[Elecraft] KRX3: Poor Sensitivity on Aux Antenna Port

2008-12-06 Thread Scott Prather

This evening I finished installation of the KRX3 that I ordered back in
April, and I ran into a problem with poor sensitivity on the Aux port I
thought others might be interested in.

After I completed installation of the KRX3 and went through the requisite
VCO calibration, filter setup, etc., I found that the receiver worked
flawlessly on the main antenna, but sensitivity on the Aux port was poor
(about 30 dB below that of the Main antenna port). Thinking that I might
have a bad TMP cable from the KRX3 Aux port to the KAT3, I pulled the KRX3
out, removed the KRX3 circuit board from the shield, and used an ohmmeter to
confirm continuity. All was well. I reassembled the KRX3 and reinstalled it,
same problem. I then removed the top portion of the shield while the KRX3
remained in situ, and sensitivity on the Aux port was normal.

Spark arrestor, SA1, is mounted very close to the edge of the circuit board.
In my KRX3, this component has "leaning" towards the outside edge of the
board sufficiently to allow the top shield to short it to ground. Bending
the leads of SA1 just slightly so that it was away from the edge of the
board resolved the problem.

Scott
N7NB

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[Elecraft] K3 Procat Cool 5.5 Update Rev 75

2008-12-06 Thread Don Rasmussen
Hello all,

I've been coding again and have added front panel AGC threshold control to the 
K3 Procat Cool 5.5 program in addition to DSP filter width. Cool Setup also 
allows you to choose a value (2 to 8) that the threshold will be set to upon 
execution as the starting point. Stop by and check my page if you are 
interested.

73,
Don

http://tinyurl.com/5a5ak5


http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/Procat_Cool_for_Windows
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[Elecraft] Not a K3, for sure - Early dual diversity receiver

2008-12-06 Thread Ken Kopp

Stan, others ...

The large cabinet in the lower-right corner of the photo
is the Hallicrafters dual diversity receiver I wrote about.

http://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/catalogs/1939

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]




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[Elecraft] Elecraft Covers

2008-12-06 Thread Tony Morgan
If you are considering a cover for your Elecraft rig, please consider 
the covers that Rose Kopp makes.

I ordered one for my K3 and Hex key and they are great products.
Fit is perfect and communication and speed of delivery is outstanding.
You won't be disappointed.
Contact her at:


[EMAIL PROTECTED]

73,

Tony W7GO
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[Elecraft] OT: 160/80 M Rx loops

2008-12-06 Thread Ken Kopp
I've had enough off-reflector questions about my loop that an 
on-reflector reply is probably warranted.


I've had mine in use for 25+ years and early-on had it mounted 
on a small TV rotator.  The directional characteristics of a loop

are such that there's little/no reason to rotate it -UNLESS- you
want to take advantage of the very deep and narrow null off each
side of the loop to null noise ... or the mega-KW ERP contest
station ... in the next county. (;-).  


My loop is made from 1/2" "hardline" with a 1/8" break in the
shield at opposite the feed point. Either 50 or 72 ohm coax is
OK ... there's no difference in this application. The circumference 
of a loop should not exceed .06 wavelength, BTW.  There is a 
two-transistor preamp at the feedpoint of mine that's powered 
w/12VDC via the coax running to the loop.  The feedline is about 
500' of 72 ohm (RG-59) coax. 


A Google search of "160M receive loops" or "BCB receive loops"
will produce lots of information.

Some "serious" loop users ground their TX antenna ... especially 
verticals ... while receiving because of the re-radiation of noise from

the vertical into the loop.

73!  Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Elecraft] K3: New/ Old QSK

2008-12-06 Thread Barry Simpson
I agree that the weighting is too light with the New QSK enabled.

Barry Simpson  VK2BJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: New/ Old QSK

2008-12-06 Thread Paul Christensen
Listening in the headphones, I detect little difference in weighting and 
T/R recovery time.


I made that comparison while listening to the side-tone.  When listening to 
my K3'd off air CW signal on another receiver, the weighting difference 
between New QSK and Old is certainly perceptible.


Paul, W9AC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: New/ Old QSK

2008-12-06 Thread Paul Christensen
Go to CONFIG and select CW WEIGHT. Then press the "3" key on the numeric 
keypad to toggle it.

It doesn't seem to make much of a difference for me.
73,
Vic, K2VCO


Using the most current K3 F/W, I compared the New versus Old QSK 
configuration using a dual-trace scope and an external keyer modified with a 
buffered output for scope triggering.


Under the "Old" QSK setting, the CW envelope rises ~ 15 ms after contact 
closure versus ~ 19 ms for "New."  Under "Old," the keyed RF envelope more 
closely matches the external contact closure duration.


Listening in the headphones, I detect little difference in weighting and T/R 
recovery time.  I haven't had time to compare the two modes under varying 
AGC and band conditions, but unless I detect some anomaly, I am leaving my 
K3 set for "Old. QSK."


Paul, W9AC 


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2008-12-06 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   As I sit here the sky is fading from a very nice sunset.  The day was clear 
and crisp with full sun until late in the afternoon.  We are due for some more 
rain but this week has had a few days of sun; unusual for Oregon this time of 
year.  On a short hike today I did find some signs of frost in the shade.  
Winter is on its way.
   Propagation was pretty good on twenty meters this week but that was before 
the latest solar stream hit.  I was told things got a little odd after that but 
I have not been on the air to hear for myself.  I will check into the MARS net 
tonight (I hope) to see what conditions are like on the lower frequencies.  
Hopefully all will be well for tomorrow's nets.

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP  help)
 
Monday z (Sunday 4 PM PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 7 PM PST)  7045 kHz
 
   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

ecn.visionseer.com

-
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Re: [Elecraft] HPS-1a Gamma Hybrid,Communications Power Supply

2008-12-06 Thread Jim Miller
I use one with my K3/10.

73

jim ab3cv
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RE: [Elecraft] HPS-1a Gamma Hybrid,Communications Power Supply

2008-12-06 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I have one for casual portable operation. I hear it just a little bit, so I
wouldn't use it at home where a full-sized linear supply is available.

Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Doug Phillips
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 3:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] HPS-1a Gamma Hybrid,Communications Power Supply

Is anyone using the HPS-1a with their K3?

73, Doug W7RDP
K3 1937
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Re: [Elecraft] HPS-1a Gamma Hybrid,Communications Power Supply

2008-12-06 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU

It works at 100W SSB with 10-20dB compression.
For CW at 20WPM you need to go down to 70W or so.
It would not be good for RTTY or MFSK or other 100% duty cycle modes 
past 20W or so.  Think of it as a 5A switching supply if you're usign 
100% duty cycle.

Leigh/WA5ZNU

Is anyone using the HPS-1a with their K3?

73, Doug W7RDP
K3 1937
_


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[Elecraft] HPS-1a Gamma Hybrid,Communications Power Supply

2008-12-06 Thread Doug Phillips

Is anyone using the HPS-1a with their K3?

73, Doug W7RDP
K3 1937
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hands On

2008-12-06 Thread Elliott Lawrence
Thanks for all of the offers received. I've located one near by and will take 
advantage of the generous opportunity.
73
Elliott WA6TLA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Elliott Lawrence 
  To: Elecraft List 
  Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 2:00 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Hands On


  I'm looking for a hands on demonstration of a K3.  One with a subreceiver 
would be desirable but not mandatory.  I'm on the westside of Los Angeles.

  Please contact me off the reflector if it is possible to see one in the flesh!

  73
  Elliott WA6TLA


--


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RE: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 hearing no Signals

2008-12-06 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I tried this on the K3 Utility, and the Field Test feedback was that the
right-to-left order was "weird".  So I just put in a note in Help that the
figures are right to left as viewed from the front of the K3.

The XFIL icons on the front panel are also left to right, which was further
support to putting the K3 Utility columns in a 1-5 order.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 1:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 hearing no Signals

Ed, W0SD, wrote:

For future reference for people searching as to why there KRX3 is not 
hearing any signals be sure the filters are installed in the slots they 
are supposed to be.  You will have noise and the sub controls will work 
but you are not hearing any signals.  I know what I am going to write 
sounds simplistic but read on there is more to it than one would think. 
  I am well aware of filter placement as I have put together two K3's 
and as I was putting the KRX3 together my XYL Edith W0OE mentioned the 
manual information that the widest filter needs to be first.  It does 
not have to be in FL1 but it has to be first.  I told her "THANKS I AM 
AWARE OF THAT"!  How I did it I will never know but I proceeded to start 
with the wide filter in FL5 and then FL4, FL3, FL2 leaving FL1 open. 
Somehow in turning the board back and forth I messed up.

-

I suspect the root of the problem is that most of us are used to working
left to right, and the K3 filter layout in the rig is right to left. 

Yours and other comments have me thinking that in the next update I'll
redesign the table so, instead of going down the rows FL1 through FL5, it'll
be laid out horizontally with FL1 at the *right* and FL5 at the left end,
just as they are laid out in the K3 and KRX3, with the bandwidths and
offsets on the rows under them.


Ron AC7AC


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RE: [Elecraft] Vista Driver for Prolific USB to Serial

2008-12-06 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I got mine from Microsoft as part of Windows Update. 

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Frank MacDonell
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 2:17 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Vista Driver for Prolific USB to Serial

Long afternoon. Computer just died. Does anyone have ideas for
installing a Vista compatible driver for the K3 USB to Serial Cable.
Thanks!
FJM

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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[Elecraft] WTB: K2/100

2008-12-06 Thread NZ8J
Looking for a late serial number K2/100 with at least 160, audio filter
and noise blanker. More options even better. If you have something like
this for sale, please send details to include serial number, firmware
versions,  physical and electrical condition, options and mods if any.
Must be from a non smoking environment.

Thanks 
Tim
NZ8J
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.15/1833 - Release Date:
12/6/2008 4:55 PM

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[Elecraft] No TX audio

2008-12-06 Thread Howard Klein


HK

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: No TX audioDate: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 
18:12:28 +

I recently installed the KRX3 in my K3. At the same time I moved some filters 
and installed an additional one on the main board . I now have the problem of 
no audio on SSB. Works FB on CW. I am thinking the culprit is likely to be the 
2.7KC filter on the main board. Before opening up things again I thought I 
would ask for some suggestions.Howard..K2HK 
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RE: [Elecraft] Vista Driver for Prolific USB to Serial

2008-12-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Complete instructions are here:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KUSB_Manual_Rev_B.pdf

Note that at last check (about a week ago) there are drivers for the Vista
32 bit OS, but not Vista 64 bit. 

Anticipating more 64 bit applications appearing soon, more home computers
are being pre-loaded with the 64 bit Vista OS. That just happened to me but,
having a desktop system I'll add an RS232 board to it and avoid the whole
USB/RS232 adapter issue.

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Frank MacDonell
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 2:17 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Vista Driver for Prolific USB to Serial

Long afternoon. Computer just died. Does anyone have ideas for
installing a Vista compatible driver for the K3 USB to Serial Cable.
Thanks!
FJM

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
___

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[Elecraft] Vista Driver for Prolific USB to Serial

2008-12-06 Thread Frank MacDonell
Long afternoon. Computer just died. Does anyone have ideas for
installing a Vista compatible driver for the K3 USB to Serial Cable.
Thanks!
FJM

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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[Elecraft] K3 Hands On

2008-12-06 Thread Elliott Lawrence
I'm looking for a hands on demonstration of a K3.  One with a subreceiver would 
be desirable but not mandatory.  I'm on the westside of Los Angeles.

Please contact me off the reflector if it is possible to see one in the flesh!

73
Elliott WA6TLA___
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[Elecraft] Reminder - UK Elecraft net Sundays 1000 local, 3630 KHz

2008-12-06 Thread Dave G4AON
The frequency as always is plus or minus the QRM. Note the start time of
1000 hours to try and minimise European QRM.

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole

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RE: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 hearing no Signals

2008-12-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Ed, W0SD, wrote:

For future reference for people searching as to why there KRX3 is not 
hearing any signals be sure the filters are installed in the slots they 
are supposed to be.  You will have noise and the sub controls will work 
but you are not hearing any signals.  I know what I am going to write 
sounds simplistic but read on there is more to it than one would think. 
  I am well aware of filter placement as I have put together two K3's 
and as I was putting the KRX3 together my XYL Edith W0OE mentioned the 
manual information that the widest filter needs to be first.  It does 
not have to be in FL1 but it has to be first.  I told her "THANKS I AM 
AWARE OF THAT"!  How I did it I will never know but I proceeded to start 
with the wide filter in FL5 and then FL4, FL3, FL2 leaving FL1 open. 
Somehow in turning the board back and forth I messed up.

-

I suspect the root of the problem is that most of us are used to working
left to right, and the K3 filter layout in the rig is right to left. 

Yours and other comments have me thinking that in the next update I'll
redesign the table so, instead of going down the rows FL1 through FL5, it'll
be laid out horizontally with FL1 at the *right* and FL5 at the left end,
just as they are laid out in the K3 and KRX3, with the bandwidths and
offsets on the rows under them.


Ron AC7AC


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RE: [Elecraft] K3: New/ Old QSK

2008-12-06 Thread Dick Dievendorff
See the K3 owner's manual revision D-1, page 53, under the "CW WGHT" topic.


 

"Tap 3 to select OLD or NEW QSK (default). NEW QSK reduces keying artifacts
in the presence of QRN or QRM. OLD mutes/unmutes slightly faster."

 

Dick, K6KR

 

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Barry Simpson
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 1:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: New/ Old QSK

 

What is new/ old QSK ?  I cannot find such a menu/ config setting.

 

Barry Simpson  VK2BJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: New/ Old QSK

2008-12-06 Thread Vic K2VCO

Barry Simpson wrote:

What is new/ old QSK ?  I cannot find such a menu/ config setting.


Hi Barry,

Go to CONFIG and select CW WEIGHT. Then press the "3" key on the numeric keypad 
to toggle it.

It doesn't seem to make much of a difference for me.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] K3: New/ Old QSK

2008-12-06 Thread Barry Simpson
What is new/ old QSK ?  I cannot find such a menu/ config setting.

 

Barry Simpson  VK2BJ

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[Elecraft] K3: KRX3 hearing no Signals

2008-12-06 Thread Ed Gray W0SD
For future reference for people searching as to why there KRX3 is not 
hearing any signals be sure the filters are installed in the slots they 
are supposed to be.  You will have noise and the sub controls will work 
but you are not hearing any signals.  I know what I am going to write 
sounds simplistic but read on there is more to it than one would think. 
 I am well aware of filter placement as I have put together two K3's 
and as I was putting the KRX3 together my XYL Edith W0OE mentioned the 
manual information that the widest filter needs to be first.  It does 
not have to be in FL1 but it has to be first.  I told her "THANKS I AM 
AWARE OF THAT"!  How I did it I will never know but I proceeded to start 
with the wide filter in FL5 and then FL4, FL3, FL2 leaving FL1 open. 
Somehow in turning the board back and forth I messed up.


What makes this more tricky than the filters on the main board of the 
K3?  First of course the top shield soon covers your mistake.  Secondly 
what make it even more tricky with the KRX3 the K3 only checks for 
correct filter placement in the main rig for the FLTX settings that 
affect the transmitter and mode (ERR TXF for example). In the SUB, it is 
solely up to you to get them right.


Thirdly what really fooled me was I used the K3 utility and made changes 
to the KRX3 filters and changed things on FL1 in the KRX3 and sent them 
to the radio.  I also set the filters up from the CONFIG setting so 
everything appears to be fine but in fact there was no filter at all in 
FL1 so the "ONLY" way to figure it out is to visually look at the filter 
placements.  That is the only way to find this mistake in the KRX3 other 
than starting to trace the rcv signal which I was about ready to to. BTW 
Elecraft support has an excellent test procedure for this. The good news 
is when I pulled the top shield off I spotted the wrong filter placement 
instantly and just could not believe I made a stupid mistake like that. 
I took 4.5 hours with a break to put the KRX3 together and still made 
the mistake!  I think when you know something you can easily become 
careless.


I also got ERR VC4  E 00039 which required an adjustment of T1 windings 
on the sub synth board.  Don't do this without instructions on how to do 
it. That problem was not my fault.  It is just one of those things and 
was a real easy fix.


Others have commented on the front panel removal!  I concur it is not a 
big deal.  The only thing that I would emphasize is when you put in the 
BNC for the Aux RF to note the instruction about "NOT" taking out the 
one screw. I dropped the stand off down in the radio and it took a lot 
of messing to get it out!!!


After having the KRX3 board with the shield on in and out of the radio 
more times than I care to mention you eventually find you can get the 
cables routed quite nicely out of the way.  At first it does not seem so 
but keep adjusting things as the cables can be placed so it comes in and 
out easily.


BTW I was reading the KDVR3 manual and the front panel steps are 
basically the same as the KRX3 removal of the front panel.


What a mad rush to get things working with the KRX3 on Thursday and then 
working right up until the 160 meter contest to get the two new 
bi-directional beverages hooked up and get everything interfaced to the 
K3 and try and learn how to use the RX antenna "AND" the sub-rcv "AND" 
diversity and provide some additional protection from RF getting into 
the radio.  We had a whole 30 minutes to spare!  Joe W0DB is operating 
here at W0SD and he has a lot of choices.  It is so impressive what the 
K3 with the sub and with all the filters can do.  The noise blanker also 
works the best of anything I have every used.  The two best previously 
was the TR-4 years ago when mobile and the FT-1000B.  Not only does it 
take out the noise it handles the strong signals with ease!!!  I never 
seen anything like it.   In this case for CW we are using the 500 hz and 
200 hz on the main board and on the sub.  Joe was down to 50 hz with the 
DSP and we still had QRM.  Given I am told 50 hz is about the best you 
can do with your head the QRM on 160 meters in the contest is something 
to behold!!!  I have had Collins line, Drake Line, ICOM, FT-1000D, 
TS-950SDX, etc.  This is truly the greatest radio I have ever owned. 
With the KRX3 installed and the KXV3 the flexibility for antenna 
switching and diversity reception of signals is something not found 
anywhere.  We have a switch so we can use the 7 rcv antennas either as 
rcv antennas to the RX in on the KXV3 or we can use them on the AUX RF 
in for the sub or sub using diversity.  There are other ideas we have 
but this is all we had time for getting everything going.


Ed W0SD




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[Elecraft] OT: [K3] Poor man's beverage and diversity

2008-12-06 Thread Ken Kopp

In preparation for a 160M contest one winter I took a 5000' reel
of #22 ga insulated hook-up wire and tied the free end to a fence
post.  I then took off walking across the adjacent gold course and
into the field beyond, the general direction of Japan while unspooling
the wire behind me.

The snow drifts kept the wire from laying completely on the ground,
but at least there were no golf carts to snare it, and little likelihood
of a stray snowmobile. (:-))  It worked well, but I now have a single
turn hardline loop that does the tick just as well.

Oh ... after the contest I reeled up back onto the reel and it's still
in the barn.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 



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[Elecraft] [K3] Poor man's beverage and diversity

2008-12-06 Thread Vic K2VCO
My 160-meter transmitting antenna is a 'T' -- an 88-foot dipole with open-wire feeders 
tied together and fed against some elevated radials running around the eaves of my house. 
The vertical part is about 40 feet (12.2m) high.


I have always had the problem that this antenna picks up a huge amount of noise of all 
types. But I live on a lot that's about 50' x 120' in the middle of a city and there's 
very little room for additional antennas.


A few minutes before the start of the ARRL 160m contest I decided to try something I'd 
heard about. I took about 180 feet (55m) of wire and laid it on the ground from my shack, 
across the backyard, around the back of my garage and all the way down the edge of the 
driveway.


It turned out to be an excellent 160m receiving antenna! I expected that signals would be 
very weak, but they were almost as strong as on the transmitting antenna. My antenna 
analyzer showed an SWR of about 2.5:1. And, most important, the s/n ratio was much, much 
better.


I connected it to the AUX input of the sub-receiver and activated diversity mode with a 
(very) long hold of the SUB button. I went to the CONFIG menu and set for SUB AF = BALANCE 
so that the sub's AF gain control would act as a balance control between the two receivers.


This works great! I can hear signals get stronger in one ear when they QSB in the other. 
And for signals which come in better on one antenna than the other, I just turn the 
balance control.


Even if you don't have a subreceiver, you should try the "poor man's beverage" (no, I 
don't mean wine in cardboard boxes) receiving antenna. Although the directivity is sort of 
arbitrary, the noise is way down compared to a vertical.


The contest will still be going tonight. Try it, there is no antenna that is easier to 
install!

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Things to watch with the KRX3

2008-12-06 Thread Ed Gray W0SD
Thanks for sharing these items Bill.  I can add one to the list. 
Obviously most of us know that the widest filter we are using "HAS" to 
be first (lowest in number) slot.  Somehow and I have no idea how I 
accidentally started at FL5 thinking it was FL1. Of course when you put 
the top shield on you can not you made a mistake.  What makes it even 
more interesting there is no way to know they are wrong other than you 
don't hear anything as you do not get an error message with the KRX3. 
With filters in the wrong slot on the K3 main board you get an error 
message.  Also the K3 software utility when you go to the KRX3 will show 
them as you put them  in the software(it does not read the KRX3 
configuration-it just writes to it and there is no indication anything 
is wrong.  For example it appears you are making changes to FL1 which in 
my case there was no filter there.  The only way to get it right is to 
visually see that you have the filters where they are supposed to be. 
Fortunately when I pulled the top shield off I immediately spotted my 
stupid mistake.


On your last question if you hold down sub(longer than a tap) you toggle 
between link and unlink.  However when you go to link if you hold the 
sub button in longer you see the word link and a bit later that is 
replaced by word diversity.


Ed W0SD

William Evans wrote:

Hello,
I received my KRX3 two weeks ago, and, after much difficulty, have 
finally got it installed and working. Here are the problems I 
encountered (All due to my incompetence, but maybe this will help others)


1)  If you place the screws, washers and sleeves in a tin muffin pan for 
sorting, be sure the pan is securely fastened to the desk or table so 
you will not knock it off, scattering all the tiny pieces. (Ask me why 
this one if first!)


2)  When you place the plastic shield over the battery, use another 
piece of tape to hold the shield on the circuit board.  Otherwise it can 
be pulled off the battery while installing the KRX3 in the K3. You will 
know that the battery cover came off when all the panel lights go out 
when you attempt to turn on the K3.


3)  When placing the top shield in the KRX3, be sure not to pinch L33 
between the shield and the circuit board.  This WILL break the lead on L33.


4)  Check at least 5 times to be sure the pins line up correctly when 
you place the KRX3 into the radio.  Of course on the last attempt to 
line up all pins you will get them one off.


5)  Go to CONFIG:KRX3 and select either ANT=BNC or ANT=ATU, depending 
upon how you have selected the received signal to enter the SUB 
receiver.  If you do not do this, the SUB Receiver will seem to not have 
an antenna connected to it. (Mainly because it really WON'T have an 
antenna connected to it!)


6)  If you have not already done so, go to Elecraft's web site and 
download the software and INCLUDE the software for the DSP2.


7)  If you selected to use the AUX antenna input, and wired it for that 
mode( and selected CONFIG:KRX3:ANT=BNC), you MUST go to EACH BAND, 
select BSET and then select the AUX antenna for that band.  Otherwise, 
you will not have any antenna connected to the SUB receiver.


8)  If the sensitivity is low on both the Main Receiver and the SUB 
receiver, check the 6" TMP cable from J5 on the KREF3 board to J82 on 
the KRX3.  If the shield is broken, the S meter is reduced by at least 5 
S units and you cannot, no matter how many times you try, increase the S 
meter reading by calibrating it.


9)  If you are listening to the SUB receiver and attempt to change mode, 
it will not change unless you select BSET first.  Do not keep pushing 
the mode button, wondering why it is not working!


10)  Always remember to plug the speaker back in before tightening all 
nine screws in the top.  And while you have the top cover off, check to 
be sure all screws are connected to the stiffening bar. (You did 
remember to replace that, didn't you?)


Finally it seems to be working... but I have one question.  Why, on one 
occasion as I was pushing the SUB button, did the word "diversity" 
appear, but I have not seen it at any other time?  What am I doing/not 
doing right this time?


BTW, with my record of stupid mistakes, I would probably be a good 
candidate to beta test the writing of the manuals!


Bill
W4ISH
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[Elecraft] Things to watch with the KRX3

2008-12-06 Thread William Evans

Hello,
I received my KRX3 two weeks ago, and, after much difficulty, have  
finally got it installed and working. Here are the problems I  
encountered (All due to my incompetence, but maybe this will help  
others)


1)  If you place the screws, washers and sleeves in a tin muffin pan  
for sorting, be sure the pan is securely fastened to the desk or table  
so you will not knock it off, scattering all the tiny pieces. (Ask me  
why this one if first!)


2)  When you place the plastic shield over the battery, use another  
piece of tape to hold the shield on the circuit board.  Otherwise it  
can be pulled off the battery while installing the KRX3 in the K3. You  
will know that the battery cover came off when all the panel lights go  
out when you attempt to turn on the K3.


3)  When placing the top shield in the KRX3, be sure not to pinch L33  
between the shield and the circuit board.  This WILL break the lead on  
L33.


4)  Check at least 5 times to be sure the pins line up correctly when  
you place the KRX3 into the radio.  Of course on the last attempt to  
line up all pins you will get them one off.


5)  Go to CONFIG:KRX3 and select either ANT=BNC or ANT=ATU, depending  
upon how you have selected the received signal to enter the SUB  
receiver.  If you do not do this, the SUB Receiver will seem to not  
have an antenna connected to it. (Mainly because it really WON'T have  
an antenna connected to it!)


6)  If you have not already done so, go to Elecraft's web site and  
download the software and INCLUDE the software for the DSP2.


7)  If you selected to use the AUX antenna input, and wired it for  
that mode( and selected CONFIG:KRX3:ANT=BNC), you MUST go to EACH  
BAND, select BSET and then select the AUX antenna for that band.   
Otherwise, you will not have any antenna connected to the SUB receiver.


8)  If the sensitivity is low on both the Main Receiver and the SUB  
receiver, check the 6" TMP cable from J5 on the KREF3 board to J82 on  
the KRX3.  If the shield is broken, the S meter is reduced by at least  
5 S units and you cannot, no matter how many times you try, increase  
the S meter reading by calibrating it.


9)  If you are listening to the SUB receiver and attempt to change  
mode, it will not change unless you select BSET first.  Do not keep  
pushing the mode button, wondering why it is not working!


10)  Always remember to plug the speaker back in before tightening all  
nine screws in the top.  And while you have the top cover off, check  
to be sure all screws are connected to the stiffening bar. (You did  
remember to replace that, didn't you?)


Finally it seems to be working... but I have one question.  Why, on  
one occasion as I was pushing the SUB button, did the word "diversity"  
appear, but I have not seen it at any other time?  What am I doing/not  
doing right this time?


BTW, with my record of stupid mistakes, I would probably be a good  
candidate to beta test the writing of the manuals!


Bill
W4ISH
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RE: [Elecraft] Doing all additions at once

2008-12-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
You might "split the difference" on the hardware installs. 

The KDVR3 and Aux DSP board for the KRX3 require pulling the front panel
assembly. Also, if you are planning to do the microphone grounding mod
covered in the app note (to eliminate the "pin 1 problem") you can do them
at the same time. Until you enable the KRX3 option, your K3 won't know the
aux DSP board is installed, so you can check out your KDVR3 and any mods
you've made after putting the front panel back on without the rest of the
KRX3. Indeed, that's what we recommend kit builders do if they have the KRX3
on hand when assembling the basic kit. 

After you know the K3 is working properly with the front panel replaced, you
can proceed with the rest of the KRX3 install and any other mods you have in
mind, such as the "speaker amp" mod, etc., that are all done on the main
part of the K3 and don't require pulling the front panel again. 

I agree with Don that the hardware installs are well understood and tested,
as are the mods covered in the app notes. Firing up your K3 after working on
the front panel assembly is just a nice way to confirm that nothing was
amiss in the reassembly. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 4:01 AM
To: David Ferrington, M0XDF
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Doing all additions at once

Dave,

That question has a 'double edged sword' answer, so "it all depends".
1) Either you make an error in applying the mod -
2) OR (IMHO more likely) you create some unrelated problem when you 
reassemble the K3.

Reassembling and checking after each mod will reveal the first type 
problem, but it certainly will compound the likelihood that you will 
create a problem of the 2nd type.  And doing the troubleshooting is 
mentally difficult because one usually associates the problem to the mod 
that was installed.

Unlike software changes, these hardware changes have been installed by 
several users and the side effects (if any) are well known - it is not 
like making a change for the first time.

My vote is to do them all at once, but YMMV depending on your confidence 
level.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
> I now have a lot of various extras and mods to add to my K3 - KRX3, 
> KDVR3, all the mods
>  - all because I haven't had the time or need to practice SMD or are 
> waiting for the last bits (some of which I've asked Elecraft to hold 
> so they ship as one) - all of which are going to arrive soon :-)
>
> It looks like there are some many dependancies on taking this off and 
> that apart, that it might be easier to do them all in one go - but 
> what are the risks of me missing something and then not being able to 
> figure out what that something is?
>
> In the software world, we never (should never) make multiple changes 
> without inter-step testing - but to test at each stage means putting 
> it back together again, using it bit and then taking it apart for the 
> next bit.
>
> What do people think here?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] RF Feedback Mod

2008-12-06 Thread David Pratt

In a recent message, Roy Morris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote ...

While I have the front panel off to install the KDVR3, I would like to
jumper L4 on the front panel board.  Can this mod be done without
separating the PC board from the front panel?  Is there a pictoral
somewhere that shows this mod?


It's here, Roy:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/K3%20Application%20Note%20Front%20Panel%20Microphone%20Grounding.pdf

73
--
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--


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Re: [Elecraft] Fldigi 3.03 Rig Control for K3

2008-12-06 Thread Julian, G4ILO

Another tip for using Fldigi with the K3 and my rig control file: you need to
set "RTTY is USB" in the configuration settings for the RTTY modem.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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[Elecraft] [K3] RF Feedback Mod

2008-12-06 Thread Roy Morris
While I have the front panel off to install the KDVR3, I would like to jumper 
L4 on the front panel board.  Can this mod be done without separating the PC 
board from the front panel?  Is there a pictoral somewhere that shows this mod? 
 Also the L7 on the KIO3 board?  Thanks  Roy Morris  W4WFB___
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Re: [Elecraft] Fldigi 3.03 Rig Control for K3

2008-12-06 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Frank MacDonell wrote:
> 
> I have a k3/10 that works great with HRD via the serial cable on on
> COM4. But I cannot establish rig control with fldigi. I have read the
> instructions and exhausted alternatives. Hoping someone can help.
> Thanks. This is such a great resource.
> 
Hi Frank. I have uploaded the rig control file I use to
http://www.g4ilo.com/files/k3.xml . Download it, (you probably have to
right-click the link and select Save As or your browser will try to open it)
and save it as rig.xml. Open the file in notepad and change the com port
settings so that they match your system (you will probably need to change at
least the com port number.) Then move it to the place where Fldigi keeps its
settings. On XP that is Documents and Settings//fldigi.files.

In Fldigi itself, in the Rig Control settings, choose the RigCAT tab and
tick "use RigCAT" and "use RigCAT PTT", then save the settings and restart
the program. Hopefully that will get it going!

I did send this file to W1HKJ as the K2 and K3 XML files you can download
from there don't work, but he never put them on his web page.

By the way, Fldigi for Windows 3.03 has an annoying bug, at least on my
system, in that when you close it, it asserts RTS on the COM port (possibly
DTR as well) and if you have the K3 PTT options set up to use one or other
of those (perhaps because of some other software you use that does PTT using
the control signals) then it puts the K3 into transmit on exit. So it is a
good idea to set all the PTT options to OFF as well. I did report that issue
to W1HKJ but it may have gone the same way as my XML file submission.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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Re: [Elecraft] NEW QSK -- Internal/External Keyer

2008-12-06 Thread Bob Cunnings
I played around with NEW/OLD QSK a bit and find that when when keying
with a strong signal on freq that that NEW QSK makes a significant
difference and I much prefer it, at least for speeds up to 25 wpm or
so.

Bob NW8L

On Fri, Dec 5, 2008 at 8:39 AM, W7TEA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Under Config: CW Wght: tap 3 is the choice between NEW and OLD QSK. NEW is
> supposed to reduce keying artifacts when experiencing heavy QRN or QRM
> by delaying full rx recovery a bit. I notice a slight difference between NEW
> and
> OLD QSK, slight but helpful.
>
> I've been trying my IdiomPress K-3 keyer instead of the internal keyer to
> gain
> the use of the M1-M4 buttons for programmable functions and still retain
> CW message play by using the IdiomPress keyer. But I'm having difficulty
> determining whether NEW QSK works with external keying. (SSB+CW
> works, CW WGHT would not of course.)Anyone know about NEW/OLD QSK?
> My ears seem to tell me that it does not, but I'm just not sure.
>
> Gary W7TEA
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: QSK with external keyer

2008-12-06 Thread inventor_sixty_one
Allan

Thanks for the comment, to which I concur.  BTW I found my
configuration error.  I use a WinKeyer USB externally, which
interfaces well with my logging programs.  My temporary problem was
self-induced, and in the PC configuration.

Indeed, the K3 QSK is as good as any of my TenTec radios, and the 'new
QSK' function works nicely.  Even using my TenTec 422 amplifier in VOX
mode, I am 'clean' to speeds where I cannot possibly copy anyway.

To say I'm happy with this rig is a tremendous understatement.  And
I'm one of the pickiest, hard-to-please guys you'll ever find
(according to the XYL).

73 Steve KZ1X/4

* * *

On Sat, Dec 6, 2008 at 10:02 AM, Allan Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have yet to use the internal keyer. My external keyer (LogiKey K-3) does
> just great. Very smooth and enjoyable QSK.
>
> Allan K7GT
>
> On Fri, Dec 5, 2008 at 11:39 PM, inventor_sixty_one
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> I am wondering how/if I can key my K3 using an external keyer, with
>> the same QSK action that I have when using my paddles?
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Re: [Elecraft] Stream and Vista for MFSK

2008-12-06 Thread Rick Kunath

Julian, G4ILO wrote:

A lot of amateur developed software (including mine) has never been tested
on Vista. I can't speak for Stream, but Fldigi will do MFSK and it should
run under Vista (at least, there is a screenshot of it on the developer's
site that has obviously been made under Vista.) Why not try that. At least
it might shed some extra light on the situation.


Yes Fldigi will run under Vista.

You'll want the install package ending with winV.zip for Vista, the 
package ending with win.zip will run on 2k through XP.


Various other packages are also available for installation under Linux.

Fldigi is an excellent multi-mode digital package that supports a wide 
variety of digital modes, and is in constant active development. Watch 
for a new version fairly quickly, that has even more features.


Rick Kunath, k9ao
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[Elecraft] Fldigi 3.03 Rig Control for K3

2008-12-06 Thread Frank MacDonell
I have a k3/10 that works great with HRD via the serial cable on on
COM4. But I cannot establish rig control with fldigi. I have read the
instructions and exhausted alternatives. Hoping someone can help.
Thanks. This is such a great resource.

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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[Elecraft] K3: 2.1kHz Filter For Sale in UK

2008-12-06 Thread paul.bradbeer2
As new, in original box, Elecraft KFL3A-2.1k  2.1kHz 8-pole filter for sale 
within UK.  £55 including postage.  Contact Paul M0CVX [EMAIL PROTECTED], 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or 07794 333164.  Thanks,  Paul.

-
Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email
Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam

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SV: [Elecraft] Stream and Vista for MFSK

2008-12-06 Thread Lennart Michaelsson

Julian, G4ILO wrote:
A lot of amateur developed software (including mine) has never been tested
on Vista.

and the same goes for DX4Win which cannot be loaded under Vista OS and used
for logging and/or rig control. They say they are working on it.

Lennart
SM7BIC

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[Elecraft] K3 and the digital modes

2008-12-06 Thread Lynn Lamb, W4NL

Thanks,

For the many who responded to my question on hook-up for the K3 using the 
digital modes, THANKS.


It works with MixW using the two cables from the in/out of the K3 to the 
mic/speaker on the computer along with a serial cable for rig control.  Once 
I figured out that 'line in' had a gain control automatically selected when 
'main/mic sel' was in the 'line in' position!  It's where we normally adjust 
the mic gain control.   Neat.


I placed this in PF-1 memory which makes it easily to select when moving 
back and forth from digital to CW/SSB.  And using the K3 at about 2.5 watts 
into a THP SS amp at 10/12 watts on the digital modes, everything runs very 
cool.


It's a learning process but with good help here on the reflector, it was 
possible and again thanks for the thoughtful help.


Side bar:  The dual PB feature for CW is great and thanks to Ralph, K1ZZI/4 
for calling that to my attention.  I still can't believe all the goodies 
this rig has.


CU, lynn W4NL 


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Re: [Elecraft] Stream and Vista for MFSK

2008-12-06 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Tom Price wrote:
> 
> I am interested in MFSK. I loaded IZ8BLY's stream. It "can not open audio
> device". I'll bet there is a setting somewhere in Vista (32 bit) to allow
> access to it. Stream "sees" my soundcard. It shows in preferences. Am I
> barking up the right tree or is there a newer application or maybe a newer
> version of stream? I am also interested in Larry Phipps LP-Pan setup.
> 
> 
A lot of amateur developed software (including mine) has never been tested
on Vista. I can't speak for Stream, but Fldigi will do MFSK and it should
run under Vista (at least, there is a screenshot of it on the developer's
site that has obviously been made under Vista.) Why not try that. At least
it might shed some extra light on the situation.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Stream-and-Vista-for-MFSK-tp1621341p1622158.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and IC- 2KL; negative voltage modification

2008-12-06 Thread chen dave
I use IC-2KL and K3 in home, only use PTT cable. 40-50w to get 500w output.
no problem at all.

73 de ba4rf/David

On Sat, Dec 6, 2008 at 7:54 PM, OE5CSP-Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
>
>  Original-Nachricht 
> > Datum: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 04:56:09 -0800 (PST)
> > Von: "Ron N9RC (via Nabble)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> > An: OE5CSP-Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and IC- 2KL; negative voltage modification
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I use the K3 with a 2KL.  I have the parts for auto band switching
> (decade
> > band info convertor) but have yet to build it.  The max power setting I
> > use
> > is 25 watts for 500 watts out but have to watch the K3 power closely.
>  The
> > 2KL trips out easily when over driven and depending on band, mode and
> > antenna SWR (worst case 1.5:1) I have to reduce the K3 power to as much
> as
> > 12 watts to avoid trips.  I believe the K3 "may" have  a power spike on
> > first sylable that causes some of the trips.  I do not use ALC but as
> > things
> > settle I may try it.  I use the MFJ 600 watt auto tuner with the 2KL and
> > generally it works quite well.  I was not happy with a AT-500 I had.
> >
> > Ron, N9RC
> >
> >
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> Thanks for your reply!
>
> Which kind of band decoder are you using? How did you connect your K3 with
> the 2KL? I guess with a single cable from the key out (K3) to the T/R
> control terminal, right? I´m a bit scared of harming the K3 or 2KL, because
> of wrong connections. Is there anything else I have to think of?
>
> I´m also using the AT 500 tuner and I sometimes have problems too.
> Sometimes the tuner does not want to tune at all, so I use a little trick. I
> engage the internal IC 761 tuner and then the AT500 starts tuning. I turn
> the internal tuner off and everything works fine.
>
>
> 73, Chris-OE5CSP
> --
> Pt! Schon vom neuen GMX MultiMessenger gehört? Der kann`s mit allen:
> http://www.gmx.net/de/go/multimessenger
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-IC--2KL--negative-voltage-modification-tp1617415p1621971.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Doing all additions at once

2008-12-06 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Thank you Don, I'm aware of your considerable experience with all  
things Elecraft and will take your valued advice - it will be easier  
that way anyway.

If anything over confidence is my problem :-)
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

--
A child, like your stomach, doesn't need all you can afford to give it.
-Frank A. Clark, writer (1911- )

On 6 Dec 2008, at 12:01, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Dave,

That question has a 'double edged sword' answer, so "it all depends".
1) Either you make an error in applying the mod -
2) OR (IMHO more likely) you create some unrelated problem when you  
reassemble the K3.


Reassembling and checking after each mod will reveal the first type  
problem, but it certainly will compound the likelihood that you will  
create a problem of the 2nd type.  And doing the troubleshooting is  
mentally difficult because one usually associates the problem to the  
mod that was installed.


Unlike software changes, these hardware changes have been installed  
by several users and the side effects (if any) are well known - it  
is not like making a change for the first time.


My vote is to do them all at once, but YMMV depending on your  
confidence level.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I now have a lot of various extras and mods to add to my K3 - KRX3,  
KDVR3, all the mods
- all because I haven't had the time or need to practice SMD or are  
waiting for the last bits (some of which I've asked Elecraft to  
hold so they ship as one) - all of which are going to arrive soon :-)


It looks like there are some many dependancies on taking this off  
and that apart, that it might be easier to do them all in one go -  
but what are the risks of me missing something and then not being  
able to figure out what that something is?


In the software world, we never (should never) make multiple  
changes without inter-step testing - but to test at each stage  
means putting it back together again, using it bit and then taking  
it apart for the next bit.


What do people think here?



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Re: [Elecraft] Doing all additions at once

2008-12-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

That question has a 'double edged sword' answer, so "it all depends".
1) Either you make an error in applying the mod -
2) OR (IMHO more likely) you create some unrelated problem when you 
reassemble the K3.


Reassembling and checking after each mod will reveal the first type 
problem, but it certainly will compound the likelihood that you will 
create a problem of the 2nd type.  And doing the troubleshooting is 
mentally difficult because one usually associates the problem to the mod 
that was installed.


Unlike software changes, these hardware changes have been installed by 
several users and the side effects (if any) are well known - it is not 
like making a change for the first time.


My vote is to do them all at once, but YMMV depending on your confidence 
level.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I now have a lot of various extras and mods to add to my K3 - KRX3, 
KDVR3, all the mods
 - all because I haven't had the time or need to practice SMD or are 
waiting for the last bits (some of which I've asked Elecraft to hold 
so they ship as one) - all of which are going to arrive soon :-)


It looks like there are some many dependancies on taking this off and 
that apart, that it might be easier to do them all in one go - but 
what are the risks of me missing something and then not being able to 
figure out what that something is?


In the software world, we never (should never) make multiple changes 
without inter-step testing - but to test at each stage means putting 
it back together again, using it bit and then taking it apart for the 
next bit.


What do people think here?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and IC- 2KL; negative voltage modification

2008-12-06 Thread OE5CSP-Chris


 Original-Nachricht 
> Datum: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 04:56:09 -0800 (PST)
> Von: "Ron N9RC (via Nabble)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> An: OE5CSP-Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and IC- 2KL; negative voltage modification

> 
> 
> 
> I use the K3 with a 2KL.  I have the parts for auto band switching (decade
> band info convertor) but have yet to build it.  The max power setting I
> use
> is 25 watts for 500 watts out but have to watch the K3 power closely.  The
> 2KL trips out easily when over driven and depending on band, mode and
> antenna SWR (worst case 1.5:1) I have to reduce the K3 power to as much as
> 12 watts to avoid trips.  I believe the K3 "may" have  a power spike on
> first sylable that causes some of the trips.  I do not use ALC but as
> things
> settle I may try it.  I use the MFJ 600 watt auto tuner with the 2KL and
> generally it works quite well.  I was not happy with a AT-500 I had.
> 
> Ron, N9RC
> 
>

Hi Ron,

Thanks for your reply!

Which kind of band decoder are you using? How did you connect your K3 with the 
2KL? I guess with a single cable from the key out (K3) to the T/R control 
terminal, right? I´m a bit scared of harming the K3 or 2KL, because of wrong 
connections. Is there anything else I have to think of?

I´m also using the AT 500 tuner and I sometimes have problems too. Sometimes 
the tuner does not want to tune at all, so I use a little trick. I engage the 
internal IC 761 tuner and then the AT500 starts tuning. I turn the internal 
tuner off and everything works fine. 


73, Chris-OE5CSP
-- 
Pt! Schon vom neuen GMX MultiMessenger gehört? Der kann`s mit allen: 
http://www.gmx.net/de/go/multimessenger

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-IC--2KL--negative-voltage-modification-tp1617415p1621971.html
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[Elecraft] Doing all additions at once

2008-12-06 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I now have a lot of various extras and mods to add to my K3 - KRX3,  
KDVR3, all the mods
 - all because I haven't had the time or need to practice SMD or are  
waiting for the last bits (some of which I've asked Elecraft to hold  
so they ship as one) - all of which are going to arrive soon :-)


It looks like there are some many dependancies on taking this off and  
that apart, that it might be easier to do them all in one go - but  
what are the risks of me missing something and then not being able to  
figure out what that something is?


In the software world, we never (should never) make multiple changes  
without inter-step testing - but to test at each stage means putting  
it back together again, using it bit and then taking it apart for the  
next bit.


What do people think here?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice,
but in practice there is.

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