Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread The Smiths

You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't automatically sync 
with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line on the P3 CAN be and usually is 
off by as much as 99Hz. No matter how you look at it, if you can move a Center 
position on the P3 with the select knob in the CENTER adjustment  mode, and 
it doesn't change from the reading of 10.000.0 until you get up to 10.000.1 or 
down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that SOMETHING is changing between those 
two positions which just happen to be 100Hz apart from each other.
Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down to 9.999.999 before 
the display on the P3 center line changes, than obviously the K3 and the P3 are 
not in sync to the Hz.
 
Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig, put it on 10.000.000  
Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say that it does (according to 
you it should), now, turn your VFO knob up until the P3 reads 10.000.1.  Where 
is your K3 displaying? I'm sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.  I know mine 
sure isn't, and that's after I set that center as close as possible.  My rig 
displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off.
Take your VFO move it down until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3 
display? Mine says 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra 2 
digits in order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal.
You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set 
correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of wack by that 
much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just confuses things more.
 
I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head in the sand 
and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3 with 000Hz accuracy.  
When you center that marker and hit the QSY button you are going to move the 
CENTER of that carrier on the display as far or as close to the center that you 
just calibrated it to.
You're just wrong.. I'm sorry.  I don't know why Alan hasn't just come on here 
and said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since we've been discussing 
this.
 
The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys that don't mind 
coming within 100Hz of the QSY freq.  I don't know if you do CW, but I do, and 
when I land 80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz filter on it makes a 
difference.  The P3 was designed with SSB guys in mind, NOT cw guys.  The 
accuracy of the center display, and the tremendous warm up drift all indicate 
it.
I love my P3, and I'm having fun with it, but if Alan wants to make this 
friendly to the CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys use.  
He's going to have to 1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center, then 
the Ref-cal alignments, and then 2 - add the extra 2 digits to the center 
display freq.
This is NO different that putting your K3 on 10.000.000 and setting up the Zero 
beat on your Config: Ref Cal.  You just wouldn't do it that way if you didn't 
know that your K3 wasn't parked at exactly 10.000.000.
 
You can disagree all you like. I've made my point, shown my facts,  and I'm not 
going to argue any further on the reflector.  Feel free to contact me off the 
reflector if you need me to explain further.  That goes for Alan as well, I 
would love to talk with you and explain what's going on here if my explanation 
doesn't make sense to you.
 
 

 
 From: br...@livecomputers.com
 Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:53:07 -0700
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: notforc...@hotmail.com
 
 The P3 is centered on the K3 by default. Thus you can read the K3 to
 tell what frequency the P3 is on. It doesn't need the extra precision
 on the P3 display. I didn't read any more than your last post. I
 think you're over analyzing it and making it more complicated than it
 needs to be. Its not that hard to understand whats going on there I
 think most hams would get it. Those who don't get it its probably not
 important to.
 
 ~Brett (N7MG)
 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] How to demo P3/K3?

2010-08-12 Thread David Woolley (E.L)
David Gilbert wrote:
 make them unusable for recording simple RF.   A DVR might not have that 
 problem, although noise and signal levels could still be an issue.  It 
 might also be the case that any standard video recorder (or at least the 
 software associated with it) might try to insert sync pulses on playback.

The lossy compression strategies used in DVRs make them only suitable 
for moving picture for direct human consumption. They do things like 
only encoding the differences between frames, encoding the movement of 
blocks, transmitting a rough update to a frame and then refining it over 
successive frames if it doesn't change, and selective control of spacial 
frequency response.

Because the compression is 3D (two in space and one in time), sync 
pulses are even more important to them.
-- 
David Woolley
we do not overly restrict the subject matter on the list, and we
encourage postings on a wide range of amateur radio related topics
List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Brett Howard
My P3 shows a rounded version of what is on the K3 when they are
synced.  When my K3 says 7.100.000 the P3 shows 7.100.0 when I go to
7.100.050 it goes to 7.100.1 its a rounded version.  So when my P3 and
K3 are synced (by simply pressing center twice) I can read the
frequency on the K3 and know that is the frequency that the P3 is on.
I simply set the K3 to 10.000.000 and then do the ref cal on the P3.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 11:09 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:
 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't automatically
 sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line on the P3 CAN be and
 usually is off by as much as 99Hz. No matter how you look at it, if you can
 move a Center position on the P3 with the select knob in the CENTER
 adjustment  mode, and it doesn't change from the reading of 10.000.0 until
 you get up to 10.000.1 or down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that
 SOMETHING is changing between those two positions which just happen to be
 100Hz apart from each other.
 Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down to 9.999.999
 before the display on the P3 center line changes, than obviously the K3 and
 the P3 are not in sync to the Hz.

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig, put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say that it
 does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob up until the P3
 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3 displaying? I'm sure it's not going to be
 10.000.100.  I know mine sure isn't, and that's after I set that center as
 close as possible.  My rig displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off.
 Take your VFO move it down until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3
 display? Mine says 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra
 2 digits in order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal.
 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set
 correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of wack by
 that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just confuses things more.

 I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head in the
 sand and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3 with 000Hz
 accuracy.  When you center that marker and hit the QSY button you are going
 to move the CENTER of that carrier on the display as far or as close to the
 center that you just calibrated it to.
 You're just wrong.. I'm sorry.  I don't know why Alan hasn't just come on
 here and said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since we've been
 discussing this.

 The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys that don't mind
 coming within 100Hz of the QSY freq.  I don't know if you do CW, but I do,
 and when I land 80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz filter on it makes a
 difference.  The P3 was designed with SSB guys in mind, NOT cw guys.  The
 accuracy of the center display, and the tremendous warm up drift all
 indicate it.
 I love my P3, and I'm having fun with it, but if Alan wants to make this
 friendly to the CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys use.
 He's going to have to 1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center,
 then the Ref-cal alignments, and then 2 - add the extra 2 digits to the
 center display freq.
 This is NO different that putting your K3 on 10.000.000 and setting up the
 Zero beat on your Config: Ref Cal.  You just wouldn't do it that way if you
 didn't know that your K3 wasn't parked at exactly 10.000.000.

 You can disagree all you like. I've made my point, shown my facts,  and I'm
 not going to argue any further on the reflector.  Feel free to contact me
 off the reflector if you need me to explain further.  That goes for Alan as
 well, I would love to talk with you and explain what's going on here if my
 explanation doesn't make sense to you.




 From: br...@livecomputers.com
 Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:53:07 -0700
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: notforc...@hotmail.com

 The P3 is centered on the K3 by default. Thus you can read the K3 to
 tell what frequency the P3 is on. It doesn't need the extra precision
 on the P3 display. I didn't read any more than your last post. I
 think you're over analyzing it and making it more complicated than it
 needs to be. Its not that hard to understand whats going on there I
 think most hams would get it. Those who don't get it its probably not
 important to.

 ~Brett (N7MG)


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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't
 automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line
 on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz.

You're wrong.  The P3 display will never be more than 50 Hz from the
K3 if you calibrate it properly.  Hold center until the Center
Frequency adjust display comes on and then hold Center again.
The P3 center frequency will be calibrated to the K3 frequency ...
the display will change +/- 50 Hz (e.g. it will show 10.000.0 from
9.999.950 to 10.000.049).

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig, put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say
 that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob
 up until the P3 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3 displaying? I'm
 sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.

No, the P3 display will change to 10.000.1 at 10.000.050 as I just
explained above.  The P3 shows the correctly rounded version (not
truncated) of the K3 frequency.  If you want the P3 center frequency
to align with the K3 simply do the Center Center process as
documented in the manual.

 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been
 set correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out
 of wack by that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just confuses
 things more.

If you properly zero the Center as instructed in the manual and
use WWV or an AM broadcast signal with SPAN set to 2 KHz, you will
get REF-CAL set to well less than 0.1 Hz ... probably on the order
of 0.01 Hz.  It's not rocket science ... just follow the instructions
from those who designed the product and stop trying to argue.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/12/2010 2:09 AM, The Smiths wrote:

 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't
 automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line
 on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz. No matter
 how you look at it, if you can move a Center position on the P3 with
 the select knob in the CENTER adjustment  mode, and it doesn't
 change from the reading of 10.000.0 until you get up to 10.000.1 or
 down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that SOMETHING is changing
 between those two positions which just happen to be 100Hz apart from
 each other. Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down
 to 9.999.999 before the display on the P3 center line changes, than
 obviously the K3 and the P3 are not in sync to the Hz.

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig, put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say
 that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob
 up until the P3 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3 displaying? I'm
 sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.  I know mine sure isn't, and
 that's after I set that center as close as possible.  My rig
 displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off. Take your VFO move it down
 until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3 display? Mine says
 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra 2 digits in
 order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal. You
 just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set
 correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of
 wack by that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just confuses
 things more.

 I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head
 in the sand and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3
 with 000Hz accuracy.  When you center that marker and hit the QSY
 button you are going to move the CENTER of that carrier on the
 display as far or as close to the center that you just calibrated it
 to. You're just wrong.. I'm sorry.  I don't know why Alan hasn't just
 come on here and said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since
 we've been discussing this.

 The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys that don't
 mind coming within 100Hz of the QSY freq.  I don't know if you do CW,
 but I do, and when I land 80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz
 filter on it makes a difference.  The P3 was designed with SSB guys
 in mind, NOT cw guys.  The accuracy of the center display, and the
 tremendous warm up drift all indicate it. I love my P3, and I'm
 having fun with it, but if Alan wants to make this friendly to the
 CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys use.  He's
 going to have to 1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center,
 then the Ref-cal alignments, and then 2 - add the extra 2 digits to
 the center display freq. This is NO different that putting your K3
 on 10.000.000 and setting up the Zero beat on your Config: Ref Cal.
 You just wouldn't do it that way if you didn't know that your K3
 wasn't parked at exactly 10.000.000.

 You can disagree all you like. I've made my point, shown my facts,
 and I'm not going to argue any further on the reflector.  Feel free
 to contact me off the reflector if you need me to 

[Elecraft] P3: Connection to the K2

2010-08-12 Thread Heinz Bärtschi
It would be fine if the P3 could provide a configurable K2 emulation mode to 
communicate with the K2 and to support an
appropriate (sub-)set of the exciting P3 functions in conjunction with the K2.
Any pros and cons?

73, Heinz  HB9BCB

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Re: [Elecraft] How to demo P3/K3?

2010-08-12 Thread David Gilbert


Makes sense.

I guess someone wanting a cheap and dirty solution would have to use a 
down-converting mixer and record to a file via a sound card, and then 
mix back to a ham band (assuming, as I suspect would be the case, that 
for a demo they'd be willing to put up with the image and carrier).

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 8/11/2010 11:10 PM, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 David Gilbert wrote:
 make them unusable for recording simple RF.   A DVR might not have 
 that problem, although noise and signal levels could still be an 
 issue.  It might also be the case that any standard video recorder 
 (or at least the software associated with it) might try to insert 
 sync pulses on playback.

 The lossy compression strategies used in DVRs make them only suitable 
 for moving picture for direct human consumption. They do things like 
 only encoding the differences between frames, encoding the movement of 
 blocks, transmitting a rough update to a frame and then refining it 
 over successive frames if it doesn't change, and selective control of 
 spacial frequency response.

 Because the compression is 3D (two in space and one in time), sync 
 pulses are even more important to them.
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[Elecraft] [P3] sn # 108 - arrived today

2010-08-12 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I just received my P3, serial number 108, in Berkshire, England via UPS.
I don't think I'll have time to put this together until next week, but we'll 
see.

It cam with the K3IOBUFFKT - K3 I.F I/O Output buffer mod kit - but I didn't 
realise this and ordered one too, unfortunately, sales didn't spot they were 
providing me with 2.
Only $5 so not a big deal, but if anyone would like one, please get in touch 
privately. This probably applies to European member more than U.S.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
One glance at a book and you hear the voice of another person, perhaps someone 
dead for 1,000 years. To read is to voyage through time.
-Carl Sagan, astronomer and writer (1934-1996)

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[Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Gary Dezern
4 grounding rods and two of those alpha delta gas discharge surge protectors 
couldn't stop mother nature.  It appears my K3 has met a very early death by 
electrocution (from lightning.)

It turns on, but even after an EE INIT, I'm still getting a KP3IO error.  
There's a god awful noise coming from the speaker when its turned on even with 
no antenna attached.  Sounds like wind howling or something.  The autotuner 
sounds like marbles rattling around instead of relays clicking.  The KPA100 
tests are all whacked out:  PAIO TST turns on the fans.  FN1 turns them both on 
at full speed.  FN2 turns them both off.  FN3 turns them back on again.  FN4 
drops the fans back off again.  

I opened the top, but there's no obvious damage inside... nothing is burned 
that I can see.  

I also lost the computer that was attached to the K3... as a matter of fact, 
the USB/serial adapter actually blew apart.  The shell of the DB9 was scattered 
on the floor under my desk and the little circuit board inside is scorched.  
That computer won't turn on.  No visible damage I can see inside.

Another machine, a NAS, that wasn't connected to the radio or even on the same 
power circuit also died.  

I haven't seen any other obvious damage yet.

I hope my insurance covers this... if so, Elecraft can be expecting to see 
another order from me soon.  (Strange way to get a repeat customer, eh?)

Gary / k3wow (formally k3 4407)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Pete Smith
Ouch, and such a young one too!  There's a message here - when Ma Nature 
visits with lightning, unless you're an electrical engineer with a 
perfect station configuration, the only relatively secure way to do 
things is to disconnect everything.  Even a relatively short length of 
cable (RS-232, network, whatever) can pick up enough induced voltage 
from a nearby strike to do damage.


73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000


On 8/12/2010 7:13 AM, Gary Dezern wrote:
 4 grounding rods and two of those alpha delta gas discharge surge protectors 
 couldn't stop mother nature.  It appears my K3 has met a very early death by 
 electrocution (from lightning.)

 It turns on, but even after an EE INIT, I'm still getting a KP3IO error.  
 There's a god awful noise coming from the speaker when its turned on even 
 with no antenna attached.  Sounds like wind howling or something.  The 
 autotuner sounds like marbles rattling around instead of relays clicking.  
 The KPA100 tests are all whacked out:  PAIO TST turns on the fans.  FN1 turns 
 them both on at full speed.  FN2 turns them both off.  FN3 turns them back on 
 again.  FN4 drops the fans back off again.

 I opened the top, but there's no obvious damage inside... nothing is burned 
 that I can see.

 I also lost the computer that was attached to the K3... as a matter of fact, 
 the USB/serial adapter actually blew apart.  The shell of the DB9 was 
 scattered on the floor under my desk and the little circuit board inside is 
 scorched.  That computer won't turn on.  No visible damage I can see inside.

 Another machine, a NAS, that wasn't connected to the radio or even on the 
 same power circuit also died.

 I haven't seen any other obvious damage yet.

 I hope my insurance covers this... if so, Elecraft can be expecting to see 
 another order from me soon.  (Strange way to get a repeat customer, eh?)

 Gary / k3wow (formally k3 4407)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Monty Shultes
Hear, hear.  Second the motion.  I have 16 cables to disconnect and do it 
religiously - Florida is the lightning capital of the universe.  (Of course, 
when my K3 s/n# 699 was brand new, I didn't bother.  Thank you, Gary and 
Elecraft, for restoring it 2 years ago.)

Monty  K2DLJ

 Ouch, and such a young one too!  There's a message here - when Ma Nature
 visits with lightning, unless you're an electrical engineer with a
 perfect station configuration, the only relatively secure way to do
 things is to disconnect everything.  Even a relatively short length of
 cable (RS-232, network, whatever) can pick up enough induced voltage
 from a nearby strike to do damage.


 73, Pete N4ZR
 

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Ideas and questions

2010-08-12 Thread Craig D. Smith
I had previously tried it with FN 1 and FN 2 without success.  I just now
tried it with FN 7 and get the same result.

Brett N7MG who is one of the field testers has indicated that this is, or
has been, a known issue - so I am confident that it will be resolved in an
upcoming firmware revision.  In the meantime, it is no big deal.

73   Craig  AC0DS


Try moving that function to another button.. For example, use F7, and
that's where I have mine now without issue.  See if that works for you.
 

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[Elecraft] P3 ship notification

2010-08-12 Thread Philip Leonard
Received shipping notification last night (8/11).  I ordered mine 
sometime around 1430CST on 4/16 so they are into day 2 now.

Philip

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Jim McDonald
Don’t assume that you have to replace the radio.  Several boards had to be
replaced (over $1600) in mine after an April strike, but the modularity of
the radio made it possible to repair it.  I wanted to keep the insurance
claim as low as I could as I had other damage, but I would have replaced the
radio if it were necessary.  René at Elecraft did a great job.

I had what I thought was a very good ground system, but it was a huge strike
and I hadn't disconnected.  (That was an expensive lesson!)

My K3 damage came from the RS232 as well, I think.  I have wireless
internet, a Motorola Canopy unit mounted then on my tower.  One of the
lightning paths was down the Ethernet line from the tower, through a
Motorola lightning arrestor on my grounding panel at the house entrance, and
to the computer router, which was damaged.  It zapped (technical term) my
computer's NIC and the 4-port ByteRunner serial card and continued on to the
radio, I think.  No damage came through the coax (two ICE arrestors).

I moved the internet unit off my tower and made other improvements,
including adding a Tripp-Lite DB9 surge protector (MOVs, I assume) at the
K3.  My new computer is connected to the router via RF instead of Ethernet
even though it's only a few feet away.

Jim N7US


-Original Message-


4 grounding rods and two of those alpha delta gas discharge surge protectors
couldn't stop mother nature.  It appears my K3 has met a very early death by
electrocution (from lightning.)

It turns on, but even after an EE INIT, I'm still getting a KP3IO error.
There's a god awful noise coming from the speaker when its turned on even
with no antenna attached.  Sounds like wind howling or something.  The
autotuner sounds like marbles rattling around instead of relays clicking.
The KPA100 tests are all whacked out:  PAIO TST turns on the fans.  FN1
turns them both on at full speed.  FN2 turns them both off.  FN3 turns them
back on again.  FN4 drops the fans back off again.  

I opened the top, but there's no obvious damage inside... nothing is burned
that I can see.  

I also lost the computer that was attached to the K3... as a matter of fact,
the USB/serial adapter actually blew apart.  The shell of the DB9 was
scattered on the floor under my desk and the little circuit board inside is
scorched.  That computer won't turn on.  No visible damage I can see inside.

Another machine, a NAS, that wasn't connected to the radio or even on the
same power circuit also died.  

I haven't seen any other obvious damage yet.

I hope my insurance covers this... if so, Elecraft can be expecting to see
another order from me soon.  (Strange way to get a repeat customer, eh?)

Gary / k3wow (formally k3 4407)



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[Elecraft] P3 Notification

2010-08-12 Thread Doug Joyce
Yesterday I received notification from Olivia of shipment within 7 to 10 
days of the P3  ordered approx noon EST on the 16th of April.  Looks like 
they have completed the initial group from the 15th.

73  Doug  VE3MV 

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[Elecraft] Outstanding Service Again

2010-08-12 Thread David M. Elliott
Even though this is a very busy time with the early shipping of the P3s and one 
of the Elecraft service techs on vacation, I still had a major problem 
diagnosed and a new board sent to me overnight.  my K3 was back in operation in 
less than 24 hours.

Great job guys.

73 de W6BK
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[Elecraft] P3 Reference Calibraton Error

2010-08-12 Thread Bill W4ZV


Brett Howard wrote:
 
 The center follows the K3 you can tell where it is based on the fact
 that there is a K3 next to you.  So long as you've got the two synced
 and don't have a center offset in you know where the center is.
 

Correct.  I believe his confusion is thinking the P3 display is controlling
the K3, but it's actually the other way around.

1.  First calibrate the K3 to WWV using the K3 Manual procedure.  With a
good ear (or other methods) you can do this to 1 Hz.  The K3 should be
reading 15.000.000 with FINE resolution and you should hear no beating or
change in pitch when switching between UCW and LCW.

2.  The P3's Center line tracks the K3 so P3 CF is exactly indicating the
K3's frequency (15.000.000) even though the display is rounded (i.e.
15.000.0).  So far we have not touched our P3 at all.

3.  Next calibrate the P3's spectrum display per the manual procedure by
using Ref Cal to shift the spectrum display so that it centers on the center
line.  Use the minimum SPAN (2.0 kHz) and adjust Ref Cal in 10 Hz steps
until the spectrum display is best aligned on the center line.  I find this
easiest to do if you set SCALE = 10 and adjust REF LVL so the signal peak is
mid-scale in the P3 display.  Adjust Ref Cal so the signal shoulders are
symmetrical about the center, or as close to symmetrical as possible, given
the 10 Hz adjustment resolution.

Potential sources of error are:

1.  Drift in K3 reference oscillator (49.38 MHz).
2.  Drift in P3 reference oscillator (60 MHz).
3.  Adjustment resolution of the P3's Ref Cal steps.  Adjustment steps are
10 Hz (at the P3's 60 MHz clock).  At WWV's 15 MHz (1/4 of 60 MHz), each
adjustment step is 1/4 of 10 Hz = 2.5 Hz, which results in a maximum 1/2
step uncertainty (1.25 Hz) in adjustment resolution when centering the P3
display.

The P3's adjustment error (e.g. 1.25 Hz at 15 MHz) is accurate enough to
easily hit 50 Hz bandwidth filters when using the minimum SPAN (even
assuming some reference oscillator drift).

There may be other minor rounding errors in the DSP but I'll let the
nit-pickers argue over that.

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] For those of us who have not yet bought a P3

2010-08-12 Thread Larry - K2GN
Fred is right on!
I would add that besides putting something in the subject. Like K2 it should
be in brackets, [K2].  Reason, if it's K2, the email filter will catch K2GN,
and put it in the targeted folder too. 
And, please, like Elecraft requested, your text at the top with pertinent
information from the original post below. Sure makes it a lot easier to
read.
Thanks,
de K2GN - Larry - http://k2gn.com
K3 S/N - 3278P3 S/N - 51

==previous post==

Would it be fair to ask that, if you're posting about QSY or 
markers, you put P3 in the subject?  How about KPA500 if that's 
what your post is about?  P3 is the big topic now, KPA500 will likely 
overtake it once it is delivered.  Occasionally someone posts something 
about my K3 I'd like to read, less often about my K2, and hardly ever 
these days about my KX1, which I've begun to use more and more since I 
got active in SOTA.

A simple request to make a big difference for your comrades, and I'm one 
of them.

73,

Fred K6DGW

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Re: [Elecraft] For those of us who have not yet bought a P3

2010-08-12 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
This is also stated in the list guidelines posted earlier this week. 

73,
Eric
Elecraft List Modulator, Moderator, etc.
www.elecraft.com
_..._



On Aug 12, 2010, at 7:10 AM, Larry - K2GN k...@comcast.net wrote:

 Fred is right on!
 I would add that besides putting something in the subject. Like K2 it should
 be in brackets, [K2].  Reason, if it's K2, the email filter will catch K2GN,
 and put it in the targeted folder too. 
 And, please, like Elecraft requested, your text at the top with pertinent
 information from the original post below. Sure makes it a lot easier to
 read.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Reference Calibraton Error

2010-08-12 Thread Bill W4ZV


Bill W4ZV wrote:
 
 3.  Adjustment resolution of the P3's Ref Cal steps.  Adjustment steps are
 10 Hz (at the P3's 60 MHz clock).  At WWV's 15 MHz (1/4 of 60 MHz), each
 adjustment step is 1/4 of 10 Hz = 2.5 Hz, which results in a maximum 1/2
 step uncertainty (1.25 Hz) in adjustment resolution when centering the P3
 display.
 

Both Al's previous post which I missed and a PM from Lyle correct the above:

The P3 is dealing with the 8.215 kHz IF frequency regardless of the signal
frequency that is displayed on the center of the screen, so the steps are
more like ((8.215/60)*10=) 1.4 Hz.

73,  Bill



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Tom W8JI
I'm going to disagree with the popular but misplaced notion that when 
lightning hits nothing can be done to prevent damage other than a complete 
disconnect.

The real problem is almost always that people pepper the station with 
protection devices but use poor wiring layouts or poor entrance schemes. 99% 
of the protection is in  the layout and bonding, not in the protection 
devices we throw into the system.

I'm not saying you should not use protection devices, just that they are not 
anywhere near the solution.

We have got to start thinking in terms of ground loops or common mode paths 
through the gear, and not depending on devices that let 700 volts in or out 
to protect solid state devices. It's the poor lead routing and ground 
bonding that really kills our gear. Especially when the power mains ground 
and the shack ground have any significant impedance between them.

73 Tom


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[Elecraft] [P3] Firmware Reload

2010-08-12 Thread Don Cunningham
I forgot, in the heat of playing with a new toy, to pass something along that 
may help others.  My P3 came loaded with the latest firmware, so I was happily 
using it, and having some strange issues,  like excessive display flickering, 
signals not centered, readout on P3 not matching K3's dial, etc.  I was in the 
midst of reading the calibration section of the manual, loading P3 utility and 
several other things at once and I just happened to reload the P3 firmware 
really just to see if all was okay in my cabling.  Presto, all those issues 
suddenly went away!!!  We too often take firmware for granted, I think, and I 
suspect I may have had some corruption in the download from the factory.  If 
the reload didn't fix mine, I guess I just had a miraculous healing of my P3, 
hi.
73 all,
Don, WB5HAK
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[Elecraft] {k3} PSK31 tuning

2010-08-12 Thread Ron Herman
How does one tune PSK31 on the K3 such that the built in decoder can 
read it. Tuning seems to be very selective and without a waterfall 
nearly impossible to tune. The capture range of the AFC doesn't seem 
to be very wide. The CWT spotting function sometimes helps but only 
on stronger signals. Sensitivity to weak signals doesn't seem to be 
very good either. With digipan on the PC I can decode stuff that I 
can hardly hear. Any ideas?.

Ron, K1PDY

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Re: [Elecraft] {k3} PSK31 tuning

2010-08-12 Thread Lyle Johnson
  1) Use CWT.

2) Use a narrow filter.  Once you find the station you want to copy, 
tighten the filter and retune as necessary.  50 Hz is not too tight.  
300 Hz is too wide.  If you are hearing two stations, then the 
selectivity is not tight enough.

3) Use auto-spot.  You may have to hit it two or three times.  Tuning is 
critical and an error of more than 5 Hz changes from solid copy to no copy.

73,

Lyle KK7P

 How does one tune PSK31 on the K3 such that the built in decoder can
 read it...
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Firmware Reload

2010-08-12 Thread Bill W4ZV


Don Cunningham wrote:
 
 I forgot, in the heat of playing with a new toy, to pass something along
 that may help others.  My P3 came loaded with the latest firmware, so I
 was happily using it, and having some strange issues,  like excessive
 display flickering, signals not centered, readout on P3 not matching K3's
 dial, etc. 
 

Some MAJOR firmware fixes were implemented.  The first thing anyone should
do after turning on their new K3 or P3 is to load the latest firmware. 
Don't be afraid of this...it's very important for best performance and
especially so for a newly introduced product.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread The Smiths

Fair enough, so lets say that you're within 50Hz accuracy then... That still 
wouldn't QSY you to the Zero Beat on CW would it.
 
 From: br...@livecomputers.com
 Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 23:15:02 -0700
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: notforc...@hotmail.com
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
 My P3 shows a rounded version of what is on the K3 when they are
 synced. When my K3 says 7.100.000 the P3 shows 7.100.0 when I go to
 7.100.050 it goes to 7.100.1 its a rounded version. So when my P3 and
 K3 are synced (by simply pressing center twice) I can read the
 frequency on the K3 and know that is the frequency that the P3 is on.
 I simply set the K3 to 10.000.000 and then do the ref cal on the P3.
 
 ~Brett (N7MG)
 
 On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 11:09 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:
  You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't automatically
  sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line on the P3 CAN be and
  usually is off by as much as 99Hz. No matter how you look at it, if you can
  move a Center position on the P3 with the select knob in the CENTER
  adjustment  mode, and it doesn't change from the reading of 10.000.0 until
  you get up to 10.000.1 or down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that
  SOMETHING is changing between those two positions which just happen to be
  100Hz apart from each other.
  Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down to 9.999.999
  before the display on the P3 center line changes, than obviously the K3 and
  the P3 are not in sync to the Hz.
 
  Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig, put it on
  10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say that it
  does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob up until the P3
  reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3 displaying? I'm sure it's not going to be
  10.000.100.  I know mine sure isn't, and that's after I set that center as
  close as possible.  My rig displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off.
  Take your VFO move it down until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3
  display? Mine says 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra
  2 digits in order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal.
  You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set
  correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of wack by
  that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just confuses things more.
 
  I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head in the
  sand and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3 with 000Hz
  accuracy.  When you center that marker and hit the QSY button you are going
  to move the CENTER of that carrier on the display as far or as close to the
  center that you just calibrated it to.
  You're just wrong.. I'm sorry.  I don't know why Alan hasn't just come on
  here and said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since we've been
  discussing this.
 
  The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys that don't mind
  coming within 100Hz of the QSY freq.  I don't know if you do CW, but I do,
  and when I land 80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz filter on it makes a
  difference.  The P3 was designed with SSB guys in mind, NOT cw guys.  The
  accuracy of the center display, and the tremendous warm up drift all
  indicate it.
  I love my P3, and I'm having fun with it, but if Alan wants to make this
  friendly to the CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys use.
  He's going to have to 1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center,
  then the Ref-cal alignments, and then 2 - add the extra 2 digits to the
  center display freq.
  This is NO different that putting your K3 on 10.000.000 and setting up the
  Zero beat on your Config: Ref Cal.  You just wouldn't do it that way if you
  didn't know that your K3 wasn't parked at exactly 10.000.000.
 
  You can disagree all you like. I've made my point, shown my facts,  and I'm
  not going to argue any further on the reflector.  Feel free to contact me
  off the reflector if you need me to explain further.  That goes for Alan as
  well, I would love to talk with you and explain what's going on here if my
  explanation doesn't make sense to you.
 
 
 
 
  From: br...@livecomputers.com
  Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:53:07 -0700
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
  To: notforc...@hotmail.com
 
  The P3 is centered on the K3 by default. Thus you can read the K3 to
  tell what frequency the P3 is on. It doesn't need the extra precision
  on the P3 display. I didn't read any more than your last post. I
  think you're over analyzing it and making it more complicated than it
  needs to be. Its not that hard to understand whats going on there I
  think most hams would get it. Those who don't get it its probably not
  important to.
 
  ~Brett (N7MG)
 
 
  

Re: [Elecraft] P3: Connection to the K2

2010-08-12 Thread Alan Bloom
Right now I'm up to my ears with P3 bug fixes and implementing promised
features.  But when things quiet down a little I definitely want to
modify my K2 to add IF output and work on implementing the K2 command
set in the P3.  It won't be as closely integrated as the K3 but it
should at least provide basic functionality.

Alan


On Thu, 2010-08-12 at 09:18 +0200, Heinz Bärtschi wrote:
 It would be fine if the P3 could provide a configurable 
 K2 emulation mode to communicate with the K2 and to support an
 appropriate (sub-)set of the exciting P3 functions in conjunction 
 with the K2.
 Any pros and cons?
 
 73, Heinz  HB9BCB
 


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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread The Smiths

I agree with you for once Joe... 50Hz sounds right.  If you Ref cal from that 
point than you'll most likely be 4 to 5Hz off.  I've not once been able to get 
it to 1Hz resolution.  Yes, this is enough to hit the spot button, but having 
the extra two digits would be very helpful.  
 
 Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 02:58:27 -0400
 From: li...@subich.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 
 
  You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't
  automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy. The Center line
  on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz.
 
 You're wrong. The P3 display will never be more than 50 Hz from the
 K3 if you calibrate it properly. Hold center until the Center
 Frequency adjust display comes on and then hold Center again.
 The P3 center frequency will be calibrated to the K3 frequency ...
 the display will change +/- 50 Hz (e.g. it will show 10.000.0 from
 9.999.950 to 10.000.049).
 
  Look, try this.. it's a very simple test. Take your rig, put it on
  10.000.000 Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say
  that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob
  up until the P3 reads 10.000.1. Where is your K3 displaying? I'm
  sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.
 
 No, the P3 display will change to 10.000.1 at 10.000.050 as I just
 explained above. The P3 shows the correctly rounded version (not
 truncated) of the K3 frequency. If you want the P3 center frequency
 to align with the K3 simply do the Center Center process as
 documented in the manual.
 
  You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been
  set correctly. If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out
  of wack by that much difference. Moving that Ref cal just confuses
  things more.
 
 If you properly zero the Center as instructed in the manual and
 use WWV or an AM broadcast signal with SPAN set to 2 KHz, you will
 get REF-CAL set to well less than 0.1 Hz ... probably on the order
 of 0.01 Hz. It's not rocket science ... just follow the instructions
 from those who designed the product and stop trying to argue.
 
 73,
 
 ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 8/12/2010 2:09 AM, The Smiths wrote:
 
  You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't
  automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy. The Center line
  on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz. No matter
  how you look at it, if you can move a Center position on the P3 with
  the select knob in the CENTER adjustment mode, and it doesn't
  change from the reading of 10.000.0 until you get up to 10.000.1 or
  down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that SOMETHING is changing
  between those two positions which just happen to be 100Hz apart from
  each other. Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down
  to 9.999.999 before the display on the P3 center line changes, than
  obviously the K3 and the P3 are not in sync to the Hz.
 
  Look, try this.. it's a very simple test. Take your rig, put it on
  10.000.000 Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say
  that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob
  up until the P3 reads 10.000.1. Where is your K3 displaying? I'm
  sure it's not going to be 10.000.100. I know mine sure isn't, and
  that's after I set that center as close as possible. My rig
  displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off. Take your VFO move it down
  until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3 display? Mine says
  9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra 2 digits in
  order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal. You
  just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set
  correctly. If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of
  wack by that much difference. Moving that Ref cal just confuses
  things more.
 
  I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head
  in the sand and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3
  with 000Hz accuracy. When you center that marker and hit the QSY
  button you are going to move the CENTER of that carrier on the
  display as far or as close to the center that you just calibrated it
  to. You're just wrong.. I'm sorry. I don't know why Alan hasn't just
  come on here and said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since
  we've been discussing this.
 
  The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys that don't
  mind coming within 100Hz of the QSY freq. I don't know if you do CW,
  but I do, and when I land 80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz
  filter on it makes a difference. The P3 was designed with SSB guys
  in mind, NOT cw guys. The accuracy of the center display, and the
  tremendous warm up drift all indicate it. I love my P3, and I'm
  having fun with it, but if Alan wants to make this friendly to the
  CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys use. He's
  going to have to 1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center,
  

[Elecraft] PSK tuning [k3]...alternatives for the immediate future

2010-08-12 Thread John Ragle
 Please don't take this comment to be frivolous or intentionally 
snippy...but my take on the decoding functions built into the K3 
firmware is that at this stage they are gimmicks or toys.

 As Ron observes, even an old warhorse like Digipan works much 
better (...more easily, less fussily...) than the K3 routines (and I 
love my K3!). When one considers the range of other digital methods 
available in, e.g. fldigi, it is apparent that Elecraft is thinking in 
the right direction but is not all the way there, YET.

 I use Digipan or fldigi (3.12.5) routinely with my K3 without 
problems. For digital mode operation, SpectraVue is also a very nice 
adjunct program.

 I have every faith that Elecraft will eventually enhance the 
digital decoding functions in the K3. One will still want something like 
SpectraVue to provide a window into the digital ops part of the spectrum 
(or an LP-PAN or a P3, if funds permit). Eventually it will be nice to 
be computer-free if one desires it...portability would be enhanced 
somewhat, though a small laptop (e.g. a netbook) is not much different 
in volume from an LP-PAN or a P3. My small ASUS Eee901 runs software 
like Digipan and SpectraVue without flinching.

 I am not at all a Luddite WRT new solutions...just very oriented 
toward functionality. This is also the reason that I rid myself of my 
Flex 3000.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=

On 8/12/2010 11:46 AM, Ron Herman wrote:
 How does one tune PSK31 on the K3 such that the built in decoder can
 read it. Tuning seems to be very selective and without a waterfall
 nearly impossible to tune. The capture range of the AFC doesn't seem
 to be very wide. The CWT spotting function sometimes helps but only
 on stronger signals. Sensitivity to weak signals doesn't seem to be
 very good either. With digipan on the PC I can decode stuff that I
 can hardly hear.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Totally agree in the majority, but with years in the fire department

Lightning strikes tree next to house.  Single point ground is 80 feet
away on far side of house.  Lightning does not go to ground, and jumps
from trunk of tree to side of house leaving extensive burn mark on
trunk and side of house.  Sets house on fire where it goes through
wall, follows wiring to bathroom where it jumps to copper water piping
and finally goes out the front.  Destroyed power meter, toasted most
appliances, obviously water damage in bedroom end where hot sheet
rock had to be pulled down to get at fire in walls.  Of the conductors
that were followed, only the copper pipe survived.  Mostly charred
holes where the romex was pulled through the walls.

OR,

Lightning strikes power pole in area of very thin soil cover over what
is basically a miles wide rock ledge underneath.  Lightning follows a
phone line into the house, ignores grounds.  Jumps from a telephone
jack across an open room, frying radio and computer equipment setting
on a table in the middle of the room with no cords of any sort
connected anywhere.  Jumped from there to an inside power outlet,
emerged from a power outlet in the hallway, dissipating in a ball of
fire that chased owner down the hall and out the front door.

There's more...all conductors from top of pole to house, including
power company ground conductor to bottom of pole simply
gone...etc...but entertainment value aside...

So yes there ARE throw up your hands cases. In the above seriously
doubt anything could have been done. These are the folklore strikes.

BUT, BUT...

These kinds of things are way, way the tiny minority of events by
comparison, and seem to be more common because the grapevine
propagates and amplifies the gorilla and T Rex strikes for their
entertainment value. The great majority of events in the gray area can
be seriously reduced by attention as specified below, and allow one to
dodge altogether, or mostly or partly dodge, lesser events.  One does
oneself a great service by careful planning for the lessor events.

At my house the lightning events that damaged something, mostly the
electronics in my HVA outside units, were strikes out in the woods
somewhere and all was an induced strike.  HVA guys insist that my
units were 100% code-wired and I was lucky to have damage confined to
a single circuit board. My misfortune is to have them nearly 100' from
the SPG with long copper coolant pipes to the air handlers.  And no,
wife will not hear of relocating them to front side of house near SPG.
 Strategically, the error was not routing power to the west end of the
house.  This happened because the original owner who was also the
builder, built the house in stages, middle first, east end, then west
end.

The most recent lightning event on my property involved a gorgeous
120' poplar tree where lightning literally turned the top half of the
tree into toothpicks in an explosion that scattered leftover poplar
all over a hundred foot radius. The base of the tree was near where my
driveway goes over the creek, and so also where where phone lines
cross the creek (54 inch drainage pipe under driveway).  The lightning
fused conductors in the 4 and 6 pair cables enough that they had to
pick single conductors at the end of the cables to find two undamaged.

The lightning did NOT make it past the single point ground and the
telco gas tube protectors and did NOT damage the PILE of stuff
connected inside the house.  MAYBE, just MAYBE a DSL modem that failed
a year later was related.  But probably not.  The little Motorola
beastie was one of a model which were failing of heat related problems
by the thousands, with which the repair guy was well acquainted.

Learn how to do grounds and protection right and just do it.  In the
end, FAR less trouble to do it right.  Only a hand's count or so of
the readers on this reflector will ever in their lifetimes have to
deal with the gorilla or T Rex strike that swamps protections blowing
up everything in its path.

73, Guy.

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 10:32 AM, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:
 I'm going to disagree with the popular but misplaced notion that when
 lightning hits nothing can be done to prevent damage other than a complete
 disconnect.

 The real problem is almost always that people pepper the station with
 protection devices but use poor wiring layouts or poor entrance schemes. 99%
 of the protection is in  the layout and bonding, not in the protection
 devices we throw into the system.

 I'm not saying you should not use protection devices, just that they are not
 anywhere near the solution.

 We have got to start thinking in terms of ground loops or common mode paths
 through the gear, and not depending on devices that let 700 volts in or out
 to protect solid state devices. It's the poor lead routing and ground
 bonding that really kills our gear. Especially when the power mains ground
 and the shack ground have any significant impedance between 

Re: [Elecraft] P3 Ideas and questions

2010-08-12 Thread Vic K2VCO
The required ref level varies a lot depending on time of day, etc. It would 
still need to 
be adjusted often. I would prefer to see some kind of settable AGC.

On 8/11/2010 9:36 PM, Craig D. Smith wrote:
 After two days with the P3, here are some observations and questions.

 Could the following be considered as part of future firmware upgrades?

 Save the REF LVL, SCALE, and SPAN on a per band basis?  This would reduce
 the need to adjust these when changing bands.

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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[Elecraft] OT: Coax Switch After the Tuner?

2010-08-12 Thread Eric Fitzgerald
Hello Wise and Powerful Reflector;

I have a couple of doublets I feed with balanced line.  The balanced  
line goes to a current balun and then a short coax run (5') to my  
tuner.  After the tuner I have another short coax run (3') to a coax  
switch that places either my antenna analyzer or the rig in the system  
so I can tune the antenna.  I've had it suggested to me that the coax  
switch places my precious K3 in danger.  The fact that this  
arrangement has worked up until this point isn't reassuring.  What say  
you all?

TIA,

73 de Eric, KG6MZS
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[Elecraft] k3 Band Decoders

2010-08-12 Thread Greg - AB7R
I have TWO TopTen Devices Yaesu/K3 band decoders WITH the decoder to K3 
interconnect cables in excellent condition for sale.  Presently in use and they 
will be available after NEXT weekend.  They both have the ability to do 12V 
source 
and sinc.

I would like $100 for each combo (decoder and cable).  New this would cost $180.

Please contact by email or phone at (360)320-3436.

Thanks.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Coax Switch After the Tuner?

2010-08-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Eric,

The only danger to the K3 that I can think of is if you fail to turn the 
switch to the K3 position and subsequently transmit.
If you listen before transmitting, you should be able to determine that 
the switch is incorrect - no signals equal switch in the wrong position.

73,
Don W3FPR

Eric Fitzgerald wrote:
 Hello Wise and Powerful Reflector;

 I have a couple of doublets I feed with balanced line.  The balanced  
 line goes to a current balun and then a short coax run (5') to my  
 tuner.  After the tuner I have another short coax run (3') to a coax  
 switch that places either my antenna analyzer or the rig in the system  
 so I can tune the antenna.  I've had it suggested to me that the coax  
 switch places my precious K3 in danger.  The fact that this  
 arrangement has worked up until this point isn't reassuring.  What say  
 you all?

 TIA,

 73 de Eric, KG6MZS

   
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK tuning [k3]...alternatives for the immediate future

2010-08-12 Thread Lyle Johnson
  They are intended for casual operation and within the confines of the 
LCD panel of the K3.

I've found both the RTTY and the PSK decoder to work well when checked 
against DM780, Digipan, and MMTTY.

But certainly not as quick as clicking on a waterfall :-)

73,

Lyle KK7P

   Please don't take this comment to be frivolous or intentionally
 snippy...but my take on the decoding functions built into the K3
 firmware is that at this stage they are gimmicks or toys.

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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Lu Romero
This is an excellent point.  

Thank you for illustrating it.  With a narrow filter, 100Hz
resolution does not cut it in CW, although W4TV's proposed
CWT macro magic will work around it, that is, if we could
learn what the macro definitions would be with a programming
manual. :)

I would like to know if this frequency resolution issue,
along with the line cursor thickness and placement, the
memory permanence issues and the Programming Manual
Release are on the product roadmap schedule and will be
addressed in future releases of firmware before I place a P3
on my family's Christmas Present list.

I also agree with a previous poster that it would be
helpful if the markers tallied the VFO selections and some
of the params from the rig were displayed on the P3 screen. 
My station layout is identical to his, with the planned
deployment of the P3 in the center, the computer monitor
above it, the K3 to the right and the computer keyboard
directly below it. 

Although I could rationalize the lack of a screen repeater
of the K3 parameters because I can see those same parameters
(filter settings, frequency, VFO selections) on the computer
logger screen...  

The biggie for me is the resolution and line
thickness/orientation issues.  Im glad you guys are finding
them ad are clearly defining them here.

Thank you, brave pioneers, for geting there before me!  You
seem to wear the arrows in your back rather well.

-lu-w4lt-


Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 06:09:23 +
From: The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
To: br...@livecomputers.com, Elecraft Reflector
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: snt144-w427a43f42e33f3cc62bd7ddf...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't
automatically sync with
the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line on the P3 CAN be
and usually is off by as
much as 99Hz. No matter how you look at it, if you can move
a Center position on the
P3 with the select knob in the CENTER adjustment  mode,
and it doesn't
change from the reading of 10.000.0 until you get up to
10.000.1 or down to 9.999.9
than logic tells you that SOMETHING is changing between
those two positions which
just happen to be 100Hz apart from each other.
Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down to
9.999.999 before the
display on the P3 center line changes, than obviously the K3
and the P3 are not in
sync to the Hz.
 
Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig,
put it on 10.000.000  Now
look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say that it
does (according to you it
should), now, turn your VFO knob up until the P3 reads
10.000.1.  Where is your K3
displaying? I'm sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.  I
know mine sure isn't, and
that's after I set that center as close as possible.  My rig
displays 10.000.042.
That's 58Hz off.
Take your VFO move it down until the P3 says 9.999.9. What
does your K3 display? Mine
says 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the
extra 2 digits in order to
set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal.
You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has
been set correctly.  If
you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of wack by
that much difference. 
Moving that Ref cal just confuses things more.
 
I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting
your head in the sand and
pretending that the P3's center is following the K3 with
000Hz accuracy.  When you
center that marker and hit the QSY button you are going to
move the CENTER of that
carrier on the display as far or as close to the center that
you just calibrated it
to.
You're just wrong.. I'm sorry.  I don't know why Alan hasn't
just come on here and
said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since we've
been discussing this.
 
The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys
that don't mind coming
within 100Hz of the QSY freq.  I don't know if you do CW,
but I do, and when I land
80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz filter on it makes a
difference.  The P3 was
designed with SSB guys in mind, NOT cw guys.  The accuracy
of the center display, and
the tremendous warm up drift all indicate it.
I love my P3, and I'm having fun with it, but if Alan wants
to make this friendly to
the CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys
use.  He's going to have to
1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center, then
the Ref-cal alignments, and
then 2 - add the extra 2 digits to the center display freq.
This is NO different that putting your K3 on 10.000.000 and
setting up the Zero beat
on your Config: Ref Cal.  You just wouldn't do it that way
if you didn't know that
your K3 wasn't parked at exactly 10.000.000.
 
You can disagree all you like. I've made my point, shown my
facts,  and I'm not going
to argue any further on the reflector.  Feel free to contact
me off the reflector if
you need me to explain further.  That goes for Alan as well,
I would 

Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Actually...

In a CW contest, where following packet spots can put you on the exact
same frequency with all the other braying lemmings, contributing to
your signal's non-pickoutable status at the other end, being off the
crowd frequency by 20-50 hertz is a SUCCESSFUL strategy to break
through the pile, practiced ON PURPOSE by top CW contest operators. If
you are following CW packet spots, best to set your XIT up or down
20-30 Hz and leave it there.  DON'T ever use zero offset chasing CW
packet spots.  (It will NOT bother me in the LEAST if all those who
read this think such an assertion is nonsense and never try it out.  I
have outlined one of my competitive edge secrets, and I WON'T mind if
you DON'T use it.)

So being within 50 Hz is QUITE adequate and USEFUL.  And despite given
what seems to be being played as some failure of the P3, one DOES
still have the K3 tuning knob to very quickly adjust to perfect
centering for RTTY, and digital modes.  On the K3, it's the big
easy-to-use same-size-as-the-maxi-boxes knob.  For other transceivers,
consult owner's manual for location and instructions for tuning knob.

50 Hz off will still be within the audible passband on the NARROWEST
K3 passband setting.  Most contesters will use something like 200 or
250 for search and pounce, especially for chasing packet spots.  Many
of these spots will be off 100 or 200 Hz, in addition to carrying
blown calls, which is why the need for a quite wider bandwidth than 50
Hz for any kind of search and pounce operation.

As I have sort of been on the fence as to usefulness of a P3, you have
convinced me that a SPECTRUM DISPLAY, of all things, can be SO
ACCURATE, that by dropping the K3 to within 50 Hz of a VERY sharp
display blip, I would hear the blip station even if I forgot to back
off 50 Hz selectivity before QSY.

In contrast to your presentation that the 50 Hz is some kind of
failure, inattention to proper level of details or some such, you may
have sold the P3 to a long time cranky hard-to-convince,
uses-narrow-filter-settings-all-the-time CW contester, who probably
wasn't going to buy one.

Fixing the P3 50 Hz problem is probably one of these
how-many-angels-fit-on-the-head-of-a-pin controversies with a solution
that doesn't appear to warrant serious Elecraft business development
money when other good stuff is on the way.

But thanks for the dissertation, folks.

73, Guy.

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 12:28 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Fair enough, so lets say that you're within 50Hz accuracy then... That still 
 wouldn't QSY you to the Zero Beat on CW would it.
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 Band Decoders

2010-08-12 Thread Greg - AB7R
That was quick.  One is spoken for...on still available.


-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Thu Aug 12 10:11 , Greg - AB7R  sent:

I have TWO TopTen Devices Yaesu/K3 band decoders WITH the decoder to K3 
interconnect cables in excellent condition for sale.  Presently in use and 
they 
will be available after NEXT weekend.  They both have the ability to do 12V 
source 
and sinc.

I would like $100 for each combo (decoder and cable).  New this would cost 
$180.

Please contact by email or phone at (360)320-3436.

Thanks.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Coax Switch After the Tuner?

2010-08-12 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Your friends are probably concerned that you'll transmit into a very high
SWR if you transmit when the switch is in position to switch the analyzer
into the circuit. Transmitters do not like open or grounded antenna circuits
at the output - they're the ultimate high SWR condition. 

Of course, if you're careful it'll never happen (but never say never, Hi)

Even so, the K3 can handle it, but it's bad practice.

A better approach would be a double pole switch that simultaneously switches
the K3 from the tuner to a dummy load and the analyzer to the tuner. Then,
should you accidentally transmit while the analyzer is in the circuit, the
K3 will see a normal RF load on its output.

Ron AC7AC  

-Original Message-
Hello Wise and Powerful Reflector;

I have a couple of doublets I feed with balanced line.  The balanced  
line goes to a current balun and then a short coax run (5') to my  
tuner.  After the tuner I have another short coax run (3') to a coax  
switch that places either my antenna analyzer or the rig in the system  
so I can tune the antenna.  I've had it suggested to me that the coax  
switch places my precious K3 in danger.  The fact that this  
arrangement has worked up until this point isn't reassuring.  What say  
you all?

TIA,

73 de Eric, KG6MZS

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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Lu Romero
So now I am getting a much better understanding...

What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than 50
cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is somewhat
acceptable.

However, on a Flex, I can click on a signal and be DEAD ON
the signal I have selected.

I have never operated a LP-Pan, but can I assume that it
will function just like the Flex (it is the same software
front end after all)?

And Skimmer's waterfall display is also just as accurate.

This means that if I am a shoot fish in a barrel mult
operator and are combing the band for signals, I would be
much more efficient time wise using a Flex/LP-Pan or a
Skimmer than using a P3 on my K3, even with the Macro Magic
CWT solution, right?  The upside is that no computer is
needed (which is a non trivial thing, IMO).

Will/can the P3/K3 combination approach the accuracy of the
above systems?

-lu-w4lt-


Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 02:58:27 -0400
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 4c639b93.8030...@subich.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3
doesn't
 automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The
Center line
 on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz.

You're wrong.  The P3 display will never be more than 50 Hz
from the
K3 if you calibrate it properly.  Hold center until the
Center
Frequency adjust display comes on and then hold Center
again.
The P3 center frequency will be calibrated to the K3
frequency ...
the display will change +/- 50 Hz (e.g. it will show
10.000.0 from
9.999.950 to 10.000.049).

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig,
put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0.
Let's say
 that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your
VFO knob
 up until the P3 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3
displaying? I'm
 sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.

No, the P3 display will change to 10.000.1 at 10.000.050 as
I just
explained above.  The P3 shows the correctly rounded version
(not
truncated) of the K3 frequency.  If you want the P3 center
frequency
to align with the K3 simply do the Center Center process
as
documented in the manual.

 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center
has been
 set correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have
EVERYTHING out
 of wack by that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just
confuses
 things more.

If you properly zero the Center as instructed in the
manual and
use WWV or an AM broadcast signal with SPAN set to 2 KHz,
you will
get REF-CAL set to well less than 0.1 Hz ... probably on the
order
of 0.01 Hz.  It's not rocket science ... just follow the
instructions
from those who designed the product and stop trying to
argue.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Gary Dezern
I'm kind of new to this whole insurance claim thing... The person I spoke to on 
the phone from the insurance company was pretty insistent that they just wanted 
replacement cost.  

I asked the guy about one of the computers that I built myself from parts, and 
he didn't want to know about all that.  He kept saying just write down how 
much it will cost you to replace the whole computer.  In that case, he 
suggested I put down the computer model as Gary's Built or something.  It's 
possible, I guess, that some insurance companies just assume any electronic 
devices impacted by a lightning strike are considered a total loss.  It's also 
possible that what I was told on the phone was wrong and once I get all the 
paperwork to fill out, the instructions will say something completely 
different.   Whatever...

I'm not assuming I have to replace the radio, but if thats what my insurance 
company wants then I'm not going to argue with them.   It'd certainly be much 
faster to order a brand new radio (even one pre-built) when compared to sending 
one in for repair with unknown damage resulting from a lightning strike. 

I can add together the cost of all the parts in my kit preassembled, but that 
number will be invalid in a couple weeks when the prices go up.  I called 
Elecraft and they don't have or can't give out the new price list, so I just 
have to give the current cost with a note saying that by the time they 
process the claim, the replacement cost will have gone up.  


Oh well, my wife and children are safe, and there appears to be no damage to my 
home.  The rest, while sad, doesn't really matter too much.

Take care / 73
Gary / k3wow (RIP k34407)

On Aug 12, 2010, at 8:58 AM, Jim McDonald wrote:

 Don’t assume that you have to replace the radio.  Several boards had to be
 replaced (over $1600) in mine after an April strike, but the modularity of
 the radio made it possible to repair it. 
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[Elecraft] Free to a good home...OT

2010-08-12 Thread cx7tt
Hola,
I have a OEM battery for a Blackberry, model C-S2. I think it fits the 
8300-8500 and 8700 series of BB. I ordered, received it and opened the 
package before realizing that my 8900 takes diff battery. Unopened meant 
not able to return.
I will be in the states for two weeks starting 16 Aug. FCFS.
73
Tom
CX7TT
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[Elecraft] Elecraft [P3] Idea

2010-08-12 Thread David Robertson
Bob,

I think your idea for fine tuning using the P3 is great. I hope you convayed 
your idea directly to Elecraft.

73
Dave KD1NA


P3 s/n 74 arrived today, went together nicely and works great. I'm
still getting used to it, but as a long-time LP-Pan/PowerSDR-IF user,
I was struck by one thing right away.

With PowerSDR-IF point and click tuning with the mouse is enhanced by
the fact that after pointing and clicking to change the K3 frequency,
one may immediately fine tune the signal with the mouse scroll
wheel. Especially for CW signals, this becomes second nature, a quick,
fluid series of actions - point, click, fine tune up or down to
zero-beat the signal (I do it by ear), using only one hand. This is
good because I can't always point with perfect accuracy, so am often
some tens or hundreds of Hz away from the desired signal. I set the
scroll wheel fine tuning rate to either 10 or 50 Hz per step.

With the P3, when I move the marker and tap the SELECT knob to QSY to
the frequency of some CW signal, rarely end up at zero-beat, often at
least 100-200 Hz away, sometimes more. So, in order to zero-beat I
must move a hand to the K3 and tune it in or press SPOT. I'd rather
finish the job using the hand already on the P3 SELECT knob, it's much
easier that way when it's done repeatedly (search and pounce etc). I
like panadaptor spans of 30 to 40 kHz, but even with narrower spans I
just can't consistently get close enough to zero-beat with a CW signal
on the P3 using the marker.

What I'd like to propose is a P3 fine tune QSY mode (optional,
controlled by menu setting), where the act of QSYing by tapping the
SELECT knob not only changes the K3 frequency, but also:

1. Clears the marker.
2. Puts the P3 into a mode where turning the select knob one way or
the other fine tunes the K3 at some rate like 200 Hz per revolution
or so (a fine rate, maybe adjustable).
3. Then, after any required fine tuning is complete, one more tap of
the select knob disables fine tuning, and it's business as usual.

The marker is cleared in step 1 because otherwise turning the SELECT
knob should continue to move the marker.

So the flow goes like this, with the proposed Fine Tune QSY mode
enabled in menu:

1. Tap MKR A to enable marker.
2. Turn SELECT knob to move marker onto desired signal.
3. Tap SELECT knob to QSY. The marker is cleared. Fine tuning of K3 is enabled.
4. Turn SELECT knob to fine tune (to zero-beat in the CW case, by ear
or using CWT indicator) the desired signal.
5. Tap SELECT knob once more to disable fine tuning, returning to normal state.

MKR B would get the same treatment. This would be perfectly general,
working for all modes, and less tiring when QSYing repeatedly using
the marker.


Bob NW8L


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[Elecraft] [P3] SS Hardware

2010-08-12 Thread Nand Kishore
Hi All,
  Those with P3 in hand.
Have you got SS hardware or normal h/w ?
If possible,I would like to start of with SS h/w
at the outset instead of retrofit at a later date.

Have got mail for P3 confirmation,placed order
on 16Apr'10.

73 es GD DX,
Nandu..VU2NKS with sole K3 in VU
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Brett Howard
No what is going on is the P3 only displays one decimal point after
Khz.  Its dead on and it knows what the actual frequency is its just
that it rounds it to save a little space at the center of the display.
 Move your eyes over to the radio or your logging software and you get
a full readout of the same frequency from the same source the P3 is
collecting it (the radio).  Its not that you're off frequency its just
that you're seeing a rounded copy of it on the P3.  However once you
center the P3 on the radios frequency you know that the P3 and the
radio are in sync with one another and on the same frequency.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 11:11 AM, Lu Romero lrom...@ij.net wrote:
 So now I am getting a much better understanding...

 What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than 50
 cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
 calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is somewhat
 acceptable.

 However, on a Flex, I can click on a signal and be DEAD ON
 the signal I have selected.

 I have never operated a LP-Pan, but can I assume that it
 will function just like the Flex (it is the same software
 front end after all)?

 And Skimmer's waterfall display is also just as accurate.

 This means that if I am a shoot fish in a barrel mult
 operator and are combing the band for signals, I would be
 much more efficient time wise using a Flex/LP-Pan or a
 Skimmer than using a P3 on my K3, even with the Macro Magic
 CWT solution, right?  The upside is that no computer is
 needed (which is a non trivial thing, IMO).

 Will/can the P3/K3 combination approach the accuracy of the
 above systems?

 -lu-w4lt-


 Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 02:58:27 -0400
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: 4c639b93.8030...@subich.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3
 doesn't
 automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The
 Center line
 on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz.

 You're wrong.  The P3 display will never be more than 50 Hz
 from the
 K3 if you calibrate it properly.  Hold center until the
 Center
 Frequency adjust display comes on and then hold Center
 again.
 The P3 center frequency will be calibrated to the K3
 frequency ...
 the display will change +/- 50 Hz (e.g. it will show
 10.000.0 from
 9.999.950 to 10.000.049).

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig,
 put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0.
 Let's say
 that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your
 VFO knob
 up until the P3 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3
 displaying? I'm
 sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.

 No, the P3 display will change to 10.000.1 at 10.000.050 as
 I just
 explained above.  The P3 shows the correctly rounded version
 (not
 truncated) of the K3 frequency.  If you want the P3 center
 frequency
 to align with the K3 simply do the Center Center process
 as
 documented in the manual.

 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center
 has been
 set correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have
 EVERYTHING out
 of wack by that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just
 confuses
 things more.

 If you properly zero the Center as instructed in the
 manual and
 use WWV or an AM broadcast signal with SPAN set to 2 KHz,
 you will
 get REF-CAL set to well less than 0.1 Hz ... probably on the
 order
 of 0.01 Hz.  It's not rocket science ... just follow the
 instructions
 from those who designed the product and stop trying to
 argue.

 73,

    ... Joe, W4TV

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[Elecraft] P3 Reference Calibraton Error

2010-08-12 Thread Lu Romero
Well, that's what I get for reading this list while at work
and trying to multi-task with other stuff...

W4ZV states that the P3 display is NOT controlling the K3,
but it's actually the other way around.

Now this makes more sense.  Let me know if I have understood
this correctly:  The P3 display *follows* the K3 within a
1.4 Hz, but displays the frequency ROUNDED OFF to 50 Hz. 
That is, the GRANULARITY of the P3 display, versus the
granularity of the K3 display is 50 Hz versus the 1 Hz
accuracy displayed by the K3.

So, aftr all of the careful calibration is done and the rig
and the K3 are warmed up and ready, when I QSY to a peak on
the screen, gents, how close to the actual frequency of the
displayed signal on the P3 do I come on the K3?

My Christmas list is written in pencil...  

-lu-w4lt-

Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 07:06:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 Reference Calibraton Error
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 1281621965933-5416204.p...@n2.nabble.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii



Brett Howard wrote:
 
 The center follows the K3 you can tell where it is based
on the fact
 that there is a K3 next to you.  So long as you've got the
two synced
 and don't have a center offset in you know where the
center is.
 

Correct.  I believe his confusion is thinking the P3 display
is controlling
the K3, but it's actually the other way around.

1.  First calibrate the K3 to WWV using the K3 Manual
procedure.  With a
good ear (or other methods) you can do this to 1 Hz.  The
K3 should be
reading 15.000.000 with FINE resolution and you should hear
no beating or
change in pitch when switching between UCW and LCW.

2.  The P3's Center line tracks the K3 so P3 CF is exactly
indicating the
K3's frequency (15.000.000) even though the display is
rounded (i.e.
15.000.0).  So far we have not touched our P3 at all.

3.  Next calibrate the P3's spectrum display per the manual
procedure by
using Ref Cal to shift the spectrum display so that it
centers on the center
line.  Use the minimum SPAN (2.0 kHz) and adjust Ref Cal in
10 Hz steps
until the spectrum display is best aligned on the center
line.  I find this
easiest to do if you set SCALE = 10 and adjust REF LVL so
the signal peak is
mid-scale in the P3 display.  Adjust Ref Cal so the signal
shoulders are
symmetrical about the center, or as close to symmetrical as
possible, given
the 10 Hz adjustment resolution.

Potential sources of error are:

1.  Drift in K3 reference oscillator (49.38 MHz).
2.  Drift in P3 reference oscillator (60 MHz).
3.  Adjustment resolution of the P3's Ref Cal steps. 
Adjustment steps are
10 Hz (at the P3's 60 MHz clock).  At WWV's 15 MHz (1/4 of
60 MHz), each
adjustment step is 1/4 of 10 Hz = 2.5 Hz, which results in a
maximum 1/2
step uncertainty (1.25 Hz) in adjustment resolution when
centering the P3
display.

The P3's adjustment error (e.g. 1.25 Hz at 15 MHz) is
accurate enough to
easily hit 50 Hz bandwidth filters when using the minimum
SPAN (even
assuming some reference oscillator drift).

There may be other minor rounding errors in the DSP but I'll
let the
nit-pickers argue over that.

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Firmware Reload

2010-08-12 Thread Brett Howard
You should also do a reset of the P3 after the reload of the latest
software.  Hold the MENU/LABELS key while turning the P3 power on.
Hold the button till it says configuration reset.  You'll lose your
reference calibration and any of your FN labels but this has been
known to flush out some of the problems that existed and gives you a
clean slate from which to start from with your new firmware.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 9:14 AM, Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:


 Don Cunningham wrote:

 I forgot, in the heat of playing with a new toy, to pass something along
 that may help others.  My P3 came loaded with the latest firmware, so I
 was happily using it, and having some strange issues,  like excessive
 display flickering, signals not centered, readout on P3 not matching K3's
 dial, etc.


 Some MAJOR firmware fixes were implemented.  The first thing anyone should
 do after turning on their new K3 or P3 is to load the latest firmware.
 Don't be afraid of this...it's very important for best performance and
 especially so for a newly introduced product.
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Firmware-Reload-tp5416645p5416797.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  Fair enough, so lets say that you're within 50Hz accuracy then...
  That still wouldn't QSY you to the Zero Beat on CW would it.

50 Hz is only the accuracy of the readout.  Set Span to 2 KHz and
move MKR A ... you will notice it moves with much finer resolution
than 100 Hz steps.  With a span of 50 KHz I can see 10 Hz steps in
the frequency sent to the K3 when tapping the select knob.  With a
100 KHz span, 50 Hz accuracy/resolution on select seems easy.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 8/12/2010 12:28 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 Fair enough, so lets say that you're within 50Hz accuracy then... That still 
 wouldn't QSY you to the Zero Beat on CW would it.

 From: br...@livecomputers.com
 Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 23:15:02 -0700
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: notforc...@hotmail.com
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 My P3 shows a rounded version of what is on the K3 when they are
 synced. When my K3 says 7.100.000 the P3 shows 7.100.0 when I go to
 7.100.050 it goes to 7.100.1 its a rounded version. So when my P3 and
 K3 are synced (by simply pressing center twice) I can read the
 frequency on the K3 and know that is the frequency that the P3 is on.
 I simply set the K3 to 10.000.000 and then do the ref cal on the P3.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

 On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 11:09 PM, The Smithsnotforc...@hotmail.com  wrote:
 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't automatically
 sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line on the P3 CAN be and
 usually is off by as much as 99Hz. No matter how you look at it, if you can
 move a Center position on the P3 with the select knob in the CENTER
 adjustment  mode, and it doesn't change from the reading of 10.000.0 until
 you get up to 10.000.1 or down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that
 SOMETHING is changing between those two positions which just happen to be
 100Hz apart from each other.
 Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down to 9.999.999
 before the display on the P3 center line changes, than obviously the K3 and
 the P3 are not in sync to the Hz.

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig, put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say that it
 does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob up until the P3
 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3 displaying? I'm sure it's not going to be
 10.000.100.  I know mine sure isn't, and that's after I set that center as
 close as possible.  My rig displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off.
 Take your VFO move it down until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3
 display? Mine says 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra
 2 digits in order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal.
 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set
 correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of wack by
 that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just confuses things more.

 I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head in the
 sand and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3 with 000Hz
 accuracy.  When you center that marker and hit the QSY button you are going
 to move the CENTER of that carrier on the display as far or as close to the
 center that you just calibrated it to.
 You're just wrong.. I'm sorry.  I don't know why Alan hasn't just come on
 here and said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since we've been
 discussing this.

 The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys that don't mind
 coming within 100Hz of the QSY freq.  I don't know if you do CW, but I do,
 and when I land 80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz filter on it makes a
 difference.  The P3 was designed with SSB guys in mind, NOT cw guys.  The
 accuracy of the center display, and the tremendous warm up drift all
 indicate it.
 I love my P3, and I'm having fun with it, but if Alan wants to make this
 friendly to the CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys use.
 He's going to have to 1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center,
 then the Ref-cal alignments, and then 2 - add the extra 2 digits to the
 center display freq.
 This is NO different that putting your K3 on 10.000.000 and setting up the
 Zero beat on your Config: Ref Cal.  You just wouldn't do it that way if you
 didn't know that your K3 wasn't parked at exactly 10.000.000.

 You can disagree all you like. I've made my point, shown my facts,  and I'm
 not going to argue any further on the reflector.  Feel free to contact me
 off the reflector if you need me to explain further.  That goes for Alan as
 well, I would love to talk with you and explain what's going on here if my
 explanation doesn't make sense to you.




 From: br...@livecomputers.com
 Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:53:07 -0700
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: notforc...@hotmail.com

 The P3 is centered on the K3 by default. Thus you can read the K3 to
 tell what frequency the P3 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Pete Smith
This was exactly my point - unless you have a letter-perfect 
installation, leaving things connected and relying on a bunch of gas 
tubes is a recipe for disaster. As Guy suggested, disconnection won't 
always prevent damage, but remaining connected with less than 
professionally designed and installed bonding schemes is just inviting it.

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000


On 8/12/2010 12:50 PM, W8JI wrote:
 The real problem is almost always that people pepper the station with
   protection devices but use poor wiring layouts or poor entrance schemes. 
  99%
   of the protection is in  the layout and bonding, not in the protection
   devices we throw into the system.

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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Lu,

I don't think the accuracy is a problem, it is the rounding of the 
frequency that is displayed on the P3 - that is simply resolution of the 
frequency indicated.  At least that is my understanding from a perusal 
of the P3 manual.

The screen is continuous, but a frequency of 7035.265 displayed on the 
K3 will be 7035.3 on the P3  In fact, any frequency between 7035.250 and 
7035.349 will show up on the P3 as 7035.3  If there are several signals 
in that 100 Hertz span, you should be able to point to one of them and 
click - the K3 should show the low order digits, the P3 will not.

73,
Don W3FPR


Lu Romero wrote:
 So now I am getting a much better understanding...

 What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than 50
 cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
 calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is somewhat
 acceptable.

 .
   
 Will/can the P3/K3 combination approach the accuracy of the
 above systems?

 -lu-w4lt-

   

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Re: [Elecraft] Free to a good home...OT

2010-08-12 Thread Larry 'Rebar' Rebarchik - N6CCH
Here is the compatibility listing for the C-S2 battery, FWIW.
http://www.wirelessground.com/blba10mahoro.html

On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 15:22:29 -0300, cx...@4email.net wrote:
 Hola,
 I have a OEM battery for a Blackberry, model C-S2. I think it fits the 
 8300-8500 and 8700 series of BB. I ordered, received it and opened the 
 package before realizing that my 8900 takes diff battery. Unopened meant

 not able to return.
 I will be in the states for two weeks starting 16 Aug. FCFS.
 73
 Tom
 CX7TT
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-- 
73 de N6CCH aka Rebar
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Ideas and questions

2010-08-12 Thread Brett Howard
Make sure you have the latest software installed and do a
configuration reset by holding MENU/LABELS while turning the P3 on.
Continue to hold MENU/LABELS till it says that its reset things.  Then
reconfigure your ref cal and your FN labels and see if it takes care
of things for you.  Thankfully there arent a TON of configurable
things in the P3 (yet) so its not too painful to do a reset... ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 5:29 AM, Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.net wrote:
 I had previously tried it with FN 1 and FN 2 without success.  I just now
 tried it with FN 7 and get the same result.

 Brett N7MG who is one of the field testers has indicated that this is, or
 has been, a known issue - so I am confident that it will be resolved in an
 upcoming firmware revision.  In the meantime, it is no big deal.

 73   Craig  AC0DS


 Try moving that function to another button.. For example, use F7, and
 that's where I have mine now without issue.  See if that works for you.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Pete Smith
Just FYI, Tripp Lite says their DB9R uses avalanche diodes.  From Wikipedia:

A common application is protecting electronic circuits 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_circuit against damaging high 
voltages http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overvoltage. The avalanche diode 
is connected to the circuit so that it is reverse-biased. In other 
words, its cathode http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode is positive 
with respect to its anode http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anode. In this 
configuration, the diode is non-conducting and does not interfere with 
the circuit. If the voltage increases beyond the design limit, the diode 
suffers avalanche breakdown 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalanche_breakdown, causing the harmful 
voltage to be conducted to earth. When used in this fashion they are 
often referred to as clamper diodes 
http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Clamper_diodesaction=editredlink=1
 
or Transient voltage suppression diode 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient_voltage_suppression_diode 
because they clamp the maximum voltage to a predetermined level. 
Avalanche diodes are normally specified for this role by their clamping 
voltage /V/_BR and the maximum size of transient they can absorb, 
specified by either energy (in joules 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joule) or /i/^2 /t/. Avalanche breakdown 
is not destructive, as long as the diode is not allowed to overheat.

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000


On 8/12/2010 8:58 AM, Jim McDonald wrote:
 I moved the internet unit off my tower and made other improvements,
 including adding a Tripp-Lite DB9 surge protector (MOVs, I assume) at the
 K3.  My new computer is connected to the router via RF instead of Ethernet
 even though it's only a few feet away.


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Re: [Elecraft] {k3} PSK31 tuning

2010-08-12 Thread Kok Chen

On Aug 12, 2010, at 8/129:09 AM, Lyle Johnson wrote:

 ... Tuning is critical and an error of more than 5 Hz changes from  
 solid copy to no copy.

With a binary PSK demodulator, you can be off tuned up to an amount of  
plus or minus 90 degrees of perfect phase coherency between bit  
periods (what is sometimes called a modulation chip).

BPSK31 has a bit rate of 31.25 per second. That means the carrier or  
pseudo carrier can be off up to 90 degrees in 1/31.25 of a second,  
i.e., 7.8 Hz is how much a demodulator can be off tuned under good SNR  
conditions.

With QPSK31, everything is halved since the signal constellation is  
doubled but all still lie on the circumference of a single circle.

If a higher order DPSK demodulator is used (for example, an Okunev  
demodulator), then the tuning range will be reduced accordingly.  A  
second order Okunev for BPSK31 requires 5.2 Hz tuning accuracy, a  
third order Okunev requires 3.9 Hz, and so on.

Higher order demodulators can give very significantly fewer decoding  
errors, but you also need to tune more carefully. Higher order  
demodulators (ditto coherent demodulation schemes such as the Costas  
Loop) also perform poorly when there is HF multipath.

Under non-ideal propagation, the simplest non-coherent differential  
PSK demodulator often works best for copying BPSK31.  It is also the  
most forgiving when it comes to tuning accuracy.

73
Chen, W7AY


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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  Yes, this is enough to hit the spot button, but having the extra two
  digits would be very helpful.

You don't need the extra digits for REF CAL.  Simply zero beat your
reference signal on the K3, Hold CENTER twice to align the P3 Center
frequency with the K3, then turn on REF CAL and adjust the signal so
it is centered in the display.

P3 REF CAL doesn't care about the frequency of the signal you are
using for alignment.  The only thing REF CAL does is to move the
spectrum/Waterfall display so it aligns with the frequency reported
by the K3.  You can even use one of those strange beacons on a
odd frequency as long as you properly tune the station and do
CENTER CENTER before adjusting REF CAL.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 8/12/2010 12:31 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 I agree with you for once Joe... 50Hz sounds right.  If you Ref cal from that 
 point than you'll most likely be 4 to 5Hz off.  I've not once been able to 
 get it to 1Hz resolution.  Yes, this is enough to hit the spot button, but 
 having the extra two digits would be very helpful.

 Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 02:58:27 -0400
 From: li...@subich.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY


 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't
 automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy. The Center line
 on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz.

 You're wrong. The P3 display will never be more than 50 Hz from the
 K3 if you calibrate it properly. Hold center until the Center
 Frequency adjust display comes on and then hold Center again.
 The P3 center frequency will be calibrated to the K3 frequency ...
 the display will change +/- 50 Hz (e.g. it will show 10.000.0 from
 9.999.950 to 10.000.049).

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test. Take your rig, put it on
 10.000.000 Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say
 that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob
 up until the P3 reads 10.000.1. Where is your K3 displaying? I'm
 sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.

 No, the P3 display will change to 10.000.1 at 10.000.050 as I just
 explained above. The P3 shows the correctly rounded version (not
 truncated) of the K3 frequency. If you want the P3 center frequency
 to align with the K3 simply do the Center Center process as
 documented in the manual.

 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been
 set correctly. If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out
 of wack by that much difference. Moving that Ref cal just confuses
 things more.

 If you properly zero the Center as instructed in the manual and
 use WWV or an AM broadcast signal with SPAN set to 2 KHz, you will
 get REF-CAL set to well less than 0.1 Hz ... probably on the order
 of 0.01 Hz. It's not rocket science ... just follow the instructions
 from those who designed the product and stop trying to argue.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 8/12/2010 2:09 AM, The Smiths wrote:

 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't
 automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy. The Center line
 on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz. No matter
 how you look at it, if you can move a Center position on the P3 with
 the select knob in the CENTER adjustment mode, and it doesn't
 change from the reading of 10.000.0 until you get up to 10.000.1 or
 down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that SOMETHING is changing
 between those two positions which just happen to be 100Hz apart from
 each other. Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down
 to 9.999.999 before the display on the P3 center line changes, than
 obviously the K3 and the P3 are not in sync to the Hz.

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test. Take your rig, put it on
 10.000.000 Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say
 that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob
 up until the P3 reads 10.000.1. Where is your K3 displaying? I'm
 sure it's not going to be 10.000.100. I know mine sure isn't, and
 that's after I set that center as close as possible. My rig
 displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off. Take your VFO move it down
 until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3 display? Mine says
 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra 2 digits in
 order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal. You
 just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set
 correctly. If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of
 wack by that much difference. Moving that Ref cal just confuses
 things more.

 I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head
 in the sand and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3
 with 000Hz accuracy. When you center that marker and hit the QSY
 button you are going to move the CENTER of that carrier on the
 display as far or as close to the center that you just calibrated it
 to. You're just wrong.. I'm sorry. I don't know why Alan hasn't just
 come on 

Re: [Elecraft] {k3} PSK31 tuning

2010-08-12 Thread Dennis KB7ST

Ron,

I share the same challenges with PSK and RTTY decoding.  My baseline is to
operate my K3 while RV camping and to explore as much as I can without using
a computer.  I don't have full answers and folks like Lyle have been most
helpful.  I was last on HF 25 years ago so my K3, SN 4335, is pretty new.  I
think my challenge has been to  better identify some aids to help in the
tuning.  See http://www.netdave.com/wa0ttn/Tuning.asp but note he
demonstrates some concepts using a PC and I still want to tackle while
camping.  As a work in progress, here are some things I've noticed and some
questions for the group.

WA0TTN article above mentions to keep the PSK31 signal in the center of the
most sensitive audio region of your receiver.  I have 8-pole 2.8 and 8-pole
400 Hz filters but still uncertain where the most sensitive audio region of
the K3 is.

The tactics I'm using right now is that I set one VFO on data mode and the
other VFO mode on CW, using 440 Hz (the A above C on the musical scale--the
'perfect pitch' A.  It isn't clear to me yet, despite some poking around on
the net what two frequencies are used for PSK signaling.  I'm assuming that
if I knew the 2 freqs then I could pick a center freq and use some PITCH
setting in CW mode to get me close?  For example, one of the PSK macros
submitted by Matt, W6NIA, in the K3 Utility Command Tester Help file shifts
the IF center freq to 1100 Hz and changes filter bandwidth to 1800 Hz.  But
there isn't explanation of why those numbers were chosen and I haven't tried
IF shifting before.  In other words, when I can't get a quick decode using
the recommended techniques, what can I do in CW mode to 'get me in the
ballpark.

I do notice that I can decode much weaker PSK signals than RTTY signals --
and that is still a challenge for me (have some disabilities).

Within the last day or two, it occurred to me that I should tune into the
W1AW data transmissions 14.095 at 3PM and 6PM Pacific time.  Then I assume
that once I get a solid decode, I could switch into CW or some other mode to
compare what the audio should sound like.  It would be neat to pick a
certain CW pitch freq then SPOT it in CW mode to get me closer.  SPOT in PSK
mode sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, but without a computer I can't
analyze why it works or why it doesn't work.  I haven't run into too much
QRM as an issue and SPOT PSK mode certainly works pretty good on strong
signals.  SPOT CW mode on actual CW signals pretty much is nearly 100% in
matching whatever PITCH tone I select.  But, as the more experienced folks
say, the SPOT PSK technique doesn't get a PSK decode with the same
reliability as SPOT CW when actually doing CW QSOs.

I'll be following this thread most carefully.

Dennis KB7ST Snohomish WA
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/k3-PSK31-tuning-tp5416698p5417461.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Jim Brown
On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:32:59 -0400, Tom W8JI wrote:

I'm going to disagree with the popular but misplaced notion that when 
lightning hits nothing can be done to prevent damage other than a complete 
disconnect.

The real problem is almost always that people pepper the station with 
protection devices but use poor wiring layouts or poor entrance schemes. 99% 
of the protection is in  the layout and bonding, not in the protection 
devices we throw into the system.

I strongly agree. Proper bonding is probably more important than protection 
devices (although I wouldn't do without either). And IMPROPER bonding, or 
missing bonding, is a common CAUSE of lightning damage. This is especially 
true when shunt mode protection is in use (MOVs, for example).

73, Jim Brown K9YC




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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Firmware Reload

2010-08-12 Thread Craig D. Smith
I just did the reset and it fixed the problem with the waterfall
function disappearing from the FN keys.  I had never done a reset
previously.  Thanks Brett!

73   Craig  AC0DS

 You should also do a reset of the P3 after the reload of the latest
 software.



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Re: [Elecraft] {k3} PSK31 tuning

2010-08-12 Thread Greg - AB7R
One thing that is important to remember is to make sure the threshold setting 
is 
set so that the signal indicator on the CWT meter is set to beat with the 
signal.  
If you have it set for copying moderately strong signals and you try to copy a 
weak 
one you may need to adjust the threshold a bit.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Thu Aug 12 12:04 , Dennis KB7ST  sent:


Ron,

I share the same challenges with PSK and RTTY decoding.  My baseline is to
operate my K3 while RV camping and to explore as much as I can without using
a computer.  I don't have full answers and folks like Lyle have been most
helpful.  I was last on HF 25 years ago so my K3, SN 4335, is pretty new.  I
think my challenge has been to  better identify some aids to help in the
tuning.  See http://www.netdave.com/wa0ttn/Tuning.asp but note he
demonstrates some concepts using a PC and I still want to tackle while
camping.  As a work in progress, here are some things I've noticed and some
questions for the group.

WA0TTN article above mentions to keep the PSK31 signal in the center of the
most sensitive audio region of your receiver.  I have 8-pole 2.8 and 8-pole
400 Hz filters but still uncertain where the most sensitive audio region of
the K3 is.

The tactics I'm using right now is that I set one VFO on data mode and the
other VFO mode on CW, using 440 Hz (the A above C on the musical scale--the
'perfect pitch' A.  It isn't clear to me yet, despite some poking around on
the net what two frequencies are used for PSK signaling.  I'm assuming that
if I knew the 2 freqs then I could pick a center freq and use some PITCH
setting in CW mode to get me close?  For example, one of the PSK macros
submitted by Matt, W6NIA, in the K3 Utility Command Tester Help file shifts
the IF center freq to 1100 Hz and changes filter bandwidth to 1800 Hz.  But
there isn't explanation of why those numbers were chosen and I haven't tried
IF shifting before.  In other words, when I can't get a quick decode using
the recommended techniques, what can I do in CW mode to 'get me in the
ballpark.

I do notice that I can decode much weaker PSK signals than RTTY signals --
and that is still a challenge for me (have some disabilities).

Within the last day or two, it occurred to me that I should tune into the
W1AW data transmissions 14.095 at 3PM and 6PM Pacific time.  Then I assume
that once I get a solid decode, I could switch into CW or some other mode to
compare what the audio should sound like.  It would be neat to pick a
certain CW pitch freq then SPOT it in CW mode to get me closer.  SPOT in PSK
mode sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, but without a computer I can't
analyze why it works or why it doesn't work.  I haven't run into too much
QRM as an issue and SPOT PSK mode certainly works pretty good on strong
signals.  SPOT CW mode on actual CW signals pretty much is nearly 100% in
matching whatever PITCH tone I select.  But, as the more experienced folks
say, the SPOT PSK technique doesn't get a PSK decode with the same
reliability as SPOT CW when actually doing CW QSOs.

I'll be following this thread most carefully.

Dennis KB7ST Snohomish WA
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/k3-PSK31-tuning-
tp5416698p5417461.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than 50
  cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
  calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is somewhat
  acceptable.

You take what I said out of context.  That statement was in
reference to the FREQUENCY DISPLAY.  The FREQUENCY DISPLAY is
never move than 50 cycles from the K3 FREQUENCY DISPLAY.  That
divergence is ONLY because the K3 FREQUENCY display ROUNDS to
the nearest 100 Hz (0.1 KHz).

  However, on a Flex, I can click on a signal and be DEAD ON
  the signal I have selected.

If you have sufficient span (visual resolution) selecting a
signal on the P3 will put you dead on in the K3.  However,
it is just like clicking on the spectrum or waterfall in
any digital program, the mouse has a one pixel resolution -
if you are trying to use a spectrum/waterfall span of 100 KHz
in a window that is 360 pixels wide (1/4 of an SXGA screen),
the BEST you can do is +/- 138 Hz (100 KHz/360).

If you are using PowerSDR (the real FlexRadio) in full screen
mode on a 1600 pixel wide screen, each pixel will represent
about 70 Hz (100KHz/~1400 - the spectrum/waterfall is not full
width) and you can get within +/-35 Hz.

The same factors apply to the P3 ... your maximum accuracy is
SPAN/DISPLAY RESOLUTION.  In the case of a 100 KHz span,
100KHz/480 +/- 100Hz ... that's one pixel and represents the
resolution limit of the display.  However, I don't see it as
a real issue since a 100 KHz wide view only makes sense on a
relatively quiet band and you're not going to be using a 50 Hz
wide filter under those circumstances.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 8/12/2010 2:11 PM, Lu Romero wrote:
 So now I am getting a much better understanding...

 What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than 50
 cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
 calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is somewhat
 acceptable.

 However, on a Flex, I can click on a signal and be DEAD ON
 the signal I have selected.

 I have never operated a LP-Pan, but can I assume that it
 will function just like the Flex (it is the same software
 front end after all)?

 And Skimmer's waterfall display is also just as accurate.

 This means that if I am a shoot fish in a barrel mult
 operator and are combing the band for signals, I would be
 much more efficient time wise using a Flex/LP-Pan or a
 Skimmer than using a P3 on my K3, even with the Macro Magic
 CWT solution, right?  The upside is that no computer is
 needed (which is a non trivial thing, IMO).

 Will/can the P3/K3 combination approach the accuracy of the
 above systems?

 -lu-w4lt-



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Re: [Elecraft] P3: Connection to the K2

2010-08-12 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Given the similarities between the K2 and K3 command sets, one should
not need more than the Clifton Research Z-10 buffer to bring out
the K2 IF and select the proper IF frequency in the P3.  The radio
data rate would need to be changed to 4800 bps (only rate supported
by the KIO2) and the VFO cursors (bandwidth) might not act correctly
due to differences in the FW/IS commands ... the only showstopper
would be the data rate issue.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On Thu, 2010-08-12 at 09:18 +0200, Heinz Bärtschi wrote:
 It would be fine if the P3 could provide a configurable
 K2 emulation mode to communicate with the K2 and to support an
 appropriate (sub-)set of the exciting P3 functions in conjunction
 with the K2.
 Any pros and cons?

 73, Heinz  HB9BCB



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Re: [Elecraft] {k3} PSK31 tuning

2010-08-12 Thread Lyle Johnson
  The K3's PSK encoder and decoder (used in DATA: PSK D mode) uses  a 
pitch just above 1,000 Hz.

If you narrow the badnwidth and use the CWT feature, you'll get the PSK 
signal.  YOU can use the SPOT function in conjunction with the CWT 
indicator in this mode as described in the K3 manual.

For RTTY, you have choices for the MARK tone using the PITCH button 
while selecting DAT AFSK or DATA FSK modes.  You must manually tune the 
RTTY signal using the tuning indicator as described in the K3 manual.  
The MARK pitch you choose need not be the same the MARK pitch used by 
the sending station.

73,

Lyle KK7P

 I share the same challenges with PSK and RTTY decoding

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  I strongly agree. Proper bonding is probably more important than
  protection devices (although I wouldn't do without either). And
  IMPROPER bonding, or missing bonding, is a common CAUSE of lightning
  damage.

Not to be piling on ... but improper bonding will GUARANTEE lightning
damage.  Any system that lacks proper bonding will assure that the
transceiver and computer are connected to two grounds that WILL have
a significant voltage difference in the event of a nearby lightning
strike or significant power surge.

As soon as the ground potentials diverge by more than 5 Volts you have
the possibility that logic devices will be damaged due to reverse
voltage when the chassis (ground potential) in one device goes
above the power supply voltage in the other device.  This can happen
if the RF ground (coax shield) goes positive with respect to the
safety ground (grounding pin on the power cable) or if the safety
ground goes high with respect to the RF ground.

  This is especially true when shunt mode protection is in use (MOVs,
  for example).

MOVs on power distribution circuits can very easily cause the safety
ground to reach several hundred volts in improperly wired (open ground
or reversed ground and neutral) installations.  Unless you are 100%
sure that your home/shack is properly wired and bonded, the *ONLY*
place you should have shunt mode protection is at the service entrance
(meter) or primary circuit breaker panel (what is known as whole
house protection).

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/12/2010 3:09 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:32:59 -0400, Tom W8JI wrote:

 I'm going to disagree with the popular but misplaced notion that when
 lightning hits nothing can be done to prevent damage other than a complete
 disconnect.

 The real problem is almost always that people pepper the station with
 protection devices but use poor wiring layouts or poor entrance schemes. 99%
 of the protection is in  the layout and bonding, not in the protection
 devices we throw into the system.

 I strongly agree. Proper bonding is probably more important than protection
 devices (although I wouldn't do without either). And IMPROPER bonding, or
 missing bonding, is a common CAUSE of lightning damage. This is especially
 true when shunt mode protection is in use (MOVs, for example).

 73, Jim Brown K9YC




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead

2010-08-12 Thread Paul Christensen
If one absolutely insists on branch circuit protection at the AC receptacle, 
MOV shunt mode from line-to-neutral, rather than line-to-ground, is 
generally acceptable.  These are referred to as single-mode surge 
protection devices (SPD).  By contrast, most receptacle and power strip SPDs 
utilize the so-called 3-mode MOV shunting and can produce the disastrous 
results that Joe and K9YC have described.

Paul, W9AC

 Unless you are 100%
 sure that your home/shack is properly wired and bonded, the *ONLY*
 place you should have shunt mode protection is at the service entrance
 (meter) or primary circuit breaker panel (what is known as whole
 house protection). 

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[Elecraft] [P3] K3IOBUFFKT comes with P3

2010-08-12 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Just a note to those ordering a P3 and have not done the above mod - you don't 
need to order the mod separatey, it comes with the P3.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
The nice thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose
from. -Andrew Tannenbaum, computer science professor (1944- )

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] K3IOBUFFKT comes with P3

2010-08-12 Thread Don Cunningham
I also got one of the referenced kits with my P3 and my radio was late 
enough not to need it.  I would send it to anyone with an older rig that 
needs it for another purpose (not ordering the P3, that is).
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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[Elecraft] {k3} PSK31 tuning

2010-08-12 Thread Ron Herman
Thanks to all that replied. I guess the problem is not with me... I 
expected PSK31 operation to be less critical after playing with 
Digipan. I also had hoped to use the computer interface to 
incorporate PSK/RTTY operation into my home brew logger/station 
control. But between tuning difficulties and quirky interface 
behavior I guess it will have to wait... Maybe the P3 will do 
something to help this in the future.

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[Elecraft] [P3] - missing Nuts

2010-08-12 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
No, it's not a joke! I've just inventoried my P3 kit and the 2 9/16' BNC Nuts 
are missing from the Chassis Hardware - E850409  packet. I've checked the 
entire kit and the aren’t there, including ensuring they aren’t on the 2 BNC 
sockets. The 4 lock washers are in the packet.

Have mailed Sales, but just wondering if anyone else with a delivery today is 
missing them too?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
All the world's a stage and most of us are desperately unrehearsed.
-Sean O'Casey, playwright (1880-1964)

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] - missing Nuts

2010-08-12 Thread Ed Muns
These nuts were also missing from SN107 kit.

Ed - W0YK
--Original Message--
From: David Ferrington, M0XDF
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [P3] - missing Nuts
Sent: Aug 12, 2010 14:19

No, it's not a joke! I've just inventoried my P3 kit and the 2 9/16' BNC Nuts 
are missing from the Chassis Hardware - E850409  packet. I've checked the 
entire kit and the aren’t there, including ensuring they aren’t on the 2 BNC 
sockets. The 4 lock washers are in the packet.

Have mailed Sales, but just wondering if anyone else with a delivery today is 
missing them too?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
All the world's a stage and most of us are desperately unrehearsed.
-Sean O'Casey, playwright (1880-1964)

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Sent from my BlackBerry
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] - missing Nuts

2010-08-12 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Just had a mail from Lisa, they are shipping Int'l priority.

Can't fault Elecraft of customer service.

Interesting it's the number before mine Ed.

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
There is no pillow so soft as a clear conscience. -French proverb

On 12 Aug 2010, at 22:40, Ed Muns wrote:

 These nuts were also missing from SN107 kit.
 
 Ed - W0YK
 --Original Message--
 From: David Ferrington, M0XDF
 Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] [P3] - missing Nuts
 Sent: Aug 12, 2010 14:19
 
 No, it's not a joke! I've just inventoried my P3 kit and the 2 9/16' BNC Nuts 
 are missing from the Chassis Hardware - E850409  packet. I've checked the 
 entire kit and the aren’t there, including ensuring they aren’t on the 2 BNC 
 sockets. The 4 lock washers are in the packet.
 
 Have mailed Sales, but just wondering if anyone else with a delivery today is 
 missing them too?

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[Elecraft] P3 - Missing Nuts

2010-08-12 Thread Geoffrey Downs
This morning I picked up P3 Kit No.77 (ordered April 15) from the 
Parcelforce Leeds Depot. I assembled it this afternoon and it works well :-)

Luckily I have all my nuts ;-) but the following minor points arose, mainly 
about the latest manual and errata:-

1. As far as I can tell, having searched the (good) packaging several times, 
my kit did not include the Hole Cover - Part No E100396 referred to in 
Errata A3-1. I have emailed parts.

2. Errata A-3 asks for the part number of the ribbon cable to be changed on 
page 25 of the manual, but it's already the same as the part number in the 
Errata.

3. Item 5 in Errata A3-1 asks for a change to be made on page 38 of the 
manual but the change is actually required on page 37, not 38. (The change 
refers to page 38)

4. Page 36. The paragraph at the top of the page asks for one end of the TMP 
cable to be plugged into J102 on the RF Board. On my RF Board the TMP socket 
is labelled J902.

73 to all

Geoff
G3UCK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse

2010-08-12 Thread David Cutter
You are much better off using the current limiting feature of your dc 
supply.  A fuse is not fast enough to protect any electronic circuitry. 
Strictly speaking a fuse in line is rated to protect the cable in the event 
of a short circuit in the rig which would be a very big fuse, far bigger 
than your psu is rated to supply most likely.  Fuses and their holders are 
too slow and drop valuable volts along with the cable drop and connectors, 
which all add up to a poorer distortion figure on transmit.

David
G3UNA

 Hi, I am ready to apply 12v for the first time to my new K3. Should I have 
 a
 inline fuse on the DC to the K3? and if so what amp.
 Just don't look right not to have a fuse inline.

 Thanks
 Chris W7CTH

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse

2010-08-12 Thread ab2tc

I completely agree with you. The inline fuses are there for mobile
installations where you have a direct connection to the car battery. On my
ICOM radios I have always shortened the power cable removing the inline fuse
in the process.

AB2TC - Knut


David Cutter wrote:
 
 You are much better off using the current limiting feature of your dc 
 supply.  A fuse is not fast enough to protect any electronic circuitry. 
 Strictly speaking a fuse in line is rated to protect the cable in the
 event 
 of a short circuit in the rig which would be a very big fuse, far bigger 
 than your psu is rated to supply most likely.  Fuses and their holders are 
 too slow and drop valuable volts along with the cable drop and connectors, 
 which all add up to a poorer distortion figure on transmit.
 
 David
 G3UNA
 snip
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-inline-fuse-tp5414371p5418061.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse

2010-08-12 Thread Mel Farrer
Follow the instructions and check the + terminal to - with an ohm meter for any 
shorts.  The problem you face is the transistor is the worlds fastest fuse and 
on initial turn on you are looking at a low current surge as the unit charges 
the supply and decoupling caps.  A full current rated fuse will not protect the 
PCB if you did something wrong, nor will current limit if set for the max 
current the K3 will draw on transmit.  

If you test the resistance first, the chances are you will be safe on initial 
power up.  Like one suggested using a current limiting PS set say at 3 amps, 
that will protect you adequately.  When the K3 comes alive, you can increase 
the current limit to operating conditions.  I hope this helps.

Mel

--- On Thu, 8/12/10, ab2tc ab...@arrl.net wrote:

From: ab2tc ab...@arrl.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Thursday, August 12, 2010, 3:13 PM


I completely agree with you. The inline fuses are there for mobile
installations where you have a direct connection to the car battery. On my
ICOM radios I have always shortened the power cable removing the inline fuse
in the process.

AB2TC - Knut


David Cutter wrote:
 
 You are much better off using the current limiting feature of your dc 
 supply.  A fuse is not fast enough to protect any electronic circuitry. 
 Strictly speaking a fuse in line is rated to protect the cable in the
 event 
 of a short circuit in the rig which would be a very big fuse, far bigger 
 than your psu is rated to supply most likely.  Fuses and their holders are 
 too slow and drop valuable volts along with the cable drop and connectors, 
 which all add up to a poorer distortion figure on transmit.
 
 David
 G3UNA
 snip
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-inline-fuse-tp5414371p5418061.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 in line fuse

2010-08-12 Thread george fritkin
The fuse is used to prevent secondary failure.  Fast response fuses are timed 
in msecs.  Besides when was the last time anybody put a high current amp meter 
across the output of their power supply to test the current limiting point?
George, W6GF


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse

2010-08-12 Thread Matt Zilmer
The best method is Wayne's suggestion from way back:

In both Neg and Pos leads, supply a fuseholder and fuse.  I use the
stubby fuses from Motorola @ 30A, you should use something like
that.  These are T-rated, meaning they're designed to open with a DC
load.  Don't use a fuse out of your home's fusebox...

General setup:
12V AGM Battery @ 110 AH, cabled to a set of panel-mounted MOT inline
fuse holders.  Each lead is covered by a 30A fuse.  The battery is
charged by solar power, two Siemens SR50 (50W) panels on the roof of
the shack.

Note: This recommendation is a little more permanent than what you're
probably looking for right now.  

If you're interested in this approach, I can probably get you the part
numbers you need.  MOT has a service center in IL, and you can phone
in your order.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 16:32:12 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

Hi, I am ready to apply 12v for the first time to my new K3. Should I have a 
inline fuse on the DC to the K3? and if so what amp.
Just don't look right not to have a fuse inline.

Thanks
Chris W7CTH



  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 internal keyer problem

2010-08-12 Thread Bill Coleman

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3][w2] Firmware Reload

2010-08-12 Thread Bill K9YEQ
I had an issue with W2. Could not figure out what was going on.  It was
WORKING! Cables ok, everything tested ok. Had current firmware... reloaded
it again.  Fixed!  WHEW! 

When in doubt, reload, reboot.  

Bill

-Original Message-

I forgot, in the heat of playing with a new toy, to pass something along
that may help others.  My P3 came loaded with the latest firmware, so I was
happily using it, and having some strange issues,  like excessive display
flickering, signals not centered, readout on P3 not matching K3's dial, etc.
I was in the midst of reading the calibration section of the manual, loading
P3 utility and several other things at once and I just happened to reload
the P3 firmware really just to see if all was okay in my cabling.  Presto,
all those issues suddenly went away!!!  We too often take firmware for
granted, I think, and I suspect I may have had some corruption in the
download from the factory.  If the reload didn't fix mine, I guess I just
had a miraculous healing of my P3, hi.
73 all,
Don, WB5HAK
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 internal keyer problem

2010-08-12 Thread ve7ymm

I will do more testing.  The auto detect is off, and I have good
baluns/chokes on both of my antennas. It may be that I'm too close to my new
elevated 40 vertical antenna.  
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-internal-keyer-problem-tp5385342p5418371.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

2010-08-12 Thread Lu Romero
No worries.  I figured this stuff out in a later post.  The
K3 is the boss, the P3 is the slave.  Sorry about the
bandwidth.  I aint thinking correctly at work.  Trying to do
too much at once.

-lu-

- Original Message Follows -
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net, Lu Romero w...@ij.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 15:23:09 -0400

  What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than
50
  cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
  calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is
somewhat
  acceptable.

You take what I said out of context.  That statement was in
reference to the FREQUENCY DISPLAY.  The FREQUENCY DISPLAY
is never move than 50 cycles from the K3 FREQUENCY DISPLAY.
 That divergence is ONLY because the K3 FREQUENCY display
ROUNDS to the nearest 100 Hz (0.1 KHz).

  However, on a Flex, I can click on a signal and be DEAD
ON
  the signal I have selected.

If you have sufficient span (visual resolution) selecting a
signal on the P3 will put you dead on in the K3.  However,
it is just like clicking on the spectrum or waterfall in
any digital program, the mouse has a one pixel resolution -
if you are trying to use a spectrum/waterfall span of 100
KHz in a window that is 360 pixels wide (1/4 of an SXGA
screen), the BEST you can do is +/- 138 Hz (100 KHz/360).

If you are using PowerSDR (the real FlexRadio) in full
screen mode on a 1600 pixel wide screen, each pixel will
represent about 70 Hz (100KHz/~1400 - the
spectrum/waterfall is not full width) and you can get
within +/-35 Hz.

The same factors apply to the P3 ... your maximum accuracy
is SPAN/DISPLAY RESOLUTION.  In the case of a 100 KHz span,
100KHz/480 +/- 100Hz ... that's one pixel and represents
the resolution limit of the display.  However, I don't see
it as a real issue since a 100 KHz wide view only makes
sense on a relatively quiet band and you're not going to be
using a 50 Hz wide filter under those circumstances.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 8/12/2010 2:11 PM, Lu Romero wrote:
 So now I am getting a much better understanding...

 What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than
 50 cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
 calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is somewhat
 acceptable.

 However, on a Flex, I can click on a signal and be DEAD
 ON the signal I have selected.

 I have never operated a LP-Pan, but can I assume that it
 will function just like the Flex (it is the same software
 front end after all)?

 And Skimmer's waterfall display is also just as accurate.

 This means that if I am a shoot fish in a barrel mult
 operator and are combing the band for signals, I would be
 much more efficient time wise using a Flex/LP-Pan or a
 Skimmer than using a P3 on my K3, even with the Macro
 Magic CWT solution, right?  The upside is that no
 computer is needed (which is a non trivial thing, IMO).

 Will/can the P3/K3 combination approach the accuracy of
 the above systems?

 -lu-w4lt-


 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse

2010-08-12 Thread Tom W8JI
Positive lead fuses are a good idea.

Negative lead fuses never were a good idea unless the radio has a totally 
floating negative buss.

If the negative lead fuse to the radio opens for any reason all the negative 
lead current for the radio will flow through the negative lead of any 
accessories connected to the power supply.

They are a terrible idea for any system with the negative lead common to 
ports in and out of the radio, or to the chassis. You certainly won't catch 
me using one!The negative lead needs to be connected solidly to the power 
supply negative for a multitude of reasons, the most prominent of which is 
if the negative lead fuse to the radio opens you can blow up accessories or 
open ground traces including traces in the radio.

They are not even recommended in vehicles any longer in some countries 
because of the fire and damage hazard they create.

73 Tom

 In both Neg and Pos leads, supply a fuseholder and fuse.  I use the
 stubby fuses from Motorola @ 30A, you should use something like
 that.  These are T-rated, meaning they're designed to open with a DC
 load.  Don't use a fuse out of your home's fusebox...

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[Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Phil Hystad
Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added to the 
parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to the P3 manual?

I looked everywhere and this is my second inventory of parts.  It is not 
critical and will not hold up my assembly but I was curious if anyone else has 
it.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Lyle Johnson
  It was just received at the factory and added to the product.  I 
suspect everyone will get one as amatter of course.  If there isn't an 
announcemnt or a contact in the next few days, you might send an email 
requesting one.

Mine doesn't have one, either :-)

73,

Lyle kK7P
 Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added to the 
 parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to the P3 manual?...
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Most of us don't yet have the hole cover. 

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 6:09 PM
To: elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added to the
parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to the P3 manual?

I looked everywhere and this is my second inventory of parts.  It is not
critical and will not hold up my assembly but I was curious if anyone else
has it.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added
  to the parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to
  the P3 manual?

No.  It appears to have been added somewhere around s/n 60 along with
the IF buffer mod.  Neither was present in s/n 37.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/12/2010 9:08 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
 Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added
 to the parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to
 the P3 manual?

 I looked everywhere and this is my second inventory of parts.  It is
 not critical and will not hold up my assembly but I was curious if
 anyone else has it.

 73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse

2010-08-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

You are absolutely correct.  Take a mobile situation - the radio's power 
ground is connected to the transceiver chassis ground, as is the coax 
shield, microphone shield and other stuff.  All that stuff can (and 
will) connect to the vehicle chassis at some point.  I know the coax 
will connect at the point where it attaches to the antenna.

Now imagine a situation where the negative lead fuse is open.  The 
vehicle chassis is still connected to the battery negative - so the 
radio gets it positive lead directly from the battery (since that fuse 
is still good), but the negative battery terminal voltage flows through 
the vehicle chassis to the point where the coax shield connects to the 
vehicle chassis (presumably at the antenna), and then follows the coax 
shield to the transceiver.  The transceiver still works, so you (the 
operator) are not aware that the negative fuse has opened, but the DC 
current paths will give rise to strange happenings.

Bottom line, follow Tom's advice and fuse only the positive lead, and in 
a mobile situation, take the negative voltage from the vehicle chassis 
close to the radio.

The fusing of the negative lead started when some were concerned about 
the vehicle's battery to engine block (or vehicle chassis) connection is 
broken, which could lead to massive starting motor currents being 
conducted from the coax ground at the mobile antenna, through the radio, 
and onto the battery negative terminal.  Yes, that situation is quite 
real, but can be circumvented by periodically checking the engine block 
to chassis grounding in the vehicle, as well as the battery negative 
connection to the vehicle chassis.

If the radio has an isolated (floating) negative connection (I believe 
only commercial mobile radios do that), then fusing of the negative lead 
is OK, but for most ham radios, the fusing of the negative lead can 
cause as much damage as the reasons given for inserting a fuse into the 
negative lead.  Take your pick.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom W8JI wrote:
 Positive lead fuses are a good idea.

 Negative lead fuses never were a good idea unless the radio has a totally 
 floating negative buss.

 If the negative lead fuse to the radio opens for any reason all the negative 
 lead current for the radio will flow through the negative lead of any 
 accessories connected to the power supply.

 They are a terrible idea for any system with the negative lead common to 
 ports in and out of the radio, or to the chassis. You certainly won't catch 
 me using one!The negative lead needs to be connected solidly to the power 
 supply negative for a multitude of reasons, the most prominent of which is 
 if the negative lead fuse to the radio opens you can blow up accessories or 
 open ground traces including traces in the radio.

 They are not even recommended in vehicles any longer in some countries 
 because of the fire and damage hazard they create.

 73 Tom

   
 In both Neg and Pos leads, supply a fuseholder and fuse.  I use the
 stubby fuses from Motorola @ 30A, you should use something like
 that.  These are T-rated, meaning they're designed to open with a DC
 load.  Don't use a fuse out of your home's fusebox...
 

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[Elecraft] [K3] problem mating FP DSP

2010-08-12 Thread Randy Moore
I'm assembling K3 #4564, my third K3 build, and I can't get the front panel to 
mate with the DSP board. The problem seems to be at J32 and the pins won't 
fully penetrate the female connector. The standoffs near there miss toiching 
the underside of the DSP by about 1/16  I've accidentally verified this by 
allowing the J32 pins to slip down beside the connector and everything fit 
fine. The connector at the other end of the board mates fine. It's as though 
something is wrong inside the female part of J32. 

The J32 connector is still mating most of the way, so I'm thinking about 
clipping off about 1/16 of the pins. Any other suggestions?

73,
Randy, KS4L
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Bill [NS4C]
s/n 81 no hole cover strip but did include K3 I/O output buffer mod kit.

73  Bill  NS4C

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 9:18 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover


  Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added
  to the parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to
  the P3 manual?

No.  It appears to have been added somewhere around s/n 60 along with
the IF buffer mod.  Neither was present in s/n 37.

73,

... Joe, W4TV



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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Phil Hystad
What is the IF Buffer Mod -- did I miss something?  I am Serial number 0030.


On Aug 12, 2010, at 6:18 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

 
 Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added
 to the parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to
 the P3 manual?
 
 No.  It appears to have been added somewhere around s/n 60 along with
 the IF buffer mod.  Neither was present in s/n 37.
 
 73,
 
... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 8/12/2010 9:08 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
 Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added
 to the parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to
 the P3 manual?
 
 I looked everywhere and this is my second inventory of parts.  It is
 not critical and will not hold up my assembly but I was curious if
 anyone else has it.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil,

The documentation is available from the Elecraft website.  It is only a 
resistor value change.
Yes, K3 SN 0030 will need it.

73,
Don W3FPR

Phil Hystad wrote:
 What is the IF Buffer Mod -- did I miss something?  I am Serial number 0030.

   

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It's described in your P3 manual at the top of page 5. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 7:22 PM
To: Joe Subich, W4TV
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

What is the IF Buffer Mod -- did I miss something?  I am Serial number 0030.


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[Elecraft] [K2] Tape over cabinet holes/

2010-08-12 Thread Brian Denley
While enjoying completing my K2 #6963, I see where the manual several times 
refers to 'masking material' covering holes in the various cabinel panels. 
There isn't any tape on any of my panels.  They didn't come with any.  Am I 
missing something or are these just outdated references?
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Tape over cabinet holes/

2010-08-12 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
There's always a chance the vendor fails to remove all the masking material
that keeps the paint off of the panel in those places, so we include
instructions to check and make sure the metal surfaces are clean and
unpainted.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
While enjoying completing my K2 #6963, I see where the manual several times 
refers to 'masking material' covering holes in the various cabinel panels. 
There isn't any tape on any of my panels.  They didn't come with any.  Am I 
missing something or are these just outdated references?
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html 


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[Elecraft] PSK tuning [k3]...alternatives for the immediate

2010-08-12 Thread Lu Romero
The K3 manual states that the PSK31 and RTTY functionality
is adequate for CASUAL use without a computer or something
like that.

If youre somewhat SERIOUS, you would be much better off to
use external decoders to do any REAL work on those modes. 
I dont think it the built in PSK and RTTY modes were really
designed for serious work.  Like the Icom rigs with built
in decoders and encoders, there are some compromises.  They
are just very convenient to use.  The RTTY demod is pretty
good, tho, and I wish we could output decoded text from the
serial port... 

The RTTY capability is especially nice for the times when
your spotting program emails your phone to tell you that Mt
Athos is on 20m RTTY and you have to jump out of the pool,
run and get a towel, partially dry off while running through
the house to turn on the rig, swing the beam, flip on the
solid state amp and try to work the elusive monk without
waiting for Windows to boot and MMTTY to run.

-lu-w4lt-


Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 12:31:38 -0400
From: John Ragle tpcj1...@crocker.com
Subject: [Elecraft] PSK tuning [k3]...alternatives for the
immediate
future
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 4c6421ea.7080...@crocker.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Please don't take this comment to be frivolous or
intentionally 
snippy...but my take on the decoding functions built into
the K3 
firmware is that at this stage they are gimmicks or toys.

 As Ron observes, even an old warhorse like Digipan
works much 
better (...more easily, less fussily...) than the K3
routines (and I 
love my K3!). When one considers the range of other digital
methods 
available in, e.g. fldigi, it is apparent that Elecraft is
thinking in 
the right direction but is not all the way there, YET.

 I use Digipan or fldigi (3.12.5) routinely with my K3
without 
problems. For digital mode operation, SpectraVue is also a
very nice 
adjunct program.

 I have every faith that Elecraft will eventually
enhance the 
digital decoding functions in the K3. One will still want
something like 
SpectraVue to provide a window into the digital ops part of
the spectrum 
(or an LP-PAN or a P3, if funds permit). Eventually it will
be nice to 
be computer-free if one desires it...portability would be
enhanced 
somewhat, though a small laptop (e.g. a netbook) is not much
different 
in volume from an LP-PAN or a P3. My small ASUS Eee901 runs
software 
like Digipan and SpectraVue without flinching.

 I am not at all a Luddite WRT new solutions...just very
oriented 
toward functionality. This is also the reason that I rid
myself of my 
Flex 3000.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=

On 8/12/2010 11:46 AM, Ron Herman wrote:
 How does one tune PSK31 on the K3 such that the built in
decoder can
 read it. Tuning seems to be very selective and without a
waterfall
 nearly impossible to tune. The capture range of the AFC
doesn't seem
 to be very wide. The CWT spotting function sometimes helps
but only
 on stronger signals. Sensitivity to weak signals doesn't
seem to be
 very good either. With digipan on the PC I can decode
stuff that I
 can hardly hear.



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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Craig D. Smith
Neither was shipped with SN 67.

 ...   Craig  AC0DS

 No.  It appears to have been added somewhere around s/n 60 along with
 the IF buffer mod.  Neither was present in s/n 37.


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[Elecraft] P3 arrived damaged - sigh

2010-08-12 Thread Grant Youngman
P3 #96 finally arrived today.  After assembling the display module to the front 
panel, I realized there was this empty  hole where the Power button was 
supposed to be.

Found the button in the bottom of the display's protective bag.  Groan.  Those 
membranes are really fragile.  No way to tell if it tore loose going into the 
bag, or coming out of the bag.

So it will be a while until I get to try this thing out.  Hopefully my note to 
support will provide a solution quickly.

Grant/NQ5T
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK tuning [k3]...alternatives for the immediate

2010-08-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Lu,

You can output decoded text from the RS-232 port.  Put K3Utility into 
Terminal mode and the decoded text will appear in the K3Utility window.  
You can also type into the Transmit pane and it will be transmitted.  
Works for either RTTY or PSK31.  Lacking the computer, you can use the 
paddle input and the VFO B readout.  Yes, it all depends on what you 
have available - a proper functioning software application like DigiPan 
or HRD/DM780 will provide more convenience, but for those times when you 
have to be without the computer, the K3 will operate those modes 
standalone - just follow Lyle's instructions.

73,
Don W3FPR

Lu Romero wrote:
  I wish we could output decoded text from the
 serial port... 
   

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Missing Part: The Hole Cover

2010-08-12 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
The hole cover labels just came in last week and were not included in early P3 
shipments. We know who these are and will be sending them out to everyone.

73,
Eric. WA6HHQ

www.elecraft.com
_..._

On Aug 12, 2010, at 6:08 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote:

 Am I the only one who is missing the hole cover strip that was added to the 
 parts list and assembly instructions in the latest errata to the P3 manual?
 
 I looked everywhere and this is my second inventory of parts.  It is not 
 critical and will not hold up my assembly but I was curious if anyone else 
 has it.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
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