Re: [Elecraft] k2 cw-cw reverse tones are different

[Dale Boresz]

Would just like to add that it's also important to have the signal of 
interest zero-beat with respect to the bfo frequency *before* switching 
between CWn and CWr. Failing to do so will guarantee that the normal and 
reverse pitches will not be the same (assuming everything else is set up 
properly).


73, Dale WA8SRA

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


Tom, KM4CU wrote:

A long time issue for me is the difference in the pitch of cw normal and cw
reverse, they are different. I have set bfo setting several times with no
difference.

--

How different Tom? 


The K2's logic design allows for an error of up to 20 or 30 Hz, just like
all the other BFO settings. That was tradeoff with cost and complexity.
Getting the BFO frequency settings predictably closer would have involved
substantially more of both  


All that's happening when going between CWn and CWr is the BFO frequency is
being changed. It's identical to what goes on as you step through the
various filter bandwidths.

Also, like the other filter settings, you *must* set up the BFO frequencies
while watching a noise display on Spectrogram, or at least not trying to
adjust the tone listening to a signal. The local oscillator and beat
frequency oscillators interact, which will defeat any attempts to "tweak"
the tones while actually listening to a signal.  


Ron AC7AC

-
 



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[Elecraft] K1 Assistance (Power out during transmitter alignment)

[Steve Watkins]

I was recently at the transmitter alignment stage, and apparently did not fully 
understand the procedure.  I did not exit the "TUNE" mode, but kept tweeking 
the pots for max power.  I melted the grommet, but was getting 6+ watts out up 
until that time.

Elecraft graciously sent me a new Q7, which I was hoping was the only thing I 
damaged.  I now do not get any power out when attempting the alignment 
procedure.  Maybe I damaged other components?  

I do not, or have not built an RF probe, and am kind of new to this electronic 
testing.

Does anyone have some suggestions so I can again see poer out?  Kind of sitting 
here stumped at the moment and would appreciate any suggestions to get me 
moving along.

Thanks, Steve
KB7PEF
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[Elecraft] M3 Semiconductor Analyzer at Dayton

[Jim Larsen - AL7FS]

I just noticed the following bit of info for those of you going to FDIM.

from the site:
"Visit with us at the Dayton Hamvention 20-22 May '05, Booths 41-42 (in the 
Arena) collocated with KANGA US"


Jim
--
Jim Larsen
http://www.AL7FS.us/

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Re: [Elecraft] WTD: Hi-Mound BK-100 Manual

[Margaret Leber]

Andy GM0NWI wrote:

Was at a rally this weekend in the town of Irvine (Scotland). Picked 
up one of the above keys, in "good" shape, for the fantastic sum of 
?10.00 (British Pounds) at the "bring n buy/junk sale" seems to be 
all in working order,


Was wondering if anyone has a manual for this little babe...?I'm new 
to "bug" type keys of any kind, and not sure on how to set her up for 
operation properley would also like to check out that there are no 
defective, or missing parts


Some adjusting information available at

 http://www.morsex.com/misc/keyadj.htm

 73 de Maggie K3XS

--
-/___.   _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress /
/(, /|  /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/
---/   / | / |  _   _   _`  _  AOPA 925383/ amid change and to  /
--/ ) /  |/  |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_  K3XS / preserve change amid/
-/ (_/   '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/
/(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/

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RE: [Elecraft] k2 cw-cw reverse tones are different

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Tom, KM4CU wrote:

A long time issue for me is the difference in the pitch of cw normal and cw
reverse, they are different. I have set bfo setting several times with no
difference.

--

How different Tom? 

The K2's logic design allows for an error of up to 20 or 30 Hz, just like
all the other BFO settings. That was tradeoff with cost and complexity.
Getting the BFO frequency settings predictably closer would have involved
substantially more of both  

All that's happening when going between CWn and CWr is the BFO frequency is
being changed. It's identical to what goes on as you step through the
various filter bandwidths.

Also, like the other filter settings, you *must* set up the BFO frequencies
while watching a noise display on Spectrogram, or at least not trying to
adjust the tone listening to a signal. The local oscillator and beat
frequency oscillators interact, which will defeat any attempts to "tweak"
the tones while actually listening to a signal.  

Ron AC7AC

-


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[Elecraft] k2 cw-cw reverse tones are different

[tom]

good eve. A long time issue for me is the difference in the pitch of cw normal 
and cw reverse, they are different. I have set bfo setting several times with 
no difference. any suggestions?? thanks.
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Re: [Elecraft] Two-Band Filter Board Question (K1)

[Mike Morrow]

Jim wrote:

> ... I intend to convert my K-1's (#391) original 2-band filter board
> to 80 & 40 meters from 40 & 20.

Unless the 40m crystal in your four-band board and the 40m crystal in your 
two-band board oscillate at nearly the same frequency (within 100 Hz), there'll 
be a little frequency display inaccuracy for 40m on one of the filter boards.  
The K1 MPU can store only one display calibration factor for any particular 
band. 

> Is it necessary to locate the 80 m parts at the band 1 locations

No.

> may I just remove the 20 m parts and replace with the 80 m values?

That'll work.  You'll just have to assign band 2 (b2) to 80m after installing 
the two-band board.  Since b1 will already be assigned to 40m from your last 
four-band board installation (albeit with a display inaccuracy), you'll save 
having to mess with b1 reassignment.

73,
Mike / KK5F 


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Transverter TRN3 and TRN6 setup problems

[W4sc]

Geert Jan, I tried your suggestion. No luck. After setting up trn3 for 432 
MHz, IF=28, Offset = 0 trnaddr 3, ., I depressed Band +-, inband appears, 
then 4.  I enter 32100.  The display then reads 4321000.  I do it for 
both VFOs.  A / B them they are both at 4321000.  As soon as the VFO knob is 
moved BOTH vfos become corrupted on the display. A=405900.0 ; B= 405810.0. 
Input from VFO knob locked out, display frozen.  Display never goes blank to 
indicate an unlock condition. Can switch to other bands... Firmwares are 
latest, latest, latest... BAD MCU??  Ser # 25xx with all updates.


Ben

- Original Message - 
From: "Geert Jan de Groot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 5:08 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Transverter TRN3 and TRN6 setup problems


On Mon, 9 May 2005 04:01:50 -0400 (EDT)  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
After setting up the TRN3 and/or TRN6 parameters in the K2 and returning 
to

normal operation, as soon as VFO knob turned the frequency on the display
go to
what seems to a randome one, AND VFO input is ignored (?) as dispaly is
"locked".  Other TRN bands (TRN1, 2, 4, 5) work OK.
I have not seen this problem quite as described, and am running the 
latest

firmware in the QRP configuration with internal tuner.   One thing that
might be happening is the initial displayed frequency might be 
uninitialized

so is randomly set out of band.  Try to use the direct frequency input
method to set the expected frequency.  (Band- and + together, enter 
digits).


Having done some experiments over the weekend myself, I definitely
found that the K2 gets confused if you change the RF frequency,
or the IF frequency.

Repeat-by: set TRN1 for 144 MHz, IF 28 MHz. Manual-enter 144.000 MHz,
Change the IF to 14 MHz. Note that the display is now off, and
the PLL is out of band (and probably out of lock, alas).

Workaround: Manual-enter the start frequency after setting up
a transverter band. Do this on both VFO's!

I don't know what code space we have in the main MCU these days
(this has been a stumbling block from 1.x to 2.x firmware, and AFAIK
code size issues are preventing some other things from being implemented),
but IMHO it would be good if the K2 would auto-reset both VFO's
if either the RF frequency, or the IF settings change.

Geert Jan

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RE: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

[EricJ]

I did the same thing, only I'm left handed, but the same idea. Because of
the finer dexterity needed for a straight key, I am forced to use my left
hand for that. I can send better with my right foot than my right hand. But
with a paddle I'm nearly ambidexterous. I switched to my right hand with a
paddle so that I could have my left hand free for writing notes, logging,
etc. But I found I can now use a paddle with either my left or right hand
with equal ease. All I have to do is reverse the paddle functions in the
keyer (dits always on the thumb).

Eric
KE6US



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Arntzen
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 1:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?


I started with straight key and sended with my writing fist then went to a
paddle , that went good.
But there is a but , I converted to send with my left fist so I could
have my writing fist ready with the pen.
This gave me more smooth operation , so today I paddle with my left fist and
straight keying with my right fist.
My left fist would never give good code with straight key because it tired
out and sounded like jamming after short while.
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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[Sverre Holm]

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Sheldon
Sent: 9. mai 2005 23:41


Picked up a couple of 5711's from our local "surplus" electronics dealer.
They appear to do the trick - hasn't glitched once since I switched out the
4148 (914) diodes.
-

Good to hear that Shottky does the trick!

The PIC16F77 datasheet is a bit overwhelming, see
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/30325b.pdf, but on page 125
it has the Input Low Voltage condition. Among them one can read "Input Low
Voltage is minimum VSS and maximum 0.8V". Then it should not be a surprise
that an input voltage in the 0.7-0.8 Volt range sometimes may cause erratic
behavior.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 

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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect"function

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

While we're on the subject, there are occasionally reports of a "reverse"
glitch too. That is, when sending with paddles using the internal keyer in
Iambic mode, instead of getting the expected alternating dit-dah (or
dah-dit) you get a steady key-down carrier as long as you squeeze the
paddles! 

That's also *normal*. To do that, the operator needs to close (squeeze) both
paddles simultaneously! The logic is set up to detect a simultaneous closure
as a straight key input so it disables the keyer logic! 

It's really quite rare. I played around with the K2's keyer (nice!) quite a
bit when I first built S/N 1289 and managed to make it happen only after
reading about it on the reflector. The closure of both paddles has to be
very nearly at the same instant. 

Ron AC7AC



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[Elecraft] WTD: Hi-Mound BK-100 Manual

[Andy GM0NWI]

Guy's

Was at a rally this weekend in the town of Irvine (Scotland). Picked up 
one of the above keys, in "good" shape, for the fantastic sum of ?10.00 
(British Pounds) at the "bring n buy/junk sale" seems to be all in 
working order, the key came with a supplied length of power lead and 
jack.also came with the "plastic" top clear see-through cover, although 
this seems in need of a little attention (looks like someone has tried to 
clean the cover in the past with some sort of "scourer"...leaving the 
plastic a little "frosted" looking).


Was wondering if anyone has a manual for this little babe...?I'm new to 
"bug" type keys of any kind, and not sure on how to set her up for operation 
properley would also like to check out that there are no defective, or 
missing parts


All costs will be reinburst

TIA ...TFBW

72s
Andy 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  "...I Just See It.!.."  John A. Ross 
(RSD Communications circa 2004)

A.R.S.
GM0NWI QRP   "..It is vain to do with 
more "A Dis-Orientated Kiwi...
"K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Air"what can be done with 
less.. In The Northern Hemisphere..."


GQRP No.9576
QRP-L No.2165
ARCI No.10561
Central Florida DX Association (CFDXA)
Alaska QRP Club No.190
Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061
ICQ No.31899603

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FW: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect"function

[Dan Barker]

OK, ok, ok. You made me look (I got to use my +2.50 diopter reading glasses
AND my big-arm, flourscent ring)!

My (hasn't ever glitched) diodes are 1N4148. I believe from Radio Shack.

http://www.junun.org/MarkIII/datasheets/1N4148.pdf

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456


Picked up a couple of 5711's


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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[Jim Sheldon]

Picked up a couple of 5711's from our local "surplus" electronics dealer.
They appear to do the trick - hasn't glitched once since I switched out the
4148 (914) diodes.

Jim

> -Original Message-
> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 4:15 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Jim Sheldon'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key 
> "Autodetect" function
> 
> 
> If Sverre's solution to the problem (Schottky diodes) is the 
> answer, then 
> the 1N5711 should work nicely... and they are pretty easy to 
> find... even 
> if you order them from Elecraft.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Tom   N0SS
> 
> At 02:14 PM 5/9/05, Sverre Holm wrote:
> >-Original Message-
> >My K2 (and I've talked with several other K2 owners with the same 
> >problem), Serial #4338, will not always detect a hand key 
> properly -- 
> >Autodetect is turned on in the menu - and I am using 2 1N914 diodes 
> >between the hand key contacts and the dot and dash inputs to 
> the K2.  
> >The keypaddles function properly at all times, but when 
> using the hand 
> >key, at random times, a key down on the hand key produces the same 
> >results as a paddle press - namely automatic dots or dashes.
> >
> >
> >I have resolved a similar problem some time ago that 
> hopefully may shed 
> >some light on your problem also. The symptom appeared similar, 
> >seemingly random keying.
> >
> >The series diodes in the autodetect circuit will make the K2 
> input no 
> >longer 0, but say 0.7 Volts (for Si diodes) when keyed. When 
> I tried to 
> >key the K2 using autodetect and the diodes from my PC via an 
> >optocoupler I got into trouble. The saturation voltage of the 
> >optocoupler was not small enough and when added to the 0.7 
> Volts, the 
> >total was not low enough for the K2 to reliably sense a key-down.
> >
> >The optocoupler (4N31) had a voltage of 0.65 to 1.8 V in 
> saturation. I 
> >lowered it by increasing the drive current in the LED, but still had 
> >almost 1.4 V (opto 0.65 + Si diode 0.7). The remedy was to 
> replace the 
> >autodetect diodes with Shottky diodes. I have several hundreds of 
> >PRLL5818 in my shack so I used one of them, but the type is not 
> >critical at all. The data says Vf < 0.33 V at I = 100 mA, so the 
> >forward voltage with the low current here is even smaller than that.
> >
> >73
> >
> >Sverre
> >LA3ZA
> >http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
> >
> >
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> >
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> >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> 

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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[Tom Hammond]

If Sverre's solution to the problem (Schottky diodes) is the answer, then 
the 1N5711 should work nicely... and they are pretty easy to find... even 
if you order them from Elecraft.


73,

Tom   N0SS

At 02:14 PM 5/9/05, Sverre Holm wrote:

-Original Message-
My K2 (and I've talked with several other K2 owners with the same problem),
Serial #4338, will not always detect a hand key properly -- Autodetect is
turned on in the menu - and I am using 2 1N914 diodes between the hand key
contacts and the dot and dash inputs to the K2.  The keypaddles function
properly at all times, but when using the hand key, at random times, a key
down on the hand key produces the same results as a paddle press - namely
automatic dots or dashes.


I have resolved a similar problem some time ago that hopefully may shed some
light on your problem also. The symptom appeared similar, seemingly random
keying.

The series diodes in the autodetect circuit will make the K2 input no longer
0, but say 0.7 Volts (for Si diodes) when keyed. When I tried to key the K2
using autodetect and the diodes from my PC via an optocoupler I got into
trouble. The saturation voltage of the optocoupler was not small enough and
when added to the 0.7 Volts, the total was not low enough for the K2 to
reliably sense a key-down.

The optocoupler (4N31) had a voltage of 0.65 to 1.8 V in saturation. I
lowered it by increasing the drive current in the LED, but still had almost
1.4 V (opto 0.65 + Si diode 0.7). The remedy was to replace the autodetect
diodes with Shottky diodes. I have several hundreds of PRLL5818 in my shack
so I used one of them, but the type is not critical at all. The data says Vf
< 0.33 V at I = 100 mA, so the forward voltage with the low current here is
even smaller than that.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/


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Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

[Tom Arntzen]

Hi John!
In 1989 we started listening to tapes with speed from 8-15wpm.
After that programs was available for pc.
For me it didn't matter what I was using.
When I went to bed I used tapes while falling asleep to have the rythm in 
the ear.

Copying cw is like training for a marathon.
Your brain has to be used to perform over time to pass a cw test.
As other gentlemen here has stated , copy cw is the most important thing.
As for methods , some like to adjust slowly up in speed , while others like 
to copy just above testspeed starting with
more space between the letters and slowly compress the spaces until normal 
is reached.

Me to would advise to buy a straight key before advancing to paddle.
I started with straight key and sended with my writing fist then went to a 
paddle , that went good.
But there is a but , I converted to send with my left fist so I could 
have my writing fist ready with the pen.
This gave me more smooth operation , so today I paddle with my left fist and 
straight keying with my right fist.
My left fist would never give good code with straight key because it tired 
out and sounded like jamming after short while.


If you have a good friend that can code a book for you into a mp3 player 
that would give you some satisfaction trying to decode it.

Also 5 by 5 letter code would be good to have.

Good luck John.
73 de LA1PHA

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 9:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?



Comrades,
I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with 
the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO 
watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things 
which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat 
we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you 
have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm 
hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.


If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, 
why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that 
what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks 
like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would 
make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.


comments?

regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave 
amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)



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RE: [Elecraft] power to remote KPA100/KAT100 question

[Sverre Holm]

-Original Message-

MY kpa 100 and kat150 don't have a power switch and they are in the separate
ec2 case when I turn the k2 on everything comes on. Or am I missing
something
-

Parts of the circuitry is on as soon as power is applied to them via the
Anderson connectors. Try turning on the K2 with the Anderson connector into
the EC2 and without it. You should see NO PA PS in the last case in the K2
display.


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 




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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[Sverre Holm]

-Original Message-
My K2 (and I've talked with several other K2 owners with the same problem),
Serial #4338, will not always detect a hand key properly -- Autodetect is
turned on in the menu - and I am using 2 1N914 diodes between the hand key
contacts and the dot and dash inputs to the K2.  The keypaddles function
properly at all times, but when using the hand key, at random times, a key
down on the hand key produces the same results as a paddle press - namely
automatic dots or dashes.  


I have resolved a similar problem some time ago that hopefully may shed some
light on your problem also. The symptom appeared similar, seemingly random
keying. 

The series diodes in the autodetect circuit will make the K2 input no longer
0, but say 0.7 Volts (for Si diodes) when keyed. When I tried to key the K2
using autodetect and the diodes from my PC via an optocoupler I got into
trouble. The saturation voltage of the optocoupler was not small enough and
when added to the 0.7 Volts, the total was not low enough for the K2 to
reliably sense a key-down.

The optocoupler (4N31) had a voltage of 0.65 to 1.8 V in saturation. I
lowered it by increasing the drive current in the LED, but still had almost
1.4 V (opto 0.65 + Si diode 0.7). The remedy was to replace the autodetect
diodes with Shottky diodes. I have several hundreds of PRLL5818 in my shack
so I used one of them, but the type is not critical at all. The data says Vf
< 0.33 V at I = 100 mA, so the forward voltage with the low current here is
even smaller than that.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 

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RE: [Elecraft] power to remote KPA100/KAT100 question

[David]

MY kpa 100 and kat150 don't have a power switch and they are in the
separate ec2 case when I turn the k2 on everything comes on. Or am I
missing something


 
 
see ya
 
73's
N1IB
David Schornak
K2 03027
www.n1ib.com
www.n1ib.com/blog/
www.n1ib.com/leather/
 
arf
don't forget me
Mis Ginger



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sverre Holm
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 3:05 PM
To: 'Tim Logan'; 'Elec-Reflector'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] power to remote KPA100/KAT100 question


-Original Message-
I am in the process of building a remote KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2
enclosure. The KAt100 is done and I am starting the amp.

I would like to have one power cord with a  "Y" connection to the KPA100
- and have the KAT100 get it's power internally in the EC2 from the
KPA/100. I would like to be able to have all three modules (the K2, the
KPA100, and
KAT100) turn on via the front on/off switch on the K2.

Is there any reason I should NOT do it this way or a preferred "power
on" sequence? Thanks folks.
-

I have also built an external KPA100/KAT100. I power them both from an
Alinco 12 V power supply (DM-330MV). The power-up sequence is: first the
KPA100 then the K2. This way the K2 CPU senses that the KPA100 is
present and adapts to that. 

There is no way you can route the KPA100 power through the K2 switch and
I would not want to try to modify the K2 to do that. Up to 20 Amps seems
to me to be way too much for that switch.


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 




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RE: [Elecraft] power to remote KPA100/KAT100 question

[Sverre Holm]

-Original Message-
I am in the process of building a remote KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2 enclosure.
The KAt100 is done and I am starting the amp.

I would like to have one power cord with a  "Y" connection to the KPA100 -
and have the KAT100 get it's power internally in the EC2 from the KPA/100. I
would like to be able to have all three modules (the K2, the KPA100, and
KAT100) turn on via the front on/off switch on the K2.

Is there any reason I should NOT do it this way or a preferred "power on"
sequence? Thanks folks.
-

I have also built an external KPA100/KAT100. I power them both from an
Alinco 12 V power supply (DM-330MV). The power-up sequence is: first the
KPA100 then the K2. This way the K2 CPU senses that the KPA100 is present
and adapts to that. 

There is no way you can route the KPA100 power through the K2 switch and I
would not want to try to modify the K2 to do that. Up to 20 Amps seems to me
to be way too much for that switch.


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 




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[Elecraft] Upcoming camping trip w/KX1

[John Harper AE5X]

After several years of trying during many business trips to Oklahoma, I've 
finally secured permission to camp in a restricted area located within a 
wildlife refuge this coming weekend (13-15 May). I will be in the Charon's 
Garden portion of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge in southern Oklahoma 
with tent, stove, camera and KX1. Antenna type is yet-to-be-determined but 
may be NVIS as this area is mostly prairie with large rock outcroppings, ie 
not ideal for a high dipole.


There are approximately 600 free-roaming buffalo & a large number of elk and 
longhorn cattle within the refuge:

http://wichitamountains.fws.gov/bison.html

73 for now,

John Harper AE5X
Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com


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[Elecraft] Hex Key Cover

[Phil LaMarche]

I received my Hex Key cover from Ernesto in PR and it is beautiful.  Very
attractive wood engraved base for the key to set on and a molded cover.
Looking for something nice, contact Ernesto.

Philip LaMarche
Instant Gourmet
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com
727-944-3226
727-937-8834 Fax
727-510-5038 Cell
NASFT # 30210
W9DVM


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[Elecraft] Fwd: re :Protecting the KX1 from short - fuse on the

[Michael Babineau]

Whoops  I meant to post this to the Elecraft list not QRP-L ...

Begin forwarded message:


From: Michael Babineau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: May 9, 2005 1:45:26 PM EDT
To: Martin Gillen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: qrp-l <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: re :Protecting the KX1 from short - fuse on the

Martin VA3SIE wrote :
> I was wondering therefore if anyone has found an
> inline fuse small enough to install on the positive battery
> lead from the internal battery holders to the PCB?

Martin :

Try Pico fuses. They look like 1/4 watt resistors.
BTW since you are also in Ottawa, I will mention that
you can buy them at Active electronics on Merivale Rd.

I used them to fuse both leads of my hombrew NiMH
pack for the FT-817, made from a 9.6V R/S RC pack.

The only issue will be protecting them from mechanical stress.
On my FT-817 I just covered them with shrink wrap tubing and taped
the lead at that point where I inserted the fuse to the side of the 
pack
so it doesn't get bent.  You may be able to secure it to the side of 
the

AA battery holder somehow.

Michael VE3WMB

P.S. I use a small Pelican case to store my KX1 when not in use and
I never worry about it rattling around in the trunk of my car or in my
bike paniers. I'll bring mine along to the next OV-QRP meeting on
Thursday to show you my setup.


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[Elecraft] k60xv - second opinion needed

[edfinn1]

All,

I am about to bring up my k60xv, mainly for the purpose of transverter 
interface. 

i just uninstalled a downeast xverter interface from my k2. i saw that i had a 
small jumper installed near j13 between two holes labelled 8T and X. i removed 
this jumper for use with the k60xv. 

i don't recall why it was jumpered, but assume it should not be there when 
using the k60xv board.

confirm/deny?

tnx,
ed wa3drc
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[Elecraft] k60xv - second opinion needed

[edfinn1]

All,

I am about to bring up my k60xv, mainly for the purpose of transverter 
interface. 

i just uninstalled a downeast xverter interface from my k2. i saw that i had a 
small jumper installed near j13 between two holes labelled 8T and X. i removed 
this jumper for use with the k60xv. 

i don't recall why it was jumpered, but assume it should not be there when 
using the k60xv board.

confirm/deny?

tnx,
ed wa3drc
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[Elecraft] Two-Band Filter Board Question

[Jim Gelbort]

Although I generally use the 4-band filter board, I intend to convert my 
K-1's (#391) original 2-band filter board to 80 & 40 meters from 40 & 20. I 
have the 80 meter component kit. Question is: Is it necessary to locate the 
80 m parts at the band 1 locations (necessitating unsoldering & relocating 
the 40 m components) or may I just remove the 20 m parts and replace with 
the 80 m values? Will the on-board I/O controller and MPU care when I 
recalibrate and perform the band specification procedures?


Any advice would be appreciated.
Tks & 73,

Jim Gelbort W9TO

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Pre-Filter Version 2

[Stewart Baker]

Hi Paul,

I have just updated my web site http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~baker/  with 
your jpg's, and photos of the Version 2 Pre-Filter. 

Best 73
Stewart G3RXQ

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[Elecraft] J-37-J44

["RC" KC5WA]

With all the talk about keys and paddles. I remembered that I had a key 
stored away. I found it late last night. It needs some serious cleaning. 
It is a J37 key by the E. Johnson Co. mounted on a J-44 Black Bakelite 
base. What do you use to clean a key and can/should this key be 
dismantled in the cleaning process.  TNX "rc" kc5wa



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[Elecraft] Nor'easter

[ron]

 Well 
Mother Nature has a way of disrupting plans.
The planned W1ACT trip to Martha's Vineyard went as planned. We arrived by
Ferry Thursday night. We set up our tents and main camper at the Gay Head
light house.
Next morning was overcast and cool. We could see 360 degrees of horizon! I
set up my QRP station using the VBWFP and AT Sprint-3.
>From my tent, I worked about a dozen stations from Canada, Europe and
stateside.

Then it started to happen. First came the winds, sustained @ 25 to 35 MPH.
After dusk, came the rain, heavy wind driven rain. During the night it
became progressively worst. During the day Saturday the rain finally stopped
but the worst of the winds was to come.
During that time we almost lost one tent (badly bruised) and one tower
(snapped at 3 places). We rode out gusts to 74 MPH! (a ham brought his wx
station). The remainder of Sunday was still windy. Thank goodness the ferry
was running so we could leave.

We did more batting down than operating. We did manage to participate in the
NE QSO 'test.  Pix will be available at W1ACT web site soon.

Ron wb1hga
"I survived the Nor'easter @ Martha's Vineyard"

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[Elecraft] Solved my dishwasher qrn problem

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

--- "Kenneth A. Christiansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I bought a Frigidaire dishwasher made by Elecvtrolux in January of 2005. 
It

is a model gld2450rds0. I did not realize it at first but it is the source
of my high QRN.


Today we got the repairman out from the store where we bought the 
dishwasher. The dishes were not being cleaned and I let the XYL do the 
complaining. I was in the ham shack and when the repairman started up the 
dishwasher after working on it over an hour there was no QRN. I asked him 
what he did and he said in the last part of 2004 they changed the design and 
used a motor with brushes in it. This motor prevented the cycles from 
changing properly and the fix was to install one of the older motors that 
did not have brushes. My noise level is now S1 instead of 10 DB over S9 so I 
am happy and having the rest of the cycles operating should do a better job 
on the dishes.


Glad to have this problem behind me.

Ken Christiansen W0CZ K2/100 sn 1031
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] K1 #2024 is alive

[Jason Artz]

I finished K1-4 #2024 on Saturday morning with the
KAT1 installed.  My first contact was with someone
working the OR QRP contest, but I, being too
nervous/excited/rusty at CW to comprehend what was
going on, didn't understand what "number" he was
requesting in order to get points for our QSO (I
needed to give him a 1 - he was my first contact in
the contest - I was his 19th).  Guess I should read
the exchange rules before jumping into a contest.  If
you're out there, please accept my apology!

My next contacts were with Alberta and Hawaii - not
bad for 5 watts and a _very_ poor antenna.  Exciting!

I still have a few adjustments to make, but all in all
I am very pleased with the rig.  I hope to get my CW
speed back up to the 25wpm I had 5 or 6 years ago.

72,
Jason
AC6XA/W7



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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[Vic Rosenthal]

Jim Sheldon wrote:


  The keypaddles function
properly at all times, but when using the hand key, at random times, a key
down on the hand key produces the same results as a paddle press - namely
automatic dots or dashes.  


I have been using autodetect successfully for some time.  My thought is that 
perhaps the forward voltage drop of the diodes is slightly different and this is 
confusing the K2.  You can check this by measuring forward resistance with your 
DVM (some actually measure voltage drop, but if not you want to match the 
measured resistances).  I used a pair of low-drop schottky diodes -- I don't 
know whether this is necesary, but I haven't had this problem.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

I have also had that occasional problem, and it seems to happen more
frequently if the key contacts are dirty.  Slip a piece of clean paper
between the contacts and close the key just enough to grip the paper gently
as you pull it through - the paper will burnish the contacts and the problem
will likely go away.  I found this out early on (just after the K2 Field
Test).  It does not seem to happen when the K2 is driven from a computer,
but will hppen occasionally when hard key contacts are used, so it must be
due to contact bounce coupled with slight propagation delay differences
through the diodes.

The other thing you can do is to match the diodes for timing (requires a
dual trace 'scope and a square wave generator)  - sometimes one diode is
slower than the other which will create a timing condition, 1N4148 diodes
are usually more consistent than 1N914s in my experience.

I am solving the problem altogether here with a K1EL K12 keyer packaged
externally.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I posted this problem several months ago and never received an answer from
> anyone on it.
>
> My K2 (and I've talked with several other K2 owners with the same
> problem),
> Serial #4338, will not always detect a hand key properly -- Autodetect is
> turned on in the menu - and I am using 2 1N914 diodes between the hand key
> contacts and the dot and dash inputs to the K2.  The keypaddles function
> properly at all times, but when using the hand key, at random times, a key
> down on the hand key produces the same results as a paddle press - namely
> automatic dots or dashes.  This has proved to be a nasty problem,
> especially
> in a contest when needing to rapidly slow down to re-send
> information.  You
> get part way through the exchange and the characters get all messed up due
> to the aforementioned erratic action.
>
>
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FW: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect"function

[Dan Barker]

Mine works fine. I don't remember the diodes I used, but they were tiny
(tiny enough to fit inside the sub-miniture jack) and work FB. I think it
was a pack of 50 from Radio Shack for a few bucks. I can lookup the type if
it matters.

I use it both ways. I use the keyer to send  when on the straight
key (unfortunately, I send that a lot!) and I use the straight key to send
exagerated elements when the copy is wrong a few times on the keyer (I can't
think of an example right now).

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456



I would really like the autodetect to work properly for just this reason.


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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[Jim Sheldon]

HI Tom,
Yes, I am aware of the ability to switch to "Hand" operation.  This, however
is a pain in the butt, especially when operating mobile in motion.  This is
one of my main types of operation, and I switch often between the hand key
and the paddles.  I would really like the autodetect to work properly for
just this reason. 

I had posted on this subject several months ago, and received no answer at
all.  This was brought to my attention at OzarkCon by several other K2
owners experiencing the same problem, and they were wondering if I had ever
received any info on it.  Mine is one of the newer ones, and I didn't write
down the calls of the others with the same problem, and I also forgot to get
serial #'s of their K2's so I could see if it was a function of the newer
firmware, or spanned several generations.  

Hopefully someone at Elecraft will read this and recall my earlier post.  

Jim - W0EB

> -Original Message-
> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 8:37 AM
> To: Jim Sheldon
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key 
> "Autodetect" function
> 
> 
> Hi Jim:
> 
> Of course, the HARD-WIRED way to fix the problem should be to 
> just go to 
> MENU and select INP HAND.
> 
> I've used my K2 in Autodetect mode for several years now and never 
> experiences the problem you mention, but most of my 
> 'external' keying is 
> from an external keyer, rather than from a hand key or a bug. 
> Though, when 
> I HAVE used a hand key or bug, I've still never had the problem.
> 
> Possibly a kludgey way to get around it might be to key a 
> single transistor 
> (better yet, a 2N7000 FET) and let the transistor output key 
> the K2. Maybe 
> add a little capacitance across the base of the transistor, 
> to slow it up 
> just a bit so any 'noise' on the hand key output might be 
> filtered out.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Tom   N0SS
> 
> 
> At 06:35 AM 5/9/05, you wrote:
> >I posted this problem several months ago and never received 
> an answer 
> >from anyone on it.
> >
> >My K2 (and I've talked with several other K2 owners with the same 
> >problem), Serial #4338, will not always detect a hand key 
> properly -- 
> >Autodetect is turned on in the menu - and I am using 2 1N914 diodes 
> >between the hand key contacts and the dot and dash inputs to 
> the K2.  
> >The keypaddles function properly at all times, but when 
> using the hand 
> >key, at random times, a key down on the hand key produces the same 
> >results as a paddle press - namely automatic dots or dashes. 
>  This has 
> >proved to be a nasty problem, especially in a contest when 
> needing to 
> >rapidly slow down to re-send information.  You get part way 
> through the 
> >exchange and the characters get all messed up due to the 
> aforementioned 
> >erratic action.
> >
> >Is there any known fix for this problem
> >
> >Would appreciate any information available on the subject.
> >
> >Jim Sheldon, W0EB
> >Wichita, KS
> >K2 #4338
> >
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Net Report for May 8-9th, 2005

[Margaret Leber]

Kevin Rock wrote:

   20 meters was almost like cotton batting in my ears but I worked 
across the continent.  Ray, as always had a great signal.  But who 
should start the net but my old (not really so old) friend Carter.  
Reminds me, I owe him a note ;)  His signal from PA was running hot.  
But then he had his linear cranked up to 100 watts so the ionosphere did 
not stand a chance! 


You had a solid signal into my QTH in Jeffersonville (about 8 miles from 
Carter's in Paoli) when the net opened. But by the time you two finished 
your exchange, you had pretty much disappeared into a deep QSB as heard 
from here, about an hour before local sunset.


Hope to have my speed up enough to participate soon, this time I was 
using the CW function of my KAMplus to follow the goings on.


73 de Maggie K3XS
editor, The PMRC Blurb http://www.phil-mont.org
K2 #1641

--
-/___.   _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress /
/(, /|  /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/
---/   / | / |  _   _   _`  _  AOPA 925383/ amid change and to  /
--/ ) /  |/  |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_  K3XS / preserve change amid/
-/ (_/   '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/
/(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/

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Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

[Rick Hampton]

Hi, John & Dan.

I started out using a straight key about the same time Dan did, but I still 
prefer using it over paddles.  I never did get the hang of using a keyer much 
past 15-20 WPM.  With the straight key, I can still send at least as fast as I 
can receive, about 25-30 WPM, and not get too tired.  The only reason I use the 
paddles on my KX1 is because they are smaller than most keys and they are 
"integral" to the unit, making them easy to store and carry.  At home, I use my 
trusty Nye Viking straight key.

Really, it's what ever floats your boat.  Good straight keys (made by Ameco, I 
think, and good enough to learn on) can still be found for less than $20 brand 
new. (http://www.youdoitelectronics.com/ the keys aren't listed, but I bought a 
pair for my kids to learn with not long ago.)  You might consider getting one 
of these and trying them.  If you like it, get a better key later.  If not, 
spring for a nice set of paddles and you still have a straight key if you want 
one.

Rick, WD8KEL

Dan KB6NU wrote:

> I started out using a straight key 33 years ago, but I see
> absolutely no reason why you shouldn't just skip the
> straight key and start using a paddle/keyer combo right
> away. Most rigs come with built-in keyers these days, and if
> your rig does not, it's very simple to buy and build one (my
> favorite is the PicoKeyer from hamgadgets.com). And in the
> worst case scenario, you can always use one side of a paddle
> as a straight key.
>
> One reason I advise people to learn to send using paddles is
> that they'll send better code right off. The second
> reason--and perhaps the most important--is that the paddle
> is so much easier the arm and wrist than a straight key.
> That makes working CW more fun, and if something is more
> fun, then you'll tend to do it more.
>
> 73!
>
> Dan KB6NU
> =
> President, ARROW Comm. Assn. (www.w8pgw.org)
> ARRL MI Section Affiliated Club Coordinator
> CW Geek - FISTS #9342
> Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Comrades,
> > I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with 
> > the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches 
> > expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which 
> > appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we 
> > live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have 
> > convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping 
> > to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.
> >
> > If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, 
> > why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that 
> > what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks 
> > like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would 
> > make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
> >
> > comments?
> >
> > regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave 
> > amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)
>
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[Elecraft] ARCBS Spookfest - Unique Contest with QRP Category

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

If you want to have some good old-fashioned fun this Halloween, check
out the ARCBS Spookfest. The Amateur Radio Covered Bridge Society will
host this unique contest. Take a look at it by clicking on the link
below.

http://www.arcbs.org/ARCBSSpookfest2005.html

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ


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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Paul Gates]

I have a shortwave radio for sale... Practically brand new... Send me email.
Paul Gates
Elecraft K1 #231
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] BC-radio?

[rckchp]

Hi Rick,

There were two mentioned, the Degen 1102 and Degen 1103, both made in China. Go 
to eham.net and see my review of the 1102 in the Product Review section. To 
purchase, go to ebay and search in the "shortwave radio" section. Feel free to 
email me direct if you need more infor or have questions.

Usual disclaimers...I have no connection with Degen or any sellers of Degen 
products..I'm just a satisfied user.

Rich  K2CPE
K2 #1102

-- Original message -- 

> As far as I remember, it was on this reflector that someone about a month 
> ago told us about a good little portable BC-radio, also suitable for casual 
> SSB- and CW-listening. 
> Please repeat its name. I am looking for such a radio to help an old , sick 
> ham. 
> Rick, OZ5RM 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] K2: Erratic action of the Hand Key "Autodetect" function

[Jim Sheldon]

I posted this problem several months ago and never received an answer from
anyone on it.  

My K2 (and I've talked with several other K2 owners with the same problem),
Serial #4338, will not always detect a hand key properly -- Autodetect is
turned on in the menu - and I am using 2 1N914 diodes between the hand key
contacts and the dot and dash inputs to the K2.  The keypaddles function
properly at all times, but when using the hand key, at random times, a key
down on the hand key produces the same results as a paddle press - namely
automatic dots or dashes.  This has proved to be a nasty problem, especially
in a contest when needing to rapidly slow down to re-send information.  You
get part way through the exchange and the characters get all messed up due
to the aforementioned erratic action.  

Is there any known fix for this problem

Would appreciate any information available on the subject.

Jim Sheldon, W0EB
Wichita, KS 
K2 #4338

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Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

[Dan KB6NU]

I started out using a straight key 33 years ago, but I see 
absolutely no reason why you shouldn't just skip the 
straight key and start using a paddle/keyer combo right 
away. Most rigs come with built-in keyers these days, and if 
your rig does not, it's very simple to buy and build one (my 
favorite is the PicoKeyer from hamgadgets.com). And in the 
worst case scenario, you can always use one side of a paddle 
as a straight key.


One reason I advise people to learn to send using paddles is 
that they'll send better code right off. The second 
reason--and perhaps the most important--is that the paddle 
is so much easier the arm and wrist than a straight key. 
That makes working CW more fun, and if something is more 
fun, then you'll tend to do it more.


73!

Dan KB6NU
=
President, ARROW Comm. Assn. (www.w8pgw.org)
ARRL MI Section Affiliated Club Coordinator
CW Geek - FISTS #9342
Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Comrades,
I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.  
 
If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
 
comments?
 
regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)


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Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

[N2EY]

In a message dated 5/8/05 3:56:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, 
> why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what 
> I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like 
> paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make 
> more 
> sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
> 

In my limited experience, using a straight key will usually help you learn 
the code in a way that other keys won't. I recommend starting out with a 
straight key, then moving on to a bug or keyer once you have mastered the code 
at a 
reasonable level.

I wouldn't bother with the MFJ unit. There are freeware programs that do the 
same thing. Or you can simply tape-record yourself sending, put the tapes 
aside for a week or so, then play the tapes back and see if *you* can copy 
them. 

Another trick is to set up your code-generating software (such as the G4FON 
package) to send a known text, then try to send in step with it.

As for the CFO: All the items you buy at this stage are learning tools. You 
wouldn't send a child to school with only half the required supplies

It's a good idea to listen to real live off-the-air code as well as the 
machine-generated stuff. Off-air code isn't always perfect - I've known more 
than a 
few new hams who could do good copy from computer-generated code but fell 
apart on the "real thing" until they had some exposure to it. 

Most of all, remember that what you're learning is a set of skills, not just 
one or two, and that it takes a variety of tools to do that job.

73 de Jim, N2EY  
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[Elecraft] KX1 power out

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

HI folks:
Basic KX1 887 came alive this past weekend.

One question: using the elecraft dummy load, my power out on both bands appears 
to be 3.5 w (c. 8.7 volts at the dummy) Should I be able to tweak this for a 
little higher output, say 4 watts?

A quick look at the archives suggested shifting the coils on toroid L2; one 
attempt at this reduced the output slightly. Should I try changing the resistor 
at R30? Any suggestions would be appreciated, or am I truly concerned about 
nothing!!!

By the way, my first four contacts on a 20m dipole were all in Italy!

Ted WB3AVD
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[Elecraft] RE: K2 Transverter TRN3 and TRN6 setup problems

[Mike Lewis]

Update - after several experiments with Ben, I have reproduced the problem 
on TRN6 100% of the time, but not on TRN3, which I have been using for a 
long time now.  I am using TRN1-4.  I turned on and played with TRN5 also, 
and tried different ADDR values on both TRN 5 and 6, but TRN 5 works fine, 
and TRN 6 always locks up when the VFO dial is moved.  Ben still has the 
problem on TRN3 for some reason.  Maybe some firmware differences? A mystery 
to be solved.


After setting up the TRN3 and/or TRN6 parameters in the K2 and returning 
to
normal operation, as soon as VFO knob turned the frequency on the display 
go to

what seems to a randome one, AND VFO input is ignored (?) as dispaly is
"locked".  Other TRN bands (TRN1, 2, 4, 5) work OK.


I have not seen this problem quite as described, and am running the latest 
firmware in the QRP configuration with internal tuner.   One thing that 
might be happening is the initial displayed frequency might be 
uninitialized so is randomly set out of band.  Try to use the direct 
frequency input method to set the expected frequency.  (Band- and + 
together, enter digits).



73,



Mike, K7MDL



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[Elecraft] BC-radio?

[R. Meilstrup]

As far as I remember, it was on this reflector that someone about a month
ago told us about a good little portable BC-radio, also suitable for casual
SSB- and CW-listening.
Please repeat its name. I am looking for such a radio to help an old , sick
ham.
Rick, OZ5RM


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[Elecraft] Re: Transverter TRN3 and TRN6 setup problems

[Geert Jan de Groot]

On Mon, 9 May 2005 04:01:50 -0400 (EDT)  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>After setting up the TRN3 and/or TRN6 parameters in the K2 and returning to
>>normal operation, as soon as VFO knob turned the frequency on the display 
>>go to
>>what seems to a randome one, AND VFO input is ignored (?) as dispaly is
>>"locked".  Other TRN bands (TRN1, 2, 4, 5) work OK.
> I have not seen this problem quite as described, and am running the latest 
> firmware in the QRP configuration with internal tuner.   One thing that 
> might be happening is the initial displayed frequency might be uninitialized 
> so is randomly set out of band.  Try to use the direct frequency input 
> method to set the expected frequency.  (Band- and + together, enter digits).

Having done some experiments over the weekend myself, I definitely
found that the K2 gets confused if you change the RF frequency,
or the IF frequency.

Repeat-by: set TRN1 for 144 MHz, IF 28 MHz. Manual-enter 144.000 MHz,
Change the IF to 14 MHz. Note that the display is now off, and 
the PLL is out of band (and probably out of lock, alas).

Workaround: Manual-enter the start frequency after setting up
a transverter band. Do this on both VFO's!

I don't know what code space we have in the main MCU these days
(this has been a stumbling block from 1.x to 2.x firmware, and AFAIK
code size issues are preventing some other things from being implemented),
but IMHO it would be good if the K2 would auto-reset both VFO's
if either the RF frequency, or the IF settings change.

Geert Jan

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