycle.they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and I
run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember to
manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and
now can't remember which wires go where to reconnect it.Last season I left
the boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off
the fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power
left in the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added
insulation around the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my
start battery and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some
sailors use more power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like
a pretty high charge rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on the
cells?

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: December 18, 2013 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

And to increase the presumptuous factor:

 

The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
voltage output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined
for use in small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that
application. For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick
notes, radar and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods
between charges, those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and
certainly not as efficient and appropriate as higher power units with multi
stage regulators. 

 

For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system
should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This
will involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be
fitted, taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of
pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well.
There are a number of external regulators available that should be
considered for installation as part of the new system. A new alternator with
a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time needed
to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators and solar
panels are important for long range travels as well to further reduce the
dependency on the engine. 

 

For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of
batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the
fact that a 50% discharged battery w

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Steve Thomas
Excellent comments Rich. 

I would add that one needs to confirm that the power take off available for 
driving a proposed larger alternator can handle the increased load. This is 
especially true for engines where the power take off is through a gear train, 
and not directly off one end of the crankshaft. In these circumstances it may 
not be just a question of how large a fraction of the engine's output do you 
want to direct to the alternator. The maximum load presented by the proposed 
alternator, plus the water pump load, must not exceed the power take off design 
limits. This is at least an issue with the Yanmar YSE, YSB, and YSM series of 
engines. I don't know if there are any other common engine with designs similar 
in that respect, but it is worth checking before going and an buying too large 
an alternator for a specific engine. Yes the specific engines I mentioned are 
smaller than 20-35 HP, but there are many of us that do have em. An alternator 
that can actually deliver 100 amps will need around 3 horsepower to drive it. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 7:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


And to increase the presumptuous factor:


The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small boat 
engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage output 
regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined for use in small 
motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that application. For our 
use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar and 
refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, those 
alternators are bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient and 
appropriate as higher power units with multi stage regulators. 


For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system 
should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This will 
involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, 
taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book into 
account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well. There are a number 
of external regulators available that should be considered for installation as 
part of the new system. A new alternator with a multi-step regulator will 
considerably reduce the engine run time needed to replenish the batteries. 
Other devices such as wind generators and solar panels are important for long 
range travels as well to further reduce the dependency on the engine. 


For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of batteries 
to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the fact that a 
50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly linear rate which 
will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%. Trying to achieve 
the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first 30%. This will vary 
depending on battery type and condition, so my 30% figure is somewhat 
arbitrary, but fairly realistic.


A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to sustain 
loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices operating while 
the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to replenish the 
batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use should be chosen. 
There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 


I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from 
the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be 
avoided. 


As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 


It's snowing again. G!


Rich Knowles
INDIGO - LF38
Halifax, NS




On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:


  Curtis;



  At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the horse.



  If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where 
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries) 
every day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on board 
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar? 
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio or 
TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a 
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.



  Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out 
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My 
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run 
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my house 
bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 46

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread David
When I "re-alternatored" my boat with a smart charger etc. I sized the 
alternator so as to not put too much drag on the engine.  I sized my at 80 amp 
for a 33 hp diesel.  I estimate I lose 3hp when full on charging.  Any more, 
and you start losing, in my opinion, too much HP.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 10:38:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?























Hi Rich

 

I am not sure what my alternator output
rating is but my ammeter never shows more than 60 and even that is not for long
as it settles out to between 15 and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of
steaming.  If I switch from one battery bank to the other during steaming
I can sometimes notice a slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a
bit) but even that is momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6
volt deep cycle batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24
deep cycle…they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and
I run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember
to manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and
now can’t remember which wires go where to reconnect it…Last season I left the
boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off the
fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power left in
the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added insulation around
the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my start battery
and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some sailors use more
power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like a pretty high charge
rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on the cells?

 

 









From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Rich Knowles

Sent: December 18, 2013 8:38 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?



 



And to increase the
presumptuous factor:





 





The alternators that were
supplied as original equipment with most small boat engines until recently were
from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage output regulators. A good
percentage of the engines were destined for use in small motor vessels and
these alternators were adequate for that application. For our use, which sees
greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar and refrigeration, and
lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, those alternators are
bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient and appropriate as
higher power units with multi stage regulators. 





 





For sailing vessels, a
central component of optimizing the electrical system should be upgrading the
generating capacity of the charging system. This will involve replacing the
alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, taking physical 
restrictions,
drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP
engines, around 100A works well. There are a number of external regulators
available that should be considered for installation as part of the new system.
A new alternator with a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the
engine run time needed to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind
generators and solar panels are important for long range travels as well to
further reduce the dependency on the engine. 





 





For calculation purposes,
I generally consider the usable capacity of batteries to be 30% rather than 50%
of rated capacity. This stems from the fact that a 50% discharged battery will
charge to around 80% at a fairly linear rate which will drop significantly as
the state of charge nears 100%. Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long
time compared to the first 30%. This will vary depending on battery type and
condition, so my 30% figure is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.





 





A shore power fed battery
charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to sustain loads from refrigeration,
lighting and entertainment devices operating while the boat is alongside, and
also provide enough power to replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit
designed for marine use should be chosen. There are lots of good marine
chargers on the market. 





 





I note that non-marine AC
chargers may not completely isolate the input from the output, a potentially
dangerous situation on the water, and should be avoided. 





 





As Rick notes, designing
an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 





 





It's snowing again.
G!





 





Rich Knowles





INDIGO - LF38





Halifax,
 NS









 























___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
Cn

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Rick Brass
Rich;

 

Thanks for the comments on the alternator. You’re right that generation 
capacity is an important consideration depending on how you cruise.

 

My cruising is coastal, along the ICW with engine on at least half the time, 
then long periods at anchor. I’ve decided that my engine alternator is 
sufficient when under weigh, but I hate to need to run the engine at all when 
at anchor. So I’ve invested in both Blue Sea and Link battery monitors to help 
me stretch the time between recharge at anchor, and contemplate solar and/or 
wind power installations to keep engine use down.

 

Maybe I won something in the lottery last night that will let me pay for it.

 

I have sympathy for your reaction to the snow. Winter Sucks! More than old 
sails.

 

Yesterday it was 67. Last night in the low 30s, going to 48 later today. 
They’re forecasting 80 on Saturday and Sunday and then back to 50 next week. I 
wish it would just even out to a nice steady 60-65. Then I could take down the 
Christmas lights on the boat and go sailing.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 7:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

And to increase the presumptuous factor:

 

The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small boat 
engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage output 
regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined for use in small 
motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that application. For our 
use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar and 
refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, those 
alternators are bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient and 
appropriate as higher power units with multi stage regulators. 

 

For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system 
should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This will 
involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, 
taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book into 
account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well. There are a number 
of external regulators available that should be considered for installation as 
part of the new system. A new alternator with a multi-step regulator will 
considerably reduce the engine run time needed to replenish the batteries. 
Other devices such as wind generators and solar panels are important for long 
range travels as well to further reduce the dependency on the engine. 

 

For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of batteries 
to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the fact that a 
50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly linear rate which 
will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%. Trying to achieve 
the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first 30%. This will vary 
depending on battery type and condition, so my 30% figure is somewhat 
arbitrary, but fairly realistic.

 

A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to sustain 
loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices operating while 
the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to replenish the 
batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use should be chosen. 
There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 

 

I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from 
the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be 
avoided. 

 

As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 

 

It's snowing again. G!

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 


On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

Curtis;

 

At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the horse.

 

If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where you 
will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries) every 
day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on board and how 
much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar? Autopilot? 
What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio or TV?  Small 
things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a shocking amount 
of power out of your batteries.

 

Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out 
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My 
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run 
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my house 
bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That gives 230 
usable AH (50% discharge) and s

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread dwight
Hi Rich

 

I am not sure what my alternator output rating is but my ammeter never shows
more than 60 and even that is not for long as it settles out to between 15
and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of steaming.  If I switch from
one battery bank to the other during steaming I can sometimes notice a
slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a bit) but even that is
momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6 volt deep cycle
batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24 deep
cycle.they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and I
run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember to
manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and
now can't remember which wires go where to reconnect it.Last season I left
the boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off
the fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power
left in the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added
insulation around the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my
start battery and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some
sailors use more power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like
a pretty high charge rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on the
cells?

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: December 18, 2013 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

And to increase the presumptuous factor:

 

The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
voltage output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined
for use in small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that
application. For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick
notes, radar and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods
between charges, those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and
certainly not as efficient and appropriate as higher power units with multi
stage regulators. 

 

For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system
should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This
will involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be
fitted, taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of
pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well.
There are a number of external regulators available that should be
considered for installation as part of the new system. A new alternator with
a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time needed
to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators and solar
panels are important for long range travels as well to further reduce the
dependency on the engine. 

 

For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of
batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the
fact that a 50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly
linear rate which will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%.
Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first
30%. This will vary depending on battery type and condition, so my 30%
figure is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.

 

A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to
sustain loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices
operating while the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to
replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use
should be chosen. There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 

 

I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from
the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be
avoided. 

 

As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is
complex. 

 

It's snowing again. G!

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 





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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Curtis
Thanks'


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 9:32 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:

> I have one Curtis. I'll send it along later today.
>
> Rich
>
> On Dec 18, 2013, at 10:19, Curtis  wrote:
>
> In doing my research hoping to find a Energy Budget work sheet in excel
> format. This way I could plug in the cost of each of my power using pieces
> and see what it comes up with.
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Rich Knowles
I have one Curtis. I'll send it along later today. 

Rich

> On Dec 18, 2013, at 10:19, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> In doing my research hoping to find a Energy Budget work sheet in excel 
> format. This way I could plug in the cost of each of my power using pieces 
> and see what it comes up with.
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Curtis
need to think about the systems you
>> have on board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major
>> draw. Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for
>> entertainment like radio or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee
>> maker or a microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries.
>>
>>
>>
>> Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure
>> out how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put
>> them. My average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I
>> plan to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended
>> periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH
>> capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for
>> 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting
>> battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to
>> power the head and the anchor windlass.
>>
>>
>>
>> The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I
>> have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a
>> solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to
>> install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I’m hooked
>> to shore power or running the engine.
>>
>>
>>
>> To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
>> alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time – which is OK
>> when I’m traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
>> to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
>> generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.
>>
>>
>>
>> As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you
>> will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have
>> installed for cruising.
>>
>>
>>
>> You said you had an “OEM” battery charger installed. Probably not really
>> OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money
>> on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries,
>> and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List 
>> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
>> *On Behalf Of *Curtis
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first
>> post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged
>> while sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off
>> for some extended cruising.
>>
>> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank
>> charger. This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will
>> give me a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
>>
>> Sorry for the confusion.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
>> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
>> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
>> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
>> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
>> different answers.
>>
>> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to
>> prevent over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I
>> would have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a
>> conditioning feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.
>> Stanley, Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big
>> box, auto, and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has
>> a more effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
>>
>> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the
>> batteries.  This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and
>> galvanic corrosion.
>>
>> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>>

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Joel Aronson
Nigel Calders book has a list.

Joel

On Wednesday, December 18, 2013, Curtis wrote:

> Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
> principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep in
> mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that before
> from people starting out. HAHAh. Well wet me see what it looks like.
>
> 1) AM/FM Radio   *4 hr a week*
>
> 2) ST4000 AUTO helm *8 hrs a day*
>
> 3) Garmin echo50s (GPS) *8 hrs a day*
>
> 4) Bow and stern running lights   *8 hrs a week*
>
> 5) Spreader lights  *Almost never*
>
> 6) Mast head anchor light *(12 hours a day) LED*
>
> 7) Cabin lights *(8 hours a day) LED*
>
> 8) VHF Radio “Hand Held” *8 hrs a day*
>
> 9) VHF fixed mount *8 hrs a day scan mode weather alert*
>
> 10) Ray marine gauge “ Depth” *8 hrs a day*
>
> 11) Ray marine gauge “Wind” *8 hrs a day*
>
> 12 Ray marine gauges
>
> 13) IPOD for movies *2 hrs a day*
>
> 14) Cell phones 2 “1 droid”  “1 I phone”
>
>
>
> We have no refrigerator
>
> We have no t/v at this time
>
> Toilet is a manual
>
> In doing my research hoping to find a Energy Budget work sheet in excel
> format. This way I could plug in the cost of each of my power using pieces
> and see what it comes up with.
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>
> And to increase the presumptuous factor:
>
> The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
> boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
> voltage output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined
> for use in small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that
> application. For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick
> notes, radar and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods
> between charges, those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and
> certainly not as efficient and appropriate as higher power units with multi
> stage regulators.
>
> For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical
> system should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system.
> This will involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can
> be fitted, taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of
> pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works
> well. There are a number of external regulators available that should be
> considered for installation as part of the new system. A new alternator
> with a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time
> needed to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators
> and solar panels are important for long range travels as well to further
> reduce the dependency on the engine.
>
> For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of
> batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the
> fact that a 50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly
> linear rate which will drop significantly as the state of charge nears
> 100%. Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long time compared to the
> first 30%. This will vary depending on battery type and condition, so my
> 30% figure is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.
>
> A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to
> sustain loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices
> operating while the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to
> replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use
> should be chosen. There are lots of good marine chargers on the market.
>
> I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input
> from the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should
> be avoided.
>
> As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is
> complex.
>
> It's snowing again. G!
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO - LF38
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:
>
> Curtis;
>
>
>
> At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
> horse.
>
>
>
> If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where
> you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
> every day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on
> board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw.
> Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment
> like radio or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a
> microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries.
>
>
>
> On
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Curtis
to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended
> periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH
> capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for
> 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting
> battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to
> power the head and the anchor windlass.
>
>
>
> The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I
> have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a
> solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to
> install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I’m hooked
> to shore power or running the engine.
>
>
>
> To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
> alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time – which is OK
> when I’m traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
> to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
> generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.
>
>
>
> As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you
> will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have
> installed for cruising.
>
>
>
> You said you had an “OEM” battery charger installed. Probably not really
> OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money
> on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries,
> and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Curtis
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first
> post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged
> while sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off
> for some extended cruising.
>
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me
> a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
>
> Sorry for the confusion.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
> different answers.
>
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
> and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
> effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
>
> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the
> batteries.  This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and
> galvanic corrosion.
>
> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
> *Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128*
>
>
>
> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>
>
>
>
>
> Wal-mart
>
> $66.48
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
>
> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick d

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-18 Thread Rich Knowles
harger installed. Probably not really OEM, 
> but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on the 
> other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and worry 
> about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>  
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I 
> was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while 
> sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for 
> some extended cruising. 
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. 
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a 
> charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 
> Sorry for the confusion.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is 
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of 
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had 
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self 
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically 
> different answers. 
> 
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent 
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have 
> possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning 
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley, 
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and 
> boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective 
> de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
> 
> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.  
> This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic 
> corrosion.
> 
> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 
> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>  
> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>  
>  
> Wal-mart
> $66.48
>  
> 
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will 
> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
> 
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> connected long term.
> 
> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread bobmor99 .
For the past 2-3 years I've had a Guest 10 Amp charger keeping a pair of
lead acid batteries topped up at the dock. It too is a solid state design
which is great; if not bullet-proof, for sure waterproof.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289963&id=1450046

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:41 AM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

>   I really like the new solid state units, and so far no problems.
>
>
> Wal
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Rick Brass
Curtis;

 

At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
horse.

 

If your intent is extended cruising - particularly offshore cruising where
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
every day - you will first need to think about the systems you have on board
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar?
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio
or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.

 

Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my
house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That
gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for 2 days between
charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting battery as a second
bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to power the head and the
anchor windlass.

 

The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I have
an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a solar
charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to install
an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I'm hooked to shore
power or running the engine.

 

To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time - which is OK
when I'm traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.

 

As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you will
be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have installed
for cruising.

 

You said you had an "OEM" battery charger installed. Probably not really
OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on
the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and
worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post
I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for
some extended cruising. 

I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a
charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 

Sorry for the confusion.

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
different answers.  

For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. 

Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.
This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic
corrosion.

What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?

Josh Muckley

On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:


Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128


 

Sorry I posted the wrong model.

 

 

Wal-mart

$66.48

 

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:

Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.

Bill Bina



On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:

After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Jake Brodersen
Yes, this is the one keeping my Harley warm during the cold winter.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

That's work as a maintainer over winter.

 

Rich







 

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread dwight
agree

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: December 17, 2013 11:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing 
will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.

Bill Bina

On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> connected long term.
>
> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
>


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6428 - Release Date: 12/17/13


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Curtis
Just trying to get all the systems up and working with bugs shook out be
for then. I also would like to spend the money while I have it.


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 2:37 PM, dwight  wrote:

> agree
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Bina
> Sent: December 17, 2013 11:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing
> will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> > After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
> >
> > Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> > This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> > Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> > battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> > effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> > (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> > the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> > vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> > connected long term.
> >
> > I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
> >
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6428 - Release Date: 12/17/13
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Rich Knowles
There will be plenty of new units on the market by 2018. 

Rich

> On Dec 17, 2013, at 14:15, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I 
> was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while 
> sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for 
> some extended cruising. 
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. 
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a 
> charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 
> Sorry for the confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is 
>> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of 
>> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had 
>> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self 
>> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically 
>> different answers. 
>> 
>> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent 
>> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would 
>> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning 
>> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley, 
>> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, 
>> and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more 
>> effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. 
>> 
>> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.  
>> This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic 
>> corrosion.
>> 
>> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> 
>>> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>>> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Wal-mart
>>> $66.48
>>> 
>>> 
 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
 Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
 charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will 
 barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
 
 Bill Bina
 
 
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
> 
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> connected long term.
> 
> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, 
>>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Curtis
I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post
I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for
some extended cruising.
I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me
a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
Sorry for the confusion.





On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
> different answers.
>
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
> and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
> effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
>
> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the
> batteries.  This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and
> galvanic corrosion.
>
> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>
> Josh Muckley
> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>
>> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>>
>> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>>
>>
>> Wal-mart
>> $66.48
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina wrote:
>>
>>> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
>>> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
>>> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>>>
>>> Bill Bina
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>>>
 After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

 Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
 Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
 battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
 effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
 (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
 the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
 vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
 connected long term.

 I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.


>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Josh Muckley
Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
different answers.

For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.

Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.
This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic
corrosion.

What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?

Josh Muckley
On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:

> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>
> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>
>
> Wal-mart
> $66.48
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
>
>> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
>> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
>> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>>
>> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>>
>>> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>>>
>>> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
>>> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
>>> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
>>> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
>>> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
>>> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
>>> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
>>> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
>>> connected long term.
>>>
>>> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Rich Knowles
That's work as a maintainer over winter.

Rich







On Dec 17, 2013, at 11:29 AM, Curtis  wrote:

Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128


Sorry I posted the wrong model.


Wal-mart
$66.48


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. 
You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge 
an 8 volt motorcycle battery.

Bill Bina


On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.



___
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-- 
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really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Rich Knowles
Curtis:

That battery charge will not do much at all for you. It's an 8 V unit And you 
need a 12 V charger. 


Rich







On Dec 17, 2013, at 10:47 AM, Curtis  wrote:

After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.




On 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> Curtis,
> 
> 
> 
> A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
> charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
> cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
> your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
> will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
> price.
> 
> 
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> CW,
> 
> I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
> here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
> be
> headed south "of Course"
> 
> Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
> replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
> ready for cruising.
> 
> Thanx for the advise guys.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Curtis
Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128

Sorry I posted the wrong model.


Wal-mart
$66.48


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:

> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>
>> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>>
>> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
>> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
>> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
>> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
>> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
>> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
>> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
>> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
>> connected long term.
>>
>> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Bill Bina
Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing 
will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.


Bill Bina

On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:

After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.




___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Richard N. Bush
Curtis, where did you buy the charger unit? approximate cost? Thanks


Richard
1985 37; on the hard; an waitin' for launch

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Curtis 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Tue, Dec 17, 2013 9:47 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
his is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
ender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
attery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
ffects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
he charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
ehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
onnected long term.
I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.


n 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
 Curtis,



 A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
 charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
 cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
 your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
 will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
 price.



 Jake



 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
 Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?



 CW,

 I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
 here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
 be
 headed south "of Course"

 Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
 replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
 ready for cruising.

 Thanx for the advise guys.

 Cheers





- 
Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
hould really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
___
his List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
ttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com
nc-l...@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Wally Bryant
I recently installed a ProMariner to replace my failed Xantrex Freedom 
charger.  I really like the new solid state units, and so far no problems.


BTW, if anyone replaces an old Freedom Marine unit, I'd recommend taking 
the cover off and removing the integral Echo Charger(s.) It's the same 
as the stand alone unit, without the cover, and has the same wire harness.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Curtis
After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.




On 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> Curtis,
>
>
>
> A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
> charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
> cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
> your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
> will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
> price.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> CW,
>
> I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
> here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
> be
> headed south "of Course"
>
> Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
> replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
> ready for cruising.
>
> Thanx for the advise guys.
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-17 Thread Jake Brodersen
Curtis,

 

A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
price.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

CW,

I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will be
headed south "of Course"

Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
ready for cruising.

Thanx for the advise guys. 

Cheers

 

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Dennis C.
I also have a Xantrex Truecharge 20+.  Very reliable.

However, The key here is Xantrex vs Xantrex 2.  If it's a "2", run away.  Not 
the same by any means. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 5:15 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:
> 
> Curtis,
>  
> I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
> a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 
> 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton Va
>  
> 
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>  
> 
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
> volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
>  
> Capt, Curt  
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Rich Knowles
One thing to consider is mounting location. Regardless of make or model, the 
biggest killers of chargers and inverters are lack of ventilation and exposure 
to water or high humidity. 

Rich

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 20:54, "Dennis C."  wrote:
> 
> Xantrex used to be my choice. Apparently they're no longer reliable. 
> 
> Now I think my first choice would be Mastervolt.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Dec 16, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Curtis  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 
>> 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
>> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Capt, Curt  
>> 
>> -- 
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
>> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Dennis C.
Xantrex used to be my choice. Apparently they're no longer reliable. 

Now I think my first choice would be Mastervolt.  

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> 
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
> volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
> 
> Capt, Curt  
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 

___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread jtsails

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jake Brodersen 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 6:15 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


  Curtis,

   

  I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 12 
years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different. 

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  "Midnight Mistress"

  C&C 35 Mk-III

  Hampton Va

   



   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

   




  I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.

  Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.

  Thanks.

   

  Capt, Curt  

   

  -- 
  "Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat



--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread jtsails
I would also suggest looking Charles Industries chargers. Very well built units!
James
S/V Delaney
C&C 38
Oriental, NC
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jake Brodersen 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 6:15 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


  Curtis,

   

  I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 12 
years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different. 

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  "Midnight Mistress"

  C&C 35 Mk-III

  Hampton Va

   



   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

   




  I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.

  Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.

  Thanks.

   

  Capt, Curt  

   

  -- 
  "Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat



--


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Joe Della Barba
I have the old TruCharge 20 amp unit.  Works fine.  Not the same company really 
as the new ones 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 16, 2013, at 6:15 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> Curtis,
>  
> I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
> a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 
> 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton Va
>  
> 
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>  
> 
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
> volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
>  
> Capt, Curt  
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Curtis
CW,
I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
be headed south "of Course"
Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
ready for cruising.
Thanx for the advise guys.
Cheers



On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:

> Curtis,
>
>
>
> I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring
> and a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just
> over 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> Curtis
> *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
> *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
>
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2
> 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Capt, Curt
>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Jake Brodersen
Curtis,

 

I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring
and a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just
over 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different. 

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 




I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2
12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.

Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.

Thanks.

 

Capt, Curt  

 

-- 
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Joel Aronson
Curtis,

If I were cruising full time I would consider adding a 3rd battery.  You
might want a charger that can handle where you expect to be in 5 years in
terms of batteries.  Chances are the ones you have now will have been
replaced by 2018.
I've are read on SailNet that the new Xantrex are trouble - FWIW.

Joel


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> ProNautiP = ProMariner
> On Dec 16, 2013 4:18 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:
>
>> For built in chargers I've had a real bad expierience with 2 brand new
>> xantrex chargers.  I changed to the ProNautiP and haven't had ANY
>> problems.  The one I bought was a 60amp and could charge 3 different
>> batteries at the same time.  Set it up for AGM, Gel, Flooded...  $600.  It
>> doesn't look like it is available any more but the 50 and 30 amp are.
>> 30amp= ProNautic1230P = $500.
>>
>> I also had a real good expierience with a 40amp Stanley portable I got
>> from Lowes.  $100.  When the second xantrex died the Stanley got me through
>> the delivery and I still use it for all types of 12V battery projects.  It
>> also has an engine start mode, battery recondition, and alternator test
>> modes.
>>
>> Maximize your charging current but don't exceed the rate for the capacity
>> of your batteries.  If you pull in late for a night at a marina you want to
>> ensure that the batteries are full charged for an early departure.  I have
>> even pulled in for dinner and then anchored out.
>>
>> If I recall, flooded wet cells are limited to 25% of their rated
>> capacity, gel = 30%, AGM = 40%.  So from the sounds of it you probably have
>> about 200A/hr total capacity so you could go as large as a 50 amp charger.
>> This would ensure you could recharge in about 4 hours.  Also bear in mind
>> that in order to prolong the life of you batteries you should avoid
>> discharging more than 50% or below about 11.7v no load voltage.  With only
>> two batteries, it would be smart to keep them separated into a starting and
>> house battery.  This ensures that your house loads don't jeopardize your
>> ability to start the engine.
>>
>> All of this being said I've actually found that my time motoring to the
>> slip and anchorage were often sufficient to keep me topped off.  Your stock
>> alternator is probably 30-50amps.  You might just keep your costs down and
>> use a portable till you start cruising full time.
>>
>> Good luck.
>> Josh Muckley
>> On Dec 16, 2013 3:27 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep
>>> 2 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>>> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend
>>> sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Capt, Curt
>>>
>>> --
>>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Josh Muckley
ProNautiP = ProMariner
On Dec 16, 2013 4:18 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> For built in chargers I've had a real bad expierience with 2 brand new
> xantrex chargers.  I changed to the ProNautiP and haven't had ANY
> problems.  The one I bought was a 60amp and could charge 3 different
> batteries at the same time.  Set it up for AGM, Gel, Flooded...  $600.  It
> doesn't look like it is available any more but the 50 and 30 amp are.
> 30amp= ProNautic1230P = $500.
>
> I also had a real good expierience with a 40amp Stanley portable I got
> from Lowes.  $100.  When the second xantrex died the Stanley got me through
> the delivery and I still use it for all types of 12V battery projects.  It
> also has an engine start mode, battery recondition, and alternator test
> modes.
>
> Maximize your charging current but don't exceed the rate for the capacity
> of your batteries.  If you pull in late for a night at a marina you want to
> ensure that the batteries are full charged for an early departure.  I have
> even pulled in for dinner and then anchored out.
>
> If I recall, flooded wet cells are limited to 25% of their rated capacity,
> gel = 30%, AGM = 40%.  So from the sounds of it you probably have about
> 200A/hr total capacity so you could go as large as a 50 amp charger.  This
> would ensure you could recharge in about 4 hours.  Also bear in mind that
> in order to prolong the life of you batteries you should avoid discharging
> more than 50% or below about 11.7v no load voltage.  With only two
> batteries, it would be smart to keep them separated into a starting and
> house battery.  This ensures that your house loads don't jeopardize your
> ability to start the engine.
>
> All of this being said I've actually found that my time motoring to the
> slip and anchorage were often sufficient to keep me topped off.  Your stock
> alternator is probably 30-50amps.  You might just keep your costs down and
> use a portable till you start cruising full time.
>
> Good luck.
> Josh Muckley
> On Dec 16, 2013 3:27 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>
>>
>> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep
>> 2 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend
>> sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Capt, Curt
>>
>> --
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Josh Muckley
For built in chargers I've had a real bad expierience with 2 brand new
xantrex chargers.  I changed to the ProNautiP and haven't had ANY
problems.  The one I bought was a 60amp and could charge 3 different
batteries at the same time.  Set it up for AGM, Gel, Flooded...  $600.  It
doesn't look like it is available any more but the 50 and 30 amp are.
30amp= ProNautic1230P = $500.

I also had a real good expierience with a 40amp Stanley portable I got from
Lowes.  $100.  When the second xantrex died the Stanley got me through the
delivery and I still use it for all types of 12V battery projects.  It also
has an engine start mode, battery recondition, and alternator test modes.

Maximize your charging current but don't exceed the rate for the capacity
of your batteries.  If you pull in late for a night at a marina you want to
ensure that the batteries are full charged for an early departure.  I have
even pulled in for dinner and then anchored out.

If I recall, flooded wet cells are limited to 25% of their rated capacity,
gel = 30%, AGM = 40%.  So from the sounds of it you probably have about
200A/hr total capacity so you could go as large as a 50 amp charger.  This
would ensure you could recharge in about 4 hours.  Also bear in mind that
in order to prolong the life of you batteries you should avoid discharging
more than 50% or below about 11.7v no load voltage.  With only two
batteries, it would be smart to keep them separated into a starting and
house battery.  This ensures that your house loads don't jeopardize your
ability to start the engine.

All of this being said I've actually found that my time motoring to the
slip and anchorage were often sufficient to keep me topped off.  Your stock
alternator is probably 30-50amps.  You might just keep your costs down and
use a portable till you start cruising full time.

Good luck.
Josh Muckley
On Dec 16, 2013 3:27 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:

>
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2
> 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
>
> Capt, Curt
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Rich Knowles
Join the gang!

Rich

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 16:27, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> I am a weekend sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 
> 2018.

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Frederick G Street
On Dec 16, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Curtis  wrote:

> I am a weekend sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 
> 2018.

 Curt — does that mean you’ll be involved in lots of messy boat projects?   :^)

Take a look at the ProMariner chargers — I’d recommend a minimum 20-amp like 
this: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289965&id=1512392

You could go to 40-amp, but that might be overkill for your battery bank: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289967&id=1512432

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Hoyt, Mike
I curse all year round



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Curtis
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 4:27 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?



I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep
2 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend
sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
Thanks.

Capt, Curt  

-- 
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Briard6
Cursing full time in the  spring...???
 
 
In a message dated 12/16/2013 3:27:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cpt.b...@gmail.com writes:


I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep  2 
12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend  sailor 
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
Thanks.


Capt, Curt  


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service  and discipline, 
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas  Monsarrat




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Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

2013-12-16 Thread Curtis
I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2
12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
Thanks.

Capt, Curt

-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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