Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 birdie at 28.265 MHz
Thanks for your technical information Geoff. I was so comatose that I nearly missed your important mail. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 21:26:20 +0200, S55M wrote: Congrats Geoff! After a long time some usefull info between tons of knobs,brocoli ecc... stuff. S55M-Adi - Original Message - From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 9:17 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K2 birdie at 28.265 MHz Hi Wayne, Many thanks. Believe me I understand the design problem!! I got rid of my birdie the 'hard way' by removing the loudspeaker circuit from the KPA100's PCB and hardwiring all the way from the K2's PCB speaker connector to the speaker, and clipping a ferrite sleeve onto the ribbon cable - I am sure that you know the type. The receiver's 10m spurious responses in my case were the 2Fspur = 3Fo - IF and another 3Fspur = 4Fo + IF further down the band, where Fspur = 32.578 MHz, the bias oscillator's second harmonic frequency. Both were in the region of 7db above noise floor in a bandwidth of 1500 Hz, with a dummy load on the antenna input. I have never detected the 5Fspur = 7Fo - IF potential birdie even in a 200 Hz bandwidth. I did the removal the 'hard way' to kill all birdies that involved the bias oscillator in one shot, as other bands were affected. Again, many thanks. 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 6:21 PM Subject: Re: K2 birdie at 28.265 MHz The (-) voltage generator (oscillator) in both the KIO2 or KPA100 generates a couple of weak birdies. They will move around a bit from K2 to K2, because the birdies are the result of high harmonics of this crystal oscillator mixing with high harmonics of the K2's VCO, and the fundamental crystal frequency has a tolerance of about +/- 0.5 kHz. We attempted to position the birdies in obscure parts of the spectrum. If the 10-meter birdie happens to hit close to a beacon that you want to monitor (28.265 is in the beacon area of the band), you should be able to move it a bit by changing one capacitor in the crystal oscillator. In the KIO2 case, the best choice would be C14. It is normally 56 pF, but paralleling another 10 pF across it should shift the oscillator a kHz or two, enough to move the signal off a CW beacon. The value of C14 isn't critical; it could change +/- 20% without significantly affecting output of the oscillator. 73, Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #4970 is now a K2/100
Hi everyone, Last night, I finished building and testing the KPA100. Today, I made several QRO contacts and got good reports on the audio from the KSB2 and the Heil desk mike. K2 # 4970 also has the noise blanker, DSP filter and 160 meters installed. The DSP filter is incredible. Signals seem to just pop out of a nearly quiet background when it's on. I love this radio. It's better than my 756 pro II. The only odd things I encountered while testing the amp were: 1) on 160 M the current draw is about 27-28 amps at 100 W out, all other bands are 20 amps or less; 2) maximum attainable output on 30 meters is 68 watts; all other bands reach 100 watts + except 10 meters, which reaches about 90 watts. Other than this, the radio and all its options are working perfectly. What I am wondering about is whether or not the amp is working normally. Has anyone had the same experience Thanks and 73, John, W2GW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV50 Tx/Rx cables
I'll be completing my XV50 Transverter this week. I neglected to order a crystal oven, so while waiting on that I thought I'd start assembling the Tx/Rx cables from the XV50 to the K2's K60XV transverter adapter. In my ignorance, I thought I'd just buy four BNC plugs, some RG58 and solder up a couple of cables. As I searched for components, the plethora of choices soon overwhelmed my naive assumptions. First off, most connectors appear to be designed for cable that has been stripped to very precise dimensions. So I need a cable stripper if I'm to do the job correctly. Next, what kind of BNC connectors should I use? The K2 and the XV50 will both be indoors and adjacent to each other (right? or is there some reason they should be separated?) so weather proofing isn't a requirement but good electrical characteristics are important. Are there any guidelines for connector quality? I know, don't buy the 50 cent connectors, spend the big bucks and get the 3 dollar connectors. But the junk yard next door sells the 50 cent connectors for three dollars each. Are there manufacturers known for their quality? For their junk? I've always tended to order those items that DigiKey has in stock, assuming that those are the items most people buy and represent the best price points. The same questions asked above also apply to cabling. However, there is another major consideration. Should it be RG58, RG8 or even RG213? I assume that at the lengths needed for this application, it shouldn't make any noticeable difference, but if I invest in tools, reusability will make a huge difference, What type of coax should I choose as a baseline for home installation? I've read stories where folks have swapped out all the coax in their homes, but they never seem to say why; it's as though I was suppose to know why. Do any of you know why? About tools; there seems to be three different tools for use with coax/connectors. Cutters, strippers and crimpers. Most low cost tools appear to be dedicated to a single type of cable, others offer 'die sets' that can accommodate different cables and connectors. Any opinions, experiences and help are most welcome! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you
I have built 98 K2's to date. Let me build your radio. My prices are reasonable, and you receive a completed, tested k2 ready for fun. 73 Alan W1HYV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 100 SN 4956 For Sale (fully loaded w/ options)
If anyone is interested in buying a fully built and tested K2 I have one posted on the Ham Radio Market Website. You may be able to bargain with LA2CFAdepending on how much he is willing to let it go for. Asking prices are listed. (http://hometown.aol.com/n2zdb) Michael N2ZDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #5023 Has a Home
John W Sims, N7ON wrote: Fellow Elecrafters-- K2 #5023 has arrived. -- Congratulations John. Building it will be fun and operating it will be even more fun. We'll be anxious to hear it ON the airg. Sam, KL7V/5 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100
K2/100 Ser# 4775 is on the air and running beautifully. Dan N7DWA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions
On the surface it seems a silly question. I am considering finally purchasing one of the above, but the decision actually seems to be a struggle. So I guess I'll ask for some voices of experiences. *** What I do not need: I do not need something that will operate anything other than CW, so I don't need the ability to send SSB or the IF bandwidth to receive SSB (I love the simple variable bandwidth of my KX1). I do not need something that will operate on bands I can't get for a K1 (80-15 is fine, and I have the info on how to do 160 if I wish). I do not need power beyond what I can get from a K1 (5W is fine). I do not need computer control or direct frequency entry. *** What I have heard: I have heard some state that they actually feel that the LC VFO in the K1 is quieter and nicer than the PLL VFO in the K2. I have likewise heard some say that they feel the K1 is more sensative than the K2 (thought I do not recall why, save just personal impression). *** What I am looking for: Opinions? David, K3TUE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions
I think before we (I) can answer such a question, I would like to hear your answer to a couple of questions! (1) Why do you want another radio if you already have the nice KX-1? (2) What are you going to do with the new radio? BTW, I have the KX-1, K-1, and K-2 among other radios like the ATS-2 and ATS-3. For Fox hunting, the K-2 is my rig of choice. The K-1 is a backup/second rig that does not see much use. The KX-2 is used for portable operation now and then. The ATS-3 is used for spartan sprints. 73/72 - Mike WA8BXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 – No relay action
After success on K2#4565, KAT2, KDSP2, KNB2, KAT2, KSB2, and KPA100, I’ve hit a problem with my KAT100. No relay action at all. When I power up and connect the KAT100 and K2/KPA100, the K2 menu shows ATU and multiple ATU options submenu, the KAT100 LEDs correctly show switching between ANT1 and ANT2 and switching between HI and LOW power when the K2 power control is adjusted. But no relay action. Voltage checks show 12V on both sides of RFC2 and 5V to pin2 of U2, U3, and U4. Inspection shows no solder bridges around U1 or U2. Since the LEDs are working, seems like it’s probable the processor U1 is working OK and successfully getting its information from the K2. Likely problem would seem to be with the signal RYDATA from pin 17 of the processor to pin 3 of U2. I re-heated both these pins, with no change in results. (By the way, how is RYDATA supposed to get from U1,pin 17 to U2,pin 3? Seems like there is no board trace connecting the two.) Do I have a bad U2? It did take multiple attempts before getting its pins squared up prior to insertion in the RF board, but I had my anti-static strap on. Any suggestions? Thanks. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions
Dave, I have both, the K1 and K2. The K2 is my mobile rig and the K2 is my main shack rig. One thing to consider: If you're into chasing DX, it's a lot easier (IMHO) to work split using the K2's dual VFOs. It can be done with the K1 (I've done it myself) but it's easier to keep track of your split on the K2. 73 de Larry W2LJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions
I have both a K1 and K2, though I have very little experience with the K2, having just finished it in the last couple weeks. One of the issues I'd be thinking about is the difficulty of swapping filter boards. If you buy a 4-band K1 you can't get 80M or 160M on it. So if you want those bands you'll have to build a separate 2-band filter board. It's not hard to switch the boards when you want to switch bands, but neither is it fun. You have to remove the top, remove the ATU, remove the filter board, put in the new board, reattach the ATU, and reattach the cover. Then go to the menu and tell it what bands you just installed. It's time-consuming enough that I never do it. It's best not to overlap bands on more than one filter board (say, an 80/40 2-band board and a 40/30/20/15 4-band board). If you do that, you have to recalibrate 40m each time. So all of the above argues for the K2 if you're a band-switcher. I hang out on 40 and 20 so the K1 works fine for me. The K2 has 4 CW filters instead of 3 like the K1. While the K2 has variable rate tuning, the K1 only covers 80 KHz so it's no big deal to spin from one end of the band to the other. (You can configure it for 150 KHz but either way 10 turns gets you to the other end of the band.) The K2 requires a bigger power supply than the K1. My little 3 amp Radio Shack supply works great on the K1. The K2 at full power pulls the voltage down too much. Not a problem in my case as I'm building the KPA100 and just ordered a 30 amp power supply. Either way you'll have a great radio and a lot of fun building. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 KPA100 passed initial tests today; on to part II. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Toepfer Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 4:04 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions On the surface it seems a silly question. I am considering finally purchasing one of the above, but the decision actually seems to be a struggle. So I guess I'll ask for some voices of experiences. *** What I do not need: I do not need something that will operate anything other than CW, so I don't need the ability to send SSB or the IF bandwidth to receive SSB (I love the simple variable bandwidth of my KX1). I do not need something that will operate on bands I can't get for a K1 (80-15 is fine, and I have the info on how to do 160 if I wish). I do not need power beyond what I can get from a K1 (5W is fine). I do not need computer control or direct frequency entry. *** What I have heard: I have heard some state that they actually feel that the LC VFO in the K1 is quieter and nicer than the PLL VFO in the K2. I have likewise heard some say that they feel the K1 is more sensative than the K2 (thought I do not recall why, save just personal impression). *** What I am looking for: Opinions? David, K3TUE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KNB2 Performance
Joe, I do agree with you for the full 100%! I do have here a Ten-Tec Paragon. The same waste of money (the NB of course). I'm also the luck owner of a Drake TR7/R7. The noise blanker is FABULOUS. It would be of great help to may of us to redesign it or at least make an other version with different specs available. Evert, PA2KW K2, #4836 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Squarzini Sent: 17 July 2005 18:30 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KNB2 Performance I too have found the KNB2 lacking in most real world noise situations. I even built a second one. Yes, when you scratch Q22 it works. However, that is irrelevant. Most impulse noise on the air in my area slips right through. Compared to the FT1000 and FT736R it is a poor third. Time to redesign it. Make it plug compatible and you'll sell many. My order for KNB2-2 stands. Joe K4AA Joe Squarzini, Jr. 688 Rossmore Ct. Great Falls, VA 22066 Home (703) 759-4943 Fax (703) 759-0656 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions
I think before we (I) can answer such a question, I would like to hear your answer to a couple of questions! (1) Why do you want another radio if you already have the nice KX-1? (2) What are you going to do with the new radio? I'm looking for a nice CW transciever to experiment on. Since I have so much respect for Elecraft and I can't really get a MP+ anymore, I figured I'd go it on my own with a K1 or K2. I am attracted more to a K1 because of it's relative simplicity compared to the K2. I know the K2 is top-rated all over, but I feel that the K2 will be less useful as a learning/experimenter's platform than the K1. I know both involve the hidden aspect of u-controller firmware, but I feel that it's use is more spare and more transparent in the K1. I would like to try and not just buy a radio that I will fiddle around with in this manner described above, but one that would be worth using when I am done when I put it together the right way and use in general and not all disected on a breadboard. David, K3TUE dt . ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions
David, If you want to experiment, I would suggest the K2 rather than the K1 - the K1 being more compact is more difficult to find 'handles' to the parts you want to experiment with while the basic K2 has lots of 'wide open space' (if you add all the options, it does get tight, but you said you wanted a 'stripped down model'. The base K2 is relatively straightforward in both the transmit and receive signal paths - the complications of the firmware is in the control arena, and if you wish to experiment with the control sections, I will alter my recommendation - I figured your 'experimenting would likely be in the transmit or receive paths. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I'm looking for a nice CW transciever to experiment on. Since I have so much respect for Elecraft and I can't really get a MP+ anymore, I figured I'd go it on my own with a K1 or K2. I am attracted more to a K1 because of it's relative simplicity compared to the K2. I know the K2 is top-rated all over, but I feel that the K2 will be less useful as a learning/experimenter's platform than the K1. I know both involve the hidden aspect of u-controller firmware, but I feel that it's use is more spare and more transparent in the K1. I would like to try and not just buy a radio that I will fiddle around with in this manner described above, but one that would be worth using when I am done when I put it together the right way and use in general and not all disected on a breadboard. David, K3TUE dt . ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.0/50 - Release Date: 7/16/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.0/50 - Release Date: 7/16/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 - No Audio Except during Menu - updated
Zac, Check the voltage on U6 pin 17 while in the menu (at a time you say you can hear audio). If it goes to a higher voltage, then suspect the MCU itself, but if it stays at 0 volts, look for a short on the '/MUTE' signal line. I believe the only parts involved in this signal line are U6 pin 17, R17, C23 and the gates of Q6 and Q7. Remove the MCU and look carefully to be certain pin 17 is properly seated on the socket - not sticking out or bent under. You do have the jumpers R18 and R19 in place on the Control Board do you not? Also look for unsoldered connector pins on the connectors vetween the control board, Front panel and the RF Board. I am mystified by your report that you hear audio when you have the ATU menu active - I have found occasions when something like that appeared to be the case, but an unsoldered connector was making contact when pressure was placed on the boards, like when you press the menu button - don't overlook things of that nature. The most likely problem is an unsoldered or poorly soldered connection. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Zac Brown Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 6:03 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - No Audio Except during Menu - updated Hello, After reading thru the troubleshooting section of the manual, I reheated the solder joints at Q6 Q7. Unfortunately, nothing changed. It is as if the K2 is always muted, except when in menu mode after Atu is selected. I read thru some of the previous threads on the list related to K2s being stuck in mute. Checked U6 pin 17 - it's stuck at 0 V. Not sure how to progress at this point. Zac ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.0/50 - Release Date: 7/16/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.0/50 - Release Date: 7/16/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Y adapter for ft-817ND/Elecraft T1 and CT-62
I wonder if anyone knows where a Y adapter 8-pin mini din to two 8-pin mini din females can be found to permit two devices to be connected to the acc connector on back of the ft-817? I wish to connect my elecraft T1 auto-tuner and ct-62 cat cable at the same time. Any information will be appreciated! Thanks in Advance, Reggie k6xr in Southwest Bakersfield, CA. k2/100 4112 FT-817ND ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Balun Enclosure
Hello to all. I haven't seen much concerning an enclosure for the BL-1. Mine is shared amongst several rigs. To me it looks a bit frail when I mount it to the ant connector with a BNC coupler, kinda just hanging there with some stress on the connector. So I found in Radio Shack a Project Enclosure where the BL-1 fits pretty nicely. The RS # is 270-1803. Size is 5 x 2 1/2 x 2. See. http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq/_images/bal1.jpg http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq/_images/bal2.jpg Anyone find a nicer enclosure? tnx. for the bw. -- 73 Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM San Jose, CA http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Which wattmeter do I believe?
Just finished building KX-1 #1207 with 30m board and ATU. Nice little rig! After adjusting C9 on the KXAT-1 per the manual, I decided to compare the power output measurements obtained via the internal power sensor, a DL-1 dummy load + DMM, and using my OHR WM-2 QRP wattmeter. BTW, the supply voltage is 12.5v and I substituted a 33-ohm resistor for R30. Output before I changed R30 was about 1-watt lower across the board. Here are the final measurements, as built: Band DL-1+DMM Internal WM-2 20m2.6 3 3.7 30m3.7 4 4.7 40m3.4 4.14.3 Which wattmeter should I believe? I tend to think the DL-1 plus my Fluke digital multimeter would give me the most accurate reading, but Also, no matter how I fiddle with the spacing on L3, 20m output is always 1-watt less than on 30 and 40m. I guess this is in line with what other folks have reported. tnx 73, John Pfeifer - WL7M ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] test
Just a test - couple of earlier posts did not seem to be getting through. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 nbr 1211 on the air
Hi, Kit nbr 1211 (with all options) went together without a hitch and exceeded expectations. It's destined for backpacking in the NM mountains, on a diet of lithium batteries. Anyway, being a sideswiper (cootie) key user, I wired the KXPD1 paddles as such (both wires to the plug tip) and set keying to hnd. Despite concerns that the springs weren't stiff enough I found that it worked just fine. The sweet spot seems to be very near the end of the paddles. Has anyone else done this? If so how did you like it? Bob NW8L ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Which wattmeter do I believe?
I assume you are using the DL-1 as the load for all three tests, in which case I would have to go with the DL-1 plus DMM. The impedance error should be less than 5%, and the voltage measurement error less than that. Larry N8LP John Pfeifer wrote: Just finished building KX-1 #1207 with 30m board and ATU. Nice little rig! After adjusting C9 on the KXAT-1 per the manual, I decided to compare the power output measurements obtained via the internal power sensor, a DL-1 dummy load + DMM, and using my OHR WM-2 QRP wattmeter. BTW, the supply voltage is 12.5v and I substituted a 33-ohm resistor for R30. Output before I changed R30 was about 1-watt lower across the board. Here are the final measurements, as built: Band DL-1+DMM Internal WM-2 20m2.6 3 3.7 30m3.7 4 4.7 40m3.4 4.14.3 Which wattmeter should I believe? I tend to think the DL-1 plus my Fluke digital multimeter would give me the most accurate reading, but Also, no matter how I fiddle with the spacing on L3, 20m output is always 1-watt less than on 30 and 40m. I guess this is in line with what other folks have reported. tnx 73, John Pfeifer - WL7M ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Balun Enclosure
Not NICER, but different. I stuck mine in the traditional Altoids tin. I had to replace the PC-mounted BNC with a chassis mount type. If you don't, the hole for the BNC impinges on the cover and you have to clearance the cover which looks even more mickeymouse than putting a BL-1 in an Altoids tin. http://webpages.charter.net/ejorgens I also removed the Elecraft terminals which I never cared for as I always set up antennas with banana plugs. I wired banana jacks directly to the board. I looked around for banana jacks that would screw right into the existing terminals, but the terminals are 6-32 and the jacks are typically smaller, fine thread things. So a little more work than just cutting a couple holes, but it works fb. There is actually a 3rd hole, but I only had 2 banana jacks last night when I did all this. Besides the Cinnamon BL-1, the photo shows a similar treatment for the Wintergreen XG-1 and Spearmint DL-1. I haven't built the noise generator yet because I ran out of flavors. The only other choice is licorice and I don't like licorice. Maybe I could just throw them out...something to consider. BTW, notice the DL-1 chart in the lid which shows power levels from 50 mw to 5 watts and the corresponding Vrms. Why Altoids tins? Why not? I use the product so the enclosures are free. All these little projects stack nicely on a shelf when not in use. And visitors to the shack are intrigued even if it has become a ham cliché. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n2fq Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 4:46 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Balun Enclosure Hello to all. I haven't seen much concerning an enclosure for the BL-1. Mine is shared amongst several rigs. To me it looks a bit frail when I mount it to the ant connector with a BNC coupler, kinda just hanging there with some stress on the connector. So I found in Radio Shack a Project Enclosure where the BL-1 fits pretty nicely. The RS # is 270-1803. Size is 5 x 2 1/2 x 2. See. http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq/_images/bal1.jpg http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq/_images/bal2.jpg Anyone find a nicer enclosure? tnx. for the bw. -- 73 Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM San Jose, CA http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Which wattmeter do I believe?
John, IMHO, believe the DL-1/DMM combination first. If you have an opportunity, check the DL-1 with an antenna analyzer to see how close it actually is to 50 ohms non-reactive - that should increase your confidence level. The WM-2 when properly calibrated is speced for 5% of full scale, so if you were reading on the 10 watt scale, its reading could be off by as much as 0.5 watt, if not calibrated, it could be off even more. I find my W7EL wattmeter (predecessor to the WM-2) is optimistic in its readings (reads high) even when calibrated by the 'proper' instructions - one day I will do a better job of matching the diodes and straighten it out, but in the meantime I trust my known 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load and my 'scope or RF probe a lot more. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Just finished building KX-1 #1207 with 30m board and ATU. Nice little rig! After adjusting C9 on the KXAT-1 per the manual, I decided to compare the power output measurements obtained via the internal power sensor, a DL-1 dummy load + DMM, and using my OHR WM-2 QRP wattmeter. BTW, the supply voltage is 12.5v and I substituted a 33-ohm resistor for R30. Output before I changed R30 was about 1-watt lower across the board. Here are the final measurements, as built: Band DL-1+DMM Internal WM-2 20m2.6 3 3.7 30m3.7 4 4.7 40m3.4 4.14.3 Which wattmeter should I believe? I tend to think the DL-1 plus my Fluke digital multimeter would give me the most accurate reading, but -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.0/50 - Release Date: 7/16/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Net Report for July 17 18th, 2005
Good Evening, Twenty meters, as usual, was quieter than forty. Folks to the East of me complained a little of QSB while I had QSB on the folks West of me. But, all in all, the signals were quite good. Only N8XE popped up, got recognized, and was gone once again. On forty meters matters were much different. I heard all manner of Q codes thrown at me. Not one of them was good though :( But I did manage to work HI then FL back to back. Then up to NC (I think). Either that or K2HYD was vacationing in NY. But normally he goes down to NC. I may, or may not, have heard a /4 attached to his call but copy was quite difficult. I think I left one person calling but I could not make out a letter above the noise. Some of the others were pop up contacts where I heard them above the noise for a few moments and then they were back under it again. On to the lists. On 14051 kHz at 2300z: W0NTA - Dick - CO - K2 - 3900 Running QRP in preparation for the Fox hunt on Thursday. WU5X - Jim - AR - K2 - 3440 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 QNI #80!! W0QQS - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 VE3XL - Ric - ON - QNI #70!! Sorry to hear about your lightning damaged rig :( AH6RE - Curt - HI - KX1 - 464 moved to Hilo N8XE - Jason - OH - K2 - 3475 AA3WF - Mychael - PA - K2 - 1025 QNI #55! WA6RND - John - CA - non-EL On 7045 kHz at 0200z: W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 KO0K - Ben - OH - K2 - 3867 QNI #10 AH6RE - Curt - HI - KX1 - 464 QNI #10 KR4OW - Dave - FL - K2 - 4320 QNI #5 K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608 Just dug you out of the noise! If I missed you I am sorry. Mr. Hammond is off in Hawaii so he will be ready for some radio activity by the time next week's net rolls around I am sure. His assistance would have gleaned a few more from the aether. If there are any errors please send them to me and I will fix them both here and in the database. Thank you, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.0/50 - Release Date: 7/16/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 - some improvements ?
Hello, Some dreams on improvements for the KX1 for back packing/mountain topping. The case edges could use a ruggedized plastic surface. I find myself often operating above the tree line on granite blocks and rarely a flat surface. The case edges are getting nicked. Anyone make a plastic case that adds scratch resistance to the rig ? Big changes: Move the tuning knob toward the top edge so that ones thumb could easily tune the rig while holding the case. Put the buttons on top on the side opposite the tuning knob so one can punch the buttons with fingers of same hand holding the rig. This allows single hand operation. Offer an LCD display, hard to read the LED in direct sunlight on some random mountain peak with no shade. Add screw terminals for the antenna, one less BNC bit I need to carry up the hill. A case that was more like a pistol grip would be really sweet for mountain topping when your body is crammed into a granite crack and the fishing pole antenna is wedged nearby in a howling blow. Brian n6iz ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KNB2 Performance
Perhaps one of the design wizards that reads this list could come up with something like this http://www.ussc.com/~turner/syn_blank.html adapted for HF and the K2. My guess is that noise blanker effectiveness is directly related to the characteristics of the noise. One blanker's design specs are effective on noise with certain pulse widths and levels, whereas another noise blanker works well on eliminating noise with a different pulse width and level. This is why one rig's noise blanker works well at one QTH, but the same rig is ineffective on the noise at another QTH. Also some locations are plagued with more than one noise source, each source having quite different characteristics. Now a truly variable multistage noise blanker would be wonderful, but I suspect hard to design and costly to build. I know that this is way beyond my capabilities. But I would build one if someone could design and publish the details. A kit would be even better. :-) Darrell On July 17, 2005 09:29 am, Joe Squarzini wrote: I too have found the KNB2 lacking in most real world noise situations. I even built a second one. Yes, when you scratch Q22 it works. However, that is irrelevant. Most impulse noise on the air in my area slips right through. Compared to the FT1000 and FT736R it is a poor third. Time to redesign it. Make it plug compatible and you'll sell many. My order for KNB2-2 stands. Joe K4AA -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
