[Drakelist] Wanted: L-7
Hi All: I'm looking to buy a nice, clean L-7 in fully operational condition. I want to avoid the cost and risks associated with shipping, and so I'l like to find one within reasonable driving distance of NJ. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has one of these amps for sale. Thanx 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? A high price. :o) From: Kevin Elliott kg...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Kevin: Sorry for the glib answer I gave earlier, but the term collector quality is so subjective as to be completely meaningless without further definition on the part of the seller. Even grading standards are highly subjective, and you'll get four different grades from three different people who apply a standard to a given piece of gear. It's like asking what something is worth. BTW, I stand behind my intial answer! 73, Jim W2BVM From: Kevin Elliott kg...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem
Hi Ron: Yes, I’ve been to your site (excellent site BTW) and cleaned out the gunked up grease. The thing was a mess when I got it, with grease everywhere including the nylon gears and in between the dial plates. You’re looking at the “after” photos. Everything is nice and smooth now, except for the skipping. My setup is a bit different from the one in your photos. The “water mark” you referred to seems to be glue that holds the nylon gear onto the dial. 73, Jim W2BVM From: Ron [mailto:wd8...@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 6:28 AM To: Drake List; radio6...@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem Jim, I've never had the issues to know, but have you looked here? http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/PTO/Drake_PTO.htm Discusses binding PTO gears from someone oiling the nylon gear. It kind of looks like you have that going in your photos (brown water mark on your nylon gear). 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Mon, 10/10/11, Jim DiMauro radio6...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Jim DiMauro radio6...@yahoo.com Subject: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Monday, October 10, 2011, 10:15 PM Hi All: Looking for some help on a problem with the PTO dial mechanism of a nice R-4C that I bought some years ago but never put into service. The dials do not rotate at a constant speed, although I spin the knob at a constant speed. At a certain point in the rotation the dials abruptly speed up, then return to the slower speed until the whole works comes back 360 degrees around. Of course the dial calibration is constantly changing. Thinking it was nothing more than a dried out rubber bushing I changed it out, but it made no difference whatsoever. While observing the gear train in action I noticed that there are two gears sandwiched together, one smaller brass gear with a shaft bushing in the center, and the other a larger steel gear that rotates around the brass bushing (see photos 006 and 007 here: http://www.dcaconsulting.org/R4C_PTO/). The steel gears didn’t seem to rotate smoothly around the bushing, so I removed the dials and the gears and I can feel them bind at a certain point while rotating around the bushing that holds them together. I’m guessing that’s where my problem lies. If so, then I probably need to find a replacement gear. I’ve never been into a Drake gear train before, so I don’t know if I’m on the right track or not. Also for those of you who are familiar with the gear train, please look at all ten photos and let me know if anything obvious jumps out at you. One thing I noticed is that the kc dial disc doesn’t have a hub, but instead was just sandwiched against the brass disc on the hundreds kc dial. This is different from what I have seen in material available on the web. Any suggestions and advice would be appreciated. 73, Jim W2BVM -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem
Gary: You nailed it! Both gears move freely, except for the slight binding I mentioned in my original e-mail. I’ll have a go at securing the outer gear to the bushing. Now that you’ve described how it should work I’m confident that it will solve my problem. My concern is whether or not I’ll be able to do the fix. I’ll be leaving town this evening so I may not get to it before the weekend. I’ll be sure to post my results once I’m done with it. Not having a spare gear train to compare parts I’d have been scratching my head over this one for quite some time. Thanx much for taking the time and trouble to look into this for me. 73, Jim W2BVM From: Gary Poland [mailto:gpola...@cinci.rr.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 9:34 AM To: radio6...@yahoo.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem Jim, After re-reading your email I do believe your problem is with the anti-backlash gear/bushing shown in your pictures 6 and 7 as you suspected. The two anti-backlash gears are suppose to be tight and not easily move on the brass bushing. I think you could probably tighten them up by placing the assy in a vise and “ peening “ the aft gear at the brass bushing with something round such as a socket or tube. The other possibility would be maybe to try and solder the bushing to the aft gear. Like I said in my previous email the gears are suppose to be tight on the brass bushing but at least one gear would need to be slightly free to move for the anti-backlash to work. The gear assy I have both gears will move on the bushing with some force applied. 73, Gary ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem - FIXED
Gary: I decided that I couldn’t wait until the end of the week to try the fix, so I worked on it during lunch. I soldered the aft gear to the bushing as you had suggested. All fixed, works like new. Thanx again for your trouble and advice. Ron: Although the website you pointed me to didn’t lead to the fix, thank you for taking the time to respond with a good suggestion. BTW, the TR-7 you sold me in January 2004 has been running strong, and except for a bad PIN diode the radio hasn’t so much as hiccupped. 73, Jim W2BVM From: Gary Poland [mailto:gpola...@cinci.rr.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 9:34 AM To: radio6...@yahoo.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem Jim, After re-reading your email I do believe your problem is with the anti-backlash gear/bushing shown in your pictures 6 and 7 as you suspected. The two anti-backlash gears are suppose to be tight and not easily move on the brass bushing. I think you could probably tighten them up by placing the assy in a vise and “ peening “ the aft gear at the brass bushing with something round such as a socket or tube. The other possibility would be maybe to try and solder the bushing to the aft gear. Like I said in my previous email the gears are suppose to be tight on the brass bushing but at least one gear would need to be slightly free to move for the anti-backlash to work. The gear assy I have both gears will move on the bushing with some force applied. 73, Gary ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] R-4C PTO Dial Mechanism Problem
Hi All: Looking for some help on a problem with the PTO dial mechanism of a nice R-4C that I bought some years ago but never put into service. The dials do not rotate at a constant speed, although I spin the knob at a constant speed. At a certain point in the rotation the dials abruptly speed up, then return to the slower speed until the whole works comes back 360 degrees around. Of course the dial calibration is constantly changing. Thinking it was nothing more than a dried out rubber bushing I changed it out, but it made no difference whatsoever. While observing the gear train in action I noticed that there are two gears sandwiched together, one smaller brass gear with a shaft bushing in the center, and the other a larger steel gear that rotates around the brass bushing (see photos 006 and 007 here: http://www.dcaconsulting.org/R4C_PTO/). The steel gears didn't seem to rotate smoothly around the bushing, so I removed the dials and the gears and I can feel them bind at a certain point while rotating around the bushing that holds them together. I'm guessing that's where my problem lies. If so, then I probably need to find a replacement gear. I've never been into a Drake gear train before, so I don't know if I'm on the right track or not. Also for those of you who are familiar with the gear train, please look at all ten photos and let me know if anything obvious jumps out at you. One thing I noticed is that the kc dial disc doesn't have a hub, but instead was just sandwiched against the brass disc on the hundreds kc dial. This is different from what I have seen in material available on the web. Any suggestions and advice would be appreciated. 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] eBay - New used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods more at low prices
I'm tempted to post a question asking the seller who his drug dealer is, because he obviously deals in some mighty fine stuff. I'd also ask that if he gets his price to please tell me who bought it, because the buyer's dealer must have much better stuff! From: amfone amfone20...@yahoo.com To: Woody ko4...@gmail.com; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 2:36 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] eBay - New used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods more at low prices Woody Can't wait to bid on that deal!!1 From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 12:23 PM Subject: [Drakelist] eBay - New used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods more at low prices Any body need a 7 line Coax Sw without the outside box??? Man what a deal~~~ http://www.ebay.com/itm/120776649471?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2661#ht_1002wt_932 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Receiver Comparison Question
Kevin: I can't share any first hand experience with the Drake 2-series receivers, but I have experience with Drake (R-4B and C), Hallicrafters, Hammarlund and Collins (S-Line and A-series) receivers. First, if AM is your thing, you don't need to spend your money on Collins. Collins pretty much abandoned AM in the early '50s and they tailored their equipment to SSB. Audio quality is as good as it gets (or needs to be) for SSB communications, but you'll never get hi-fi AM from a stock Collins radio. I've owned a 75A-3, 75A-4 (still have it) and a 75S-3, all with 6 kc filters. Great radios all for what they were designed for, but it wasn't AM. Limiting my comments to the radios you mentioned, I think the 4-series Drake would be the best overall choice in terms of audio quality, QRM fighting ability and reasonable price. I've had both the R-4B and R-4C, and I think the B would be your best value. With all due respect to the other companies and their fans, I don't believe that Hallicrafters or Hammarlund are in the same league as Drake or Collins, so if you can afford Drake 4-series I say go for it. Jim W2BVM From: Kevin Nathan k...@comcast.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, October 1, 2010 2:14:17 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Receiver Comparison Question Hi All, I would like your thoughts on the following concerning receivers. A friend thought this might be the best place to air this discussion and I agree. Below is the basic set of questions I asked him but I welcome any and all feedback from you guys. Earlier this summer I bought a Drake 2B and I have been using it as my primary AM receiver for a month now and like a lot of things about itincluding sensitivity, stability and its selectivity on SSB and CW. The one thing I find less than pleasing is the narrow bandwidth of the 3.8 kHz AM filter. I have a couple of questions surrounding that. First, do you know of any mods to widen the bandwidth a little on AM? The other question is regarding differences between receivers. Since most of you have used both the 2B and R4, how would you describe the differences between them? Is the R4 better in terms of AM fidelity? What kinds of QRM fighting tools are available on the R4 similar to the Q multiplier of the 2B? I am seriously thinking of perhaps selling this 2B as a stepping stone to something nicer. The R4, possibly the Hallicrafters SX-100, Hammarlund HQ-140x or HQ180 and Collins 75S series come to mind but I think the Collins is probably out of my price range. What do you think? Thanks much for your opinions and very 73. Kevin :) Amateur Radio: K7RX ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] TR-7 ALC Issue
Hi All: I just noticed an issue with the ALC light on my TR-7. On the 10 and 20 meter bands the ALC light never comes on, regardless of how high the mic gain setting is. Power and audio output both seem normal on those bands, but the light doesn't come on. The light operates normally on all other bands. Any ideas on what's up with that? Thanx 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Anyone Need an L-7 Fan?
I replaced the fan in my L-7 because it began to get slightly noisy when on high speed. Not very loud, but just loud enough to annoy me. If anyone wants the old one they can have it for the cost of shipping ($4.95 for USPS Flat Rate box). 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel - UPDATE
First, thanx to all who replied with suggestions. I tried two methods, WD-40 and lighter fluid. I chose those two because that's what I had on hand at the house. Both methods seem to work equally well, with no apparent damage to the paint. Both methods are quite slow and the process is tedious, but at least I now know how to get the job done. Again, thanx to all. 73, Jim W2BVM - Original Message From: Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com To: Jim DiMauro radio6...@yahoo.com; Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 7:11:06 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel Hi Jim, I can't speak from experience in this particular example, but I'd try a heat gun, carefully. Might soften the plastic sticky stuff enough to allow peeling. 73, Al, W8UT New Bern, NC www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half as much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Ratty, to Mole - Original Message - From: Jim DiMauro radio6...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 7:04 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel Hi All: I have a NOS front panel for my L7 amplifier. It still has the original protective plastic covering on it that has become brittle over the years and is stuck fast to the panel. I tried to scrape it off with my fingernail and still it doesn’t want to come off. If I try to use something stronger to scrape off the plastic I’m afraid I’ll damage the paint. Do any of you know of a solvent or some other way to remove the covering that wouldn’t damage the paint or lettering? Any suggestions would be appreciated. 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel
Hi All: I have a NOS front panel for my L7 amplifier. It still has the original protective plastic covering on it that has become brittle over the years and is stuck fast to the panel. I tried to scrape it off with my fingernail and still it doesn’t want to come off. If I try to use something stronger to scrape off the plastic I’m afraid I’ll damage the paint. Do any of you know of a solvent or some other way to remove the covering that wouldn’t damage the paint or lettering? Any suggestions would be appreciated. 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Need Knobs for MN-2700
I guess they're not actually knobs...I need the little cylindrical plastic gizmos that cover the lever switches beneath the Reactive and Resistive controls. Obtainium? 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [drakelist] WTB: L-7 Amplifier
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Mike: Thanx for the heads-up on Dahl. I've also heard that on another reflector. Could be true (I hope not) or the rumor mill is at it again. Regardless, it's comforting to know that Dahl or some other source of xfmrs is available, but on the other hand $595 for a L-7 xfmr would make me search for a parts unit, or build my own supply. Thanx also to Evan for the info on UPS survivability. That, more so than cost, was my motivation for trying to find a unit locally. 73, Jim Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] WTB: L-7 Amplifier
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: I posted a message several days ago looking for an L-7 within driving distance of my home QTH in NJ or my work QTH in PA. The only responses I got were from scammers. It looks like there's nothing local so I'm now open to having an amp shipped. I want to buy a nice, fully operational L7 and power supply with no mods or issues. My preference is for a plug-and-play amp that puts out full rated power, but I will consider an amp that needs minor repairs, if the price is right. Please contact me off-list. Thanx. 73, Jim W2BVM Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] WTB or Trade: L7 Amplifier
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: I want to buy a nice, fully operational L7 and power supply with no mods or issues. I'm not looking for a project, just a plug-and-play amp that puts out full rated power. I don't want to deal with shipping, so I'd like to find something within reasonable driving distance of my home QTH in Vernon, NJ, or something near where I normally travel. I'm willing to travel in NJ, CT, southern NY state and LI. Generally speaking I'd like to stay within two hours or so drive time. Also, I work in Harrisburg, PA a couple of days each week, so something located between NJ and Harrisburg (as well as the greater Harrisburg area) would also work. In case anyone might be interested, I'm selling or would be willing to trade my Henry 2K-4 amplifier, which the L7 is going to replace. It's super heavy duty and bulletproof, and has new (less than three hours operating time) Eimac 3-500Zs and K2AW HV rectifiers. It's only drawback for me is that it doesn't operate on 160 Meters, so that's why it has to go. Please contact me off-list. Thanx 73, Jim W2BVM Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Power Supply for TR-7(a)
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I've used a switcher with my TR-7 for as long as I've owned it (about three years) and I've never had either a noise or performance problem. I can't imagine why it wouldn't be recommended. I'd also like to hear the details as to why a switching supply might not be recommended for the TR-7 if anyone can provide them. FWIW, my supply is an Astron RS-30M. Jim W2BVM --- David Drake [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I'm interested in hearing the pro's and con's regarding using a switching power supply with a TR-7(a). I remember this question coming up on the Sunday PM technical net some time ago, but forgot the details. As I recall, it is not recommended, but don't remember why. Thanks David Wd9cmd Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit. http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] FS: Drake MN-2000 Tuner
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I have a very nice Drake MN-2000 legal limit tuner in excellent working and cosmetic condition. It has some scratches on the cabinet that are visible in the photos. The only other issues are minor scratches on the front panel near the words Match 1 and Match 2 near the antenna switch to the left of the meter, and glue residue from a few small, round labels that a previous owner had pasted near some of the numbers around the Reactive and Resistive tuning controls. Other than what I've mentioned above, this unit is first class. Original instruction manual is included. Price is $200, which includes packing by my local UPS Store. Buyer to pay shipping and insurance charges from 07462. See photos here: http://www.dcaconsulting.org/photos/mn2000. 73, Jim W2BVM __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] WTB: MN-2700 Tuner
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: I'd like to find a really nice MN-2700 to go with my TR-7. I've read that these tuners are a bear to work on, specifically if one needs to have its switch wafers replaced (some of which I understand are unobtainium), so I want one with perfect switches and no signs of burns or arcing anywhere in the unit. Balun not necessary. I'm selling my Ten-Tec 238 tuner to make room. Whatcha got? 73, Jim W2BVM __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] Re: [Drake] Need Input on the MN-2700 Tuner
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: Many thanks to all who responded to my call for information on the MN-2700. After reading and considering all responses, I've come to the conclusion that the '2700 would not necessarily be the best choice for me. I had hoped that the '2700 was cut from the same bulletproof cloth as the MN-2000, but I've learned from several respondents that it's not. My understanding is that the '2700 is a good performer, but it's not up to the quality standards of the '2000. The tank-like construction and heavy-duty components that were used in the '2000 would have been my primary attraction to the '2700, but since that doesn't seem to be the case I see no compelling reason to search for a '2700. I might as well get something newer, that hasn't had 25 years of use with possibly worn switches that would be unobtanium and a real pain to replace. So for now I'll keep my MN-2000 and find another way to get on 160. I have a pristine TenTec 238 that'll cover 160, but with its roller inductor it's such a pain to tune when compared with my MN-2000 that I hate the thought of using it as my primary tuner. KB8TQ had suggested that I try adding some external C to the MN-2000 to see if I could get it to do 160. I'm willing to try, but I wonder if the inductor is up to the task. Has anyone tried that? Tnx again for the many helpful responses. Great group! Jim WA2MER -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Garey Barrell Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 10:42 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Drakelist Subject: [drakelist] Re: [Drake] Need Input on the MN-2700 Tuner Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Jim - Take a look at the inside photo's at http://www89405.temp.w1.com/DrakePictures.htm You'll see more similarities than differences. The lever switches are probably the weakest point, but you CAN burn up the rotary switch contacts on the '2000 too, if you switch them hot. Watch out for the condition of the wafer switches in a new potential acquisition. The clear number scales do develop tiny cracks with age, but only a visual problem. I've never seen one crumble.! John Kriner may still have some of these. K8FFO had them and I believe he sold his remaining stock to John. The little round knobs on the lever switches are problematic. They tend to split. Perhaps someone will come up with an aftermarket solution after enough of them have fallen off, kind of like the 7 series end-caps! 73, Garey - K4OAH2 Atlanta Jim DiMauro wrote: Hi All: I've been itching to get on 160 Meters, but my beloved MN-2000 won't get me there. Before I put out a Wanted To Buy post for an MN-2700, I'd like some owners' impressions on how good a tuner it is. My MN-2000 has been the perfect tuner for me, except for the lack of 160 Meter capability. Is the '2700 as easy to tune, and has it proven to be as reliable? The MN-2000 is built like a tank; is the '2700 cut from the same cloth? Is there anything to watch out for when buying a '2700? Thoughts, guidance and opinions would be appreciated. Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER __ Drake mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/drake Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.html Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -- On Behalf of Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] TR-7 PIN Diode Update (Was AM Filter Advice for TR-7)
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: As some of you may recall, I solved my AM filter problem last week, but then I found a bad CR1402 PIN diode (one of the two low power diodes that looks like a two-ledgged transistor, mounted on the front HPF board). I had tested the other PIN doides and found all of them to be OK. The odd thing is that I had no clue that I had a bad diode. Thhe radio played well without a clue to any probelms. I only checked the diode as a side issue to a birdie problem at 14.340 and the AM filter thing. Well, I replaced the diode last night, and there's been absolutely no change in equipment performance that I can see. The birdie is still there, but that's not enough of a problem for me to tear into the radio and chase it down. The radio showed no sign of malfunction or degraded performance anywhere before of after the diode change, so I wonder what was up with the diode? Certainly a failed PIN diode would have caused something that I would notice. The closest thing to a performance issue I found is reduced power output on the 15 and 10 Meter bands, but that's usually the case with HF rigs and I don't think that's a problem (I get about 100 Watts out on 15 Meters and 75 Watts or so on 10; 150 Watts everywhere else). No change in power before or after the diode change. So, unless someone thinks there's a problem lurking somewhere inside my TR-7, I'm going to leave it be and continue to enjoy it. Thanx to all for your input. 73, Jim WA2MER -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] Need Input on MN-2700 Tuner
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: I've been itching to get on 160 Meters, but my beloved MN-2000 won't get me there. Before I put out a Wanted To Buy post for an MN-2700, I'd like some owners' impressions on how good a tuner it is. My MN-2000 has been the perfect tuner for me, except for the lack of 160 Meter capability. Is the '2700 as easy to tune, and has it proven to be as reliable? The MN-2000 is built like a tank; is the '2700 cut from the same cloth? Is there anything to watch out for when buying a '2700? Thoughts, guidance and opinions would be appreciated. Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] Fw: TR7 Mike Gain
Bill: I assume from your post that low mic gain has always been a problem, since you said that you were surprised that the output of the mic did not improve when you switched mics. Assuming that you have an acceptable impedance match, before you tear into the rig to do any mods or troubleshooting, don't overlook something as basic as alignment. If your radio hasn't been aligned, it's possible that the transmitter ALC alignment needs touching up. If you have a service manual, do the TX alignment. Stay away from the 10 V regulator alignment, just go right to the TX alignment section and do all of the steps to the end. You'll note there's a procedure for the ALC where you have to use a non-inductive dummy load. They're not kidding: if you don't use a high quality dummy load the procedure won't work. I tried with a Cantenna and it didn't work; I had to use a Bird load. When the alignment is off, you'll get low power output, and the ALC light might come on only at a high mic gain setting, if at all. The aligmnent procedure is simple and straightforward; just do it carefully and you'll have no trouble. 73, Jim WA2MER -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Eric WebnerSent: Monday, January 03, 2005 7:56 AMTo: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netSubject: Re: [drakelist] Fw: TR7 Mike Gain Hi Bill, I had a similar problem with my Kenwood TS-520 years ago when I replaced the mic element in my D-104 mike with a Heil. I tried several transformers to get the low impedance element up to the 50 k-ohm input the radio was looking for. The final solution was to wire it direct without any transformer. I don't know if this will "increase" your audio so you don't have to run the gain as high, but it works great, and the audio is awesome! 73, Eric KA8FAN Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: - Original Message - From: Bill Carpenter To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 8:52 PM Subject: TR7 Mike Gain I love my TR7 SN 7398 and use it quite a bit. I replaced the muddy sounding cartridge in the 7077 mike with a Heil HC-5 element and reports on audio quality are much better now. I was surprised that the output of the mike did not improve. I still need to run the mike gain at about 3 oclock to light the ALC led and get full output on SSB. Since the HC-5 is low impedance I wired it through the transformer in the 7077 so it would match the stock high impedance input of the TR7. Is it possible to wire the mike a different way to increase output? I have heard that later TR7 models have a second low impendence mike input and maybe that would solve my mike gain problem? Thanks and 73, Bill NZ0T Do you Yahoo!?Send a seasonal email greeting and help others. Do good.
RE: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: Here's an update on the filter situation. First, I fixed all of the loose shield screws by very slightly crimping the stamped screw sockets on the vertical shields. Now things are nice and tight all around. A check of radio performance revealed that there was no difference in AM filter performance, nor was there a reduction in the birdie at 14.340 that I reported some time ago (around S-5 with dummy load). I could still hear CHU faintly as far away as the upper portion of 40 Meters, no change. Garey: although the shield fix didn't solve my problem, thanx for the reminder to go in there and tighten it up. I'd been meaning to do that for months, but I just never got around to it. I pulled the IF filter board and discovered that the faux AM filter wasn't the 390 Ohm resistor that seems to be a common mod, but instead there were three resistors: a 100 Ohm between the input and output terminals, shunted to ground at each end by a 1200 Ohm resistor. A little web research revealed that this mod is shown on the Drake Virtual Museum website. Until now, I was only aware of the 390 Ohm mod. I removed the three resistors and replaced them with a single 390 Ohm resistor. No more CHU! Tightened up selectivity considerably. AM filter performance is now what I would expect it to be. Many thanks for all your suggestions. You saved me around $100. Also, thanx to all for filter supplier recommendations. I'm not going to need them after all. Peter: thanx for the tip on the PIN diodes. While I was in the rig I took your advice and checked the diodes. I found a bad one: CR1402 on the front HPF board. The Ohmmeter check of CR1401 and voltage checks of the diodes on the rear board indicate normal operation. So, it's off to find a replacement. I know that a host of evils are attributed to PIN diode failure, and I'll be interested to see what changes in operation I'll notice (if any) when I replace the diode. Other than what I had mentioned here, the radio works like a charm, TX and RX. 73 to all, Jim WA2MER -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of VE3AX Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 12:54 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Drakelist Subject: Re: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7 VE3AX [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Jim: Garey has given you very good advice. While you are in there, I'd check the PIN diodes as well. There are two on the front HPF board that look like two lead transistors. You can check them with an ohmmeter. The three on the rear HPF board are high power PIN diodes and are a little more difficult to get at to check but you can get a good idea if there is a problem with them by checking the two DC pins near the top of the board. One gives essentially zero volts on rx and the other is +12VDC on rx; on tx they switch. You should not see any more than 0.3 volts or so on the low reading. If you get, say, +12 on tx and +4 on rx there is a problem. Of course the other symptom of bad PIN diodes is low power output on 15 and 10 meters. My 1st TR7 had weak AM broadcast spurs all across the bands right up through 28 Mhz with one bad PIN diode. I have two TR-7's with the 390 ohm resistor in the AM filter position and it works just fine. I don't see a lot of difference between those two and the two with the AM filters. 73 Peter VE3AX - Original Message - From: Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Drakelist drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 11:17 PM Subject: RE: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7 Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Many thanx to all who responded. I'm going to start by checking the shields tomorrow morning. I'll let the group know what I find. Also, thanx for the input on filter sources. If I'm going to spend nearly $100 for a filter, it's going to be a new one. Since there's no clear winner out there among filter suppliers, I'll liok at Inrad and Sherwood, who both offer filters for the TR-7. But first, the shields grounds... 73, Jim WA2MER -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Shorney Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 5:55 PM To: Drakelist; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7 Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 16:16:54 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote: Something else is going on if you are hearing a signal that is 45 kHz away! Unless you are living next to CHU and listening to a QRP signal from Tibet
[drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: I have a TR-7 that I'd like to use on AM every so often. The trouble is that the radio doesn't have an AM filter. A previous owner had installed the resistor mod that's supposed to act like an AM filter, but the result is far too wide to be useful. For example, if I'm listening to a QSO on 7290, I can hear CHU on 7335. Now that's wide! I'm looking for recommendations on AM filters, specifically which ones perform well. Should I look for an original Network Sciences SL-6000 that Drake supplied, or are the better options out there like Sherwood and Kiwa? All input will be appreciated. Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi Garey: Thanx for your thoughts. I hadn't looked into the circuit, or else I would have found the 8 kHz filter. Regarding CHU, it's very, very weak, but I shouldn't be hearing it at all. You may have hit on the problem: the card cage shield. It's not very tight. All of the screws are there, but more than a few are stripped. I guess it's time to tighten things up and see what happens. BTW, for future reference, what are your thoughts on filters? 73, Jim WA2MER -Original Message- From: Garey Barrell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 4:17 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Drakelist Subject: Re: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7 Jim - Something else is going on if you are hearing a signal that is 45 kHz away! There is a 4-pole crystal roofing filter in the first IF (48 MHz) that is 8 kHz wide, which sets the maximum bandwidth of the receiver. This is what sets the receiver b/w when the R-C network filter is installed. While this is not a 1.8:1 shape factor, 100 dB ultimate rejection filter, it certainly is going to be a long way down at 45 kHz from it's center frequency if everything is working normally. Unless you are living next to CHU and listening to a QRP signal from Tibet, something else is wrong! You don't have the calibrator switched on do you? Or the RV-7/75 external PTO? Is the card cage shield in place with ALL screws? DO you live under the CHU tower? :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Jim DiMauro wrote: Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: I have a TR-7 that I'd like to use on AM every so often. The trouble is that the radio doesn't have an AM filter. A previous owner had installed the resistor mod that's supposed to act like an AM filter, but the result is far too wide to be useful. For example, if I'm listening to a QSO on 7290, I can hear CHU on 7335. Now that's wide! I'm looking for recommendations on AM filters, specifically which ones perform well. Should I look for an original Network Sciences SL-6000 that Drake supplied, or are the better options out there like Sherwood and Kiwa? All input will be appreciated. Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Many thanx to all who responded. I'm going to start by checking the shields tomorrow morning. I'll let the group know what I find. Also, thanx for the input on filter sources. If I'm going to spend nearly $100 for a filter, it's going to be a new one. Since there's no clear winner out there among filter suppliers, I'll liok at Inrad and Sherwood, who both offer filters for the TR-7. But first, the shields grounds... 73, Jim WA2MER -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Shorney Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 5:55 PM To: Drakelist; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [drakelist] AM Filter Advice for TR-7 Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 16:16:54 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote: Something else is going on if you are hearing a signal that is 45 kHz away! Unless you are living next to CHU and listening to a QRP signal from Tibet, something else is wrong! You don't have the calibrator switched on do you? Or the RV-7/75 external PTO? Is the card cage shield in place with ALL screws? DO you live under the CHU tower? :-) Maybe bad filter capacitors on the DC-DC converter board? I could QSO on three different frequencies at once when my TR7 had this disease. Potentially handy, but it didn't do much for RX performance in a crowded band. Check to see if you can recieve a strong signal about 23 KHz above and/or below the true frequency. -- Jim Shorney --.--Put complaints in this box jshorney (at) inebraska.com nu0c (at) amsat.org Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, NE, USA EN10ps http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/ -- On Behalf of Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] R-4B Audio Output and Sensitivity Issues
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi All: I need a bit of help with my recently-acquired R-4B. I picked it up from a tailgater in Dayton who represented the radio as having recently been re-tubed and aligned by a well-known Drake repairman (I won't mention the repairman's name, because I'm reasonably confident that he never saw this radio, unless it was from 20 feet away across a hamfest aisle). Anyway, enough of that. When I first turned the radio on, I noticed that the audio output from a 4-Ohm speaker was very low; the gain control had to be up around 3:00 for comfortable listening. I also noticed that the apparent receiver sensitivity slowly increases over several minutes of warmup (about 10 minutes). I used the CAL signal as a reference, with it reading initially only about S3 on 80 and 40 Meters, and progressively less on the higher bands. After about 10 minutes I get around S7 on 10 M, and it gets progressively better as I go lower in frequency, with it reading S9+10 or so on 80 Meters. After 10 minutes or so, the radio seems to work as expected with regard to sensitivity. I did a check of all tubes in the radio, and I found a weak V3 (2nd Mixer and xtal oscillator, 12BE6) and V9 (noise blanker amplifier), which should have been a 12BA6 was a 12BE6, so I replaced that one, too. All tubes came up to full output on the tube tester right away, so I don't think the slow warmup is due a tube. I found and replaced two open electrolytics in the audio output stages (C173 and C176). The audio output level improved, but I think it's still too low (the audio control now has to be up around 12:00 for comfortable listening). Before I begin digging more deeply into the radio, I'm looking for information on both issues. Are there any classic failures to look for in solving these two problems? All tips will be appreciated. 73, Jim WA2MER -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] Heathkit HP-23 PS For Use With Drake Equipt.
Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi Tim: The selectable voltage on the HP-23 (which is internal on my supply, not a switch) controls only the PA screen voltage, selectable between 250V and 300V; it doesn't affect the HV. Without some sort or other of controlling the HV you'd be putting 800V on the 6JB6 plates, which is higher than the tubes would want to see. Also, the HP-23 does have a bias pot; perhaps yours is a different version? Thanx 73, Jim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tim Kass Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 9:27 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [drakelist] Heathkit HP-23 PS For Use With Drake Equipt. Yes, I've done that several times, the HP-23 has a switch on the side for 2 voltages ranges for the HV so I never bothered putting in a dropping reistors, but you will have to add a bias pot to the HP-23 to adjust the bias for the Drake transmitter, this is easily done on the under side and I stick it out the side of the HP-23the Heaths adjust their bias at the radio side...hope this helps...73 Tim K8WBL From: Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Drake List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [drakelist] Heathkit HP-23 PS For Use With Drake Equipt. Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 15:36:35 -0400 Hi All: I have a Heathkit HP-23 supply that I want to use as a substitute for the AC-4. Other than dropping the HV from 800 VDC to 650 VDC, are there any considerations I should know about? I plan to simply use a dropping resistor in series with the 800 VDC line. Is there a better way? Anyone out there using the HP-23? Jim WA2MER -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced. _ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- On Behalf of Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] Heathkit HP-23 PS For Use With Drake Equipt.
Hi All: I have a Heathkit HP-23 supply that I want to use as a substitute for the AC-4. Other than dropping the HV from 800 VDC to 650 VDC, are there any considerations I should know about? I plan to simply use a dropping resistor in series with the 800 VDC line. Is there a better way? Anyone out there using the HP-23? Jim WA2MER -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] B-Line vs. C-Line Transceive Operation
Garey: Thank you very much for the information on transceive operation. That certainly clears things up. For now, I'm going to use the R-4B with my Central Electronics 100V, then perhaps later on I'll look for a T-4XB. The only thing I have to do on the R-4B is find out why I have very low audio output, but that shouldn't be too hard to fix, at least I hope not. 73, Jim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Garey Barrell Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 10:30 AM To: Jim DiMauro Cc: Drake List Subject: Re: [drakelist] B-Line vs. C-Line Transceive Operation Jim - The late A and all B line receivers relied on color coded crystals in the transmitter and receiver to keep them on frequency in transceive operation over temperature. This is the letter at the end of the serial number on the A and B units. Red, Blue or Green, and sometimes Yellow! In the C line the two oscillators were patched together with the BFO cable, enabling a sort of phase lock between them. Used with a B receiver, the only advantage of the C transmitter is the dual dials rather than the single dial and knob skirt of the B. Everything else is the same. There are a couple of minor circuitry differences, but nothing significant. If you want to transceive in SSB, you want a B transmitter with the same color coded crystal as your receiver. Not easy to do these days! Also, check the actual paint stripe on the crystal, since some were changed back when Drake still offered a crystal exchange. The alternative is to modify a small Xcelite screwdriver to allow you to make the Transceive Align procedure adjustment in the R-4B without pulling the top cover!! 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Jim DiMauro wrote: Hi All: I used to own a C-Line that I foolishly sold about four years ago, and I've regretted the sale ever since. I vowed to replace it, and I got my first replacement piece at Dayton last Saturday: an R-4B. Not being intimately familiar with the B-Line, I've learned that the B-Line has only the INJ line to slave the xmtr and rcvr together for transceive, unlike the C-Line that had a BFO line as well. What are the operational and/or practical implications of transceiving without using the BFO line? What did the BFO line bring to the party for everyday operation? Also, what are the major differences between the B-Line and C-Line xmtrs, other than the BFO line and meter switch? Is there any reason I would choose a C-Line transmitter over a B? Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] B-Line vs. C-Line Transceive Operation
Hi All: I used to own a C-Line that I foolishly sold about four years ago, and I've regretted the sale ever since. I vowed to replace it, and I got my first replacement piece at Dayton last Saturday: an R-4B. Not being intimately familiar with the B-Line, I've learned that the B-Line has only the INJ line to slave the xmtr and rcvr together for transceive, unlike the C-Line that had a BFO line as well. What are the operational and/or practical implications of transceiving without using the BFO line? What did the BFO line bring to the party for everyday operation? Also, what are the major differences between the B-Line and C-Line xmtrs, other than the BFO line and meter switch? Is there any reason I would choose a C-Line transmitter over a B? Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] WTB: Power Connector for TR-7
Hi All: Thanx to all for your responses to my inquiries last week about the TR-7. I found a nice one and just made the deal. Now I need the four pin Jones DC power connector. Does anyone have one for sale, or know of a source? Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] WTB: Power Connector for TR-7
Hi All: Thanks for all the responses. Both Newark and Allied Electronics have them. 73, Jim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lauri D. Lundgren Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:18 PM To: Drake List Subject: Re: [drakelist] WTB: Power Connector for TR-7 Please post replies to the list. I also could use one . TKS, Larry, N1UKX Jim DiMauro wrote: Hi All: Thanx to all for your responses to my inquiries last week about the TR-7. I found a nice one and just made the deal. Now I need the four pin Jones DC power connector. Does anyone have one for sale, or know of a source? Thanx 73, Jim WA2MER -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
