Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test

[Don Wilhelm]

That "explanation" dances all around the real world situation.  The 
Chinese have been making cheap counterfeit Prolific and FTDI chips. Both 
Prolific and FTDI have produced drivers which detect those counterfeit 
chips to protect their intellectual property.
While the counterfeit chips may work fine when used under Windows XP, 
they will not work with the newer Windows 7 or 8 drivers.


Yes, there are "workarounds" - turn off Windows updates and load the 
older drivers which do not have the detection algorithms.  I would 
prefer not to do that, and I have been burned several times with the 
Chinese counterfeit transistors and ICs.  I ordered what was supposed to 
be 2N5739 transistors which are no longer available from reliable 
manufacturers.  I had to throw all 10 of them into the trash because 
they did not work above the audio range.  The SSM2165 used on the K2 
KSB2 board is an obsolete part, but is advertized from Chinese vendors - 
unfortunately, that chip does not work, so it is "buyer beware".  If you 
buy counterfeit goods, it is just like getting a counterfeit $100 bill, 
it is worthless.  Unfortunately, there are vendors who are listing 
'workarounds' in order to sell their counterfeit products rather than 
'raising hell' to stop this proliferation of counterfeit devices.


I cut the USB end off the USB to Wouxun adapter that had the counterfeit 
chip in it and will be connecting it to a DB9 connector.  I can then 
connect it to either a real serial port or to a good USB to serial adapter.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2014 1:11 AM, WA7SPY wrote:

Here is a very good explanation about USB to serial port converters. ( see 
below) You pay a higher price but the recommended one works with my Windows 7 
PC. I have had no problems connecting older RS232 equipment to my Windows 7 PC. 
It works like a champ.
I have no interest in the US Converters but there products work well!
http://www.usconverters.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=62




On Mar 27, 2014, at 8:57 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Hi all,

I have had an experience with the Chinese "fake" Prolific USB to serial chips.  
A Wouxun VHF/UHF handeld would not work with my Win7 computer because the Prolific 
drivers identified the chip as a fake Chinese knockoff.  I tried the solutions in the web 
as well as the older Prolific drivers with no great success.  I even tried the Linux 
solutions and was not able to program the handheld (I am not a Linux guru, but I followed 
the instructions).  Simply, it did not work, and I am not willing  to keep a Windows XP 
computer going just for these Chinese fake chips.  I bought the programming cable in good 
faith, but that faith has been destroyed by the Chinese fake chips.




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Audio Power

[Walter Underwood]

The KX3 jack labeled "Phones" really is for headphones, it is spec'ed for 0.1W 
per channel. You will need an amplifier to drive speakers.

wunder
K6WRU

On Mar 27, 2014, at 10:47 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 3/27/2014 6:02 PM, Ross Primrose N4RP wrote:
>> Just use a pair of small amplified computer speakers
> 
> Be careful about that -- most amplified loudspeakers have RFI problems.
> 
> Remember that the KX3 is specifically designed to be a backpacking rig, so 
> everything, including the audio amp, is designed to be stingy about using 
> battery power.
> 
> One simple thing we can do to maximize the audio output level is to use RXEQ 
> to roll off the lower three bands. The sound in these lower bands makes no 
> contribution to communications, but it does use power, so when we get rid of 
> it, we can use the power for the sound that matters.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Audio Power

[Jim Brown]

On 3/27/2014 6:02 PM, Ross Primrose N4RP wrote:

Just use a pair of small amplified computer speakers


Be careful about that -- most amplified loudspeakers have RFI problems.

Remember that the KX3 is specifically designed to be a backpacking rig, 
so everything, including the audio amp, is designed to be stingy about 
using battery power.


One simple thing we can do to maximize the audio output level is to use 
RXEQ to roll off the lower three bands. The sound in these lower bands 
makes no contribution to communications, but it does use power, so when 
we get rid of it, we can use the power for the sound that matters.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] About Rose of Elecraft Cases and Covers

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

Get well soon Rose!  Out thoughts are with you!

Mike W0MU

On 3/27/2014 11:21 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

I've just brought Rose home from an unexpected hospital
stay and she'll be recuperating for a few weeks.  She -will-
continue to sew and fill case and cover orders, but at a
slower pace for awhile.

Needless to say, she won't be at the Visalia DX Convention,
and SeaPac is "iffy" ... we'll see.

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP
(Rose's OM)
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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[Elecraft] About Rose of Elecraft Cases and Covers

[Ken G Kopp]

I've just brought Rose home from an unexpected hospital
stay and she'll be recuperating for a few weeks.  She -will-
continue to sew and fill case and cover orders, but at a
slower pace for awhile.

Needless to say, she won't be at the Visalia DX Convention,
and SeaPac is "iffy" ... we'll see.

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP
(Rose's OM)
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test

[WA7SPY]

Here is a very good explanation about USB to serial port converters. ( see 
below) You pay a higher price but the recommended one works with my Windows 7 
PC. I have had no problems connecting older RS232 equipment to my Windows 7 PC. 
It works like a champ.
I have no interest in the US Converters but there products work well!
http://www.usconverters.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=62



> On Mar 27, 2014, at 8:57 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have had an experience with the Chinese "fake" Prolific USB to serial 
> chips.  A Wouxun VHF/UHF handeld would not work with my Win7 computer because 
> the Prolific drivers identified the chip as a fake Chinese knockoff.  I tried 
> the solutions in the web as well as the older Prolific drivers with no great 
> success.  I even tried the Linux solutions and was not able to program the 
> handheld (I am not a Linux guru, but I followed the instructions).  Simply, 
> it did not work, and I am not willing  to keep a Windows XP computer going 
> just for these Chinese fake chips.  I bought the programming cable in good 
> faith, but that faith has been destroyed by the Chinese fake chips.
> 
> I ordered a serial to Kenwood programming cable from Powerworks and I should 
> be able to program it with either a real serial port or a good USB to serial 
> adapter.  That should solve my problem.  There is nothing wrong with good old 
> RS232 serial ports, they are a constant among the USB 'alternatives'.
> 
> Yes, the Win7 and Win8 drivers for both Prolific and FTDI chips will detect 
> these counterfeit chips and will not successfully load the drivers.  I found 
> out the hard way.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 3/27/2014 8:27 PM, Doug Person wrote:
>> Personally, I have had some aggravation with USB to serial port converters 
>> so I thought I would pass along my experience with a good product.
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: [Elecraft_K3] SO2R thoughts

[Rick Tavan N6XI]

If you can afford it, go for a second K3. No need for the sub-rx and some
of the other options. A pair of K3s is arguably the ultimate SO2R
configuration. At least for my pea brain, two identical radios is much
easier to handle than different ones, even ones as conceptually similar as
K3 and KX3.

Also, if you're ever interested in remote operation, one K3 can travel to
the remote control site when you're away from the main station.

Later, if portable operation is still of interest, buy a KX3 as well.
That's what I did and I'm very, very happy with it all.

/Rick


On Thu, Mar 27, 2014 at 9:09 PM, Stephen Bloom  wrote:

> Ooof .I completely spaced out the line in line out connections .yeah ..that
> is a show stopper
>
>
>
> 73
>
> Steve KL7SB
>
>
>
>
>
> From: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:elecraft...@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 7:28 PM
> To: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com; 'Elecraft Reflector'
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft_K3] SO2R thoughts
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > 2) Kenwood TS590 ...Upside: Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
> > capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside: Looks like it has a weird audio
> > codec (meaning not the standard Kenwood). I see that N1MM works with
> > it ...but I wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.
>
> With MK2R+ you ignore the internal CODEC and the USB connection - use
> RS-232 for CAT and the normal ACC/Mic jacks for audio connections. The
> overall issue with Kenwood is that it does not have a separate "mode"
> for AFSK/PSK31 - you need to rely on the "digital band map" in microHAM
> Router to distinguish between phone and digital. Sometimes that can be
> a bit of an issue - e.g. 40 meters.
>
> > 3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside: The KX3 really
> > intrigues me.
>
> The KX3 is most certainly *not* a contest radio. Since it lacks FSK,
> and dedicated line out/line in connections, microHAM does not support
> the KX3 (or any other radio that lacks one or more required connections
> like a serial CAT port, or separate analog line out, and analog line
> in).
>
> If it were me, the choice would be between the K3 and TS-590 ... and I
> would lean toward the K3 due to the availability of P3 and KRX3.
>
> 73,
>
> ... Joe, W4TV
>
> On 3/27/2014 10:25 PM, Stephen Bloom wrote:
> > Hey all:
> >
> > I've been the owner of a K3, KAT500, and KPA500, and a Microham MK2R+ for
> > about 9 months now. Love em all. The one additional thing I wanted was a
> > Legal Limit amp (I'm a fairly active contester). Bought an Expert 2K-FA
> and
> > just put that online. So far so good. The one clear downside to the 2K-FA
> > is ...that it is loud (actually quieter than most High Power amps but
> still
> > loud).
> >
> > With that said ...and given the fact that the Expert Amp SO2R isn't
> really
> > SO2R (second antenna is rx only) ...I'm going to pair a second rig with
> the
> > KPA500 and use it as a backup contest rig and as main for non contest Qs
> > where I don't need the extra 3DB. Right now the second rig is a Kenwood
> > TS2000 ...which isn't really a contest or DX quality transceiver. The
> three
> > options I'm mulling over are ..
> >
> > 1) another K3 ...Upside: SO2R is most intuitive with identical xcvrs,
> > plays well with KPA500/KAT500, identical cabling ...Downside: Expensive,
> > It's more fun to have different rigs to play with, and like others, I
> find
> > the K3 can be kind of "harsh" to listen to for many hours.
> >
> > 2) Kenwood TS590 ...Upside: Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
> > capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside: Looks like it has a weird audio
> codec
> > (meaning not the standard Kenwood). I see that N1MM works with it ...but
> I
> > wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.
> >
> > 3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside: The KX3 really intrigues
> me.
> > In a perfect world ...the Second Rig would be one I could easily take
> > portable. The Sherwood reviews seem to indicate that the KX3 rcv
> > performance is comparable to the K3, and I'm a real fan of Elecraft in
> > general. Downside: Clearly there is no technical reason one couldn't
> chain
> > all this together, but I wonder if anyone actually has done it, and if
> there
> > were any configuration issues
> >
> >
> > Any input would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks and 73
> > Steve KL7SB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> > Yahoo Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> __._,_.___
>
>
>
> <
> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Elecraft_K3/conversations/messages/2036
>
> 7;_ylc=X3oDMTJyMmZ2cm80BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzIwMTQ5NDI4BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwN
>
> TA2MzEwOARtc2dJZAMyMDM2NwRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNycGx5BHN0aW1lAzEzOTU5NzczMTA-?act=
> reply&messageNum=20367> Reply via web post
>
>
>  ?subject=Re%3A%20%5BElecraft_K3%5D%20SO2R%20thoughts
> > Reply to sender
>
>
>  ?subject=Re%3A%20%5BElecraft_K3%5D%20SO2R
> %20thoughts> Reply to group
>
>
> <
> https://groups.yahoo.

[Elecraft] FW: [Elecraft_K3] SO2R thoughts

[Stephen Bloom]

Ooof .I completely spaced out the line in line out connections .yeah ..that
is a show stopper

 

73

Steve KL7SB

 

 

From: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:elecraft...@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 7:28 PM
To: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft_K3] SO2R thoughts

 

  



> 2) Kenwood TS590 ...Upside: Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
> capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside: Looks like it has a weird audio
> codec (meaning not the standard Kenwood). I see that N1MM works with
> it ...but I wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.

With MK2R+ you ignore the internal CODEC and the USB connection - use
RS-232 for CAT and the normal ACC/Mic jacks for audio connections. The
overall issue with Kenwood is that it does not have a separate "mode"
for AFSK/PSK31 - you need to rely on the "digital band map" in microHAM
Router to distinguish between phone and digital. Sometimes that can be
a bit of an issue - e.g. 40 meters.

> 3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside: The KX3 really
> intrigues me.

The KX3 is most certainly *not* a contest radio. Since it lacks FSK,
and dedicated line out/line in connections, microHAM does not support
the KX3 (or any other radio that lacks one or more required connections
like a serial CAT port, or separate analog line out, and analog line
in).

If it were me, the choice would be between the K3 and TS-590 ... and I
would lean toward the K3 due to the availability of P3 and KRX3.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 3/27/2014 10:25 PM, Stephen Bloom wrote:
> Hey all:
>
> I've been the owner of a K3, KAT500, and KPA500, and a Microham MK2R+ for
> about 9 months now. Love em all. The one additional thing I wanted was a
> Legal Limit amp (I'm a fairly active contester). Bought an Expert 2K-FA
and
> just put that online. So far so good. The one clear downside to the 2K-FA
> is ...that it is loud (actually quieter than most High Power amps but
still
> loud).
>
> With that said ...and given the fact that the Expert Amp SO2R isn't really
> SO2R (second antenna is rx only) ...I'm going to pair a second rig with
the
> KPA500 and use it as a backup contest rig and as main for non contest Qs
> where I don't need the extra 3DB. Right now the second rig is a Kenwood
> TS2000 ...which isn't really a contest or DX quality transceiver. The
three
> options I'm mulling over are ..
>
> 1) another K3 ...Upside: SO2R is most intuitive with identical xcvrs,
> plays well with KPA500/KAT500, identical cabling ...Downside: Expensive,
> It's more fun to have different rigs to play with, and like others, I find
> the K3 can be kind of "harsh" to listen to for many hours.
>
> 2) Kenwood TS590 ...Upside: Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
> capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside: Looks like it has a weird audio codec
> (meaning not the standard Kenwood). I see that N1MM works with it ...but I
> wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.
>
> 3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside: The KX3 really intrigues
me.
> In a perfect world ...the Second Rig would be one I could easily take
> portable. The Sherwood reviews seem to indicate that the KX3 rcv
> performance is comparable to the K3, and I'm a real fan of Elecraft in
> general. Downside: Clearly there is no technical reason one couldn't chain
> all this together, but I wonder if anyone actually has done it, and if
there
> were any configuration issues
>
>
> Any input would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks and 73
> Steve KL7SB
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>
>

__._,_.___


 
 Reply via web post 

 
 Reply to sender 

 
 Reply to group 

 
 Start a New Topic 

 
 Messages in this topic (4) 

 
 Visit Your Group 

.

[Elecraft] [K3] 700 Hz 8-Pole CW Filters (by INRAD) -- Exclusively from unpcbs.com

[Gary W. Hvizdak]

We have shipped more than 100 of these custom INRAD filters since 2011
with an overall customer satisfaction record of 96.5%.  What's more, since
April 2012, 100% of our customers have reported being pleased with 700 Hz.

In the interest of full disclosure, FYI these statistics don't include
customers who purchased a 700 Hz filter but never used it.  We've had four
such customers to date ...

1. Chris P. : who was reluctant to open his factory-built K3, with sub-RX.
2. Mike  R. : who reluctantly sold his K3, soon after ordering his filter.
3. Joel  C. : an SSB-only op, who ordered one on a whim for digital modes.
4. John  Z. : who ultimately purchased a Ten-Tec Omni VI, instead of a K3.


SPECIFICATIONS

  Overview
o   Center Frequency  : 8125 kHz
o   Nominal Bandwidth : 700 Hz
o   6/60 Shape Factor : 1.7
o   Insertion Loss: 6 dB  (note 1)

  Typical Passband Response  (note 1)
o   0.680 kHz @  -3 dB
o   0.785 kHz @  -6 dB  (note 2)
o   1.030 kHz @ -30 dB
o   1.340 kHz @ -60 dB

  Center Frequency Deviation
o   +/- 100 Hz worst-case, across all manufacturing lots  (note 3)
o   +/- 5 Hz typical, within any given manufacturing lot  (note 4)

  Notes:
(1) Data extrapolated from the plot of a randomly selected filter.
(2) According to INRAD, the -6 dB bandwidth can vary by +/- 15 Hz.
(3) To date, the standard deviation of all batch-offsets is 45 Hz.
(4) In contrast, Elecraft considers "within 40 Hz" a matched pair.


Visit http://www.unpcbs.com to order and for:  pricing; availability;
delivery status; terms of sale; shipping charges; passband response plot;
user comments; FAQs; app notes; a slideshow presentation illustrating and
comparing INRAD's CW bandwidth choices; and a marketing brochure that has
information not found elsewhere on our website.

73,
Gary  (Kilo India Four Golf Golf X-ray)

P.S.  In the unlikely event that you aren't delighted with 700 Hz; FYI on
average, these special-order filters retain 95% of their original selling
price on the second-hand market.


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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test

[Don Wilhelm]

Hi all,

I have had an experience with the Chinese "fake" Prolific USB to serial 
chips.  A Wouxun VHF/UHF handeld would not work with my Win7 computer 
because the Prolific drivers identified the chip as a fake Chinese 
knockoff.  I tried the solutions in the web as well as the older 
Prolific drivers with no great success.  I even tried the Linux 
solutions and was not able to program the handheld (I am not a Linux 
guru, but I followed the instructions).  Simply, it did not work, and I 
am not willing  to keep a Windows XP computer going just for these 
Chinese fake chips.  I bought the programming cable in good faith, but 
that faith has been destroyed by the Chinese fake chips.


I ordered a serial to Kenwood programming cable from Powerworks and I 
should be able to program it with either a real serial port or a good 
USB to serial adapter.  That should solve my problem.  There is nothing 
wrong with good old RS232 serial ports, they are a constant among the 
USB 'alternatives'.


Yes, the Win7 and Win8 drivers for both Prolific and FTDI chips will 
detect these counterfeit chips and will not successfully load the 
drivers.  I found out the hard way.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 8:27 PM, Doug Person wrote:
Personally, I have had some aggravation with USB to serial port 
converters so I thought I would pass along my experience with a good 
product.




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Re: [Elecraft] OT QRP: Low Power QPSK experiment Advice sought

[Don Wilhelm]

Lynn,

Then he is going to drive it with something other than a soundcard in 
his 'real life' situation.
I am suggesting that whatever he will be driving it with is a valid 
signal generator.
Of course, if he wants to test well beyond the limits of whatever will 
be driving it, that is a different matter and may require quite 
specialized equipment.  I do not know enough from the original post to 
comment any further.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 9:27 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

He's talking about 1 megabit to 5 megabit data rates.

Not going to do more than a few kilobits with a sound card.



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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] SO2R thoughts

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

2) Kenwood TS590 ...Upside: Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside: Looks like it has a weird audio
codec (meaning not the standard Kenwood). I see that N1MM works with
it ...but I wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.


With MK2R+ you ignore the internal CODEC and the USB connection - use
RS-232 for CAT and the normal ACC/Mic jacks for audio connections. The
overall issue with Kenwood is that it does not have a separate "mode"
for AFSK/PSK31 - you need to rely on the "digital band map" in microHAM
Router to distinguish between phone and digital.  Sometimes that can be
a bit of an issue - e.g. 40 meters.


3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside: The KX3 really
intrigues me.


The KX3 is most certainly *not* a contest radio.  Since it lacks FSK,
and dedicated line out/line in connections, microHAM does not support
the KX3 (or any other radio that lacks one or more required connections
like a serial CAT port, or separate analog line out, and analog line
in).

If it were me, the choice would be between the K3 and TS-590 ... and I
would lean toward the K3 due to the availability of P3 and KRX3.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/27/2014 10:25 PM, Stephen Bloom wrote:

Hey all:

I've been the owner of a K3, KAT500, and KPA500, and a Microham MK2R+  for
about 9 months now.  Love em all.  The one additional thing I wanted was a
Legal Limit amp (I'm a fairly active contester).  Bought an Expert 2K-FA and
just put that online.  So far so good.  The one clear downside to the 2K-FA
is ...that it is loud (actually quieter than most High Power amps but still
loud).

With that said ...and given the fact that the Expert Amp SO2R isn't really
SO2R (second antenna is rx only) ...I'm going to pair a second rig with the
KPA500 and use it as a backup contest rig and as main for non contest Qs
where I don't need the extra 3DB.  Right now the second rig is a Kenwood
TS2000 ...which isn't really a contest or DX quality transceiver.  The three
options I'm mulling over are ..

1)  another K3 ...Upside:  SO2R is most intuitive with identical xcvrs,
plays well with KPA500/KAT500, identical cabling  ...Downside:  Expensive,
It's more fun to have different rigs to play with, and like others, I find
the K3 can be kind of "harsh" to listen to for many hours.

2)  Kenwood TS590 ...Upside:  Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside:  Looks like it has a weird audio codec
(meaning not the standard Kenwood).  I see that N1MM works with it ...but I
wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.

3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside:  The KX3 really intrigues me.
In a perfect world ...the Second Rig would be one I could easily take
portable.  The Sherwood reviews seem to indicate that the KX3 rcv
performance is comparable to the K3, and I'm a real fan of Elecraft in
general.  Downside:  Clearly there is no technical reason one couldn't chain
all this together, but I wonder if anyone actually has done it, and if there
were any configuration issues


Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks and 73
Steve KL7SB






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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] Re: SO2R thoughts

[Jim]

I had a similar decision to make.

 

I thought I would take the rig camping
and hikes, goin' mobile.

 

But, I bought a comfortable chair at the
same time and

 

Get another K3.

 

There is a VERY good reason there are
*significantly* more used KX-3's on the
market compared to K3's

 

Jim

WA9ZBV

 

 

 

 

 

From: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:elecraft...@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 7:48 PM
To: Stephen Bloom; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Cc: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elecraft_K3] Re: [Elecraft]
SO2R thoughts

 

  

Steve,

I would suggest the KX3 + KXPA100 as the
best solution (since you also 
want a portable rig). The display and
controls of the KX3 are similar 
to those on the K3, so you don't have to
concentrate as much on the 
differences between the 2 radios.

If it were not for your statement about
portable, I would say the 2nd K3 
would be your best solution to SO2R
operation.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 10:25 PM, Stephen Bloom
wrote:
> Hey all:
>
> I've been the owner of a K3, KAT500,
and KPA500, and a Microham MK2R+ for
> about 9 months now. Love em all. The
one additional thing I wanted was a
> Legal Limit amp (I'm a fairly active
contester). Bought an Expert 2K-FA and
> just put that online. So far so good.
The one clear downside to the 2K-FA
> is ...that it is loud (actually
quieter than most High Power amps but
still
> loud).
>
> With that said ...and given the fact
that the Expert Amp SO2R isn't really
> SO2R (second antenna is rx only)
...I'm going to pair a second rig with
the
> KPA500 and use it as a backup contest
rig and as main for non contest Qs
> where I don't need the extra 3DB.
Right now the second rig is a Kenwood
> TS2000 ...which isn't really a contest
or DX quality transceiver. The three
> options I'm mulling over are ..
>
> 1) another K3 ...Upside: SO2R is most
intuitive with identical xcvrs,
> plays well with KPA500/KAT500,
identical cabling ...Downside:
Expensive,
> It's more fun to have different rigs
to play with, and like others, I find
> the K3 can be kind of "harsh" to
listen to for many hours.
>
> 2) Kenwood TS590 ...Upside: Biggest
bang for the buck (IMO) contest
> capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside:
Looks like it has a weird audio codec
> (meaning not the standard Kenwood). I
see that N1MM works with it ...but I
> wonder about other software plus the
MK2R+.
>
> 3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500)
..Upside: The KX3 really intrigues me.
> In a perfect world ...the Second Rig
would be one I could easily take
> portable. The Sherwood reviews seem to
indicate that the KX3 rcv
> performance is comparable to the K3,
and I'm a real fan of Elecraft in
> general. Downside: Clearly there is no
technical reason one couldn't chain
> all this together, but I wonder if
anyone actually has done it, and if
there
> were any configuration issues
>
>
>

__._,_.___


 
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Re: [Elecraft] SO2R thoughts

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

I have two K3's.  One decked out with all the bells and whistles and the 
other one is pretty basic. Having two exact rigs is helpful especially 
when tired.


The KX3 also sounds like a fun option.

TS590 pretty good bang for the bucks.

I like to support small business and made in America when possible.  
Hard not to support the Elecraft gang!


Mike W0MU

On 3/27/2014 8:25 PM, Stephen Bloom wrote:

Hey all:

I've been the owner of a K3, KAT500, and KPA500, and a Microham MK2R+  for
about 9 months now.  Love em all.  The one additional thing I wanted was a
Legal Limit amp (I'm a fairly active contester).  Bought an Expert 2K-FA and
just put that online.  So far so good.  The one clear downside to the 2K-FA
is ...that it is loud (actually quieter than most High Power amps but still
loud).

With that said ...and given the fact that the Expert Amp SO2R isn't really
SO2R (second antenna is rx only) ...I'm going to pair a second rig with the
KPA500 and use it as a backup contest rig and as main for non contest Qs
where I don't need the extra 3DB.  Right now the second rig is a Kenwood
TS2000 ...which isn't really a contest or DX quality transceiver.  The three
options I'm mulling over are ..

1)  another K3 ...Upside:  SO2R is most intuitive with identical xcvrs,
plays well with KPA500/KAT500, identical cabling  ...Downside:  Expensive,
It's more fun to have different rigs to play with, and like others, I find
the K3 can be kind of "harsh" to listen to for many hours.

2)  Kenwood TS590 ...Upside:  Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside:  Looks like it has a weird audio codec
(meaning not the standard Kenwood).  I see that N1MM works with it ...but I
wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.

3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside:  The KX3 really intrigues me.
In a perfect world ...the Second Rig would be one I could easily take
portable.  The Sherwood reviews seem to indicate that the KX3 rcv
performance is comparable to the K3, and I'm a real fan of Elecraft in
general.  Downside:  Clearly there is no technical reason one couldn't chain
all this together, but I wonder if anyone actually has done it, and if there
were any configuration issues


Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks and 73
Steve KL7SB


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Re: [Elecraft] SO2R thoughts

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

I would suggest the KX3 + KXPA100 as the best solution (since you also 
want a portable rig).  The display and controls of the KX3 are similar 
to those on the K3, so you don't have to concentrate as much on the 
differences between the 2 radios.


If it were not for your statement about portable, I would say the 2nd K3 
would be your best solution to SO2R operation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 10:25 PM, Stephen Bloom wrote:

Hey all:

I've been the owner of a K3, KAT500, and KPA500, and a Microham MK2R+  for
about 9 months now.  Love em all.  The one additional thing I wanted was a
Legal Limit amp (I'm a fairly active contester).  Bought an Expert 2K-FA and
just put that online.  So far so good.  The one clear downside to the 2K-FA
is ...that it is loud (actually quieter than most High Power amps but still
loud).

With that said ...and given the fact that the Expert Amp SO2R isn't really
SO2R (second antenna is rx only) ...I'm going to pair a second rig with the
KPA500 and use it as a backup contest rig and as main for non contest Qs
where I don't need the extra 3DB.  Right now the second rig is a Kenwood
TS2000 ...which isn't really a contest or DX quality transceiver.  The three
options I'm mulling over are ..

1)  another K3 ...Upside:  SO2R is most intuitive with identical xcvrs,
plays well with KPA500/KAT500, identical cabling  ...Downside:  Expensive,
It's more fun to have different rigs to play with, and like others, I find
the K3 can be kind of "harsh" to listen to for many hours.

2)  Kenwood TS590 ...Upside:  Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside:  Looks like it has a weird audio codec
(meaning not the standard Kenwood).  I see that N1MM works with it ...but I
wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.

3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside:  The KX3 really intrigues me.
In a perfect world ...the Second Rig would be one I could easily take
portable.  The Sherwood reviews seem to indicate that the KX3 rcv
performance is comparable to the K3, and I'm a real fan of Elecraft in
general.  Downside:  Clearly there is no technical reason one couldn't chain
all this together, but I wonder if anyone actually has done it, and if there
were any configuration issues





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[Elecraft] SO2R thoughts

[Stephen Bloom]

Hey all:

I've been the owner of a K3, KAT500, and KPA500, and a Microham MK2R+  for
about 9 months now.  Love em all.  The one additional thing I wanted was a
Legal Limit amp (I'm a fairly active contester).  Bought an Expert 2K-FA and
just put that online.  So far so good.  The one clear downside to the 2K-FA
is ...that it is loud (actually quieter than most High Power amps but still
loud).  

With that said ...and given the fact that the Expert Amp SO2R isn't really
SO2R (second antenna is rx only) ...I'm going to pair a second rig with the
KPA500 and use it as a backup contest rig and as main for non contest Qs
where I don't need the extra 3DB.  Right now the second rig is a Kenwood
TS2000 ...which isn't really a contest or DX quality transceiver.  The three
options I'm mulling over are ..

1)  another K3 ...Upside:  SO2R is most intuitive with identical xcvrs,
plays well with KPA500/KAT500, identical cabling  ...Downside:  Expensive,
It's more fun to have different rigs to play with, and like others, I find
the K3 can be kind of "harsh" to listen to for many hours.

2)  Kenwood TS590 ...Upside:  Biggest bang for the buck (IMO) contest
capable xcvr, Good audio ..Downside:  Looks like it has a weird audio codec
(meaning not the standard Kenwood).  I see that N1MM works with it ...but I
wonder about other software plus the MK2R+.

3) KX3+KXPA100(+existing KAT/KPA500) ..Upside:  The KX3 really intrigues me.
In a perfect world ...the Second Rig would be one I could easily take
portable.  The Sherwood reviews seem to indicate that the KX3 rcv
performance is comparable to the K3, and I'm a real fan of Elecraft in
general.  Downside:  Clearly there is no technical reason one couldn't chain
all this together, but I wonder if anyone actually has done it, and if there
were any configuration issues 


Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks and 73
Steve KL7SB


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[Elecraft] Thank you Elecraft Listees!

[Warren Allred]

I wanted to thank everyone for all the direct responses I received while
pondering my K1 Rx issues.

After much poking around and pondering - I decided I could too easily get
in deep and the radio is in the capable hands of Don (W3FPR) for a complete
checkout, and I can't wait to get her home and on the air!

Thank you and 73!

-- Warre
n AB6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] OT QRP: Low Power QPSK experiment Advice sought

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

He's talking about 1 megabit to 5 megabit data rates.

Not going to do more than a few kilobits with a sound card.

-- Lynn

On 3/27/2014 6:17 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Neil,

If you are going to operate digital modes, you have a perfectly good 
way to generate the digital stream.

It is the computer soundcard and the application that you will be using.
The computer soundcard is good for generating anything in the audio 
range.  There are several software applications that will produce 
several types of audio waveforms.  A web search will reveal several of 
them.
But for your purposes, I would think that the software application 
that you intend to use to generate the digital signal would be the 
best thing to use.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 7:41 PM, Niel Skousen wrote:

Good Evening All,

This is low power, just not strictly QRP operating.  I'm looking for 
input and advice ** off the list **


I'd like to do some experiments with QPSK and GMSK at 450 - 900 MHz, 
and looking for advice on howto inexpensively do so since I dont 
have  digital modulation signal generator.   I'd like to look at some 
modulation sideband effects at +/- 5x the modulation frequency.
Ideally I'm looking at 5Mbps QPSK, but lower bandwidths (~1Mbps) 
might work for me as similar answers to my question ( interference 
suppression ).


I have an HP 8921 for Spectrum analysis and a decent scope, but no 
good way to generate and decode the digital stream.


Any thoughts for on-the-cheap approach would be appreciated (eval 
kits etc)





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Re: [Elecraft] OT QRP: Low Power QPSK experiment Advice sought

[Don Wilhelm]

Neil,

If you are going to operate digital modes, you have a perfectly good way 
to generate the digital stream.

It is the computer soundcard and the application that you will be using.
The computer soundcard is good for generating anything in the audio 
range.  There are several software applications that will produce 
several types of audio waveforms.  A web search will reveal several of them.
But for your purposes, I would think that the software application that 
you intend to use to generate the digital signal would be the best thing 
to use.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 7:41 PM, Niel Skousen wrote:

Good Evening All,

This is low power, just not strictly QRP operating.  I'm looking for input and 
advice ** off the list **

I'd like to do some experiments with QPSK and GMSK at 450 - 900 MHz, and 
looking for advice on howto inexpensively do so since I dont have  digital 
modulation signal generator.   I'd like to look at some modulation sideband 
effects at +/- 5x the modulation frequency.Ideally I'm looking at 5Mbps 
QPSK, but lower bandwidths (~1Mbps) might work for me as similar answers to my 
question ( interference suppression ).

I have an HP 8921 for Spectrum analysis and a decent scope, but no good way to 
generate and decode the digital stream.

Any thoughts for on-the-cheap approach would be appreciated (eval kits etc)




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Audio Power

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

Just use a pair of small amplified computer speakers...

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/27/2014 8:46 PM, Doug Person wrote:
Now that the KX3 can function as a full QRO transceiver with the new 
amplifier, I find myself a bit disappointed with audio output power. 
Even with the most efficient speaker I can find, I can't really get a 
comfortable audio level. So, I'm kind of stuck with headphones to 
really hear well. Wondering if anyone has tried building a simple 
audio amp that will power a decent desk speaker. I was wondering if 
these class "D" modules are worth investigating. Anyone have any ideas?


73, Doug -- K0DXV
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] KX3 Audio Power

[Doug Person]

Now that the KX3 can function as a full QRO transceiver with the new 
amplifier, I find myself a bit disappointed with audio output power.  
Even with the most efficient speaker I can find, I can't really get a 
comfortable audio level.  So, I'm kind of stuck with headphones to 
really hear well.  Wondering if anyone has tried building a simple audio 
amp that will power a decent desk speaker. I was wondering if these 
class "D" modules are worth investigating. Anyone have any ideas?


73, Doug -- K0DXV
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[Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test

[Doug Person]

Personally, I have had some aggravation with USB to serial port 
converters so I thought I would pass along my experience with a good 
product.


I always need more than even a couple of serial ports so I don't have to 
go through routines of unplugging and plugging cables.  So I picked up a 
GearMo Quad Port (FTDI) USB to Serial adapter (amazon.com US$48.29).  
This a USB cable that's 24" long to a junction and from there - there 
are 4 36" cables that are long enough to reach their targets.  I plugged 
it to each machine and Windows Update found the drivers, the Macs found 
the drivers and linux had the drivers as well. All was working perfectly 
in every machine in a matter of minutes.


This is great.  I can swap to any OS on any computer and I don't need 4 
seperate serial cables going to various built-in and USB serial ports.  
Works on everything.  I USB port tied up and everything is connected.  
The FTDI Chipset is clearly the best. Tested on Windows 7 64 bit and 32 
bit, Windows 8.1 64 bit, Linux (Ubuntu 1310) 32/64 and Mac OSX  for two 
most latest versions (Mavericks and whatever the last cat was).


The /real/ Prolific chipsets actually do work OK.  The real problem has 
been that most cheap adapters that claim to be Prolific are actually 
knockoffs of an old design that won't work with Prolific's official 
drivers on 64 bit machines. Early Elecraft cables were Prolific. Newer 
ones are all FTDI.


73, Doug -- K0DXV
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 K3 Subreceiver Install

[Charles Tropp]

Hi Phil,

I installed my sub-receiver a few months ago without difficulty. If you 
have been inside your K3 previously, all will seem familiar. If not, 
just follow the directions precisely and you will have no trouble. Don't 
forget to install all your filters for the main receiver before you 
start the new installation so that you don't have to take everything 
apart again to reach them. By the way, I just love KRX3. It is so easy 
to work split now that I cannot remember how I did it before.


Good luck,

Charles, N2SO
On 3/27/2014 7:32 PM, Oliver Dröse wrote:

Hi Phil,

easy ... been there, done that.

It only gets difficult if you want to add other options that are mounted below 
the KRX3 after you did install it as you have to reverse the whole process 
than! So think about it (i.e. additional filters for the main RX) beforehand 
and combine it with the KRX3 if needed.

73 & gl, Olli - DH8BQA




Am 28.03.2014 um 00:07 schrieb Phil Hystad :

I have heard a few stories about the difficulty of installing the KRX3 
sub-receiver into a K3.  Is there a consensus as to whether this is difficult, 
moderate, or reasonably easy straight-forward to install.

Thanks,

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] OT QRP: Low Power QPSK experiment Advice sought

[Mel Farrer]

While off topic, hi.  Look into the old TV signal simulator generator for the 
old Satellite band.  They had some good test sets for modulating a 30 MHz FM 
bandwidth.  It would be a good place to start.  They operated in the 3.7 to 4.2 
GHz band, but the test set had the modulation format at 70 MHz.  Spread 
spectrum would be the next area to look.  That was all wideband digital.  A lot 
of 900 MHz SS stuff is available with a little effort.  A thought.

Mel, K6KBE





On Thursday, March 27, 2014 4:57 PM, Niel Skousen  
wrote:
 
Good Evening All,

This is low power, just not strictly QRP operating.  I'm looking for input and 
advice ** off the list **

I'd like to do some experiments with QPSK and GMSK at 450 - 900 MHz, and 
looking for advice on howto inexpensively do so since I dont have  digital 
modulation signal generator.   I'd like to look at some modulation sideband 
effects at +/- 5x the modulation frequency.    Ideally I'm looking at 5Mbps 
QPSK, but lower bandwidths (~1Mbps) might work for me as similar answers to my 
question ( interference suppression ).

I have an HP 8921 for Spectrum analysis and a decent scope, but no good way to 
generate and decode the digital stream.

Any thoughts for on-the-cheap approach would be appreciated (eval kits etc)

Thanks for the Bandwidth

Niel
WA7SSA
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 K3 Subreceiver Install

[Phil Hystad]

Found it, like the background music too: Santana.

Thanks,
phil

On Mar 27, 2014, at 4:28 PM, Dick Dievendorff  wrote:

> I think PA3A put a video of his install on YouTube.
> 
> Dick, K6KR
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 16:07 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: [Elecraft] KRX3 K3 Subreceiver Install
> 
> I have heard a few stories about the difficulty of installing the KRX3
> sub-receiver into a K3.  Is there a consensus as to whether this is
> difficult, moderate, or reasonably easy straight-forward to install.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 K3 Subreceiver Install

[Slava Baytalskiy]

I just did this last weekend. Put the whole K3 together, including the KRX3.
Just don’t forget to remove the chassis stiffener and all will be well.
Oh, and those little coax interconnects that are on the back side of the front 
panel need to be nice and neat and out of the way.
KRX3 went in very nicely…

> 
>> Am 28.03.2014 um 00:07 schrieb Phil Hystad :
>> 
>> I have heard a few stories about the difficulty of installing the KRX3 
>> sub-receiver into a K3.  Is there a consensus as to whether this is 
>> difficult, moderate, or reasonably easy straight-forward to install.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> 73, phil, K7PEH
>> 
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[Elecraft] OT QRP: Low Power QPSK experiment Advice sought

[Niel Skousen]

Good Evening All,

This is low power, just not strictly QRP operating.  I'm looking for input and 
advice ** off the list **

I'd like to do some experiments with QPSK and GMSK at 450 - 900 MHz, and 
looking for advice on howto inexpensively do so since I dont have  digital 
modulation signal generator.   I'd like to look at some modulation sideband 
effects at +/- 5x the modulation frequency.Ideally I'm looking at 5Mbps 
QPSK, but lower bandwidths (~1Mbps) might work for me as similar answers to my 
question ( interference suppression ).

I have an HP 8921 for Spectrum analysis and a decent scope, but no good way to 
generate and decode the digital stream.

Any thoughts for on-the-cheap approach would be appreciated (eval kits etc)

Thanks for the Bandwidth

Niel
WA7SSA
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 K3 Subreceiver Install

[Oliver Dröse]

Hi Phil,

easy ... been there, done that.

It only gets difficult if you want to add other options that are mounted below 
the KRX3 after you did install it as you have to reverse the whole process 
than! So think about it (i.e. additional filters for the main RX) beforehand 
and combine it with the KRX3 if needed.

73 & gl, Olli - DH8BQA



> Am 28.03.2014 um 00:07 schrieb Phil Hystad :
> 
> I have heard a few stories about the difficulty of installing the KRX3 
> sub-receiver into a K3.  Is there a consensus as to whether this is 
> difficult, moderate, or reasonably easy straight-forward to install.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 K3 Subreceiver Install

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Not difficult,just involved.  A second DSP board needs to be mounted
to the front panel and a second VCO board needs to be mounted to the 
bulkhead.  After that it's easy.


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/27/2014 7:07 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

I have heard a few stories about the difficulty of installing the KRX3 
sub-receiver into a K3.  Is there a consensus as to whether this is difficult, 
moderate, or reasonably easy straight-forward to install.

Thanks,

73, phil, K7PEH

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[Elecraft] KRX3 K3 Subreceiver Install

[Phil Hystad]

I have heard a few stories about the difficulty of installing the KRX3 
sub-receiver into a K3.  Is there a consensus as to whether this is difficult, 
moderate, or reasonably easy straight-forward to install.

Thanks,

73, phil, K7PEH

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[Elecraft] K3 with Signalink - cables

[Chris Meagher]

I would highly recommend the special K3 to Signalink ready-made cable set
from Tigertronics, Very well made and simple plug and play (via rear audio
in/out and PTT).
Works perfectly here over 2 years.
Chris VK2ACD
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[Elecraft] FS: Updated List

[Chuck Secrest]

Updated List of Equipment for Sale

Everything is in excellent condition. All less than 1 yr old.

For the K3:

KFL3A – 2.8k 2.8khz 8 pole filter @ $110.00

KFL3A – 1.8k 1.8khz 8 pole filter @ $110.00

700hz 8 pole Inrad filter. The one sold by unpcbs.com @ $125.00

KBPF3 General Coverage RX Bandpass Module @ $125.00

Additional Equipment:

KXPA100 & KXAT100 with KXPACBL KX3 to KXPA100 integrated Cable (SN 551) 
@ $900.00


Rig Expert AA-54 @ $275.00

SignaLink USB SL-USB with SL-CABK3 cables & SL-MODK3 Plug & Play Jumper 
Module for K3 @ $90.00


PLEASE ALL QUESTIONS & PURCHASE REQUEST DIRECT to me via email “chuck at 
nm1g dot com” NOT ON FORUM.


All prices are firm for at least the first 30 days.
Payment by USPS or Major Bank Money Order or PayPal.

All prices include packing, shipping and insurance to US48. Other areas 
additional.


73 & Thanks for the bandwidth Chuck NM1G
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[Elecraft] Subject: Re: 2 meter EME considerations with the K3

[Edward R Cole]

There are two sources of frequency drift: the TCXO of the K3 and the 
LO of the transverter.

The combined error determines the final frequency stability.

Upgrading to the TCXO-3 improves K3 frequency stability by 
ten.  Adding the EXREF board improves this.


To improve the transverter LO, it would be best to use an external 
LO.  One could build a stable xtal LO or use one of the PLL synth 
boards that I mentioned in an earlier post.  This is not as hard as it sounds.


If you are considering 2m eme this WILL be important.

I run the K3 with TCXO-3/EXREF and my 50w transverter* has 6-Hz drift 
after 30-min of running JT65.

*Not a XV144

73, Ed - KL7UW
---
I don?t believe the external transverter?s frequency stability is any 
better if the K3 has the TCXO option.


I owned an XV144 without the optional TCXO option which I attempted 
to use with meteor scatter, and was very frustrated by its constant 
frequency drift.  After I installed the TCXO in the transverter, the 
frequency was slightly more stable, but still not useful enough for my purpose.


Elecraft told me their external transverters are an older design 
which they admit do not maintain the frequency stability necessary 
for the JT modes.


73 de Sebastian, W4AS


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Another K3-SignaLink question

[Phil Wheeler]

I think we all have such a list, Tom. It just 
takes a while to work through it. K3/KX3 are very 
complex and flexible rigs!


73, Phil w7ox

On 3/27/14, 1:14 PM, Tom Armour wrote:

Thanks for asking and answering this question.  This was on my list of
things to figure out.

Tom - wa4ta


On Thu, Mar 27, 2014 at 3:53 PM, Joe Harris wrote:


Ed,

See page 20 of the K3 manual, in the Line Out setting. You can set the Line
Out level in Config, or it can be set to =PHONES, which is what it sounds
like you have it set to.

73,
Joe, N1QD




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Re: [Elecraft] Another K3-SignaLink question

[Tom Armour]

Thanks for asking and answering this question.  This was on my list of
things to figure out.

Tom - wa4ta


On Thu, Mar 27, 2014 at 3:53 PM, Joe Harris wrote:

> Ed,
>
> See page 20 of the K3 manual, in the Line Out setting. You can set the Line
> Out level in Config, or it can be set to =PHONES, which is what it sounds
> like you have it set to.
>
> 73,
> Joe, N1QD
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 27, 2014 at 3:09 PM, Edward F. Steinfeld <
> edw...@go-embedded.com
> > wrote:
>
> > I have just connected my SignaLink to the K3 using SignaLink supplied K3
> > cables. I find the Line Out amplitude varies according to where I have
> the
> > AF control set. I would have thought that Line Out was a constant signal
> > level. Without setting the AF level quite high I do not get good PSK
> > reception. At those levels it is too loud for my ham shack (and my wife).
> > What I have I set wrong?
> >
> > Ed  --  KB1ZJK
> >
> > Edward F. Steinfeld
> > 25 Arbor Glen Drive
> > Stow, MA 01775-1258
> > Home: (978)897-3127
> > Cell: (978)376-3146
> > mailto::edw...@go-embedded.com
> > http://www.go-embedded.com 
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Steinfeld
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
> --
> Joe Harris, N1QD
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Re: [Elecraft] Another K3-SignaLink question

[Joe Harris]

Ed,

See page 20 of the K3 manual, in the Line Out setting. You can set the Line
Out level in Config, or it can be set to =PHONES, which is what it sounds
like you have it set to.

73,
Joe, N1QD


On Thu, Mar 27, 2014 at 3:09 PM, Edward F. Steinfeld  wrote:

> I have just connected my SignaLink to the K3 using SignaLink supplied K3
> cables. I find the Line Out amplitude varies according to where I have the
> AF control set. I would have thought that Line Out was a constant signal
> level. Without setting the AF level quite high I do not get good PSK
> reception. At those levels it is too loud for my ham shack (and my wife).
> What I have I set wrong?
>
> Ed  --  KB1ZJK
>
> Edward F. Steinfeld
> 25 Arbor Glen Drive
> Stow, MA 01775-1258
> Home: (978)897-3127
> Cell: (978)376-3146
> mailto::edw...@go-embedded.com
> http://www.go-embedded.com 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Steinfeld
>
>
>
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>



-- 
Joe Harris, N1QD
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[Elecraft] Another K3-SignaLink question

[Edward F. Steinfeld]

I have just connected my SignaLink to the K3 using SignaLink supplied K3
cables. I find the Line Out amplitude varies according to where I have the
AF control set. I would have thought that Line Out was a constant signal
level. Without setting the AF level quite high I do not get good PSK
reception. At those levels it is too loud for my ham shack (and my wife).
What I have I set wrong?

Ed  --  KB1ZJK

Edward F. Steinfeld
25 Arbor Glen Drive
Stow, MA 01775-1258
Home: (978)897-3127
Cell: (978)376-3146
mailto::edw...@go-embedded.com
http://www.go-embedded.com  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Steinfeld 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - "INFO 80 " problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Giuliano,

From the Elecraft website www.elecraft.com, order K2FWMCIO - see the 
Order page and then Spare Parts, and then select K2 on the page which opens.
Be aware that you must have the updated wiring on the Control Board for 
the sidetone source.
If you have the KPA100 or the KIO2 installed, that change has already 
been made.  If it is not installed, refer to the KIO2 or KPA100 manual 
(which you can download) and you will see the changes to the Control 
Board in the installation section.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 2:31 PM, Giuliano wrote:

Thanks for everyone's help.
I cleaned the contacts on the microprocessor of the Control Board and 
RF Board and now the message seems to have disappeared

( INFO 80).
I checked the firmware version that is 1.04A (main) and 1:02 on I / O.
I think it is useful to update the firmware but can not find how to 
order the two microprocessors. How do I get them?

Thanks again
Giuliano I0CG
ITALY
Il 27/03/2014 14:28, Phil Wheeler ha scritto:

Hi, Giuliano --

Congratulations on your K2. Once you have it whipped into shape, 
you'll find it to be a fine radio. Plus there's hardly anything in it 
you cannot work on and fix yourself if you build kits like the K1.


One of the K2 manual appendices is "Troubleshooting". You should give 
that a look.


Before you do any updates contact the previous owner and see if he 
can provide a list of any updates which may have already been done. I 
have #380 and back then the K2 was still a "work in progress" with 
most of us doing updates incrementally as they were posted on the 
Elecraft email reflector. For example, my K2 was something of a 
continual project from July 1999 until June 2003, and I made *most* 
of the changes identified during that period. Then I was away from my 
obsessive focus on ham radio for close to ten years. When I started 
using my K2/100 again I found that I had made most of the changes, 
but there were some left to do -- and some I didn't need or want to 
do. I made one of those changes I wanted earlier this month. Your 
seller of the K2 may have made most of the changes already, or some 
of them or none of them.


If you've not been there, go to this page 
http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#K2 and in 
particular download this file 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf  It provides a list of 
the major changes in the basic (10 Watt) K2 and options.  See if you 
can determine which have been done -- by asking the original owner or 
inspection.


You will probably want to update to the latest firmware, unless 
that's already been done. You can determine several firmware versions 
by using menu options from the front panel; others will require 
disassembly and looking at the label on the chip.


If you have the KPA100 there are other mods and updates which can be 
done (there is an update kit and a mod kit for the KPA100).


Have fun with your K2. I have the K3/P3 combo and find that the 
K2/100 still holds its own in that company.


73, Phil w7ox

On 3/26/14, 11:02 PM, Giuliano wrote:

I bought a K2 SN 670 to complete my collection Elecraft.
I now have K1, K2 and K3 + P3.
The K2 serial number  is very low and I think some changes are 
essential and others less so. Can anyone tell me what mods are the 
really important?
I also have a problem that occurs very frequently: when I change 
band +/-, very often comes out "INFO 080". What can I do?

Thanks for the help
I0CG Italy








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Re: [Elecraft] FLDIGI rig control, mic disable

[Don Wilhelm]

Jack,

Go into the main menu and turn off MIC+LINE and both mic inputs will be 
muted.
I assume you have MIC SEL set to LINE, but check that too or your data 
mode transmission will not work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 2:25 PM, Jack Berry wrote:

Is there a way for FLDIGI to mute the front panel mic input with transmitting 
digital modes?
I use FLDIGI 3.21.77 with SignaLink USB, mostly for MT63 MARS work.
The SLUSB is connected to the Line In on the back panel. It all works well 
except.

While transmitting MT63 the mic remains open, normally no problem. However if a 
dog barks or a phone rings then all bets are off on the quality of the 
transmission. This is especially true if conditions are marginal.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - "INFO 80 " problem

[Giuliano]

Thanks for everyone's help.
I cleaned the contacts on the microprocessor of the Control Board and RF 
Board and now the message seems to have disappeared

( INFO 80).
I checked the firmware version that is 1.04A (main) and 1:02 on I / O.
I think it is useful to update the firmware but can not find how to 
order the two microprocessors. How do I get them?

Thanks again
Giuliano I0CG
ITALY
Il 27/03/2014 14:28, Phil Wheeler ha scritto:

Hi, Giuliano --

Congratulations on your K2. Once you have it whipped into shape, 
you'll find it to be a fine radio. Plus there's hardly anything in it 
you cannot work on and fix yourself if you build kits like the K1.


One of the K2 manual appendices is "Troubleshooting". You should give 
that a look.


Before you do any updates contact the previous owner and see if he can 
provide a list of any updates which may have already been done. I have 
#380 and back then the K2 was still a "work in progress" with most of 
us doing updates incrementally as they were posted on the Elecraft 
email reflector. For example, my K2 was something of a continual 
project from July 1999 until June 2003, and I made *most* of the 
changes identified during that period. Then I was away from my 
obsessive focus on ham radio for close to ten years. When I started 
using my K2/100 again I found that I had made most of the changes, but 
there were some left to do -- and some I didn't need or want to do. I 
made one of those changes I wanted earlier this month. Your seller of 
the K2 may have made most of the changes already, or some of them or 
none of them.


If you've not been there, go to this page 
http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#K2 and in 
particular download this file 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf  It provides a list of 
the major changes in the basic (10 Watt) K2 and options.  See if you 
can determine which have been done -- by asking the original owner or 
inspection.


You will probably want to update to the latest firmware, unless that's 
already been done. You can determine several firmware versions by 
using menu options from the front panel; others will require 
disassembly and looking at the label on the chip.


If you have the KPA100 there are other mods and updates which can be 
done (there is an update kit and a mod kit for the KPA100).


Have fun with your K2. I have the K3/P3 combo and find that the K2/100 
still holds its own in that company.


73, Phil w7ox

On 3/26/14, 11:02 PM, Giuliano wrote:

I bought a K2 SN 670 to complete my collection Elecraft.
I now have K1, K2 and K3 + P3.
The K2 serial number  is very low and I think some changes are 
essential and others less so. Can anyone tell me what mods are the 
really important?
I also have a problem that occurs very frequently: when I change band 
+/-, very often comes out "INFO 080". What can I do?

Thanks for the help
I0CG Italy








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[Elecraft] FLDIGI rig control, mic disable

[Jack Berry]

Is there a way for FLDIGI to mute the front panel mic input with transmitting 
digital modes?
I use FLDIGI 3.21.77 with SignaLink USB, mostly for MT63 MARS work.
The SLUSB is connected to the Line In on the back panel. It all works well 
except.

While transmitting MT63 the mic remains open, normally no problem. However if a 
dog barks or a phone rings then all bets are off on the quality of the 
transmission. This is especially true if conditions are marginal.

Thanks for any help!




God Bless & 73!
Jack - WE5ST
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 with other QRP rigs...

[Phil Hystad]

Thanks.

phil, K7PEH

On Mar 27, 2014, at 10:07 AM, Igor Sokolov  wrote:

> Phil,
> With 1 W drive I get around 25-30 W on 15 and 10 m bands and close to 50W on 
> 20 m band from KXPA100
> 
> 73, Igor UA9CDC
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Phil Hystad" 
> To: "Walter Underwood" 
> Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 10:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 with other QRP rigs...
> 
> 
> Yes, but that does not answer my question.  I could have been more clear I 
> guess.   I am thinking that this 3.5 to 7 watt range is to achieve 100 watts 
> output.  I am asking about, say, 1 watt drive and certainly I expect the 
> output to be lower.
> 
> phil, K7PEH
> 
> 
> On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:21 AM, Walter Underwood  wrote:
> 
>> This can be answered by reading the specs in the manual.
>> 
>> "Drive Power: 3.5 to 7 watts, typical, for 100 W ± 1 dB output"
>> 
>> wunder
>> K6WRU
>> 
>> On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:17 AM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
>> 
>>> Has anyone used the new KXPA100 100-watt amplifier with other "simple" QRP 
>>> rigs?  By simple I am thinking of as simple as the Norcal 40A and maybe as 
>>> complex as the Elecraft K1.
>>> 
>>> Two issues that I can think of:
>>> 
>>> 1.  RF Drive.  Is 1 to 2.5 watts RF sufficient to drive the KXPA100 cleanly?
>>> 
>>> 2.  Key out.  Most of these simple rigs (as far as I know) do not have an 
>>> amp keying interface.  It would be nice if they did to QSK key the KXPA100 
>>> (thus, driven by the rigs electronic keyer).
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Is it hard to put a key output line in something like the Norcal 40A or 
>>> maybe the KX1?
>>> 
>>> Thanks for your comments.
>>> 
>>> 73, phil, K7PEH
>>> 
>>> __
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>>> Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org
>> 
>> --
>> Walter Underwood
>> wun...@wunderwood.org
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 with other QRP rigs...

[Igor Sokolov]

Phil,
With 1 W drive I get around 25-30 W on 15 and 10 m bands and close to 50W on 
20 m band from KXPA100


73, Igor UA9CDC

- Original Message - 
From: "Phil Hystad" 

To: "Walter Underwood" 
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 with other QRP rigs...


Yes, but that does not answer my question.  I could have been more clear I 
guess.   I am thinking that this 3.5 to 7 watt range is to achieve 100 watts 
output.  I am asking about, say, 1 watt drive and certainly I expect the 
output to be lower.


phil, K7PEH


On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:21 AM, Walter Underwood  wrote:


This can be answered by reading the specs in the manual.

"Drive Power: 3.5 to 7 watts, typical, for 100 W ± 1 dB output"

wunder
K6WRU

On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:17 AM, Phil Hystad  wrote:

Has anyone used the new KXPA100 100-watt amplifier with other "simple" 
QRP rigs?  By simple I am thinking of as simple as the Norcal 40A and 
maybe as complex as the Elecraft K1.


Two issues that I can think of:

1.  RF Drive.  Is 1 to 2.5 watts RF sufficient to drive the KXPA100 
cleanly?


2.  Key out.  Most of these simple rigs (as far as I know) do not have an 
amp keying interface.  It would be nice if they did to QSK key the 
KXPA100 (thus, driven by the rigs electronic keyer).



Is it hard to put a key output line in something like the Norcal 40A or 
maybe the KX1?


Thanks for your comments.

73, phil, K7PEH

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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 with other QRP rigs...

[Phil Hystad]

Yes, but that does not answer my question.  I could have been more clear I 
guess.   I am thinking that this 3.5 to 7 watt range is to achieve 100 watts 
output.  I am asking about, say, 1 watt drive and certainly I expect the output 
to be lower.

phil, K7PEH


On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:21 AM, Walter Underwood  wrote:

> This can be answered by reading the specs in the manual.
> 
> "Drive Power: 3.5 to 7 watts, typical, for 100 W ± 1 dB output"
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> 
> On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:17 AM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
>> Has anyone used the new KXPA100 100-watt amplifier with other "simple" QRP 
>> rigs?  By simple I am thinking of as simple as the Norcal 40A and maybe as 
>> complex as the Elecraft K1.
>> 
>> Two issues that I can think of:
>> 
>> 1.  RF Drive.  Is 1 to 2.5 watts RF sufficient to drive the KXPA100 cleanly?
>> 
>> 2.  Key out.  Most of these simple rigs (as far as I know) do not have an 
>> amp keying interface.  It would be nice if they did to QSK key the KXPA100 
>> (thus, driven by the rigs electronic keyer).
>> 
>> 
>> Is it hard to put a key output line in something like the Norcal 40A or 
>> maybe the KX1?
>> 
>> Thanks for your comments.
>> 
>> 73, phil, K7PEH
>> 
>> __
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> 
> --
> Walter Underwood
> wun...@wunderwood.org
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 with other QRP rigs...

[Walter Underwood]

This can be answered by reading the specs in the manual.

"Drive Power: 3.5 to 7 watts, typical, for 100 W ± 1 dB output"

wunder
K6WRU

On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:17 AM, Phil Hystad  wrote:

> Has anyone used the new KXPA100 100-watt amplifier with other "simple" QRP 
> rigs?  By simple I am thinking of as simple as the Norcal 40A and maybe as 
> complex as the Elecraft K1.
> 
> Two issues that I can think of:
> 
> 1.  RF Drive.  Is 1 to 2.5 watts RF sufficient to drive the KXPA100 cleanly?
> 
> 2.  Key out.  Most of these simple rigs (as far as I know) do not have an amp 
> keying interface.  It would be nice if they did to QSK key the KXPA100 (thus, 
> driven by the rigs electronic keyer).
> 
> 
> Is it hard to put a key output line in something like the Norcal 40A or maybe 
> the KX1?
> 
> Thanks for your comments.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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[Elecraft] KXPA100 with other QRP rigs...

[Phil Hystad]

Has anyone used the new KXPA100 100-watt amplifier with other "simple" QRP 
rigs?  By simple I am thinking of as simple as the Norcal 40A and maybe as 
complex as the Elecraft K1.

Two issues that I can think of:

1.  RF Drive.  Is 1 to 2.5 watts RF sufficient to drive the KXPA100 cleanly?

2.  Key out.  Most of these simple rigs (as far as I know) do not have an amp 
keying interface.  It would be nice if they did to QSK key the KXPA100 (thus, 
driven by the rigs electronic keyer).


Is it hard to put a key output line in something like the Norcal 40A or maybe 
the KX1?

Thanks for your comments.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] 2 meter EME considerations with the K3

[Sebastian, W4AS]

I don’t believe the external transverter’s frequency stability is any better if 
the K3 has the TCXO option.  

I owned an XV144 without the optional TCXO option which I attempted to use with 
meteor scatter, and was very frustrated by its constant frequency drift.  After 
I installed the TCXO in the transverter, the frequency was slightly more 
stable, but still not useful enough for my purpose.

Elecraft told me their external transverters are an older design which they 
admit do not maintain the frequency stability necessary for the JT modes.

73 de Sebastian, W4AS



On Mar 27, 2014, at 12:30 AM, John Lawrence  wrote:

> The K3 with it's internal transverter and new external 10 MHz reference 
> option make staying within 2 or 3 Hz possible. The external reference 
> stabilizes both the K3 and the K3's internal transverter LO.  Where as, the 
> separate XV144 with it's own TCXO option for the LO make it possible to stay 
> within 10 Hz or so if the K3 has its own TCXO option.  With the XV144, 
> temperature change during continuous 10 watt output on J65 it will cause some 
> drift with dissipation heat  
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[Elecraft] K3 Internal 70MHz Transverter

[WW2R Elecraft]

For those interested in such things,  I see an aftermarket 70MHz Internal K3
Transverter with 28MHz IF on ebayuk. It is made in EA9. Item # 121290408912
also shows on ebay.com

Dave

G4FRE

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KW 1000 amp

[WILLIS COOKE]

I don't have any experience with the KW1000 but the internet reference says it 
is a near copy of an SB-200 Heathkit.  There are many of the SB-200 in use.  I 
have used my K3 to drive a Clipperton L with little difficulty and the main 
difference is that the Clipperton has four of the 572B tubes instead of two.  I 
would connect the relay and ALC as well as a coaxial cable for the RF and start 
with about 30 watts of output then increase it until you get the proper 
performance.  There is not a lot of precautions for the K3 and it is straight 
forward.  Just read the manual on both the amp and the transceiver and you 
should be successful if both are in proper operating condition.  I have retired 
my Clipperton because good Cetron 572Bs are no longer being manufactured and 
the Chinese Tubes are not good quality.  I would not recommend putting much 
into any 572B amplifier unless I had in hand good tubes to use.  You can 
successfully replace 811s with
 572Bs, but do not go the other way unless you have a different plate supply as 
the 572 is good for around 2500 volts and the 811 for less.  I think most 811 
amps run 4 tubes and around 1500 volts.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Tony Nightingale 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 6:16 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 to KW 1000 amp
 

Hi, I have a K3 and want a simple way to use it to drive a KW 1000 linear 
Amplifier.    has anyone done this and how??

Tony   G3ZPU
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - "INFO 80 " problem

[Phil Wheeler]

Hi, Giuliano --

Congratulations on your K2. Once you have it 
whipped into shape, you'll find it to be a fine 
radio. Plus there's hardly anything in it you 
cannot work on and fix yourself if you build kits 
like the K1.


One of the K2 manual appendices is 
"Troubleshooting". You should give that a look.


Before you do any updates contact the previous 
owner and see if he can provide a list of any 
updates which may have already been done. I have 
#380 and back then the K2 was still a "work in 
progress" with most of us doing updates 
incrementally as they were posted on the Elecraft 
email reflector. For example, my K2 was something 
of a continual project from July 1999 until June 
2003, and I made *most* of the changes identified 
during that period. Then I was away from my 
obsessive focus on ham radio for close to ten 
years. When I started using my K2/100 again I 
found that I had made most of the changes, but 
there were some left to do -- and some I didn't 
need or want to do. I made one of those changes I 
wanted earlier this month. Your seller of the K2 
may have made most of the changes already, or some 
of them or none of them.


If you've not been there, go to this page 
http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#K2 
and in particular download this file 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf  It 
provides a list of the major changes in the basic 
(10 Watt) K2 and options.  See if you can 
determine which have been done -- by asking the 
original owner or inspection.


You will probably want to update to the latest 
firmware, unless that's already been done. You can 
determine several firmware versions by using menu 
options from the front panel; others will require 
disassembly and looking at the label on the chip.


If you have the KPA100 there are other mods and 
updates which can be done (there is an update kit 
and a mod kit for the KPA100).


Have fun with your K2. I have the K3/P3 combo and 
find that the K2/100 still holds its own in that 
company.


73, Phil w7ox

On 3/26/14, 11:02 PM, Giuliano wrote:
I bought a K2 SN 670 to complete my collection 
Elecraft.

I now have K1, K2 and K3 + P3.
The K2 serial number  is very low and I think 
some changes are essential and others less so. 
Can anyone tell me what mods are the really 
important?
I also have a problem that occurs very 
frequently: when I change band +/-, very often 
comes out "INFO 080". What can I do?

Thanks for the help
I0CG Italy





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[Elecraft] test

[Ian White]

Like I said.

73 from Ian GM3SEK



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Re: [Elecraft] Has the KX1 changed in 5 years?

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

Not much has changed in the KX1.  About the only changes have been a 
release of the firmware to support the KXB3080 option and a change in 
the number of turns on L3 to enable the PA to work better on 80 meters.  
If that KX1 has the KXB3080 option installed, those changes have been 
installed.  Without the KXB3080 option, it is still up to date, and 
those changes would be installed as part of the KXB3080 installation.
BTW, if you do order the KXB3080 option and your KX1 firmware is 1.01, 
let Elecraft know that you need updated firmware - it will be provided 
at no extra cost.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2014 10:36 PM, cockpit...@aol.com wrote:

Greetings all.  I recently fell in love with QRP CW and have outgrown my TenTec 
R4020.  I'm an engineer and use a soldering iron a lot at work, and I'm busy 
these days so a build project doesn't excite me. right now.  I have a lead on a 
5 year old KX1 and was wondering if they've changed much in 5 years.  I'm fine 
with little mods and tweaks but want to make sure it isn't dramatically 
different from the new ones.  Have they changed much in 5 years?



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - "INFO 80 " problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Go to the Elecraft website and download the K2 A to B instructions. That 
contains a list of related mods.

You may want to also download the instructions for those mods as well.
Review those instructions against your physical K2 to see if they have 
been installed.


I would also suggest changing the IF crystals on both the RF board and 
the KSB2 (if installed).  If the crystals installed have a "-S" suffix, 
they are the new type, but any other suffix is the older type.  The new 
crystals will improve your filter passband shape.


The INFO 080 says there has been a failure of AUXBUS communications 
between the main MCU and one of the other firmware ICs in the K2 system 
(that includes the IOC on the RF Board).  Since it happens when you 
change bands, it is most likely the IOC communications. The first step 
is to re-seat the MCU on the control board and the IOC to clean any 
oxidation from the socket and the pins.  If you have the KPA100 option 
installed, it could also be the KPA100 communication - re-seat its 
firmware IC too.
If it persists, begin removing the installed options to see when it 
disappears.
That problem could also be caused by a bad solder connection.  If it is 
intermittent, it may take some time and trial and error to track it down.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/27/2014 2:02 AM, Giuliano wrote:

I bought a K2 SN 670 to complete my collection Elecraft.
I now have K1, K2 and K3 + P3.
The K2 serial number  is very low and I think some changes are 
essential and others less so. Can anyone tell me what mods are the 
really important?
I also have a problem that occurs very frequently: when I change band 
+/-, very often comes out "INFO 080". What can I do?

Thanks for the help
I0CG Italy
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - using the Manual NTCH

[Pierfrancesco Caci]

> "Bill" == Bill W2BLC  writes:


Bill> I just noticed that when the Manual NTCH is engaged and the frequency
Bill> of the notch is set using VFO B - the main VFO is locked. You cannot
Bill> change frequency with VFO A, however the frequency can be controlled
Bill> via HRD. This lock can be toggled off by pressing the A/B button.

VFO A knob is disabled while you're in notch configuration mode, if you
press NTCH again you'll still have the notch at the desired offset
and you can move VFO A again. I see that pressing any other key also
exits from config mode (as it should be), so this is probably what
you're seeing. 


Bill> Is this a feature? Anomaly? Or, just one of those odd little things
Bill> that can happen when something is designed to be foolproof - and
Bill> underestimating the ingenuity a complete fool.

I wouldn't see the need to lock computer control of VFO A while setting
notch. 

Pf

-- 
Pierfrancesco Caci, ik5pvx
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[Elecraft] K3 - using the Manual NTCH

[Bill W2BLC]

I just noticed that when the Manual NTCH is engaged and the frequency of 
the notch is set using VFO B - the main VFO is locked. You cannot change 
frequency with VFO A, however the frequency can be controlled via HRD. 
This lock can be toggled off by pressing the A/B button.


Is this a feature? Anomaly? Or, just one of those odd little things that 
can happen when something is designed to be foolproof - and 
underestimating the ingenuity a complete fool.


Bill Clarke K-Line
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[Elecraft] K3 to KW 1000 amp

[Tony Nightingale]

Hi, I have a K3 and want a simple way to use it to drive a KW 1000 linear 
Amplifier.has anyone done this and how??

Tony   G3ZPU
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