Re: [Elecraft] N fittings
Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against moisture and corrosion? I have been using it for many years with no problems. The longest undisturbed SO235/PL259 joint was 11 years at the top of a 60' tower and when opened it was as clean and bright as when it was put up. I usually pack the hole in the SO235 and when the plug is inserted it pushes/spreads the grease round the rest of the socket interior. 72, Peter Linsley, G3PDL [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/05 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] AZ Scorpions CW Paddles ..es ...Club Website
Guy's Can someone please point me in the right direction,...to the clubs website...looking for information on their run of paddles they were running a while back... Can anyone tell me if they have started another run as yet..? Andy [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...I Just See It.!.. John A. Ross (RSD Communications circa 2004) A.R.S. GM0NWI QRP ..It is vain to do with more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi... K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done with less.. In The Northern Hemisphere... GQRP No.9576 QRP-L No.2165 ARCI No.10561 Alaska QRP Club No.190 Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061 ICQ No.31899603 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Weatherproofing Connectors.
I hope that the ARRL and RSGB - and others - see the comments about protecting connectors that have appeared on the List, sort them out and include the fine details of the various methods in future handbooks, especially Antenna Handbooks. Or do I have a reading problem? 73, Geoff. GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Waterproofing cable fittings
Even if you are careful not to stretch the tape before cutting it, it still might not cling well if you get a finger print on it or some of the sealant leaked...Putting a plastic cable tie, (ty-wrap) over the end of the wrap, or tying it off with lacing cord, the flat stuff used on aircraft cable bundles, will keep it in place...I have used both methods...The plastic ty-wraps might eventually turn brittle and break if they have tension on them, but they will last for several years... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Weatherproofing Connectors.
Hi all, Living in NJ for a while and having to have my connections withstand the cold and ice, and now living in south Texas with the heat and humidity I read years ago how to professionally waterproof electrical connectors. I can not remember the source, but it might have been some 3M documentation. 1) make sure the connectors are tight. 2) wrap the connector completely with the vulcanizing rubber stretch tape available at home depot. This stuff has a red plastic backing that needs to be removed. You start the vulcanizing process by stetching it, If you don't stretch it first it won't work. When you stretch it it gets thin, dull and greyish. This stuff is very reasonably priced. If it is cold out, warm up the tape inside the house first, put it on your car dashboard defroster, and store it in your armpit to keep it warm. 3) Overwrap the connection with vinyl electrical tape. Stretch the tape so that it is tight against the rubber tape. You want no gaps. Not stretching it at the end is good to do to minimize the tape creeping in the heat, but the next step takes care of this problem. 4)Now I can't remember what this next stuff is called but it is made by 3M and is in a red can and is next to the electrical tape at Home Depot. Buy a can of this stuff. It has the consistency of contact cement or dark brown snot. This is really messy stuff. The lid has a paint brush on it. Throuroughly paint the electrical tape with this snot. Put two coats on. What this does is it totally seals all the edges of the vinyl tape. There is no way the vinyl tape wll delaminate once you do this. The second time you use the container of snot, you will need a pipe wrench to remove the lid. These connections will probably last forever. I have never had a seal go bad. I use 10 gauge stranded house electrical wire for all my wire antennas. The insulation on the wire works pretty well after I solder all the connections including the ends of the dipole. I coat all the exposed copper with this snot, and it totally proects the copper from corrosion. Geoff, you are right. Kurt N. Sterba, the antenna Guru, has constantly faulted the ARRL for not properly showing how to waterproof the end of the coax at its connection to the dipole. Regards, Steve, W2mY/5 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 internal signal generator?
I wrote: The K1 receiver operates on lower sideband for all bands. If you have properly set your CW offset to, say, 600 Hz, then your transmitter frequency will be 0.6 kHz lower than your receiver frequency. Most hams want the frequency display to show transmitter frequency rather than receiver frequency. In that case, when you are zero-beat with a signal at, say, 6999.3 kHz, you'd want the LCD display to show 6999.3 - 0.6 = 6998.7 kHz, which will be the frequency transmitted when key-down. Don wrote: The display frequency indicated above is not quite correct. When zero-beat with a signal (meaning to hear the signal at the sidetone pitch), the receiver display should indicate the frequency of the carrier. Yes it is true that under these conditions, the actual receiver frequency is offset by 600 Hz, but the frequency display should show 6999.3 (the center of the receiver passband will be 6999.9 kHz) Hi Don, I agree with all you say if I want my LCD to display the **receiver** frequency, But I think you missed my main point: I want my LCD to display the **transmitter** frequency, since from a standoint of operating close to band lower limits, the transmitter frequency is what is subject to regulatory requirements. So, for a LSB receiver with a CW transmitter offset, the transmitter frequency will be *below* the receiver's zero-beat frequency by the amount of offset. For example, I use a 600 Hz offset on my K1. If I am zero-beat with 1 kHz WWV, my K1 display actually shows .4 kHz, since that is the frequency that my K1 transmitter will emit if I key it. Yes it is true that under these conditions, the actual receiver frequency is offset by 600 Hz, but the frequency display should show 6999.3 (the center of the receiver passband will be 6999.9 kHz) I define actual receiver frequency as the zero-beat frequency, and I define actual transmitter frequency as that which would be determined by a frequency counter. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 for sale
I am selling my K2/100 S/N 2310. But keeping my S/N 800 It has all updates with the exception of the audio and cw keying. Includes KNB2, KAF2, K160M, KSB2 and KAT100. Also harness for KIO2 for KAT100, XV, and PC. An added feature is the K6XX SMD visible LED CW tuning indicator. If a mic is wanted I can furnish either a mic with MH2 element installed in a cylindrical hand held body or a Heil HM10 with amp built in. If interested please contact me off list. Thank youGil K8EAG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Missing reflector members...
Anyone seen a recent posting from Don Brown (KD5NDB)? Seems Don's been pretty quiet lately. And... anyone heard anything from Lou, W7HV (ex-W7DZN)? It's been a LONG while since I've read anything from Lou here. Just missing some familiar calls. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 internal signal generator?
Mike and all, On a properly aligned K1 or K2, the display WILL be the frequency to be transmitted. Not to belabor the point (and perhaps we are really saying the same thing in different words but not understanding each other), but when one hears a 600 Hz tone from a CW signal, the 'receiver frequency' is actually 600 Hz away from that carrier frequency - and yes, the receiver should display the frequency of that carrier (not offset by 600 Hz), and transmit on that displayed frequency if all is setup correctly. I can see this may be confusing, but the net of all of it is that the receiver display should be [VFO - BFO - (sidetone pitch)] and the transmit frequency is just [VFO - BFO]. The result is - if you are receiving a 6999.3 carrier and hearing it at a 600 Hz pitch, your receiver is actually tuned to 6999.9 but the display should read 6999.3 (which is where you will transmit if the K1 is properly aligned). The K1 and the K2 do take the offset into consideration automatically when computing the frequency for display (the K1 must be set for the proper transmit offset as instructed in the manual). It matters not whether we call it transmit offset or receive offset, the net should still be the same. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi Don, I agree with all you say if I want my LCD to display the **receiver** frequency, But I think you missed my main point: I want my LCD to display the **transmitter** frequency, since from a standoint of operating close to band lower limits, the transmitter frequency is what is subject to regulatory requirements. So, for a LSB receiver with a CW transmitter offset, the transmitter frequency will be *below* the receiver's zero-beat frequency by the amount of offset. For example, I use a 600 Hz offset on my K1. If I am zero-beat with 1 kHz WWV, my K1 display actually shows .4 kHz, since that is the frequency that my K1 transmitter will emit if I key it. Yes it is true that under these conditions, the actual receiver frequency is offset by 600 Hz, but the frequency display should show 6999.3 (the center of the receiver passband will be 6999.9 kHz) I define actual receiver frequency as the zero-beat frequency, and I define actual transmitter frequency as that which would be determined by a frequency counter. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Setting Filters for RTTY
Good Morning Guys After a nice weekend working the CQ WPX RTTY contest, I decided that I needed to setup the RTTY filters. Prior to this I have been using the DSP filter function within the logging program. I set the radio to the 40 meter band, fired up spectragrm and proceeded to align the filters on a center frequency 1255 hz. I set the filters up as follows... 2.00 1.50 1.00 .50 hz. Copied RTTY signals on 20 meters last night and this morning and they worked like a charm. Tuned the rig up on 15 meters this morning, and I find that the filters are not centered on the same frequency that they were when I set them up last night. As a matter of fact there is a 1.25 khz shift between where the signal is tuned in on LSB and where the filter is set on rtty. Shifting through the other settings of 1.5, 1.00 and .5 khz produced other offsets that are not present on bands below 14 mhz. The results are similar for the 12 and 10 meter bands.I have worked RTTY on 15 and 10 meters in the LSB mode with no problems. Is it possible that the PLL tables is screwed up or am I doing something that the rig is not capable of? Any thought on the matter would be appreciated. Tom K5VJZ K2/100 SN 4279 Lafayette, La. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] AZ Scorpions CW Paddles ..es ...Club Website
Andy, They're at www.azqrp.org/azqrp/ 72, Bruce N7CEE Flagstaff, Arizona ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Setting Filters for RTTY
On Wednesday 16 February 2005 17:22, Tom Harson wrote: Is it possible that the PLL tables is screwed up or am I doing something that the rig is not capable of? Any thought on the matter would be appreciated. Tom, you have to adjust the BFO filter settings twice. On a band below or equal 18Mhz in usb mode and above 18Mhz in the lsb mode. This is because of the mixing scheme in the K2. For CW its similar on 15m and above use the inverted setting(CW RV button). 73/72 Wolf, DL2WRJ -- http://www.dl2wrj.de - CW - Digital - QRP - QRPP - QRSS DL-QRP-AG #2138 AGCW #3022 RU-QRP #47 G-QRP #11473 QRP-L #2545 fpqrp #887 german chapter #4 Devoted to QRP - QRV with Elecraft K1, K2 and wire antennas ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Rtty Filter Setting
Many thanks to Wolf - DL2WRJ for pointing out to me that I had not aligned the reverse rtty filters, having done that the problem is cured... Thanks Wolf !!! This list is a great resource. 73 de Tom K5VJZ SN 4279 Lafayette, La. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Waterproofing cable fittings
But be sure and use the black ty-wraps. They will last a lot longer. The white ones don't stand up to the UV. Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeremiah McCarthy Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 9:42 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Waterproofing cable fittings Even if you are careful not to stretch the tape before cutting it, it still might not cling well if you get a finger print on it or some of the sealant leaked...Putting a plastic cable tie, (ty-wrap) over the end of the wrap, or tying it off with lacing cord, the flat stuff used on aircraft cable bundles, will keep it in place...I have used both methods...The plastic ty-wraps might eventually turn brittle and break if they have tension on them, but they will last for several years... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 internal signal generator?
Don wrote: On a properly aligned K1 or K2, the display WILL be the frequency to be transmitted. Don, This is not true for the K1. The K1 operating frequency display is not as smart or foolproof as that of the K2. In the K1, *only* the base VFO frequency (ranging from about 3.1 to 2.9 MHz from low to high end of band) is sensed. The other oscillators that determine receiver frequency (hetrodyne crystal, product detector crystal) are *not* sensed by the MPU. The MPU takes the sensed VFO frequency and combines it with assumed values of hetrodyne crystal frequency (based on what is has been told is the band assigned) and assumed values of product detector frequency. Then it uses a correction factor set through the OPF function to adjust/calibrate the frequency display to make up for variences in the actual hetrodyne and product detector oscillators from unit to unit. Likewise on transmit, the same process takes place except that the offset (transmit mixer) oscillator frequency comes into play rather than the product detector frequency. One could smash the hetrodyne, product detector, and transmitter mixer crystals and the K1 would happily continuing displaying the same frequency as before, because the K1 MPU doesn't know that these other oscillators are now kaputt. The K1 MPU frequency display system also doesn't know if you are transmitting or receiving. The VFO frequency doesn't change in either case (unless RIT is on, which does alter the VFO frequency when receiving). Thus, the K1 requires use the OPF function to calibrate the display to the transmitter frequency rather than to the receiver frequency, if that is desired. You have to make a choice to calibrate to either the receive frequency or the transmit frequency...you can't have both. The K1 and the K2 do take the offset into consideration automatically when computing the frequency for display The K1 design definitely does *not* do this, since the LCD frequency counter senses *only* the VFO frequency and has no idea what the offset oscillator is doing. Somewhat related is the fact that changing the sidetone frequency on the K1 does not alter the transmitter offset. A trimmer cap has to be adjusted to make the new offset match the sidetone frequency that was set by menu. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K-2 vs SDR-1000
Have there been any lab tests published comparing the SDR-1000 against the K-2? Carry on Bill_Harris ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1-4 trimmer cap confusion -- an idea
Hello, Well, I haven't had first hand experience with the new trimmer caps, but I have been reading the email. Maybe this idea will make sense (apologies if it doesn't). If it is too hard to figure out visually which way to mount the trimmer caps, why not use a meter. I assume the adjustment screw side of the cap should be grounded, so just find out which terminal connects to the screw and make sure that terminal mounts to ground. Rob KK4R Vin: Just assembled K1 #1945 with the K1-4 option. Like you, I had some questions about the new trimmer caps during assembly. I did my best with understanding the directions and still installed them backwards ... consistently though. The only problem with installing them backwards is that you must use a ceramic adjustment tool on alignment, or the adjustment tool causes the frequency adjustment to be flawed. Now, after having done it backwards, I'll just point you to the errata sheet. It tells you the shape and which is considered the flat end. I installed them backwards from the Errata sheet ... and don't remember which now, but the Errata sheet is correct. Hope this helps. 73, gene KC0RXY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K-2 vs SDR-1000
On Wed, Feb 16, 2005 at 11:51:53AM -0800, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: Even more important, the direct DDS approach creates the same DDS off freq. spurs on transmit. Not a great idea then running 1KW etc. Something to think of before hooking the output of your KX-1 to an Alpha 77! Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Weatherproofing Connectors.
The messy stuff in the can is called Scotchcoat. It works well but can cause a bunch of trouble doing a disassembly if its used directly on the connectors. I've seen a few lazy people that did that and it works OK until you have to take things apart! 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: Steven Pituch [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Elecraft Discussion List' elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 9:16 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Weatherproofing Connectors. | Hi all, | Living in NJ for a while and having to have my connections withstand the | cold and ice, and now living in south Texas with the heat and humidity I | read years ago how to professionally waterproof electrical connectors. I can | not remember the source, but it might have been some 3M documentation. | | 1) make sure the connectors are tight. | | 2) wrap the connector completely with the vulcanizing rubber stretch tape | available at home depot. This stuff has a red plastic backing that needs to | be removed. You start the vulcanizing process by stetching it, If you don't | stretch it first it won't work. When you stretch it it gets thin, dull and | greyish. This stuff is very reasonably priced. If it is cold out, warm up | the tape inside the house first, put it on your car dashboard defroster, and | store it in your armpit to keep it warm. | | 3) Overwrap the connection with vinyl electrical tape. Stretch the tape so | that it is tight against the rubber tape. You want no gaps. Not stretching | it at the end is good to do to minimize the tape creeping in the heat, but | the next step takes care of this problem. | | 4)Now I can't remember what this next stuff is called but it is made by 3M | and is in a red can and is next to the electrical tape at Home Depot. Buy a | can of this stuff. It has the consistency of contact cement or dark brown | snot. This is really messy stuff. The lid has a paint brush on it. | Throuroughly paint the electrical tape with this snot. Put two coats on. | What this does is it totally seals all the edges of the vinyl tape. There | is no way the vinyl tape wll delaminate once you do this. The second time | you use the container of snot, you will need a pipe wrench to remove the | lid. | | These connections will probably last forever. I have never had a seal go | bad. | | I use 10 gauge stranded house electrical wire for all my wire antennas. The | insulation on the wire works pretty well after I solder all the connections | including the ends of the dipole. I coat all the exposed copper with this | snot, and it totally proects the copper from corrosion. | | Geoff, you are right. Kurt N. Sterba, the antenna Guru, has constantly | faulted the ARRL for not properly showing how to waterproof the end of the | coax at its connection to the dipole. | | Regards, | Steve, W2mY/5 | | -- | No virus found in this outgoing message. | Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. | Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005 | | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Weatherproofing Connectors.
Hi Sandy and all, Thanks for the Scotchcoat name which I forgot. I knew it wasn't Scotchbrite or Scotchguard. Yes, the good thing about using the vulcanizing rubber is that you can cut deep into it with a razor blade and peel everything off of the coax and connectors. The rubber sticks to itself but not to metal or plastic. The connector will still look brite afterwards. I tend to trust the Scotchcoat product over the liquid electrical tape brand. The vulcaniing rubber needs to be covered by the vinyl tape. Used alone it deteriorates rather quickly. Regards, Steve, W2MY/5 http://users.ev1.net/~spituch/ QRP/ARCI 8351, FPQRP 1025, NJQRP 25, QRP-L 269, FISTS 3150, ARS 142, NEQRP 281, NWQRP ??, 10-10 61720, NORCAL 691, K2 #402 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K-2 vs SDR-1000
In results obtained by me with Leif Asbrink on 14 Mhz, the IP3 is over 10dBm IF you set the thing as it should be. The Elecraft K2 is 20+ dBm with preamp off at 5 Khz. SDR-1000 BDR is 105 dB, the Elecraft K2 is 135 dB It IMDDR3 is 99 dB, the Elecraft K2 is better. The DDS does produce spurs BUT the DDS is not directly driving the mixer. This is often misunderstood. The DDS output does not even touch the mixer. The DDS output is hard limited and that hard limited signal is using to drive a switched capacitor network. What spurs there are, are CONSIDERABLY better than driving it directly. In this regard Eric is slightly off in his implications in that if driven directly by the DDS, the mixer would be a mess. The worst spurs are buffered away from us. On the other hand, some spurs get through as phase modulation on the bus switches driving the switched capacitor front end. I know this well. I spent months perfecting this ingenious method for escaping the AM spurs and the PM SPURS are what is getting through!! These spurs are annoying and I hope that Gerald in his next radio or next generation boards (whatever) finds a way to clean this up. That said, what spurs there are, are way down and on transmit, even with the 100w amplifier these transmit spurs are so far below legal limit as to be not a thing to worry about. On receive, they are annoying because Gerald has built too much sensitivity into the receiver. With everything flaming, he has -140 dBm as the MDS. This is about 15 dB too sensitive for HF work and of course you can raise the IP3 and BDR WITH A GREAT SOUND CARD by attenuating the front end. With a great sound card, I raised the BDR by 15 dB while keeping the MDS the same even though I put another 6 dB of attenuation inline! I was able to increase the IMDDR by changing the roofing filter (switched capacitor filter values) and increased the IP3 to TOP OF CLASS, BETTER THAN EVERYONE EXCEPT THE IC7800 with a change of front end device! By the way, my sound card cost $1000. SO, you can take your knife and soldering iron and make it a great receiver. NOT FOR EVERYONE! The League recently purchased one for review. Their results will be interesting to see but the K2 will remain the king. I would take away from this discussion that the Elecraft K2 is and will be at the top of the heap in these raw numbers. The SDR-1000 in my view is about 4-th or 5-th on the Elecraft receiver comparision chart as it comes from the shop. I can make it almost best on the chart with surgery. So the SDR-1000 is for those who do not mind a never ending beta project. It really is interesting and I have spent hundreds of hours programming the DSP for it along with AB2KT. It is in the spirit of the tinkering amateur radio operator who doesn't mind modifying their existing radio to make it better. SOUND FAMILIAR? On Field Day, I supplied to W2GD, Elecraft K2's for our QRP FD (2A Battery) and we came in sixth overall. I own three transceivers. Elecraft K2, SDR-1000, and FT1000MP. The FT1000MP has not been here for months because it is at my contest multi-multi site (N3NGE's house) as the two meter radio (with transverter). The K2 and the SDR-1000 are fantastic radios but it pays to investigate what is right for you. If you are interested in an open source project that is really interesting and will continue to be interesting for a while, SDR-1000 is a really good radio. It is NOT the best radio in what would be most people's estimation. Gerald has been in business for two years and has probably learned a lot from this experience. He has sold over 500 of the radios and has had 5 returned. Three of those folks didn't know they needed a computer! Two of them could not download new software. I don't think he has had a truly disatisfied customer. The SDR-1000 is a real darling of many bleeding edge types in the EME community. It does things others cannot do (some of these ideas stolen from Linrad, etc.) That said, it is a radio in training and Gerald's next offering whatever that is and whenever it will be is likely to be a really nice one. In my mind, the Elecraft K2 is at the top of the heap for best receiver. It never ceases to amaze me that Wayne and Eric put together a kit that continues to put the big boy's to shame. My Elecraft K2 and SDR-1000 sit side by side and they fight daily for my attention! 73's Bob N4HY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Suggested options with K2? Portable/contesting/CW/RTTY
Hi: I am considering obtaining a K2. My primary operating modes are CW and RTTY. Furthermore, I envision I will be using the K2 a lot for portable operation (family/business travels), but also some for contesting (again, CW and RTTY). What options do you current owners feel most valuable and I should take with the rig? To keep things simple at this point, assume that I am only interested in QRP operation for the above. 73 de Kristinn, TF3KX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] An external PA with the K2?
Hi: I am considering obtaining a K2 and just posted a question regarding the most useful options for QRP. Now, when using the K2 at home, particularly for contesting, I may want to run the full 100W. Instead of integrating the 100W PA permanently into the rig, and not having it instantly available as a QRP rig, I would rather want to have the 100W amplifier external and simply plug the K2 up to it when I am using it as a home station. So, is the 100W PA available as an external unit? Any other suggestions? I am aware of other solid state amplifiers, such as the Ameritron units, but I feel that would be an overkill. Mounting the 100W PA from Elecraft into the EC2, or something similar (keeping the QSK, as well) would be a neat solution... 73 de Kristinn, TF3KX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] An external PA with the K2?
Yes of course... I built mine that way... a QRp ready to go and an external PA that also include an antenna tuner in a EC2 enclosure Se my website for photos http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum29.html 73 Le 05-02-16, à 19:24, Kristinn Andersen a écrit : Hi: I am considering obtaining a K2 and just posted a question regarding the most useful options for QRP. Now, when using the K2 at home, particularly for contesting, I may want to run the full 100W. Instead of integrating the 100W PA permanently into the rig, and not having it instantly available as a QRP rig, I would rather want to have the 100W amplifier external and simply plug the K2 up to it when I am using it as a home station. So, is the 100W PA available as an external unit? Any other suggestions? I am aware of other solid state amplifiers, such as the Ameritron units, but I feel that would be an overkill. Mounting the 100W PA from Elecraft into the EC2, or something similar (keeping the QSK, as well) would be a neat solution... 73 de Kristinn, TF3KX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ Elecraft K2 #4130 / KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] An external PA with the K2?
Here is the summary of posts I have seen in the past about this issue. Anyone who has anything to add/modify/remove, please send it to me and I will integrate it into this summary. dt . --- Kristinn Andersen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Instead of integrating the 100W PA permanently into the rig, and not having it instantly available as a QRP rig, I would rather want to have the 100W amplifier external and simply plug the K2 up to it when I am using it as a home station. So, is the 100W PA available as an external unit? Any other suggestions? I am aware of other solid state amplifiers, such as the Ameritron units, but I feel that would be an overkill. Mounting the 100W PA from Elecraft into the EC2, or something similar (keeping the QSK, as well) would be a neat solution... --- David Toepfer [EMAIL PROTECTED] I was wondering how I could build a K2 and keep it light and QRP portable without having to actually remove the amp every time I wanted to move it. Puting a KPA100 and a KAT100-2 in EC2 case, is that possible? --- Bill Flynn AIØC [EMAIL PROTECTED] Lyle Johnson, KK7P (ex-WA7GXD), has done this. He's written it all up on an excellent Web page that you can view at http://www.fidalgo.net/~wa7gxd/k2kpa100.html. --- Paul Clay [EMAIL PROTECTED] Has anyone implemented Lyle Johnson's (KK7P's) suggested method (see http://www.fidalgo.net/~wa7gxd/k2kpa100.html#NOKIO2) of running a K2 and KAT-100 combo without an installed KIO2 (or KPA-100)? --- Sverre Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] The question of the KPA-100 external to the K2 surfaces from time to time, and there are two descriptions of how it can be done. To find them you may check the Unofficial K2 Modifications page at www.qsl.net/la3za/K2/mod.html, go to General mods and then KPA100. --- Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please visit: http://www.fidalgo.net/~wa7gxd/k2kpa100.html For (I think) all the info you should require on this subject --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yes, it IS do-able and has been done. In fact, I just received my EC2 enclosure and am about to do it myself. Check out http://www.fidalgo.net/~wa7gxd/k2kpa100.html to see how. In addition to the external enclosure, you will need the KIO2 option in your base K2 so it can communicate with the external KPA100. --- Bob Nielsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Is it recommended to integrate the KPA100 with the K2 and get it all working together before remoting it in the EC2? --- Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] In the initial KPA-100 checkout, I had mine laying upside-down on a thick book (must have been a Windows tome...) with the cables plugged into the open-top K2. Once the KPA100 is checked out in this fashion, cal done, etc., I don't think it matters which box you put it in. --- Eric Manning [EMAIL PROTECTED] YES! That way, if any little glitches pop up when you remote the KPA-100, you can eliminate a lot of possibilities up front. For instance, if there are communication problems when it's remoted but it's OK when in the single box, you can focus on the RS-232 path between the two microprocessors . It's just the same principle of building a piece of the kit, then testing it before building any more, which Elecraft always follows. --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] My question for those who have gone through this is if there is a recommended order of construction that makes integration and/or check-out of the various components easieror more logical. --- Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yes, 1) Build the KPA-100 into the K2 and see that it works. 2) Build the KAT-100 in the EC2 case, connect it to the K2/100, and see that it works. 3) Build the KIO2, remove the KPA-100, and verify the K2/KAT-100 combination works. 4) Put the KPA-100 into the EC2 with the KAT-100 and verify it all works. --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yes, do the KIO2 first, but check out the instructions for mounting the KPA100 in the EC2 while you are building it - the inductors on the KIO2 connector/header board must be changed to toroids or other chokes that will carry the additional current. Other than that, I can think of no other particular order, but you may want to build the KPA100 before the KAT100 so you can check out the tuner at full power. --- Bill Acito W1PA [EMAIL PROTECTED] fyi, consensus (6 or 7 emails) seemed to be if you want to swap back and forth from a QRP to the 100W version of the K2, then mounting the KPA100 (and KAT100) in a seperate EC2 is the way to go. Most (not all) who responded found swapping the lids tedious, and dangerous (possibly dropping a heavy lid into the K2) --- Bill Acito W1PA [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yes, and was still described as faster and safer. http://www.qsl.net/la3za/K2/modAny.html#KPA100 --- JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD [EMAIL PROTECTED] Now I have updated my website about building a KPA100 and KAT100 in the same enclosure, as advertised by Elecraft with the KAT100-2. See my link: http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum29.html Comments or
[Elecraft] K1 160 meters
Has anyone ever had a K1 on 160? If so how did it do? Thanks Brent WB4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] k1 on 160
hot doggies HOW? -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 160 meters
Yes! Just did a board for mine. Elecraft has all the parts except for the crystal! My new 2 band board is for 160 and 80 meters. Works really great. If you don't get an answer from the people who did the change, I'll searchup the messages and send you the thread. 73, Sandy W5TVW K1 #1178 - Original Message - From: Brent Sutphin WB4X [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 7:49 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 160 meters | Has anyone ever had a K1 on 160? If so how did it do? | | Thanks | Brent WB4X | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 160 meters
Sandy wrote: Yes! Just did a board for mine. Elecraft has all the parts except for the crystal! My new 2 band board is for 160 and 80 meters. Works really great. If you don't get an answer from the people who did the change, I'll searchup the messages and send you the thread. 73, Sandy W5TVW K1 #1178 - Original Message - From: Brent Sutphin WB4X [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 7:49 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 160 meters | Has anyone ever had a K1 on 160? If so how did it do? | | Thanks | Brent WB4X | I'm another guy who just modified his 80/40 board to be an 80/160 board and it was really simple (even I could do it!). It works well, too. The crystal from International Crystal cost about $20 and they were actually quite fast; of course Elecraft had the rest of the parts and they were even faster. Total cost is about $45 -- and is worth itexcept, of course, the 160 m band is pretty darn near worthless with QRP in the summer months...but that's when I'll put the KF1-4 in (40, 30, 20, 15 m)! Go for it! Joe, W2RBA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 160 meters
Brent and all, Yes, I have put a K1 on 160 meters. and I wrote a set of instructions and a parts list for the reflector a while back. It does just great - a 2 band board with 160 and 80 along with a 4 band board will cover all the lower HF bands. Unfortunately, I just found that I did not properly archive those reflector posts, and I don't have it locally. It can be found in the Elecraft Reflector Archives. I guess I do need to dig those instructions out and post them on my website sometime soon. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Has anyone ever had a K1 on 160? If so how did it do? Thanks Brent WB4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] 160M K1 band option
--- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Rod Adams [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 160M K1 band option Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:20:20 -0500 - Original Message - Hi All, I would like to see an Elecraft 160m 80M 2 band board for my K1 - Rod, Not quite a full Elecraft 160m 80m board, but you can do it this way - order a 2 band board for 80m and any other band, PLUS, order the following components (Elecraft has them all except the crystal) - here are the instructions for how I did it: -- maybe you can make a deal with someone at Elecraft to ship a ''1 band board and the other needed parts I ordered the following from Elecraft: Capacitors: 2 - E530002 1500 pf capacitor 3 - E530003 2700 pf capacitor 2 - E530005 1200 pf capacitor 2 - E530035 1800 pf capacitor 2 - E530052 560 pf capacitor 2 - E530053 680 pf capacitor 1 - E53005812 pf capacitor Inductors: 1 - E690007 33 uh inductor 2 - E690001 4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot) Toroid cores: 2 - E680001 T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color) I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load capacitance) from International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com. If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should also order the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft. The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO. I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2 locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 were left empty at this time. Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of wire) on the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions. The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 and L6. On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across L5 and L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins). The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13. Form the leads under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my inductor is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans. Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding wire to the side of the can (or top if you prefer). The remaining capacitors are fitted into the following positions: C1 C5 - 680 pf C2 C4 - 2700 pf C3 - 12 pf C11 C15 - 1800 pf C12 C14 - 560 pf C21 C23 - 1500 pf C22- 2700 pf You should now have all the holes filled, and can proceed to align the 2 band board following the instructions in the K1 manual. Mine came up with no trouble at all. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be subscribed to post to the list. To subscribe or unsubscribe see: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Elecraft Web Page: http://www.elecraft.com Also see: http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX160 rig 160 QRP
It's funny to read about the K1 on 160M. Last week, I emailed Wayne and asked if a KX160 (160M/80M version of the KX1) was even possible. He said it was doable, even the autotuner (!) but the market would be too limited to make the actual product. My money is ready. I wonder how many orders they would really need to do it? 73 =paul= w8kc ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX160 rig 160 QRP
On Thu, 2005-17-02 at 00:01 -0500, Paul - W8KC wrote: My money is ready. I wonder how many orders they would really need to do it? Only one if the price is right! :-) -- 73, Brian VE7NGR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N fittings sealing weatherproofing
Hi All, While we're discussing sealing antennas and stuff, I'd like to throw my nickel in. My work takes me all over the world, doing field expedient communications intercept systems for military, in deserts and jungles. People die if these systems fail. First, I buy all coax and connectors from Joel at RF Connection. www.therfc.com. I use 3 piece crimp connectors where possible. I prefer BNC or N, depending on the freq, or SMA if microwave. I fill the insides of all connectors with a teflon-based compound called STUF. I get it by the case of 144 tubes from the manufacturer, but it is sold by some of the ham dealers. It looks like a toothpaste tube made of plastic, and has a weird coupling nozzle that will fit most connectors. You simply squeeze the slimy white stuff into the voids of both halves of all connectors, displacing all air, then assemble the connector. Yeah, the stuff will squirt out, and you want this. You want no voids in the connector. No air space. A rag will wipe it off well enough to continue. One tube of STUF costs around $2 (in my quantity) and will do 20 or more connectors. Then I wrap Scotch 33M+ tape around the connector, from 3 or 4 inches below the connector on the coax, overlapping 50% and stretching somewhat, up to the body of the connector the best I can. As mentioned, cut the tape leaving no tension on the final wrap. I then secure the end of the tape around the connector with a small wire tie, and cut off the tail. Then, I use liberal amounts of Coax Seal, from below the end of the tape, wrapped 50% overlap, up to the connector. I mold the Coax Seal around the connector and press it into any voids and up around everywhere so no metal is exposed. If working in a cold climate, I keep the Coax Seal in an inside pocket to keep it malleable. That does it. I've opened up connectors after years in the desert in Bogota, and there's absolutely no moisture. The Coax Seal removes cleanly because of the tape layer underneath, and the 3M tape unwinds neatly. STUF does not have any problem up to 6 gig microwave. I've swept cables and connectors done this way on a TDR, and you barely can see the impedance bump, to several gigs. None of this is expensive, or complicated, or difficult to do even on a ladder when you're hanging on by your ears and holding a flashlight in your teeth in 30 mph winds. For maybe USD $3, I can secure an antenna connection on a critical commo system against the elements in some of the roughest terrain imaginable, for a decade. More than anything else, I recommend STUF and Coax Seal. Maybe your club can buy in industrial quantities and get a price break, although none of it is expensive. STUF also is superb for installations near the coast, with a salt water environment. No green crud if you do it right. I know also Radio Works www.radioworks.com sells Coax Seal and Stuf. I'd try RF Connection first, though. Thanks to all for helping me get the most enjoyment out of my beloved K2. Steve WA3SWSK2 s/n 661 *** Steve Uhrig, SWS Security, Maryland (USA) Mfrs of electronic surveillance equip mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] website http://www.swssec.com tel +1+410-879-4035, fax +1+410-836-1190 In God we trust, all others we monitor *** ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
