[Elecraft] K2 Amp for KX3

2011-12-31 Thread David Andrews
I know that the 100 watt amp for the K2 can't be driven by just any rig, but
can it work with the KX3? Does anyone have any bright ideas?

 

Thanks

 

David G4CWB

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Some Year End Thoughts about Elecraft and Innovative Radio Manufactures of the Past

2011-12-31 Thread Monty Shultes
While large organizations can be productive, really new ideas tend to come from 
one person's motivation and insight.  Elecraft is the product of two such 
people, each with their expertise.  I hope that one-two punch provides enough 
satisfaction for them to continue.  From the 4 K2s built to my current K3 and 
KX1, the satisfaction of ownership has been outstanding.  KX3 order is on the 
list.  Anyone need a 706 MKII?

Monty K2DLJ

On Dec 30, 2011, at 8:56 PM, Bill wrote:

 I just finished reading an article about some companies that
 may not or will not be around for 2012.  For example, SEARS has been in 
 business for 125 years but they are
 closing hundreds of stores. 
 Because of the current economy, the list of failing
 businesses in this country is long and growing longer each day.
 This got me thinking of some of the innovative radio
 manufactures and equipment of the past.  The
 Central Electronics  100V was one of the
 first no-tune transmitters. Pretty cool for the 1950’s.  The Collins S Line 
 and KWM-380 were pricey but
 nice.  How about the Signal One Milspec
 1030.  I believe Signal One was a company
 that was about the same size as Elecraft.
 Some of the companies such as Collins are still in business making
 Avionics but sadly they no longer make Amateur Radio equipment.
 How lucky we are to be able to jump on the web and order some
 of the latest technology rigs from Elecraft such as the KX3. I believe that 
 Elecraft
 rigs are high in performance but still very reasonable in price when compared
 to the competition. Good job guys!
 It takes more than innovative thinking and engineering expertise
 to run a business in the state of California.  There are expensive business 
 licenses and permits, costly insurance, environmental
 restrictions, high business taxes, and the list goes on.  We even get “Cap 
 and Trade” starting in 2012.  Even though small businesses provide
 many of the jobs in this state the climate is almost hostile towards them 
 having
 any kind of success.  I try to keep these
 things in mind before bugging Wayne about the KX3 manual. 
 That reminds me….  When
 can I order that new display board for the P3  J
 Thanks to everyone at Elecraft and Happy New Year to all.
 73,
 Bill – K6WLM 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB audio distorted. Realignment, MIC gain mod etc.

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Andy,

I assume you have the K2/100 rather than the K2/10.  The KPA100 can 
couple into the KSB2 board giving audio distortion.  Remove the right 
side panel and tuck the ribbon cable and speaker cable up into the space 
between the KPA100 and the top of the Control Board.

Mods to increase the mic gain have been several - change the value of 
resistor R14 is the simplest, adding a mic preamp is a bit more 
involved, and for those who want a bit better performance there is the 
KI6WX SSB Increased RF Gain mod.  If the latter is installed in a 
K2/100, changes to the KSB2 ALC circuit should also be made - if you 
have a transistor added to your KSB2 near U5 (either on the top or 
bottom of the board), then you have that mod installed - I can give you 
the ALC changes that should be made.

Since you have an older KPA100, do you have the shield up to date?  You 
should have a shield on the speaker magnet, there should be clips on the 
shield and there should be a direct connection between the top of the 
shield and the SO-239 jack (that connection is usually made with 2 
solder lugs connected together).

73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/31/2011 2:47 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote:
 Hi

 I have SN 2555 and have exclusively used it for CW. Now, I am trying to use 
 it for SSB, but I am getting reports of distortion. Even with SSBA 1 and SSBC 
 1:1. If I speak really quietly, with microphone about 10 inches away, the 
 distortion is manageable but not fully gone. ALC seems to go a couple of LEDS 
 before it settles down to 1 LED on 40m. This happens for both MH2 and the 
 Heil Pro-Set Plus!.  I believe, I did some mods years ago to increase MIC 
 gain, but I have a hard time to find the information now on the website to 
 double check.

 What would be the mostly likely reason my audio is distorted?
 I scanned the manuals but there is no procedure to align the MIC gain 
 anywhere.  How can this be done?
 The rig is 7-8 years old, I am considering spending an evening and realigning 
 everything.  Is this something that could fix this issue?
 If my memory is right, and there was a MIC gain mod at some point, can 
 someone send me a copy/details, so I can investigate if I have it and 
 possibly undo it?

 Thanks
 And 73, Andy, KU7T

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Amp for KX3

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
No, the KPA100 needs K2 specific signals to operate properly.  Those 
specific signal lines are not provided by the KX3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 4:20 AM, David Andrews wrote:
 I know that the 100 watt amp for the K2 can't be driven by just any rig, but
 can it work with the KX3? Does anyone have any bright ideas?


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vs FT817 (comparing apples+oranges)

2011-12-31 Thread Dyarnes
Hi All,

I read the comments by Doug, KR2Q, (and Wayne's response as well), and while 
I tend to agree with much of Doug's analysis, I have a serious question. 
Doug infers that the outstanding specs for the KX3 are superfluous when 
operating in the field.  I honestly don't understand his point.  I suspect 
I'm missing something or not connecting the dots right.

For one thing, when I go to the field, which tends to be fairly often, I 
usually have better antennas there than at home.  That doesn't say anything 
very good about my home setup, but I have antenna restrictions and I live in 
the desert.  Setting up a decent antenna in the field isn't necessarily that 
difficult, unless you are in a big hurry.  Trees or not, I can have a fairly 
decent dipole at 40 feet in about 5 minutes.  Alternatively, I can use 
something like an end fed half wave, or a vertical arrangement of some sort. 
If I have trees, so much the better.  I also have a Buddipole system, but I 
tend to use it as a Buddistick, which works very well.  In any event, 
whether I'm at home or out camping, I find plenty of reason to appreciate a 
better radio.

The late, but welcome, arrival of our current sunspot cycle has certainly 
enhanced activity on the bands.  Signals are often very LOUD, and not that 
far apart.  I agree that contests and pile-ups exacerbate things, but it 
seems to me that there isn't that much difference in conditions regardless 
of where I operate.

It is certainly understandable that folks would immediately ponder the 
trail friendly qualities of the KX3.  Anything small and light leads you 
to that as an option.  However, I don't think Elecraft approached this 
design with that as their main objective.  Rather I think they were trying 
to enhance versatility.  In other words, trying to make a small version of 
the K3, and as close to a K3 as they could get.  I'm remembering something 
from a number of years back, when the KX1 was fairly new.  I commented that 
I had even operated my KX1 while sitting in bed.  Wayne responded that he 
had done that too!  So, maybe what Wayne really was trying to do was come up 
with a way to take his K3 to the bedroom!  Hi.

Anyway, I don't think the challenge was just to make a smaller radio.  I 
think it was making a really good radio smaller.  To do the former only 
trumps a few alternative radios.  To do the latter trumps a bunch of other 
radios--at least in versatility.  That was, in my view, the real 
objective--versatility.  Maybe that's not exactly the word they had on the 
flip chart during the brain storming sessions about designing the KX3, but I 
tend to think it at least partially describes their objective.  For a long 
time I've wished I could be a fly on the wall when they discuss this 
stuff!

Dave W7AQK




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vs FT817 (comparing apples+oranges)

2011-12-31 Thread Bill W4ZV

David Yarnes wrote
 
 For a long 
 time I've wished I could be a fly on the wall when they discuss this 
 stuff!
 

http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg99836.html

73,  Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] Have orders filled up yet? Is there a cap?

2011-12-31 Thread Steve KC8QVO
Keith,

The way I am going to do mine is get the rig kit, CW key, and charger
option. I am waiting for the 2m module so I will have to do a second order
when that is available regardless. Once I have the rig and get to use it a
bit I will adjust the other features at that time. Some other options I am
looking at are the roofing filters and tuner, for example. The biggie for
me, though, is the 2m module... no two ways about that one! 

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Re: [Elecraft] Have orders filled up yet? Is there a cap?

2011-12-31 Thread Keith Heimbold
Steve,

The roofing filters and internal battery pack are definitely in the first 
purchase. The mic and key are also definitely of in the mix.

I will definitely without a doubt be getting the remote rig option for the K3 
and also the 100W amp when that comes out. I am planning to use this as my 
travel rig as I am on the road a ton about 100% weekly as a business and IT 
consultant. This will be nice when I can't drive my truck to the client 
assignments. I will need to figure out a travel pack / hard case for it. 

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 31, 2011, at 7:26 AM, Steve KC8QVO kc8...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Keith,
 
 The way I am going to do mine is get the rig kit, CW key, and charger
 option. I am waiting for the 2m module so I will have to do a second order
 when that is available regardless. Once I have the rig and get to use it a
 bit I will adjust the other features at that time. Some other options I am
 looking at are the roofing filters and tuner, for example. The biggie for
 me, though, is the 2m module... no two ways about that one! 
 
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Have-orders-filled-up-yet-Is-there-a-cap-tp7139304p7140636.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Have orders filled up yet? Is there a cap?

2011-12-31 Thread Steve KC8QVO
I don't have a K3, but it is a great rig. That will be neat to see how the
interface works between them. 

My portable rig for years has been the FT-857D. When I flew to Florida last
month I threw both the K2 and the FT-857D in. If I had to do it over at the
time I would have only taken the FT-857D, too much hassle and extra space
with both.

The KX3 will take the place of the FT-857D. I am a backpacker too and really
like taking a rig along, although I haven't always. Last trip I just took an
HT and that irritated me but at least I could catch the weather reports. As
long as the 2m module receives up in to the 162 range for NOAA weather that
would be great. I could confine my trail and airplane-friendly rigs to just
the KX3 saving space and weight. 

I put a note out to the HFPack yahoo group that orders were open. My guess
is everyone in that group that is/would be interested already has ordered
one, but it might generate a few more orders :) 

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[Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread W2bpi1
Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the  
shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vs FT817 (comparing apples+oranges)

2011-12-31 Thread Steve KC8QVO
I do agree with some of what Doug says. I see the numbers side with the
pricing - you are more than double the original price Doug outlined with a
KX3. The FT-817ND now is in the $700+ range. Going off that number a base
KX3 is $300 more - not a double in price. 

Regarding the apples to oranges comment - I entirely agree. In fact, I
find it hard to compare the KX3 to a lot of radios because there is so much
under the cover (and on the cover). My potable radio for years has been the
FT-857D. That is my every day rig in the mobile (160-6m, 2m, 70cm) and is my
grab'n'go rig. I have a K2 also and that is nice when car-camping, but at
that point the FT-857D is along too - it has VHF/UHF capabilities the K2
does not. Adding in the 2m module to the KX3 will let me grab that instead
of un-installing the FT-857D. I am anxious to throw it in the backpack and
head out to the Appalachians for a few days. My pack weight will drop
substantially and my back will thank me! 

For what the FT-817 is - it is a neat little rig. That satisfied a niche for
years in the HFPack community. It is really hard to knock the useability of
the rig. For those that currently have them maybe, as Doug alludes to, it
will remain a staple in their portable arsenals. My FT-857D will be a staple
in my arsenal in some instances I would assume, but there is some
versatility in that rig that the KX3 will replace, no doubt. At the time I
got the FT-857D I considered other rigs - and the FT-817 was one of them.
Where I use my FT-857D most of the time is as my every-day mobile rig, and
to that point there still is no radio on the market that satisfies that
niche to the same capacity - the FT-857D, as heavy as it is, still has made
its way in to my backpack for trips around southern Ohio and the Appalachian
mountains. It is compact and the receive current is low (500-550mA = low
enough to run on batteries). Try that with an IC-7000 (one of the better
mobile rigs on the market). That rig's current consumption is at least 2
amps (2000mA) and it is also heavier. Or, conversely, try putting an FT-817
in the mobile... Doesn't work too well - the faceplate doesn't remote and
the power output is low. 

Who knows - maybe the KX3 will make it in to my mobile station with the
KXPA100... Then the FT-857D for VHF/UHF and the KX3 for HF? HI. The
possibilities are endless. 

We are all entitled to our own opinions. What the base of those opinions is
can vary, but we're the ones that choose our tools. What we want our tools
to do or have change, but guess what? They all do the same job. All radios
let you communicate. Do you want CW only? SSB only? Both? HF only? A few
bands or all bands? Is VHF important to you? Do you travel? Do you operate
from home? 

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Dale Putnam

Sssshhh don't tell them, they are supposed to radiate

I've got three runs, into my shack, and as long as the current in each side of 
the line is balanced, the radiation is minimal...
and of course installation concerns are observed, with spacing away from metal 
and the like.. 

They work fine... balanced.

Good Luck and Happy New Year!!

--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy

 From: w2b...@aol.com
 Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2011 11:25:54 -0500
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] open wire feeders
 
 Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the  
 shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100
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Re: [Elecraft] Have orders filled up yet? Is there a cap?

2011-12-31 Thread Mike Schwendeman

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Open wire (or 'parallel conductor') feed lines connected to a reasonably
balanced load do NOT radiate (or receive noise, etc.) 

The currents, hence the electric fields, around each wire are opposite and
equal at all points, even though the line may have a high SWR. Those equal
and opposite fields cancel, meaning no radiation from the line nor can an
external RF field induce a current in the line.

Note that a perfect open wire line has two attributes. Both conductors are
in the same physical space -  a physical impossibility - and the load is
perfectly balanced - physically more possible but not common. 

However, spacing the wires a small distance apart (in terms of wavelength)
and a reasonable amount of balance in the load still results in a
transmission line that is as free from radiation or unwanted pickup as many
coaxial lines. 

Note that coaxial line itself suffers from the fact that the outside of the
shield is a conductor at RF completely separate from the inside surface of
the shield, since RF travels only on the surface of a conductor, not
through it. So, if you have 50 feet of coaxial line running from your
antenna to the rig, you also have a separate 50 foot random wire antenna
leading into the shack. That's why special care must be taken to control or
suppress currents on the outside of the shield to avoid RF in the Shack
issues with coax.  

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the  
shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
George,

Short question, long answer follows --

Do to constraints at home, I no longer use open wire or ladder line 
feeders, but when I did use them, I found several things were true if 
you did not want them to radiate (and create RF in the Shack).
My first rule is to use balanced antennas - off center fed antennas are 
famous for feedline radiation and RF in the shack.
The second rule is to run the feedline away from the antenna at right 
angles for as great a length as you can manage, but certainly for a 
quarterwavelength - The feedline can pick up radiation from the antenna 
if this rule is not followed.
Third is to run the feedline correctly - use nice gentle bends if you 
must change direction, support it using as few hangers as possible (if 
you can put the feedline under tension, you can get away with very few 
supports) but support it so it is stable even in the wind.  Do not run 
it parallel to other conductors, but you may cross a conductor at right 
angles if necessary.  The line should be spaced away from other objects 
by at least 3 times the spacing of the conductors.

Lastly, If I could, use a true balanced tuner, link coupled is best, so 
if you see a Johnson Matchbox at a hamfest, get it.  If you must use an 
unbalanced tuner, use a good balun at the output (see K9AY's info on 
baluns).  BTW, do not assume that a 4:1 balun is the thing to use, the 
feedpoint impedance in the shack can vary wildly from very low to very high.

If you do encounter a high impedance feedpoint on any band, that will 
place a high RF voltage point at the shack end - add or subtract some 
feedline to bring the feedpoint impedance down.
If you do not understand how the  feedpoint impedance changes with the 
length, take a look at the Antenna article on my website www.w3fpr.com

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 11:25 AM, w2b...@aol.com wrote:
 Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the
 shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Robert G. Strickland
Don...

Many hams - as I have done/do - use coax to get out of the house, 
connect it to a balun, and then connect twinlead from the balun to an 
antenna. There is a lot of commentary on this setup, but perhaps another 
time through would be helpful. The questions arise:
- if the coax is short, say under ten feet, is this setup more or less 
equivalent to running the twinlead all the way from the antenna to the 
transmitter?
- again, if the coax is short, will RG8 or 213 be sufficient to the task?
- is there any advantage of one balun ratio to another [1:1, 4:1, 9:1]?

Happy New Year, and thanks for your contributions here on the Elecraft 
reflector.

...robert

On 12/31/2011 17:42, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 George,

 Short question, long answer follows --

 Do to constraints at home, I no longer use open wire or ladder line
 feeders, but when I did use them, I found several things were true if
 you did not want them to radiate (and create RF in the Shack).
 My first rule is to use balanced antennas - off center fed antennas are
 famous for feedline radiation and RF in the shack.
 The second rule is to run the feedline away from the antenna at right
 angles for as great a length as you can manage, but certainly for a
 quarterwavelength - The feedline can pick up radiation from the antenna
 if this rule is not followed.
 Third is to run the feedline correctly - use nice gentle bends if you
 must change direction, support it using as few hangers as possible (if
 you can put the feedline under tension, you can get away with very few
 supports) but support it so it is stable even in the wind.  Do not run
 it parallel to other conductors, but you may cross a conductor at right
 angles if necessary.  The line should be spaced away from other objects
 by at least 3 times the spacing of the conductors.

 Lastly, If I could, use a true balanced tuner, link coupled is best, so
 if you see a Johnson Matchbox at a hamfest, get it.  If you must use an
 unbalanced tuner, use a good balun at the output (see K9AY's info on
 baluns).  BTW, do not assume that a 4:1 balun is the thing to use, the
 feedpoint impedance in the shack can vary wildly from very low to very high.

 If you do encounter a high impedance feedpoint on any band, that will
 place a high RF voltage point at the shack end - add or subtract some
 feedline to bring the feedpoint impedance down.
 If you do not understand how the  feedpoint impedance changes with the
 length, take a look at the Antenna article on my website www.w3fpr.com

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 12/31/2011 11:25 AM, w2b...@aol.com wrote:
 Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the
 shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100

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-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Jim Miller
The coax will be exposed to whatever SWR is on the feedline. The SWR will
vary as a function of line length, characteristics, antenna length/height
and frequency of operation. If you know the SWR you will be seeing then you
can use coax loss calculators available online to see what the impact of
the various coax types and lengths.

The use of a balun is generally counterproductive for this purpose. A
common mode choke is what you want. Google W9CF for math to show
theoretical details and K9YC for practical implementations.

A practical CM choke is inexpensive and easy to build.

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I have often had a voltage loop at the rig end of my open wire feed line and
have never experienced a problem with stray RF, even though a neon bulb
lying near the ATU blinked as I sent CW. 

HOWEVER - I do use a homebrew link-coupled ATU with open wire line. It lacks
the dual-differential tuning capacitors that Johnson used to adjust virtual
coil taps for the feed line in the Matchbox, but mine has a much wider
matching range using actual taps on the coil. (The Johnson Matchbox is only
rated to match balanced lines with impedances up to 1200 ohms).  

Link coupling has a number of advantages including a high order of
suppression of stray signals since there is no direct electrical connection
between the antenna and the rig. Everything coming in (or going out) has to
pass magnetically across the link coupling and through the tuned circuit.
That's especially handy if you live near a broadcast station. 

And of course, you can use the same tuner with unbalanced lines (e.g. coax).
Just connect the shield to the center of the coil and tap the center
conductor out to either side.

WZ5Q has a great example of a beautifully link coupled tuner at:

http://www.wz5q.net/index/shack_data/tuna.htm

It's bigger and neater than mine but the circuit is the same right down to
the RF current sensors. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

If you do encounter a high impedance feedpoint on any band, that will 
place a high RF voltage point at the shack end - add or subtract some 
feedline to bring the feedpoint impedance down.
If you do not understand how the  feedpoint impedance changes with the 
length, take a look at the Antenna article on my website www.w3fpr.com

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Robert,

When that is done, I recommend doing several things:
1 - prune the balanced feedline until the feedpoint impedance is close 
to the characteristic impedance of the coax.  You may not be able to 
accomplish that on all desired bands, so plan to switch in extra 
feedline to accomplish that goal.

2 - If the parallel line feedpoint impedance is in the 150 to 300 ohm 
range, use a 4:1 balun (make certain it is a common mode choke type as 
has been recently pointed out.

3 - If the parallel line impedance is in the 25 to 100 ohm range, use a 
1:1 balun (or more properly a common mode choke - see Jim Brown's Balun 
articles.

Actually, the only thing accomplished by this technique is that the coax 
can be run into the shack more readily without regard for keeping the 
line away from other objects.
It is just as easy to use two parallel lengths of coax with the shield 
grounded and the balanced feedline connected to the two center 
conductors.  That will produce a shielded balanced line that you can 
bring into the shack just like a single coax.  As I said, the best is a 
link coupled balanced tuner, and no balun is needed at all.  The link 
coupling takes away concerns about common mode current and does a lot to 
cure RF in the Shack - unfortunately such couplers are scarce as hen's 
teeth, and although you can easily build your own on a piece of wood 
(no need for shielding), they are not readily adaptable to 
bandswitching.  Most of the ones I have built use plug-in coils.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 1:40 PM, Robert G. Strickland wrote:
 Don...

 Many hams - as I have done/do - use coax to get out of the house,
 connect it to a balun, and then connect twinlead from the balun to an
 antenna. There is a lot of commentary on this setup, but perhaps another
 time through would be helpful. The questions arise:
 - if the coax is short, say under ten feet, is this setup more or less
 equivalent to running the twinlead all the way from the antenna to the
 transmitter?
 - again, if the coax is short, will RG8 or 213 be sufficient to the task?
 - is there any advantage of one balun ratio to another [1:1, 4:1, 9:1]?

 Happy New Year, and thanks for your contributions here on the Elecraft
 reflector.

 ...robert

 On 12/31/2011 17:42, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 George,

 Short question, long answer follows --

 Do to constraints at home, I no longer use open wire or ladder line
 feeders, but when I did use them, I found several things were true if
 you did not want them to radiate (and create RF in the Shack).
 My first rule is to use balanced antennas - off center fed antennas are
 famous for feedline radiation and RF in the shack.
 The second rule is to run the feedline away from the antenna at right
 angles for as great a length as you can manage, but certainly for a
 quarterwavelength - The feedline can pick up radiation from the antenna
 if this rule is not followed.
 Third is to run the feedline correctly - use nice gentle bends if you
 must change direction, support it using as few hangers as possible (if
 you can put the feedline under tension, you can get away with very few
 supports) but support it so it is stable even in the wind.  Do not run
 it parallel to other conductors, but you may cross a conductor at right
 angles if necessary.  The line should be spaced away from other objects
 by at least 3 times the spacing of the conductors.

 Lastly, If I could, use a true balanced tuner, link coupled is best, so
 if you see a Johnson Matchbox at a hamfest, get it.  If you must use an
 unbalanced tuner, use a good balun at the output (see K9AY's info on
 baluns).  BTW, do not assume that a 4:1 balun is the thing to use, the
 feedpoint impedance in the shack can vary wildly from very low to very high.

 If you do encounter a high impedance feedpoint on any band, that will
 place a high RF voltage point at the shack end - add or subtract some
 feedline to bring the feedpoint impedance down.
 If you do not understand how the  feedpoint impedance changes with the
 length, take a look at the Antenna article on my website www.w3fpr.com

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 12/31/2011 11:25 AM, w2b...@aol.com wrote:
 Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the
 shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100

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[Elecraft] elecraft vs oriental rigs

2011-12-31 Thread bill . va3ol
I have had many rigs in my 35 years of hamming. My favorites are always
American.  Why? My first rig was an FT200, the poor man's Yaesu. I think it
was callled a Tempo one in the US. I bought it new and the dealer demanded
that it be sent back to Yaesu, he wouldn't fix it under warranty.  So I
avoided Yaesu for many years. I finally succumb to the FT857 and the audio
was so lousy that I hated it. Then, silly me, I bought an FT817 (used) and
within a year it wouldn't work on some bands. (turned out to be a common
problem) and 130$ later I sold it ... Never again. None of the YIK
people admit to a fault. None of the YIK people provide a solution to a
problem. I had an SGC 2020 bought new and under warranty. When  it chirped
on CW they said that they could make it right. IF i sent the rig back and
my cheque for $160 plus shipping - UNDER WARRANTY! I was so
upset I sold the damn thing.

I have built a K1, KX1, K2 (all of the accessories but not the basic K2
cw). The few times I have had a problem Elecraft was there to help me
resolve it. I am not a techy. But they were willing to talk me through it.

I once considered buying a K1 that had been lightning damaged. I emailed
Elecraft to see what my potential bill might be to have it fixed by them.
Their reply was: You can fix it yourself, and we will help you do that.
Imagine what YIK would say!

I see a lot of what I sometimes think are silly questions on the Elecraft
list. And then I remember; there are no silly questions, just really good
advise from Elecraft and the unsung hero's of the list.

I have ordered my KX3 sight unseen, and I am not waiting for a year for the
design to mature because I think that Elecraft will continue it's excellent
service and provide user installable upgrades the same way that it has done
with all of the other rigs that it sells.

Bill, VA3OL
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Would it were that all baluns were the same.  There is a limit to how
much blocking can be put between the balanced line and the coax.  What most
people fail to account for in the balanced line business is how much COMMON
MODE current and voltage there can be.  Unbalanced current on the feedline
is always common mode current.  Most will never see it in a model because
they DO NOT add the single conductor that gives the model the common mode
path that exists in reality.

I had a blocking need at the end of a long 450 window line run.  I was
doing very poorly in the matching, balancing business for this antenna.
 When I modeled everything literally, EZNEC said that with a PERFECT block
there was 955 volts RF RMS across the common connection in the balun !!!
 Gads.  There is NO balun ANYBODY makes that will stand up to that and work
right.  It will (and did) smoke ferrites.  Conversion to an isolation
transformer (which is not a balun...not inherently broadband) stopped all
the issues.  Of course an isolation transformer is a single band solution
without a tuner, as the series inductance has to be tuned out somehow.
 Running the balanced line to an isolation transformer (not a balun)
IMMEDIATELY followed by a tuner will handle common mode current.

But then, who talks about isolation transformers any more.

73, Guy.


On Sat, Dec 31, 2011 at 1:40 PM, Robert G. Strickland rc...@verizon.netwrote:

 Don...

 Many hams - as I have done/do - use coax to get out of the house,
 connect it to a balun, and then connect twinlead from the balun to an
 antenna. There is a lot of commentary on this setup, but perhaps another
 time through would be helpful. The questions arise:
 - if the coax is short, say under ten feet, is this setup more or less
 equivalent to running the twinlead all the way from the antenna to the
 transmitter?
 - again, if the coax is short, will RG8 or 213 be sufficient to the task?
 - is there any advantage of one balun ratio to another [1:1, 4:1, 9:1]?

 Happy New Year, and thanks for your contributions here on the Elecraft
 reflector.

 ...robert

 On 12/31/2011 17:42, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  George,
 
  Short question, long answer follows --
 
  Do to constraints at home, I no longer use open wire or ladder line
  feeders, but when I did use them, I found several things were true if
  you did not want them to radiate (and create RF in the Shack).
  My first rule is to use balanced antennas - off center fed antennas are
  famous for feedline radiation and RF in the shack.
  The second rule is to run the feedline away from the antenna at right
  angles for as great a length as you can manage, but certainly for a
  quarterwavelength - The feedline can pick up radiation from the antenna
  if this rule is not followed.
  Third is to run the feedline correctly - use nice gentle bends if you
  must change direction, support it using as few hangers as possible (if
  you can put the feedline under tension, you can get away with very few
  supports) but support it so it is stable even in the wind.  Do not run
  it parallel to other conductors, but you may cross a conductor at right
  angles if necessary.  The line should be spaced away from other objects
  by at least 3 times the spacing of the conductors.
 
  Lastly, If I could, use a true balanced tuner, link coupled is best, so
  if you see a Johnson Matchbox at a hamfest, get it.  If you must use an
  unbalanced tuner, use a good balun at the output (see K9AY's info on
  baluns).  BTW, do not assume that a 4:1 balun is the thing to use, the
  feedpoint impedance in the shack can vary wildly from very low to very
 high.
 
  If you do encounter a high impedance feedpoint on any band, that will
  place a high RF voltage point at the shack end - add or subtract some
  feedline to bring the feedpoint impedance down.
  If you do not understand how the  feedpoint impedance changes with the
  length, take a look at the Antenna article on my website www.w3fpr.com
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 12/31/2011 11:25 AM, w2b...@aol.com wrote:
  Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the
  shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100
 
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 --
 Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
 rc...@verizon.net
 Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA module

2011-12-31 Thread Vic K2VCO
Yes, the pics that appear to show an Ethernet connector and a USB connector 
(maybe). I 
wonder what they do?

On 12/30/2011 3:42 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
 See the pics at the bottom of the page at: http://www.elecraft.com/P3/p3.htm

 73, Eric --- www.elecraft.com


 On 12/30/2011 3:38 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
 I saw a post that orders for the mod will be about a week away.  Could we 
 get some
 preliminary details of all that the mod will do now, and ultimately.  There 
 have been
 rumors.

 Richard Fjeld, n0ce



-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA module

2011-12-31 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
Actually they are both USB - One USBa and one USBb.  One is for keyboard input 
for data modes and the other one is not yet defined. (for future use)

The keyboard data function will be part of a firmware upgrade we'll release 
shortly after the SVGA ships.

73,
Eric

www.elecraft.com
_..._



On Dec 31, 2011, at 11:58 AM, Vic K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, the pics that appear to show an Ethernet connector and a USB connector 
 (maybe). I 
 wonder what they do?
 
 On 12/30/2011 3:42 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
 See the pics at the bottom of the page at: http://www.elecraft.com/P3/p3.htm
 
 73, Eric --- www.elecraft.com
 
 
 On 12/30/2011 3:38 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
 I saw a post that orders for the mod will be about a week away.  Could we 
 get some
 preliminary details of all that the mod will do now, and ultimately.  There 
 have been
 rumors.
 
 Richard Fjeld, n0ce
 
 
 
 -- 
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Hystad
Did I read right that the forthcoming KAT500 would be able to match up to a 
10:1 SWR?

So, this should mean that the impedance range of the tuner is anywhere from 5 
to 500 ohms (absolute value of Z).

I currently use an AT1KM tuner with impedance range of 20 to 1500 ohms.  I use 
this with a horizontal delta loop and I am able to match all of my important 
bands that I operate on this antenna which are 80, 40, 30.  I use a 5-band hex 
beam for the other bands.

But, I can easily get a good match well under 1.5:1 using the AT1KM.  But, I 
also measured the impedance and SWR at the point that the coax hooks into the 
AT1KM.   These measures are then of the raw, un-tuned, antenna system (coax and 
delta loop) made with my MFJ-259B.  According to these measurements, the raw 
impedances I need to match are more then 10:1 for some of the bands.  Indeed, I 
am close to 24:1 for the low part of 80 but I operate fine in this region using 
the AT1KM.

Should I then assume that the KAT500 will not work for me with my current 
antenna system?  I also noticed that other auto-tuners have similar wider 
ranges.  For example, MFJ-998 supports a matching range of 12 to 1600; and, the 
old Palstar AT-Auto supports a matching range of 15 to 1500 (now Kessler 
Engineering).  Apparently, the new the new Palstar HF-Auto is reported as 10:1 
SWR which may be the same as KAT500.

Therefore, can someone (Wayne, Eric or others in the know) confirm that with my 
current antenna configuration, I will probably NOT be able to use the KAT500 
for 80 meters (at least).  My options I suppose are not to use the KAT500 at 
all, not use it for 80, or reconfigure my delta loop (although, my degrees of 
freedom for this are small).

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread K8TB
I have a balanced fed balanced length dipole. The dipole sits atop 
40' of rope guyed fiberglass pole. 55 feet on each side. About 45 feet 
of 450 ohm balanced line comes into the far end of the back side of the 
house into one of my 7 , um, junk/storage rooms! There I have a 4:1 
balun, which then hits a LDG RT-11 antenna tuner. The RT-11 is a remote 
controlled tuner.  A little control sits in the shack. I tap the tune 
button on the K3, tap the tune button on the little LDG box and the 
tuner works.

 I don't know what the experts or Enzec says about this antenna, but 
I'll tell you that it works, and very well. So much so that I have a 
second copy of it in a plastic box in the garage that is used on field 
day. Anyone who uses that antenna at field day is very impressed. I have 
about 60 feet of rg-8x from the shack to the remote antenna tuner. Zero 
RF in the shack, ever. No chokes on any feed line. And it has worked K5C 
and VP6DX and others on all bands from 80 to 10. I have no idea how the 
success ratio is divided between the antenna and K3!

 Now, maybe we can build a simple interface to the KAT500 tuner to 
convert its need to communicate to the K3 to a balanced rs-485 
configuration. That would allow us to remote the tuner hundreds of feet. 
I would then use that at my remote base site.

 But that antenna does work.

 Tom K8TB




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[Elecraft] Elecraft vs. Apple

2011-12-31 Thread Mike Morrow
Rick wrote:

 Or from future historians who want to know how Elecraft became the ham
 equivalent of Apple.  ;-)

One must really, really hope not.  If Elecraft's products and policies and
attitudes toward the customer reflected those of Apple, the purchaser wouldn't
even be allowed to open the case and change the battery!

Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread John Harper
I don't have a problem with it at all, even with a kw. RG213 goes 8 feet
to a window feed-thru, then to a balun, then 75 feet of 450-ohm line.

The only problem I had was when I installed a second antenna (a 40m
vertical dipole) and fed it with ladder line as well. Then tuning settings
on my first antenna changes by quite a bit on some bands so I ended up
feeding that 2nd antenna with RG213 to use as an antenna on that band
only. The origianl reason for the ladder line was to use it 10-40.

I think interaction between plural ladder line fed antennas is more of an
issue than RF in the shack.

John Harper
http://www.ae5x.com/blog





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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Ron,  

Thank you for the references.  I found the information very interesting to
say the least.  Parts here would be an issue, but the construction and
methods to check and adjust the tuner were most valuable.  Now just to have
some drawer space!  As Don had mentioned in an earlier post, getting the
balanced feed line to the shack can be quite a challenge, especially for
those of us who have rebar enforce concrete with no simple method to feed
through the wall.  I think even the double coax systems to be a difficulty
especially when having to drill into the side of the house and miss all the
surrounding materials, esp. the rebar.  This may not be my last shack so I
have filed the project and will see what I can find for parts now before
this stuff gets extinct.  That copper tubing is really becoming scarce and I
am not even sure how much  copper really  is in the tubing and what impact
it has on the coils if not of the same purity.

I did locate some surplus Comet vacuum capacitors in the $800+ range??!!! 

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire


I have often had a voltage loop at the rig end of my open wire feed line and
have never experienced a problem with stray RF, even though a neon bulb
lying near the ATU blinked as I sent CW. 

HOWEVER - I do use a homebrew link-coupled ATU with open wire line. It lacks
the dual-differential tuning capacitors that Johnson used to adjust virtual
coil taps for the feed line in the Matchbox, but mine has a much wider
matching range using actual taps on the coil. (The Johnson Matchbox is only
rated to match balanced lines with impedances up to 1200 ohms).  

Link coupling has a number of advantages including a high order of
suppression of stray signals since there is no direct electrical connection
between the antenna and the rig. Everything coming in (or going out) has to
pass magnetically across the link coupling and through the tuned circuit.
That's especially handy if you live near a broadcast station. 

And of course, you can use the same tuner with unbalanced lines (e.g. coax).
Just connect the shield to the center of the coil and tap the center
conductor out to either side.

WZ5Q has a great example of a beautifully link coupled tuner at:

http://www.wz5q.net/index/shack_data/tuna.htm

It's bigger and neater than mine but the circuit is the same right down to
the RF current sensors. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

If you do encounter a high impedance feedpoint on any band, that will place
a high RF voltage point at the shack end - add or subtract some feedline to
bring the feedpoint impedance down.
If you do not understand how the  feedpoint impedance changes with the
length, take a look at the Antenna article on my website www.w3fpr.com

73,
Don W3FPR

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[Elecraft] State Of Maine Elecrafters - Can We Get Group Together For Coffee?

2011-12-31 Thread Bruce Howes
I've seen a number of Maine call signs up here, with the cold weather finally 
upon us, and Lobstercon at least 6 months away, what do you think about getting 
together to discuss Elecraft products and radio in general?

I'm a Elecraft builder and user, K1, K2, K3, KX1, etc.
Also like low power portable operations, often take a portable station with me 
when traveling.
Other interests include boat anchors - older tube gear and restorations.

I'm in the Midcoast, could host here, or at a convenient restaurant more 
central to others. 
Would be nice to meet each other, talk about our projects, stations, radio 
activities, who knows what might come out of it. 
Think about lunch, coffee, bringing along photos or some of Elecraft gear to 
show the group, an informal introduction and show and tell.

Interested? I'd love to hear your thoughts and ideas.
Email me at w1...@arrl.net and I'd be happy to coordinate.

Thanks!

73
Bruce J. Howes W1UJR
www.w1ujr.net

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft vs. Apple

2011-12-31 Thread Bert Craig
I have to wholeheartedly agree with Mike, KK5F. As an 16 yr. veteran IT
professional, I decided to give Apple a fair shake and purchased a MacBook
for my wife and a MacBook Pro for myself. After a year (A fair time
period.) I went back to my beloved ThinkPads. My 13 yr. old daughter, Sam,
W2SSC now has the MacBook Pro as she and my wife love them. They are meant
to be relatively easy and discourage most under the hood upgrades. I,
however, dislike the our way or the highway approach.

Wishing everybody and their families a healthy and happy new year. Take care
es...

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI

-Original Message-
From: Mike Morrow [mailto:k...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 15:56
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft vs. Apple

Rick wrote:

 Or from future historians who want to know how Elecraft became the ham 
 equivalent of Apple.  ;-)

One must really, really hope not.  If Elecraft's products and policies and
attitudes toward the customer reflected those of Apple, the purchaser
wouldn't even be allowed to open the case and change the battery!

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Jim Bennett
An interesting question!! And it directly affects my situation, too.

So, here is a slight add-on to Phil's query - perhaps Eric or Wayne can shed 
some light here. My main antenna is an 88' foot long doublet at 45 feet, fed 
with 600-ohm ladder line, and a 1:1 balun where my eight feet of coax from the 
K3/100 connects to the balanced line. The K3's tuner gives me a match on this 
antenna on 80 through 6 meters. I'm a happy camper with this antenna working 
pretty darn well on all bands, although it is mostly NVIS on 80. So, my 
question is - how close in performance will the KAT500 be to the KAT3? Can I 
expect the KAT500 to match this antenna as well as the KAT3 does? I'd certainly 
NOT be happy to spend the dollars for the new tuner to find that it is not 
capable of doing what the KAT3 can do.

Jim / W6JHB


On   Saturday, Dec 31, 2011, at  Saturday, 12:33 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

 Did I read right that the forthcoming KAT500 would be able to match up to a 
 10:1 SWR?
 
 So, this should mean that the impedance range of the tuner is anywhere from 5 
 to 500 ohms (absolute value of Z).
 
 I currently use an AT1KM tuner with impedance range of 20 to 1500 ohms.  I 
 use this with a horizontal delta loop and I am able to match all of my 
 important bands that I operate on this antenna which are 80, 40, 30.  I use a 
 5-band hex beam for the other bands.
 
 But, I can easily get a good match well under 1.5:1 using the AT1KM.  But, I 
 also measured the impedance and SWR at the point that the coax hooks into the 
 AT1KM.   These measures are then of the raw, un-tuned, antenna system (coax 
 and delta loop) made with my MFJ-259B.  According to these measurements, the 
 raw impedances I need to match are more then 10:1 for some of the bands.  
 Indeed, I am close to 24:1 for the low part of 80 but I operate fine in this 
 region using the AT1KM.
 
 Should I then assume that the KAT500 will not work for me with my current 
 antenna system?  I also noticed that other auto-tuners have similar wider 
 ranges.  For example, MFJ-998 supports a matching range of 12 to 1600; and, 
 the old Palstar AT-Auto supports a matching range of 15 to 1500 (now Kessler 
 Engineering).  Apparently, the new the new Palstar HF-Auto is reported as 
 10:1 SWR which may be the same as KAT500.
 
 Therefore, can someone (Wayne, Eric or others in the know) confirm that with 
 my current antenna configuration, I will probably NOT be able to use the 
 KAT500 for 80 meters (at least).  My options I suppose are not to use the 
 KAT500 at all, not use it for 80, or reconfigure my delta loop (although, my 
 degrees of freedom for this are small).
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft vs. Apple

2011-12-31 Thread Rick Bates
Before this degenerates further, I was referring to Elecraft/Apple producing
a product that is so good that the public didn't know they wanted it; then
couldn't live without it once exposed to it (iPod, iPhone, iPad; K1, K2, K3,
KX3).

We all know that Elecraft (unlike Apple) understands that customer support
is the actual product that they really sell.  The rest is just hardware.

Rick WA6NHC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bert Craig
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 1:22 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft vs. Apple

I have to wholeheartedly agree with Mike, KK5F. As an 16 yr. veteran IT
professional, I decided to give Apple a fair shake and purchased a MacBook
for my wife and a MacBook Pro for myself. After a year (A fair time
period.) I went back to my beloved ThinkPads. My 13 yr. old daughter, Sam,
W2SSC now has the MacBook Pro as she and my wife love them. They are meant
to be relatively easy and discourage most under the hood upgrades. I,
however, dislike the our way or the highway approach.

Wishing everybody and their families a healthy and happy new year. Take care
es...

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI

-Original Message-
From: Mike Morrow [mailto:k...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 15:56
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft vs. Apple

Rick wrote:

 Or from future historians who want to know how Elecraft became the ham 
 equivalent of Apple.  ;-)

One must really, really hope not.  If Elecraft's products and policies and
attitudes toward the customer reflected those of Apple, the purchaser
wouldn't even be allowed to open the case and change the battery!

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread ab2tc
Hi,

Wow, gorgeously constructed tuner by WZ5Q. I wish I had one. But is the
center tap of the secondary really connected to the coax input ground as
indicated in the schematic?

AB2TC - Knut


Bill K9YEQ wrote
 
 Ron,  
 
 Thank you for the references.  I found the information very interesting to
 say the least.  Parts here would be an issue, but the construction and
 methods to check and adjust the tuner were most valuable.  Now just to
 have
 some drawer space!  As Don had mentioned in an earlier post, getting the
 balanced feed line to the shack can be quite a challenge, especially for
 those of us who have rebar enforce concrete with no simple method to feed
 through the wall.  I think even the double coax systems to be a difficulty
 especially when having to drill into the side of the house and miss all
 the
 surrounding materials, esp. the rebar.  This may not be my last shack so I
 have filed the project and will see what I can find for parts now before
 this stuff gets extinct.  That copper tubing is really becoming scarce and
 I
 am not even sure how much  copper really  is in the tubing and what impact
 it has on the coils if not of the same purity.
 
 I did locate some surplus Comet vacuum capacitors in the $800+ range??!!! 
 
 73,
 Bill
 K9YEQ
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-bounces@.qth
 [mailto:elecraft-bounces@.qth] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
 
 
 I have often had a voltage loop at the rig end of my open wire feed line
 and
 have never experienced a problem with stray RF, even though a neon bulb
 lying near the ATU blinked as I sent CW. 
 
 HOWEVER - I do use a homebrew link-coupled ATU with open wire line. It
 lacks
 the dual-differential tuning capacitors that Johnson used to adjust
 virtual
 coil taps for the feed line in the Matchbox, but mine has a much wider
 matching range using actual taps on the coil. (The Johnson Matchbox is
 only
 rated to match balanced lines with impedances up to 1200 ohms).  
 
 Link coupling has a number of advantages including a high order of
 suppression of stray signals since there is no direct electrical
 connection
 between the antenna and the rig. Everything coming in (or going out) has
 to
 pass magnetically across the link coupling and through the tuned circuit.
 That's especially handy if you live near a broadcast station. 
 
 And of course, you can use the same tuner with unbalanced lines (e.g.
 coax).
 Just connect the shield to the center of the coil and tap the center
 conductor out to either side.
 
 WZ5Q has a great example of a beautifully link coupled tuner at:
 
 http://www.wz5q.net/index/shack_data/tuna.htm
 
 It's bigger and neater than mine but the circuit is the same right down to
 the RF current sensors. 
 
 Ron AC7AC
 snip
 


--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/open-wire-feeders-tp7140748p7141208.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Oops, I didn't look closely enough at his schematic. He used a single
section cap. Mine is a dual section with the ends of the main coil connected
to each stator, the rotor floating, and no grounded center tap on the main
coil. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of ab2tc
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 2:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

Hi,

Wow, gorgeously constructed tuner by WZ5Q. I wish I had one. But is the
center tap of the secondary really connected to the coax input ground as
indicated in the schematic?

AB2TC - Knut


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vs. FT817 (comparing apples+oranges)

2011-12-31 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Steve,

I enjoyed your analysis.  I own the FT817 with the SSB filter, upgraded
battery pack that has great shelf life and the Analog DSP device  all added
a number of years ago.  I am most unhappy with the battery life and the much
too tiny controls and display.  A bit taller profile would have allowed so
much more.  I badgered Wayne in 2004 before taking a trip to Antarctica to
come up with a KX1 style device that had SSB, single band would be just fine
as long as I could have band selection.  

He also expressed  similar discontent.  Unbeknownst,  he must have had the
idea for a  KX3-like device in the mental works.  I like the form factor of
the FT-817 for walkabouts with an antenna attached to the face of the radio
with my carry case and sling over shoulder while dragging my counterpoise.
Great for operating as long as there wasn't much noise or much close
interference.  I also found the radio's rejection of noise was poor even
with the DSP working, unless I turned it to an aggressive position which
then created digital artifacts which are also annoying.  The FT-817 does
have the walkabout benefit.  I like to operate at 2 watts SSB. I do this on
my KX1 and K2 as well.  I go to  1.00 watt on the K3 on CW as I can use a
fixed station antenna.  I love SSB and only occasionally work CW.  The
better receiver on the KX3 will be a huge benefit in my opinion.

I had an FT-857 in my mobile for all band.   It was horrible on HF for me
because of the noise in metro areas, etc.  When I moved to an IC7000 it was
like day and night.  (The FT-817 and 857 were too similar for my liking.)  I
can work HF without issue and have lots of power for V/U and the audio is
very good.  My dilemma for the KX3 as a mobile is the lack of FM
features/bands common with the competition.  I think I will remove the 7000
and get the KX3 with amplifier and add an FM transceiver.  I like having a
tuner to load whatever I can come up with for an antenna on my electric fold
over mount and not have the SUV look like a porcupine mobile ground plane.
(No offense intended for those who have porcupines,  I don't like the look
on my vehicle, my wife doesn't like what I already have which is very low
profile and I cannot disagree to a point.)  

We'll see what Wayne and Eric come up with.  Right now I will just sit and
wait.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-

I do agree with some of what Doug says. I see the numbers side with the
pricing - you are more than double the original price Doug outlined with a
KX3. The FT-817ND now is in the $700+ range. Going off that number a base
KX3 is $300 more - not a double in price. 

Regarding the apples to oranges comment - I entirely agree. In fact, I
find it hard to compare the KX3 to a lot of radios because there is so much
under the cover (and on the cover). My potable radio for years has been the
FT-857D. That is my every day rig in the mobile (160-6m, 2m, 70cm) and is my
grab'n'go rig. I have a K2 also and that is nice when car-camping, but at
that point the FT-857D is along too - it has VHF/UHF capabilities the K2
does not. Adding in the 2m module to the KX3 will let me grab that instead
of un-installing the FT-857D. I am anxious to throw it in the backpack and
head out to the Appalachians for a few days. My pack weight will drop
substantially and my back will thank me! 

For what the FT-817 is - it is a neat little rig. That satisfied a niche for
years in the HFPack community. It is really hard to knock the useability of
the rig. For those that currently have them maybe, as Doug alludes to, it
will remain a staple in their portable arsenals. My FT-857D will be a staple
in my arsenal in some instances I would assume, but there is some
versatility in that rig that the KX3 will replace, no doubt. At the time I
got the FT-857D I considered other rigs - and the FT-817 was one of them.
Where I use my FT-857D most of the time is as my every-day mobile rig, and
to that point there still is no radio on the market that satisfies that
niche to the same capacity - the FT-857D, as heavy as it is, still has made
its way in to my backpack for trips around southern Ohio and the Appalachian
mountains. It is compact and the receive current is low (500-550mA = low
enough to run on batteries). Try that with an IC-7000 (one of the better
mobile rigs on the market). That rig's current consumption is at least 2
amps (2000mA) and it is also heavier. Or, conversely, try putting an FT-817
in the mobile... Doesn't work too well - the faceplate doesn't remote and
the power output is low. 

Who knows - maybe the KX3 will make it in to my mobile station with the
KXPA100... Then the FT-857D for VHF/UHF and the KX3 for HF? HI. The
possibilities are endless. 

We are all entitled to our own opinions. What the base of those opinions is
can vary, but we're the ones that choose our tools. What we want our tools
to do or have change, but guess what? They all do the same job. All radios
let you communicate. Do you want CW only? 

[Elecraft] SKN 2012

2011-12-31 Thread John Oppenheimer
Straight Key Night is just a under two hours away:
http://www.arrl.org/straight-key-night

If you have a straight key, and maybe a vintage CW station, then it's
time to get on the air. Those of you that have a K2, then you may have a
vintage rig ready to go:

vin·tage
adj.
1. Of or relating to a vintage.
2. Characterized by excellence, maturity, and enduring appeal; classic.
3. Old or outmoded.

Is the year for the K2 the date it was designed, a decade ago, or when
it was built? My K2 is vintage 2011.

The K2 is absolutely; excellent, very mature, and, because it's still
sold today, must have an enduring appeal.

Alas, the K2 is old and outmoded, as it will soon be replaced by many KX3s.

Happy New Year,
John, KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Kevin's Mail
I've got the same antenna here.
88' of 300 Ohm transmitting twinlead configured as a folded dipole. Fed with 
about 50ft of 300 Ohm to a 1:1 balun and coax into the shack from there. My 
KAT100-1 matches it on all bands and(I haven't tried 160 because I don't expect 
miracles) at 100W. It's spec'd range is 10:1.

I can't imagine the KAT500 won't match something close to that. If folks are 
expecting it to match the proverbial wet noodle or their downspouts AND take 
500W they should probably change their expectations.


On Sat, 31 Dec 2011 13:36:28 -0800
Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:

 An interesting question!! And it directly affects my situation, too.
 
 So, here is a slight add-on to Phil's query - perhaps Eric or Wayne can shed 
 some light here. My main antenna is an 88' foot long doublet at 45 feet, 
 fed with 600-ohm ladder line, and a 1:1 balun where my eight feet of coax 
 from the K3/100 connects to the balanced line. The K3's tuner gives me a 
 match on this antenna on 80 through 6 meters. I'm a happy camper with this 
 antenna working pretty darn well on all bands, although it is mostly NVIS on 
 80. So, my question is - how close in performance will the KAT500 be to the 
 KAT3? Can I expect the KAT500 to match this antenna as well as the KAT3 does? 
 I'd certainly NOT be happy to spend the dollars for the new tuner to find 
 that it is not capable of doing what the KAT3 can do.
 
 Jim / W6JHB
 
 
 On   Saturday, Dec 31, 2011, at  Saturday, 12:33 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
 
  Did I read right that the forthcoming KAT500 would be able to match up to a 
  10:1 SWR?
  
  So, this should mean that the impedance range of the tuner is anywhere from 
  5 to 500 ohms (absolute value of Z).
  
  I currently use an AT1KM tuner with impedance range of 20 to 1500 ohms.  I 
  use this with a horizontal delta loop and I am able to match all of my 
  important bands that I operate on this antenna which are 80, 40, 30.  I use 
  a 5-band hex beam for the other bands.
  
  But, I can easily get a good match well under 1.5:1 using the AT1KM.  But, 
  I also measured the impedance and SWR at the point that the coax hooks into 
  the AT1KM.   These measures are then of the raw, un-tuned, antenna system 
  (coax and delta loop) made with my MFJ-259B.  According to these 
  measurements, the raw impedances I need to match are more then 10:1 for 
  some of the bands.  Indeed, I am close to 24:1 for the low part of 80 but I 
  operate fine in this region using the AT1KM.
  
  Should I then assume that the KAT500 will not work for me with my current 
  antenna system?  I also noticed that other auto-tuners have similar wider 
  ranges.  For example, MFJ-998 supports a matching range of 12 to 1600; and, 
  the old Palstar AT-Auto supports a matching range of 15 to 1500 (now 
  Kessler Engineering).  Apparently, the new the new Palstar HF-Auto is 
  reported as 10:1 SWR which may be the same as KAT500.
  
  Therefore, can someone (Wayne, Eric or others in the know) confirm that 
  with my current antenna configuration, I will probably NOT be able to use 
  the KAT500 for 80 meters (at least).  My options I suppose are not to use 
  the KAT500 at all, not use it for 80, or reconfigure my delta loop 
  (although, my degrees of freedom for this are small).
  
  73, phil, K7PEH
  
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-- 
R. Kevin Stover  AC0H
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[Elecraft] k2 for sale

2011-12-31 Thread John Cooper
Sorry for the bandwith but my k2 is relisted on ebay at a slightly cheaper 
price and better pics this time.  The buy it now price is 1500 but if anyone on 
the list wants it I will let it go for $1400 via paypal on here and take it off 
ebay.

John WT5Y
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Re: [Elecraft] SKN 2012

2011-12-31 Thread stan levandowski
I've got a homebrew 6C4 driving a 5763 to 8 watts input *somewhere* 
around 7.028  +/- the drift ;) but my K2 is my receiver for tonight and 
the T/R relay is Phil Salas' AD5X version from an old QST.  We're 
definitely *not* talking QSK here, folks!!   Made one warm-up QSO 
today with KE3NE and realized the old fist just ain't what it used to be 
!!!  Happy New Year and Happy SKN.

Stan WB2LQF


On Sat, Dec 31, 2011 at 5:27 PM, John Oppenheimer wrote:

 Straight Key Night is just a under two hours away:
 http://www.arrl.org/straight-key-night

 If you have a straight key, and maybe a vintage CW station, then it's
 time to get on the air. Those of you that have a K2, then you may have 
 a
 vintage rig ready to go:

 vin·tage
 adj.
 1. Of or relating to a vintage.
 2. Characterized by excellence, maturity, and enduring appeal; 
 classic.
 3. Old or outmoded.

 Is the year for the K2 the date it was designed, a decade ago, or when
 it was built? My K2 is vintage 2011.

 The K2 is absolutely; excellent, very mature, and, because it's still
 sold today, must have an enduring appeal.

 Alas, the K2 is old and outmoded, as it will soon be replaced by many 
 KX3s.

 Happy New Year,
 John, KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Actually, that is a *brute* tuner, capable of mega kilowatts!  Something 
a bit scaled down is more practical IMHO.  BUT the design is exactly 
what I was referring to.

The design principle is the same, but I have always used dual section 
capacitors so the shaft is at RF Ground potential (no insulators 
required).  Number 12 or 14 wire in the coil should be all that is 
required for normal legal power levels.  WZ5Q would probably consider it 
wimpy, but for practical purposes, it should be just fine.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 5:01 PM, ab2tc wrote:
 Hi,

 Wow, gorgeously constructed tuner by WZ5Q. I wish I had one. But is the
 center tap of the secondary really connected to the coax input ground as
 indicated in the schematic?

 AB2TC - Knut



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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread David Windisch
Make yourself a line stretcher, a device with switchable lengths of
whatever feedline you use,  starting out with, eg, a 1' length, then 2',
then 4', and so on.  Put it at the tuner output.  This can change the Z
presented to the tuner to something it can handle without running out of the
range of variable adjustment.  It's an old workaround.
Brgds,
Dave, N3HE


--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Question-about-forthcoming-KAT500-tp7141131p7141267.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Some Year End Thoughts about Elecraft and InnovativeRadio Manufactures of the Past

2011-12-31 Thread Doug Turnbull
Dear Friends,
 I have come to judge all companies by the standard Elecraft has set and
none compare.   The design engineers, all of them talk with their customers
and this is indeed rare.   Product development has continued.   Performance,
quality, reliability compared to price is all hard to beat.  I consider
myself fortunate to be using a K3 and P3. 

 Sometimes when I look at the expansion of the product line I wonder if
this will mean that K3 development will stop but this does not seem to be
the case.   It is time to pinch myself one more time.   Happy New Year to
all the good folks at Elecraft and to all of their many users.   

73 Doug EI2CN   

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Monty Shultes
Sent: 31 December 2011 11:38
To: Bill
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Some Year End Thoughts about Elecraft and
InnovativeRadio Manufactures of the Past

While large organizations can be productive, really new ideas tend to come
from one person's motivation and insight.  Elecraft is the product of two
such people, each with their expertise.  I hope that one-two punch provides
enough satisfaction for them to continue.  From the 4 K2s built to my
current K3 and KX1, the satisfaction of ownership has been outstanding.  KX3
order is on the list.  Anyone need a 706 MKII?

Monty K2DLJ

On Dec 30, 2011, at 8:56 PM, Bill wrote:

 I just finished reading an article about some companies that
 may not or will not be around for 2012.  For example, SEARS has been in
business for 125 years but they are
 closing hundreds of stores. 
 Because of the current economy, the list of failing
 businesses in this country is long and growing longer each day.
 This got me thinking of some of the innovative radio
 manufactures and equipment of the past.  The
 Central Electronics  100V was one of the
 first no-tune transmitters. Pretty cool for the 1950's.  The Collins S
Line and KWM-380 were pricey but
 nice.  How about the Signal One Milspec
 1030.  I believe Signal One was a company
 that was about the same size as Elecraft.
 Some of the companies such as Collins are still in business making
 Avionics but sadly they no longer make Amateur Radio equipment.
 How lucky we are to be able to jump on the web and order some
 of the latest technology rigs from Elecraft such as the KX3. I believe
that Elecraft
 rigs are high in performance but still very reasonable in price when
compared
 to the competition. Good job guys!
 It takes more than innovative thinking and engineering expertise
 to run a business in the state of California.  There are expensive
business licenses and permits, costly insurance, environmental
 restrictions, high business taxes, and the list goes on.  We even get Cap
and Trade starting in 2012.  Even though small businesses provide
 many of the jobs in this state the climate is almost hostile towards them
having
 any kind of success.  I try to keep these
 things in mind before bugging Wayne about the KX3 manual. 
 That reminds me..  When
 can I order that new display board for the P3  J
 Thanks to everyone at Elecraft and Happy New Year to all.
 73,
 Bill - K6WLM 
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

It has been some number of hours now and we have not heard from Wayne 
(likely doing New Year's eve celebration with the family), so I will 
attempt to answer from my recall of prior information from Wayne.
First, I believe the KAT500 will have a range as great (maybe greater) 
than the KAT3 - so if the KAT3 handles your antenna, the KAT500 should too.

I would also like to say that the stated 10:1 SWR tuning range is not 
absolute, but is worst case.  The matching range of any tuner is more 
limited at low frequencies.  For instance, if the tuner can match a 10:1 
SWR at 160 meters, it may be able to match a 25:1 SWR at 10 meters.  Of 
course, that all depends on the resistive to reactive ratio too - all 
loads are not equal.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 4:36 PM, Jim Bennett wrote:
 An interesting question!! And it directly affects my situation, too.

 So, here is a slight add-on to Phil's query - perhaps Eric or Wayne can shed 
 some light here. My main antenna is an 88' foot long doublet at 45 feet, 
 fed with 600-ohm ladder line, and a 1:1 balun where my eight feet of coax 
 from the K3/100 connects to the balanced line. The K3's tuner gives me a 
 match on this antenna on 80 through 6 meters. I'm a happy camper with this 
 antenna working pretty darn well on all bands, although it is mostly NVIS on 
 80. So, my question is - how close in performance will the KAT500 be to the 
 KAT3? Can I expect the KAT500 to match this antenna as well as the KAT3 does? 
 I'd certainly NOT be happy to spend the dollars for the new tuner to find 
 that it is not capable of doing what the KAT3 can do.

 Jim / W6JHB



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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Hystad
Follow-up:

Well, I did my own experiment.  I forgot briefly that I have a KAT3 which is 
also described as a 10:1 matching tuner.  Well, it does not seem to match most 
of my bands on the delta loop.  So, the KAT500 is not on my to-buy list until I 
get this antenna fixed to match better.  I have a lot of ideas but I am waiting 
for warmer and dryer weather -- good because the KAT500 should be well tested 
by the field by then.

73, phil, K7PEH

On Dec 31, 2011, at 12:33 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

 Did I read right that the forthcoming KAT500 would be able to match up to a 
 10:1 SWR?
 
 So, this should mean that the impedance range of the tuner is anywhere from 5 
 to 500 ohms (absolute value of Z).
 
 I currently use an AT1KM tuner with impedance range of 20 to 1500 ohms.  I 
 use this with a horizontal delta loop and I am able to match all of my 
 important bands that I operate on this antenna which are 80, 40, 30.  I use a 
 5-band hex beam for the other bands.
 
 But, I can easily get a good match well under 1.5:1 using the AT1KM.  But, I 
 also measured the impedance and SWR at the point that the coax hooks into the 
 AT1KM.   These measures are then of the raw, un-tuned, antenna system (coax 
 and delta loop) made with my MFJ-259B.  According to these measurements, the 
 raw impedances I need to match are more then 10:1 for some of the bands.  
 Indeed, I am close to 24:1 for the low part of 80 but I operate fine in this 
 region using the AT1KM.
 
 Should I then assume that the KAT500 will not work for me with my current 
 antenna system?  I also noticed that other auto-tuners have similar wider 
 ranges.  For example, MFJ-998 supports a matching range of 12 to 1600; and, 
 the old Palstar AT-Auto supports a matching range of 15 to 1500 (now Kessler 
 Engineering).  Apparently, the new the new Palstar HF-Auto is reported as 
 10:1 SWR which may be the same as KAT500.
 
 Therefore, can someone (Wayne, Eric or others in the know) confirm that with 
 my current antenna configuration, I will probably NOT be able to use the 
 KAT500 for 80 meters (at least).  My options I suppose are not to use the 
 KAT500 at all, not use it for 80, or reconfigure my delta loop (although, my 
 degrees of freedom for this are small).
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
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Re: [Elecraft] SKN 2012

2011-12-31 Thread Ariel Jacala

John
I agree with everything except for number 3.  For those of us to have, keep and 
own a rig where we soldered on the components and qualify as a homebrew 
transceiver in many homebrew contests, and be proud to say that it has been 
soldered together by ME, the K2 will never be replaced.  Besides, if anything 
ever broke on it, I can probably fix it by going to a local electronic parts 
store and repair the broken components.  The K2 will go the way of the Kenwood 
TS830S, an irreplaceable classic - only my humble opinion.  The ergonomics of 
the K2 design makes it the classic CW rig.
Ariel

 Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2011 16:27:56 -0600
 From: j...@kn5l.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] SKN 2012
 
 Straight Key Night is just a under two hours away:
 http://www.arrl.org/straight-key-night
 
 If you have a straight key, and maybe a vintage CW station, then it's
 time to get on the air. Those of you that have a K2, then you may have a
 vintage rig ready to go:
 
 vin·tage
 adj.
 1. Of or relating to a vintage.
 2. Characterized by excellence, maturity, and enduring appeal; classic.
 3. Old or outmoded.
 
 Is the year for the K2 the date it was designed, a decade ago, or when
 it was built? My K2 is vintage 2011.
 
 The K2 is absolutely; excellent, very mature, and, because it's still
 sold today, must have an enduring appeal.
 
 Alas, the K2 is old and outmoded, as it will soon be replaced by many KX3s.
 
 Happy New Year,
 John, KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] SKN 2012

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

If you think my fully upgraded (and packed with all options for a QRP 
K2) original Field Test K2 SN 00020 will be replaced by a KX3, you have 
another think coming.
Yes, I will have a KX3, but that old K2 will still be rolling along.
It may not do prime duty in the home station - the K3 takes of that, and 
it will no longer be the Field Radio of Choice once the KX3 is in hand, 
but it will sit faithfully on the operating desk and be used in sort of 
an SO2R position with the K3.
I hope my heirs treat it with respect as well, but that is out of my 
control.  So in the future, if you youngsters run across a K2 SN 00020, 
know that it was mine, and it was never sold in my lifetime.

Oh yes, Happy New Year to all - 2011 is just about gone.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 5:27 PM, John Oppenheimer wrote:
 Straight Key Night is just a under two hours away:
  http://www.arrl.org/straight-key-night

 If you have a straight key, and maybe a vintage CW station, then it's
 time to get on the air. Those of you that have a K2, then you may have a
 vintage rig ready to go:

 vin·tage
 adj.
 1. Of or relating to a vintage.
 2. Characterized by excellence, maturity, and enduring appeal; classic.
 3. Old or outmoded.

 Is the year for the K2 the date it was designed, a decade ago, or when
 it was built? My K2 is vintage 2011.

 The K2 is absolutely; excellent, very mature, and, because it's still
 sold today, must have an enduring appeal.

 Alas, the K2 is old and outmoded, as it will soon be replaced by many KX3s.

 Happy New Year,
 John, KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil,

You might want to try adding or subtracting some feedline - that is sure 
to make some feedpoint impedance change.  OTOH, if you now have a 
working system, why change?  If there is some added value to using the 
KAT500 over what you have installed and working, then fine, look at how 
to best integrate the KAT500 - but if what you have works to your 
satisfaction, then why change.
Don't monkey with what works.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 6:06 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
 Follow-up:

 Well, I did my own experiment.  I forgot briefly that I have a KAT3 which is 
 also described as a 10:1 matching tuner.  Well, it does not seem to match 
 most of my bands on the delta loop.  So, the KAT500 is not on my to-buy list 
 until I get this antenna fixed to match better.  I have a lot of ideas but I 
 am waiting for warmer and dryer weather -- good because the KAT500 should be 
 well tested by the field by then.

 73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Hystad
Don,

Thanks for the comments.  Actually I have this persistent urge to make my shack 
as much Elecraft as possible.  So, if Elecraft offers it, I generally want to 
buy it.  Therefore, in a few months I will work to modify my antenna to work 
with the KAT500.  Also, this will be done in tandem with my interest in 
creating some kind of good 160 meter solution -- right now, I have a jury 
rigged setup to operate on 160 which I rarely use because it is a hassle to set 
up each time -- it is not a permanent solution.

So, this will be the project for the warmer months -- not necessarily drier, 
just warmer.  If I wanted drier I would have to wait until August!

phil


On Dec 31, 2011, at 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Phil,
 
 You might want to try adding or subtracting some feedline - that is sure to 
 make some feedpoint impedance change.  OTOH, if you now have a working 
 system, why change?  If there is some added value to using the KAT500 over 
 what you have installed and working, then fine, look at how to best integrate 
 the KAT500 - but if what you have works to your satisfaction, then why change.
 Don't monkey with what works.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 12/31/2011 6:06 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
 Follow-up:
 
 Well, I did my own experiment.  I forgot briefly that I have a KAT3 which is 
 also described as a 10:1 matching tuner.  Well, it does not seem to match 
 most of my bands on the delta loop.  So, the KAT500 is not on my to-buy list 
 until I get this antenna fixed to match better.  I have a lot of ideas but I 
 am waiting for warmer and dryer weather -- good because the KAT500 should be 
 well tested by the field by then.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] State Of Maine Elecrafters - Can We Get Group Together For Coffee?

2011-12-31 Thread Steve Kercel
Bruce:

How about some sort of event in connection with the Andy Hamfest in 
Lewiston at the end of March?

73,

Steve
AA4AK
Brunswick ME


On 12/31/2011 4:19 PM, Bruce Howes wrote:
 I've seen a number of Maine call signs up here, with the cold weather finally 
 upon us, and Lobstercon at least 6 months away, what do you think about 
 getting together to discuss Elecraft products and radio in general?

 I'm a Elecraft builder and user, K1, K2, K3, KX1, etc.
 Also like low power portable operations, often take a portable station with 
 me when traveling.
 Other interests include boat anchors - older tube gear and restorations.

 I'm in the Midcoast, could host here, or at a convenient restaurant more 
 central to others.
 Would be nice to meet each other, talk about our projects, stations, radio 
 activities, who knows what might come out of it.
 Think about lunch, coffee, bringing along photos or some of Elecraft gear to 
 show the group, an informal introduction and show and tell.

 Interested? I'd love to hear your thoughts and ideas.
 Email me at w1...@arrl.net and I'd be happy to coordinate.

 Thanks!

 73
 Bruce J. Howes W1UJR
 www.w1ujr.net

 Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] SKN 2012

2011-12-31 Thread John Oppenheimer
On 12/31/2011 05:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 John,
 
 If you think my fully upgraded (and packed with all options for a QRP 
 K2) original Field Test K2 SN 00020 will be replaced by a KX3, you have 
 another think coming.

Hi Don, obviously, your K2 #20, same as my K2/10 #7212, fits the
Characterized by excellence, maturity, and enduring appeal; classic
category. Some day I shall have a QRP rig trophy case; presently, I have
a HW-8, IC-703, and K2/10. All three were/are well used with enduring
memories.

John
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2011-12-31 Thread Phillip Shepard

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (1/1/12) at 1800Z on 14.3035
MHz +/- QRM. I will be net control from western Oregon, and we'll try relays
to pull in the stations that I can't hear.

See you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] VHF/UHF coverage

2011-12-31 Thread Jim Lowman
What the heck, since everyone is making wishes.  Has there been any
consideration of an all-mode 222-MHz option?  That would really make
Elecraft stand out in the field even more.

Yes, I know that they offer an external transverter.  I might consider that
if there is a low-level output to drive it with the KX3.  I have a K2 
but not
the 60m/transverter interface.

Oddly, from my research, there is precious little 222 MHz activity in the
greater Los Angeles/Orange County area except during contests, and quite
a bit of that is FM simplex.  Thus, it's an expensive option, 
considering the
need for an antenna as well.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 12/30/2011 8:59 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote:
 Since Wayne indicates they're open to the possibility of 70cm,
 eventually, and some subsequent comments consider a couple approaches:

 Since there is room for both 20w HF tuner and 2m module, perhaps the
 70cm module could occupy the space for the tuner to provide 2m/70cm, or

 Perhaps a combo 2m/70cm dual-band transverter as single package, or

 A dual-band transverter as a separate piggy-back package that would
 clamp-on to the back of the KX3, thus allowing the 20w HF tuner in
 addition.  That would provide more space to obtain full 10w output for both.

 I do get the objective to have everything inside the KX3, but there
 are simply limitations to what will fit.

 Finally, a comment about the FT-817.  I was amazed to get HF-to-light
 in the FT-847 and then two years later they shrink it into a 5w
 version, wow!  It was a good radio, for its time, but did not
 encompass DSP in the initial unit.  Now the age of SDR is finally
 coming into full swing!  I am amazed to find that I will own three
 SDR once the KX3 arrives:  2007 SDR-IQ, 2009-K3, 2012-KX3.  Simply amazing!


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Re: [Elecraft] SKN 2012

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

FB on your Trophy Case.  I do not have any trophy case of past rigs.  
I do have some of my old tube receivers stowed away in the attic - I 
don't know why, but I just can't part with them and since they are 
homebrew, they are not regarded as classics to be rebuilt.
I did sell my BC-348 long ago and have regretted it, I don't know what 
happened to the SW-54 receiver I used as a novice (any questions about 
why I did not have many contacts?), and the nice homebrew transmitter I 
built for my Novice station was cannibalized for parts to be used in 
other projects (teenager with limited monetary resources).

So you see, I am not in the habit of buying gear with any mind toward 
selling it in the future, nor do I wish to put all my past homebrew 
projects on display (although that may be worthy of some consideration 
for what is left in my collection).

I do have an attachment to those things that I build, and if I have 
built them for myself, would never consider selling them.  I just keep 
them around so I can look at them once in a while and remember when.

You do not have to understand nor agree with my personal version of 
nostalgia, but as we look back (hey, it is New Year's Eve - a time for 
looking back and anticipating the future) we can enjoy our past 
accomplishments and take lessons from those things that did not turn out 
so well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 6:36 PM, John Oppenheimer wrote:
 On 12/31/2011 05:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 John,

 If you think my fully upgraded (and packed with all options for a QRP
 K2) original Field Test K2 SN 00020 will be replaced by a KX3, you have
 another think coming.
 Hi Don, obviously, your K2 #20, same as my K2/10 #7212, fits the
 Characterized by excellence, maturity, and enduring appeal; classic
 category. Some day I shall have a QRP rig trophy case; presently, I have
 a HW-8, IC-703, and K2/10. All three were/are well used with enduring
 memories.

 John
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[Elecraft] HnY

2011-12-31 Thread Lou Kolb
WA3MIX  WB3KRN have heard Big Ben bring in the new year in London so, as 
far as we're concerned, our duty is done and we can turn in at will.  Happy 
New Year to all and Thanks to Elecraft for perhaps the most fun year of 
hamming in my 42 year ham career.  Hope to work many of you in 2012.  73, 
Lou -- WA3MIX
Lou Kolb
Voice-over Artist:
Radio/TV Adds, Video narrations
Messages On-hold:
www.loukolb.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] Have orders filled up yet? Is there a cap?

2011-12-31 Thread Mike Schwendeman
I am very curious: How many orders have been placed, so far?
(I have (just) one on order...)
This is a very exciting product!  It's going to be great fun!
73;   -Mike-   KØJTA
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Re: [Elecraft] Have orders filled up yet? Is there a cap?

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

I would think that you will not get any real number from Elecraft - that 
would provide competitors information into Elecraft profitability, etc.
BUT, from what I can decipher, the number is LARGE.

Yes, I have just one on order too.

Happy New Year

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 7:19 PM, Mike Schwendeman wrote:
 I am very curious: How many orders have been placed, so far?
 (I have (just) one on order...)
 This is a very exciting product!  It's going to be great fun!
 73;   -Mike-   KØJTA

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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Alan Bloom
I don't know about the KAT500 specifically, but if a tuner is specified
at 10:1 SWR worst case, that means it should meet that spec for load
impedances of any phase angle, 0-360 degrees.  I expect it will do much
better than 10:1 at some phase angles.

Years ago when I was working at R. L. Drake, I designed the MN2700
antenna tuner.  It was specified for 5:1 SWR.  On some bands it barely
made 10 ohms at the low end but it would typically do much better than
that at other phase angles.  For example, it would match much greater
than 250 ohms resistive on most bands.

Alan N1AL


On Sat, 2011-12-31 at 12:33 -0800, Phil Hystad wrote:
 Did I read right that the forthcoming KAT500 would be able to match up to a 
 10:1 SWR?
 
 So, this should mean that the impedance range of the tuner is anywhere from 5 
 to 500 ohms (absolute value of Z).
 
 I currently use an AT1KM tuner with impedance range of 20 to 1500 ohms.  I 
 use this with a horizontal delta loop and I am able to match all of my 
 important bands that I operate on this antenna which are 80, 40, 30.  I use a 
 5-band hex beam for the other bands.
 
 But, I can easily get a good match well under 1.5:1 using the AT1KM.  But, I 
 also measured the impedance and SWR at the point that the coax hooks into the 
 AT1KM.   These measures are then of the raw, un-tuned, antenna system (coax 
 and delta loop) made with my MFJ-259B.  According to these measurements, the 
 raw impedances I need to match are more then 10:1 for some of the bands.  
 Indeed, I am close to 24:1 for the low part of 80 but I operate fine in this 
 region using the AT1KM.
 
 Should I then assume that the KAT500 will not work for me with my current 
 antenna system?  I also noticed that other auto-tuners have similar wider 
 ranges.  For example, MFJ-998 supports a matching range of 12 to 1600; and, 
 the old Palstar AT-Auto supports a matching range of 15 to 1500 (now Kessler 
 Engineering).  Apparently, the new the new Palstar HF-Auto is reported as 
 10:1 SWR which may be the same as KAT500.
 
 Therefore, can someone (Wayne, Eric or others in the know) confirm that with 
 my current antenna configuration, I will probably NOT be able to use the 
 KAT500 for 80 meters (at least).  My options I suppose are not to use the 
 KAT500 at all, not use it for 80, or reconfigure my delta loop (although, my 
 degrees of freedom for this are small).
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Transverters

2011-12-31 Thread Jim Lowman
The greater LA area is somewhat unique in that there is probably less 
repeater
usage on 440 than other parts of the country.  Most of the repeaters on that
band are closed or private.  That's a fact, not a criticism.  I've yet 
to assemble
and put up my antenna to give it a go on SSB.  Glad that I kept my 
FT-847 all
these years, with its higher power out on that band.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 12/30/2011 4:14 PM, Dyarnes wrote:
 Hi All,

 I'm glad (for some of you) that a 2 meter transverter will eventually be
 available for the KX3.  In my view, however, only having 2 meters really
 doesn't accomplish that much.  Yes, 2 meters probably still is the most
 significant VHF/UHF band, but it seems to me that 440 has become nearly
 equal, and even more important in some areas.  I don't know how much you can
 cram into the KX3, but unless I could get both 2 meters and 440 combined, it
 would still mean I have to have an alternative for those bands--it's like
 getting half a loaf.  A dual band HT does that for me.  If I need an HT for
 440, I might as well use it for 2 meters as well, and skip the transverter.
 The trade-off, of course, is not being able to utilize all modes.

 More and more, both here locally and as I travel around a bit, I find that
 440 has become quite preferential in many places.  I'm not that much into
 VHF/UHF anyway, so it's easy for me to be a bit blasé' about it.
 Nonetheless, it just seems to me that most folks who are serious about these
 bands, are probably serious about both of them (if not more), and thus are
 apt to have some sort of all mode multi-band VHF/UHF rig for that purpose.
 If you are primarily just an FM'er on those bands, as I tend to be, then
 maybe you will see my point.  I can certainly see some benefit of having 2
 meters built into the KX3, at hamfests, or operating mobile, etc., but I can
 do all I need to do with a simple dual bander, or tri-bander, many of which
 are available for less than the cost of a transverter.

 The purpose of this post is not to be critical of the KX3 accessory
 plans--not at all!  However, I guess I hope it might be food for thought to
 the folks in Watsonville about seriously considering whether or not they can
 expand the KX3 beyond just 2 meters.  If they can, that's pretty amazing!
 Wayne hinted it might be something they may consider, but he was very
 cautious about the possibility.  I'm just expressing my view as to why it
 might make sense, if it's possible at all.

 Dave W7AQK

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Kane
On 12/31/2011 11:34 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 It is just as easy to use two parallel lengths of coax with the shield 
 grounded and the balanced feedline connected to the two center 
 conductors.  That will produce a shielded balanced line that you can 
 bring into the shack just like a single coax. 

In the days when the FCC's mobile direction-finders consisted of a
rotatable Finch loop, the feedline was Twinax, two conductors within a
single shield resulting in a cable about the size of RG-11, fed into the
balanced antenna input of the receivers in use.

I don't know if the cable or its connectors are readily available these
days.
-- 
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2011-12-31 Thread kevinr

Good Evening,
Propagation has been very nice recently.  Much better than the long 
doldrums we lived through.  The sun has been active and almost gobbled a 
comet.  I wish I were in the Southern Hemisphere so I could see Comet 
Lovejoy.  Photos just cannot do justice to something like that.

Weather was great up until the day before Christmas.  Then it 
started raining.  It did not quit until last night when precipitation 
became quieter as it fell in flakes.  I awoke to a white world but that 
is mostly gone as it gets dark.  The cold pushing in from the north may 
get shoved backward by the steady stream of clouds from the Pacific.  
This means I go back to rain but have warmer temperatures.

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)

Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 5 PM PST)  7045 kHz

   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Rick Bates
Alan,

Isn't that true of most tuners, that higher impedance is tolerated (matched)
better than low impedance?  

If so, that easily explains why a 4:1 (or worse, a 9:1) balun is a bad
choice on a multiband antenna.  Such devices might lower the impedance too
much on any given band.  It might also explain why they're more lossy.

73 es HNY,
Rick WA6NHC

-Original Message-
From: Alan Bloom

On some bands it barely
made 10 ohms at the low end but it would typically do much better than
that at other phase angles.  For example, it would match much greater
than 250 ohms resistive on most bands.


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[Elecraft] Looking for a KX1

2011-12-31 Thread NZ8J
With all the talk about the KX3, I wonder if anyone is contemplating
selling their KX1, if so I would be interested. I am looking for one
that has the tuner, 80/30 meter option, paddle if possible and must be
well constructed with full power on all bands and from a non smoking
environment.. Any other accessories or options would be a plus.   If you
have something that meets these needs please send details to include
your best price shipped to zip 45324 in the first email..

Thanks and Happy New Year to all on the list.

73
Tim
NZ8J
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Hi Guy,

OK I'll own up.  I have used isolation transformers as recently as this 
year before leaving Scotland, in the feed system of a Laport Rhombic (dual 
rhomboid).  I used this antenna, aimed towards your side of the pond, to 
listen for VHF signals between 88 MHz and 148 MHz in the pious hope that a 
2m contact (terrestrial) could be made across the Atlantic.

To return to the topic of Open Wire Feeders.  The 4 wire cross-connected 
type of open wire feeder is a viable and less costly alternative to low loss 
coax, especially when used at VHF and the runs are long.  I have used this 
type of line during the past decades.

Without going into the maths or the results of controlled measurements, in 
terms of noise pickup and radiation from the feeder the 4 wire line 
provides much better performance than its 2 wire cousin. Also it is 
practical to dimension and build a 4 wire line (wire spacing etc) whose Zo 
is 200 ohms - a useful value for transforming to 50 ohms at the Tx/ Rx end 
of the line.

However on the downside this type of line should be kept under tension, 
which obviously allows the use of fewer spacers, and it does require some 
housekeeping to remove any wind blown twigs if there are trees nearby.

Happy New Year.

73,

Geoff
LX2AO


On December 31, 2011 at 8:45 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

snip


  But then, who talks about isolation transformers any more.

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Re: [Elecraft] Question about forthcoming KAT500

2011-12-31 Thread Alan Bloom
On Sat, 2011-12-31 at 17:14 -0800, Rick Bates wrote:
 Alan,
 
 Isn't that true of most tuners, that higher impedance is tolerated (matched)
 better than low impedance?  

That tends to be true, but it really depends on the particular circuit.
For an L-network, like in the Electaft tuners, matching a low impedance
requires a large variable capacitor, which tends to be physically large
and expensive.  However, the Elecraft designs use relay-switched fixed
capacitors so that might not be such a big issue.

The Drake tuners used a pi-L network.  The bandswitched input pi section
transforms 50 ohms up to a high impedance and the L section (using two
variable capacitors) brings it back down again as needed for the
particular antenna.  For that reason, it naturally tends to match high
impedances easily, at least on the higher bands.  The bandswitched pi-L
topology has the advantage of better filtering and it is easier to tune
manually, at the expense of a smaller tuning range.

Alan N1AL


 If so, that easily explains why a 4:1 (or worse, a 9:1) balun is a bad
 choice on a multiband antenna.  Such devices might lower the impedance too
 much on any given band.  It might also explain why they're more lossy.
 
 73 es HNY,
 Rick WA6NHC
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Alan Bloom
 
 On some bands it barely
 made 10 ohms at the low end but it would typically do much better than
 that at other phase angles.  For example, it would match much greater
 than 250 ohms resistive on most bands.
 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] [FT817] Vs ELECRAFT

2011-12-31 Thread Eugene Worth
SRI for Off-Topic

You are correct, but something very similar has been done … in the distant past 
… with a different email discussion group … 


http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2233588/pdf/procamiaafs1-0362.pdf

For bedtime reading should you have interest.

72!

gene
WG7GW

 Message: 31
 Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2011 06:34:07 -0800
 From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [FT817] Vs  ELECRAFT
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: 4efdcbdf.6090...@foothill.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 There is, at the very least, a Master's Thesis, and likely a PhD 
 dissertation on the social sciences and psychology buried in the 
 archives of this list :-)
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
 - www.cqp.org
 
 On 12/29/2011 11:35 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote:
 Ahhh you know it was bound to happen: FT817 vs KX3 and nobody outside
 of Elecraft even has a KX3 , yet!
 

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Jim Brown
On 12/31/2011 9:42 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 My first rule is to use balanced antennas - off center fed antennas are
 famous for feedline radiation and RF in the shack.

RIGHT!  Some important fundamental principles here.

1) A two wire line will be balanced ONLY if what is connected at each 
end is balanced.

2) Any imbalance in the antenna or the turner will cause un-equal 
currents in the two conductors. The DIFFERENCE between those two 
currents is called common mode current, and it will radiate, just like 
the current on the outside of coax.  Feeding an antenna off-center 
creates a LOT of imbalance, which, as Don has said, puts a lot of common 
mode current on the line, and thus a lot of RF in the shack.

3) Most practical ham antennas, even those that we try to build as 
balanced antennas, like center-fed dipoles, are unbalanced a bit by 
their surroundings -- trees, buildings, unequal height, sloping ground 
under the antenna, etc.

4) This unbalance may not hurt the antenna's performance too much, but 
because antennas work essentially the same on both TX and RX, that 
feedline picks up noise and couples it to the receiver.  THAT'S why we 
need a really good common mode choke at the feedpoint of ANY antenna.

There's another HUGE problem with off-center-fed antennas -- the 
unbalanced current on the feedline -- ANY feedline, including any form 
of parallel wire line -- can be quite large, and can easily cause even a 
very good common mode choke to fail with high power.

73, Jim Brown K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a KX1

2011-12-31 Thread Phillip Nichols
I was looking for one as well earlier - especially if someone offered a 
discount as this would be going for a Kids amateur Radio Club (see WK1RK 
on QRZ).

Actually, if someone donated a complete K1 - they would be just as 
happy. someone gave them an MFJ cub and 9220. Neither is performing well 
enough in our area for the  kids to have fun. I am going to sell some of 
my own stuff and get a KX3 to replace our home QRP gear. But anyone 
willing to help out these kids for their club. Check them on QRZ and 
their website (to see who else has donated and what).

72/73,
Phillip(N8AYE)
-.  ---..  .-  -.--  .
SKCC# 7040
FIST#  13390
NAQCC#  4930
QRParci# 14214





NZ8J said the following on 12/31/2011 8:57 PM:
 With all the talk about the KX3, I wonder if anyone is contemplating
 selling their KX1, if so I would be interested. I am looking for one
 that has the tuner, 80/30 meter option, paddle if possible and must be
 well constructed with full power on all bands and from a non smoking
 environment.. Any other accessories or options would be a plus.   If you
 have something that meets these needs please send details to include
 your best price shipped to zip 45324 in the first email..

 Thanks and Happy New Year to all on the list.

 73
 Tim
 NZ8J
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Sandy
The only LARGE problem that rears it's ugly head is a large amount of 
inductive or capacitive reactance often times present that the actual balun 
has to cope with.  This dissipates power no mater what the VSWR on the open 
wire line happens to be.  You WILL NOT be transforming a 50 ohm line to a 
200 ohm line (4:1 transformer) OR a 50 ohm line to a 450 ohm line (9:1) 
There will be always some reactance present.  If you run higher power 
(500-1000 watts or more) this may actually ultimately destroy the balun 
transformer itself!  This effect doesn't seem to be as radical with choke 
type (ferrite beads over a run of coax) compared to a transformer type 
balun.  I think you would be better off in the long run, in this instance 
with a choke type balun and use a coupler between to rig power source 
and the load Choke balun/ladder line/open wire feeder.  The idea is to 
keep the coax part as short as possible and let the tuner deal with the 
oddball reactances that occur on the line.

Over the years I have had troubles and seen other with same syndrome trying 
to let a transformer balun compensate for a impedance transformation under 
the duress of a HIGH reactance present which seems to destroy things 
eventually, AND radiate less useful power rather than it would other wise if 
the reactance was tuned out.

I hope I am making myself clear.  In my old setup before my XYL had a 
stroke, causing me to stop using a homebrewed balance line tuner (ladder 
line feeder entering the shack directly) worked most effectively.  The 
dipole was 135' long at 50' and fed with about 110 feet of 450 ohm ladder 
line.  I am unable to erect a similar antenna from the master bedroom where 
the rig is now and had to resort to using an end fed wire again.

73,

Sandy W5TVW

-Original Message- 
From: Robert G. Strickland
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 12:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

Don...

Many hams - as I have done/do - use coax to get out of the house,
connect it to a balun, and then connect twinlead from the balun to an
antenna. There is a lot of commentary on this setup, but perhaps another
time through would be helpful. The questions arise:
- if the coax is short, say under ten feet, is this setup more or less
equivalent to running the twinlead all the way from the antenna to the
transmitter?
- again, if the coax is short, will RG8 or 213 be sufficient to the task?
- is there any advantage of one balun ratio to another [1:1, 4:1, 9:1]?

Happy New Year, and thanks for your contributions here on the Elecraft
reflector.

...robert

On 12/31/2011 17:42, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 George,

 Short question, long answer follows --

 Do to constraints at home, I no longer use open wire or ladder line
 feeders, but when I did use them, I found several things were true if
 you did not want them to radiate (and create RF in the Shack).
 My first rule is to use balanced antennas - off center fed antennas are
 famous for feedline radiation and RF in the shack.
 The second rule is to run the feedline away from the antenna at right
 angles for as great a length as you can manage, but certainly for a
 quarterwavelength - The feedline can pick up radiation from the antenna
 if this rule is not followed.
 Third is to run the feedline correctly - use nice gentle bends if you
 must change direction, support it using as few hangers as possible (if
 you can put the feedline under tension, you can get away with very few
 supports) but support it so it is stable even in the wind.  Do not run
 it parallel to other conductors, but you may cross a conductor at right
 angles if necessary.  The line should be spaced away from other objects
 by at least 3 times the spacing of the conductors.

 Lastly, If I could, use a true balanced tuner, link coupled is best, so
 if you see a Johnson Matchbox at a hamfest, get it.  If you must use an
 unbalanced tuner, use a good balun at the output (see K9AY's info on
 baluns).  BTW, do not assume that a 4:1 balun is the thing to use, the
 feedpoint impedance in the shack can vary wildly from very low to very 
 high.

 If you do encounter a high impedance feedpoint on any band, that will
 place a high RF voltage point at the shack end - add or subtract some
 feedline to bring the feedpoint impedance down.
 If you do not understand how the  feedpoint impedance changes with the
 length, take a look at the Antenna article on my website www.w3fpr.com

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 12/31/2011 11:25 AM, w2b...@aol.com wrote:
 Those of you using open wire feed lines. How do you keep RF out of the
 shack? 73 George/W2BPI K2/100

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-- 
Robert G. 

Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a KX1

2011-12-31 Thread Fred Jensen
On 12/31/2011 6:48 PM, Phillip Nichols wrote:
 I was looking for one as well earlier - especially if someone offered a
 discount as this would be going for a Kids amateur Radio Club (see WK1RK
 on QRZ).

Mine's for sale.  40/30/20 w/ATU and paddle.  I'll throw in my ear buds 
for free.  $1,200.  PayPal works, shipping included.

And if you get the idea I don't want to sell my KX1, congratulations, 
but for enough I'd easily be tempted.  I really enjoy this little 
handheld. :-)

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a KX1

2011-12-31 Thread Rich NU6T
Well, someone's feeling their oats
Rich
NU6T
grin

On 12/31/2011 7:07 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
 On 12/31/2011 6:48 PM, Phillip Nichols wrote:
 I was looking for one as well earlier - especially if someone offered a
 discount as this would be going for a Kids amateur Radio Club (see WK1RK
 on QRZ).
 Mine's for sale.  40/30/20 w/ATU and paddle.  I'll throw in my ear buds
 for free.  $1,200.  PayPal works, shipping included.

 And if you get the idea I don't want to sell my KX1, congratulations,
 but for enough I'd easily be tempted.  I really enjoy this little
 handheld. :-)

 73,

 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
 - www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Ken G Kopp
(:-))  I actually have a few Twinax connectors, both male and female.
Same as PL-259 / SO-239's, except two pins.

HAPPY NEW YEAR, and ...

73!
Ken

On Sun, Jan 1, 2012 at 12:41 AM, Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org wrote:
 On 12/31/2011 11:34 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 It is just as easy to use two parallel lengths of coax with the shield
 grounded and the balanced feedline connected to the two center
 conductors.  That will produce a shielded balanced line that you can
 bring into the shack just like a single coax.

 In the days when the FCC's mobile direction-finders consisted of a
 rotatable Finch loop, the feedline was Twinax, two conductors within a
 single shield resulting in a cable about the size of RG-11, fed into the
 balanced antenna input of the receivers in use.

 I don't know if the cable or its connectors are readily available these
 days.
 --
 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
 Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
 Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a KX1

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Hystad
I love my KX1 with the 80/30 option and the T1 tuner.  I would not give it up 
for anything.  OK, I will but only for the pleasure of building the kit again.  
I highly recommend that you consider the KX1 kit, it is a fun evening time task 
putting that together.

73, phil, K7PEH

On Dec 31, 2011, at 5:57 PM, NZ8J wrote:

 With all the talk about the KX3, I wonder if anyone is contemplating
 selling their KX1, if so I would be interested. I am looking for one
 that has the tuner, 80/30 meter option, paddle if possible and must be
 well constructed with full power on all bands and from a non smoking
 environment.. Any other accessories or options would be a plus.   If you
 have something that meets these needs please send details to include
 your best price shipped to zip 45324 in the first email..
 
 Thanks and Happy New Year to all on the list.
 
 73
 Tim
 NZ8J
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[Elecraft] Single Band 40 Meter Dipole

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Hystad
OK, lots of discussion on open wire feeders and other ideas so I thought I 
would throw out a question to soak up some of the Elecraft community knowledge 
and wisdom.

Given a 40-meter dipole antenna, up about 50 feet, what is the best feed 
configuration for single band usage to minimize loss and minimize common mode 
currents and radiation from the feed line?

I am thinking of building such an antenna and I would have no plans for using 
it on any other band but I would like to use it on the full spectrum of 40 
meters with primary focus on the low end for CW.

My current idea is to cut the antenna for 7.1 MHz but I am not sure about the 
best plan to feed it.  I am thinking of 450 ohm window line (aka ladder line) 
to a 1:1 balun and the coax the rest of the way into the shack.  Or, how about 
300 ohm twin lead into a 6:1 balun with coax the rest of the way into the 
shack?  Would this be a significant difference?  Or, some other combination?

Or, maybe a 1:1 balun right at the antenna feed point with coax the remaining 
distance to the shack?

Any comments or suggestions?

I am thinking of also raising up two other dipoles.  I have room to put up 80, 
40, and 30 as separate dipole antennas -- it is actually a little bit more 
awkward to do a fan dipole so I am leaning on not doing that.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] VHF/UHF coverage

2011-12-31 Thread Edward R. Cole
Jim,

Adding VHF+ frequencies to a HF/6m radio has nearly always been some 
kind of transverter.  Afterall most modern receivers (transceivers) 
are based on the superhetrodyne design, which mixes down to a low 
enough IF for proper filtering/detection of the signal.  A 
transceiver is just a single stage of mixing up/down (usually).

Then all of a sudden we are making direct-conversions radios, 
again, only they also do conversion to digital and we call them SDR's 
(because filtering, noise reduction, and demodulation is done better 
in the digital world).  I would say the KX3 IS that all the way to 
54-MHz? (since I have to guess - not seeing a block diagram).  A the 
present state of the art operating higher in frequency requires 
conversion (mixing) down the base SDR frequency (aka 50-54).  It 
won't be long until direct conversion SDR will operate to 1296 (does 
anyone remember 8-MHz cpu clocks?).

Whether the conversion (transverter) is done inside one case or an 
add-on it still is a transverter.

So all it really takes is the willingness to make one for whatever 
band, be it 144, 222, 432, or ...???

In fact it is really a business decision.  Is there a market?  Is 
there competition?  What is the return on investment (ROI)?
The 220 (and now 222-MHz) band has always been a orphan band 
because it is not a world-wide amateur radio allocation.  That means 
the market is smaller (ergo ROI is smaller).

It sort of like that decision we as hams make whether to spend money 
on equipment for a band with little activity!  What it the ROI for 
buying such?  How much fun per buck?

Well, I will say if we based all of our ham decisions totally on ROI, 
we would not have opened up the upper highs above 200m a century 
ago.  Someone has to be first, and hope that others will be 
interested in following.

I am just finishing my 222-28 transverter which will connect to the 
two 11-element 220 yagi's I put up in Nov. 2008.  This to talk to 
possibly a half-dozen stations 70-miles away (closest 222 
activity).  That amounts to about $60 per initial QSO (just on the 
transverter cost).  The total ham pop in Alaska is 3800 and over half 
only do HF.  Probably there are several times that in LA, alone!

I would guess Elecraft is forward looking enough that you may 
(eventually) get your wish for adding 222 to the KX3.  Look how quick 
they responded to desire for 144.

(BTW don't even ask me what my ROI is for the $8,000 dish I put up 
for 1296-eme; better one is the one contact on 10-GHz in AK).  In 
fact eme is the justification for my spending very much on such 
esoteric bands; I have the whole world to work.

PS:  My understanding is that the power level of the KX3 is 
adjustable down quite low making transverter interface possible.  It 
still might require adding attenuation on transmit.


---
What the heck, since everyone is making wishes.  Has there been any
consideration of an all-mode 222-MHz option?  That would really make
Elecraft stand out in the field even more.

Yes, I know that they offer an external transverter.  I might consider that
if there is a low-level output to drive it with the KX3.  I have a K2
but not
the 60m/transverter interface.

Oddly, from my research, there is precious little 222 MHz activity in the
greater Los Angeles/Orange County area except during contests, and quite
a bit of that is FM simplex.  Thus, it's an expensive option,
considering the
need for an antenna as well.

73 de Jim - AD6CW



73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] open wire feeders

2011-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm
Sandy,

Take the information on K9YC's balun comments to heart.  Jim has done a 
wonderful job of measuring the isolation effect of baluns (more 
specifically common mode chokes).

Yes, the reactive and resistive components of the feedpoint impedance 
play a large part in how the whole system reacts, but that can be varied 
with a change in the feedline length (see antenna article at 
www.w3fpr.com).  Keep the feedpoint impedance within range and all will 
be well for baluns, tuners and all other parts of the antenna system.

Keep in mind that the length of an unmatched feedline is critical to the 
success or failure of such a system.  That is a factor that is seldom 
mentioned in posts that say a particular antenna works well and loads 
well - the simple fact is that the feedline type an length are critical 
elements in that antenna system - to say that a 100 foot dipole works 
great is not sufficient, one needs to state the type and length of the 
feedline as well as the length of the antenna.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2011 9:59 PM, Sandy wrote:
 The only LARGE problem that rears it's ugly head is a large amount of
 inductive or capacitive reactance often times present that the actual balun
 has to cope with.  This dissipates power no mater what the VSWR on the open
 wire line happens to be.  You WILL NOT be transforming a 50 ohm line to a
 200 ohm line (4:1 transformer) OR a 50 ohm line to a 450 ohm line (9:1)
 There will be always some reactance present.  If you run higher power
 (500-1000 watts or more) this may actually ultimately destroy the balun
 transformer itself!  This effect doesn't seem to be as radical with choke
 type (ferrite beads over a run of coax) compared to a transformer type
 balun.  I think you would be better off in the long run, in this instance
 with a choke type balun and use a coupler between to rig power source
 and the load Choke balun/ladder line/open wire feeder.  The idea is to
 keep the coax part as short as possible and let the tuner deal with the
 oddball reactances that occur on the line.

 Over the years I have had troubles and seen other with same syndrome trying
 to let a transformer balun compensate for a impedance transformation under
 the duress of a HIGH reactance present which seems to destroy things
 eventually, AND radiate less useful power rather than it would other wise if
 the reactance was tuned out.

 I hope I am making myself clear.  In my old setup before my XYL had a
 stroke, causing me to stop using a homebrewed balance line tuner (ladder
 line feeder entering the shack directly) worked most effectively.  The
 dipole was 135' long at 50' and fed with about 110 feet of 450 ohm ladder
 line.  I am unable to erect a similar antenna from the master bedroom where
 the rig is now and had to resort to using an end fed wire again.

 73,

 Sandy W5TVW

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Re: [Elecraft] Single Band 40 Meter Dipole

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Hystad
OK,  Is the current mode choke a product or a homebrew thing by K9YC?  


On Dec 31, 2011, at 9:32 PM, Jim Miller wrote:

 Coax to the feed point and a CM choke per K9YC right there as well. RG8x 
 would be my choice. 
 
 73
 
 Jim ab3cv

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Re: [Elecraft] Single Band 40 Meter Dipole

2011-12-31 Thread Phil Hystad
Or, is that a common mode choke you mean?


On Dec 31, 2011, at 9:35 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

 OK,  Is the current mode choke a product or a homebrew thing by K9YC?  
 
 
 On Dec 31, 2011, at 9:32 PM, Jim Miller wrote:
 
 Coax to the feed point and a CM choke per K9YC right there as well. RG8x 
 would be my choice. 
 
 73
 
 Jim ab3cv
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [FT817] Vs ELECRAFT

2011-12-31 Thread Ariel Jacala
Enough bashing of the FT817 (hi hi) I just qso'd with a 14 yr old extra class 
op during SKN running a straight key on 5 watts - count your blessings with 
whatever you have - it is the experience that counts.  Happy NEW Year!!!



Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 31, 2011, at 9:27 PM, Eugene Worth ewo...@spamcop.net wrote:

 SRI for Off-Topic
 
 You are correct, but something very similar has been done … in the distant 
 past … with a different email discussion group … 
 
 
 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2233588/pdf/procamiaafs1-0362.pdf
 
 For bedtime reading should you have interest.
 
 72!
 
 gene
 WG7GW
 
 Message: 31
 Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2011 06:34:07 -0800
 From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [FT817] Vs  ELECRAFT
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: 4efdcbdf.6090...@foothill.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 There is, at the very least, a Master's Thesis, and likely a PhD 
 dissertation on the social sciences and psychology buried in the 
 archives of this list :-)
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
 - www.cqp.org
 
 On 12/29/2011 11:35 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote:
 Ahhh you know it was bound to happen: FT817 vs KX3 and nobody outside
 of Elecraft even has a KX3 , yet!
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] losing FP buttons, one or two at a time

2011-12-31 Thread Steve Ward
For the benefit of the list, at the suggestion of several folks here I 
removed the FP and cleaned the contacts with Deoxit.  Re-assembled and 
all keys/buttons now work perfectly.

It appears to me that it might have been a good investment to use 
gold-plated header pins and sockets for the front panel instead of 
tin-plated...

73,

Steve
AD7OG
K3 #1544
P3 #1444
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