[Elecraft] More on #4150
Quote Excess current (<3A) being drawn on 40m tuneup. L1 adjustment having little effect. All other bands tuned up just fine. This was traced to L25/L26 having been supplied with 16 turns each, rather than the specified 14 and 12, respectively. Everything tuned perfectly after correcting the number of turns. Moral - double-check others' work as well as your own! Don has very kindly told me that the earlier version of the K2 called for 16 turns on L25 & L26, so the commercially-made toroids were for an earlier K2 design; thanks Don. It wasn't my intention to criticise but to emphasise the benefits of careful checking - even commercial stuff! Indeed, Elecraft support this approach by encouraging builders to complete a thorough inventory before reaching for the soldering iron. It's time well invested. 73 DaveL G3TJP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Ant.-Closed Loop vs. Open Ends?
ok, we have established that many of you cannot, like me, use the software. (smile) Who can answer the topic: "closed loop or open ends"? Ron, wb1hga Larry wrote: I agree with you. I cannot figure out Eznec Could be my brain doesn't work the same way as the creator. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
In a message dated 10/27/06 4:38:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > The Diamond bottom tube may, (and likely) contains a broad band ferrite > cable choke. Probably - to keep RF off the outside of the coax. Such a choke would cost a few dollars at most. Or there may be a combination trap/ loading coil such as used > > on some tri band beams for multibands. > No, that wouldn't work. Traps are used in the radiator itself, not at one end. The BB7 claims SWR of less than 2:1 over the entire range. Traps and loading coils won't do that. It's resistively loaded. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Bead-Wire Antenna
Hello all, I backpack the AT here in the US and I've always wanted a small, lightweight HF antenna that won't break the bank. I finally have designed one that works great for QRP portable use. I call it the "WA3WSJ Bead-Wire Antenna." It made from bead wire, yes jewelry bead wire that is used to make bead jewelry! Wall Mart sells it over here packaged in a 40 foot spool. I even use the spool to store the antenna. A spool sells for just under $2.00 US. I take one 40' spool and tie on around 50 feet of 30lb test fishing line to one end. This is used as my radiator wire. I tie a small loop on the end of the fishing line. This loop just slips thru a 1oz. sinker and this is used to throw up into a tree etc. I also purchase two more spools and cut three 16 foot ground radials using the bead wire. I now have one 40' radiator wire and three 16' ground radial wire that I throw out around to operate. I use a BNC to two binding-post adapter that plugs into the antenna bnc on my Elecraft KX1. The whole antenna fits on one small spool and weights-in at 2oz! Parts for the WA3WSJ Bead-Wire Antenna: $6.00--3ea. 40' bead wire spools @ $2.00 ea. $3.00--1 set solder less banana jacks Radio Shack # 274-721 $2.00-- large spool of 30lb fishing line So for around $10 or $11 US dollars you have a very nice compact and lightweight qrp antenna that will tune on 20m,30m and 40m. I have worked Europe with this antenna using my KX1 @ 3w on 30m. ENJOY! 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1
I moved into a new house in the beginning of September and finally got on the air from the kitchen table with batteries, an inverted v on the deck and KX 1 1492. It is still a total delight. I manage to get 2.5 to 3.0 watts out of it on 20 M with 12.8 volt supply. I wonder how many on the reflector get 3.5 to 4.0 watts as specified so I can figure out if I want to dig into it and tune the inductors and transformer. I really don't want to do that unless most of you get the higher powers. I can have many enjoyable qso's at the lower powers and don't want to ruin the rig by tearing into it. I will see if Kevin R can hear me this evening on 20. Ed Lambert, KD3Y K2 1999 KX 1 1492 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 swr problem
Hi. My 3 1/2 year old K2 (SN 3432) with KPA 100 swr circuit seems to have developed a problem. Into a dummy load at 5 W with an external swr bridge also connected, it indicates swr of about 5:1 on 80 meters down to 1.7:1 on 20 meters. That's the lowest I can get by adjusting C1. The external bridge indicates 1 on all bands. It didn't used to do this. C1 adjusts to minimum in two places (so I am not at an extreme value). Nothing looks smoked. I do get power out to the dummy load. Anyone run across this before? Bob ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Turn-On Help
Bill, Those of us who think we know what we're doing, but don't - like me - have found that a Hakko desoldering pump is the greatest thing since sliced bread. You can't eat it, but it works wonders for one's morale while undoing mistakes on K2s and other Elecraft products. 73, Steve K0PQ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of William M. Spaulding, SR Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:09 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] Turn-On Help My turn-on tests are all fixed now that I used my Hakko to get U3 in the proper orientation. I'm not supposed to make mistakes like that Thanks, Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Microham Microkeyer Cable for K2
Anyone have the cable for the Microham Microkeyer to the K2 that you wish to sell? I have a new one for the Yaesu FT-857 if you would like to swap, but will buy yours outright. 73s Jim K4JAF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 10/27/06 4:38:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The Diamond bottom tube may, (and likely) contains a broad band ferrite cable choke. Probably - to keep RF off the outside of the coax. Such a choke would cost a few dollars at most. Actually, a choke on the coax would *prevent* the antenna from working unless it was mounted on a metal mast. It needs a counterpoise and the coax shield provides it unless a mast or radials are present. This is actually similar to the 'e-h' antenna, in which the alleged 'antenna' at the end of the feedline serves to tune the shield of the feedline to resonance. The shield actually does the radiating. Adding a bead balun to an e-h antenna causes the antenna to stop working and the balun to get hot! No, I don't want to start a thread on this antenna either! In the Diamond antenna, the feedline is only half of the antenna, with the 22-foot radiator being the other half and the resistor smoothing out the SWR variations. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
In a message dated 10/29/06 11:12:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > In a message dated 10/27/06 4:38:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > > > >> The Diamond bottom tube may, (and likely) contains a broad band ferrite > >> cable choke. > > > > Probably - to keep RF off the outside of the coax. Such a choke would cost > a > > few dollars at most. > > Actually, a choke on the coax would *prevent* the antenna from working > unless it was mounted on a metal mast. It needs a counterpoise and the > coax shield provides it unless a mast or radials are present. Agreed. Note that in the literature, the unit is shown on a metal mast. > > This is actually similar to the 'e-h' antenna, in which the alleged > 'antenna' at the end of the feedline serves to tune the shield of the > feedline to resonance. The shield actually does the radiating. Adding > a bead balun to an e-h antenna causes the antenna to stop working and > the balun to get hot! No, I don't want to start a thread on this > antenna either! > Good idea. > In the Diamond antenna, the feedline is only half of the antenna, with > the 22-foot radiator being the other half and the resistor smoothing out > the SWR variations. > Or the mast. So what's probably in the "matcher" is really just a resistor. $400 for 22 feet of tubing, a mast clamp, and a nice noninductive resistor. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Ant.-Closed Loop vs. Open Ends?
Jeff Answering your last question first: for top band and 80m mainly (actually, it worked on all bands) I joined the feeders together into one terminal of my Drake tuner and the other I took thro some tv coax (shorted) back up thro the ceiling, out to the soffit board and straight down to a ground spike (brass curtain rods) and lots of radials in the front garden. This was then a heavily top loaded vertical and worked very well. The single outdoor brown wire spaced off the brick wall about a foot was almost unnoticeable and a friend thought it was just the tv coax that had come unclipped. Back to the invertedV/doublet/loop bird's nest: I could model it in EZNEC if I had a few minutes, but I am sure the results will be impenetrable: there will be lobes going in all sorts of directions at all sorts of angles. What will be a problem is modelling the house and structure which is beyond me. Frankly, as the man said: I don't give a d*mn. As radio amateurs we are interested in getting signals in and out and the performance of simple antennas is just the joy of working the world and that's what I did. Be aware of the noise picked up from the house mains and the interference you can put into the mains. I used to modulate the lights on 20m. Look out for high voltages - use heavy gauge insulated house wire (it's more efficient) and insulate any bare wire ends. As to shorting or opening the ends: it changed the range of frequencies that could be matched. I started making a table of strength of signals from various directions with open or short and with feeding from corners or apex, but the combinations were endless and of course change endlessly with frequency and band conditions. I gave up after a few trials. In its vertical configuration I got more dx which was to be expected and I think I left it like that. Just enjoy getting out. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:19 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Attic Ant.-Closed Loop vs. Open Ends? David, G3UNA, wrote: ...My 'doublet' was nearly a loop, ie it followed the beams around the loft. The ends were left open, about a foot apart... I have some questions for the group. How would one decide whether the ends should be left open, versus connected together to make a loop? (I never could figure out how to model antennas using EZNEC. It should be called HARDNEC.) Does it make a lot of difference? Using a tuner near the feedpoint, which way would give a better match on more bands (160-10m), open or closed ends? Which way would yield stronger signals in the most directions? Is it the case that, below a certain total wire length, the ends should be left open, but above that length, they should be connected together? I guess the only way an indoor antenna of typical length would match on 160m, even with a tuner, would be if the ends were connected together and the whole thing was treated as a very bent end-fed wire working against ground and a counterpoise. Thanks & 73, Jeff, WB5GWB Long Island, NY K2 #821 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
I had similar problems today with an 840 in the contest. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "KT5X" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 2:32 AM Subject: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue Yes, I noticed the same problem (and more) last summer with VFO B. Maybe it is fixed in a newer edition, dunno. 72, Fred - kt5x ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] noise blanker
K1 fans: I finally bought a NB for the K1. What a difference! Now I cannot hear them lights turning on or off in the house! Of course, I don't know which room my family is using anymore either. (heh heh) Ron, wb1hga ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 swr problem
Bob, Can we assume that it worked properly before? If so, try replacing the 1N5711 diodes in the wattmeter circuit (they are frequently zapped by a lightning surge and show no outward signs of failure) - you may also want to re-check the soldering of the bifilar transformer. Sometimes a marginal solder joint will work for a year or so and then begin to cause problems. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > My 3 1/2 year old K2 (SN 3432) with KPA 100 swr circuit seems to have > developed a problem. Into a dummy load at 5 W with an external swr > bridge also connected, it indicates swr of about 5:1 on 80 meters down to > 1.7:1 on 20 meters. That's the lowest I can get by adjusting C1. The > external bridge indicates 1 on all bands. It didn't used to do this. > > C1 adjusts to minimum in two places (so I am not at an extreme value). > Nothing looks smoked. > I do get power out to the dummy load. > > Anyone run across this before? > > Bob > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
I updated my copy of N1MM Logger (v6.10.10)in the hope that I would be able to get into the CQWW this weekend and noticed that it didn't recognize VFO B either. On a related note, I downloaded, installed and configured Ham Radio Deluxe a few evenings ago and found that it's ability to display the K2's frequency was very shaky. If the K2 was tuned to 7015.45 kHz then HRD would display the correct freq for a few seconds, then it might display something like 701 for a few seconds, then 545 for a few more secs, then some other combination of digits from the freq next...changing every 10 or 15 seconds. The K2 is connected to my notebook via the cable provided with the KIO2 and through a serial-to-USB converter. Any help would be gratefully accepted. 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS --- KT5X <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Yes, I noticed the same problem (and more) last > summer with VFO B. Maybe it is fixed in a newer > edition, dunno. > > 72, Fred - kt5x > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
I have not had any problems with HRD or N1MM on VFO B. I am using an older Laptop and a newer desktop, both using the serial port. Perhaps you are having Some issues with the USB/serial adapter. It may not be stable, or is dropping Data. The data rate on the K2 is fairly slow. Mike AI4NS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Alexander Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 3:39 PM To: KT5X; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue I updated my copy of N1MM Logger (v6.10.10)in the hope that I would be able to get into the CQWW this weekend and noticed that it didn't recognize VFO B either. On a related note, I downloaded, installed and configured Ham Radio Deluxe a few evenings ago and found that it's ability to display the K2's frequency was very shaky. If the K2 was tuned to 7015.45 kHz then HRD would display the correct freq for a few seconds, then it might display something like 701 for a few seconds, then 545 for a few more secs, then some other combination of digits from the freq next...changing every 10 or 15 seconds. The K2 is connected to my notebook via the cable provided with the KIO2 and through a serial-to-USB converter. Any help would be gratefully accepted. 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
Ken, I would suggest a better USB to serial adapter - or if possible, use a desktop computer with a real serial port. If your USB to serial adapter is connected to a USB hub, that might be a problem - several folks have reported miscellaneous mysteries occurring with that combination, but they sometimes disappear when connected to a native USB port. I have never noticed any problem like that on any version of HRD that I have used, but then I have always used a real COM port. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I updated my copy of N1MM Logger (v6.10.10)in the hope > that I would be able to get into the CQWW this weekend > and noticed that it didn't recognize VFO B either. > > On a related note, I downloaded, installed and > configured Ham Radio Deluxe a few evenings ago and > found that it's ability to display the K2's frequency > was very shaky. If the K2 was tuned to 7015.45 kHz > then HRD would display the correct freq for a few > seconds, then it might display something like 701 for > a few seconds, then 545 for a few more secs, then some > other combination of digits from the freq > next...changing every 10 or 15 seconds. > > The K2 is connected to my notebook via the cable > provided with the KIO2 and through a serial-to-USB > converter. > > Any help would be gratefully accepted. > > 73, > > Ken Alexander > VE3HLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
If you are having problems with HRD with you setup I would venture to say the problem is not with your radio or the software but the USB-232 converter you are using. I use HRD exclusively and have no problems. You will see quite a few people having problems with certain USB converters repeatedly on the HRD forums site and you will also see a lot of good recommendations for better USB adaptors. That is the first place I would look. Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired,Again K2/100 SN 3075 http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org http://forums.ham-radio.ch/ - Original Message - From: "Ken Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "KT5X" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 3:39 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue I updated my copy of N1MM Logger (v6.10.10)in the hope that I would be able to get into the CQWW this weekend and noticed that it didn't recognize VFO B either. On a related note, I downloaded, installed and configured Ham Radio Deluxe a few evenings ago and found that it's ability to display the K2's frequency was very shaky. If the K2 was tuned to 7015.45 kHz then HRD would display the correct freq for a few seconds, then it might display something like 701 for a few seconds, then 545 for a few more secs, then some other combination of digits from the freq next...changing every 10 or 15 seconds. The K2 is connected to my notebook via the cable provided with the KIO2 and through a serial-to-USB converter. Any help would be gratefully accepted. 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS --- KT5X <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Yes, I noticed the same problem (and more) last summer with VFO B. Maybe it is fixed in a newer edition, dunno. 72, Fred - kt5x ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: W3FPR: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take commands from pc
Gary, I took some measurements: You mentioned when the K2 is not sending or receiving data that U1 pin 11 and pin 12 should both be 5 volts. Pin 12 is 5 volts, but Pin 11 is 0 volts. I also verified that U6 Pin 25 is 5 volts and U6 Pin 26 is 0 volts. What could cause U6 Pin 26 to be 0 volts? U1 Pin 5 is -10 volts, which is within the range you specified. I verified the serial cable is built exactly to the manual's instructions. I verified that nothing is crossed by popping off the covers on each end and plugging the male/female into eachother. All colors lined up. I verified continuity with all pins. I tried changing between U6 - 25 and U8-4 for the side tone source in the menu back and forth several times with no change in the output voltage of that U6 Pin 26. If that pin is supposed to be 5v and it's not, that seems to be raising a red flag, correct? Where should I go from here? Thanks & 73, James Kern KB2FCV -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 27 Oct 2006 8:15 PM Subject: W3FPR: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take commands from pc Anything less than 10 ohms means the RFC is OK. Here are more KIO2 troubleshooting tips: BEGIN: Here are some things about testing the KIO2: (also applies to the KPA100 RS232 interface) U1 pin 12 (K2 /TX) and U1 pin 11 (/K2 RX) come from the K2's U6 MCU, pins 25 (TXD) and 26 (RXD) respectively. All of these pins are held near 5VDC until they become active with data, at which time the level goes toward ground for short duration pulses of data. U1 pin 5 should be at -6 to -12VDC with no cable connected between the KIO2 and computer. If not, check for shorts on the pin or an unsoldered connection. Use an ohmmeter to test for shorts with the power turned off. Make sure you are counting the pins correctly. Make sure your serial cable is built exactly like it is shown in the manual, and you did not miscount the pins on the DB9 connectors. Male and Female DB9 connectors are mirror images of each other. Since the MCU in the K2 must be set up to use pin 25 as a data port, be sure the sidetone and the SPOT button works in CW mode. Otherwise, U6 pin 25 may be setup as the sidetone source and not as a data pin. It is changed between the two, by editing the ST L Menu entry and pressing the DISPLAY button until U8-4 is seen rather than U6-25. You may have to switch off the power after you make this change if the sidetone still doesn't work, and repeat the process several times if it is unsuccessful. Once you get the proper 5V level on the KIO2's U1 pins 11 and 12, you can use an oscilloscope or even the lower AC volts range on a voltmeter to see if data is present when you send a command from the PC or the K2. You can follow the data from the PC to the KIO2 to J1 pin 3, U1 pin 6, then U1 pin 11. Note that the small RF chokes on the KIO2 are fragile and can break so they are an open circuit. Use an ohmmeter to verify all of them have less than 10 ohms series resistance with the power turned off. Look for wiring problems too, and small strands of wire on the boards (or the cable connectors) that might be causing shorts to nearby circuits. Reheat or resolder the connections if necessary. The idea here, is to verify there is data coming from the PC to the MAX1406, and then it is making it through U1 to the K2's MCU. Study the signal labels and pins names on J1 and U1 on the KIO2 or KPA100 schematic and you should be able to understand the data flow. Example: TXD on J1 pin 2 means transmit data from the KIO2 to the PC. RXD on J1 pin 3 means receive data from the PC to the KIO2. U1 buffers this data and then sends or receives it to/from the K2 MCU on the U1 pins labeled /K2 TX and /K2 RX. The "/" indicates these are active low pins, normally held near 5VDC until data is present. -- 73, Gary AB7MY = [EMAIL PROTECTED] Elecraft Technical Support -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 4:23 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take commands from pc James, Have you checked the resistance across the tiny inductors on the KIO2 board? Those inductors are easily damaged when installing, and an open inductor would cause exactly the symptoms you report. RXD and TXD are separate signals, so it is quite possible that TXD is working, but RXD is not - resulting on 'one-way' communications. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have been working with the KIO2 for a while to try to get it to work. It's never really worked since I put it in. Today I verified with another PC that the K2 does indeed send data through the KIO2 but it does not receive. I ran the test as described on page 14 of the KIO2 manual. Steps 1,2,3,4 works
Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take commands from pc
Hi Don, Thanks for the reply and your help! Yep, I have checked the resistances on both the tiny inductors. They are around 8 ohms, which was within the range that elecraft support suggested. Elecraft support suggested that U1 pin 11 and pin 12 should be around 5 volts when no data is being sent.. well, pin 11 is 0 volts and pin 12 is 5 volts. I traced this all the way back to U6 pin 25 and pin 26. Pin 25 was 5 volts and pin 26 was 0 volts. I'm not sure where to head next with this. Perhaps U6 is bad? That is what it's looking like.. Thanks & 73, James KB2FCV -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 27 Oct 2006 7:23 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take commands from pc James, Have you checked the resistance across the tiny inductors on the KIO2 board? Those inductors are easily damaged when installing, and an open inductor would cause exactly the symptoms you report. RXD and TXD are separate signals, so it is quite possible that TXD is working, but RXD is not - resulting on 'one-way' communications. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have been working with the KIO2 for a while to try to get it to work. It's never really worked since I put it in. Today I verified with another PC that the K2 does indeed send data through the KIO2 but it does not receive. I ran the test as described on page 14 of the KIO2 manual. Steps 1,2,3,4 works fine I get the FA0; to come up in hyperterminal when I hit the DISPLAY button as instructed. When I try step 5, which is to type SW01; then nothing happens. The software I tried cannot connect to the K2 either. The settings on my serial port (COM1) in Device manager (windows 2003 production) are as follows: Bits Per Second: 4800 Data Bits: 8 Parity: None Stop Bits: 2 Flow Control: None I am still baffled by what would cause one way communication, but not two way communication between the K2 and the PC. 73, James KB2FCV Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue, USB-Serial, & Serial CW Keying
I started this thread with the original question. I specifically wondered about folks using serial port for communications for band/mode info with N1MM logging program. I'm using v6.9.6. As long as I use VFO A only things are okay. If I switch to VFO B I don't see it displayed on the program window and it doesn't log info from VFO B but continues to log the info from VFO A, which is the wrong VFO at that point. I think some of the responses have indicated that this specific problem has been seen, with multiple versions of software from N1MM. Thanks everyone for that input and I believe they will be looking into this problem now as I'm not the only one with that problem. I also tried EQF logging program and it displays both VFO frequencies and correctly indicates which VFO is the active one, and I believe it logs the info correctly as well if it displays it correctly. I really like the N1MM program, though, so I'm going to stick with that and know that it has that shortcoming, and hope it gets resolved by the N1MM programmers soon. I appreciate everyone's comments on this and I hope I've helped others be alerted of this potential bug so that you don't have too much to edit in a log when you realize things don't look quite right. WRT the USB-Serial converter, I was only using that for the CW Keying and I had tried radio communications with that as well but it didn't seem to work at all so I didn't pursue it any further, yet. Could just be the Belkin model I have or maybe some other setup issue, though. CW Keying with either the normal serial port or the USB-Serial adapter didn't seem quite smooth enough and the timing was off a bit. I just built the parallel port interface using a single 2N and a 1-kohm resistor and it seems quite a bit smoother. I'm not sure if this is just wishful thinking or if it really is better, but I guess I'll find out the next time I run a more serious effort on a CW contest to try it out. My quick test made me think it was better though. Any experience or comments from others on the parallel versus serial port CW keying, or for that matter, how about USB port via some other interface? I think this will get me by until I figure out which K1EL Keyer to get, probably the USB version. BTW, the response from the S/W folk at N1MM Log is that they will not be supporting the "KY" protocol. Just curious if others who are reading this thread have used another logging program that supports the "KY" protocol and how they like it? Maybe that should be a topic for another thread, though. 73, Mark, NK8Q K2 4786 Gregg R. Lengling wrote: If you are having problems with HRD with you setup I would venture to say the problem is not with your radio or the software but the USB-232 converter you are using. I use HRD exclusively and have no problems. You will see quite a few people having problems with certain USB converters repeatedly on the HRD forums site and you will also see a lot of good recommendations for better USB adaptors. That is the first place I would look. Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired,Again K2/100 SN 3075 http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org http://forums.ham-radio.ch/ - Original Message - From: "Ken Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "KT5X" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 3:39 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue I updated my copy of N1MM Logger (v6.10.10)in the hope that I would be able to get into the CQWW this weekend and noticed that it didn't recognize VFO B either. On a related note, I downloaded, installed and configured Ham Radio Deluxe a few evenings ago and found that it's ability to display the K2's frequency was very shaky. If the K2 was tuned to 7015.45 kHz then HRD would display the correct freq for a few seconds, then it might display something like 701 for a few seconds, then 545 for a few more secs, then some other combination of digits from the freq next...changing every 10 or 15 seconds. The K2 is connected to my notebook via the cable provided with the KIO2 and through a serial-to-USB converter. Any help would be gratefully accepted. 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS --- KT5X <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Yes, I noticed the same problem (and more) last summer with VFO B. Maybe it is fixed in a newer edition, dunno. 72, Fred - kt5x ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] More on #4150
You wrote that the K2 had started life as a much earlier version for which the original owner obtained upgrades and a new serial number. It's clear he didn't get all the 'upgrades' since the toroids changed during that time too, and you received the old toroid set. If you find any other strange behavior, you might double check to see if all the various changes were actually incorporated. It's always a challenge to take over a partially completed project. There's a lot of truth to the signs in the old TV repair shops of yesteryear: "Repairs! Labor $15/hour. If you've already fixed it, $50/hour." I've never heard of anyone getting a "new" serial number. This is an excellent reason not to do that. It helps to know the real vintage of the original unit just in case something like that shows up again. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Quote Excess current (<3A) being drawn on 40m tune-up. L1 adjustment having little effect. All other bands tuned up just fine. This was traced to L25/L26 having been supplied with 16 turns each, rather than the specified 14 and 12, respectively. Everything tuned perfectly after correcting the number of turns. Moral - double-check others' work as well as your own! Don has very kindly told me that the earlier version of the K2 called for 16 turns on L25 & L26, so the commercially-made toroids were for an earlier K2 design; thanks Don. It wasn't my intention to criticise but to emphasise the benefits of careful checking - even commercial stuff! Indeed, Elecraft support this approach by encouraging builders to complete a thorough inventory before reaching for the soldering iron. It's time well invested. 73 DaveL G3TJP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Disable KAT-2
How do you disable the Auto Tuner in the K2?? I think I have somehow managed to blow the diodes in it again. 2nd time in 3 months, and this time the antenna is only connected when I'm on the radio. First time I left the antenna connected most of the time. Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: W3FPR: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take commands from pc
James, The voltage at KIO2 pin 11 (/RXD) will be determined by your computer's input to U1 pin 6. First check the voltage at U1 pin 6 and also J1 pin 3 with the computer cable connected and the computer powered on. Under normal conditions (computer RS232 output at idle), the voltage at U1 pin 6 (and J1 pin 3) should be somewhere between -3 volts and -25 volts (RS232 Mark voltage). If that condition is true, then the voltage at KIO2 U1 pin 11 should be 5 volts. Alternately, if the voltage at U1 pin 6 is between +3 volts and +25 volts (RS232 space voltage), then U1 pin 11 will be at 0 volts. So---, if you have the correct voltages at KIO2 in 3 and U1 pin 6, but not at U1 pin 11, then the U1 chip is not functioning properly - but if you do not have the correct voltages at U1 pin 6, then blame your computer or the cable or the L3 inductor (or a soldering short on the KIO2). If the voltage at U1 pin 6 is somewhere between +3 volts and -3 volts, and the voltage at J1 pin 3 is the same, then your problem lies with your computer serial port - this voltage region is 'indeterminate' and can result in U1 pin 11 being either at 0 volts or +5 volts (it is anyone's guess which one it will be). Once you obtain a proper input to U1 pin 6 from the computer, you can then trace the signal to the K2 control board U6 pin 26, but until you obtain +5 volts on KIO2 U1 pin 11, the zero volt reading at all points may be exactly right. As a side-note, the schematic markings are not consistent between the base K2 and the KIO2 (and KPA100) - the KIO2 schematic properly indicates the inversion in the receiver by naming the signal '/RXD', while the K2 schematic names this same signal by its non-inverted designation 'RXD' - it is a bit confusing if one is attempting to follow the logic levels - the signaling state for the RS232 level is the 'space' condition which will result in a logic low (zero volts) on the '/RXD' (or 'RXD') signal lines. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Gary, > > I took some measurements: > > You mentioned when the K2 is not sending or receiving data that U1 pin > 11 and pin 12 should both be 5 volts. Pin 12 is 5 volts, but Pin 11 is > 0 volts. I also verified that U6 Pin 25 is 5 volts and U6 Pin 26 is 0 > volts. What could cause U6 Pin 26 to be 0 volts? > > U1 Pin 5 is -10 volts, which is within the range you specified. > > I verified the serial cable is built exactly to the manual's > instructions. I verified that nothing is crossed by popping off the > covers on each end and plugging the male/female into eachother. All > colors lined up. I verified continuity with all pins. > > I tried changing between U6 - 25 and U8-4 for the side tone source in > the menu back and forth several times with no change in the output > voltage of that U6 Pin 26. If that pin is supposed to be 5v and it's > not, that seems to be raising a red flag, correct? > > Where should I go from here? > > Thanks & 73, > > James Kern KB2FCV > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Fri, 27 Oct 2006 8:15 PM > Subject: W3FPR: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take > commands from pc > > Anything less than 10 ohms means the RFC is OK. > > > Here are more KIO2 troubleshooting tips: > > > BEGIN: > > > Here are some things about testing the KIO2: (also applies to the KPA100 > RS232 interface) > > U1 pin 12 (K2 /TX) and U1 pin 11 (/K2 RX) come from the K2's U6 MCU, > pins 25 > (TXD) and 26 (RXD) respectively. All of these pins are held near 5VDC > until > they become active with data, at which time the level goes toward > ground for > short duration pulses of data. > > U1 pin 5 should be at -6 to -12VDC with no cable connected between the > KIO2 > and computer. If not, check for shorts on the pin or an unsoldered > connection. Use an ohmmeter to test for shorts with the power turned > off. > Make sure you are counting the pins correctly. Make sure your serial > cable > is built exactly like it is shown in the manual, and you did not > miscount > the pins on the DB9 connectors. Male and Female DB9 connectors are > mirror > images of each other. > > Since the MCU in the K2 must be set up to use pin 25 as a data port, be > sure > the sidetone and the SPOT button works in CW mode. Otherwise, U6 pin 25 > may > be setup as the sidetone source and not as a data pin. It is changed > between > the two, by editing the ST L Menu entry and pressing the DISPLAY button > until U8-4 is seen rather than U6-25. You may have to switch off the > power > after you make this change if the sidetone still doesn't work, and > repeat > the process several times if it is unsuccessful. > > Once you get the proper 5V level on the KIO2's U1 pins 11 and 12, you > can > use an oscilloscope or even the lower AC volts range on a voltmeter to > see > if data is presen
RE: [Elecraft] Disable KAT-2
Jerry, Sorry to hear about your twice blown diodes. To disable the wattmeter on the tuner, you must physically remove the tuner. Normally, the tuner inductances and capacitors are bypassed in ATU CAL (and a few other settings - consult the manual), but the wattmeter is still in the circuit and should function to provide the K2 power leveling circuits with a measurement of the actual output power. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > How do you disable the Auto Tuner in the K2?? I think I have somehow > managed to blow the diodes in it again. 2nd time in 3 months, and > this time > the antenna is only connected when I'm on the radio. First time I > left the > antenna connected most of the time. > > Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Attic Ant.-Closed Loop vs. Open Ends?
Greetings, It is interesting that this topic has arisen now, as I am wrestling with some of the same challenges previously posted. I recently remarried and moved across town to ‘her house’ I bought half of it … the north half :). I put up a 110' long attic loop at about 25' above ground which is fed with a short length of 300 ohm ladder line down through the ceiling to my shack. It works very well from 40M on up, but although the K2's ATU will 'tune' itself for 80M and even 160M duty, the loop is essentially a dummy load on those low bands. I would like to try to cut the loop at its center so as to have a 'convoluted doublet' (for lack of a better term) 55' long per side. I think it would do relatively well on 80M but I have no idea what effect doing so would have on noise levels and efficiency on the other bands. I'm trying to avoid extensive experimentation. The low head room and the thick insulation (I have to put plywood sheets down to avoid going down through the ceiling) make negotiating the attic very difficult. The main challenge is finding the exact center of the loop opposite the feedpoint. There is no way this 63-year-old body is going to measure every inch of the antenna to find this point where I would make the cut. Does anyone have an 'elegantly-crafted' method of finding this point, perhaps electronically? Best regards, Todd N9NE Oshkosh, WI -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date: 10/27/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
Hi Don, and all other responders, I guess I'll have to shop around for a better USB to serial adapter. My desktop computer is far too noisy to use with any HF equipment running. I was thinking about replacing it with a Mac but I don't think Mac desktops have serial ports either. I remember there was some discussion several months ago about why Elecraft didn't use USB for their computer control interface. However, considering how scarce serial ports are becoming on new computers and the fact that many ham radio aftermarket manufacturers are successfully using USB in their products I wonder how long the argument can hold up (although I'll also admit I don't know of any transceiver manufacturers who market transceivers with USB control interfaces). 73 - Ken --- Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Ken, > > I would suggest a better USB to serial adapter - or > if possible, use a > desktop computer with a real serial port. If your > USB to serial adapter is > connected to a USB hub, that might be a problem - > several folks have > reported miscellaneous mysteries occurring with that > combination, but they > sometimes disappear when connected to a native USB > port. > > I have never noticed any problem like that on any > version of HRD that I have > used, but then I have always used a real COM port. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > -Original Message- > > > > I updated my copy of N1MM Logger (v6.10.10)in the > hope > > that I would be able to get into the CQWW this > weekend > > and noticed that it didn't recognize VFO B either. > > > > On a related note, I downloaded, installed and > > configured Ham Radio Deluxe a few evenings ago and > > found that it's ability to display the K2's > frequency > > was very shaky. If the K2 was tuned to 7015.45 > kHz > > then HRD would display the correct freq for a few > > seconds, then it might display something like 701 > for > > a few seconds, then 545 for a few more secs, then > some > > other combination of digits from the freq > > next...changing every 10 or 15 seconds. > > > > The K2 is connected to my notebook via the cable > > provided with the KIO2 and through a serial-to-USB > > converter. > > > > Any help would be gratefully accepted. > > > > 73, > > > > Ken Alexander > > VE3HLS > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] November Polar Bear Run
Hello, Polar Bear Run 3 Nov. 2006 starting @ 20:00 UTC to 4 Nov. 2006 @ 20:00 UTC On 3 November 2006 will be the Polar Bear Run for November's Full Moon which is the Beaver or Snow Moon or Full Frost Moon. You can start looking for Polar Bears around the QRP frequencies between 3 Nov. @ 20:00 UTC until 4 Nov. @ 20:00 UTC. There might be a couple of Polar Bears on until 23:00 UTC 4 Nov. on 30m CW or 75m SSB. I am closing in on my 700 QSO from the Appalachian Trail, only need 2 Q's to make 700 Q's. Not sure if I am going out on Friday night or Saturday morning. I will post my intentions later on 2 November. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL Polar Bear #1 www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] More on #4150
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I've never heard of anyone getting a "new" serial number. I know of at least one who did. Me. When I bought the basic K2 and a couple of option boards, it had a 25xx serial number. But I didn't get to build it right away because my job as a technical trainer for Sybase kept me on the road six days a week. When I did get time to build the kit, Elecraft was introducing the first major improvement to the K2, so I bought the Rev A-to-B upgrade package, which had the 3302 serial number tag in the kit. I use that number because it accurately reflects what is really in the transceiver. There may be other K2 owners who had a similar circumstance. If so, I'm curious to know which serial number choices they made and how many "holes" there might be in the serial number sequence. Cheers, Gus Hansen, KB0YH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RE: Attic Ant.-Closed Loop vs. Open Ends?
Can't help you with an "after the fact" method of measuring the center, but my approach wherever I've had to string up a doublet that wasn't in a straight line is to first cut it over-length with equal lengths on each side of the feed point. Then I install it working where I'll put the shortest side first. Install it, cut it to length, and measure what I cut off. Then I cut that off of the other end and install that side. Truth to tell, where you feed it has little bearing on the operation, particularly in an attic doublet, as long as it's not at one end (unless it's 1/2 wave long ). The building will unbalance it and it doesn't really need to be balanced. That's why leaving the balun out of the system usually has no effect on the signal; sometimes it's an improvement! Balance helps reduce the feeder radiation, but such radiation usually doesn't hurt. Besides in an attic installation, the feeder length is pretty short anyway. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Greetings, It is interesting that this topic has arisen now, as I am wrestling with some of the same challenges previously posted. I recently remarried and moved across town to 'her house' I bought half of it . the north half :). I put up a 110' long attic loop at about 25' above ground which is fed with a short length of 300 ohm ladder line down through the ceiling to my shack. It works very well from 40M on up, but although the K2's ATU will 'tune' itself for 80M and even 160M duty, the loop is essentially a dummy load on those low bands. I would like to try to cut the loop at its center so as to have a 'convoluted doublet' (for lack of a better term) 55' long per side. I think it would do relatively well on 80M but I have no idea what effect doing so would have on noise levels and efficiency on the other bands. I'm trying to avoid extensive experimentation. The low head room and the thick insulation (I have to put plywood sheets down to avoid going down through the ceiling) make negotiating the attic very difficult. The main challenge is finding the exact center of the loop opposite the feedpoint. There is no way this 63-year-old body is going to measure every inch of the antenna to find this point where I would make the cut. Does anyone have an 'elegantly-crafted' method of finding this point, perhaps electronically? Best regards, Todd N9NE Oshkosh, WI ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] More on #4150
FB. I hadn't known about that. The Rev B boards in the A-to-B upgrade kit pretty well require it be built to the "post S/N 3000" design. However, in the case of the fellow who had the trouble, the toroids had been purchased for the pre-S/N 3000 design. Long live Mr. Murphy: "If anything can go wrong it will..." Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > I've never heard of anyone getting a "new" serial number. > I know of at least one who did. Me. When I bought the basic K2 and a couple of option boards, it had a 25xx serial number. But I didn't get to build it right away because my job as a technical trainer for Sybase kept me on the road six days a week. When I did get time to build the kit, Elecraft was introducing the first major improvement to the K2, so I bought the Rev A-to-B upgrade package, which had the 3302 serial number tag in the kit. I use that number because it accurately reflects what is really in the transceiver. There may be other K2 owners who had a similar circumstance. If so, I'm curious to know which serial number choices they made and how many "holes" there might be in the serial number sequence. Cheers, Gus Hansen, KB0YH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Mic Gain, K2/100
I was finally able to get my K2 (#0061) upgraded to a K2/100 just prior to CQWW this past weekend. The KPA100 was bought in 2004 and sat on a shelf for a year or two. Anyway, I was doing some A/B checks after completing and testing the unit, while trying to call some stations on 20 meters. I compared a Yeasu FT-890 to the K2/100. I noticed there were a few stations that I called and called on the K2, that were then workable in one or two calls after switching over to the FT-890. I did some power checks, and found that in CW mode, the K2 was the same, if not slightly more power (reading on the same meter, same antenna, using an A/B switch) But on SSB, the voice peaks of the K2 are 25-30% lower than those of the FT-890. I am using dynamic mikes on both radios... on the K2 it's a Yaesu MH-31 Mic. I also used this mic on both radios and noted voice power peaks almost twice that of the K2 (70 w vs 40w). My K2 is set for SSBA of 3, and SSBC of 3-1. My KSB2 firmware is 1.07 I have seen a few references to mods on the KSB2, including swapping resistors to increase mic gain. I have also seen references that they should not be done on K2/100 units. Are there any internal mic gain mods that can be used on the KSB2 in a K2/100? Is there anything else I can do short of the external mic amp? I also notice that sometimes I get full power on the first "letter", sometimes it starts lower on "whiskey 1" and bumps up on "papa alpha" -- anyone else seen this on the K2/100? Bill W1PA (K2 FT #61) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for October 29th & 30th, 2006
Good Evening, Wow forty was tough. There was QSB on everyone which is not that unusual but the very faint stations were testing my hearing (if not my sanity). I was wondering if there was someone there or not half the time ;) Near the end I got N?HDR a couple of times but could not hear even a whisper of the number. However, everyone seemed about half strength from normal. We are in a solar wind but the noise level was about normal. I never will figure out propagation; I think it is just plain magic! Sounds like everyone except Curt is experiencing the onset of winter. During the first net I saw something a bit harder than rain fall from the sky for about a minute but it did not even touch the earth before it melted. This is pretty early for snow but the folks in North Dakota and Minnesota are sure it is coming their way tomorrow. Even Fred said it was chilly and he is in California. The lists => On 14050 kHz at z: W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 WA4MQW - Bob - NC - KX1 - 1466 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 W0CH - Dave - MO - K2 - 1543 K4BEH - Pat - GA - K2 - 5061QNI #20! N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 AB9CA - Charles - AL - ?? On 7045.50 kHz at 0300z: W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 QNI #140!!! K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 QNI #40!! N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 AH6RE - Curt - HI - KX1 - 464 QNI #20! W0CH - Dave - MO - K2 - 1543 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 There were a few who I simply could not get on forty meters. On twenty I at least got call signs if I could not complete the exchange. Each week brings new challenges :) Thank you for the relay for W0CH's second check in. I got his call at the end but had very tough copy on him during our forty meter contact. Even AB9V was very tough on forty meters where he is normally fairly strong. Both Minnesota stations were about half strength as was Ken from North Dakota. Something is sucking the RF right out of the aether. Only two KX1s could make the trip this evening. Normally we do much better. I am sorry if I could not hear you or hear you well enough to copy you. Next week the slate is clean and we try again. Until next week stay warm and stay healthy, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
Ken Alexander wrote: Hi Don, and all other responders, I guess I'll have to shop around for a better USB to serial adapter. My desktop computer is far too noisy to use with any HF equipment running. If you mean *electrically* noisy (as opposed to acoustically noisy), chances are it's the monitor that is generating most of the noise, and replacing it with an LCD type monitor will reduce it a lot. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Mic Gain, K2/100
Bill, The Yaesu MH31 mic will normally drive the K2 to full output with no problem. I really cannot coment on the difference between your Yaesu and the K2 power out as indicated on your meter - I do not know how your particular meter responds, but I know you have a mic gain control on the Yaesu front panel, and it can be easily overdriven giving the appearance of greater power output. The K2 LED will indicate the peak output power in most cases. For any particular power setting, switch to CW and key the K2 while observing the LED meter (in RF mode of course) to see how many LEDs are illuminated. Then switch to SSB - if the peaks go up to the same point as you saw in the CW test, you are driving the K2 to full PEP output. If you want more average power, increase the compression setting. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I was finally able to get my K2 (#0061) upgraded to a K2/100 just > prior to > CQWW this past weekend. The KPA100 was bought in 2004 and sat on > a shelf for > a year or two. > > Anyway, I was doing some A/B checks after completing and testing > the unit, > while trying to call some stations on 20 meters. > > I compared a Yeasu FT-890 to the K2/100. > I noticed there were a few stations that I called and called on > the K2, that > were then workable in one or two calls after switching over to > the FT-890. I > did some power checks, and found that in CW mode, the K2 was the same, if > not slightly more power (reading on the same meter, same antenna, > using an > A/B switch) > > But on SSB, the voice peaks of the K2 are 25-30% lower than those of the > FT-890. I am using dynamic mikes on both radios... on the K2 > it's a Yaesu > MH-31 Mic. I also used this mic on both radios and noted voice > power peaks > almost twice that of the K2 (70 w vs 40w). My K2 is set for SSBA > of 3, and > SSBC of 3-1. My KSB2 firmware is 1.07 > > I have seen a few references to mods on the KSB2, including swapping > resistors to increase mic gain. I have also seen references that > they should > not be done on K2/100 units. > > Are there any internal mic gain mods that can be used on the KSB2 in a > K2/100? Is there anything else I can do short of the external mic amp? > > I also notice that sometimes I get full power on the first "letter", > sometimes it starts lower on "whiskey 1" and bumps up on "papa > alpha" -- > anyone else seen this on the K2/100? > > Bill > W1PA (K2 FT #61) > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for October 29th & 30th, 2006
I listened and searched, but heard nothing in Glendale, AZ. Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kevin Rock Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 9:10 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for October 29th & 30th, 2006 Good Evening, Wow forty was tough. There was QSB on everyone which is not that unusual but the very faint stations were testing my hearing (if not my sanity). I was wondering if there was someone there or not half the time ;) Near the end I got N?HDR a couple of times but could not hear even a whisper of the number. However, everyone seemed about half strength from normal. We are in a solar wind but the noise level was about normal. I never will figure out propagation; I think it is just plain magic! Sounds like everyone except Curt is experiencing the onset of winter. During the first net I saw something a bit harder than rain fall from the sky for about a minute but it did not even touch the earth before it melted. This is pretty early for snow but the folks in North Dakota and Minnesota are sure it is coming their way tomorrow. Even Fred said it was chilly and he is in California. The lists => On 14050 kHz at z: W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 WA4MQW - Bob - NC - KX1 - 1466 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 W0CH - Dave - MO - K2 - 1543 K4BEH - Pat - GA - K2 - 5061QNI #20! N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 AB9CA - Charles - AL - ?? On 7045.50 kHz at 0300z: W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 QNI #140!!! K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 QNI #40!! N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 AH6RE - Curt - HI - KX1 - 464 QNI #20! W0CH - Dave - MO - K2 - 1543 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 There were a few who I simply could not get on forty meters. On twenty I at least got call signs if I could not complete the exchange. Each week brings new challenges :) Thank you for the relay for W0CH's second check in. I got his call at the end but had very tough copy on him during our forty meter contact. Even AB9V was very tough on forty meters where he is normally fairly strong. Both Minnesota stations were about half strength as was Ken from North Dakota. Something is sucking the RF right out of the aether. Only two KX1s could make the trip this evening. Normally we do much better. I am sorry if I could not hear you or hear you well enough to copy you. Next week the slate is clean and we try again. Until next week stay warm and stay healthy, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Mic Gain, K2/100
There were some mods that changed the gain distribution within the K2 RF and audio paths that some suggested could increase the IMD. I suspect that's where the comments about not doing them on a KPA100 came from, although it's hard to see how an S-9 signal running 5 watts is any less sensitive to IMD issues than an S-9 signal running 100 watts . One change you can make that only increases the input from the mic and doesn't affect the gain distribution within the K2 is to increase the value of R14 on the KSB2 module. The "stock" value is 1K. Raising it to 5K or more has helped a lot of rigs make full output from an existing mic without extra help. Since it's at the microphone input it has the same effect as using a slightly "hotter" microphone. Don mentioned a mic that should work. In general it seems that dynamic mics are more likely to have marginal output for driving the K2 to full output. I originally used a dynamic mic on my K2/100 and switched to an electret element that had considerably more output. The bargraph on the K2 is will show you the peak output. Since the RF output on SSB is a function of audio and RF levels, and the RF gain in the transmitter is lowest on 10 meters, that's a good band to check if you want to be sure you have full output on all bands with a given mic. Be sure to set the compression level to where you want it before checking. Higher compression levels require a little more audio from the mic. On voice peaks the last bar on the bargraph should just flicker at times in RF mode. A better way is to switch to ALC mode on the bargraph. The bargraph reads backwards in ALC mode to remind you that you're not in RF mode. If the right-most bar flickers on voice peaks running 100 watts, you are getting all the output you can use. The flickering bar indicates that the K2 is turning down the gain to hold the RF level to 100 watts. As you reduce the power level below 100 watts, you'll see more bars light up on peaks, indicating that the ALC is turning the gain down more and more to hold the output to the requested power. As long as one bar flickers, more audio gain won't make your signal any louder. About the level changing after the first syllable, you'll see the same thing on CW mode too sending the first dit or dah. That's a function of how the power control works. The POWER knob sets a requested power level. When you transmit the K2 senses the actual output power and the ALC circuit then adjusts the RF gain in the transmitter to provide the requested power. It may take a moment for this to happen, so you'll often see a higher or lower power on the first syllable (or code element in CW) until the ALC circuit has time to react. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
- Original Message - From: "Mike Short" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Some issues with the USB/serial adapter. It may not be stable, or is dropping Data. The data rate on the K2 is fairly slow. I agree - looks like the USB <=> COM port converter does either not receive enough power from the PC and/or you need a newer driver. This is a common problem. I assume the serial cable is OK and conforms to the special Elecraft specification. Simon Brown, HB9DRV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
