[Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
Having had several harrowing desoldering experiences over my kit building career, I read with interest the posts on the Hakko 808 - I'm on the verge of ordering one on the spot. But I have a question to anyone who has used one, especially if you've used to install your 3080 option: Does the unit come with the right tip, or do you need to order an extra? I've found a number of good internet sites to buy it, but none mention what tip if any it ships with. Thanks Mike N2HTT KX1 s/n 99 K1 s/n 566 (and probably eventually a K2 .B-) - Original Message - From: David Toepfer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, March 13, 2006 8:13 pm Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 s/n 1287 now a four-bander I have not done this yet (though I plan to), but I'll take this time to suggest the Hakko 808 desoldering gun (http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/2978). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
Hi I have the 808 and a older 706 Hakko. The 808 comes with 2 tips and they are about the right size for most of the work I do. They should be fine for any rework or option installing on a K2. I use my 808 quite a bit and the tips last about 6 months to a year, so for occasional use the two tips that come with the 808 should last a long time. I have not received my 8030 option yet but I have not started the KX1 yet so I may not need the 808 for the 8030. I have several repairs and calibrations to complete and two K2's to build before I will get to the KX1 Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 9:42 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option Having had several harrowing desoldering experiences over my kit building career, I read with interest the posts on the Hakko 808 - I'm on the verge of ordering one on the spot. But I have a question to anyone who has used one, especially if you've used to install your 3080 option: Does the unit come with the right tip, or do you need to order an extra? I've found a number of good internet sites to buy it, but none mention what tip if any it ships with. Thanks Mike N2HTT KX1 s/n 99 K1 s/n 566 (and probably eventually a K2 .B-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 with KPA/KAT Separate FS
I have a K2 with separate KPA/KAT in an EC2 case for sale and in excellent condition: K2 TRANSCEIVER s/n 4719 KPA100/KAT100 in EC2 case KSB2 SSB OPTION KIO2 RS232 I/F K160RX 160 METER KNB2 NOISE BLANKER KAF2 AUDIO FILTER FDIMP FINGER DIMPLE All cables and manuals included Price is $1600 shipped. This radio is good to go and looks really nice. Pictures available on request. Please email off the Reflector. 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar controller Kits
Hi I have kitted a batch of my Solar Controller Kits for both the low to medium power systems and high power systems. Field Day is not that far away and you can get those extra points if you are operating with solar power The new low power version uses the same circuit and PC board as my high power kit but replaces the more expensive 75 amp FET and two 8 amp shottkey diodes with a less expensive 12 amp FET and a 3 amp shottkey diode. This version also does not need the heat sink on the FET as well. I have added another couple of pages to the documentation with information on proper sizing of the battery and panel as well as a color photo of the completed board, bringing it up to six pages total. The new low power version will work with solar panels from 3 watts to 35 watts (I include information on increasing this to 70 watts) It can charge SLA batteries from 1 amp/hour to over 100 amp/hour ratings with proper sizing of the solar panel. A 3 watt Volkswagen panel, a 1 to 3 amp hour SLA battery and this controller is perfect for a KX1 or K1. For a QRP K2 a 10 to 15 watt panel and 3-7 amp battery is ideal. This controller could even run a K2/100 for several hours per day with a 30 watt panel and a 35 amp/hour battery. The price for this new low power version is $20 or $35 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. I have also been supplying the high power version of the Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to about 200 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp/hour have been used with these controllers. This kit includes the above documentation and the high power FET, diodes and heat sink to allow up to a maximum of about 200 watts of solar panels to be connected. The kit is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. The kits include a 2x3 inch silk screened and solder masked fiberglass circuit board, all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. There is also a 6 volt version available. These controllers use a precision regulator IC in an analog design that does not generate RF noise. There are no adjustments required and the assembly and check out time should be under one hour. order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 The price includes US postage Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 S/N 1599 locked VFOs issue resolved...
Hi Everyone, I thought it a good idea to update the list about my K2's locked VFOs, which I posted last week. Briefly, the A B VFOs were both locked up, each at one frequency on 20m, and ONLY on 20m. All other bands were completely normal. Neither VFO A nor B would budge from their last displayed 20m frequencies, and neither would even accept a frequency write (BAND- and BAND+ held together) without quickly reverting to the same two STUCK frequencies. The fix suggested by Scott at Elecraft was to do a system reset (any three number keys held down while powering up the K2). That saved the day. I had just completed doing the A-to-B upgrades, as well as several other mods, and had to reset the filters and other parameters anyway so nothing was lost. Scott thought that the problem was likely an EPROM error, which refused to clear without some drastic action. The reset action saved the day. 73 to all, Steve Banks K0PQ K2 S/N 1599 KX1 S/N 00267 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
Ken, Thanks for the advice, Kiesub looks to be the best price around, and they have free ground shipping too! It'll take a few days from Las Vegas to the east coast, but I'd rather spend the money on a few extra tips. I just placed an order with them. Here's the URL again: http://shop.kiesub.com/Detail.bok?no=8 73, Mike N2HTT - Original Message - From: Ken K3IU [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 11:25 am Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option Hi Mike: I recently purchased the Hakko 808-KIT/P from Kiesub Electronics. This is the URL for the kit... http://shop.kiesub.com/Detail.bok?no=8. The basic KIT comes with a Standard Nozzle 1.0mm nozzle opening (A1005). I also purchased the A1007 nozzle which has a 1.6mm opening, and a A1394 tip which has 1.0mm nozzle opening (same as standard) but is longer and thinner than the standard nozzle. It is good for getting down to tight spots on a crowded board like the KSB2. I haven't built a KX1 so I can't comment on the appropriateness of these to that use. The KIT comes in a small briefcase type container and has cleaning pins,spare filter pipe, spare ceramic filters, spare prefilters All in all, a nice package. BTW... I found that Kiesub had the best price around. Usual disclaimers...g Oh... Here is URL for Tom Hammond's (N0SS) thoughts re the Hakko... http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2002- 11/msg00747.html 73, Ken K3IU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Band data
Is it possible to access K2 band data information in order to make it available in some format to control external devices?. Thanks for any help. Jim G4NWJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Band data
Sure Jim .. it's called the KRC2 :) de w1rt/john (KRC2 user) On 3/14/06, Jim Chick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is it possible to access K2 band data information in order to make it available in some format to control external devices?. Thanks for any help. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Band data
I can answer that. By far the best way to get band data is to decode the frequency returned by an IF; serial command. Having the frequency allows you quite a bit of freedom in what you do with it, especially since you can create sub bands or segments within each band. This could be useful in determining if you are at the low or high end of a band or even outside a band. It is also FAR, FAR easier to decode than the AuxBus information... Now, having said all this, probably the easiest way to deal with it it to use a KRC2, which decodes either AuxBus or serial band data for you. You just tap into the various drivers (or the BCD output terminals) and use the information directly. On Mar 14, 2006, at 9:55 AM, Jim Chick wrote: Is it possible to access K2 band data information in order to make it available in some format to control external devices?. Thanks for any help. Jim G4NWJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] J5 question
I plan to install a digital in/output in my K2. I was lucky and found a no more used EA3BLQ digital interface. In the manual I found two ways to get AF into the interface. One is from the digital audio filter and the other from the RF board J5. As I do mainly Pactor with a Ptc-2 the better way seems to me to bypass the audio filter and get the Aux AF from J5. Is this correct? I don't want digital signal processing on the signal to the Ptc-2. The only thing I need is a 500 Hz bandpass filter for Pactor 2. I am not very savvy in electronics so I thought I better ask here before I do something stupid. According to the circuit diagram from EA3BLQ I can use Pin 1 and 3 from J5 to connect the digital interface to the K2. This interface seems to be exactly what I need - automatic switching off a eventually connected microphone is a very nice feature which I miss in mny other radios except the Kenwood TS440. btw, thanks for the input on my microphone question regarding the SM-8. all clear now. 73! de Werner OE9FWV -- Fund = give money; amentalism = mindlessness. Email powered by Pegasus Mail free at http://www.pmail.com Homepage: http://www.qsl.net/oe9fwv/ Fone +43 5522 75013 Fax +43 820 555 85 2621 Mobile +43 664 6340014 Elecraft K2 #5203 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Band data
Jack Is there some way to decode band segment info with KRC2? I don't recall seeing anything about that when I built mine. Does it take some additional utility software to set this up, assuming it's even possible. Boy, that would sure be handy. 73, Bob N6WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jack Brindle Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 10:11 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Band data I can answer that. By far the best way to get band data is to decode the frequency returned by an IF; serial command. Having the frequency allows you quite a bit of freedom in what you do with it, especially since you can create sub bands or segments within each band. This could be useful in determining if you are at the low or high end of a band or even outside a band. It is also FAR, FAR easier to decode than the AuxBus information... Now, having said all this, probably the easiest way to deal with it it to use a KRC2, which decodes either AuxBus or serial band data for you. You just tap into the various drivers (or the BCD output terminals) and use the information directly. On Mar 14, 2006, at 9:55 AM, Jim Chick wrote: Is it possible to access K2 band data information in order to make it available in some format to control external devices?. Thanks for any help. Jim G4NWJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Delaware Water Gap Hike/Radio Trip: April 15-16
Ed, WA3WSJ wrote, We plan to start the hike on the AT near the Delaware River at the NJ line. From there we will hike into the DWG also known as Worthington State Forest. We will climb the AT some 900' and camp some three miles into the Kittatinny Mountains at a campsite with a view. We should end up at an elevation just over 1300' overlooking the Delaware River. I will also hike the extra mile or so and visit Sunfish Pond as I would like to see it too. That is a beautiful hike and you will have a few great spots from which to hang an antenna. My wife and I (and Norcal 40) did this hike back in 1999 and we're looking forward to reading your report. I'll be listening for you guys. 73, John Harper AE5X Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Delaware Water Gap Hike/Radio Trip: April 15-16
Here's our trip: http://www.ae5x.com/at1.html John Harper AE5X Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Strange: KXAT1: SWR goes up, but so does forward power?? +Baluns
Hi, I recently built a W1CG low power balun (Guanella 4:1 two-core design). I'm pretty new to amateur radio and my on-air results were pretty confusing to me so I was hoping someone could help me understand what is or may be going on here: For these tests I was using an inverted vee dipole, each leg 32ft (64ft total length), fed in the center with 32ft radio shack 300 ohm twinlead, held aloft by a 20ft fiberglass fishing pole, with the ends held 6ft off the ground by fiberglass driveway markers. Rig was a KX1 with KXAT1 ATU. Forward power and SWR readings taken from the KXAT1 (ie. no external metering). I started by connecting the twinlead directly to the KX1 using a binding post to BNC adapter. I was able to tune the radio on 40m, 30m and 20m to under 1.5:1 SWR, often 1.0:1. Power out read as: 1.5W on 40m 3W on 30m 2W on 20m I then replaced the binding post to BNC adapter with the 4:1 balun. Now the SWR increased on all 3 bands: 1.8:1 on 40m. 3.2:1 on 30m. 4.2:1 on 20m. On 20m and 30m there was a noticeable attenuation of signals but 40m sounded fine. So... so far it looks like the antenna simply didn't need the impedance transformation, and has degraded all 3 bands. I gave up on 20m and 30m with the balun due to the high SWR. However the odd thing I noticed was that the forward power reported by the KXAT1 on 40m had increased to 3W! So... I established contact with a station and asked him how my signal sounded with and without the balun. Here is the summary: Without Balun: KXAT1 SWR 1.0:1 KXAT1 Forward Power 1.5W Signal report: 579 With Balun: KXAT1 SWR 1.8:1 KXAT1 Forward Power 3W Signal report: 599+ I switched the balun in and out a few times to accound for fading. So I am left confused. Why did the SWR go up if the forward power also went up? My working theory is that the antenna fairly well matched already on all 3 bands but unbalanced. Adding the 4:1 balun had two effects: (1) Impedance transformation (2) Balance the transmission line ( dipole). The impedance transformation wasn't actually required and actually placed the impedance outside the KXAT1 matching range on 20m/30m, and degraded the SWR on 40m, but the balancing of the transmission line meant more energy radiates from the dipole elements and not from the transmission line. So the data seems to be telling me that this antenna could really use a 1:1 balun. What am I missing?? :) 73 Martin. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N7ON EQP Summary
Callsign: N7ON State: Nevada Rig: K2/100 S/N 5023 Power: 100w Antennas: 80/20m--low loops; 40m--1/4w vertical. QSO's: 68 QSO points: 277 S/P/C: 46 Power mult: x1 Score: 12,742 QSO'S: 5pt 2pt 80m: 61 (7 total) 40m:18 15 (33 total) 20m:23 5 (28 total) __ QSO's:47 21 (68 total QSO's) Points: 235 42 (277 total QSO points) Multipliers: 80m: 4 40m:19 20m:23 Mults: 46 Score: 277 pts x 46 mults x 1 pwr mult = 12,742 Soapbox: Nice to work so many Elecraft operators. 21 non-Elecraft QSO's, which led to more ragchews within a short period than I've had since my Novice days. That's fine, though--it was pleasant chatting with other operators, and the EQP provided the chance to expose more ops to Elecraft gear. We're all Elecraft Ambassadors during EQP. Poor band conditions, sorry to have been forced to send No copy or Later all too frequently. I completely agree with the power multiplier--QRP stations deserve all the recognition and awards in the EQP. WD7Y was also very active, so I hope ops needing Nevada worked one of us. Speaking of EQP W.A.S., if you worked KH6/N7ON during ARRL DX CW, you worked my K2/100. Kudos to KL7CW--successful QSO's on 20m and 40m, great job from Alaska. FB EQP Elecraft signals, nary a chirp, hum, nor buzz. 73, John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Noise Generator
No electronic background, but have successfully followed excellent instructions and completed KAT100 and KPA100 and have these working in an EC2 enclosure. Not bad for a guy who cannot tell the difference between a resistor and a capacitor! Now for dumb question. I would like a noise generator, mainly for setting up CW filters, but also for SSB. Does the 2 T-Gen 2-Tone Test Oscillator work for both, and how do I connect to PC to run with Spectrogram. Thanks in advance - Larry (G0IKE) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Strange: KXAT1: SWR goes up but so does forward power?? +Baluns
Martin, Not sure if I can explain this adequately or not, but here goes. When you have a mismatch at the antenna - and you always will with 300 ohm twin lead - there is energy reflected from the ant/feedline junction. That energy is returned along the feedline to the transmitter/tuner. It must then be re-reflected back toward the antenna. When properly tuned, the tuner's impedance is such that the re-reflection occurs on the ant side of the tuner and no reflected energy is observed between the tuner and transmitter. But, when the tuner is mis-tuned, the energy goes through the tuner on to the TX, where part of it is re-reflected back toward the ant. When this happens, both the forward and reflected power will indicate as increasing, because they are. By tuning properly the reflected energy is never admitted between the tuner and the TX and is completely re-reflected at the ant side of the tuner, so the SWR meter indicates zero reflected energy. This means that the optimum point of tuning is when both the forward and reflected power are at minimum. hth 73 de dave ab9ca Martin Gillen wrote: So I am left confused. Why did the SWR go up if the forward power also went up? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Strange: KXAT1: SWR goes up, but so does forward power?? +Baluns
Martin Some basic things that can never be repeated too often. Any watt meter will only read correctly when connected to the load it is designed for. The power readings of forward power must be made into a 50 ohm resistive load. Your 4.2:1 SWR could be 210 ohm (4.2 x 50) or 12 ohms (50/4.2). The dipole will show something in the ballpark of 50 ohms. When connected to 32 ft of 300 ohm feed line, your radio and tuner will see something close to 1500-2000 ohms which is out of the range of the tuner. A 40 meter dipole will not tune well on 30 or 20. Strange as it sounds using an antenna that is not resonant on any of the bands can work better than one that is resonant on one band. Try 25 ft of wire going up the pole and 16 ft of wire laying on the ground. connect both directly to the binding post to BNC adapter and let us know how it works. Don't worry about sounding like a beginner - I've been a beginner for over 40 years and still learning. 73 John WA8KNE Martin Gillen wrote: Hi, I recently built a W1CG low power balun (Guanella 4:1 two-core design). I'm pretty new to amateur radio and my on-air results were pretty confusing to me so I was hoping someone could help me understand what is or may be going on here: For these tests I was using an inverted vee dipole, each leg 32ft (64ft total length), fed in the center with 32ft radio shack 300 ohm twinlead, held aloft by a 20ft fiberglass fishing pole, with the ends held 6ft off the ground by fiberglass driveway markers. Rig was a KX1 with KXAT1 ATU. Forward power and SWR readings taken from the KXAT1 (ie. no external metering). I started by connecting the twinlead directly to the KX1 using a binding post to BNC adapter. I was able to tune the radio on 40m, 30m and 20m to under 1.5:1 SWR, often 1.0:1. Power out read as: 1.5W on 40m 3W on 30m 2W on 20m I then replaced the binding post to BNC adapter with the 4:1 balun. Now the SWR increased on all 3 bands: 1.8:1 on 40m. 3.2:1 on 30m. 4.2:1 on 20m. On 20m and 30m there was a noticeable attenuation of signals but 40m sounded fine. So... so far it looks like the antenna simply didn't need the impedance transformation, and has degraded all 3 bands. I gave up on 20m and 30m with the balun due to the high SWR. However the odd thing I noticed was that the forward power reported by the KXAT1 on 40m had increased to 3W! So... I established contact with a station and asked him how my signal sounded with and without the balun. Here is the summary: Without Balun: KXAT1 SWR 1.0:1 KXAT1 Forward Power 1.5W Signal report: 579 With Balun: KXAT1 SWR 1.8:1 KXAT1 Forward Power 3W Signal report: 599+ I switched the balun in and out a few times to accound for fading. So I am left confused. Why did the SWR go up if the forward power also went up? My working theory is that the antenna fairly well matched already on all 3 bands but unbalanced. Adding the 4:1 balun had two effects: (1) Impedance transformation (2) Balance the transmission line ( dipole). The impedance transformation wasn't actually required and actually placed the impedance outside the KXAT1 matching range on 20m/30m, and degraded the SWR on 40m, but the balancing of the transmission line meant more energy radiates from the dipole elements and not from the transmission line. So the data seems to be telling me that this antenna could really use a 1:1 balun. What am I missing?? :) 73 Martin. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Noise Generator
Good question! The answer is no. The 2 T-Gen is useful only for inspecting the SSB output from the transmitter. The N-Gen wideband noise generator is the kit you'll want to use for aligning the IF and for setting the CW/SSB filters. On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 20:42:58 -, Larry Dodson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No electronic background, but have successfully followed excellent instructions and completed KAT100 and KPA100 and have these working in an EC2 enclosure. Not bad for a guy who cannot tell the difference between a resistor and a capacitor! Now for dumb question. I would like a noise generator, mainly for setting up CW filters, but also for SSB. Does the 2 T-Gen 2-Tone Test Oscillator work for both, and how do I connect to PC to run with Spectrogram. Thanks in advance - Larry (G0IKE) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Filter alignment once again
Hi Guys Can someone give and advice on my filter calibration on SSB, if I am on the right track. I have been looking through all the mail on filter calibration and have now got it clear, that I will use FL1 only for TX and have focused on getting the K2 to sound good (a very subjective thing I know). Then FL2-4 used for RX. FL1 are tuned by listening to the TX from K2 on my FT817 and changing the BF until the sound are good. (all of this done due to reports I have received telling that I sounded very sharp.. In audio that is J. ) FL2-4 have then been tuned based on TX from FT817 listening on K2 RX, to make the sound ok. After that the result are checked with spectrogram using the N-gen as input. The result is found in a word in the following location: http://aprs.the-jensen-dk.net/OZ1BZJK2filter.doc No my concern are as I use PSK31 a lot, if I am going to be in trouble using FL2-4 as RX filter, when FL1 are used. With the alignment I have tried here. I seem to have a issue in LSB, where I can not set the BF any lower then what it is now, but maybe ok as it sound ok. This is my second filter calibration. The first was done only using spectrogram for all filters. Thanks in advance OZ1BZJ Michael ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
In my experience, desoldering irons come with a tip, and the one they come with fits at least 99% of the desoldering jobs you'll encounter - of course you can order other ones for unusual jobs, but the one that comes with it will be just about perfect. 73 de Alex NS6Y --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Having had several harrowing desoldering experiences over my kit building career, I read with interest the posts on the Hakko 808 - I'm on the verge of ordering one on the spot. But I have a question to anyone who has used one, especially if you've used to install your 3080 option: Does the unit come with the right tip, or do you need to order an extra? I've found a number of good internet sites to buy it, but none mention what tip if any it ships with. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint Errata
Just a reminder folks that tomorrow night (Wednesday night) is the March NAQCC Sprint. In my previous announcement, I erroneously stated that there will be a certificate issued to the operator who gets the highest numeric total of SKCC membership numbers. I meant, of course (silly me), that the certificate will go to the operator who earns the highest numeric total of NAQCC membership numbers! Sorry for the confusion! 73 de Larry W2LJ NAQCC #35 SKCC #49 (You can now see why I get confused!) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
I wrote the KXB3080 manual for Elecraft as well as the original assembly procedures for the KX1 itself. I'd like to make a couple of observations about the tools recommended in the KXB3080 option manual and the upgrade process. Out of a desire for accuracy, while writing the procedures for a manual I use the tools listed in the manual, and only those tools. If I have trouble with them, I try to work out an easier build procedure or recommend different tools. I try to imagine those tools in the hands of the average builder. I get good input from the Field Testers as well. The procedures are not significantly different from any board work. The KX1 is just a little smaller and denser than most of the Elecraft kits, so you need to be a little more careful and take your time. In the case of the KXB3080, I did probably 2-1/2 KXB3080 installations/de-installations on poor ol' KX1 S/N 0004 while documenting the procedures. After all that abuse those are photos of poor ol' 0004's circuit boards in the KXB3080 manual. All of the soldering was done with a Hakko 936 soldering station and all of the desoldering was done with aid of a common spring-loaded pump desolderer as described in the recommended tools list. That was a spring-loaded desoldering pump, not a squeeze bulb or braid. I'm not saying that one might not do the job with a bulb or braid, but Wayne was quite clear and I agree that the safest route is to use a good spring-loaded desoldering pump. First you remove the part. Clipping leads, then clearing holes is always the safest way although, with care, many two-leaded parts can be removed intact. Obey the warnings about pulling on the lead before the solder is completely melted. You *can* pull the whole plated hole assembly out of the board. That can happen not just because you didn't get the solder fully melted. If, during the original assembly, you bent the leads over the edge of the solder pad to hold the part in place on the PCB, you may find yourself applying too much pressure on the pad tugging on the part trying to 'un-bend' the lead and pull it from the hole while keeping the solder molten. As long as heat is applied to the pad it is de-bonding itself from the circuit board. You do not need to save any parts that you remove from your KX1 while installing the KXB3080. Only one part in the KX1 is removed and re-installed. You move it from one side of the KX1 circuit board to the other. The KXB3080 kit includes a replacement for that part so you can clip the leads off the original. Once a part is off the board it's time to clear the hole. Now's when having both hands free is important if you're using a desoldering pump with your regular iron. It is easy to clamp the KX1 circuit board in many kinds of vices. Lacking a vise, a couple of small bean bags or a couple of books are great for propping up a board on edge when two free hands are needed. Don't forget to follow ESD precautions while handling the loose boards. It's also important to set up your work space so your arms are supported. It's very hard to work smoothly and accurately with your arms floating and all to easy to bump something with the iron. Use a 700F soldering temperature and wet the tip of the iron before touching it to the pad. Wetting the tip is important. Heat transfer is slow from a 'dry' soldering iron tip! Slow heat transfer increases the likelihood of finding a pcb solder pad stuck to the tip of your iron when you take the iron away. The more you 'cook' the pad, the more you loosen its bond to the PCB. Cock and position the pump over the pad on one side of the board, then touch the soldering iron to the other side of the board to melt the solder. Of course, choose the side of the board for your hot iron where you have the least chance of bumping into other parts and keep your eye on what you are doing with the iron. If the pump tip slips, it won't hurt anything. Not so with the hot iron. As soon as the solder melts, often no more than 1 second after touching the tip to the pad, press the pump trigger and whack! you have a clean-as-new hole in the solder pad. The time you have the iron on the pad is much shorter if you've clipped the component leads because there's no component there to soak up the heat. Still, a pad attached to the ground plane may take a little longer. Don't bother to remove the soldering iron tip before you press the pump trigger. Do them together or hit the trigger then remove the iron if that's easier. As you remove the iron, do *not* look at the pad. Watch where you're waving that hot iron tip until it's safely away from the circuit board G. Suppose you do pull your iron off of the pad and see the little donut of a pad stuck to it? If that's all that's there, you're rig is fine. It's a warning that you're using too much heat or, most likely, taking too much time. The plated-through section of the hole and the pad on the other side that connects to a circuit trace are still intact. There is
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
When all else fails, if you can melt the solder, pull out the part while keeping the solder hot and melted (keep the iron on the component pin while pulling igently/i on the part to be removed) then clean up the hole with a little braid, you're good. This is how I installed my 30m module, twice! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 14, 2006, at 8:39 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: That was a spring-loaded desoldering pump, not a squeeze bulb or braid. I'm not saying that one might not do the job with a bulb or braid, but Wayne was quite clear and I agree that the safest route is to use a good spring-loaded desoldering pump. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FDIM and Hamvention
Two months, three days, seven+ hours to go Nine weekends to go 64 days to go 1,543 hours to go 92,630 minutes to go Over 5 1/2 million seconds to FDIM! There are still rooms available. You can get a look at the impressive list of who is going to be there at www.usol.com/~k8dd/rooms/rooms.htm FDIM information is available at fdim.qrparci.org Hamvention information is available at www.hamvention.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
Hi guys, The Hakko 808 looks very much to me like the Denon Instruments Co. Ltd. SC-7000 desoldering tool. I wonder if there is some tie up between Hakko and Denon? Anyway the point of this post is that I find the SC-7000 excellent for desoldering stuff on PC boards. Continuous vacuum, and controllable tip temperature are the two major features of the SC-7000. Do be quick when using it, as lingering too long can result in a copper pad being lifted off the board. However, it is not so good on glowbug stuff where components are soldered to tag strips or tube bases, and the volume of solder to be removed is much greater than on the typical PC board. Under these circumstances the vacuum tends to die because the slots in the plastic separator in front of the filter get quickly clogged. Then the nozzle fills with solder. A desoldering tool that handles the glowbug stuff a bit better is the very inexpensive GC Electronics Solder Popper (about USD37.00). I also have one of these. It consists of a manual desoldering pump mounted on a soldering iron with a hollow tip. Simple, inexpensive, and it works well. FWIW! 73 Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP -- Kevin B. G. Luxford [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
