Re: [Elecraft] Field Day tips

2014-06-16 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/16/2014 8:36 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Here are our annual tips for getting the most out of your Elecraft rig at field 
day:


I'll add some more tips about QRP on Field Day. I've done three QRP 
Field Days, and one of them our group won for 1A battery. The same group 
came in second when we tried 2A with a second station on SSB part time.


1) Use the most efficient antennas that you can. A wire thrown over a 
tree and a radial laying on the ground will get you on the air, but a 
resonant dipole high in those trees can easily be 3-6 dB better. And 
even more radials with that wire in the tree, and picking them up off 
the ground, will add a few dB to your signal.


2) Use the most efficient feedline that you can. If you're only putting 
out 5W, don't burn 2W in RG58. Use RG8, RG11, RG213.


3) Get your antennas as high as you can. On 80M, 10 ft more height for a 
dipole is worth about 1 dB, 5 ft for a 40M dipole.


4) Don't waste your time with SSB on FD. CW can be reasonably 
competitive QRP, and a lot of fun. SSB only be described as a struggle, 
and is definitely not fun. Been there, done that, burned the Tee shirt. :)


The combination of #1, #2, and #3 can easily make a 10-15 dB difference 
in your signal. 13 dB is the difference between 5W and 100W.


And here are some tips to help you avoid RF noise problems on Field Day. 
If you can't hear 'em, you can't work 'em.


http://nccc.cc/pdf/CQP-RFI2013-2.pdf

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/16/2014 3:44 PM, Gerald Manthey wrote:

This group is a bunch of middle aged business owners who were feed with a
silver spoon. I brought up used equipment and was told they buy only the
best.
Then we all walked out to the parking lot and my Toyota truck was
surrounded by $50,000 trucks. Hihi.
Okay they got the money but was wanting to teach a more hands on ham.


I would recommend the K-line to this group. If they want some of the 
building experience, they will enjoy building them as kits.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Walter Underwood
Also, the K2 is a great radio with 1999 technology. The KX3 is a great radio 
with 2012 technology. Because a lot of that technology is computers (DSP), that 
decade-plus allows some big advances.

On the other hand, I've seen some used K2's at very attractive prices. A used 
K2 might be the best deal in ham radio.

wunder
K6WRU

On Jun 16, 2014, at 8:04 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Gerald Manthey  wrote:
> 
>> middle aged business owners fed with a silver spoon$50,000 
>> trucks50 foot tower
> 
> I'm thinking KX3 :)
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, if they really want to build, and that's the most important thing, 
> then K2-them. But the KX3 has a number of bands and operating modes the K3 
> doesn't, and that breadth may be important to someone who wants to dabble in 
> both the legacy and newer aspects of the hobby.
> 
> If they're really anxious to make a big splash, go for the gold ring, and 
> {insert your metaphor here}, you might tell them about the K3 as well. They 
> can start with a K3/10 without frills, and add widgets to match their 
> evolving interests. The K-Line is unmatched as a contesting and DX station, 
> should that be where their fancy trucks take them.
> 
> 
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
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--
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wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3 [TYPO]

2014-06-16 Thread Wayne Burdick
>> But the KX3 has a number of bands and operating modes the K3 doesn't…

Sorry, that's "K2".

Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] Field Day tips

2014-06-16 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi all,

Here are our annual tips for getting the most out of your Elecraft rig at field 
day:

1. QRP/BATTERY OPERATION: To conserve battery power, use 5.0 watts or less when 
running from a 12-V source, and 3.0 watts or less when running from an 8-10 V 
source (including internal batteries). To reduce supply current in receive 
mode, use headphones rather than the internal speaker, and if lighting 
conditions permit, turn off the LCD backlight. The KX3 automatically switches 
its 10-W power amplifier to a more efficient setting at reduced supply 
voltages. You can tell when this power-saving mode is in effect because of a 
decimal point after the 'W' in the power value (e.g., "5.0 W."). 

2. ANTENNA SPACING: If you're using more than one transmitter, try to keep the 
antennas as far apart as possible, and/or perpendicular to each other. If two 
stations unavoidably have their antennas in each other's near fields, you can 
dig into a pretty deep bag of tricks at the receive end, including: reducing 
preamp gain (or turning the preamp off), turning on the attenuator, narrowing 
the filter bandwidth, turning the noise blanker off, and (in the case of the 
KX3) setting MENU:RX SHFT to 8.0 rather than NOR. All of these settings are 
per-band.

3. OSCILLATOR ISOLATION (KX3-specific): The KX3, like other radios with a 
quadrature direct-conversion architecture, uses a VFO (local oscillator) 
running at or very close to the operating frequency. If you have another radio 
on the same band as the KX3, and the antennas are close together, the other 
radio may be able to hear the KX3's oscillator when they're both tuned to the 
same frequency. To prevent this, the KX3 includes an isolation amplifier that 
keeps the oscillator from radiating back through the mixer. Normally this 
amplifier is turned off to save about 15 mA of receive-mode current drain. To 
turn on the isolation amp, set MENU:RX ISO to ON. This has no effect on receive 
performance.

Above all, have fun!

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Wayne Burdick
Gerald Manthey  wrote:

> middle aged business owners fed with a silver spoon$50,000 
> trucks50 foot tower

I'm thinking KX3 :)



Seriously, if they really want to build, and that's the most important thing, 
then K2-them. But the KX3 has a number of bands and operating modes the K3 
doesn't, and that breadth may be important to someone who wants to dabble in 
both the legacy and newer aspects of the hobby.

If they're really anxious to make a big splash, go for the gold ring, and 
{insert your metaphor here}, you might tell them about the K3 as well. They can 
start with a K3/10 without frills, and add widgets to match their evolving 
interests. The K-Line is unmatched as a contesting and DX station, should that 
be where their fancy trucks take them.



Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 mini observations

2014-06-16 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Oliver,

> The mini is used in tilted postion like the KX3. So I would have expected the 
> same display like in the KX3 to be used…

We switched to the KX3 display very early in production. Contact customer 
support for a replacement (or we can do it for you, no charge).


> The manual gives a lot of hints concerning remote use itself but lacks 
> completely concerning the hardware of the mini itself.

A significant update of the manual is pending. We were all a bit rushed getting 
the product into field test. We'll send you a copy of the latest when it comes 
out.

Thanks for the feedback!

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] A product that would revolutionize ham radio

2014-06-16 Thread Phil Hystad
Interesting idea but I can't understand how using coaxial cable for a well 
matched system be just as effective.  I operate my KX3 (and, before that my 
KX1) in portable situations with compromise antennas and everything works 
nicely with today's available resources and products.  I just got myself a 
Buddistick antenna to play around with.  I have had it for two weeks but 
haven't had the chance yet to put it into operation but it is just one of a 
number of good portable antenna situations.

Other pretty descent solutions besides the Buddipole (dipole arrangement) and 
the new SteppIR CrankIR antenna include just plain wire in the tree or whatever.

All my portable work is QRP but all of these solutions are pretty good for the 
HOA resident too operating at 100 watts or even higher (although, some of these 
antennas, such as the Buddistick, are limited in total power handling.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jun 16, 2014, at 11:21 AM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:

> I am presenting the idea below in the hope that some manufacturer will 
> embrace it. No royalties will be demanded! :-)
> 
> One of the biggest problems facing today's hams contemplating HF operation is 
> the prohibition of antennas by HOA's, etc. One way of dealing with this is a 
> with temporary antenna that can be set up only when operating. But there are 
> lots of compromises -- in efficiency, flexibility, wasted time -- that this 
> entails.
> 
> Many hams also would like to operate from temporary locations -- 
> mountaintops, building roofs, beaches, campsites, cruise ships, rowboats, 
> etc. There are many approaches to this, but they generally require setup of 
> several station components which may or may not be practical, and which takes 
> time that might not be available.
> 
> I propose a device that I call a Universal Amateur Station (UAS) that will 
> make it possible to operate an /effective/ station in the greatest possible 
> number of environments with an absolute minimum amount of setup.
> 
> Picture a folding tripod with a vertical whip on top and a box at the point 
> where the legs meet the vertical part. The tripod will comprise an off-center 
> fed vertical antenna, with the legs working against the vertical part.  The 
> box will contain a transceiver capable of QRP to 100 watts output, internal 
> batteries for 5-watt operation, an automatic antenna matching device, and a 
> wireless link controller.
> 
> I am thinking of a package the size of an airline-approved carry-on. It 
> should be practical with some ingenuity to make such a thing with an antenna 
> that can extend to about 17 feet (5m), but it should also be possible to use 
> in smaller configurations if space isn't available. It should be easier to 
> set up than the usual tent.
> 
> There will also be a control head which will contain a built-in paddle and 
> microphone.
> 
> The HOA-oppressed ham can simply unfold the unit in his backyard, on an 
> accessible roof, etc. and sit in any comfortable location within range and 
> operate.
> 
> In a hotel? Unfold it on your balcony. Driving around and see a nice spot? 
> Place it on the roof of the vehicle and connect it to the battery for a full 
> 100 watts. Camping? Set it up outside your tent or on a nearby hill. A small 
> notebook computer would be the only accessory needed for an instant FD 
> station or DXpedition. Of course you would not need it for casual operation. 
> The possible uses in an emergency can easily be imagined.
> 
> If you have seen the mechanical ingenuity demonstrated by the makers of 
> camping and hiking gear, you can see that it is possible to make something 
> like this remarkably small and light.
> 
> Why is this better than, for example, a KX3 and Buddipole? For one thing, 
> there is no feedline or fiddling with the antenna necessary. The integrated 
> transmitter/tuner/antenna is more efficient. The lack of a feedline makes it 
> possible to place it on the roof of a building that you don't own and operate 
> from inside.
> 
> -- 
> Vic
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Re: [Elecraft] A product that would revolutionize ham radio

2014-06-16 Thread Tony Estep
On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 5:37 PM, K8JHR  wrote:

> I would NOT want an all in one solution

==
If some manufacturer thought this was a good idea, I suppose they could do
some market research. One data point would be to survey how many KX3 owners
have rigged theirs up with a whip and made it into a porta-station -- not
many, I suspect. There may be some HF operators who would like such a
thing, but the majority of licensees are Technicians, who have had such a
gadget for more than 40 years. And by the way, the HT did revolutionize ham
radio, in a certain sense. As an HF operator, my preference is to have an
efficient enough antenna to make contacts easy and solid, rather than to be
able to cart it all around in one piece, or strap it to my belt.

Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
If you steer them to a kit that they won't build, or won't successfully 
build, then none of them will be on the air a year from now


On 6/16/2014 5:36 PM, K8JHR wrote:
Having an expensive station does not, itself, make a good operator, 
any more than owning a super sports car makes one a good driver.  I 
wonder how many of these big dollar suits will be on the air a year 
from now...


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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread K8JHR
Big money business types usually like to be told what to buy, and will 
spend a lot on a single recommendation (as they often do in business) 
and totally miss the fun learning about radios, antennas, towers, and 
accessory OPTIONS and CHOICES.  Some guys rush through the process of 
building a station, which I feel is a big part of the hobby.  Some guys 
figure they are better hams because they wrote a big check.


My personal ham hero is the regular guy working man with 300 confirmed 
entities, running barefoot with a $1000 radio, and a couple of well made 
and thoughtfully designed home made antennas.  He has researched and 
agonized over every aspect of his station, and never makes an 
unjustified purchase.,  He develops good operating skills, and can whip 
the pants off a lot of other guys running big power into big beams on 
tall towers.


Having an expensive station does not, itself, make a good operator, any 
more than owning a super sports car makes one a good driver.  I wonder 
how many of these big dollar suits will be on the air a year from now...


Just MY take.
-- JHR ---





On 6/16/2014 6:44 PM, Gerald Manthey wrote:

Yeah Don
That is what I was just thinking.
This group is a bunch of middle aged business owners who were feed with a
silver spoon. I brought up used equipment and was told they buy only the
best.
Then we all walked out to the parking lot and my Toyota truck was
surrounded by $50,000 trucks. Hihi.
Okay they got the money but was wanting to teach a more hands on ham.

We start antennas this week so hopefully they will want to make them. One
guy already had a company come out and install a 50 foot tower on his
farm/ranch.

Thanks
Gerald.
On Jun 16, 2014 5:34 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:


Gerald,

I believe the KX3 is the better general choice for new hams.  They can get
it in kit form so they can have the pride of making it themselves, even
though there is no soldering.

For those who are experienced with soldering as well as properly following
written instructions, and really want to solder their kit together from
thru-hole components, the K2 is an excellent choice.

Yes, the price difference is minimal and the extra features offered by the
KX3 (data modes, FM, AM, dual receive, etc.) make it more flexible than the
K2.

If the new ham wants only a basic CW QRP transceiver, then the K2 price is
much lower.

The other point to be made is that the cost of expanding the K2 to a 100
watt transceiver is less than a KX3 with the KXPA3 and KXAT3.
For a 100 watt transceiver, the basic K3/100 and KX3 with KXPA100 are
priced within the same ballpark, so you may want to add the K3 to your list
of suggestions.

New hams may not have resonant antennas, so an antenna tuner may be an
asset.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/16/2014 5:53 PM, KC6CNN wrote:


I have been training new hams to pass their test and get licensed.
During one of the classes we looked at my rigs K3, KX3, K2, Drake TR-4.
I was telling them how proud they would feel having built their own rigs
and
that the K2 was a good radio. It is hard to push the K2 to them when the
price difference is so minimal between the K2 and the KX3. The KX3 also
has
so many more features that it is hard to get them to put that a side for
the
pride in making it themselves.
What would you guys suggest?
Features verses the pride in making it yourself. Price difference is
minimal.
Thanks
Gerald - KC6CNN





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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Gary W. Hvizdak
Monday June 16 @ 17:53:27 EDT Gerald (KC6CNN) wrote ...

"It is hard to push the K2 ... when the price difference is so minimal ...
What would you guys suggest?"

--- - - - ---

IMHO the only thing that matters is what the buyer wants.  If building
appeals to them more than operating, then they'll be drawn to the K2 without
your prodding.  If they do choose the K2, please be sure to invite them to
visit http://www.unpcbs.com/ to learn about Rework Eliminator(TM)
aftermarket K2 accessories, and the Option-Ready alternate K2 assembly
method they make possible.

--- - - - ---

While I'm writing, (and kind of on the subject of the KX3) I'd like to
invite everyone to check out a website I've been creating for Fred Meier,
VE7FMN.  It describes his Cooler KX(TM) line of "painstakingly designed and
meticulously crafted" aftermarket KX3 heatsinks.

I've only been working on the site for a little more than a week, so it
is still very much a work in progress.  In particular, I expect to have a
new ordering webpage up within about 36 hours.  If you want to order one of
Fred's heatsinks, you might wish to wait until the new ordering webpage goes
live, as it will dramatically simplify the ordering process and offer
several new optional accessories.  Best of all the short wait for the new
page won't delay delivery of your heatsink, since the next batch just "went
to paint" today (a two week process), and won't ship until early July.

If you email me off Reflector, I will let you know the moment the new
ordering page goes live.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
webmaster http://www.unpcbs.com/  
webmaster http://www.ve7fmn.ca/ 


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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread David Guernsey via Elecraft
I started with (and still am using) a K3/10 (gets to 12 watts out) and have 
found it a lot of fun doing DX.  Once I get to my new QTH in a condo in Chicago 
and figure out what I can do as far as an antenna, I will put my K3/10 back on 
the air.  So that is a possible rig for a new ham.
 
73 de Dave KJ6CBS


On Monday, June 16, 2014 3:57 PM, K8JHR  wrote:
 


Excellent and well phrased question.
It succinctly expresses my own observations.

- K8JHR 




On 6/16/2014 5:53 PM, KC6CNN wrote:
> I have been training new hams to pass their test and get licensed.
> During one of the classes we looked at my rigs K3, KX3, K2, Drake TR-4.
> I was telling them how proud they would feel having built their own rigs and
> that the K2 was a good radio. It is hard to push the K2 to them when the
> price difference is so minimal between the K2 and the KX3. The KX3 also has
> so many more features that it is hard to get them to put that a side for the
> pride in making it themselves.
> What would you guys suggest?
> Features verses the pride in making it yourself. Price difference is
> minimal.

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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Phil Wheeler

KX3.  Building a K2 is not for everyone.

If they have built kits before, or have interest, 
then maybe the K2.  But the K1 might be a good 
starter. NOT the KX1 as a starter, though: It's 
very dense.


73, Phil W7OX

On 6/16/14, 2:53 PM, KC6CNN wrote:

I have been training new hams to pass their test and get licensed.
During one of the classes we looked at my rigs K3, KX3, K2, Drake TR-4.
I was telling them how proud they would feel having built their own rigs and
that the K2 was a good radio. It is hard to push the K2 to them when the
price difference is so minimal between the K2 and the KX3. The KX3 also has
so many more features that it is hard to get them to put that a side for the
pride in making it themselves.
What would you guys suggest?
Features verses the pride in making it yourself. Price difference is
minimal.
Thanks
Gerald - KC6CNN




-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K2 # 5486
K3 # 6254
KX3 # 757
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Which-way-to-steer-a-new-ham-K2-KX3-tp7590275.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
Don't get me wrong, I love my KX3 for the portability.  That's why I 
chose it over the K3.


It sounds like they have the budget for a full K-line -- that will get 
them on the air.


Get them excited about building antennas.

 or show them the cool kit options.  Simple stuff to start, maybe 
station accessories to whet their appetites.


Talk about some of the really cool tiny stuff that can talk half-way 
around the world.


Find out where their skills lie, and talk about homebrewing that way.  I 
don't do much with hardware, but I've done more than my share of 
homebrewing in software.


73 -- Lynn

On 6/16/2014 3:44 PM, Gerald Manthey wrote:

Then we all walked out to the parking lot and my Toyota truck was
surrounded by $50,000 trucks.


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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread K8JHR

Excellent and well phrased question.
It succinctly expresses my own observations.

- K8JHR 



On 6/16/2014 5:53 PM, KC6CNN wrote:

I have been training new hams to pass their test and get licensed.
During one of the classes we looked at my rigs K3, KX3, K2, Drake TR-4.
I was telling them how proud they would feel having built their own rigs and
that the K2 was a good radio. It is hard to push the K2 to them when the
price difference is so minimal between the K2 and the KX3. The KX3 also has
so many more features that it is hard to get them to put that a side for the
pride in making it themselves.
What would you guys suggest?
Features verses the pride in making it yourself. Price difference is
minimal.


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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Gerald Manthey
Yeah Don
That is what I was just thinking.
This group is a bunch of middle aged business owners who were feed with a
silver spoon. I brought up used equipment and was told they buy only the
best.
Then we all walked out to the parking lot and my Toyota truck was
surrounded by $50,000 trucks. Hihi.
Okay they got the money but was wanting to teach a more hands on ham.

We start antennas this week so hopefully they will want to make them. One
guy already had a company come out and install a 50 foot tower on his
farm/ranch.

Thanks
Gerald.
On Jun 16, 2014 5:34 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:

> Gerald,
>
> I believe the KX3 is the better general choice for new hams.  They can get
> it in kit form so they can have the pride of making it themselves, even
> though there is no soldering.
>
> For those who are experienced with soldering as well as properly following
> written instructions, and really want to solder their kit together from
> thru-hole components, the K2 is an excellent choice.
>
> Yes, the price difference is minimal and the extra features offered by the
> KX3 (data modes, FM, AM, dual receive, etc.) make it more flexible than the
> K2.
>
> If the new ham wants only a basic CW QRP transceiver, then the K2 price is
> much lower.
>
> The other point to be made is that the cost of expanding the K2 to a 100
> watt transceiver is less than a KX3 with the KXPA3 and KXAT3.
> For a 100 watt transceiver, the basic K3/100 and KX3 with KXPA100 are
> priced within the same ballpark, so you may want to add the K3 to your list
> of suggestions.
>
> New hams may not have resonant antennas, so an antenna tuner may be an
> asset.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/16/2014 5:53 PM, KC6CNN wrote:
>
>> I have been training new hams to pass their test and get licensed.
>> During one of the classes we looked at my rigs K3, KX3, K2, Drake TR-4.
>> I was telling them how proud they would feel having built their own rigs
>> and
>> that the K2 was a good radio. It is hard to push the K2 to them when the
>> price difference is so minimal between the K2 and the KX3. The KX3 also
>> has
>> so many more features that it is hard to get them to put that a side for
>> the
>> pride in making it themselves.
>> What would you guys suggest?
>> Features verses the pride in making it yourself. Price difference is
>> minimal.
>> Thanks
>> Gerald - KC6CNN
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] A product that would revolutionize ham radio

2014-06-16 Thread K8JHR

Interesting question... although,

I have all that now, with my portable tripod mounted antenna (it can be 
configured as either an OCF vertical dipole or as a vertical ground 
plane on several bands)  and my transceiver with internal ATU.


The only difference is my kit needs a transmission line - WHICH I WANT 
TO KEEP, because that enables me to operate away from the antenna, 
keeping RF off the rig, and out of my head.  Remember exposure to high 
levels of RF can be dangerous...  A transmission line allows me to 
operate from inside my camper, or tent, or under an awning outside the 
camper, but out of the sun, or within a park pavilion, while the antenna 
resides outside, a safe distance away.It also allows me to place the 
antenna away from the operating position, perhaps at the fringe of the 
forest, where it is less conspicuous, and gives substantial flexibility 
in setting up a temporary operating position.


My tripod mounted antenna can become either an OCF dipole or ground 
plane within a couple of minutes.  I can substitute that for a low 
dipole or end-fed half wave or some other design in the same time.


I would NOT want an all in one solution and I want the flexibility in 
mixing and matching different antennas with different radios, and would 
feel constrained if limited to one, built in radio/antenna product, 
where I could not mix and match rigs, antennas, and other components at 
will.


Neat idea... but it does not appeal to me.

Thanks for posting something interesting and off the usual trail - it is 
a good question, even if it does not appeal tome.  Maybe someone will 
make a mint on it!  I like business success stories!


Happy days, OM.

--  JHR 



On 6/16/2014 2:21 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:> I am presenting the idea 
below in the hope that some manufacturer will

> embrace it. No royalties will be demanded! :-)
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Gerald,

I believe the KX3 is the better general choice for new hams.  They can 
get it in kit form so they can have the pride of making it themselves, 
even though there is no soldering.


For those who are experienced with soldering as well as properly 
following written instructions, and really want to solder their kit 
together from thru-hole components, the K2 is an excellent choice.


Yes, the price difference is minimal and the extra features offered by 
the KX3 (data modes, FM, AM, dual receive, etc.) make it more flexible 
than the K2.


If the new ham wants only a basic CW QRP transceiver, then the K2 price 
is much lower.


The other point to be made is that the cost of expanding the K2 to a 100 
watt transceiver is less than a KX3 with the KXPA3 and KXAT3.
For a 100 watt transceiver, the basic K3/100 and KX3 with KXPA100 are 
priced within the same ballpark, so you may want to add the K3 to your 
list of suggestions.


New hams may not have resonant antennas, so an antenna tuner may be an 
asset.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/16/2014 5:53 PM, KC6CNN wrote:

I have been training new hams to pass their test and get licensed.
During one of the classes we looked at my rigs K3, KX3, K2, Drake TR-4.
I was telling them how proud they would feel having built their own rigs and
that the K2 was a good radio. It is hard to push the K2 to them when the
price difference is so minimal between the K2 and the KX3. The KX3 also has
so many more features that it is hard to get them to put that a side for the
pride in making it themselves.
What would you guys suggest?
Features verses the pride in making it yourself. Price difference is
minimal.
Thanks
Gerald - KC6CNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 mini observations

2014-06-16 Thread Augie "Gus" Hansen


On 6/16/2014 3:51 PM, Oliver Dröse wrote:

...
Display
The mini is used in tilted postion like the KX3. So I would have 
expected the same display like in the KX3 to be used, i.e. with a "6 
o'clock" viewing angle. Sorrily it's not, it has the original K3 
display ("12 o'clock") so you cannot see anything when the mini is on 
the table, it's not readable! That's a big big minus! :-( You have to 
put it almost vertical (difficult as it has it's center of gravity too 
high, so it easily tilts over the front then) which is impossible with 
the bail supplied/mounted, it's too short. :-(


According to the Elecraft product description,

Replacing the full-size K3/0 
, the 
K3/0-Mini consists of a K3 front panel, only, so it's highly portable. 
The K3/0-Mini is perfect for home and travel use due to its small 
size. It fully duplicates all K3 controls, displays and menus for a 
realistic remote K3 experience.


Given that it fully duplicates the menus, you should be able to go to 
the main menu, choose LCD ADJ, and set the display viewing angle over a 
wide range. For the K3 on a shelf, a value of 20 is good for eye-level 
viewing (straight on). Higher numbered values (up to 100) make viewing 
good with the rig tilted up, but I don't know if the range is wide 
enough to handle the unit laying flat. Worth a try.


Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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Re: [Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread Rick M0LEP
On Mon 16 Jun KC6CNN wrote:
> What would you guys suggest?

I know at least one person who's got a K2 kit still in its box even 
though he bought it years ago. I'd guess you don't want that happening.

How about getting them hooked on (or at least figuring out whether they 
get anything from) building their own rigs by having them to build 
something that's almost disposable (say a RockMite or something equally 
small and inexpensive) first? When that works you can raise the bar a 
bit...

-- 
... 73, Rick, M0LEP   (KX3 #3281)

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[Elecraft] Which way to steer a new ham K2-KX3

2014-06-16 Thread KC6CNN
I have been training new hams to pass their test and get licensed. 
During one of the classes we looked at my rigs K3, KX3, K2, Drake TR-4.
I was telling them how proud they would feel having built their own rigs and
that the K2 was a good radio. It is hard to push the K2 to them when the
price difference is so minimal between the K2 and the KX3. The KX3 also has
so many more features that it is hard to get them to put that a side for the
pride in making it themselves. 
What would you guys suggest?
Features verses the pride in making it yourself. Price difference is
minimal. 
Thanks
Gerald - KC6CNN




-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K2 # 5486
K3 # 6254
KX3 # 757
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Which-way-to-steer-a-new-ham-K2-KX3-tp7590275.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3/0 mini observations

2014-06-16 Thread Oliver Dröse


Hi,

having used the K3/0 mini for a few weeks now here are some 
observations, maybe they can be taken into account to make the product 
even better.


Display
The mini is used in tilted postion like the KX3. So I would have 
expected the same display like in the KX3 to be used, i.e. with a "6 
o'clock" viewing angle. Sorrily it's not, it has the original K3 display 
("12 o'clock") so you cannot see anything when the mini is on the table, 
it's not readable! That's a big big minus! :-( You have to put it almost 
vertical (difficult as it has it's center of gravity too high, so it 
easily tilts over the front then) which is impossible with the bail 
supplied/mounted, it's too short. :-(


Documentation
The manual gives a lot of hints concerning remote use itself but lacks 
completely concerning the hardware of the mini itself. :-( There is a 
3,5 mm jack on the back for PTT. Is it mono or stereo? Likewise for the 
headset connection, no info. I suppose it's stereo for mic as well as 
headset but would be good to have the info documented. Is there any bias 
on the 3,5 mm mic input? I suppose yes as when I connect sound from the 
computer to do digimodes it stops after 2 seconds, i.e. seems 
conflicting with the bias so putting the circuit down. So it must be 
isolated if used with hardware not expecting bias! Besides this it seems 
the headset connection is hard-wired against the mic socket and speaker 
meaning when-ever you plug in a mic into the 3,5 mm socket the 8pol 
round socket for the hand mic is automatically disabled, no software 
choice. Same for the headset socket, as soon as you plug in phones the 
internal speaker is switched off. Even configuring it through the menu 
(SPKR + PH = YES) just on the K3/0 mini itself (without a connection to 
the remote K3) does not change the behaviour. That's a pity as it would 
be good to still have "local" audio when a cable is plugged in, 
otherwise a little difficult to tune in RTTY stations. ;-)


There is a wiring diagram for the connection from the K3/0 mini to the 
RemoteRig boxes but no info on what signals are on which pins (yes, you 
can reverse-engineer it from the RR boxes). Also no info that you do not 
have to use an external power supply for the mini when used with the RR 
boxes, they obviously *do* supply the voltage through the backside 
connector to the mini (found out by "mistake", hi).


All the documentation issues are not that big a deal for somebody 
knowing how electronics work and can be guessed (as I did) but I am sure 
for other guys they might be a problem. And it's sure not what we are 
used to from Elecraft.


The display on the other hand *is* a big problem/design error. How are 
other guys using the mini? Cannot imagine nobody else has trouble with it?


That's it for the moment. Maybe additional findings in the future. 
Besides the things noted I really love the mini + remote K3, cannot 
imagine to go back to my old Icom remote station (with separated front 
panel, too). ;-)


73, Olli - DH8BQA

--

Contest, DX & radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de


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Re: [Elecraft] Questions regarding my new KX3.

2014-06-16 Thread Wayne Burdick
>> The KX3 doesn't have sufficient filtering for transmit at 472 kHz, nor much 
>> gain at this frequency in the PA. I would suggest using an external 
>> transverter for this band. For receive-only use, you could add a 500-kHz 
>> low-pass filter to eliminate any images due to local oscillator harmonics. 
> 
> RR, so usable only in receiving mode and with external filter but no luck for 
> TX without external transverter.

Correct.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Questions regarding my new KX3.

2014-06-16 Thread Jack.f6ajw
Sorry for too early sending of my previous message.  

I continue

Envoyé de mon iPhone

> Le 16 juin 2014 à 23:08, "Jack.f6ajw"  a écrit :
> 
> Thank you for your responses, Wayne ; comments on your text.
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPhone
> 
>> Le 16 juin 2014 à 20:37, Wayne Burdick  a écrit :
>> 
>> "Jack.f6ajw"  wrote:
>> 
>>> I have some questions regarding my new KX3 (I love it!).
>>> 
>>> 1) how could I use my KX3 on 472 kHz (new band freshly opened in France) in 
>>> transmit mode even at low power like on a TS-590?
>> 
>> The KX3 doesn't have sufficient filtering for transmit at 472 kHz, nor much 
>> gain at this frequency in the PA. I would suggest using an external 
>> transverter for this band. For receive-only use, you could add a 500-kHz 
>> low-pass filter to eliminate any images due to local oscillator harmonics.
> 
> RR, so usable only in receiving mode and with external filter but no luck for 
> TX without external transverter.
>> 
>> 
>>> 2) regarding the 2 meter option for KX3 (which will be available in 
>>> September, as far as I know), I would like to use it with DB6NT Microwave 
>>> transverters which could be controlled in TX mode thanks to a + TX voltage 
>>> of 5 to 12 V on the inner conductor of SMA antenna with a very low current 
>>> (to the base of a low-power switchîng transistor). My FT-817 was modified 
>>> this way on BNC output injecting +5V TX through a 4.7kR and a 1nF in order 
>>> to prevent DC to enter receiver.
>> 
>> Yes, the KX3-2M (and -4M) module will include a switchable DC voltage at the 
>> antenna.
> 
> Very good! 4m version will be interesting for Hams in some coutries in Europe 
> which have 4m allocation. Except IC-7000 and may be FT-847, no dedicated 4m 
> transceiver is available so congrats for that!
>> 
>> 
>>> 3) same question regarding BNC output as 28 or 50 MHz could be also used as 
>>> IF for 70 / 23 cm transverters .
>> 
>> Sorry, there's no provision for DC at the BNC output of the KX3.

May be available in the future?

73's

Jacques F6AJW/Paris
>> 
>> 73,
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Questions regarding my new KX3.

2014-06-16 Thread Jack.f6ajw
Thank you for your responses, Wayne ; comments on your text.

Envoyé de mon iPhone

> Le 16 juin 2014 à 20:37, Wayne Burdick  a écrit :
> 
> "Jack.f6ajw"  wrote:
> 
>> I have some questions regarding my new KX3 (I love it!).
>> 
>> 1) how could I use my KX3 on 472 kHz (new band freshly opened in France) in 
>> transmit mode even at low power like on a TS-590?
> 
> The KX3 doesn't have sufficient filtering for transmit at 472 kHz, nor much 
> gain at this frequency in the PA. I would suggest using an external 
> transverter for this band. For receive-only use, you could add a 500-kHz 
> low-pass filter to eliminate any images due to local oscillator harmonics. 

RR, so usable only in receiving mode and with external filter but no luck for 
TX without external transverter.
> 
> 
>> 2) regarding the 2 meter option for KX3 (which will be available in 
>> September, as far as I know), I would like to use it with DB6NT Microwave 
>> transverters which could be controlled in TX mode thanks to a + TX voltage 
>> of 5 to 12 V on the inner conductor of SMA antenna with a very low current 
>> (to the base of a low-power switchîng transistor). My FT-817 was modified 
>> this way on BNC output injecting +5V TX through a 4.7kR and a 1nF in order 
>> to prevent DC to enter receiver.
> 
> Yes, the KX3-2M (and -4M) module will include a switchable DC voltage at the 
> antenna. 

Very good! 4m version will be interesting for Hams in euro pin some cou tries 
which have 4m allocation. Except IC-7000 and may be FT-847, no dedicated 4m 
transceiver is available so congrats 
> 
> 
>> 3) same question regarding BNC output as 28 or 50 MHz could be also used as 
>> IF for 70 / 23 cm transverters .
> 
> Sorry, there's no provision for DC at the BNC output of the KX3.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PR6-10 Poser, Cont'd

2014-06-16 Thread Mike Harris
If you have the KAT3 installed remember to set DIGIOUT1 control line for 
each antenna port, 1 and 2.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO

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Re: [Elecraft] Questions regarding my new KX3.

2014-06-16 Thread Wayne Burdick
"Jack.f6ajw"  wrote:

> I have some questions regarding my new KX3 (I love it!).
> 
> 1) how could I use my KX3 on 472 kHz (new band freshly opened in France) in 
> transmit mode even at low power like on a TS-590?

The KX3 doesn't have sufficient filtering for transmit at 472 kHz, nor much 
gain at this frequency in the PA. I would suggest using an external transverter 
for this band. For receive-only use, you could add a 500-kHz low-pass filter to 
eliminate any images due to local oscillator harmonics. 


> 2) regarding the 2 meter option for KX3 (which will be available in 
> September, as far as I know), I would like to use it with DB6NT Microwave 
> transverters which could be controlled in TX mode thanks to a + TX voltage of 
> 5 to 12 V on the inner conductor of SMA antenna with a very low current (to 
> the base of a low-power switchîng transistor). My FT-817 was modified this 
> way on BNC output injecting +5V TX through a 4.7kR and a 1nF in order to 
> prevent DC to enter receiver.

Yes, the KX3-2M (and -4M) module will include a switchable DC voltage at the 
antenna. 


> 3) same question regarding BNC output as 28 or 50 MHz could be also used as 
> IF for 70 / 23 cm transverters .

Sorry, there's no provision for DC at the BNC output of the KX3.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] A product that would revolutionize ham radio

2014-06-16 Thread Vic Rosenthal
I am presenting the idea below in the hope that some manufacturer will 
embrace it. No royalties will be demanded! :-)


One of the biggest problems facing today's hams contemplating HF 
operation is the prohibition of antennas by HOA's, etc. One way of 
dealing with this is a with temporary antenna that can be set up only 
when operating. But there are lots of compromises -- in efficiency, 
flexibility, wasted time -- that this entails.


Many hams also would like to operate from temporary locations -- 
mountaintops, building roofs, beaches, campsites, cruise ships, 
rowboats, etc. There are many approaches to this, but they generally 
require setup of several station components which may or may not be 
practical, and which takes time that might not be available.


I propose a device that I call a Universal Amateur Station (UAS) that 
will make it possible to operate an /effective/ station in the greatest 
possible number of environments with an absolute minimum amount of setup.


Picture a folding tripod with a vertical whip on top and a box at the 
point where the legs meet the vertical part. The tripod will comprise an 
off-center fed vertical antenna, with the legs working against the 
vertical part.  The box will contain a transceiver capable of QRP to 100 
watts output, internal batteries for 5-watt operation, an automatic 
antenna matching device, and a wireless link controller.


I am thinking of a package the size of an airline-approved carry-on. It 
should be practical with some ingenuity to make such a thing with an 
antenna that can extend to about 17 feet (5m), but it should also be 
possible to use in smaller configurations if space isn't available. It 
should be easier to set up than the usual tent.


There will also be a control head which will contain a built-in paddle 
and microphone.


The HOA-oppressed ham can simply unfold the unit in his backyard, on an 
accessible roof, etc. and sit in any comfortable location within range 
and operate.


In a hotel? Unfold it on your balcony. Driving around and see a nice 
spot? Place it on the roof of the vehicle and connect it to the battery 
for a full 100 watts. Camping? Set it up outside your tent or on a 
nearby hill. A small notebook computer would be the only accessory 
needed for an instant FD station or DXpedition. Of course you would not 
need it for casual operation. The possible uses in an emergency can 
easily be imagined.


If you have seen the mechanical ingenuity demonstrated by the makers of 
camping and hiking gear, you can see that it is possible to make 
something like this remarkably small and light.


Why is this better than, for example, a KX3 and Buddipole? For one 
thing, there is no feedline or fiddling with the antenna necessary. The 
integrated transmitter/tuner/antenna is more efficient. The lack of a 
feedline makes it possible to place it on the roof of a building that 
you don't own and operate from inside.


--
Vic
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Re: [Elecraft] Extra TMP cable

2014-06-16 Thread Eric Ross
I assume you also have the KAT3.  The sub-rx can either be hooked up to
the KAT3 or the AUX RF(bnc) connector, but not both.  When done, there
is a TMP cable that is connected to the KAT3 or AUX RF and one of the
two is not connected to the sub-rx.  You might have missed the step
where you attached that "extra" cable to its chassis connector.  See
Fig. 4 on page 43 in the owners manual.  Unless you plan to have a
receive-only antenna, the dotted line is normally not attached to your
sub-rx.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Mon, Jun 16, 2014, at 11:11 AM, N1IX wrote:
> I just completed assembling a K3 with the sub-receiver option. 
> 
> I have an extra 12" TMP cable and I can't figure out where it goes. 
> 
> The K3 and sub-rx seem to work correctly.
> 
>  
> 
> Dave N1IX
> 
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-- 
  Eric Ross
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[Elecraft] Extra TMP cable

2014-06-16 Thread N1IX
I just completed assembling a K3 with the sub-receiver option. 

I have an extra 12" TMP cable and I can't figure out where it goes. 

The K3 and sub-rx seem to work correctly.

 

Dave N1IX

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Re: [Elecraft] PR6-10 Poser, Cont'd

2014-06-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ed,

You may have too many variables to determine what is causing the problem.
Try a few things first to isolate where it is failing.
First connect a BNC jumper between RX ANT OUT and RX ANT IN.
Does the K3 hear a signal at the same strength with RX ANT set on as it 
does with it set off?  It should.  If not, there is a problem with the 
K3 RX ANT, contact support.


Then connect the PR6-10 to the RX ANT jacks on the K3 and connect it for 
power at all times (no selection from pin 11 - install jumper P2 in 
PR6-10) - when you select RX ANT, the signal strength should increase.  
If it does not, you may have a faulty PR6-10, contact support.


Lastly, remove jumper P2 from the PR6-10 and connect using ACC pin 11 - 
connect only the PR6-10 to the ACC connector.  Does it work as 
expected?  If not, check the menu settings for DIGIOUT1.  Should the 
menu settings be correct and it still does not work, measure the voltage 
on the white wire with the preamp selected and not selected.  It should 
be zero when selected and greater than 3 volts when the preamp is not 
selected.


If all the above work as expected, start putting the rest of the cabling 
in place - one cable at a time.  Stop if the preamp stops working 
because you just installed the cable that makes it fail.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/16/2014 1:03 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Thanks Mike, Fred, and others . . .

I will try the pin 11 mod though I fear that's not the problem, for three
reasons.


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[Elecraft] Questions regarding my new KX3.

2014-06-16 Thread Jack.f6ajw

HI All Elecraft users!

I have some questions regarding my new KX3 (I love it!).

1) how could I use my KX3 on 472 kHz (new band freshly opened in France) in 
transmit mode even at low power like on a TS-590?

2) regarding the 2 meter option for KX3 (which will be available in September, 
as far as I know), I would like to use it with DB6NT Microwave transverters 
which could be controlled in TX mode thanks to a + TX voltage of 5 to 12 V on 
the inner conductor of SMA antenna with a very low current (to the base of a 
low-power switchîng transistor). My FT-817 was modified this way on BNC output 
injecting +5V TX through a 4.7kR and a 1nF in order to prevent DC to enter 
receiver.

3) same question regarding BNC output as 28 or 50 MHz could be also used as IF 
for 70 / 23 cm transverters .

Sorry if  these questions have been already aśked on this reflector as I am 
newly on it.

Thanks in anticipation for your responses.

Jacques F6AJW/ Paris


Envoyé de mon iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] PR6-10 Poser, Cont'd

2014-06-16 Thread W0MU
Have you tried it in manual mode where power is applied at all times so 
you know the pre amp is working as expected?




On 6/16/2014 11:03 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Thanks Mike, Fred, and others . . .

I will try the pin 11 mod though I fear that's not the problem, for three
reasons.  Fred points out that pin 11 would keep the preamp on rather than
off; second, having used a KAT (and a KPA) with the K3 since the KAT first
came out, I've worked through the cabling business and had it all solved
so far as the KAT is concerned.  And most convincing, one of my attempts
was done with the K3 a cappella, so to speak -- I disconnected everything
except the power supply and the antenna and the PR6-10, connecting only
the unique 15-pin cable that was supplied with the PR6-10-- with the same
result.

Fred's book (2d Ed.) shows the block diagram of the PR6 (same as the 6-10,
I assume) and the KVX3, but the examples use a separate antenna in ANT 2
for the preamped band.  I have but one coax line coming into the shack for
every band -- the antenna switch is remote, out where the antennas are.
(Reduces the number of holes you have to drill in the house.)  That feed
line is in the K3 at ANT 1, and ANT 1 is selected.  The plan was to keep
just one feed line and select  the preamp in for ten meters and out for
everything else.

Am I trying to do something that's not possible?  Nothing I've seen in the
Elecraft papers says anything about not using ANT 1 for everything
including what the preamp is supposed to be preamping . . .

Any further ideas?

Tnx!

Ted, KN1CBR



Hi Ted,

If you are using a KPA500 and a PR6 you will have to remove pin 11 from
the
cable that goes to the KPA500. It has popped up on this reflector once or
twice but it is not mentioned in either the PR6 or the KPA500
instructions.
If you wonder if this will work just pull the 15 pin cable off of the
KPA500
and you'll see that the PR6 works as you would expect it to work.

73,
Mike K2MK


Dauer, Edward wrote

I need to ask for help configuring a PR6-10 on the K3.  Installed OK,
removed the internal jumper per instructions and am using the control
line
on a Y splitter to allow the KPA and KAT to connect to the K3 as well.
Physically, all seems fine, and the K3, P3, KPA and KAT work just as
they
always did.

Then to operate the pre-amp I configured digout1 to ?on? for 28 Mhz on
the
K3, per instructions.  OK so far.
  


The PR6-10 manual says ?Tap RX ANT to enable preamplifier.?  When I do
so
the noise level goes way down and the signals disappear, as if there
were
no antenna connected to the receiver.   Removing the power plug from the
preamp made no difference in either mode ? RX ANT on or off.
  


I recall when building the K3 that there were elections to be made about
antenna configurations when installing the sub receiver and/or
the KXV3.  I also remember that there are a myriad of ways the antennas
can be routed via the configuration menus.  I have a feeling that the
elections and internal configurations I originally made in the K3 are
not
compatible with getting the PR6-10 to work simply by pressing RX ANT,
but
I can?t reason my way through it all.


Ted, KN1CBR





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[Elecraft] Cases for sale

2014-06-16 Thread Greg
While cleaning the garage I found these that may be of interest here.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00281H304/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$40



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EPMTT4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$50

Both are like new...

73
Greg
AB7R
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Re: [Elecraft] PR6-10 Poser, Cont'd

2014-06-16 Thread Eric Ross
I just hooked mine up this weekend.  I was using Ant2, but I don't see
that being a significant difference.  Initially, I was seeing the same
symptom but it went away. I am thinking that a power cycle might have
enabled something, but I am only guessing.  I was doing some contesting
on 6M(local) this weekend and it worked like a champ.  I also have the
sub, and it was also on Ant2 at the time.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Mon, Jun 16, 2014, at 10:03 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> Thanks Mike, Fred, and others . . .
> 
> I will try the pin 11 mod though I fear that's not the problem, for three
> reasons.  Fred points out that pin 11 would keep the preamp on rather
> than
> off; second, having used a KAT (and a KPA) with the K3 since the KAT
> first
> came out, I've worked through the cabling business and had it all solved
> so far as the KAT is concerned.  And most convincing, one of my attempts
> was done with the K3 a cappella, so to speak -- I disconnected everything
> except the power supply and the antenna and the PR6-10, connecting only
> the unique 15-pin cable that was supplied with the PR6-10-- with the same
> result.
> 
> Fred's book (2d Ed.) shows the block diagram of the PR6 (same as the
> 6-10,
> I assume) and the KVX3, but the examples use a separate antenna in ANT 2
> for the preamped band.  I have but one coax line coming into the shack
> for
> every band -- the antenna switch is remote, out where the antennas are.
> (Reduces the number of holes you have to drill in the house.)  That feed
> line is in the K3 at ANT 1, and ANT 1 is selected.  The plan was to keep
> just one feed line and select  the preamp in for ten meters and out for
> everything else.  
> 
> Am I trying to do something that's not possible?  Nothing I've seen in
> the
> Elecraft papers says anything about not using ANT 1 for everything
> including what the preamp is supposed to be preamping . . .
> 
> Any further ideas?
> 
> Tnx!
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> >Hi Ted,
> >
> >If you are using a KPA500 and a PR6 you will have to remove pin 11 from
> >the
> >cable that goes to the KPA500. It has popped up on this reflector once or
> >twice but it is not mentioned in either the PR6 or the KPA500
> >instructions.
> >If you wonder if this will work just pull the 15 pin cable off of the
> >KPA500
> >and you'll see that the PR6 works as you would expect it to work.
> >
> >73,
> >Mike K2MK
> >
> >
> >Dauer, Edward wrote
> >> I need to ask for help configuring a PR6-10 on the K3.  Installed OK,
> >> removed the internal jumper per instructions and am using the control
> >>line
> >> on a Y splitter to allow the KPA and KAT to connect to the K3 as well.
> >> Physically, all seems fine, and the K3, P3, KPA and KAT work just as
> >>they
> >> always did.
> >> 
> >> Then to operate the pre-amp I configured digout1 to ?on? for 28 Mhz on
> >>the
> >> K3, per instructions.  OK so far.
> >>  
> >> 
> >> The PR6-10 manual says ?Tap RX ANT to enable preamplifier.?  When I do
> >>so
> >> the noise level goes way down and the signals disappear, as if there
> >>were
> >> no antenna connected to the receiver.   Removing the power plug from the
> >> preamp made no difference in either mode ? RX ANT on or off.
> >>  
> >> 
> >> I recall when building the K3 that there were elections to be made about
> >> antenna configurations when installing the sub receiver and/or
> >> the KXV3.  I also remember that there are a myriad of ways the antennas
> >> can be routed via the configuration menus.  I have a feeling that the
> >> elections and internal configurations I originally made in the K3 are
> >>not
> >> compatible with getting the PR6-10 to work simply by pressing RX ANT,
> >>but
> >> I can?t reason my way through it all.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Ted, KN1CBR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> 
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[Elecraft] PR6-10 Poser, Cont'd

2014-06-16 Thread Dauer, Edward
Thanks Mike, Fred, and others . . .

I will try the pin 11 mod though I fear that's not the problem, for three
reasons.  Fred points out that pin 11 would keep the preamp on rather than
off; second, having used a KAT (and a KPA) with the K3 since the KAT first
came out, I've worked through the cabling business and had it all solved
so far as the KAT is concerned.  And most convincing, one of my attempts
was done with the K3 a cappella, so to speak -- I disconnected everything
except the power supply and the antenna and the PR6-10, connecting only
the unique 15-pin cable that was supplied with the PR6-10-- with the same
result.

Fred's book (2d Ed.) shows the block diagram of the PR6 (same as the 6-10,
I assume) and the KVX3, but the examples use a separate antenna in ANT 2
for the preamped band.  I have but one coax line coming into the shack for
every band -- the antenna switch is remote, out where the antennas are.
(Reduces the number of holes you have to drill in the house.)  That feed
line is in the K3 at ANT 1, and ANT 1 is selected.  The plan was to keep
just one feed line and select  the preamp in for ten meters and out for
everything else.  

Am I trying to do something that's not possible?  Nothing I've seen in the
Elecraft papers says anything about not using ANT 1 for everything
including what the preamp is supposed to be preamping . . .

Any further ideas?

Tnx!

Ted, KN1CBR


>Hi Ted,
>
>If you are using a KPA500 and a PR6 you will have to remove pin 11 from
>the
>cable that goes to the KPA500. It has popped up on this reflector once or
>twice but it is not mentioned in either the PR6 or the KPA500
>instructions.
>If you wonder if this will work just pull the 15 pin cable off of the
>KPA500
>and you'll see that the PR6 works as you would expect it to work.
>
>73,
>Mike K2MK
>
>
>Dauer, Edward wrote
>> I need to ask for help configuring a PR6-10 on the K3.  Installed OK,
>> removed the internal jumper per instructions and am using the control
>>line
>> on a Y splitter to allow the KPA and KAT to connect to the K3 as well.
>> Physically, all seems fine, and the K3, P3, KPA and KAT work just as
>>they
>> always did.
>> 
>> Then to operate the pre-amp I configured digout1 to ?on? for 28 Mhz on
>>the
>> K3, per instructions.  OK so far.
>>  
>> 
>> The PR6-10 manual says ?Tap RX ANT to enable preamplifier.?  When I do
>>so
>> the noise level goes way down and the signals disappear, as if there
>>were
>> no antenna connected to the receiver.   Removing the power plug from the
>> preamp made no difference in either mode ? RX ANT on or off.
>>  
>> 
>> I recall when building the K3 that there were elections to be made about
>> antenna configurations when installing the sub receiver and/or
>> the KXV3.  I also remember that there are a myriad of ways the antennas
>> can be routed via the configuration menus.  I have a feeling that the
>> elections and internal configurations I originally made in the K3 are
>>not
>> compatible with getting the PR6-10 to work simply by pressing RX ANT,
>>but
>> I can?t reason my way through it all.
>> 
>> 
>> Ted, KN1CBR
>
>
>
>
>
>--

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[Elecraft] KX3 For Sale

2014-06-16 Thread n8ag
I have a KX3 in excellent condition with many of the options for sale. Please 
contact me off of this list at n...@comcast.net or see ad # 1137096 on QTH.com 

Tnx es 73, 
Dave N8AG 
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