Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

2011-12-10 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Ross Primrose N4RP wrote:
On 12/9/2011 6:09 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

If it is an automatic antenna tuner, that is less of a problem.
 Except that the automatic circuitry, and it's power supply must also be
 isolated from ground. That part of the design problem seems non-trivial.


Seems fairly simple to me, use a transformer in the PS, and float the
secondary side...


Nope - there will be a large capacitance between the transformer 
windings. In parallel with this will be the capacitance between the 
entire RF sub-chassis and the outer metal case. If the choke balun is 
connected on the input side of the ATU, these quite large parallel 
capacitances will partially unbalance the output.

Worse yet (as Alan points out), if you select a coaxial output with the 
SO-239 socket grounded to the case, the balun becomes short-circuited 
from end to end. Alpha are working on a very similar auto-ATU but their 
proposed schematic shows exactly how 'broken' this concept is:
http://www.rfconcepts.com/PRODUCTS/New-Products/Alpha4040

Elecraft have done well to avoid this trap, and to decide that the 
KAT500 will be all-coaxial - because there simply isn't a one way fits 
all solution for a balanced ATU. Different user installations will 
require different solutions on different bands, so the optimum solution 
will always involve some customization, swapping or switching between 
1:1 balun, 4:1 balun and 'no balun'.

Please don't be confused by some ATU manufacturers' efforts to sell us a 
one way fits all balanced ATU. They're only doing that because a fully 
versatile engineered solution would be too complex and expensive. So 
Engineering steps back and Marketing takes over instead - bending *your* 
perceptions to fit what they have to sell.

Again, Elecraft have done well to avoid this.

Some time ago it was suggested that an all-coaxial KAT500 should also 
include programmable band-switched relay control outputs (rather like 
DIGOUT0 and DIGOUT1 on the K3) so that users have the option to 
configure their own custom relay switching if they need it. Did anything 
happen to that suggestion?


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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[Elecraft] 70cm K3 option?

2011-12-10 Thread Peter Schrader
Gidday from vk,

Any plans from Aptos to have a 70cm option for the K3?

Cheers,
Peter
VK4EA
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

2011-12-10 Thread Ken Chandler
just a thought, a highly polished stainless steel outer shell would be really 
nice to!!

Ken..G0ORH / M3i


Sent from my iPhone 


 


On 10 Dec 2011, at 01:33, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com 
wrote:

 Hi Mike,
 
 We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
 
 We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw 
 for the external screws since we started the company with the K2. These 
 are the same type of screw used by Alpha amps and a number of other ham 
 manufacturers.( I just got off the phone earlier today with Alpha 
 confirming this.)
 
 While receiving occasional reports of rust from tropical and extremely 
 humid areas, most users have not reported any problems. As an example, I 
 live 1 mile from the ocean here in CA, and the screws on my 12+ year old 
 K2, my K3, KX1, K1 etc are all pristine. We created the K3 SS screwkit 
 for the K3 as a special kit for dxpeditioners etc who were operating in 
 extreme conditions. It consists of all of the exterior screws on the K3 
 (not just the 4-40 x 3/16 screws) and was bought by us in low volumes, 
 hence the higher price. We're probably breaking even on these after 
 kitting, order entry etc. We're certainly not getting rich selling the 
 SS screw kits. :-)
 
 Also, the rust seen on extreme dxpeditions was restricted just to the 
 exterior screws. We haven't seen any serious corrosion with the interior 
 screws.
 
 That said, the screw corrosion thread here has prompted us to revisit 
 this and to look at phasing in SS screws across the whole product line. 
 It is certainly happening in more cases than we, our you, would like to 
 see. We are actively looking at sources right now and I'll report back 
 to the list as we get something defined, both for new kits and for mod 
 kits to existing rigs. This is a pretty big project to change it all 
 over. We'll make sure to keep the cost on the SS screw mod kits very 
 low. Our goal is to make sure there is nothing standing in the way of 
 the K2, and or other products, being perceived as high quality products.
 
 Also, in the near term, we'll replace any of the existing exterior 
 screws with the same type at no cost for corrosion. Just email 
 pa...@elecraft.com and let them know which screws you need and the qty etc.
 
 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
 
 www.elecraft.com
 
 
 On 12/9/2011 7:14 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
 Thanks.
 
 I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover screws.
 
 They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.
 
 The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit
 not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.
 
 Mike W0MU
 
 W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
 
 
 On 12/9/2011 5:28 AM, Phil  Debbie Salas wrote:
 FWIW - I bought #4x1/4 SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster Carr.
 Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and KPA500.
 
 Phil - AD5X
 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

2011-12-10 Thread Mike
Okay gents. I'm convinced. I do like a good exchange.

73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] Aux cable for KPA500

2011-12-10 Thread John_N1JM
Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I will order the aux cable.

73, John N1JM

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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread Jim Dunstan
At 03:03 PM 12/9/2011 -0800, you wrote:
In the 1960's one very popular and cheap H.F. antenna was the folded dipole.
Often they were made from the ubiquitous 300 ohm twin lead used on TV
antennas and fed with the same twin lead since the impedance of a folded
dipole is close to 300 ohms. The first time I saw 4:1 baluns being sold to
Hams was to make it easy to connect the 300 ohm feeder to such a folded
dipole to the output of a rig designed to feed 50 ohms.

As Hams migrated away from rigs with tunable output networks to rigs with
fixed tuned outputs, MFJ and others produced a line of antenna tuners
specifically designed to correct feed line mismatches since that could no
longer be done at the rig. They included the popular 4:1 balun for those who
were feeding various open wire lines (typically 300 to 600 ohms but which
may have significant SWR - so the impedance might vary much more).

It seems that many Hams considered the 4:1 ratio some sort of magic number,
when all it was intended to do was provide a good transfer between 300 ohms
and 50 ohms.


Ron AC7AC

Hi

Back in late 50's early 60's I bought my first balun from Heathkit ... made 
from special Bifiler wound
Airdux coils which could be connected in either 1:1 or 4:1 
configuration.  I still have that balun in its
5x9x9 aluminium case.  I used it with my first Xmiter which was 
homebrew, 300 watts, and
plate modulated AM.

I used a folded dipole made of 300 ohm twinlead fed by the same twinlead 
and the balun in a 4:1
configuration.  The dipole was strung between 70ft towers.  It was a 
wonderful setup at a wonderful
time (from a propagation point of view).  The ZL's and VK's were like 
locals!  es we used to chat
about the best way to grow tomatoes hihi

These days I still use a balanced feed system with either 300 or 450 ohm 
feed line ... but with
fixed impedance output xmiters and vy much lower power.  I no longer use 
fixed resonant
folded dipoles ... but a nonresonant dipole that is useable on multiple 
bands with a matching
unit at the shack.  The matching unit I use is a link coupled L network .. 
often referred to as
a Z-match.

The system seems to be vy efficient as I have no problem working the world 
with 20 watts.  SSB
for local contacts and nets and CW/PSK for DX.  No problems with RFI 
!!  Back in the day .. my 300
watt AM xmiter was a TV killer  but then no one in out neighborhood 
watched TV during the day
(week-ends excluded) and the (1 station) shut down at midnight.  I just had 
to stay up late and/or
skip school hi hi.

Jim, VE3CI






-Original Message-

I can attest to what Vic says. I have an 88-foot long doublet, hung about 45
feet up, fed with 85 feet of 600-ohm ladder line. At the shack end I have a
1:1 balun, and then about six feet of RG/8X running to the K3. The K3's
tuner likes the combination. I tried replacing the 1:1 balun with a 4:1 from
the same manufacturer. The K3 was quite unhappy with the change in
components. The 4:1 went back on the shelf, the 1:1 went back inline. YMMV

Jim / W6JHB


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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

2011-12-10 Thread VE3NFK
Hi 

I have the stainless steel kit (tho' still not installed and I have no rust)
but all these messages about rust led me to remember this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRKmkybIaqc

hope you enjoy   - and sorry for the OT... Eric will be closing it soon
anyway :-)

73  John  VE3NFK

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[Elecraft] K1 Not Transmitting

2011-12-10 Thread Eric Christensen
I bought my K1, fully assembled, about a year ago.  I've recently noticed
that when I transmit that there are no emissions.  The SWR is showing as
9.9 from the tuner (I can hear all the tuner relays latch and unlatch when
doing the test).

Can anyone help point me to what may be the problem?

73,
Eric W4OTN
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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread Paul Christensen
 It seems that many Hams considered the 4:1 ratio some sort of magic 
 number,
 when all it was intended to do was provide a good transfer between 300 
 ohms
 and 50 ohms.

I just modeled a typical 20m folded twin-lead dipole using 4Nec2 and TLD 
software.  Had never tried that one before.

The antenna feed-point Z at a half-wave height (33 FT) above average ground 
computes to 291-j7.7.  That's surprisingly close to 300 ohms resistive. 
With TLD software, I then coupled the feed-point with 300-ohm twin-lead 
line.  Finally, I varied line length between 0 and 1/2 electrical wavelength 
and watched the resulting Z at the line input.  Z always stays between 290 
and 310 ohms with very little reactance.  Total system loss never exceeds 
0.25 dB.  The 300-ohm VSWR stays near 1.05:1 and not surprisingly, the 
50-ohm VSWR stays near 6:1.  While a 4:1 balun can probably result in 
efficient transfer of power into the line from a modern 50-ohm output Z 
transceiver, I think a 6:1 ratio current balun would be a better choice 
under these circumstances, assuming one wanted to avoid an ATU at (or 
within) the rig altogether.

No wonder this antenna was so popular.  The antenna and line all use the 
same inexpensive 300-ohm twin lead material.  The match at the antenna is so 
good that line VSWR (300) and loss is negligible.

Paul, W9AC

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Not Transmitting

2011-12-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
Eric,

The first thing I would check is the coax.  The 9.9 SWR indicates a 
likely short or open circuit in the feedline.

Try connecting a dummy load with known good coax and see what happens.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Eric Christensen wrote:
 I bought my K1, fully assembled, about a year ago.  I've recently noticed
 that when I transmit that there are no emissions.  The SWR is showing as
 9.9 from the tuner (I can hear all the tuner relays latch and unlatch when
 doing the test).

 Can anyone help point me to what may be the problem?

 73,
 Eric W4OTN

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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread WILLIS COOKE
The down side of the 300 ohm twin lead folded dipole is that 300 ohm twin lead 
usually is made from small wire and not mechanically very strong, so it is not 
durable for fixed stations with varying weather conditions and the wire is too 
small for anything but low power.  With either the 300 ohm twin lead or a 
folded dipole fabricated from #14 or heavier conductors a 4:1 balun is needed 
to tune well with a 50 ohm output or to transition to coax.  Then it is about 
as good as a well made dipole.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 


 From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun
 
 It seems that many Hams considered the 4:1 ratio some sort of magic 
 number,
 when all it was intended to do was provide a good transfer between 300 
 ohms
 and 50 ohms.

I just modeled a typical 20m folded twin-lead dipole using 4Nec2 and TLD 
software.  Had never tried that one before.

The antenna feed-point Z at a half-wave height (33 FT) above average ground 
computes to 291-j7.7.  That's surprisingly close to 300 ohms resistive. 
With TLD software, I then coupled the feed-point with 300-ohm twin-lead 
line.  Finally, I varied line length between 0 and 1/2 electrical wavelength 
and watched the resulting Z at the line input.  Z always stays between 290 
and 310 ohms with very little reactance.  Total system loss never exceeds 
0.25 dB.  The 300-ohm VSWR stays near 1.05:1 and not surprisingly, the 
50-ohm VSWR stays near 6:1.  While a 4:1 balun can probably result in 
efficient transfer of power into the line from a modern 50-ohm output Z 
transceiver, I think a 6:1 ratio current balun would be a better choice 
under these circumstances, assuming one wanted to avoid an ATU at (or 
within) the rig altogether.

No wonder this antenna was so popular.  The antenna and line all use the 
same inexpensive 300-ohm twin lead material.  The match at the antenna is so 
good that line VSWR (300) and loss is negligible.

Paul, W9AC

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[Elecraft] KX3 AM reception

2011-12-10 Thread Phillip Nichols
  switchable low-pass filter components that optimize receive 
performance when you're listening in the AM broadcast band

The info page states RX down to 1MHz.   Is the above saying that 
actually it goes down to 560AM as in Commercial AM broadcast?

Sorry if I missed something.

TNX72/73,Phillip   N8AYE
-.-. --.-   -.. .   .--- -.-. - -.-- --- ..-

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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread Paul Christensen
 The down side of the 300 ohm twin lead folded dipole is that 300 ohm twin 
 lead usually is made from small wire and not mechanically very strong, so it 
 is not durable for fixed stations with varying weather conditions and the 
 wire is too small for anything but low power.  With either the 300 ohm twin 
 lead or a folded dipole fabricated from #14 or heavier conductors a 4:1 balun 
 is needed to tune well with a 50 ohm output or to transition to coax.  Then 
 it is about as good as a well made dipole.

I think the mechanical issues can be managed.  Generally, there's also less 
opportunity for water ingress than a coaxial line termination, unless more 
complex measures are taken for water-proofing.  I've got new respect for the 
folded dipole (FD).  The bandwidth of the FD is about 40% better between 2:1 
VSWR points than a straight wire dipole.  This is due primarily to an 
effectively larger radiating conductor size (rather than end stub effects), 
wire size remaining constant.   For 80m-75m operating, the FD would be a good 
choice among the die-hard I only use resonant antenna ops.  For K2 or K3 
owners, any common ratio current balun ratio would work reasonably well if 
equipped with the internal ATU.  If no ATU, then a 6:1 current balun would do 
the best job of transferring power into the line. 

The big drawback is that the FD won't work efficiently on even harmonics, even 
with a tuner at the shack end of the line.  But for mono-band performance, 
cost, ease of construction, it seems tough to beat.

Paul, W9AC
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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread Nate Bargmann
Advice I read years back cautioned to stay away from the foam dielectric
300 Ohm ribbon lead.  The solid dielectric handles more power and
doesn't get water contamination in the dielectric.

How does modeling with 450 Ohm window lead work out?  That would suggest
a 9:1 balun.  The reason I ask is because I built a double Zepp type
antenna in the early '90s and fed it with 300 Ohm ribbon lead from the
doublet to the shack.  There was a noteable performance increase when the
wind took it down and I used 450 Ohm window lead instead.  Also, the 450
Ohm window lead has proven very rugged for me.  The doublet has been up
at three different QTHs and is almost 20 years old.

73, de Nate N0NB 

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possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true.

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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[Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor running under Wine/Linux?

2011-12-10 Thread Larry J on Ubuntu 10.04 Desktop
Any one successfully running  the K3 Memory Editor under Wine in Linux?

I  installed winetricks (http://wiki.winehq.org/winetricks) and the Memory 
Editor program appears to function (Spreadsheet like user interface appears) 
but the Memory Editor program then never picks up my symbolic links to the com 
ports.   The error message reports that The PortName cannot be empty when I 
attempt Read from K3.  The drop down com port selector is blank even though  
my ~/.wine/dosdevices has the suggested symbolic links:

lj@lian2:~./wine/dosdevices  ls -al com1
lrwxrwxrwx 1 lj lj 2011-12-10 10:35  com1 - /dev/ttyS0

My attempts were made under Ubuntu Linux 10.04 and Wine 1.2.2.  Thanks for any 
help.

Larry W0AY
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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread Paul Christensen
 How does modeling with 450 Ohm window lead work out?  That would suggest
 a 9:1 balun.

Someone earlier (K2VCO, I believe) cautioned against falling into the trap 
of believing that the characteristic Z of the line is always the impedance 
actually present at the end of the line.  The Z seen at the line end is 
determined by several factors, including the magnitude of the line-to-load 
(mis)match, type of feedline, and feedline length.  For multi-band wire 
antennas, the line input Z can range from less than 10 ohms with some short 
antennas to over 5K ohm.  These numbers appear at the line input.  Just 
because it may be 450-ohm line does not mean that's the target Z to tune 
and match.  The only time 450-ohm line presents a 450-ohm impedance at the 
line input regardless of distance, is when the characteristic Z of the line 
equals the load Z and line loss is small.

In the case of the folded dipole for mono-band operation, the antenna 
feed-point Z can easily be made 300 ohms with little or no reactance with a 
bit of antenna length pruning and perhaps slight height change.  Feeding it 
only with a 300-ohm characteristic Z line makes best sense, since the Z at 
the line input, regardless of line length is going to be near 300-ohms at 
the cut operating frequency, with little reactance.

Paul, W9AC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Dec 10, 2011, at 12:38 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
  I've got new respect for the folded dipole (FD).  The bandwidth of the FD is 
 about 40% better between 2:1 VSWR points than a straight wire dipole.

Yes, and a 3-wire dipole nearly doubles the SWR bandwidth relative to a regular 
dipole.  

As you say, the antenna is not useable on even harmonics but for some, having 
to put up a separate 40-meter dipole is a small price to pay for being able to 
cover a large chunk of 80/75 meters without having to retune an antenna coupler.

Bud, W2RU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor running under Wine/Linux?

2011-12-10 Thread Dick Dievendorff
The .Net framework and Windows versions of the Elecraft Utilities discover Com 
ports through registry key/values defined for this purpose.  Drivers install 
their names there in Windows. I'm away from my code, and don't recall the exact 
key but the key has HARDWARE and SERIALCOMM in it. Try this link for the 
technique

http://eli.thegreenplace.net/2009/07/31/listing-all-serial-ports-on-windows-with-python/

Dick, K6KR

On Dec 10, 2011, at 8:19, Larry J on Ubuntu 10.04 Desktop 
la...@foxgulch.com wrote:

 Any one successfully running  the K3 Memory Editor under Wine in Linux?
 
 I  installed winetricks (http://wiki.winehq.org/winetricks) and the Memory 
 Editor program appears to function (Spreadsheet like user interface appears) 
 but the Memory Editor program then never picks up my symbolic links to the 
 com ports.   The error message reports that The PortName cannot be empty 
 when I attempt Read from K3.  The drop down com port selector is blank even 
 though  my ~/.wine/dosdevices has the suggested symbolic links:
 
 lj@lian2:~./wine/dosdevices  ls -al com1
 lrwxrwxrwx 1 lj lj 2011-12-10 10:35  com1 - /dev/ttyS0
 
 My attempts were made under Ubuntu Linux 10.04 and Wine 1.2.2.  Thanks for 
 any help.
 
 Larry W0AY
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 AM reception

2011-12-10 Thread Wayne Burdick
 The info page states RX down to 1MHz.   Is the above saying that 
 actually it goes down to 560AM as in Commercial AM broadcast?

Yes. Probably down to 490 kHz, maybe even lower. 

Wayne
N6KR

 
 Sorry if I missed something.
 
 TNX72/73,Phillip   N8AYE
 -.-. --.-   -.. .   .--- -.-. - -.-- --- ..-
 
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[Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread f9o...@wanadoo.fr
Hello
I have used a center fed zepp for about 20 years. First, I built a classical 
tuner with separate coils, one for each band, adjustment with a variable 
capacitor and alligator clips on the coils ! Worked fine, but what a delight 
when changing bands...
Later on I made a compact tuner, a T match type with a roller inductor. (Used 
450 ohms twin-lead as a feeder) Did not work so well, but quite adapted to a 
lazy old man.
And in 2010, in the April issue of QST I came across a description of an 
antenna system : a 4:1 balun, made of 50 ohm coax cable, connected to the rig 
through a tuner.
I don't personnally approve of the system, but decided to have a go. So I made 
the balun with H100 cable, connected it to the K3 ATU and to my surprise it 
matches my rig from 160m to 10M, including the WARC bands. I know it's not 
technically reasonnable, but it suits me perfectly, and the K3 behaves OK !
Have a look at the article, gentlemen, it might interest you.
Best 73 to all
Jacques de F9OJ
K3 # 2450
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[Elecraft] Best place to buy small qty of parts?

2011-12-10 Thread Wayne Conrad
My KAT100 is showing the symptoms of fried pin diodes (1N5711).  I need 
two (or maybe 4, if the KPA100 was affected as well).  I might as well 
have some in stock, too.

Where can I order a small quantity of diodes (say, a dozen), that won't 
charge too much on shipping?

Thanks,
Wayne KF7QGA
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Re: [Elecraft] Best place to buy small qty of parts?

2011-12-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I use Mouser (www.mouser.com) or Digi-Key (www.digikey.com).

73, 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Conrad
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 11:51 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Best place to buy small qty of parts?

My KAT100 is showing the symptoms of fried pin diodes (1N5711).  I need 
two (or maybe 4, if the KPA100 was affected as well).  I might as well 
have some in stock, too.

Where can I order a small quantity of diodes (say, a dozen), that won't 
charge too much on shipping?

Thanks,
Wayne KF7QGA
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[Elecraft] Antennas

2011-12-10 Thread David Robertson
I get my elecraft mail in journal form so my response is delayed. I had to 
mention that people who make broad statements about feed lines and antennas 
should check the antenna book and handbook before producing the wrong 
information.

Here is an example:

The impedance of the feed line does not change the impedance of the antenna.  
A half wave length dipole at the proper height is still a 50 ohm feed 
regardless of whether it's fed with 50ohm line or 600 ohm line.

Last time I checked a dipole (single wire 1/2 wavelength center fed) is 75 
ohms. The part of the statement about impedance of the feed line is correct but 
with swr on the feedline the apparent impedance can can different
Happy Holidays everyone.
73
Dave KD1NA

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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas

2011-12-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Good advice David, but the earth affects the impedance of a dipole. 

When fed at the center a dipole exhibits a 75-ohm impedance in free space.
But, when brought close to the earth (which most HF antennas are,
electrically) the impedance is lowered. At the typical heights most of us
hang our HF wires - say 30 to 60 feet above the earth - the impedance is
closer to 50 ohms, especially on the lower frequency bands.

Of course, Dipole refers to the fact that the length of the radiator is
such that a voltage loop (maxima) occurs exactly at each end, hence it has
two poles. So a simple radiator is a dipole at only one frequency or, for
practical use, one Ham band. 

You can feed a dipole at any point along its length. The impedance is lowest
at the exact center (at the current loop) and will rise as the feed point is
moved toward either end. Center feed is probably the most popular because
its impedance happily coincides with the impedance of common coaxial line.
At this QTH, I have a 130 foot end fed wire in Inverted L configuration
because my shack had to go at one end of the only clear run for a wire. It
is a dipole on 80 meters and does exhibit very high feed point impedance. 

That requires a matching network that can handle very high voltages but has
the advantage that very little current flows into the antenna and so very
little current flows into the ground system, resulting in very high overall
efficiency. 

73,  

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

I get my elecraft mail in journal form so my response is delayed. I had to
mention that people who make broad statements about feed lines and antennas
should check the antenna book and handbook before producing the wrong
information.

Here is an example:

The impedance of the feed line does not change the impedance of the
antenna.  A half wave length dipole at the proper height is still a 50 ohm
feed regardless of whether it's fed with 50ohm line or 600 ohm line.

Last time I checked a dipole (single wire 1/2 wavelength center fed) is 75
ohms. The part of the statement about impedance of the feed line is correct
but with swr on the feedline the apparent impedance can can different
Happy Holidays everyone.
73
Dave KD1NA

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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas

2011-12-10 Thread Ken
A center fed half wave dipole is only 75 ohms in free space (I guess the ISS 
qualifies) or at a few specific heights (approximately .23, .46 and .74 
wavelengths above ground).   At other heights, it varies from as low as 45 ohms 
(over real ground) to as high as 100 ohms. 

That's why I specifically said at the PROPER HEIGHT is still a 50 ohm feed.

My statement wasn't really a broad statement, was it?   It was pretty specific.

I have been reading the Handbook and the Antenna Book since the 10th edition 
came out in 1964.

Ken WA8JXM



 I get my elecraft mail in journal form so my response is delayed. I had to 
 mention that people who make broad statements about feed lines and antennas 
 should check the antenna book and handbook before producing the wrong 
 information.
 
 Here is an example:
 
 The impedance of the feed line does not change the impedance of the antenna. 
  A half wave length dipole at the proper height is still a 50 ohm feed 
 regardless of whether it's fed with 50ohm line or 600 ohm line.
 
 Last time I checked a dipole (single wire 1/2 wavelength center fed) is 75 
 ohms. The part of the statement about impedance of the feed line is correct 
 but with swr on the feedline the apparent impedance can can different
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[Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
Wayne-

I am a bit embarrassed about something that just happened in my shack because i 
think i just blew up my external 6m preamp.  

I was putting in line my six meter preamp and using a db15 Y connector with my 
Yaesu Quadra amp on the other connector. I was not transmitting and just 
getting it connected and then I heard a super loud pop.

I disconnected eveything and then tested the transceiver and the amp.  The K3 
is fine but the amp was locked. I turned off the amp and restarted it and and 
it was fine.  I reconnected the preamp and put the antenna in direct line with 
the K3 disconnecting it from the amp. The preamp when energizes reduces the 
signal strength. I think the pop came from the preamp. It is hard for me to 
isolate the noise source because I had my headset on. For sure it was working 
for about 20 seconds and then the pop occurred. It scared my dogs and myself it 
was so loud.

I am not sure how I can test the preamp to see if it indeed blown. Any thoughts 
would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread Jim Dunstan
At 09:12 AM 12/10/2011 -0800, you wrote:

The down side of the 300 ohm twin lead folded dipole is that 300 ohm twin 
lead usually is made from small wire and not mechanically very strong, so 
it is not durable for fixed stations with varying weather conditions and 
the wire is too small for anything but low power.  With either the 300 ohm 
twin lead or a folded dipole fabricated from #14 or heavier conductors a 
4:1 balun is needed to tune well with a 50 ohm output or to transition to 
coax.  Then it is about as good as a well made dipole.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart

Hi,

No problem using good quality 300 TV twinlead with high power.  Remember 
current is much reduced when feeding into a 300 ohm load vs a 75 ohm 
load.  As I mentioned, I consistently used such an arrangement with a 4:1 
balun feeding the folded dipole at 70 ft running with 300watts and fully 
plate modulated AM.  In addition since the twinlead is operating with no 
standing waves there is no chance of magnified voltages and currents as a 
result of phase shifting.  Never had a problem with RF power.  Now to be 
fair TV twinlead was commonly available in at least 3 grades ... heavy, 
medium, or light.  I am not sure what is available today in what is called 
TV twinlead.  I understand it is possible to buy 300 ohm twinlead that is 
manufactured for power handling  I don't know if anyone uses it for 
making folded dipoles (I suspect not).   If one were to construct such a 
folded dipole for any HF band I can guarantee they will not have any power 
handling problems to today's legal power limit.

I have also used TV twinlead to feed non-resonant doublets (100 inverted 
vee is a favourite) and used a 100watt AM transmitter (DX-100) with a 
balanced transmatch  again, never had a power problem with the  feed 
line.  This arrangement is a bit tricky.  Choosing a useable feed line 
length solves any power problems.

However, you are correct about mechanical reliability.  I did have to fix 
the antenna several times a year.

At one time the cable manufacturers also made 75 ohm twinlead in both a 
lightweight and heavy duty version.  The 75 ohm versions were more 
susceptible to current/heat damage due to the much greater current feeding 
an antenna with with a 75 ohm resonant impedance.  The light weight version 
was only good for 25 to 50 watts but great for portable work as it was very 
light.  It used to be the standard configuration for commercial portable 
radio service used by northern trappers es miners.  Their radios only ran 3 
to 5 watts.  I used the heavy duty 75 ohm twinlead to feed a cubical quad 
for years ... again 100watts AM.

Jim, VE3CI


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[Elecraft] FS K-1

2011-12-10 Thread Mark Flavin




For sale K-1 s/n 0930 excellent condition w/built in tuner.  Too many radios.  
$400 + shipping.  Will accept PayPal.  Pics available.  Off list 
markf1...@hotmail.com or n...@dfn.com  Thanks Mark N5MF 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread Robert Mccormack
While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power 
cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz 
difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power limitation 
- searched the archives but no luck.

Any help is appreciated.

73, Ken ZL1AIH.

 
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Mark Bayern
You could open it up and see if any 'spare' parts fall out, or if any
of the components on the board look like they have let out their magic
smoke. Missing/blackened traces on the PC board would also be a
telltale sign.

(I am assuming that any failure that actually created a loud noise
ought to be visible.)

Mark  AD5SS



On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 3:25 PM, Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Wayne-

 I am a bit embarrassed about something that just happened in my shack because 
 i think i just blew up my external 6m preamp.

 I was putting in line my six meter preamp and using a db15 Y connector with 
 my Yaesu Quadra amp on the other connector. I was not transmitting and just 
 getting it connected and then I heard a super loud pop.

 I disconnected eveything and then tested the transceiver and the amp.  The K3 
 is fine but the amp was locked. I turned off the amp and restarted it and and 
 it was fine.  I reconnected the preamp and put the antenna in direct line 
 with the K3 disconnecting it from the amp. The preamp when energizes reduces 
 the signal strength. I think the pop came from the preamp. It is hard for me 
 to isolate the noise source because I had my headset on. For sure it was 
 working for about 20 seconds and then the pop occurred. It scared my dogs and 
 myself it was so loud.

 I am not sure how I can test the preamp to see if it indeed blown. Any 
 thoughts would be appreciated.

 Thanks,

 Keith
 AG6AZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
Hi Mark,

There is nothing physical like burn or open visible to the eye.I will probably 
try connecting it to an external power supply and see if that fixes the issue. 

Whatever happened it was loud. I wonder if the Y connectors are flawed because 
I was also going to hook up my LP Panadapter later that I just received. 

This is freaking me out a little. I love that rig.

Thanks,

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 10, 2011, at 2:17 PM, Mark Bayern plcm...@gmail.com wrote:

 You could open it up and see if any 'spare' parts fall out, or if any
 of the components on the board look like they have let out their magic
 smoke. Missing/blackened traces on the PC board would also be a
 telltale sign.
 
 (I am assuming that any failure that actually created a loud noise
 ought to be visible.)
 
 Mark  AD5SS
 
 
 
 On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 3:25 PM, Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Wayne-
 
 I am a bit embarrassed about something that just happened in my shack 
 because i think i just blew up my external 6m preamp.
 
 I was putting in line my six meter preamp and using a db15 Y connector with 
 my Yaesu Quadra amp on the other connector. I was not transmitting and just 
 getting it connected and then I heard a super loud pop.
 
 I disconnected eveything and then tested the transceiver and the amp.  The 
 K3 is fine but the amp was locked. I turned off the amp and restarted it and 
 and it was fine.  I reconnected the preamp and put the antenna in direct 
 line with the K3 disconnecting it from the amp. The preamp when energizes 
 reduces the signal strength. I think the pop came from the preamp. It is 
 hard for me to isolate the noise source because I had my headset on. For 
 sure it was working for about 20 seconds and then the pop occurred. It 
 scared my dogs and myself it was so loud.
 
 I am not sure how I can test the preamp to see if it indeed blown. Any 
 thoughts would be appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Keith
 AG6AZ
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Fred Jensen
Keith, please tell all of us your headphones were *not* plugged in when 
you had them on and were plugging and unplugging stuff ... we all want 
live Elecrafters.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

On 12/10/2011 1:25 PM, Keith Heimbold wrote:

 I think the pop came from the preamp. It is hard for me to isolate
 the noise source because I had my headset on.
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
Fred,

I had them on. Bad idea. I will be more careful.

Thanks,

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 10, 2011, at 2:38 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:

 Keith, please tell all of us your headphones were *not* plugged in when 
 you had them on and were plugging and unplugging stuff ... we all want 
 live Elecrafters.
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
 - www.cqp.org
 
 On 12/10/2011 1:25 PM, Keith Heimbold wrote:
 
 I think the pop came from the preamp. It is hard for me to isolate
 the noise source because I had my headset on.
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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas

2011-12-10 Thread Sandy
This particular technique using a half wave antenna as an end fed wire 
can be VERY dicey if you run high power, but as Ron says the efficiency 
rises as the ground losses fall.  (Percentage wise)   A way to get maximum 
use of a 100 watter or a QRP rig when your space available is small.

Somewhere is this thread of discussions the balun is mentioned, especially 
the 4:1 one.  IF you are using a 4:1 transformer type balun (the ones 
commonly wound on toroid forms)  Losses MAY be high and also destructive to 
the balun if there is a large of amount of inductive or capacitive reactance 
the balun is dealing with!  Do not assume the reactance is low unless 
you have measured it as such at the frequency of operation!  Choke type 
baluns usually escape this destruction (burning up, overheating, core 
shattering, etc.) more easily than the transformer types!

Don't forget one of the simplest networks there is, the L network, is also 
sometimes the most efficient yet devised.  Most of the automatic type tuners 
are based on a multielement switching L network.

73 to all,

Sandy W5TVW

-Original Message- 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:43 PM
To: 'David Robertson' ; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antennas

Good advice David, but the earth affects the impedance of a dipole.

When fed at the center a dipole exhibits a 75-ohm impedance in free space.
But, when brought close to the earth (which most HF antennas are,
electrically) the impedance is lowered. At the typical heights most of us
hang our HF wires - say 30 to 60 feet above the earth - the impedance is
closer to 50 ohms, especially on the lower frequency bands.

Of course, Dipole refers to the fact that the length of the radiator is
such that a voltage loop (maxima) occurs exactly at each end, hence it has
two poles. So a simple radiator is a dipole at only one frequency or, for
practical use, one Ham band.

You can feed a dipole at any point along its length. The impedance is lowest
at the exact center (at the current loop) and will rise as the feed point is
moved toward either end. Center feed is probably the most popular because
its impedance happily coincides with the impedance of common coaxial line.
At this QTH, I have a 130 foot end fed wire in Inverted L configuration
because my shack had to go at one end of the only clear run for a wire. It
is a dipole on 80 meters and does exhibit very high feed point impedance.

That requires a matching network that can handle very high voltages but has
the advantage that very little current flows into the antenna and so very
little current flows into the ground system, resulting in very high overall
efficiency.

73,

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

I get my elecraft mail in journal form so my response is delayed. I had to
mention that people who make broad statements about feed lines and antennas
should check the antenna book and handbook before producing the wrong
information.

Here is an example:

The impedance of the feed line does not change the impedance of the
antenna.  A half wave length dipole at the proper height is still a 50 ohm
feed regardless of whether it's fed with 50ohm line or 600 ohm line.

Last time I checked a dipole (single wire 1/2 wavelength center fed) is 75
ohms. The part of the statement about impedance of the feed line is correct
but with swr on the feedline the apparent impedance can can different
Happy Holidays everyone.
73
Dave KD1NA

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4672 - Release Date: 12/10/11 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Make sure the KPA100 option is installed and enabled. That sounds like it is
not (the basic K3 has a 10 watt transmitter). Suggest you look in the
Owner's manual and perform the procedures to enable and then test and
calibrate the KPA100. Likely that will point to the problem. 

Good luck! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power
cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz
difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power
limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

Any help is appreciated.

73, Ken ZL1AIH.


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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
I had to have them off for part of it but def had them on when I put on the 
preamp.

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 10, 2011, at 2:38 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:

 Keith, please tell all of us your headphones were *not* plugged in when 
 you had them on and were plugging and unplugging stuff ... we all want 
 live Elecrafters.
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
 - www.cqp.org
 
 On 12/10/2011 1:25 PM, Keith Heimbold wrote:
 
 I think the pop came from the preamp. It is hard for me to isolate
 the noise source because I had my headset on.
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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas

2011-12-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Ah, but Sandy, it's so reminiscent of the old shipboard installations! I can
hang a neon or fluorescent lamp on the antenna where it exits the shack and
it'll blink as I pound the key, just like Sparks did, Hi! 

But, yes, direct feed antennas that come into the shack require care to
insulate and isolate the high RF voltages. And there are
frequency/power/distance-from-human limits to observe to meet the RF
exposure regulations. 

I use a big manual L-net tuner for my end fed wire. AFAIK, all Elecraft
tuners use L-networks. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

This particular technique using a half wave antenna as an end fed wire 
can be VERY dicey if you run high power, but as Ron says the efficiency 
rises as the ground losses fall.  (Percentage wise)   A way to get maximum 
use of a 100 watter or a QRP rig when your space available is small.

Somewhere is this thread of discussions the balun is mentioned, especially

the 4:1 one.  IF you are using a 4:1 transformer type balun (the ones 
commonly wound on toroid forms)  Losses MAY be high and also destructive to 
the balun if there is a large of amount of inductive or capacitive reactance

the balun is dealing with!  Do not assume the reactance is low unless 
you have measured it as such at the frequency of operation!  Choke type 
baluns usually escape this destruction (burning up, overheating, core 
shattering, etc.) more easily than the transformer types!

Don't forget one of the simplest networks there is, the L network, is also

sometimes the most efficient yet devised.  Most of the automatic type tuners

are based on a multielement switching L network.

73 to all,

Sandy W5TVW


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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
I did deenergize the equipment during the install. Anyway, something is wrong 
and more troubleshooting is needed.

Thanks,

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 10, 2011, at 2:38 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:

 Keith, please tell all of us your headphones were *not* plugged in when 
 you had them on and were plugging and unplugging stuff ... we all want 
 live Elecrafters.
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
 - www.cqp.org
 
 On 12/10/2011 1:25 PM, Keith Heimbold wrote:
 
 I think the pop came from the preamp. It is hard for me to isolate
 the noise source because I had my headset on.
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Re: [Elecraft] Multiple ACC ports needed

2011-12-10 Thread Doug Turnbull
Hi All,
I never paid any attention to this in the past but am grateful that
Keith brought up the question.   I will order a cable myself as at the
moment there is a new requirement for the ACC port at EI2CN.   Thank you to
both Joe and Keith.
   73 Doug EI2CN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Keith Heimbold
Sent: 09 December 2011 21:30
To: Joe Subich, W4TV
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Multiple ACC ports needed

Please disregard question. Sorry for inconvenience.

Thanks,

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 9, 2011, at 1:23 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 
 Check the reflector archives.  This has been discussed many* times.
 
 The simple solution is an all 15 Y-cable:
 
   www.cablewholesale.com  p/n 10H1-27708
 
 It's still listed for $3.44 in single quantity with a notation in
 stock - Usually ships same day
 
 73,
 
   ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 12/9/2011 3:54 PM, Keith Heimbold wrote:
 All -
 
 I am a new K3 owner and I just noticed that my K3 needs to connect both
the 6m preamp and my Quadra amplifier to the ACC port on the K3. Does anyone
know of a device or cable that would allow me to bridge across multiple
external devices.  Any assistance would be much appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Keith
 AG6AZ
 
 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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[Elecraft] KAT-500 (was: K3-Twin with Remoterig)

2011-12-10 Thread Edward R. Cole
Just another old guy rememberance:

Being 14 years-old and a fresh new Novice,  I soldered at PL-259 on 
the end of the TV twinlead coming in from my 40m folded dipole and 
plugged into the DX-35.  The hardy old 6146 loaded it just fine with 
the pi-net output circuit.  A few years later I learned that was 
wrong.  I worked a lot of 40m CW while it was wrong!

Later I made two 8-element 2m yagi's using conduit and #8 aluminum 
ground wire, hooked it to twin lead and was given a Television 4:1 
balun to use for matching the 20w.  My two No. 47 pilot lamp SWR 
indicator indicated a pretty good match!

I had under $100 in that 2m AM station which included antennas, 
35-foot tower, ARC-1, power supply, and WWII tank radio mic.  I had a 
lot of local ham help.  My big DX was Flint, MI (35-miles away).


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
Is the KPA100 turned on?

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/10/2011 3:09 PM, Robert Mccormack wrote:
 While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power 
 cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
 Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz 
 difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

 Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power 
 limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

 Any help is appreciated.

 73, Ken ZL1AIH.

   
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[Elecraft] 40ssb from 7181 to 7185

2011-12-10 Thread tom martin
good eve.. I have noticed that only from 7.181 to approx 7.185 ish there is 
distortion of received and transmitted signals, sounds just like rf on both 
sides. this issue completely goes away either above or below these freqs and 
does not exsist on any other band. Any input would be appreciated.. My serial # 
4750 qrp version. 73  Tom  km4cu   
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[Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

2011-12-10 Thread Joe Word
Could we get more info on this possible fix, how much disassembly is
required? Looks like the PA unit must come out?

Joe  N9VX
--
I think I may have solved this problem. One of the other posts mentions that
the Z-bracket screws are too long and you don't get a tight fit. I changed
the five screws from 5/16 to 3/16 and did notice a better grip between the
bracket and the PA assembly. I have run it all evening and haven't heard a
click or a pop. I even ran the temp up and still nothing. Will it last? I
don't know, but it seems to have fixed it. The guy who suggested this has
submitted it to Elecraft for a change. Good luck and lets hear if any of you
have the same result.
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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread Augie Gus Hansen
On 12/10/2011 2:35 PM, Jim Dunstan wrote:
 ... I don't know if anyone uses it for making folded dipoles (I 
 suspect not). If one were to construct such a folded dipole for 
 any HF band I can guarantee they will not have any power handling 
 problems to today's legal power limit.

In this weekend's ARRL 10m contest, one of the antennas I'm using is 
a vertical folded dipole fashioned from transmitting quality 300 Ohm 
window line and matched at the TX end via a 4:1 balun. I'm running 
only 100 watts for this contest, but it can handle full legal limit 
with ease.

This antenna system provides a minimum VSWR of about 1.4:1 at 
resonance (28.5 MHz) due to the slight mismatch (75 vs 50 Ohms) and 
less than 1.7:1 at the 10 meter band band edges.

73,
Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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Re: [Elecraft] 40ssb from 7181 to 7185

2011-12-10 Thread Vic K2VCO
I presume you are talking about a K2, correct?

If so, see http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Alert11_WAOF.html

On 12/10/2011 3:28 PM, tom martin wrote:
 good eve.. I have noticed that only from 7.181 to approx 7.185 ish there is 
 distortion of received and transmitted signals, sounds just like rf on both 
 sides. this issue completely goes away either above or below these freqs and 
 does not exsist on any other band. Any input would be appreciated.. My serial 
 # 4750 qrp version. 73  Tom  km4cu 
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-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

2011-12-10 Thread Edward R. Cole
I've been reading the comments about Bird43 accuracy for awhile, but 
the claim that the error is fixed amount for all levels of power 
measured on a given element just does not agree with my 
experience.  (Just about) ALL of my RF power measurements have been 
using the Bird and what I see is a scaled error and not a fixed 
one.  If the full scale reading is off 5% then the quarter power is 
likewise 5% off.  In other words 100w measured with a 100E element at 
432-MHz might actually  be 95w.  If I measure 50w with the same 
element the actual power will be about 47.5w.  25w will be about 
24w.  I'm not saying the accuracy tracts exactly linearly with power 
level but it seems approximately so.

That being said, the accuracy for measurements at under 25% of the 
full power rating of the element is not of much value except as a 
relative number.  I try to chose an element so the meter reads 70% 
full scale for best accuracy and resolution if I am trying to obtain 
absolute power measurements.

If I want better accuracy I use calibrated attenuators with my HP432A 
microwave power meter (10-MHz-18-GHz) which measures -20 to +10 
dBm.  I have two high-power 20-dB coax attenuators: 100w NARDA (good 
to 4-GHz) and 10w Bird (good to 1-GHz).  I measured the Bird on a 
steady 2m signal yesterday and it is exactly 20 dB within the 0.2 dB 
resolution of the HP meter.  For measuring 300w on 1296 I have some 
40 and 50-dB directional couplers from the cellular industry (rated 
for high power).  That permits power measurements to be made with the 
HP power meter (300w = +55 dBm = -50 dB = +5 dBm)  2:1 SWR reflected 
power would be 30w (+ 45 dBm + -40dB = +5 dBm).  But this also 
allows me to check the accuracy of the Bird power meter.  I suspect 
this is good enough for ham radio purposes.


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Editor running under Wine/Linux?

2011-12-10 Thread Nate Bargmann
* On 2011 10 Dec 12:20 -0600, Larry J on Ubuntu 10.04 Desktop wrote:
 lj@lian2:~./wine/dosdevices  ls -al com1
 lrwxrwxrwx 1 lj lj 2011-12-10 10:35  com1 - /dev/ttyS0
 
 My attempts were made under Ubuntu Linux 10.04 and Wine 1.2.2.  Thanks for 
 any help.

I've never had success with serial ports in Wine although it has been
some time since I tried.  Several months ago on another list someone
reported the later beta releases of Wine will work with built-in serial
ports such as yours, but not with USB to serial adapters that I use.

You may wish to give the later Wine 1.3 releases a try:

https://launchpad.net/~ubuntu-wine/+archive/ppa

Unfortunately, I think the Wine developers main focus is on office apps
and games, not hardware access such as serial ports.

73, de Nate N0NB 

-- 

The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true.

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread Robert Mccormack
Hi All,

Many thanks - yes PA NOR was and remains enabled but 12 watts is still maximum 
power available.
This K3/100 was delivering 100 watts before I commenced the CAL procedure - the 
only reason I took the top cover off was to find the FL1 offset, so nothing has 
been disturbed.

I've run out of ideas.G

73, Ken ZL1AIH




--- On Sun, 11/12/11, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem
To: 'Robert Mccormack' zl1...@xtra.co.nz, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, 11, December, 2011, 11:44 AM

Make sure the KPA100 option is installed and enabled. That sounds like it is
not (the basic K3 has a 10 watt transmitter). Suggest you look in the
Owner's manual and perform the procedures to enable and then test and
calibrate the KPA100. Likely that will point to the problem. 

Good luck! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power
cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz
difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power
limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

Any help is appreciated.

73, Ken ZL1AIH.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
Try running the TX Gain calibration again.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/10/2011 5:07 PM, Robert Mccormack wrote:
 Hi All,

 Many thanks - yes PA NOR was and remains enabled but 12 watts is still 
 maximum power available.
 This K3/100 was delivering 100 watts before I commenced the CAL procedure - 
 the only reason I took the top cover off was to find the FL1 offset, so 
 nothing has been disturbed.

 I've run out of ideas.G

 73, Ken ZL1AIH




 --- On Sun, 11/12/11, Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz  wrote:

 From: Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem
 To: 'Robert Mccormack'zl1...@xtra.co.nz, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sunday, 11, December, 2011, 11:44 AM

 Make sure the KPA100 option is installed and enabled. That sounds like it is
 not (the basic K3 has a 10 watt transmitter). Suggest you look in the
 Owner's manual and perform the procedures to enable and then test and
 calibrate the KPA100. Likely that will point to the problem.

 Good luck!

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
 Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:09 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

 While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power
 cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
 Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz
 difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

 Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power
 limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

 Any help is appreciated.

 73, Ken ZL1AIH.


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

2011-12-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
I would be concerned that going from 5/16 inch to 3/16 inch may be too 
much of a difference to assure that the screws have enough thread 
engagement.  I would think going to 1/4 inch would be a better choice.

This sounds like a simple problem, and the real cause is that the holes 
were not tapped deep enough, or that the tap had become worn at and was 
not noticed in time - so several assemblies slipped through with 
inadequately tapped holes.  This may be a problem for a few, and not a 
universal problem.

Yes, the easiest disassembly is to remove the PA unit.  Not a major 
chore, but yes, it is not trivial to get to those screws.

Don W3FPR

On 12/10/2011 6:35 PM, Joe Word wrote:
 Could we get more info on this possible fix, how much disassembly is
 required? Looks like the PA unit must come out?

 Joe  N9VX
 --
 I think I may have solved this problem. One of the other posts mentions that
 the Z-bracket screws are too long and you don't get a tight fit. I changed
 the five screws from 5/16 to 3/16 and did notice a better grip between the
 bracket and the PA assembly. I have run it all evening and haven't heard a
 click or a pop. I even ran the temp up and still nothing. Will it last? I
 don't know, but it seems to have fixed it. The guy who suggested this has
 submitted it to Elecraft for a change. Good luck and lets hear if any of you
 have the same result.

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[Elecraft] Let me build your K2

2011-12-10 Thread Alan Price

I have built more than 320 K2's to date.  Let me build one for you.  You will 
have a new K2 with the options you want.  My prices are reasonable.  Please 
respond off of the reflector. 73AlanW1HYV   
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

2011-12-10 Thread WD0ECO
I just built #570 last week and was concerned with how 'wobbly' the bracket
was with the 5/16 screws not wanting to over-tighten the screws.  But
knowing it should not be that wobbly, I gave a little more torque while
pressing down and they all fully tightened down nicely.  

73, Mitch  

--
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[Elecraft] K2 hollow sound and low power output

2011-12-10 Thread Rick Wheeler
I have a K2 No. 2005 (owned and built since new) with the outboard ATU/100 watt 
setup. I rearranged my shack and have been fighting RFI. I believe it had to do 
with the routing of the power cables. I think (hope that is!) have fixed it. A 
bad Anderson connector (internally loose) on the 100 watt side may have 
contributed to the problem. BUT...

Strange things did (I assumed were RFI caused) happen such as the radio keying 
up itself and when I attempted to tune the radio using the tune button it 
frequently would try to tune using high power (well over 20 watts). 

A couple of things have now happened. Power output is drastically reduced (10 
maybe 20 watts) with a long hello or whistle AND the K2 now has a distinctively 
hollow sound (same with headphones too). The background noise on an empty 
frequency sounds as if it is coming from the end of a 10 foot tube. SSB 
reception is somewhat distorted too. 

I tried a factory reset (4,5,6 and power on) with no result.

Regards,

Rick
K4LX
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 hollow sound and low power output

2011-12-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick,

Did you record ALL your menu settings (including the filter settings) 
before you did the Master Reset, and have you restored all of those menu 
settings after the reset?

If the answer is NO, then you have some calibration and filter setting 
work ahead of you.
Go to my website www.w3fpr.com and take a look at the K2 Dial 
Calibration article - those are the steps you must follow.  But your 
situation is different than most, so before doing anything else, put the 
internal counter probe into TP2 and set the SSB FL1 filter to OP1 (it is 
currently at 2.20 which is the variable filter default) - then set the 
BFOs for LSB and USB FL1 to whatever frequencies produce the passband 
placement with the low frequency corner at approximately 300 Hz.  Once 
that is done, start with the K2 Dial Calibration instructions using WWV 
(or other standard frequency station) to properly adjust C22 on the 
Control Board.

After you get the filters and dial calibration correct, then we can talk 
about how to diagnose your other K2 ills.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/10/2011 7:56 PM, Rick Wheeler wrote:
 I have a K2 No. 2005 (owned and built since new) with the outboard ATU/100 
 watt setup. I rearranged my shack and have been fighting RFI. I believe it 
 had to do with the routing of the power cables. I think (hope that is!) have 
 fixed it. A bad Anderson connector (internally loose) on the 100 watt side 
 may have contributed to the problem. BUT...

 Strange things did (I assumed were RFI caused) happen such as the radio 
 keying up itself and when I attempted to tune the radio using the tune button 
 it frequently would try to tune using high power (well over 20 watts).

 A couple of things have now happened. Power output is drastically reduced (10 
 maybe 20 watts) with a long hello or whistle AND the K2 now has a 
 distinctively hollow sound (same with headphones too). The background noise 
 on an empty frequency sounds as if it is coming from the end of a 10 foot 
 tube. SSB reception is somewhat distorted too.

 I tried a factory reset (4,5,6 and power on) with no result.

 Regards,

 Rick
 K4LX
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2011-12-10 Thread Phillip Shepard

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (12/11/11) at 1800Z on
14.3035 MHz +/- QRM. I will be net control from western Oregon, and we'll
try relays to pull in the stations that I can't hear.

See you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 hollow sound and low power output

2011-12-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick,

It sounds to me that once you get over the menu setting situation and 
have all your proper options set into the menu, you should then look at 
the KPA100 wattmeter circuits to discover what the TUNE problems are - 
the resolution of that question may cure other problems.

I am headed for California in the morning to visit with the XYL's family 
and to attend the Elecraft Christmas party. Pardon me if I do not 
respond to requests - this is vacation time for me, and I may or may not 
have my email with me.  I will be back home Dec 21 and handle any 
requests at that time (and also write the bills from the vacation :-( .

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/10/2011 7:56 PM, Rick Wheeler wrote:
 I have a K2 No. 2005 (owned and built since new) with the outboard ATU/100 
 watt setup. I rearranged my shack and have been fighting RFI. I believe it 
 had to do with the routing of the power cables. I think (hope that is!) have 
 fixed it. A bad Anderson connector (internally loose) on the 100 watt side 
 may have contributed to the problem. BUT...

 Strange things did (I assumed were RFI caused) happen such as the radio 
 keying up itself and when I attempted to tune the radio using the tune button 
 it frequently would try to tune using high power (well over 20 watts).

 A couple of things have now happened. Power output is drastically reduced (10 
 maybe 20 watts) with a long hello or whistle AND the K2 now has a 
 distinctively hollow sound (same with headphones too). The background noise 
 on an empty frequency sounds as if it is coming from the end of a 10 foot 
 tube. SSB reception is somewhat distorted too.

 I tried a factory reset (4,5,6 and power on) with no result.

 Regards,

 Rick
 K4LX
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Jim Wiley
May not have been your radio at all, but instead might have been a 
surge protected multiple AC outlet box.  I have a few Tripp-Lite 
Isobar outlet boxes, and if they catch a surge, they will make a 
VERY loud bang!  Fooled me for a while until I figured out what was 
happening.  Sounds like some has let off a .22 rifle shot under the 
operating bench. Dissipating the energy from a big surge take some 
doing, and the result is often a very loud bang. Might that have been 
what you heard?


- Jim, KL7CC
 


Keith Heimbold wrote:
 Wayne-

 I am a bit embarrassed about something that just happened in my shack because 
 i think i just blew up my external 6m preamp.  

 I was putting in line my six meter preamp and using a db15 Y connector with 
 my Yaesu Quadra amp on the other connector. I was not transmitting and just 
 getting it connected and then I heard a super loud pop.

 I disconnected eveything and then tested the transceiver and the amp.  The K3 
 is fine but the amp was locked. I turned off the amp and restarted it and and 
 it was fine.  I reconnected the preamp and put the antenna in direct line 
 with the K3 disconnecting it from the amp. The preamp when energizes reduces 
 the signal strength. I think the pop came from the preamp. It is hard for me 
 to isolate the noise source because I had my headset on. For sure it was 
 working for about 20 seconds and then the pop occurred. It scared my dogs and 
 myself it was so loud.

 I am not sure how I can test the preamp to see if it indeed blown. Any 
 thoughts would be appreciated.

 Thanks,

 Keith
 AG6AZ

 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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[Elecraft] FS: K3-100 # 5662 with ATU, 400 Hz, USB and Heil mic - brand new on builder's desk @ $ 2, 300 shipped to CONUS

2011-12-10 Thread Chris Wagner
Local pick up outside Tucson AZ in Vail. I paid  $ 2,600 and never took
delivery.

73, Chris KF6VCI
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[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint Tuesday night!

2011-12-10 Thread NAQCC
NAQCC Sprint Tuesday night!

Our December sprint is this coming Tuesday evening local time (Dec 13, EST - 
8:30-10:30PM, CST - 7:30-9:30PM, MST - 6:30-8:30PM, PST - 5:30-7:30PM), which 
translates as Wednesday Dec 14, 0130-0330Z in all cases.

I will refer you to the proper URL:

http://naqcc.info/sprint201112.html

There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and other important 
information.

Certificates: SWA (simple wire antennas) certificates by call area, VE and DX. 
A Certificate for top score in the GAIN antenna category. Finally there is one 
more award - a certificate to the highest score from a first-time participant.

Prizes: A prize of a set of bug/paddle handles or a K1/K2 knob insert donated 
by master woodworker Gregg WB8LZG is awarded for each sprint to the winner of a 
random drawing among all participants. Previous winners are not eligible.

This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, 
straight key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); 
but you must use QRP power levels to compete for awards.

Added Note: Our NAQCC European Chapter Sprint will take place Wednesday, 
December 14 from 18:00 to 20:00 UTC.  Full information on their website at: 
naqcc-eu.org/

If you are not already a member of NAQCC... membership is FREE!  Now is your 
chance to join the largest QRP CW Club in the world!!  We currently have 5,787 
members in: All 50 States - 9 VE Provinces - 90 Countries.  Just sign up on the 
NAQCC website (http://naqcc.info/) and you will receive a handsome certificate, 
with your membership number which is good for life.

Come join us and have a real good time!

72/73 de Dave VA3RJ
NAQCC #0004

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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
Thanks Jim. The preamp is still not functioning but that does describe the 
sound.

Keith 

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 10, 2011, at 6:04 PM, Jim Wiley jwi...@alaska.net wrote:

 May not have been your radio at all, but instead might have been a surge 
 protected multiple AC outlet box.  I have a few Tripp-Lite Isobar outlet 
 boxes, and if they catch a surge, they will make a VERY loud bang!  Fooled 
 me for a while until I figured out what was happening.  Sounds like some has 
 let off a .22 rifle shot under the operating bench. Dissipating the energy 
 from a big surge take some doing, and the result is often a very loud bang. 
 Might that have been what you heard?
 
 
 - Jim, KL7CC
 
 
 Keith Heimbold wrote:
 Wayne-
 
 I am a bit embarrassed about something that just happened in my shack 
 because i think i just blew up my external 6m preamp.  
 I was putting in line my six meter preamp and using a db15 Y connector with 
 my Yaesu Quadra amp on the other connector. I was not transmitting and just 
 getting it connected and then I heard a super loud pop.
 
 I disconnected eveything and then tested the transceiver and the amp.  The 
 K3 is fine but the amp was locked. I turned off the amp and restarted it and 
 and it was fine.  I reconnected the preamp and put the antenna in direct 
 line with the K3 disconnecting it from the amp. The preamp when energizes 
 reduces the signal strength. I think the pop came from the preamp. It is 
 hard for me to isolate the noise source because I had my headset on. For 
 sure it was working for about 20 seconds and then the pop occurred. It 
 scared my dogs and myself it was so loud.
 
 I am not sure how I can test the preamp to see if it indeed blown. Any 
 thoughts would be appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Keith
 AG6AZ
 
 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Alan Slusher
If this is the case one would need to open the outlet box and replace the 
exploded MOVs.
Or purchase a new outlet strip, open it up, and install an MOV across each 
pair of wires (three in all).  Try Radio Shack.

Cheers,

Alan V31FA

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Wiley jwi...@alaska.net
To: Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise


 May not have been your radio at all, but instead might have been a
 surge protected multiple AC outlet box.  I have a few Tripp-Lite
 Isobar outlet boxes, and if they catch a surge, they will make a
 VERY loud bang!  Fooled me for a while until I figured out what was
 happening.  Sounds like some has let off a .22 rifle shot under the
 operating bench. Dissipating the energy from a big surge take some
 doing, and the result is often a very loud bang. Might that have been
 what you heard?


 - Jim, KL7CC



 Keith Heimbold wrote:
 Wayne-

 I am a bit embarrassed about something that just happened in my shack 
 because i think i just blew up my external 6m preamp.

 I was putting in line my six meter preamp and using a db15 Y connector 
 with my Yaesu Quadra amp on the other connector. I was not transmitting 
 and just getting it connected and then I heard a super loud pop.

 I disconnected eveything and then tested the transceiver and the amp. 
 The K3 is fine but the amp was locked. I turned off the amp and restarted 
 it and and it was fine.  I reconnected the preamp and put the antenna in 
 direct line with the K3 disconnecting it from the amp. The preamp when 
 energizes reduces the signal strength. I think the pop came from the 
 preamp. It is hard for me to isolate the noise source because I had my 
 headset on. For sure it was working for about 20 seconds and then the pop 
 occurred. It scared my dogs and myself it was so loud.

 I am not sure how I can test the preamp to see if it indeed blown. Any 
 thoughts would be appreciated.

 Thanks,

 Keith
 AG6AZ

 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
 __
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[Elecraft] 240-Volt Operation of KPA500

2011-12-10 Thread N4CW
How do I go about changing from 120-Volt to 240-Volt operation of my  
KPA500? I hate to ruin that really
nice power cable by chopping off the plug and substituting a 15-Amp  
240-Volt plug; but if that's the way to
do it, I'll get another cable and that way I'll have both AC Voltage (USA)  
capabilites. 
Of course I understand about the fuses and properly setting the fuse  
assembly to reflect the input voltage!
Any caveats from anybody who has already done this?
73, Bert N4CW
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Alan Slusher
The Radio Shack part number for the MOVs is: 276-0568.
Three wires in the outlet strip. Solder an MOV across each pair of the three 
wires.

Alan V31FA


- Original Message - 

 If this is the case one would need to open the outlet box and replace the
 exploded MOVs.
 Or purchase a new outlet strip, open it up, and install an MOV across each
 pair of wires (three in all).  Try Radio Shack.

 Cheers,

 Alan V31FA

 - Original Message - 
 From: Jim Wiley jwi...@alaska.net
 To: Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com
 Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 8:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise


 May not have been your radio at all, but instead might have been a
 surge protected multiple AC outlet box.  I have a few Tripp-Lite
 Isobar outlet boxes, and if they catch a surge, they will make a
 VERY loud bang!  Fooled me for a while until I figured out what was
 happening.  Sounds like some has let off a .22 rifle shot under the
 operating bench. Dissipating the energy from a big surge take some
 doing, and the result is often a very loud bang. Might that have been
 what you heard?



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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
Thanks, Alan. Appreciate it greatly.

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 10, 2011, at 7:37 PM, Alan Slusher aslus...@caribsurf.com wrote:

 The Radio Shack part number for the MOVs is: 276-0568.
 Three wires in the outlet strip. Solder an MOV across each pair of the three 
 wires.
 
 Alan V31FA
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 If this is the case one would need to open the outlet box and replace the
 exploded MOVs.
 Or purchase a new outlet strip, open it up, and install an MOV across each
 pair of wires (three in all).  Try Radio Shack.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Alan V31FA
 
 - Original Message - From: Jim Wiley jwi...@alaska.net
 To: Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com
 Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 8:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise
 
 
 May not have been your radio at all, but instead might have been a
 surge protected multiple AC outlet box.  I have a few Tripp-Lite
 Isobar outlet boxes, and if they catch a surge, they will make a
 VERY loud bang!  Fooled me for a while until I figured out what was
 happening.  Sounds like some has let off a .22 rifle shot under the
 operating bench. Dissipating the energy from a big surge take some
 doing, and the result is often a very loud bang. Might that have been
 what you heard?
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] 240-Volt Operation of KPA500

2011-12-10 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
You might be able to purchase a cord with the 240v USA end on it and the 
molded amp plug on the other end.  There are numerous types of 220/240 
outlets.  The other option is buying the cord from Elecraft and cutting 
the end off.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/10/2011 8:36 PM, n...@aol.com wrote:
 How do I go about changing from 120-Volt to 240-Volt operation of my
 KPA500? I hate to ruin that really
 nice power cable by chopping off the plug and substituting a 15-Amp
 240-Volt plug; but if that's the way to
 do it, I'll get another cable and that way I'll have both AC Voltage (USA)
 capabilites.
 Of course I understand about the fuses and properly setting the fuse
 assembly to reflect the input voltage!
 Any caveats from anybody who has already done this?
 73, Bert N4CW
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Re: [Elecraft] 240-Volt Operation of KPA500

2011-12-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Elecraft sells a power cord with the Schuko 240 volt connector if that's
what you need. 

Also, note that the cord is a standard 3-wire type used on many computers
and other electronics. I bet you can get one at just about any electrical
supply to put whatever plug you need on. 

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-


How do I go about changing from 120-Volt to 240-Volt operation of my  
KPA500? I hate to ruin that really
nice power cable by chopping off the plug and substituting a 15-Amp  
240-Volt plug; but if that's the way to
do it, I'll get another cable and that way I'll have both AC Voltage (USA)  
capabilites. 
Of course I understand about the fuses and properly setting the fuse  
assembly to reflect the input voltage!
Any caveats from anybody who has already done this?
73, Bert N4CW

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
This is a bit more invasive, but a few earlier KPA100 modules had a problem
with the interface connector to the main RF board that carriers the +13V to
the KPA500 itself. The pin corroded and heated and, in a few cases, burned.
I believe the current KPA500's have gold plated connectors. Of course, that
removed all power from the 100 watt amp. 

I'd remove the KPA500 module and inspect the connector. You can reach the
screws from the top (careful - don't drop the screws or lock washers - they
can be a chore to retrieve if you don't have a small magnet). Pull the
module off and look closely at the multipin connector to see if there's any
sign of overheating or discoloration. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 4:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

Hi All,

Many thanks - yes PA NOR was and remains enabled but 12 watts is still
maximum power available.
This K3/100 was delivering 100 watts before I commenced the CAL procedure -
the only reason I took the top cover off was to find the FL1 offset, so
nothing has been disturbed.

I've run out of ideas.G

73, Ken ZL1AIH




--- On Sun, 11/12/11, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem
To: 'Robert Mccormack' zl1...@xtra.co.nz, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, 11, December, 2011, 11:44 AM

Make sure the KPA100 option is installed and enabled. That sounds like it is
not (the basic K3 has a 10 watt transmitter). Suggest you look in the
Owner's manual and perform the procedures to enable and then test and
calibrate the KPA100. Likely that will point to the problem. 

Good luck! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power
cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz
difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power
limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

Any help is appreciated.

73, Ken ZL1AIH.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2011-12-10 Thread kevinr
Good Evening,
 After a long string of sunny days winter has returned.  As I was 
driving into town for supplies I first saw mist falling.  Up here it had 
been fog while below it was clearer.  When I was near the valley floor 
hoar frost was riming the fir trees.  At the lowest elevations the 
fields were covered with frost.  Tonight there will be some snow with 
dropping temperatures.  Nothing like the single digit temperatures of 
the upper Midwest but my spate of fine weather has come to an end.

 However, propagation has gotten better over the last month.  It is 
fun to see where I can hear.  It is interesting to catch a new call from 
a new country with each spin of the dial.  Now that the sunny weather 
has changed to grey and cold it is nice to have an indoor activity which 
allows me to visit so many places.  Trying to explain ice and snow to 
someone from the tropics is always a treat.  Discussing the many 
varieties of snow is simply not possible.

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)

Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 5 PM PST)  7045 kHz

   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-





   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread Mike Fatchett W0MU
I think he means the KPA100.

On 12/10/11 9:06 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 This is a bit more invasive, but a few earlier KPA100 modules had a problem
 with the interface connector to the main RF board that carriers the +13V to
 the KPA500 itself. The pin corroded and heated and, in a few cases, burned.
 I believe the current KPA500's have gold plated connectors. Of course, that
 removed all power from the 100 watt amp.

 I'd remove the KPA500 module and inspect the connector. You can reach the
 screws from the top (careful - don't drop the screws or lock washers - they
 can be a chore to retrieve if you don't have a small magnet). Pull the
 module off and look closely at the multipin connector to see if there's any
 sign of overheating or discoloration.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
 Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 4:07 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

 Hi All,

 Many thanks - yes PA NOR was and remains enabled but 12 watts is still
 maximum power available.
 This K3/100 was delivering 100 watts before I commenced the CAL procedure -
 the only reason I took the top cover off was to find the FL1 offset, so
 nothing has been disturbed.

 I've run out of ideas.G

 73, Ken ZL1AIH




 --- On Sun, 11/12/11, Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz  wrote:

 From: Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem
 To: 'Robert Mccormack'zl1...@xtra.co.nz, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sunday, 11, December, 2011, 11:44 AM

 Make sure the KPA100 option is installed and enabled. That sounds like it is
 not (the basic K3 has a 10 watt transmitter). Suggest you look in the
 Owner's manual and perform the procedures to enable and then test and
 calibrate the KPA100. Likely that will point to the problem.

 Good luck!

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
 Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:09 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

 While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power
 cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
 Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz
 difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

 Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power
 limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

 Any help is appreciated.

 73, Ken ZL1AIH.


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Re: [Elecraft] 240-Volt Operation of KPA500

2011-12-10 Thread Anthony DeBiasi
Phil AD5X posted some info several months ago about a good inexpensive 
source of a 240 v cable.C13615P-6 power cord from www.cables.com $12.95 
plus shipping.

..Tony K2SG





-Original Message-


How do I go about changing from 120-Volt to 240-Volt operation of my
KPA500? I hate to ruin that really
nice power cable by chopping off the plug and substituting a 15-Amp
240-Volt plug; but if that's the way to
do it, I'll get another cable and that way I'll have both AC Voltage (USA)
capabilites.
Of course I understand about the fuses and properly setting the fuse
assembly to reflect the input voltage!
Any caveats from anybody who has already done this?
73, Bert N4CW

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

2011-12-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
AARGH Yes. I'm sitting here working on a KPA500 project. Sri about that. 

Ron 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Fatchett W0MU
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 8:29 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

I think he means the KPA100.

On 12/10/11 9:06 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 This is a bit more invasive, but a few earlier KPA100 modules had a
problem
 with the interface connector to the main RF board that carriers the +13V
to
 the KPA500 itself. The pin corroded and heated and, in a few cases,
burned.
 I believe the current KPA500's have gold plated connectors. Of course,
that
 removed all power from the 100 watt amp.

 I'd remove the KPA500 module and inspect the connector. You can reach the
 screws from the top (careful - don't drop the screws or lock washers -
they
 can be a chore to retrieve if you don't have a small magnet). Pull the
 module off and look closely at the multipin connector to see if there's
any
 sign of overheating or discoloration.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
 Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 4:07 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

 Hi All,

 Many thanks - yes PA NOR was and remains enabled but 12 watts is still
 maximum power available.
 This K3/100 was delivering 100 watts before I commenced the CAL procedure
-
 the only reason I took the top cover off was to find the FL1 offset, so
 nothing has been disturbed.

 I've run out of ideas.G

 73, Ken ZL1AIH




 --- On Sun, 11/12/11, Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz  wrote:

 From: Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem
 To: 'Robert Mccormack'zl1...@xtra.co.nz, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sunday, 11, December, 2011, 11:44 AM

 Make sure the KPA100 option is installed and enabled. That sounds like it
is
 not (the basic K3 has a 10 watt transmitter). Suggest you look in the
 Owner's manual and perform the procedures to enable and then test and
 calibrate the KPA100. Likely that will point to the problem.

 Good luck!

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
 Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:09 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

 While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the
power
 cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
 Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz
 difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

 Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power
 limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

 Any help is appreciated.

 73, Ken ZL1AIH.


 __
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 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

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 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Jim Brown
On 12/10/2011 6:02 PM, Jim Wiley wrote:
   I have a few Tripp-Lite
 Isobar outlet boxes, and if they catch a surge, they will make a
 VERY loud bang!

That very loud bang is almost certainly the MOV failing (and they fail 
destructively).

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

2011-12-10 Thread Al Lorona
I followed the link, Ian. I think it's amazing that an *antenna tuner*:

1. has to be plugged in to AC power to work
2. has cooling fans
3. runs the Linux operating system

I am just old enough to find that somewhere between humourous and preposterous.

Al  W6LX





 Alpha are working on a very similar auto-ATU but their 
 proposed schematic shows exactly how 'broken' this concept is:
 http://www.rfconcepts.com/PRODUCTS/New-Products/Alpha4040 

-- 
73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

2011-12-10 Thread Matthew Pitts
I think this design is summed up nicely by the term overkill.

Matthew Pitts
N8OHU

Sent from my Wireless Device

-Original Message-
From: Al Lorona alor...@sbcglobal.net
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2011 20:46:11 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

I followed the link, Ian. I think it's amazing that an *antenna tuner*:

1. has to be plugged in to AC power to work
2. has cooling fans
3. runs the Linux operating system

I am just old enough to find that somewhere between humourous and preposterous.

Al  W6LX





 Alpha are working on a very similar auto-ATU but their 
 proposed schematic shows exactly how 'broken' this concept is:
 http://www.rfconcepts.com/PRODUCTS/New-Products/Alpha4040 

-- 
73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem solved

2011-12-10 Thread Robert Mccormack
Hi Ron,

Bingo!   This K3/100 has gold-plated pins - no corrosion but I sprayed them 
with a little 'De-Oxit', re-seated the 100w module and now all is well..

I'll send the cigar by courier.

73 and thanks again,

Ken ZL1AIH



--- On Sun, 11/12/11, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem
To: 'Robert Mccormack' zl1...@xtra.co.nz, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, 11, December, 2011, 5:06 PM

This is a bit more invasive, but a few earlier KPA100 modules had a problem
with the interface connector to the main RF board that carriers the +13V to
the KPA500 itself. The pin corroded and heated and, in a few cases, burned.
I believe the current KPA500's have gold plated connectors. Of course, that
removed all power from the 100 watt amp. 

I'd remove the KPA500 module and inspect the connector. You can reach the
screws from the top (careful - don't drop the screws or lock washers - they
can be a chore to retrieve if you don't have a small magnet). Pull the
module off and look closely at the multipin connector to see if there's any
sign of overheating or discoloration. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 4:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

Hi All,

Many thanks - yes PA NOR was and remains enabled but 12 watts is still
maximum power available.
This K3/100 was delivering 100 watts before I commenced the CAL procedure -
the only reason I took the top cover off was to find the FL1 offset, so
nothing has been disturbed.

I've run out of ideas.G

73, Ken ZL1AIH




--- On Sun, 11/12/11, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem
To: 'Robert Mccormack' zl1...@xtra.co.nz, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, 11, December, 2011, 11:44 AM

Make sure the KPA100 option is installed and enabled. That sounds like it is
not (the basic K3 has a 10 watt transmitter). Suggest you look in the
Owner's manual and perform the procedures to enable and then test and
calibrate the KPA100. Likely that will point to the problem. 

Good luck! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Mccormack
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 2:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 - High power problem

While checking a K3/100 #4114 on behalf of SK estate, I find that the power
cannot be set higher than 12 watts.
Operation was normal until I commenced a CAL procedure to correct a 2kHz
difference between 'indicated' and transmitted frequency.

Checked all the menu functions but can't find any reference to power
limitation - searched the archives but no luck.

Any help is appreciated.

73, Ken ZL1AIH.


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Re: [Elecraft] 240-Volt Operation of KPA500

2011-12-10 Thread Jim Rhodes
Back when they were still in beta I believe someone posted a source for
that cord with the 15amp 240 volt plug. Check  cables.com  I know they
have some 240 volt nema cables.

Jim K0XU Sent from my Xoom tablet
On Dec 10, 2011 9:37 PM, n...@aol.com wrote:

 How do I go about changing from 120-Volt to 240-Volt operation of my
 KPA500? I hate to ruin that really
 nice power cable by chopping off the plug and substituting a 15-Amp
 240-Volt plug; but if that's the way to
 do it, I'll get another cable and that way I'll have both AC Voltage (USA)
 capabilites.
 Of course I understand about the fuses and properly setting the fuse
 assembly to reflect the input voltage!
 Any caveats from anybody who has already done this?
 73, Bert N4CW
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack equipment noise

2011-12-10 Thread Keith Heimbold
Thanks for the information. I will make sure to do a full diagnostic tomorrow 
on the power supplies and strips.

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 10, 2011, at 8:42 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:

 On 12/10/2011 6:02 PM, Jim Wiley wrote:
  I have a few Tripp-Lite
 Isobar outlet boxes, and if they catch a surge, they will make a
 VERY loud bang!
 
 That very loud bang is almost certainly the MOV failing (and they fail 
 destructively).
 
 73, Jim K9YC
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