Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Jan,

What is your antenna. There has been an ongoing thread on the SteppIR site
regarding this identical problem with many types of transceivers, not just
the K3. If you have a SteppIR antenna (any model) you should take a look at
their Yahoo site.

73,
Mike K2MK


Jan Ditzian wrote
> I am having a problem with T/R switching in my K3.  The symptom is that, 
> after I transmit, the receive signals are sometimes very attenuated.  
> This problem has gotten worse.  At first, simply a quick tap on the PTT 
> switch fixed everything, but now, at least on phone, I must make a brief 
> additional transmission to get the receive to return.  Today, the 
> problem got worse, and sometimes I have to really fuss with things to 
> get receive back.  Here are some questions:
> 
>  1. Is there a T/R relay in the K3, and does this sound like it is
> sticking, at least to the extent that it does not make good contact
> on receive?
>  2. Has anyone had the similar problem, and what was the solution?
>  3. If it is a relay, can it be replaced easily, or is this a return to
> Elecraft situation?
>  4. If it is simply a relay replacement, where is the relay located?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Jan, KX2A





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[Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Jack Chomley]

Tonight I have been experimenting on PSK31 at 3 watts and 5 watts. In my shack 
the OSC Temp is about 38 deg and transmitting my CQ call about every 60 seconds 
@ 3 watts takes the OSC Temp to 39 deg, on RX it drops back to 38 deg.
At 5 watts it goes up to 41 deg, but immediately settles back to 38 deg.
My question is, what would the estimated frequency change be, per degree of OSC 
Temp change? I am trying to work out the total freq shift between the start and 
the end of my PSK31 transmission.
Now, I have not done the OSC temp compensation routine to my radio. Trying not 
to go down this road in case I make a hash of it :-)
In closing, I will not be using WSPR or JT65 etc with this radio.


73,

Jack VK4JRC

Club.www.cqara.org.au
Member WIA SARL ARRL 
GQRP   #14392
QRPARCI #15068
VKQRP.#833
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Don Wilhelm]

I can't answer your question without measuring your particular KX3, and 
about the only thing I can do is quote the specification of +/- 1 ppm 
over 0 to 50 degC.  You can better that with the Temp Compensation.


I don't think doing the Temperature Compensation will make a 'hash' of 
anything, but if you have such fears, save the configuration before you 
do that.  It is a time consuming process, but it is not difficult.  Plan 
about 2 hours to accomplish that process - you don't even have to open 
the KX3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2014 8:59 AM, Jack Chomley wrote:

Tonight I have been experimenting on PSK31 at 3 watts and 5 watts. In my shack 
the OSC Temp is about 38 deg and transmitting my CQ call about every 60 seconds 
@ 3 watts takes the OSC Temp to 39 deg, on RX it drops back to 38 deg.
At 5 watts it goes up to 41 deg, but immediately settles back to 38 deg.
My question is, what would the estimated frequency change be, per degree of OSC 
Temp change? I am trying to work out the total freq shift between the start and 
the end of my PSK31 transmission.
Now, I have not done the OSC temp compensation routine to my radio. Trying not 
to go down this road in case I make a hash of it :-)



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Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

[Phil Hystad]

I have a similar (close but not identical to symptoms below) problem with
K3 receive attenuation.  I do not have a SteppIR and this same problem occurred
on more than one antenna (80-meter dipole, Traffie Hex Beam).

My symptoms were that when I turned on the radio in the morning, the band
per the display on the P3 was flat, virtually no "visible" signals.  No matter
as I was doing my morning reading with my coffee.

Later, I went to the radio and there should have been some good activity
on 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10.  I did have signals but no where near as much
as I think there should have been.  I thought maybe the KAT500 was out
of tune so I fooled with that, Xmitted tune and so on and no real change.

I checked everything I could think of such as change in PRE setting (I was
on PRE), Attenuation (no, was not), and so on.

Finally, I tried the old computer programming trick, turn it off and turn it
on again.

When the K3 came back up the bands were crowded with signals.  So, there
was some significant attenuation going on but turning off (front panel 
switch only) the K3 and turning it back on fixed everything.

Ideas, comments??  Oh, this has happened only that one time so far.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Mar 26, 2014, at 4:14 AM, Mike K2MK  wrote:

> Hi Jan,
> 
> What is your antenna. There has been an ongoing thread on the SteppIR site
> regarding this identical problem with many types of transceivers, not just
> the K3. If you have a SteppIR antenna (any model) you should take a look at
> their Yahoo site.
> 
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
> 
> 
> Jan Ditzian wrote
>> I am having a problem with T/R switching in my K3.  The symptom is that, 
>> after I transmit, the receive signals are sometimes very attenuated.  
>> This problem has gotten worse.  At first, simply a quick tap on the PTT 
>> switch fixed everything, but now, at least on phone, I must make a brief 
>> additional transmission to get the receive to return.  Today, the 
>> problem got worse, and sometimes I have to really fuss with things to 
>> get receive back.  Here are some questions:
>> 
>> 1. Is there a T/R relay in the K3, and does this sound like it is
>>sticking, at least to the extent that it does not make good contact
>>on receive?
>> 2. Has anyone had the similar problem, and what was the solution?
>> 3. If it is a relay, can it be replaced easily, or is this a return to
>>Elecraft situation?
>> 4. If it is simply a relay replacement, where is the relay located?
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>> Jan, KX2A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T-R-switching-problem-tp7585979p7585987.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

[Jan]

The T/R problem has occurred with different antennas.  However, there 
are several interconnecting coax cables in the line, and these do not 
change.  All are soldered, but they are quite old, and 
home-constructed.  I suspect that if it is a cable problem, it is in the 
shack.  I will pursue this line of investigation and report back.


Thanks to those who have helped me to take a step forward on this problem.

73,

Jan, KX2A


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Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

[Dick Dievendorff]

Jan: 

I've had this problem several times over the years. Intermittent quiet
during Rx, tap the key to send a squirt of RF and the band livens up. For a
while.

When I first encountered this, my first suspicion was a 40 meter only
problem with my ICOM transceiver. My tower climbing buddy just moved
slightly and retightened all the cable clamps on the linear loading wires of
my 40 meter beam and the problem went away. (I've since replaced that
antenna).

One time it was a loose coaxial cable connector.

It's hard to find these. They might require certain temperature or humidity
or wind or ... to re-create.

I have a number of connectors between the radio and the antennas. Sometimes
I can isolate the behavior to one band or another, and that helps me locate
where in my switching arrangement the problem might lie.

The K3 (and KPA500, and KXPA100) use solid state devices for T/R switching,
and tend to have "working fine" or "not working at all" behavior.

73 de Dick, K6KR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jan
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 7:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

The T/R problem has occurred with different antennas.  However, there are
several interconnecting coax cables in the line, and these do not change.
All are soldered, but they are quite old, and home-constructed.  I suspect
that if it is a cable problem, it is in the shack.  I will pursue this line
of investigation and report back.

Thanks to those who have helped me to take a step forward on this problem.

73,

Jan, KX2A


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: New soldering station needed

[Mark Goldberg]

I have a Hakko FX-888, works great, looks like a kids toy. I have a variety
of tips, large screwdriver to very small conical and have done everything
from AWG4 lugs to SOT23 SMTs, leaded and lead free solder. Temp adjustable
and very good heat and recovery. I have also used a Metcal and like the
Hakka just as much. Lots of tips available.

Mark
W7MLG
 On Mar 24, 2014 3:44 PM, "Cady, Fred"  wrote:

> Hi all,
> My venerable and aged Weller EC2000 solder station has given up the ghost.
>  Anybody have any suggestions of a good replacement - temperature
> controlled 300 - 800 degrees or so, digital display, a range of tips.  I
> have done, but don't do as a practice, surface mount projects.
> Thoughts? Your favorites?
> Thanks and 73,
> Fred KE7X
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Jim Bennett]

Jack, 

My KX3 #5539 is used on and off for PSK31 and JT9 / JT65. I've made a bunch of 
JT65 and JT9 QSO's with it on 80, 20, and 10 meters, in addition to quite a few 
PSK31 contacts on several bands. That being said, I did do the temperature 
compensation procedure before I started doing data JT9 and JT65 modes with the 
KX3. As Don said, it is a very easy procedure, but just set aside about 90 - 
120 minutes to complete it. The only tools you need are (1) a refrigerator, and 
(2) a hair dryer. :-)

73, Jim / W6JHB


On   Wednesday, Mar 26, 2014, at  Wednesday, 5:59 AM, Jack Chomley wrote:

> Tonight I have been experimenting on PSK31 at 3 watts and 5 watts. In my 
> shack the OSC Temp is about 38 deg and transmitting my CQ call about every 60 
> seconds @ 3 watts takes the OSC Temp to 39 deg, on RX it drops back to 38 deg.
> At 5 watts it goes up to 41 deg, but immediately settles back to 38 deg.
> My question is, what would the estimated frequency change be, per degree of 
> OSC Temp change? I am trying to work out the total freq shift between the 
> start and the end of my PSK31 transmission.
> Now, I have not done the OSC temp compensation routine to my radio. Trying 
> not to go down this road in case I make a hash of it :-)
> In closing, I will not be using WSPR or JT65 etc with this radio.
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Jack VK4JRC
> 
> Club.www.cqara.org.au
> Member WIA SARL ARRL 
> GQRP   #14392
> QRPARCI #15068
> VKQRP.#833
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: New soldering station needed

[Josh Fiden]

If I wanted to be prepared for whatever comes along, I'd get a large and 
small chisel, plus small conical for SMD. For example:


5.2mm chisel T15-D52
1.2mm chisel T15-D12
0.2mm conical T15-BLL

The long slender snoot on that conical makes it easier to see an SMD 
part underneath. The D24/2.4mm chisel is also nice if you want something 
big enough to hit a larger through hole tab, but you don't want to swap 
tips to get into a tight space.


The colored sleeves are also nice. You can hot swap tips and the bright 
colors (orange, green, blue, etc) mean you can quickly grab the size you 
want without close inspection. Those are part# B321x, where x specifies 
the color.


73,
Josh W6XU

On 3/25/2014 6:14 PM, Phil & Debbie Salas wrote:

What tip or tips do you recommend?  They have a 4mm chisel, a 5.2mm chisel, and 
a conical.
Thanks,
Phil – AD5X



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[Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Slava Baytalskiy]

Hello everyone!
I have a Signalink USB box that I'd like to interface with my new K3. From what 
I understand the preferred connection method is via the rear Line-In/Out jacks, 
right? I am using those with my rack audio gear, though (xlr mic/EQ/mixer/etc). 
What would you guys suggest that I do?
Can/should I use the front mic connector (it is the standard Kenwood 8-pin 
pinout, right?). Or is it possible to connect the Signalink inline with the 
audio stuff, between the rack and the K3?
Also, I have a new LP-PAN with an E-mu 0404 sound card that I haven't connected 
yet. So I wonder if that can somehow be used for the Signalink. 

I also have an iPlus box (FYI). 
Thanks in advance for your suggestions and ideas!

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Ian Kahn - Ham]

Sal,

When I had a SignaLink connected to my K3, I had the Kenwood cable set for
the SignaLink.  It connected as follows:

-USB from computer to SignaLink
-Cable from SignaLink to K3 rear panel Line-In and Line-Out, as
appropriately marked.

Now I just use stereo cables directly from the sound card on my PC into the
rear panel Line-In and Line-Out on the K3.  I route K3 line-out to computer
line-in and K3 line-in to computer line-out.

I'm not familiar with the other audio equipment you're using, so can't
venture a comment there.

Hope this helps.

73 es gl de

--Ian 
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688, KPA500 #1468
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Slava Baytalskiy
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 12:37 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

Hello everyone!
I have a Signalink USB box that I'd like to interface with my new K3. From
what I understand the preferred connection method is via the rear
Line-In/Out jacks, right? I am using those with my rack audio gear, though
(xlr mic/EQ/mixer/etc). What would you guys suggest that I do?
Can/should I use the front mic connector (it is the standard Kenwood 8-pin
pinout, right?). Or is it possible to connect the Signalink inline with the
audio stuff, between the rack and the K3?
Also, I have a new LP-PAN with an E-mu 0404 sound card that I haven't
connected yet. So I wonder if that can somehow be used for the Signalink. 

I also have an iPlus box (FYI). 
Thanks in advance for your suggestions and ideas!

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Don Wilhelm]

Slava,

Yes, you should be able to use the front mic jack.  Set the SignaLink 
for mic level output rather than line level (see the SignaLink 
documentation).  Turn bias off for the front mic.


It is feasible that you could feed the SignaLink into your audio rack, 
but it should not run through any of the conditioning mechanisms.  If 
you do that, you would want to kill all other inputs to your audio rack 
and just run the SignaLink 'straight through' to the Line In on the K3.  
Whether that is possible or not depends on the capabilities of your mixer.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2014 12:36 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

Hello everyone!
I have a Signalink USB box that I'd like to interface with my new K3. From what 
I understand the preferred connection method is via the rear Line-In/Out jacks, 
right? I am using those with my rack audio gear, though (xlr mic/EQ/mixer/etc). 
What would you guys suggest that I do?
Can/should I use the front mic connector (it is the standard Kenwood 8-pin 
pinout, right?). Or is it possible to connect the Signalink inline with the 
audio stuff, between the rack and the K3?
Also, I have a new LP-PAN with an E-mu 0404 sound card that I haven't connected 
yet. So I wonder if that can somehow be used for the Signalink.

I also have an iPlus box (FYI).
Thanks in advance for your suggestions and ideas!

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Re: T/R switching problem

[Toby Pennington]

The only time I have experienced some amount of attenuation on receive 
is when I was using some other amplifier besides the KPA 500.


I found I had to totally disconnect all my cabling between the amplifier 
and the rig.   Since I am using the K line completely, trying to use an 
external amp other than the KPA 500  can be done without disconnecting  
all the cabling,  but on receive you will experience attenuation of the 
receive signals.  To have full receive using another brand of amp,  you 
will have to remove the data transfer cabling between the rig and amp. 
   I hope I have this right,  as it has been some time since I 
experimented with using an amp with more output than the KPA 500.


Toby  K4NH


 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem
Date:   Wed, 26 Mar 2014 06:53:18 -0700
From:   Phil Hystad 
To: Mike K2MK 
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net



I have a similar (close but not identical to symptoms below) problem with
K3 receive attenuation.  I do not have a SteppIR and this same problem occurred
on more than one antenna (80-meter dipole, Traffie Hex Beam).

My symptoms were that when I turned on the radio in the morning, the band
per the display on the P3 was flat, virtually no "visible" signals.  No matter
as I was doing my morning reading with my coffee.

Later, I went to the radio and there should have been some good activity
on 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10.  I did have signals but no where near as much
as I think there should have been.  I thought maybe the KAT500 was out
of tune so I fooled with that, Xmitted tune and so on and no real change.

I checked everything I could think of such as change in PRE setting (I was
on PRE), Attenuation (no, was not), and so on.

Finally, I tried the old computer programming trick, turn it off and turn it
on again.

When the K3 came back up the bands were crowded with signals.  So, there
was some significant attenuation going on but turning off (front panel
switch only) the K3 and turning it back on fixed everything.

Ideas, comments??  Oh, this has happened only that one time so far.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Mar 26, 2014, at 4:14 AM, Mike K2MK  wrote:


Hi Jan,

What is your antenna. There has been an ongoing thread on the SteppIR site
regarding this identical problem with many types of transceivers, not just
the K3. If you have a SteppIR antenna (any model) you should take a look at
their Yahoo site.

73,
Mike K2MK


Jan Ditzian wrote

I am having a problem with T/R switching in my K3.  The symptom is that,
after I transmit, the receive signals are sometimes very attenuated.
This problem has gotten worse.  At first, simply a quick tap on the PTT
switch fixed everything, but now, at least on phone, I must make a brief
additional transmission to get the receive to return.  Today, the
problem got worse, and sometimes I have to really fuss with things to
get receive back.  Here are some questions:

1. Is there a T/R relay in the K3, and does this sound like it is
   sticking, at least to the extent that it does not make good contact
   on receive?
2. Has anyone had the similar problem, and what was the solution?
3. If it is a relay, can it be replaced easily, or is this a return to
   Elecraft situation?
4. If it is simply a relay replacement, where is the relay located?

Thank you,

Jan, KX2A






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Re: [Elecraft] OT: New soldering station needed

[Dick Green WC1M]

The FX-951 features look great and I'm considering one to replace my old
Weller EC2001 with EC1201A pencil. Tips are hard to find for that model
these days.

What FX-951 tips work well for SMD parts? Mostly I solder/desolder
components with leads, but occasionally I need to solder or desolder SMD
chips and flat packs (I think that's the name for discreet components.) In
addition to the Weller EC2001/ EC1201A, I have a Hakko 808 desolder gun. I
can sort of muddle my way through with one of those and manual tweezers, and
have used ChipQuik to with some success to desolder SMD ICs, but the tips I
have for the EC1201A aren't small enough and the desolder gun tip is
sometimes too big or overkill for SMD chips with a lot of leads.

It looks like Hakko doesn't offer desolder tweezers for the FX-951, but I
don't know if desolder tweezers would really improve things or be worth it
for my occasional SMD requirements. There's a desolder tweezer for the
FX-888D, but I prefer the features of the FX-951.

73, Dick WC1M

> -Original Message-
> From: Mark Goldberg [mailto:marklgoldb...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: Cady, Fred
> Cc: Elecraft Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: New soldering station needed
> 
> I have a Hakko FX-888, works great, looks like a kids toy. I have a
variety of tips,
> large screwdriver to very small conical and have done everything from AWG4
> lugs to SOT23 SMTs, leaded and lead free solder. Temp adjustable and very
> good heat and recovery. I have also used a Metcal and like the Hakka just
as
> much. Lots of tips available.
> 
> Mark
> W7MLG
>  On Mar 24, 2014 3:44 PM, "Cady, Fred"  wrote:
> 
> > Hi all,
> > My venerable and aged Weller EC2000 solder station has given up the
ghost.
> >  Anybody have any suggestions of a good replacement - temperature
> > controlled 300 - 800 degrees or so, digital display, a range of tips.
> > I have done, but don't do as a practice, surface mount projects.
> > Thoughts? Your favorites?
> > Thanks and 73,
> > Fred KE7X
> >
> >
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[Elecraft] Distortion

[Hans Elfelt Bonnesen]

K2 Audio Distortion.

My otherwise flawless K2 # 7359  is found to have 
serious audio distortion problems on received and transmitted signals on 40 
meter.
The problem appears as soon as I go above 7171 kHz. On 7182 the problem makes 
SSB contacts impossible
Lower frequencies do not suffer. Why ?
I still haven’t checked the problem on other bands.

73 de
OZ5RB, Hans 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: New soldering station needed

[James Doty]

Your mileage may very but I use the T18-BR02 tip for both SMD and
through hole soldering.

I'd planned on buying more tips but frankly I'm 100% satisfied with
this tip.

I should probably get a larger tip though for soldering connectors and
such.
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Re: T/R switching problem

[Stephen Bloom]

Phil:

I would keep a close eye on this.  I had a bad issue with attenuation and
rectification using the K3-KPA500 ..only existing when the amp was on and in
operating mode.  It turned out to be a bad capacitor in one of the low pass
filters.  Sent it back to Elecraft ..and fixed quickly.  I'd give them a
call.

73
Steve KL7SB




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Toby Pennington
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 9:01 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: Re: T/R switching problem


The only time I have experienced some amount of attenuation on receive is
when I was using some other amplifier besides the KPA 500.

I found I had to totally disconnect all my cabling between the amplifier 
and the rig.   Since I am using the K line completely, trying to use an 
external amp other than the KPA 500  can be done without disconnecting all
the cabling,  but on receive you will experience attenuation of the receive
signals.  To have full receive using another brand of amp,  you will have to
remove the data transfer cabling between the rig and amp. 
I hope I have this right,  as it has been some time since I experimented
with using an amp with more output than the KPA 500.

Toby  K4NH


 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem
Date:   Wed, 26 Mar 2014 06:53:18 -0700
From:   Phil Hystad 
To: Mike K2MK 
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net



I have a similar (close but not identical to symptoms below) problem with
K3 receive attenuation.  I do not have a SteppIR and this same problem
occurred on more than one antenna (80-meter dipole, Traffie Hex Beam).

My symptoms were that when I turned on the radio in the morning, the band
per the display on the P3 was flat, virtually no "visible" signals.  No
matter as I was doing my morning reading with my coffee.

Later, I went to the radio and there should have been some good activity on
20, 17, 15, 12, and 10.  I did have signals but no where near as much as I
think there should have been.  I thought maybe the KAT500 was out of tune so
I fooled with that, Xmitted tune and so on and no real change.

I checked everything I could think of such as change in PRE setting (I was
on PRE), Attenuation (no, was not), and so on.

Finally, I tried the old computer programming trick, turn it off and turn it
on again.

When the K3 came back up the bands were crowded with signals.  So, there was
some significant attenuation going on but turning off (front panel switch
only) the K3 and turning it back on fixed everything.

Ideas, comments??  Oh, this has happened only that one time so far.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Mar 26, 2014, at 4:14 AM, Mike K2MK  wrote:

> Hi Jan,
>
> What is your antenna. There has been an ongoing thread on the SteppIR 
> site regarding this identical problem with many types of transceivers, 
> not just the K3. If you have a SteppIR antenna (any model) you should 
> take a look at their Yahoo site.
>
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
>
>
> Jan Ditzian wrote
>> I am having a problem with T/R switching in my K3.  The symptom is 
>> that, after I transmit, the receive signals are sometimes very
attenuated.
>> This problem has gotten worse.  At first, simply a quick tap on the 
>> PTT switch fixed everything, but now, at least on phone, I must make 
>> a brief additional transmission to get the receive to return.  Today, 
>> the problem got worse, and sometimes I have to really fuss with 
>> things to get receive back.  Here are some questions:
>>
>> 1. Is there a T/R relay in the K3, and does this sound like it is
>>sticking, at least to the extent that it does not make good contact
>>on receive?
>> 2. Has anyone had the similar problem, and what was the solution?
>> 3. If it is a relay, can it be replaced easily, or is this a return to
>>Elecraft situation?
>> 4. If it is simply a relay replacement, where is the relay located?
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Jan, KX2A
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T-R-switching-problem-tp7585979p7
> 585987.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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___

Re: [Elecraft] Distortion

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

Hi Hans

You seem to have a known problem - with a known fix: "Weird behavior around
7185 kHz." It is due to  interaction between the VFO and the PLL reference
oscillator. Search for '7185' in my list 
http://la3za.blogspot.no/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2_5502.html
  
and you will find some links that will help you.





-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Distortion-tp7586001p7586004.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Distortion

[Don Wilhelm]

Hans,

That sounds like the old WAOF (Weird At One Frequency) problem. That is 
the region where the PLL oscillator and VFO frequencies "cross paths" 
near 7185 kHz.  See http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Alert11_WAOF.html.  
Note that this alert refers to older version A K2s, you will not find 
C70 on your board.


If this is your problem, the audio signals will sound rather like they 
are 'under water'  If you have something different, then ask again.


With a new K2 layout, that seldom happens, so check to be certain D16 is 
mounted flush with the board.
In addition, the components mounted on the bottom of U4 (C88, RFC15 and 
C91) should have leads as short as possible - make certain they are 
connected to the correct pins.
You may need to trim all leads in the vicinity of U4 so there is nothing 
that would act as an 'antenna'.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2014 1:44 PM, Hans Elfelt Bonnesen wrote:

K2 Audio Distortion.

My otherwise flawless K2 # 7359  is found to have
serious audio distortion problems on received and transmitted signals on 40 
meter.
The problem appears as soon as I go above 7171 kHz. On 7182 the problem makes 
SSB contacts impossible
Lower frequencies do not suffer. Why ?
I still haven’t checked the problem on other bands.




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Re: [Elecraft] Distortion

[Phil Wheeler]

Nice list you have, Sverre. My K2 (#380) didn't 
suffer from this malaise (I tested it as 
specified) but I've done most all the others. Most 
recent was the AF pot mod: No parts, but fussy 
work on the three main boards -- and well worth 
the effort!


73, Phil W7ox

On 3/26/14, 11:48 AM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) wrote:

Hi Hans

You seem to have a known problem - with a known fix: "Weird behavior around
7185 kHz." It is due to  interaction between the VFO and the PLL reference
oscillator. Search for '7185' in my list
http://la3za.blogspot.no/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2_5502.html

and you will find some links that will help you.





-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html




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Re: [Elecraft] Distortion

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

Phil Wheeler-2 wrote
> Nice list you have, Sverre. 

Thanks! Since August last year I have updated the list (link in my signature
field) and added several photos to make it easier to navigate.







-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Distortion-tp7586001p7586007.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Matt VK2RQ]

Just back up your configuration with the KX3 utility before you start, and for 
extra security write down your current refcal value. If you do somehow "make a 
hash" of the compensation procedure, you can simply restore your saved 
configuration to get back where you started. Even if you somehow didn't save 
your configuration, it is very simple to simply revert the compensation menu 
setting from "CUSTOM" back to "STANDARD", and zero-beat your radio to the WWV 
carrier to reset your refcal.

Of course, you should only do what you are comfortable with, but in my view (I 
finally got around to doing the procedure last weekend) it is a reasonably 
straightforward and nicely automated procedure that yields a big benefit for 
digital mode operation. The Elecraft team has done well with this one.

73,
Matt VK2RQ

> On 26 Mar 2014, at 11:59 pm, Jack Chomley  wrote:
> 
> Tonight I have been experimenting on PSK31 at 3 watts and 5 watts. In my 
> shack the OSC Temp is about 38 deg and transmitting my CQ call about every 60 
> seconds @ 3 watts takes the OSC Temp to 39 deg, on RX it drops back to 38 deg.
> At 5 watts it goes up to 41 deg, but immediately settles back to 38 deg.
> My question is, what would the estimated frequency change be, per degree of 
> OSC Temp change? I am trying to work out the total freq shift between the 
> start and the end of my PSK31 transmission.
> Now, I have not done the OSC temp compensation routine to my radio. Trying 
> not to go down this road in case I make a hash of it :-)
> In closing, I will not be using WSPR or JT65 etc with this radio.
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Jack VK4JRC
> 
> Club.www.cqara.org.au
> Member WIA SARL ARRL 
> GQRP   #14392
> QRPARCI #15068
> VKQRP.#833
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Slava Baytalskiy]

Thanks everyone!
Don, will this setup liven up the mic? Or is there a way to just switch to 
front panel mic input only when using SL USB? I mean I know I can set the menu 
option to fp mic. But if I didn't and SL USB keyed up the rig - my actual mic 
would be live, right?

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS

On Mar 26, 2014, at 12:56 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Slava,
> 
> Yes, you should be able to use the front mic jack.  Set the SignaLink for mic 
> level output rather than line level (see the SignaLink documentation).  Turn 
> bias off for the front mic.
> 
> It is feasible that you could feed the SignaLink into your audio rack, but it 
> should not run through any of the conditioning mechanisms.  If you do that, 
> you would want to kill all other inputs to your audio rack and just run the 
> SignaLink 'straight through' to the Line In on the K3.  Whether that is 
> possible or not depends on the capabilities of your mixer.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/26/2014 12:36 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
>> Hello everyone!
>> I have a Signalink USB box that I'd like to interface with my new K3. From 
>> what I understand the preferred connection method is via the rear 
>> Line-In/Out jacks, right? I am using those with my rack audio gear, though 
>> (xlr mic/EQ/mixer/etc). What would you guys suggest that I do?
>> Can/should I use the front mic connector (it is the standard Kenwood 8-pin 
>> pinout, right?). Or is it possible to connect the Signalink inline with the 
>> audio stuff, between the rack and the K3?
>> Also, I have a new LP-PAN with an E-mu 0404 sound card that I haven't 
>> connected yet. So I wonder if that can somehow be used for the Signalink.
>> 
>> I also have an iPlus box (FYI).
>> Thanks in advance for your suggestions and ideas!
>> 
>> Slava Baytalskiy
>> sla...@nullserv.com
>> W2RMS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Slava Baytalskiy]

And one more question: what's this rj-45 type plug on the bottom of the front 
panel for? Anyone using it at all?

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Ian Kahn - Ham]

Sal, that RJ-45 jack was used at the factory for programming purposes.  It
has no function outside of that.

73 de

-- Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688, KPA500 #1468
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Slava Baytalskiy
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 5:03 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

And one more question: what's this rj-45 type plug on the bottom of the
front panel for? Anyone using it at all?

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Don Wilhelm]

Slava,

That all depends on whether you feed the SL USB through your mixer or go 
with the front panel mic.


Through the front panel, set the mic select to the front mic and bias 
off.  Use VOX and do not connect PTT from the SL USB and you will not 
have any PTT 'mistakes'.


If you feed it through your mixer, then it all depends on your mixer and 
its controls - I don't know your full audio (nor PTT) setup, so I cannot 
comment.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2014 5:00 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

Thanks everyone!
Don, will this setup liven up the mic? Or is there a way to just switch to 
front panel mic input only when using SL USB? I mean I know I can set the menu 
option to fp mic. But if I didn't and SL USB keyed up the rig - my actual mic 
would be live, right?



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Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

[Phil Hystad]

Well, I have never had my K3 hooked up to any amplifier other than the KPA500.  
Before I got the KPA500 I did have a PW-1 but I sold that.  Which reminds me, I 
should buy the new brick amp for the KX3.

73, phil


On Mar 26, 2014, at 10:00 AM, Toby Pennington  wrote:

> 
> The only time I have experienced some amount of attenuation on receive is 
> when I was using some other amplifier besides the KPA 500.
> 
> I found I had to totally disconnect all my cabling between the amplifier and 
> the rig.   Since I am using the K line completely, trying to use an external 
> amp other than the KPA 500  can be done without disconnecting  all the 
> cabling,  but on receive you will experience attenuation of the receive 
> signals.  To have full receive using another brand of amp,  you will have to 
> remove the data transfer cabling between the rig and amp.I hope I have 
> this right,  as it has been some time since I experimented with using an amp 
> with more output than the KPA 500.
> 
> Toby  K4NH
> 
> 
>  Original Message 
> Subject:  Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem
> Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 06:53:18 -0700
> From: Phil Hystad 
> To:   Mike K2MK 
> CC:   elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> 
> 
> I have a similar (close but not identical to symptoms below) problem with
> K3 receive attenuation.  I do not have a SteppIR and this same problem 
> occurred
> on more than one antenna (80-meter dipole, Traffie Hex Beam).
> 
> My symptoms were that when I turned on the radio in the morning, the band
> per the display on the P3 was flat, virtually no "visible" signals.  No matter
> as I was doing my morning reading with my coffee.
> 
> Later, I went to the radio and there should have been some good activity
> on 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10.  I did have signals but no where near as much
> as I think there should have been.  I thought maybe the KAT500 was out
> of tune so I fooled with that, Xmitted tune and so on and no real change.
> 
> I checked everything I could think of such as change in PRE setting (I was
> on PRE), Attenuation (no, was not), and so on.
> 
> Finally, I tried the old computer programming trick, turn it off and turn it
> on again.
> 
> When the K3 came back up the bands were crowded with signals.  So, there
> was some significant attenuation going on but turning off (front panel
> switch only) the K3 and turning it back on fixed everything.
> 
> Ideas, comments??  Oh, this has happened only that one time so far.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
> 
> On Mar 26, 2014, at 4:14 AM, Mike K2MK  wrote:
> 
>> Hi Jan,
>> 
>> What is your antenna. There has been an ongoing thread on the SteppIR site
>> regarding this identical problem with many types of transceivers, not just
>> the K3. If you have a SteppIR antenna (any model) you should take a look at
>> their Yahoo site.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Mike K2MK
>> 
>> 
>> Jan Ditzian wrote
>>> I am having a problem with T/R switching in my K3.  The symptom is that,
>>> after I transmit, the receive signals are sometimes very attenuated.
>>> This problem has gotten worse.  At first, simply a quick tap on the PTT
>>> switch fixed everything, but now, at least on phone, I must make a brief
>>> additional transmission to get the receive to return.  Today, the
>>> problem got worse, and sometimes I have to really fuss with things to
>>> get receive back.  Here are some questions:
>>> 
>>> 1. Is there a T/R relay in the K3, and does this sound like it is
>>>   sticking, at least to the extent that it does not make good contact
>>>   on receive?
>>> 2. Has anyone had the similar problem, and what was the solution?
>>> 3. If it is a relay, can it be replaced easily, or is this a return to
>>>   Elecraft situation?
>>> 4. If it is simply a relay replacement, where is the relay located?
>>> 
>>> Thank you,
>>> 
>>> Jan, KX2A
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T-R-switching-problem-tp7585979p7585987.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

[Robert Redmon]

I have encountered this phenomenon on a number of occasions over the 
past 50 years. In my case, every time, the problem was an oxidized 
connection or relay contact. Transmitting a single dit would clear the 
problem (temporarily), but the condition would always reappear after a 
time, sometimes after only a few minutes, if no other action was taken. 
In most cases, lightly burnishing the connection or relay contact (by 
far the most common culprit...in my experience) would resolve the issue.


73, Bob

--
Robert Redmon K5SM
AMA 58073

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: New soldering station needed

[Mel Farrer]

I agree with the long snoot, hi.  I modified the longest one I had for a 45 
degree bend so that I had a 1/4 inch approx length of horizontal tip to heat up 
several SMD leads at once.  Seemed to help.

Mel, K6KBE





On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 3:21 PM, Josh Fiden  wrote:
 
If I wanted to be prepared for whatever comes along, I'd get a large and 
small chisel, plus small conical for SMD. For example:

5.2mm chisel T15-D52
1.2mm chisel T15-D12
0.2mm conical T15-BLL

The long slender snoot on that conical makes it easier to see an SMD 
part underneath. The D24/2.4mm chisel is also nice if you want something 
big enough to hit a larger through hole tab, but you don't want to swap 
tips to get into a tight space.

The colored sleeves are also nice. You can hot swap tips and the bright 
colors (orange, green, blue, etc) mean you can quickly grab the size you 
want without close inspection. Those are part# B321x, where x specifies 
the color.

73,
Josh W6XU

On 3/25/2014 6:14 PM, Phil & Debbie Salas wrote:
> What tip or tips do you recommend?  They have a 4mm chisel, a 5.2mm chisel, 
> and a conical.
> Thanks,
> Phil – AD5X
>

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Re: [Elecraft] T/R switching problem

[Fred Jensen]

I have this problem occasionally on my sloping Vee for 40, 80, and 160, 
and I know it is in the antenna.  The V is fed at the top of the tower 
with 450 ohm ladder line which connects to the antenna wires with copper 
split nuts.  Corrosion has slowly occurred, and over time, the band gets 
very quiet.  A single dit will fix it, and of course, if I continue to 
transmit such as in a contest, all is well.  Getting it down to fix it 
is a serious PITA because of all the trees under it, and I don't know 
how much longer we're going to be here, so I live with it.  YMMV.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 3/25/2014 8:09 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jan,

Before deciding it is a K3 problem, take a look at your antenna system
coax.  If you bought cables from DX Engineering in the past year, be
aware that they had a crimping problem that could result in the bhavior
that you are experiencing.  A transmit 'sets it straight', but the RX
diminishes after that.



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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] Re: New Elecraft Product: K3/0-Mini Remote Front Panel

[Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA]

Yes, it is possible, and we're working on a special cable for this.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Now THAT I am interested in, I'd be interested in a cable of about 8 - 10
Metres in length.
Then my K3 can live in it's spot in the back of my campervan and I could
have the K3 Mini in the front so I can operate whilst mobile.
I know of a few others that would be very interested in this, Gary, VK1ZZ
would be one of em. :)

Many thanks
Jeff Cochrane VK4XA




-
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
Innisfail, QLD, Australia.
No longer an Elecraft Owner :(
(But I now have a campervan with an engine that runs!) :)

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/New-Elecraft-Product-K3-0-Mini-Remote-Front-Panel-tp7585683p7586017.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft price increase coming in April.

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi,

This is an early notice for everyone that we will be increasing prices slightly 
on our radios and other products before the end of next month (April).  As 
always, any orders placed before that point will be honored at today's pricing.


Please resist the urge to ask our sales or support staff for more specifics on 
what prices are changing and the exact date for the changes, as they do not have 
any additional information. We are still reviewing our complete product line to 
determine where we need to change pricing, so I can't be more specific on which 
specific products will increase in price, or by how much. (We've been absorbing 
a lot of supplier cost increases over the past two years.)


As always, we strive to keep these changes as small as possible, and to absorb 
cost increases where ever possible.


73,
Eric
elecraft.com
_..._


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Miscellaneous Accessory Board Project

[George Winship, NC5G]

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Miscellaneous-Accessory-Board-Project-tp7585246p7586019.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Has the KX1 changed in 5 years?

[cockpitbob]

Greetings all.  I recently fell in love with QRP CW and have outgrown my TenTec 
R4020.  I'm an engineer and use a soldering iron a lot at work, and I'm busy 
these days so a build project doesn't excite me. right now.  I have a lead on a 
5 year old KX1 and was wondering if they've changed much in 5 years.  I'm fine 
with little mods and tweaks but want to make sure it isn't dramatically 
different from the new ones.  Have they changed much in 5 years?

Thanks!
Bob
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Jack Chomley]

Thanks everyone for the ideas.I have the XG50 for the job. Doing the Temp 
Comp routine hopefully will improve the reliability of decoding PSK31 directly 
with the KX3 and my HCT. Yes, will write down REFCAL, save config thanks Matt.

73,

Jack VK4JRC

Club.www.cqara.org.au
Member WIA SARL ARRL 
GQRP   #14392
QRPARCI #15068
VKQRP.#833

> On 27 Mar 2014, at 6:51 am, Matt VK2RQ  wrote:
> 
> Just back up your configuration with the KX3 utility before you start, and 
> for extra security write down your current refcal value. If you do somehow 
> "make a hash" of the compensation procedure, you can simply restore your 
> saved configuration to get back where you started. Even if you somehow didn't 
> save your configuration, it is very simple to simply revert the compensation 
> menu setting from "CUSTOM" back to "STANDARD", and zero-beat your radio to 
> the WWV carrier to reset your refcal.
> 
> Of course, you should only do what you are comfortable with, but in my view 
> (I finally got around to doing the procedure last weekend) it is a reasonably 
> straightforward and nicely automated procedure that yields a big benefit for 
> digital mode operation. The Elecraft team has done well with this one.
> 
> 73,
> Matt VK2RQ
> 
>> On 26 Mar 2014, at 11:59 pm, Jack Chomley  wrote:
>> 
>> Tonight I have been experimenting on PSK31 at 3 watts and 5 watts. In my 
>> shack the OSC Temp is about 38 deg and transmitting my CQ call about every 
>> 60 seconds @ 3 watts takes the OSC Temp to 39 deg, on RX it drops back to 38 
>> deg.
>> At 5 watts it goes up to 41 deg, but immediately settles back to 38 deg.
>> My question is, what would the estimated frequency change be, per degree of 
>> OSC Temp change? I am trying to work out the total freq shift between the 
>> start and the end of my PSK31 transmission.
>> Now, I have not done the OSC temp compensation routine to my radio. Trying 
>> not to go down this road in case I make a hash of it :-)
>> In closing, I will not be using WSPR or JT65 etc with this radio.
>> 
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Jack VK4JRC
>> 
>> Club.www.cqara.org.au
>> Member WIA SARL ARRL 
>> GQRP   #14392
>> QRPARCI #15068
>> VKQRP.#833
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX1 changed in 5 years?

[Dave G.]

Bob,

I had #13 (Beta tester!)
IIRC. the only major change was the number of turns on one of the
toroids if you're into 80M

From the KXB3080 Errata notes:
"Your KX1 must have an 18-turn inductor installed at L3 before using
it on 80 meters. If L3 in your KX1 has only 6 turns, see “KX1
Builder’s Alert, Modifying Final Amplifier Choke L3”for instructions
on how to rewind the inductor."


>>From: cockpit...@aol.com
>>I have a lead on a 5 year old KX1 and was wondering if they've changed >>much 
>>in 5 years.  I'm fine with little mods and tweaks but want to make
>>sure it isn't dramatically different from the new ones.  Have they changed 
much in 5 years?

Dave G.KK7SS
Richland, WA.
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Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX1 changed in 5 years?

[Fred Jensen]

Not that I know of Bob.  After the initial KX1, they brought out the 30m 
add-on which I have and the 30/80m add-on which I don't have [life at my 
age isn't long enough for QRP with short antennas on 80m :-)].  Mine is 
S/N 678 I think, it's buried in my SOTA bag and I don't have time to go 
look, but I know it's 3-digits in the 6 hundreds.


Like the K1 and K2, these are fairly mature products, not many changes, 
and they work.  I do SOTA activations with my K2, and sometimes the KX1, 
I usually work the Spartan Sprint with my KX1 when it's warm enough to 
be on the deck.  I think you will like the KX1, with the LiPoly battery, 
the integral paddle, and earbuds, mine comes in at just under 0.62 lbs. 
Important for the Spartan. :-)


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 3/26/2014 7:36 PM, cockpit...@aol.com wrote:


Greetings all.  I recently fell in love with QRP CW and have outgrown
my TenTec R4020.  I'm an engineer and use a soldering iron a lot at
work, and I'm busy these days so a build project doesn't excite me.
right now.  I have a lead on a 5 year old KX1 and was wondering if
they've changed much in 5 years.  I'm fine with little mods and
tweaks but want to make sure it isn't dramatically different from the
new ones.  Have they changed much in 5 years?



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Walter Underwood]

The extended temp compensation is mostly about transmit frequency stability. It 
might make some difference in decoding PSK31 as the rig cools down, but I would 
expect that to be a smaller effect.

wunder
K6WRU

On Mar 26, 2014, at 7:39 PM, Jack Chomley  wrote:

> Thanks everyone for the ideas.I have the XG50 for the job. Doing the Temp 
> Comp routine hopefully will improve the reliability of decoding PSK31 
> directly with the KX3 and my HCT. Yes, will write down REFCAL, save config 
> thanks Matt.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Jack VK4JRC
> 
> Club.www.cqara.org.au
> Member WIA SARL ARRL 
> GQRP   #14392
> QRPARCI #15068
> VKQRP.#833
> 
>> On 27 Mar 2014, at 6:51 am, Matt VK2RQ  wrote:
>> 
>> Just back up your configuration with the KX3 utility before you start, and 
>> for extra security write down your current refcal value. If you do somehow 
>> "make a hash" of the compensation procedure, you can simply restore your 
>> saved configuration to get back where you started. Even if you somehow 
>> didn't save your configuration, it is very simple to simply revert the 
>> compensation menu setting from "CUSTOM" back to "STANDARD", and zero-beat 
>> your radio to the WWV carrier to reset your refcal.
>> 
>> Of course, you should only do what you are comfortable with, but in my view 
>> (I finally got around to doing the procedure last weekend) it is a 
>> reasonably straightforward and nicely automated procedure that yields a big 
>> benefit for digital mode operation. The Elecraft team has done well with 
>> this one.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Matt VK2RQ
>> 
>>> On 26 Mar 2014, at 11:59 pm, Jack Chomley  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Tonight I have been experimenting on PSK31 at 3 watts and 5 watts. In my 
>>> shack the OSC Temp is about 38 deg and transmitting my CQ call about every 
>>> 60 seconds @ 3 watts takes the OSC Temp to 39 deg, on RX it drops back to 
>>> 38 deg.
>>> At 5 watts it goes up to 41 deg, but immediately settles back to 38 deg.
>>> My question is, what would the estimated frequency change be, per degree of 
>>> OSC Temp change? I am trying to work out the total freq shift between the 
>>> start and the end of my PSK31 transmission.
>>> Now, I have not done the OSC temp compensation routine to my radio. Trying 
>>> not to go down this road in case I make a hash of it :-)
>>> In closing, I will not be using WSPR or JT65 etc with this radio.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>> Jack VK4JRC
>>> 
>>> Club.www.cqara.org.au
>>> Member WIA SARL ARRL 
>>> GQRP   #14392
>>> QRPARCI #15068
>>> VKQRP.#833
>>> __
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>>> Message delivered to matt.vk...@gmail.com
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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX1 changed in 5 years?

[Phil Wheeler]

I believe the only major change is addition of the 
3080 option (originally only a 30 option) and some 
new functions (which you can add by getting 
firmware 1.02 (?)). You can find the latest KX1 
manual here


http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#KX1 



and see. You may have the latest firmware, Bob.

73, Phil w7ox

On 3/26/14, 7:36 PM, cockpit...@aol.com wrote:

Greetings all.  I recently fell in love with QRP CW and have outgrown my TenTec 
R4020.  I'm an engineer and use a soldering iron a lot at work, and I'm busy 
these days so a build project doesn't excite me. right now.  I have a lead on a 
5 year old KX1 and was wondering if they've changed much in 5 years.  I'm fine 
with little mods and tweaks but want to make sure it isn't dramatically 
different from the new ones.  Have they changed much in 5 years?

Thanks!
Bob




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[Elecraft] K3 clean shutdown

[Jim Miller]

I've discovered that my UPS will create events which are visible in Event
Viewer in the Windows Administration Console. Event viewer can tag those
events and attach tasks to them.

I'm going to try to write a small program which will be launched upon "loss
of AC power message" from the UPS and signal the K3 to shutdown via a
command to DXLabs Commander.

Ideally I really rather just have the K3 write it's state rather than
shutdown fully.

Is there a "flush state to NVRAM" command somewhere?

Thanks

Jim AB3CV
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[Elecraft] 2 meter EME considerations with the K3

[John Lawrence]

Ed


Thanks for your feedback on end to end signal EIRP rules of thumb between JT65 
and CW.  


The frequency stability and other JT65 mode considerations are where I need the 
trade offs and it's nice to see it can be done with under 10 watts of drive to 
an amplifier in Class C.  That makes it much easier than I'd thought.  However, 
greater frequency stability is something I'll be working to achieve.  I believe 
better frequency stability between the two ends in QSO reduces time to complete 
a contact.  


The K3 with it's internal transverter and new external 10 MHz reference option 
make staying within 2 or 3 Hz possible. The external reference stabilizes both 
the K3 and the K3's internal transverter LO.  Where as, the separate XV144 with 
it's own TCXO option for the LO make it possible to stay within 10 Hz or so if 
the K3 has its own TCXO option.  With the XV144, temperature change during 
continuous 10 watt output on J65 it will cause some drift with dissipation heat 
  The manual says output must be run backed off to 10 watts or less output with 
the 100% duty cycle of JT65 transmission.  So, a high gain amplifier that 
allows the least amount of drive from the XV144 makes it more stable.  
 
 I can get to >700w power level by building a solid state amp using one of the 
Freescale LDMOS devices like the MRFE6VP61K25H.  They have high gain around 20 
dB and can be biased for near class C or AB depending on the mode operation.  I 
already have a 50 volt supply.


The array being x-pol yagi with 15.5 dB gain and with separate vertical and 
horizontal feed lines using low loss hard line gives me options of H, V, and 
x-pol use.  This gives me all polarity choices depending on what seems to work 
based on conditions.  Meteor scatter experimentation will be another area of 
interest.  


All the other inputs from you and others are appreciated too.  Thanks


73,


John, W1QS






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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question

[Larry Phipps]

SignaLink is mono, I believe. LP-PAN requires stereo.

Larry N8LP



On 3/26/2014 10:39 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 12:36:32 -0400
From: Slava Baytalskiy
To:"Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 interface to Signalink USB question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Hello everyone!
I have a Signalink USB box that I'd like to interface with my new K3. From what 
I understand the preferred connection method is via the rear Line-In/Out jacks, 
right? I am using those with my rack audio gear, though (xlr mic/EQ/mixer/etc). 
What would you guys suggest that I do?
Can/should I use the front mic connector (it is the standard Kenwood 8-pin 
pinout, right?). Or is it possible to connect the Signalink inline with the 
audio stuff, between the rack and the K3?
Also, I have a new LP-PAN with an E-mu 0404 sound card that I haven't connected 
yet. So I wonder if that can somehow be used for the Signalink.

I also have an iPlus box (FYI).
Thanks in advance for your suggestions and ideas!

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 OSC Temp And Freq Drift Relationship?

[Mark Petiford]

RE:  The extended temp compensation is mostly about transmit frequency 
stability. It might make some difference in decoding PSK31 as the rig cools 
down, but I would expect that to be a smaller effect.

To elaborate a bit more on wunder's comment, it is about frequency stability as 
related to temperature changes.  The reason it appears to affect transmit more 
than receive is because the KX3 power amplifier transistors generate lots of 
heat during transmit, heating up the SI570 oscillator.  The SI570 also 
generates heat, but generates the same amount of heat during transmit and 
receive (it doesn't know the difference), so it tends to add to the heat during 
transmit, and slow the cool-down during receive.  The relatively poor heat 
rejection capability of the KX3's enclosure (designed for TFR, not heat 
rejection) figures into that mix as well.  So, fast frequency drift during 
transmit, slower drift during receive.

I've used SI570's for a number of years on my SDR projects, but have always had 
the luxury of being able to isolate them from the radio's final amplifier 
transistors, and any other heat source.  They have therefore been very 
frequency stable once their temperature levels off following power-up.  The 
tight packaging of the KX3 doesn't allow that.  From the reports so far, it 
looks like Elecraft's "look-up table" approach is pretty effective at 
compensating.

Mark
KE6BB
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[Elecraft] K2 - "INFO 80 " problem

[Giuliano]

I bought a K2 SN 670 to complete my collection Elecraft.
I now have K1, K2 and K3 + P3.
The K2 serial number  is very low and I think some changes are essential 
and others less so. Can anyone tell me what mods are the really important?
I also have a problem that occurs very frequently: when I change band 
+/-, very often comes out "INFO 080". What can I do?

Thanks for the help
I0CG Italy
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - "INFO 80 " problem

[Christophe F8ACF-56]

hello juliano, 

I'll put the single "080 info" Book of troubleshooting, if it can help you



If you saw the message INFO 080, the 
I/O controller (IOC, RF-U1) or other auxBus 
device did not respond to messages from the 
main processor (MCU). Turn power OFF and 
back ON; if you hear some relays switching 
on power-up, the IOC may be OK, and the 
problem is likely to be with the AuxBus 
(081) 
  If you do not hear any relays switching on 
power-up, your IOC (RF-U1) may be 
defective. Inspect U1 carefully to see if you 
have installed it backwards or if any pins are 
bent. 
  Pull U1 out, check its pins, then re-install it, 
making sure all pins make good contact with 
the IC socket. Check the 4-MHz oscillator 
(075).
  Remove the bottom cover and verify that all 
pins of U1’s socket are soldered, as well as 
those of the 6V regulator (RF-U2), and U1’s 
4 MHz oscillator (RF-Z5). 
  With power ON, check all voltages 
associated with U1. You should see 6V at 
pins 1 and 20 at all times, even when the IOC 
is sleeping (not being accessed by the MCU).


 

K2 SN 7369


73 , Christophe F8ACF-56



 De : Giuliano 
À : elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Envoyé le : Jeudi 27 mars 2014 7h02
Objet : [Elecraft] K2 - "INFO 80 " problem
 

I bought a K2 SN 670 to complete my collection Elecraft.
I now have K1, K2 and K3 + P3.
The K2 serial number  is very low and I think some changes are essential 
and others less so. Can anyone tell me what mods are the really important?
I also have a problem that occurs very frequently: when I change band 
+/-, very often comes out "INFO 080". What can I do?
Thanks for the help
I0CG Italy
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