[Elecraft] Re: (Elecraft) First K2 question
Just to add one more suggestion to the ones already offered about organizing your build. In addition to the parts sorting and inventory, I made an enlarged (11x17) copy of the schematics. As each part was installed I used a highlighter pen to mark that component on the schematic. Not only did that serve as one more cross-check, but in addition to a physical sense of the part location I also gained some insight as to its purpose in the circuit. 73 Jim N5IB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Amplifier for use with Heil products and K2
Charlie When the SSB adaptor came out there was a small circuit board offered by I believe the Arazonia Scorpions group that attached to the mic configuration header. Been a while so I may have some of the details wrong the group can correct me, but I used it and it worked FB. You should be able to Google it and find the circuit. Tim W4YN > >Message: 2 >Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:39:37 - >From: "Charlie, W0YG" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifier for use with Heil products and K2 >To: "Elecraft Reflector" >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > >What amplifier is recommended for use with a Heil headset with the #5 >element? I seem to be missing this in the discussions currently ongoing. > >Thanks and 73, > >Charlie, W0YG..>> Tim O'Rourke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Low Power Amateur Radio Rocks Member of Flying Pigs,ARCI,GQRP,RSGB,ARRL Life Member NHRA Life Member ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: (Elecraft) First K2 question
Craig, I use a similar method to yours despite being encouraged to be more inventory minded. The only issue I have had so far, soldering... sometimes I miss a lead after populating, even though I check at least twice! I have investing in some better magnifying glasses and lights along with an in circuit component checker just to speed things up. Building to me is akin to knitting I would suppose. I would not care for the latter though. I have only found one part missing, a resistor, for which I had a spare in my own parts bin. No Biggie given the amount of kit building I have done. Bill K9YEQ K2-35 & 5279; KX1-35/3080 ___ -Original Message- Just to keep the universe in balance let me suggest the complete opposite technique: I separate the parts by type (resistors, capacitors, diodes, etc.). I don't do an inventory (Christine usually does a really, really good job) but I do make sure I have the right part in my hand before soldering. While I've messed up some other things (put a electrolytic cap in backwards but fortunately none of the smoke got out) I haven't had a problem with this method. To each his own, of course. IMHO, YMMV, etc. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2/100 #4941 KX1 #1499 KX1 #1541 (still in the box) K1 #?? (in the postal system somewhere) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Building and inventorying
One other simple thing I do... I have an electronic tweezers and all resistors and capacitors get a quick check before inserting. It is fast a surefooted. I like the corrugated box sorting method, especially when doing something as big as the K2. Otherwise, back to the pile and use method. Bill K9YEQ K2-35 & 5279; KX1-35/3080 ___ ..than putting the components in bins or taping them to a sheet of paper, but then Your Mileage May Vary - organize the components in ny way that you can easily access them when needed, that is more important than the precise method of accomplishing that goal. Fortunately, the base K2 now packages the resistors in assembly step order on a strip, so you do not have to sort the resistors as we did in the earlier days. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: (Elecraft) First K2 question
Joseph Trombino Jr wrote: Howdy Gang: I've built a bunch of kits over the years and the following technique works very well for me and keeps me from messing up...it is a bit labor intensive but it has proved to be foolproof for me (me being the fool or course:) I get sheet of legal size paper and write down the numbers of the components.i.e., R1, R2, C1 C2, etc, I do all the resistors and then the capacitors. I tape all the resistors and caps next to their designator on the paper. When I install a part I cross its number off of the list. I do this for diodes, transistors, toroids, etcnot the spare chassis parts though (grin) I can then tell when all those values have been used up and if I have any extra left over...meaning I made a mistake with another part and I can go looking for my mistake. It takes some time to do this but I find it much better than putting parts in certain containers by value.with my system I can tell if I have installed the correct number of a particular part value. Maybe not for everyone cause it is labor intensive but I find the kits go together faster and with much fewer mistakes with this system. 73, Joe W2KJ I QRP, therefore, I am Hi Joe, I last built an AT Sprint 3 kit. It is a complete radio and there are a lot of parts in plastic bags. Instructions are clear to NOT OPEN THE CAPACITORS because they are not marked! When we get to mounting the capacitors you dump a sack into a desert dish and then install all 18 of them. Then open another bag into the dish and carry on until all the capacitors are mounted. This dish method worked fine and the components are surface mount type. But you need to get the dishes when the wife is not looking :-) 73 Karl K5DI ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
Hi Bill: I just ordered mine and a question has already popped up in my fevered brain. Since the parts are arranged in different bags, one for each board, does it make sense to inventory and separate parts for each board? In other words, inventory and separate the control board parts and then finish the board. Once done, then proceed to an inventory/separation/finish of the front panel board and then so on. It seems to me it would cut down on clutter from parts that are not yet needed and create more usable space on my workdesk. For the K2, many, if not all of the resistors will come on a reel, in the order to be used. This cuts down on the inventory pretty significantly. Were it me, I'd perform an inventory of ALL components of the K2 BEFORE beginning assembly. This way, should anything be missing, you can request a replacement and still have it in time for timely installation. Elecraft is usually good to respond within 24 hours of receipt of your request. The inventory can be performed on a per-bag basis, so you don't get things mixed up and possibly out of order. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] First K2 question
Hi! As a previous builder of MANY Heathkits, 2 or 3 good sized Boats, a 3-car PoleBarn, a couple of Homes, and most recently K2 # 5422 - I had success with these methods: Assumption: Elecraft's Christine and the other very smart Techs, rarely if ever seem to mispackage or short items from the various K2 section packages. I think in K2 # 5422 - I was short 1 small diode. 0. Get yourself a good set of basic TOOLS; a solder sucker, a good pair of small flush-cut dikes, a sharp knife, small tweezers, and very good low-rosin Kester Solder. A good sized hand magnifiying glass. Some rubber bands. Throw the de-solder braid, in the trash can. A good solder-station - can be found for $25. A good basic digital VOM, with C's measurent capability, also like $25. A jar of alcohol. Nice clean rag. Anti-static desk mat, wrist-strap. A good desk lamp. 00. Inventory MAJOR SECTIONS - are the PCB board there, are there bags for each section, etc. Are the chasis metal parts there? 1. Buy the Mr. TOROID Guy's toroid set, for your Elecraft kit. He does a much better job of building these critical L parts, than we will probably do. I felt this was the single most important decision I did - when I built K2 # 5422. If one is the least tired, or rushed - and trys to wind an important L toroid - good luck! Screwing just 1 up - will cause you all sorts of troubleshooting time. And mis-wound toroids may give you a K2 that may never really stack up among the best performers. 2. DO NOT do a complete INVENTORY of all the Elecraft Parts, when you start. I know this sounds dumb, but the chance of homogenizing all the parts together is too tempting and too possible. The risk of breaking or loosing parts is also risky. The risk of handling all those parts, probably without any static protection, could ruin semiconductor parts. I've felt it is very risky to attempt to INVENTORY all the K2 parts, at the start. First you probably haven't the foggiest which part is for what. And if you loose or homogenize them together - GOOD LUCK! (I'm still searching for that 1 small diode, that I had at the onset - but which vanished 3 weeks later) 3. Concentrate on building each K2 section alone. Work on it, check it, test it, perform whatever checks the manual calls for. The manual technique is organized that way. 4. Sort out those parts needed for that ONE SECTION, into small ceramic bowls: capacitors, diodes, resistors take care of themselves, mechanical fasteners, wire items, IC's & transistors, and misc devices. Have a "mechanical" bowl. As you near the completion of each K2 section - attempt to determine if you have any missing or broken parts to replace. GET THOSE ORDERS into Elecraft, and request FIRST CLASS US POSTAL delivery. The $5 postal fee is well worth it! Do this part-order process, like 5 days before you expect to complete a given section. 5. DO NOT use use Styrofoam containers to store parts - I tend to think this stuff stores static charge (Q), and can ruin semiconductor parts POW. Putting parts and devices into holes in cardboard - was not productive for me. If you sort into ceramic bowls - it forces you to recognize those parts you have to work with, and you will quickly learn the physical appearance of all these many many different parts. You will know what a "103" is, a "2N4446" is, etc. 5 or 6 ceramic bowls works. When the bowl(s) are empty - hopefully you are at the end of a build section, in the manual. 6. If you must retrace yourself, and install missing or broken parts in a previous kit section - make some notes in your manual, to point your way for going back - when the Elecraft parts package arrives. 7. By all means, take your time. Perhaps 2 hour sints at the most. If you start getting groggy or tired, you concentration will vanish - and mistakes will happen. EXPECT to make some builder mistakes. We are all human. 8. Enjoy the project - heck, we could probably buy a completed transceiver for a similiar price, and save the hundred hours it takes to build a K2. But, you will end up with an inferior commercial product, and one that you haven't the foggiest idea of how it's built or how it performs and operates. Melted solder smells good! :) Enjoy - Fred & 73's ... hit my thumb with my hammer, more than once! N3CSY FL, NY 8/2006 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: (Elecraft) First K2 question
To Whom This May Concern, Sounds like a great idea. But I have one concern. Paper is a wonderful generator of static electricity. Or least this was drummed into me many time at work. Be sure to use proper esd procedures and be careful with paper. Good luck. 73, Steve Brandt N7VS > Howdy Gang: > > I've built a bunch of kits over the years and the following technique works > very well for me and keeps me from messing up...it is a bit labor intensive > but it has proved to be foolproof for me (me being the fool or course:) > > I get sheet of legal size paper and write down the numbers of the > components.i.e., R1, R2, C1 C2, etc, I do all the resistors and then the > capacitors. > > I tape all the resistors and caps next to their designator on the paper. > > When I install a part I cross its number off of the list. > > I do this for diodes, transistors, toroids, etcnot the spare chassis > parts though (grin) > > I can then tell when all those values have been used up and if I have any > extra left over...meaning I made a mistake with another part and I can go > looking for my mistake. > > It takes some time to do this but I find it much better than putting parts > in certain containers by value.with my system I can tell if I have > installed the correct number of a particular part value. > > Maybe not for everyone cause it is labor intensive but I find the kits go > together faster and with much fewer mistakes with this system. > > 73, Joe W2KJ > I QRP, therefore, I am ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Status of Linear Amplifiers
Anyone know the approval status or distribution staus of the amplifiers shown at Dayton? Ed Lambert KD3Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
Tom Hammond wrote: Were it me, I'd perform an inventory of ALL components of the K2 BEFORE beginning assembly. This way, should anything be missing, you can request a replacement and still have it in time for timely installation. Elecraft is usually good to respond within 24 hours of receipt of your request. This comes up regularly, but for the benefit of the new builders, it's worth repeating. I agree with Tom but would also add that the process of looking at the parts and deciding which is which during the inventory makes it much less likely that you will install the wrong part later. And the time spent inventorying will be mostly made up when you don't need to search for a part during construction. Having everything easily accessible makes the building flow more smoothly, too. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
Fred (FL) wrote: 1. Buy the Mr. TOROID Guy's toroid set, for your Elecraft kit. He does a much better job of building these critical L parts, than we will probably do. I felt this was the single most important decision I did - when I built K2 # 5422. If one is the least tired, or rushed - and trys to wind an important L toroid - good luck! Screwing just 1 up - will cause you all sorts of troubleshooting time. And mis-wound toroids may give you a K2 that may never really stack up among the best performers. Well...Mr Toroid Guy does a good job and his toroids are very neat. But this makes it sound like winding them requires special skill or is very critical. Not so! Just remember that each pass through the hole is one turn, try to space the windings as explained in the instructions, and strip the leads properly. Even if they don't come out as neat as they might, they will work fine if you follow the instructions. This is absolutely not rocket science or voodoo, and not too hard either! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
I didn't do an inventory as such, but I found it useful to sort the capacitors by value and type, which made actual assembly much less hassle. I used a big flat chunk of conductive foam left over from my HP days, and inserted the leads. 73, doug ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
G'day, Life is too short for all this inventory paranoia. I just read the manuals right through, identify the unusual looking bits in the parts list pictures, sort the caps into paper bun cases 102, 103, etc and get on with it, installing and soldering one piece at a time, checking for correct component, location, orientation and the subsequent joints with a magnifier and ticking the action off in the manual. No problems with K2 #1400, KAT2, KNB2, KSB2(x2), K60XV, KDSP2, KAF2, KIO2, K160RX, KPA100, KAT100, wound my own toroids, don't have a solder pot, no fancy desoldering kit just a hand operated solder sucker, no static problems. I could go on. Sometimes this kit making is turned into too big a deal. FOLLOW THE MANUAL TO LITERAL THE WORD. If you find a gap for R6 and the manual hasn't told you to install it yet then it shouldn't be installed until told to. Don't try to out guess things. The folks who sorted the manuals did a great job. Now back to sleep. Regards, Mike VP8NO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] First K2 question
I didn't inventory my K2, just built it. Then I hit the stage of installing caps into the RF board. Lots of caps. I spread them out on the bench, sorted into groups and made sure I could ID each one. That was very useful so I could make sure I had the right ones. Once that was done I went back to my non-inventoried ways. Rig works great. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Sand/scrape mechanical connection points on EC2 case?
Dear Elecrafters, Do I need to sand or scrape the points where the EC2 panels join together so that the whole case forms a continuous Faraday cage? This seems to be done in the K2's case, but the EC2 case doesn't have the bare metal masked areas seen on the K2 case. What do you think? Thanks and 73, Ken Rice K3VV Coopersburg, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
And, actually, a lot of fun. Doug W6JD -- Original message -- From: Vic K2VCO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Fred (FL) wrote: > > > 1. Buy the Mr. TOROID Guy's toroid set, for your > > Elecraft kit. He does a much better job of building > > these critical L parts, than we will probably do. > > I felt this was the single most important decision I > > did - when I built K2 # 5422. If one is the least > > tired, or rushed - and trys to wind an important L > > toroid - good luck! Screwing just 1 up - will cause > > you all sorts of troubleshooting time. And mis-wound > > toroids may give you a K2 that may never really stack > > up among the best performers. > > Well...Mr Toroid Guy does a good job and his toroids are very neat. But > this makes it sound like winding them requires special skill or is very > critical. Not so! Just remember that each pass through the hole is one > turn, try to space the windings as explained in the instructions, and > strip the leads properly. > > Even if they don't come out as neat as they might, they will work fine > if you follow the instructions. This is absolutely not rocket science > or voodoo, and not too hard either! > -- > 73, > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Software access to the real time clock in the KAF2
Hi Does anyone know an easy way to access the time/ date info on the real time clock through software (apart from simulating the key presses in software that is) ? Thanks Bob G3PJT -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.9/417 - Release Date: 8/11/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
Vic K2VCO wrote: Even if they don't come out as neat as they might, they will work fine if you follow the instructions. This is absolutely not rocket science or voodoo, and not too hard either! The nice thing about toroidal inductors is that their inductance is less sensitive to the "esthetics" of the winding than with solonoidal inductors. Each pass through the donut hole counts as a "turn" so when you first stick the end of the wire through the hole to start winding, you've already put one turn on. When you bring the long end around the core and stick it back through, you have two turns on although only one shows on the outside of the core. Wanting "The Full K2 Experience," I did all of mine myself. Elecraft gives you plenty of wire for a do-over or two, the lengths they tell you to start with are all more than sufficient, and all but one have a civilized number of turns with civilized wire size (the one with many turns of very fine wire comes pre-wound for you). The only problem I had stemmed from the apparent fact that the illustrations (and board placement) are intrinsically right-handed. I'm left-handed and my first try looked really good, however the leads didn't line up with the holes in the board when the core was positioned over the silk screened outline. They didn't on the do-over either. I watched my right-handed wife do it (her's came out correct) and I decided to just adapt and wind them all like she did (we lefties are used to the tyranny of the right-handers) [Small digression: News story a couple of days ago in the Sacramento Bee revealed that college-educated left-handed males on average will make 15% more money in their lifetime than college-educated right-handed males. So there! My wife read the story and said, "What did you do with your 15%?"] Be very careful and deliberate with T5. It has two windings and the direction of each winding is critical. And it is far easier to do the "Solder-blob heat stripping" than it is to describe it. I agree with Vic, the toroids are a paper tiger, and are not rocket science. OTOH: I've seen Mychael's and they *do* look a little better than mine! I'd be surprised if his K2 works any better than mine, however. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXB3080 problem
Hi Folks! I build KX1 sn/1519 and it worked great! I finished building up the KXB3080 and installed it last night. All the tests were fine as I went along in the build. However, when I try to peak the receiver, I'm not getting any signals. I don't have an XG1 or 2, although I might need one! Also, it doesn't make any difference where I set the RF Gain control, and I'm thinking that's significant. I've looked for the obvious shorts and incorrectly installed parts but can't find any. I'd appreciate any help. I usually get just the digest, so if you want to respond direct, please do so. Thanks a lot!!! Jim Ujcik, WD9HBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem
I had a similar problem (not no signals, just no pronounced peak) when I was trying to use an antenna through a balun. When I removed the balun the issue was resolved. The peaks were much more pronounced. David, k3tue . --- Soaring Eagles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi Folks! > > I build KX1 sn/1519 and it worked great! I finished building up the KXB3080 > and installed it last night. All the tests were fine as I went along in the > build. However, when I try to peak the receiver, I'm not getting any > signals. I don't have an XG1 or 2, although I might need one! Also, > it doesn't make any difference where I set the RF Gain control, and I'm > thinking that's significant. I've looked for the obvious shorts and > incorrectly installed parts but can't find any. > > I'd appreciate any help. I usually get just the digest, so if you want to > respond direct, please do so. > > Thanks a lot!!! > > Jim Ujcik, WD9HBC > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Sand/scrape mechanical connection points on EC2 case?
Ken, The answer to that will depend on what you put into the EC2 case - an external speaker will not need it, but an RF Amp will. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Do I need to sand or scrape the points where the EC2 panels join > together so > that the whole case forms a continuous Faraday cage? > > This seems to be done in the K2's case, but the EC2 case doesn't have the > bare metal masked areas seen on the K2 case. > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem
Jim, One thing that will cause that problem is if the 'D' and '5' wires are interchanged - they should cross over each other (guess how I discovered that ) Did you make the PC trace cut on the KX1 board? Is T2 wound correctly and installed properly? - it should look like the photos. Were the toroid leads properly stripped? The unstripped lead length is rather critical in the KXB3080, but the proper lengths are indicated in the manual. Did you place the 'A' and 'B' wires as indicated in the manual? - they are mixed on the KXB3080 board, so the wire marked A on the KXB3080 goes to the B position on the KX1 board, etc. Have you checked transmmit yet? If you get proper RF output, you can be reasonably certain that the Low Pass Filter is OK, but if you find no or low power on transmit, look at the Low Pass Filter for the problem. The LPF (and the DDS) are the only components shared by both the receiver and the transmitter. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I build KX1 sn/1519 and it worked great! I finished building up > the KXB3080 > and installed it last night. All the tests were fine as I went > along in the > build. However, when I try to peak the receiver, I'm not getting any > signals. I don't have an XG1 or 2, although I might need one! > Also, > it doesn't make any difference where I set the RF Gain control, and I'm > thinking that's significant. I've looked for the obvious shorts and > incorrectly installed parts but can't find any. > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem
Building the KXB3080 is like that old game where the teacher gives everyone a piece of paper where the first instruction was "Read all instructions before doing anything". There'd be all kinds of instructions like "stand up and sing the national anthem" and "yell out the name of the person next to you". Then the last instruction was "Don't do any of the instructions above. Write your name on the top of the paper and hand it back to the instructor." The whole thing was an exercise in following instructions. With its mislabelled pads, cut traces, wires that cross each other, torroids that are mirror images of each other but with exact yet different strip-lengths, the KXB3080 is probably the most challenging Elecraft kit to get right. Not to mention the gymnastics required to install it without shorting that one wire that has to cross behind the board without shorting to the pad right next to it. And making it fit under the ATU. I love it. :-) Craig NZ0R -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 4:00 PM To: Soaring Eagles; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem Jim, One thing that will cause that problem is if the 'D' and '5' wires are interchanged - they should cross over each other (guess how I discovered that ) Did you make the PC trace cut on the KX1 board? Is T2 wound correctly and installed properly? - it should look like the photos. Were the toroid leads properly stripped? The unstripped lead length is rather critical in the KXB3080, but the proper lengths are indicated in the manual. Did you place the 'A' and 'B' wires as indicated in the manual? - they are mixed on the KXB3080 board, so the wire marked A on the KXB3080 goes to the B position on the KX1 board, etc. Have you checked transmmit yet? If you get proper RF output, you can be reasonably certain that the Low Pass Filter is OK, but if you find no or low power on transmit, look at the Low Pass Filter for the problem. The LPF (and the DDS) are the only components shared by both the receiver and the transmitter. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I build KX1 sn/1519 and it worked great! I finished building up > the KXB3080 > and installed it last night. All the tests were fine as I went > along in the > build. However, when I try to peak the receiver, I'm not getting any > signals. I don't have an XG1 or 2, although I might need one! > Also, > it doesn't make any difference where I set the RF Gain control, and I'm > thinking that's significant. I've looked for the obvious shorts and > incorrectly installed parts but can't find any. > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
Fred: The only problem I had stemmed from the apparent fact that the illustrations (and board placement) are intrinsically right-handed. I'm left-handed and my first try looked really good, however the leads didn't line up with the holes in the board when the core was positioned over the silk screened outline. They didn't on the do-over either. I watched my right-handed wife do it (her's came out correct) and I decided to just adapt and wind them all like she did (we lefties are used to the tyranny of the right-handers) I'm extremely left-handed as well. Hence, I put all the push button softkey switches for the Z90 panadapter on the LEFT side of the LCD...It works a lot better for me than having them on the right hand side. So far, no one has commented on that, which might mean that hams are (a) unobservant or (b) all left-handed as well. Jack ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Aug 17 - Sep18, 2006
~~~ N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR August 17 - September 18, 2006 ~~~ Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW UTC: August 18, 0100z to 0229z EDT: August 17, 9 PM to 1029 PM Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/ ~~~ SARTG WW RTTY Contest ... Low Power Category Aug 19, z to 0800z Aug 19, 1600z to 2400z Aug 20, 0800z to 1600z Rules: http://www.sartg.com/contest/wwrules.htm ~~~ QRP ARCI Silent Key Memorial Contest (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Aug 19, 1500z to 1800z Rules: http://www.qrparci.org ~~~ BUBBA Summer QRP Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! *** Aug 19, 1600z to 2200z Rules: http://www.azscqrpions.org ~~~ North American QSO Party (SSB) ... 100W Max. (/QRP noted on entry) Aug 19, 1800z to Aug 20, 0600z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php ~~~ NJ QSO Party (CW/SSB) Aug 19, 2000z to Aug 20, 0700z Aug 20, 1300z to Aug 21, 0200z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/w2rj/ ~~~ RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST *** EDT: Aug 20, 9 PM to 11 PM UTC: Aug 21, 0100z 0300z Rules: http://fpqrp.com ~~~ Hawaii QSO Party (CW/SSB/Digital) ... QRP Category Aug 26, 0700z to Aug 27, 2200z Rules: http://www.karc.us/hi_qso_party.html ~~~ Ohio QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Aug 26, 1600z to Aug 27, 0400z Rules: http://www.oqp.us/ ~~~ SLOVENIA CONTEST CLUB RTTY Championship .. 100W Category Aug 26, 1200z to Aug 27, 1159z Rules: http://lea.hamradio.si/~scc/rtty/htmlrules.htm ~~~ Colorado QRP Club Summer VHF/UHF QSO Party (CW/SSB/FM) Aug 27, 1600z to 2000z Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/index.htm ~~~ QRP BARBERSHOP QUARTET CONTEST (CW QRP)... QRP Contest! Aug 30, 9 PM to 11 PM EDT Rules: http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm ~~~ Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Sep 02, 0400z to 0600z Rules: http://www.qrp.ru/sprint_e.htm ~~~ IARU Region 1 Fieldday (SSB)... QRP Category Sep 02, 1300z to Sep 03, 1300z Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/iarur1fd.htm ~~~ AGCW Straight Key Party (CW - 40 Meters) ... QRP Category Sep 02, 1300z to 1600z Rules: http://www.agcw.org/agcw-con/2006/Englisch/htp_e.htm ~~~ Michigan QRP Labor Day Sprint (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Sep 04, 2300z to Sep 05, 0300z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html ~~~ Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Sep 05, 0100z to 0300z (First Monday 9 PM EDT) Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/ ~~~ FISTS G3ZQS Memorial Straight Key Contest ... QRP Category Sep 08, 2300z to Sep 10, 2300z Rules: http://www.fists.org/straightkey.html ~~~ Worked All Europe DX Contest (SSB) 100W Power Category Sep 09, z to Sep 10, 2400z Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/fedcw.htm ~~~ Swiss HTC QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Sep 09, 1300z to 1900z Rules: http://www.htc.ch/de/htc_sprint_contest.htm or: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/htcqrpsp.htm ~~~ ARRL September VHF QSO Party (All) Low Power Category Sep 09, 1800z to Sep 11, 0300z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006 ~~~ Second Class Operator Club Marathon (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Sep 09, 1800z to 2400z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/soc/contests.htm#top ~~~ NA Sprint (CW)... QRP Category Sep 10, z to 0400z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php ~~~ Tennessee QSO Party (SSB/CW/Dig) ... QRP Category Sep 10, 1800z to Sep 11, 0100z Rules: http://www.k4ro.net/tcg.html ~~~ End of Summer PSK31 Sprint *** QRP Contest *** Sep 10, 2000z to 2400z Rules: h
RE: [Elecraft] First K2 question
I never thought of it as lefthanded or righthanded, I just hold the core in my right hand and 'sew' the wire downward through the hole with my more agile left hand - I can see the turns better than winding fro the bottom up. The 'righties' would hold the core in the left hand and 'sew' the wire upward though the core center to produce the same thing. I do not believe I have gotten my 15% yet either 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > The only problem I had stemmed from the apparent fact that the > illustrations (and board placement) are intrinsically right-handed. I'm > left-handed and my first try looked really good, however the leads > didn't line up with the holes in the board when the core was positioned > over the silk screened outline. They didn't on the do-over either. I > watched my right-handed wife do it (her's came out correct) and I > decided to just adapt and wind them all like she did (we lefties are > used to the tyranny of the right-handers) > > [Small digression: News story a couple of days ago in the Sacramento > Bee revealed that college-educated left-handed males on average will > make 15% more money in their lifetime than college-educated right-handed > males. So there! My wife read the story and said, "What did you do > with your 15%?"] > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem
--- Craig Rairdin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > the KXB3080 is probably the most challenging Elecraft kit to get right. I agree. > Not to mention the gymnastics required to install it without > shorting that one wire that has to cross behind the board without shorting > to the pad right next to it. I decided before i even got to that part that that would need insulation. > And making it fit under the ATU. That was the tricky part for me. I thought I had it all together and then when I tried to put the ATU on I had to unsolder the LPF module and reposition it. David, k3tue . ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem
OK, I really appreciate your quick response! I forgot to mention that the 20B cap does have a peak (not too much, but about the same as before, but there's no peak on 20A or 40. Also can't hear a peak on 30A or 30B. 'D' and '5" are correct The trace is cut (I thought I might not have done it, so I did it again. ;) But, if I check do a continuity check on both sides of the old trace, I get a short. I have not taken the time to check this against the schematic, but I did check it. T2 is wound correctly and installed properly and it does look like the photos. I followed the directions for stripping the toroids, so I'm not sure exactly what you mean here. What unstripped lead length would be a bad thing? If you're thinking that one of the leads is shorting somewhere it shouldn't, it doesn't appear to visually. Yes, the 'A' and 'B' wires are correct (quadruple checked). I did check transmit into a dummy load and here's what I get on my OHR WM-2 80 meters: 2 watts 40 meters: 3.5 watts 30 meters: 5.0 watts 20 meters: 3.2 watts battery voltage shows 14.1 volts Interestingly, the same setup showed 5 watts out on both 40 and 20 prior to the KXB3080 installation. And, as I was typing this, I decided to hook back up the antenna and see what I heard. Well, signals were booming in on 80. Went to each band in turn and was able to successfully peak the 40, 30, and 20 meter filters. So, what did I do? Don't really know. Other than going over everything about 10 times (no kidding) and scraping gently at 2 solder points that may (emphasize may) have been shorting. They didn't really look like they were, but there was some flux and it was shiny in the light, so I scraped a little between them. Don't even remember which ones they were. But, they were in the L6 and R1 part of the KX1 board and prolly one of the resoldered parts or very close to one. I'll complete the reassembly. I planned on taking this on a trip to TX this week and was sweating not having it done in time. Hopefully I won't undo what I did do. Thanks to everyone for putting up with the bandwidth! Many thanks and 72 to Don. At least having some plan of action kept me going when I might have just given up til I got back from my trip! Jim, WD9HBC At 05:00 PM 8/16/2006, Don Wilhelm wrote: Jim, One thing that will cause that problem is if the 'D' and '5' wires are interchanged - they should cross over each other (guess how I discovered that ) Did you make the PC trace cut on the KX1 board? Is T2 wound correctly and installed properly? - it should look like the photos. Were the toroid leads properly stripped? The unstripped lead length is rather critical in the KXB3080, but the proper lengths are indicated in the manual. Did you place the 'A' and 'B' wires as indicated in the manual? - they are mixed on the KXB3080 board, so the wire marked A on the KXB3080 goes to the B position on the KX1 board, etc. Have you checked transmmit yet? If you get proper RF output, you can be reasonably certain that the Low Pass Filter is OK, but if you find no or low power on transmit, look at the Low Pass Filter for the problem. The LPF (and the DDS) are the only components shared by both the receiver and the transmitter. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem
Jim, It certainly sounds like you got it fixed even if you don't know why - congratulations. You can likely improve the 20 meter output by spreading the green winding on the LPF inductors a bit, and 80 meters may improve by squeezing the red turns a bit. 30 meters will normally have more output than the other bands. Enjoy your trip. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I did check transmit into a dummy load and here's what I get on > my OHR WM-2 > 80 meters: 2 watts > 40 meters: 3.5 watts > 30 meters: 5.0 watts > 20 meters: 3.2 watts > > battery voltage shows 14.1 volts > > Interestingly, the same setup showed 5 watts out on both 40 and > 20 prior to > the KXB3080 installation. > > And, as I was typing this, I decided to hook back up the antenna and see > what I heard. Well, signals were booming in on 80. Went to each band in > turn and was able to successfully peak the 40, 30, and 20 meter filters. > > So, what did I do? Don't really know. Other than going over everything > about 10 times (no kidding) and scraping gently at 2 solder > points that may > (emphasize may) have been shorting. They didn't really look like > they were, > but there was some flux and it was shiny in the light, so I scraped a > little between them. Don't even remember which ones they were. But, they > were in the L6 and R1 part of the KX1 board and prolly one of the > resoldered parts or very close to one. > > I'll complete the reassembly. I planned on taking this on a trip > to TX this > week and was sweating not having it done in time. Hopefully I won't undo > what I did do. > > Thanks to everyone for putting up with the bandwidth! > > Many thanks and 72 to Don. At least having some plan of action kept me > going when I might have just given up til I got back from my trip! > > Jim, WD9HBC > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Dexter vs Sinister
Jack Smith wrote: > I'm extremely left-handed as well. Hence, I put all the push button > softkey switches for the Z90 panadapter on the LEFT side of the > LCD...It works a lot better for me than having them on the right > hand side. > > So far, no one has commented on that, which might mean that hams > are (a) unobservant or (b) all left-handed as well. Most likely answer is (a). However, years ago while still grinding away at the employment thing (with marginal success), I had an engineering team of exactly a dozen trying to rescue a project that was rattling around in the bottom of the tank. Engineering schools should teach more project management, maybe in place of some of the math ... I never saw a project fail for lack of knowledge of partial differential equations, but I sure saw a lot that failed on elementary project management and rudimentary cost accounting knowledge and application. Eleven of us were left-handed and we of course exercised our majority rights and set up the three CAE stations left-handed. The one dexterous member took it in stride and acknowledged that payback-time does come to all every now and then and he adapted. It didn't seem to affect his work, and I think he may have actually been a closet southpaw. I am still looking for my 15% additional income however. With 4 kids, the outgo always seem to equal the income, sometimes before the income came. For the record, as a 13-yr old, I learned to send CW right-handed (from a left-handed Elmer) so I could write with my left hand. "Really important," he said. Turns out, I can't write very legibly with either hand. I find the K2 to be pretty much non-handed. It would be nice if the SPOT switch and XFIL were on the left, and I could easily tolerate MENU and DISPLAY on the right since I never need them during normal operation. I think some of the K2 non-handedness comes from its much smaller size. My FT-847 is really annoying ... the key pad is really on the right and I cover up the display when I use it, fingers supporting my hand on top and big thumb poking tiny buttons. All in all thought, I think Wayne and Eric have done a class job. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] First K2 question
Don,W3FPR wrote: I never thought of it as lefthanded or righthanded, I just hold the core in my right hand and 'sew' the wire downward through the hole with my more agile left hand - I can see the turns better than winding fro the bottom up. The 'righties' would hold the core in the left hand and 'sew' the wire upward though the core center to produce the same thing. I do not believe I have gotten my 15% yet either I can't begin to count the number of "Elecraft" toroids I've wound over the years and, as a leftie, I still have to stop and think for a moment when I start one in order to get the windings going the right direction. Add to that a touch of dyslexia, which seems to favor lefties, and I have to be real careflu...er, careful. Topological trivia for y'all. Which Elecraft toroid is correctly wound LEFT-handed? Answer below: The answer is L1 in the T1 ATU. It's a three-turn winding that fills the space normally left open on toroids. So, for the leads to fit the pads on the board, it must be wound in the opposite (left-handed) direction, unlike other Elecraft toroids. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Toroids and hands
OK, assuming Eric will allow this (he seems to be pretty liberal as a reflector moderator), here's several questions. Please reply *directly to me*, not on the reflector!!: 1. Do you think of yourself as right or left-handed? 2. Do/did you have any problem with the toroid winding instructions in your Elecraft manual? (Mychael: your answer doesn't count! We know you can do this perfectly with either hand!) 3. With which hand do you normally write? 4. With which hand do you normally use a knife? 5. With which hand do you normally throw a ball or bat a baseball or a golf ball? 6. Did you find a problem winding the K2 toroid inductors? I'll collect the results and provide them on the reflector. I've had a number of rigs and some were more accommodating to us lefties than others. My K2 is at the top of the "Really cool" list so far .. a few changes would be good for the 10% of us, but then, most Elecraft customers are right handed. Best Regards to all, Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] "Backward Sunspot"...
Thanks for posting that link... if this solar cycle is anything like the 1981 solar cycle then we will be in for a real treat. We can throw away those KPA-100's and have 10m open hours than a Walmart. Dodo - an Official Sponsor of the 2006 FORMULA 1 (tm) Foster's Australian Grand Prix ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] NGEN/XG-2 Project
Hello All: I'm putting a NGEN and an XG-2 in a small project case. Assuming that both devices would not be on at the same time, would there be some way to couple the outputs to a single BNC connector, without using a switch, and without degrading the performance of the XG-2? Also will I have any problems with stability by extending the leads for the crystal switch a few inches? Also does anyone know of a source for a small three position single gang rotary switch to mount on the case to replace the switch on the XG-2 board? On a totally different question. Does anyone have any experience with internal lithium polymer battery packs for the K1 or KX1? As always, thanks in advance for all the information I learn on this reflector. Paul N8NOV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
