RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted
If you are trying the solder blob method and finding that it takes an inordinate amount of time to work, try two things: First, be sure you are heating some copper and not just enamel. At the very least, make sure the cut end of the wire is in the blob so the end of the copper is being heated. Better, scrape the wire slightly first to expose some copper along the length you want to clean. One swipe on the sharp edge of a blade screwdriver or a DULL knife is good to pop some enamel loose along one thin line down the side of the wire. Secondly, be sure you are using enough heat. I have a 275 watt (yes 275 watt!) soldering gun that I often use to burn off the enamel. At full heat, it'll burn right through the enamel in short order G. When using my soldering station, I crank up the heat to 800 F for removing enamel. (That's one of the features I like about the Hakko soldering stations - a knob to adjust the temperature with!) Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Birdies
Hi K2ers, Has anyone got any comments to make about internally generated birdies in the K2? I have only just had a look at what my K2 produces because during a QSO with a JA on 40m Long Path a few mornings ago, who was playing chicken at 7. plus gnat's eyebrow, I was getting constant QRM - unkeyed carrier - and he was weak weak. Much blue smoke about guys who dont use dummy loads. Brain finally arrived and remembered a comment in the manual about a weak birdie at 7 Mhz. So, put a dummy load on the K2/100 and indeed QRM was from the birdie. So went looking for other birdies in case K2 needed re-alignment. I found: Scratching noises at 3524 and 3572 as tuning was varied (all freqs are to nearest kHz) Plop and constant at 3590 (sounds like a PLL locking and then letting go as tuning knob is moved) A good plop at 3990(PLL only holding for a small shift in tuning) Healthy one at 4000 ( to be expected) Twins at 7000 Twins at 10.170 Twins at 14.171 A good plop at 14.350 S9 Plop and constant at 14361 (grateful that it is out of band) Twins at 18.172 Twins at 28.000 Good plop at 28.277 Single carrier at 29.483 Have not done any number crunching yet, but I suspect that the Twins have something to do with +/- 4 Mhz oscillators +/- something else. The plops worry me a bit. Dont want to plop on transmit. All the birdies that are in-band are strong enough to cause QRM. Are these birdies found in all K2s, or have I not got something properly set up? 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Birdies
Had a quick check with my K2 serial No.4168 for birdies: All 80m frequencies quoted below 4000 nothing on any mode. I did have moving interference with a poor tone on 3857 of S1 drifting HF + a broadcast station on 3891 of S0. Appear to be external pickup despite having a BNC 1/2W term on the K2 antenna socket. 4000 Yes at S1 7000 Yes at S0 10170Yes on CW at 10172.4 at S0 LSB at 10172.5 at S0 USB clear 14171Yes on 14172 CW/LSB at S0 14167 USB at S0 14350Yes on CW transit only 14351.19 to 14351.20 LSB transit only 14351.38 to 14351.39 USB transit only 14353.38 to 14353.39 14361Yes on CW transit only 14361.19 to 14361.20 LSB appears abruptly 14361.40 and disappears same. S7 USB appears abruptly 14363.38 and disappears same. S7 18172Yes on 18172.40 CW at S0 18172.50 LSB at S0 18167 USB at S0 28000Yes on all modes at S0 28277Yes on CW 28275.80 at S0 LSB 28277.70 at S0 USB 28275.60 at S0 29483Yes on CW 29480 at S0 LSB clear USB 29481.40 at S0 All measurements were taken with the pre-amp on. Apart from the strong birdie at 14361 of S7 and the internal 4000kHz clock in the K2, all were very weak and failing to move the S meter. I think if you scrutinise most radios for the amateur market you will find such slight imperfections somewhere, though I would suspect that the K2 is a lot better than some. At the end of the day with all such items it is a trade-off between the cost the consumer is willing to pay against perfection at any price. Bob, G3VVT K2 #4168 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted
I want to second the importance of using enough heat. Initially, I tried to remove the enamel at my soldering temp of 750 and it did work, but took forever and was fairly frustrating. After deciding to move my temp up to 800 for this process, it was literally 5x faster and easier. David N2RDT -- It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking. ---Chris Chelios David M. Katinsky [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 00:07:43 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted When using my soldering station, I crank up the heat to 800 F for removing enamel. (That's one of the features I like about the Hakko soldering stations - a knob to adjust the temperature with!) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hakko wire striping was Hakko 808 wanted
Hi I think I was the first to post this method several years ago. I have a Hakko 706 that I used for many years. This model is no longer made by Hakko. It is a separate gun and station with the pump in the base unit. Someone posted a method to strip the leads using a Weller soldering gun with a 1/16 inch hole drilled into the tip. You inserted the wire into the hole added some solder and slowly pulled the wire through the hole while adding more solder. This sounded like an improvement on the solder blob method so I wanted to try it. I did not have a Weller soldering gun to try it on but then it hit me the desoldering station would do the same thing. So I tried it and was amazed when I pulled the trigger and the lead was perfectly stripped and tined. I have been doing it this way ever since. I still have my 706 but bought a 808 also. I was not sure I would like the 808 because of the larger gun with the built in pump. After using it I found it is not a problem. The 808 has a more powerful pump and better tips (and cheaper tips) than the 706. It is also easier to clean. It is getting hard to find parts for the 706 as it has been out of production for many years. I now use the 808 most of the time when I need to remove a component or strip a toroid lead. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Tom Hammondmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Brian Murymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; elecraft@mailman.qth.netmailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 11:28 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted Hi Bryan: It bears NO similarity, other than the fact that the solder's heating the enamel and causing it to melt. This method takes about 3-4 seconds to accomplish while the solder-blob method usually takes 8-10 seconds and is not nrealy as easy to accomplish, though I still feel the solder blob method is the next best way to tin leads. too bad you can't find someone locally to try it out... the difference is astounding. Tom At 07:29 PM 8/27/04, Brian Mury wrote: Thanks Tom. SNIP I don't recall who first posted it here (maybe Don Brown), but here goes: SNIP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 4, Issue 28
Jerry: There is one thing I would add for stripping the toroids with the Hakko 808...Holding the toroid in your fingers WILL burn your finger tips, the copper wire conducts the heat almost immediately...Holding the toroid with pliers might damage the enamel...Place the toroid on the workbench and place a weight on it, covering only half the toroid and leaving the wires exposed...The weight keeps the toroid from moving around, leaves the other hand free for adding solder, and saves your fingertips... Might I humbly suggest merely holding the toroid at the OTHER end of the wire being tinned...? E.g. tinning lead #1, hold closer to the Lead #2 side of the core. The heat dissipates quickly as it goes around a few tunrs of the core. Several folks have also had good luck sticking their toroids on a pencil point... or into a long, slightly tapered wooden dowel. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM
Hi Bob all - I've been using N1MM Logger with my K2 for a long time with good results. Particulars are: a P1 233 mhz 80 meg ram Win 98 SE old IBM laptop with a real RS232 port and using N1MM Logger V 3.221. I have not used the LPT port for keying but run control and keying from the single serial port. I have not tried Logger Version 4.0. xxx on this machine. More on that later. When running the program I generally keep all other resources on the CPU to a minimum and have never had a problem with speed, etc. For keying, I use a simple one transistor interface built into an RS232 plug with two (2) diodes on the keyline in order to use the External Keying Auto-Detect feature of the K2 as shown in Figure 8-1 on page 92 of my K2 (serial #2028) manual. This works like a champ! You might want to try the two diode trick when using the parallel port. At the computer, I have a regular RS232 splitter (getting harder and harder to fine these days!) and put my keyer on one of the splits and my K2 special control cable on the other. If you look at the latest version of the Help manual, you will find some information there that I wrote for using filter selection codes with the K2. RE: Logger Version 4.0.xxx - I am running version 4.0.113 on another machine with another rig and have not tried it with the K2. The other machine is a P4 2.4 g 512 meg ram Win XP Home laptop without any physical RS232 ports - only USB. I'm using this one with an Icom 756 Pro II. The results here are mixed. Rig control for the 756 Pro II seems pretty flaky on my system with some of the operations either not working at all or working intermittently and frequently causing me to either shut down the rig and restart or do the same with the program or both! Tom is apparently working on actually making keying via a serial port converter (USB to RS232) a possibility with version 4. Keying via the parallel port apparently works with version 4.0.xxx (although I never used it in V3 apparently it works very well) but if you are using an XP machine (with either V3 or V4) you will need to download and install a parallel port program that will support the LPT selection. As I recall, either dlportio.zip or port95nt.exe will do the job and information is available on the web site. I'm still hoping that eventually they will get the keying going through the same USB to RS232 converter. At some point I may give LPT keying a try. There has been lots of information on using it on the group reflector. Looks simple enough. It is a very impressive program! Tom and the guys (and gals?) that work with him on coding the various modules are very talented. I'm still amazed that the program is free! 73 es gud dx --don n4hh K2/100 #2028 KAT100, etc, etc - Original Message - From: Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2004 11:13 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Hi Julius I'm in the process of setting up N1MM and my K2. So far I have serial communications working just fine, but I can't get keying out of the LPT1 port yet. What settings have you found that affect this? Thanks and 73 Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.744 / Virus Database: 496 - Release Date: 8/24/04 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 relay problem !!!
Hi, I have completed the KAT100... Evething seems to work fine: I can change between ANT1 and ANT2 for each band, the LOW and HIGH power led is correctly controlled by the K2 also... But when I want to test each relay, I heard nothing at all !!! I found that when I did the resistance checks, that the pins 3 and 6 of U6 gave me nothing... but everything else was OK. The damn thing it's my first problem I really have from the beginning of the K2 kit... I have every options built right the first time each time... but not the KAT100 the last one !!! Thanks for your help. 73 === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Elecraft K2 #4130 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Thin Audio
I have been battling a problem with my sideband adapter for the K2. The receive audio on both sidebands (upper is much worse than lower) sounds very thin. When a station is not tuned, the received static has a tiny shrill quality. I used spectrogram to align the filters and the curves produced very closely resemble those depicted in N0SS instructions. Yes, I have checked that the BFO settings are appropriate to the lowest pitch of the BFO range. I have redone the alignments several times and still get the same result. Compared to my other rigs, the K2 is much thinner and is reminiscent of an old 6 transistor radio compared to a boom box. Even with an external speaker (A Collins 312B-3) the sound is objectionable. I aligned the CW filters in the same way and they work normally. It is fair to say that I have never been happy with the sound on sideband. I have checked the SSB adapter board for assembly errors, but have found none. It is clear that I am either making a systematic error in the alignment procedure, or there is something wrong with the adapter. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated. Fred Bongard WB6JLL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 relay problem !!!
I know what I did U2 wrong side. works to late Le 04-08-28, à 13:00, JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD a écrit : Hi, I have completed the KAT100... Evething seems to work fine: I can change between ANT1 and ANT2 for each band, the LOW and HIGH power led is correctly controlled by the K2 also... But when I want to test each relay, I heard nothing at all !!! I found that when I did the resistance checks, that the pins 3 and 6 of U6 gave me nothing... but everything else was OK. The damn thing it's my first problem I really have from the beginning of the K2 kit... I have every options built right the first time each time... but not the KAT100 the last one !!! Thanks for your help. 73 === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Elecraft K2 #4130 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Elecraft K2 #4130 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 4, Issue 28
I have one of those pairs of tweezers that you squeeze to open, and release to close. I use those to hold the toroid - they're a lot gentler than pliers would be. As for the solder - I leave the roll on the desktop with a length of solder unrolled and bent upwards so I can touch the wire and iron to the end. On Sat, 2004-08-28 at 07:54, Tom Hammond wrote: Jerry: There is one thing I would add for stripping the toroids with the Hakko 808...Holding the toroid in your fingers WILL burn your finger tips, the copper wire conducts the heat almost immediately...Holding the toroid with pliers might damage the enamel...Place the toroid on the workbench and place a weight on it, covering only half the toroid and leaving the wires exposed...The weight keeps the toroid from moving around, leaves the other hand free for adding solder, and saves your fingertips... Might I humbly suggest merely holding the toroid at the OTHER end of the wire being tinned...? E.g. tinning lead #1, hold closer to the Lead #2 side of the core. The heat dissipates quickly as it goes around a few tunrs of the core. Several folks have also had good luck sticking their toroids on a pencil point... or into a long, slightly tapered wooden dowel. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- 73, Brian VE7NGR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO alignment
Paul, 8 volts on R30 usually means the VCO is not oscillating. Try your counter probe on TP1 to see if there is any frequency indicated - if so, check that the frequency is correct for the band you are on (likely 40 meters at this stage of construction) - the low band edge frequencies are listed in Appendix B of the manual on the K2 Schematic Key sheet. If you have no frequency indication at TP1, put the probe (carefully so not to short adjacent pins) on U3 pin 3. If you have a nearly correct frequency at either of these locations, the VCO is oscillating and the trouble lies elsewhere. Let us know what you find. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - I am on page 61 of the K2 manual on VCO alignment. All previous tests have been OK. In connecting a DMM to ground and R30 I get a reading of 8 volts, which is unacceptable. I have rewound T5, replaced C72 with a new cap and replaced L30. I have also verified that the 6 varactor diodes are of proper values. Any ideas out there? Thanks Paul, NN5G ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Thin Audio
Whups... Sorry but I meant to point out in my prior message that there's a mod to fix the pre S/N 3000 K2's 2nd XFIL slope on the Elecraft web site as well as mods for the other things. All of the audio quality issues that have been uncovered over the past several years since the K2 was developed have been addressed and fixed either by changes to the basic K2 or by mods for the older units. It sure that if someone comes up with a new issue, there'll be a fix developed for it as well! That's one of the most talked-about sources of great satisfaction among Elecraft customers. If something can be improved, Wayne and Eric are right there helping or encouraging ops to do it. Many of the improvements are kitted for retrofit in the older rigs and they are periodically incorporated in the basic new rigs being shipped. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Control board resistance checks on K2, help a newbie please!
Hi everyone, I'm trying to do the resistance checks at the end of the control board part. A lot of the values seem right, but I'm not sure about some of them. Due to inexperience in kit building and using a DMM, I may just be reading things wrong (I have built a couple of small kits). For Q1 collector, Q2 collector, U6 pin 13, U6 pin 14, U8 pin 15 and U8 pin 16, I get a reading of 0L on my BK Tool Kit model 2704B DMM. This is the value that's normally displayed when you turn the knob to measure resistance and have an open circuit (i.e. the test leads aren't connected to anything). Does this mean I have an open circuit somewhere, or is the 0L mean infinite resistance (which would be OK on the checks)? The K2 manual says some DMM's will flash for infinite resistance. I have never seen my DMM flash, and I can't find anything about flashing or OL in the manual. Or, are there other places to look to make sure I've done things right? Everything appears fine based on a visual inspection (to my untrained eyes, at least). Otherwise, values for P2 pin 1, U5 OUT, U4 OUT, U3 pin 8, U6 pin 29, U6 pin 30, and U8 pin 2 seem correct. Actually, for P2 pin 1, my DMM starts off in the negative and then continues to increase at a slow rate. Is this normal? Thanks for the help. _ Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Broke T50-10 toroid !!
Guess I was pulling too hard winding toroids and broke one of the low pass T-50s. I was planning on finishing the 100 watt unit tomorrow and will go ahead and finish assembly and as much alignment as I can. Any comments on putting this thing online until the new part comes? Seems logical the way the lowpass is laid out, I should be able to run all bands but the one that is missing the low pass filter?? Any comments. 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE:[Elecraft] Control board resistance checks on K2, help a newbie please
Jason wrote: For Q1 collector, Q2 collector, U6 pin 13, U6 pin 14, U8 pin 15 and U8 pin 16, I get a reading of 0L on my BK Tool Kit model 2704B DMM. This is the value that's normally displayed when you turn the knob to measure resistance and have an open circuit (i.e. the test leads aren't connected to anything). Does this mean I have an open circuit somewhere, or is the 0L mean infinite resistance (which would be OK on the checks)? Jason, same difference, infinite resistance is open circuit. I have forgotten exactly what my resistance checks measured at this point, but I would say, keep on truckin'. The main thing you are looking for is something that would measure very low, and consequently you might let the smoke out of some part. Don't be concerned about your DMM not flashing. All DMMs behave somewhat differently from one another. The slow change you observed on P2 pin 1 is probably the 22ufd cap charging up. Again nothing to be concerned about. I would say you are doing great. 73 Jim, W4ATK K2/100 #4028 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Broke T50-10 toroid !!
Hi I don't know it it will work or not but I have heard of superglueing them back together and they work fine. Worth a try until you get a replacement Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Rich McCabemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflectormailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2004 6:08 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Broke T50-10 toroid !! Guess I was pulling too hard winding toroids and broke one of the low pass T-50s. I was planning on finishing the 100 watt unit tomorrow and will go ahead and finish assembly and as much alignment as I can. Any comments on putting this thing online until the new part comes? Seems logical the way the lowpass is laid out, I should be able to run all bands but the one that is missing the low pass filter?? Any comments. 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.netmailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/subscribershtm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.comhttp://www.elecraft.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 For Sale
Hi I am selling my K2 (Sn 301) with the following; K2 HF Transceiver KPA100 100W Option KSB2 SSB Option K160RX 160m Option KDSP2 DSP Option KAT100 100W Ext. Auto Tuner Kenwood Hand Mic Everything appears to work as specified. The radio was sent back for some help on the KPA100 back in Aug 2002 and returned fully tuned up. Mods Included; PSK31 Mod 2nd XFIL Mod I believe that all the included Options add up to about $1550 plus the Hand mic, construction time, tune up/setup by Elecraft etc etc. I'm looking for $1500 plus shipping ( to the continental US only ). Payment via Paypal or Money Order only. Please reply off the mailing list to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Brian ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Gary's Top Ten List of Kit failures
Needs to be added to all kits or sent to all new kit builders. I converted the HTML to a text file. About 14K. from http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/gary's_top_10.htm Ken N4SO Mobile, AL K2 #3394 The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening Folks, Just got home from a very long wedding and I feel beat. Hopefully the bands will be quiet tomorrow. I worked a few folks over in Europe earlier today. Odd thing is they wanted my grid square. You'd think I was in the middle of a VHF/UHF contest; but no, I was on 20 meters. I was trying to find the Hawaii QSO Party but somehow or another wound up in the Top of Europe Grid Contest. I was wondering what the CQ GRID TEST was all about but got the skinny from SM3X. Very fine signals from those folks. Some warbling but the contacts were solid. The Elecraft CW Net will be held tomorrow: Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT) 7045 kHz Please visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for further details. Thank you for the web space Dan. Stop by tomorrow so we can chat a spell. No hurry just a few contacts on a Sunday evening. 73 and stay well, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
