Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Qusestion [Thread CLOSED]

2015-07-07 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Yup, its certainly is a valuable thread, but once the volume gets too high, we 
ask that further discussion be taken off list as we have thousands of readers 
and not all are able to handle excessive email on topics they are not interested 
in.


Also note that this type of discussion is a repeating topic over the years and 
can be easily found and read in the searchable Elecraft archives at Nabble. ( 
See http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html )


73
Eric
/elecraft.com/
Moderator etc.

On 7/7/2015 7:09 AM, WA8JXM wrote:
I definitely agree with Chris that this has been a very good thread and in 
fact, I marked and saved the message prior to Eric closing the thread because 
of the useful long term information in it.


It may be time to close it, but it was a good and valuable thread through the 
last message IMO.


73,
Ken WA8JXM


On 07/07/2015 09:18, Chris Hallinan wrote:

Argh.  This was a very interesting and pertinent thread, and I learned a
lot from it.  Those that aren't interested should learn to use the delete
key. :(

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 7:26 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
e...@elecraft.com wrote:


Guys,

Time to close this thread in the interest of reducing overload for others
due to the huge number of posts. This One is -way- over the normal list
limit.



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Re: [Elecraft] Windows 8.1 tablet power

2015-07-07 Thread Jack Brindle
You should be looking for a USB-C docking adapter. It supplies power for 
charging and extends the USB for devices to connect.
They are relatively new - there aren’t that many USB-C systems out so far, so 
you should expect them to be somewhat expensive.
But, the adapters are available. I know that Apple sells one for their MacBook, 
which uses USB-C. Might be a good starting point,
but keep looking to find what you really want.

A standard USB hub will not provide what you need...

73,

Jack, W6FB

 On Jul 7, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Mark N2QT via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 wrote:
 
 Actually the issue is the tablet is able to supply power to external devices, 
 which must be
 disabled when the unit is being charged from an external source.  Best I can 
 tell in some
 devices The direction of power is either negotiated by a digital message upon 
 connection 
 of an external device or by shorting or opening the data lines when the unit 
 is to be 
 charged.  It looks like Dell tablets can operate with specific adapters but 
 there is no 
 guarantee this would work on another brand (and lots of review comments 
 saying it doesn't).
 
 This was all a surprise to me, I just figured I could hook things up and go. 
 
 Mark. N2QT
 
 On Jul 7, 2015, at 11:50 AM, Tom tom...@videotron.ca wrote:
 
 Hmm, that's interesting. Have you tried a powered USB hub? I would think 
 that should work. 
 73 Tom 
 va2fsq.com
 
 Sent from BlueMail
 
 On Jul 7, 2015, at 10:57 AM, Mark N2QT via Elecraft 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:
 I bought a win 8.1 (not RT) tablet from Cowboom for $59, hoping to 
 interface it using its
 micro USB port.  However the USB port is the only way to provide power to 
 the thing,
 and battery life is such I'd like to leave it on charge while operating, 
 while not losing the
 USB port data functionality. 
 
 The unit is sold by Best Buy under the Unbranded name. 
 
 Anyone have luck powering such a tablet without losing the USB data 
 capability?  
 
 Mark. N2QT
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Windows 8.1 tablet power

2015-07-07 Thread Tom
Hmm, that's interesting. Have you tried a powered USB hub? I would think that 
should work. 
73 Tom 
va2fsq.com 

Sent from BlueMail



On Jul 7, 2015, 10:57 AM, at 10:57 AM, Mark N2QT via Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:
I bought a win 8.1 (not RT) tablet from Cowboom for $59, hoping to
interface it using its
micro USB port.  However the USB port is the only way to provide power
to the thing,
and battery life is such I'd like to leave it on charge while
operating, while not losing the
USB port data functionality. 

The unit is sold by Best Buy under the Unbranded name. 

Anyone have luck powering such a tablet without losing the USB data
capability?  

Mark. N2QT
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[Elecraft] Lost your list Password? - Here's how to get it.

2015-07-07 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
If you have misplaced your elecraft list password, or if you never received it, 
here is how to get it sent to you again.


Go to: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

and scroll to the bottom of the page. Enter your email address (the one you used 
for the list) and click on 'Edit Options'. This takes you to your personal list 
options page. One of the buttons on that page is labeled 'Email my password to me'.


Once you have your password, go to the above link and enter it to change your
subscription parameters (digest mode, unsub etc.)

73, Eric  WA6HHQ


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Re: [Elecraft] Windows 8.1 tablet power

2015-07-07 Thread Tom
Hi Warren, 
Another option would be either a Bluetooth or WiFi to serial port adapter. That 
way you could connect wirelessly  to the elecraft and still power your tablet. 
Tom
va2fsq.com 

Sent from BlueMail



On Jul 7, 2015, 12:31 PM, at 12:31 PM, Warren Merkel hullspee...@gmail.com 
wrote:
Mark,

I would think the powered USB hub could work as it would provide power
to devices downstream of the hub.  They are not to be confused with a
passive USB hub, which only passes on the power available from the
tablet's USB port.

Powered hubs are easy to identify as they are usually provided with a
wall-wart power supply.  I use one to relieve the power duties to
devices connected to Raspberry Pi boards.

A few catches here: One is the wall-wart is usually a switching supply
which may cause harmful hash on it's own.  You could replace it with an
older linear regulator wall-wart in that case.

The other is you might have to split out the power lines from the data
lines and craft up a Y cable to allow you to provide 5V power to the
tablet, and also bring out the two data lines to a cable going to the
active USB hub.

I'm not sure this will even work as (you are correct in that) sometimes
the data lines are shorted together in USB Power Charger devices, and
that is used by the connected device, to detect that the port is to be
configured to accept a charging current as opposed to data mode  If
you can find a way to test that the tablet will charge with a wall-wort
that only has two pins connected, you should be in good shape to make
the Y cable.

In the case of the Raspberry Pi, I have had luck with some powered hubs
being able to back feed 5V on the USB data connection and actually
power
the Pi via it's USB dataport.   This also may work for your tablet if
luck is with you :)

Looks like a bit of breadboarding is in your future Mark.

Warren, KD4Z


On 7/7/2015 11:57 AM, Mark N2QT via Elecraft wrote:
 Actually the issue is the tablet is able to supply power to external
devices, which must be
 disabled when the unit is being charged from an external source. 
Best I can tell in some
 devices The direction of power is either negotiated by a digital
message upon connection 
 of an external device or by shorting or opening the data lines when
the unit is to be 
 charged.  It looks like Dell tablets can operate with specific
adapters but there is no 
 guarantee this would work on another brand (and lots of review
comments saying it doesn't).
 
 This was all a surprise to me, I just figured I could hook things up
and go. 
 
 Mark. N2QT
 

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[Elecraft] Crikey! Please edit replies down to a minimum size and delete extra footers

2015-07-07 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
When replying to emails on the list, please remember to edit down the copied 
text to the minimum needed to retain context. One or two sentences from the 
original post are usually sufficient. This keeps the list and archive volume 
down and makes everything much more readable.


*** Don't forget to delete the list footer message too or you will have
multiple copies of it in your reply.

A large part of our readers get the list in daily digest mode. When large 
amounts of previous posts are copied over and over it makes the digest very 
large and virtually unreadable. Also, many of our readers outside the U.S. pay 
for email by the kB and are using slower modems. Brevity in your posts helps a 
lot there. :-)


73 from your friendly Elecraft list manager
Eric
Elecraft.com







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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Qusestion [Thread CLOSED]

2015-07-07 Thread Bill
Searching is great - as are new posts and new information. The large 
number of posts indicated the amount of interest in the subject matter. 
So much can be done with the K3/K3S's audio, so many varied mics out 
there, and so many different user comments. So much to learn - I have 
only been at the Elecraft game for three years.


Too bad to cut this one off.

Bill W2BLC K-Line


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[Elecraft] Elecraft email List Official Guidelines 2015 - Updated

2015-07-07 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

Elecraft eMail LIST GUIDELINES 2015

For those of you who are new to the list, (and for those of us who have rapidly 
failing memories) here is a quick list of things to remember when posting to 
this list. Please save this for future reference.


The most important thing to remember is that this is a hobby - Let's have fun!

The PRIMARY purposes of this list are to provide a polite and enjoyable forum 
for discussing Elecraft products, share mods, new ideas, feedback to Elecraft, 
share experiences using our products, troubleshooting ideas etc.


The Elecraft email list server (reflector) is provided to further the discussion 
of Elecraft products and related items. It serves as a forum for the discussion 
of both technical and operating topics including product features, construction 
and debug problems, sharing your enthusiasm and impressions from using our 
products and more general ham radio related topics of interest to our customers.


(Please -strongly- resist the urge to reply to an OT topic once it has gone to 5 
posts. Once it hits ten posts do not reply at all (go off list if you feel the 
urge to continue.) Also, please do not try to always get the 'last word'..



1. YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED to the [Elecraft] list TO POST to it. (This is done to 
stop advertising spammers from hitting the list.) Any postings sent to 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net by addresses different from the exact ones it shows as 
subscribers will be rejected.


This includes alias (forwarded) addresses like w1...@arrl.net. If you use an 
alias to subscribe you must have it as your from: and return address too. 
Subscribing with w...@arrl.net from your physical address of j...@aol.com will 
allow you to receive postings, but your postings to
the list will be rejected if their from: and reply to: address does not match 
your subscribe address..


Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft to subscribe and to 
change your list preferences. To unsubscribe or to change your list preferences 
(digest, no mail on/off etc.), scroll to the bottom of the page and log in with 
your subscribed email address and the password that was sent to you by email 
when you subscribed (and sent to you each month).



2. If you want to provide an attachment, .JPG picture or other large file for 
use on the list, first post it to your personal web page and then post a link to 
its address in an email to the list. The list strips all attachments to prevent 
viruses from propagating and to keep the archives at a reasonable size.



3. Top posting is the official standard for this list, and its especially
important for those of us who also read our email on smartphones, iPads etc. 
Scrolling though a long thread before getting to the reply text is difficult on 
these devices and costs everyone a lot of time.


Reading the response first, at the top, is a huge time saver, especially when 
you have to read hundreds of emails daily as we do here. We really appreciate 
your adherence to this.


Please also delete -all- footers and as much of the prior email text as possible 
when replying to cut down on overall email size. Please keep the amount of 
copied text from previous posts to an -ABSOLUTE MINIMUM- in your replies.



4. EMAIL OVERLOAD:
If you are overloaded by the volume of individual messages on the list, You can 
view the daily Elecraft list messages for each month in web format at: 
http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html . These archives are updated hourly and list 
postings by subject. (the Nabble archive looks very useful.) Just click on the 
ones you are interested in to read.


You can also set your Elecraft list email preferences to 'no mail' delivery, 
which still allows you to post to the list when reading via the digest.


You can also change your subscription to the DIGEST version, which sends you a 
single compilation each day.


To change your email list options or to subscribe / unsubscribe, go to:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Scroll to the bottom of the 
page to log into your preferences page and set your mail options to 'no mail'.



4a. Please make an effort to keep list volume under control by resisting the 
urge to post a comment on every long discussion thread (CW, Soldering etc.) With 
thousands of list subscribers volume can quickly get out of control if everyone 
feels the need to comment. While we do not overly restrict the subject matter on 
this list, please remember that its primary focus is on Elecraft products, and 
their use. Many people rely on it for pointers on building, using and 
troubleshooting their rigs. Other ham Radio topics are OK, but please keep the 
posts on non-Elecraft topics under control.


4b. *** When emailing about a specific rig or option, please add the rig/option 
name(s) to the first part of your email subject line. (K1, K2, K3, KX1 etc.) 
This will be a huge help for those experiencing email overload and will allow 
automatic filtering based on subject line.



[Elecraft] FS: 10w 6m amplifiers

2015-07-07 Thread Edward R Cole
I recently became aware of a source of quite a few Yaesu FL6020 
linear amps.  I have three that all look in new condition.  This 
coming out of an estate of a recently sk ham up here.  All three 
tested with up 15w saturated output with about 1.5w drive.  Nominal 
1w provides 10w which is advisable for modes like FM or digital, and 
for SSB to avoid overdriving.


I was able to get a manual and schematic for the amp to ID the three 
spring-loaded contacts.  Two are associated with ALC and one is the 
TR ckt which takes +13.5v.  These amps were a clamp-on option to the 
Yaesu FT690R (2.5w) that was produced in the 1980's.


I'm using one to provide full drive for my 150w 6m Mirage amp (needs 
10.5w).  Both my K3/10 and KX3 only provide 8w on 6m which drives my 
Mirage to a tad over 100w (tad = 1-2w).  I left the ALC terminals unconnected.


I am selling the amps (tested) for $10 plus shipping which is about 
$10 via priority mail (to USA).  I have one at the moment but more 
available in Anchorage (which I would have to have shipped down to 
me).  I'm waiting on that until I see if there is any interest for them.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Windows 8.1 tablet power

2015-07-07 Thread Warren Merkel
Mark,

I would think the powered USB hub could work as it would provide power
to devices downstream of the hub.  They are not to be confused with a
passive USB hub, which only passes on the power available from the
tablet's USB port.

Powered hubs are easy to identify as they are usually provided with a
wall-wart power supply.  I use one to relieve the power duties to
devices connected to Raspberry Pi boards.

A few catches here: One is the wall-wart is usually a switching supply
which may cause harmful hash on it's own.  You could replace it with an
older linear regulator wall-wart in that case.

The other is you might have to split out the power lines from the data
lines and craft up a Y cable to allow you to provide 5V power to the
tablet, and also bring out the two data lines to a cable going to the
active USB hub.

I'm not sure this will even work as (you are correct in that) sometimes
the data lines are shorted together in USB Power Charger devices, and
that is used by the connected device, to detect that the port is to be
configured to accept a charging current as opposed to data mode  If
you can find a way to test that the tablet will charge with a wall-wort
that only has two pins connected, you should be in good shape to make
the Y cable.

In the case of the Raspberry Pi, I have had luck with some powered hubs
being able to back feed 5V on the USB data connection and actually power
the Pi via it's USB dataport.   This also may work for your tablet if
luck is with you :)

Looks like a bit of breadboarding is in your future Mark.

Warren, KD4Z


On 7/7/2015 11:57 AM, Mark N2QT via Elecraft wrote:
 Actually the issue is the tablet is able to supply power to external devices, 
 which must be
 disabled when the unit is being charged from an external source.  Best I can 
 tell in some
 devices The direction of power is either negotiated by a digital message upon 
 connection 
 of an external device or by shorting or opening the data lines when the unit 
 is to be 
 charged.  It looks like Dell tablets can operate with specific adapters but 
 there is no 
 guarantee this would work on another brand (and lots of review comments 
 saying it doesn't).
 
 This was all a surprise to me, I just figured I could hook things up and go. 
 
 Mark. N2QT
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

2015-07-07 Thread Jim Miller
put a small bump of solder on one end of the existing cap. pick up the new
cap with a toothpick that has been coated with a bit of beeswax from the
sewing store.

by just touching the toothpick to the top of the new cap it should adhere
and allow you to gently place it on the existing device. heat the end with
the solder blob to tack the new cap in place. solder the other end. reheat
the first end briefly if necessary to make a nice joint.

73

jim ab3cv

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 2:56 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might
 be my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass
 that I can find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of
 the existing caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every
 small tweezers I can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army
 knife, no luck.  Any suggestions on how to keep them there would be
 appreciated.  Thank you  73
 Emory  WM3M
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

2015-07-07 Thread Jim Miller
also don't try to keep you hands in position without support. always
support your hands by your forearms on the edge of the worksurface or
better yet with your wrists on something like bean bags closer to the work.
stability rulz!

73

jim ab3cv

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com wrote:

 put a small bump of solder on one end of the existing cap. pick up the new
 cap with a toothpick that has been coated with a bit of beeswax from the
 sewing store.

 by just touching the toothpick to the top of the new cap it should adhere
 and allow you to gently place it on the existing device. heat the end with
 the solder blob to tack the new cap in place. solder the other end. reheat
 the first end briefly if necessary to make a nice joint.

 73

 jim ab3cv

 On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 2:56 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might
 be my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass
 that I can find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of
 the existing caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every
 small tweezers I can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army
 knife, no luck.  Any suggestions on how to keep them there would be
 appreciated.  Thank you  73
 Emory  WM3M
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 135, Issue 8

2015-07-07 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Just a gentle reminder: the vast majority of issues are not in the Elecraft
equipment.  Great gobs of personal time and frustration are saved by
looking FIRST to the mechanical, then third-party adjunct programs, then to
the manual (I know, I know, everyone HATES to read the manual).

If you are new to Elecraft equipment, then the order is FIRST to the
manual, then to the mechanical, then  to third-party adjunct programs. Get
a PDF copy of the manual, so you can use the search facities of the FREE
Adobe Reader to find stuff quickly in the manual. Suffer with the manual
for a few months. Ignore the headaches, PTSD, bleeding from the ears, and
mental illness issues reading the manual may cause. They are temporary and
will go away in a few years.

If you think about it, the K3 firmware has been undergoing continuous high
stress field testing and bug-fixing since 2008. Should one really
reasonably expect the K3 firmware to be sloppy at this point?

Good luck on all your issues, and may you please figure them out quicker
than I do  :)

73, Guy K2AV.

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 3:35 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:


 Are you running the K3 by itself or connected to a computer?
 If computer connected, what logging software is running?

 With no computer connected, my K3 FW 5.29 retains the last used
 data submode on each band across power cycles.  With a computer
 connected, the logging program selects the data sub-mode at
 start-up based on its digital interface settings.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV


 On 2015-07-07 11:09 AM, Greg wrote:

 I have the opposite problem...using version 5.29.  My data mode reverts to
 AFSK A after mode change and turning radio off and back on.  I want it to
 remain on FSK D for all bands.  Am I doing something wrong?  73, Greg-N4CC


 Message: 23
 Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2015 22:47:52 -0700 (MST)
 From: Greg VK3VT g...@vk3vt.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Getting AFSK RTTY mode to Stick
 Message-ID: 1436248072669-7604699.p...@n2.nabble.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Many thanks Joe.

 The latest firmware fixed the problem.  All works well.
 Cheers
 Greg VK3VT


 Greg,

 What firmware?  There was a bug in setting VFO B data mode fixed
 in firmware 5.13.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 2015-07-06 12:03 AM, Greg Williams wrote:

  Has anyone experienced this?  I have tested using DXLabs Commander
 directly and through LPBridge, N1MM direct and through LPB and the
 results are the same.

 Put the rig into AFSK A 45 BPS using the software, check data mode using
 the DATA MD button and it is correct. Press AB button twice, the
 frequency is transferred but the A  B all never comes up.  Swap
 operating VFOs and the mode is now DATA A, swap operating VFO's again
 (Should now have the original frequency and mode of AFSK A 45 BPS)  the
 mode is now DATA A.   Further testing reveals that this will occur just
 by changing VFOs using the A/B button.

 If you set the mode using DATA MD and the VFO B knob then Press AB
 button twice the frequency and mode is transferred to the B. More
 testing shows that changing the mode using DATA MD and the VFO B Knob
 actually changes the mode in both VFOs/Receivers.

 I then tried setting the mode in both VFOs using the following commands
 in a DXLabs Commander Macro.  (The PC020 is to give me 20Watts output)

 'k31;md$6;dt$1;bw$0040;is$2210;md6;dt1;bw0040;is2210;PC020;

 This sets the VFO A to AFSK A 45 BPS, if I put the VFO B/Sub receiver
 commands second then VFO A resets to DATA A.

 Please what am I doing wrong?  I would like to be able to select RTTY
 and have both VFOs in AFSK A 45 BPS.   Please no responses saying I
 should be using FSK.

 Cheers
 Greg




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 2 meter module

2015-07-07 Thread Dick Dievendorff
See page 62 of the owner's manual. Tap the numeric 1 button while in the VFO 
CRS menu to turn rounding on.

73 de Dick, K6KR




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of William 
Lagerberg
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 11:36 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] 2 meter module


Hi there group,

I am all ready member of the KX3 yahoo group, but regarding the fact that i do 
have also a K3, i became member here to.

I do have 2 small questions:

1) is about the fact that on 2 meters you can dial within a 5 10 12,5 etc ( 
don't remember how you call it) but my problem is that several times that when 
i go to dial over the band in fm with 12,5 it doesn’t start at for instance 
145.000 and then go little steps 12,5 up.
No it does for instance when i switch it on 144.995 it is going to make steps 
from there and goos 12,5 up zo 145.0025 etc that is not handy :-))

2) and perhaps it is related, it seems that my frequency is 5 kHz of the right 
frequency ( i only tested receiving by the way) what is the best way to check 
and, i am pretty sure it is, how can i fix it…

William Pe1bsb the Netherlands 


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[Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

2015-07-07 Thread ejkkjh
Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might be my 
first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass that I can 
find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of the existing 
caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every small tweezers I 
can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army knife, no luck.  Any 
suggestions on how to keep them there would be appreciated.  Thank you  73
Emory  WM3M
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[Elecraft] [K3] 2 meter module

2015-07-07 Thread William Lagerberg

Hi there group,

I am all ready member of the KX3 yahoo group, but regarding the fact that i do 
have also a K3, i became member here to.

I do have 2 small questions:

1) is about the fact that on 2 meters you can dial within a 5 10 12,5 etc ( 
don't remember how you call it) but my problem is that several times that when 
i go to dial over the band in fm with 12,5 it doesn’t start at for instance 
145.000 and then go little steps 12,5 up.
No it does for instance when i switch it on 144.995 it is going to make steps 
from there and goos 12,5 up zo 145.0025 etc that is not handy :-))

2) and perhaps it is related, it seems that my frequency is 5 kHz of the right 
frequency ( i only tested receiving by the way) what is the best way to check 
and, i am pretty sure it is, how can i fix it…

William Pe1bsb the Netherlands 


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 135, Issue 8

2015-07-07 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


Are you running the K3 by itself or connected to a computer?
If computer connected, what logging software is running?

With no computer connected, my K3 FW 5.29 retains the last used
data submode on each band across power cycles.  With a computer
connected, the logging program selects the data sub-mode at
start-up based on its digital interface settings.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2015-07-07 11:09 AM, Greg wrote:

I have the opposite problem...using version 5.29.  My data mode reverts to
AFSK A after mode change and turning radio off and back on.  I want it to
remain on FSK D for all bands.  Am I doing something wrong?  73, Greg-N4CC


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2015 22:47:52 -0700 (MST)
From: Greg VK3VT g...@vk3vt.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Getting AFSK RTTY mode to Stick
Message-ID: 1436248072669-7604699.p...@n2.nabble.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Many thanks Joe.

The latest firmware fixed the problem.  All works well.
Cheers
Greg VK3VT


Greg,

What firmware?  There was a bug in setting VFO B data mode fixed
in firmware 5.13.

73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


On 2015-07-06 12:03 AM, Greg Williams wrote:


Has anyone experienced this?  I have tested using DXLabs Commander
directly and through LPBridge, N1MM direct and through LPB and the
results are the same.

Put the rig into AFSK A 45 BPS using the software, check data mode using
the DATA MD button and it is correct. Press AB button twice, the
frequency is transferred but the A  B all never comes up.  Swap
operating VFOs and the mode is now DATA A, swap operating VFO's again
(Should now have the original frequency and mode of AFSK A 45 BPS)  the
mode is now DATA A.   Further testing reveals that this will occur just
by changing VFOs using the A/B button.

If you set the mode using DATA MD and the VFO B knob then Press AB
button twice the frequency and mode is transferred to the B. More
testing shows that changing the mode using DATA MD and the VFO B Knob
actually changes the mode in both VFOs/Receivers.

I then tried setting the mode in both VFOs using the following commands
in a DXLabs Commander Macro.  (The PC020 is to give me 20Watts output)

'k31;md$6;dt$1;bw$0040;is$2210;md6;dt1;bw0040;is2210;PC020;

This sets the VFO A to AFSK A 45 BPS, if I put the VFO B/Sub receiver
commands second then VFO A resets to DATA A.

Please what am I doing wrong?  I would like to be able to select RTTY
and have both VFOs in AFSK A 45 BPS.   Please no responses saying I
should be using FSK.

Cheers
Greg





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Re: [Elecraft] Windows 8.1 tablet power

2015-07-07 Thread Mark N2QT via Elecraft
Actually the issue is the tablet is able to supply power to external devices, 
which must be
disabled when the unit is being charged from an external source.  Best I can 
tell in some
devices The direction of power is either negotiated by a digital message upon 
connection 
of an external device or by shorting or opening the data lines when the unit is 
to be 
charged.  It looks like Dell tablets can operate with specific adapters but 
there is no 
guarantee this would work on another brand (and lots of review comments saying 
it doesn't).

This was all a surprise to me, I just figured I could hook things up and go. 

Mark. N2QT

 On Jul 7, 2015, at 11:50 AM, Tom tom...@videotron.ca wrote:
 
 Hmm, that's interesting. Have you tried a powered USB hub? I would think that 
 should work. 
 73 Tom 
 va2fsq.com
 
 Sent from BlueMail
 
 On Jul 7, 2015, at 10:57 AM, Mark N2QT via Elecraft 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:
 I bought a win 8.1 (not RT) tablet from Cowboom for $59, hoping to interface 
 it using its
 micro USB port.  However the USB port is the only way to provide power to 
 the thing,
 and battery life is such I'd like to leave it on charge while operating, 
 while not losing the
 USB port data functionality. 
 
 The unit is sold by Best Buy under the Unbranded name. 
 
 Anyone have luck powering such a tablet without losing the USB data 
 capability?  
 
 Mark. N2QT
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

2015-07-07 Thread ejkkjh
Thanks Jim for help.  I tried the wax but my hands are not steady enough and 
eyes not good enough, could not get the small caps in.
Anyone know if this is an all or nothing mod, can I cut out the L1 and L2 and 
add the big cap without adding the small caps or must it all be done?
I guess I will ask Elecraft about sending the board to them for the small caps 
install or try to find someone local here in MD who can do it.  thanks 73
Emory  WM3M

From: Jim Miller 
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 3:05 PM
To: ejk...@gmail.com 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

also don't try to keep you hands in position without support. always support 
your hands by your forearms on the edge of the worksurface or better yet with 
your wrists on something like bean bags closer to the work. stability rulz!

73

jim ab3cv

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com wrote:

  put a small bump of solder on one end of the existing cap. pick up the new 
cap with a toothpick that has been coated with a bit of beeswax from the sewing 
store.

  by just touching the toothpick to the top of the new cap it should adhere and 
allow you to gently place it on the existing device. heat the end with the 
solder blob to tack the new cap in place. solder the other end. reheat the 
first end briefly if necessary to make a nice joint.

  73

  jim ab3cv

  On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 2:56 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might be 
my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass that I can 
find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of the existing 
caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every small tweezers I 
can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army knife, no luck.  Any 
suggestions on how to keep them there would be appreciated.  Thank you  73
Emory  WM3M
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread Wayne Burdick
They're 0603s (.06 x .03), which would be considered mediums size by 
today's SMD standards. But it does take a bit of courage (and a good pair of 
tweezers, and maybe a shot of cheap whisky) to install them by hand. Hats off 
to our intrepid customers attempting this for the first time!

73,
Wayne
N6KR

P.S.  Our engineers and technicians routinely work with with packages that are 
about 0603 size, but have *6* leads that must all be soldered. This is done by 
flowing solder onto all 3 pins on one side at a time (carefully!), then wicking 
the excess solder off with solder wick or a vacuum tool. Not for the faint of 
heart.



On Jul 7, 2015, at 2:39 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don’t know but they are very small, I have seen bigger fleas
 
 -Original Message- From: Hank P
 Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 5:32 PM
 To: Elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?
 
 Are these 0805 or 0603/0604  or even smaller  chips ?
 
 Hank K7HP
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread Hank P

Are these 0805 or 0603/0604  or even smaller  chips ?

Hank K7HP


   Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might 
be my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass that 
I can find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of the 
existing caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every 
small tweezers I can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army 
knife, no luck.  Any suggestions on how to keep them there would be 
appreciated.  Thank you  73

   Emory  WM3M

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread ejkkjh

I don’t know but they are very small, I have seen bigger fleas

-Original Message- 
From: Hank P

Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 5:32 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

Are these 0805 or 0603/0604  or even smaller  chips ?

Hank K7HP


   Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might
be my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass that
I can find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of the
existing caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every
small tweezers I can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army
knife, no luck.  Any suggestions on how to keep them there would be
appreciated.  Thank you  73
   Emory  WM3M

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 135, Issue 8

2015-07-07 Thread Greg
I have the opposite problem...using version 5.29.  My data mode reverts to
AFSK A after mode change and turning radio off and back on.  I want it to
remain on FSK D for all bands.  Am I doing something wrong?  73, Greg-N4CC


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2015 22:47:52 -0700 (MST)
From: Greg VK3VT g...@vk3vt.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Getting AFSK RTTY mode to Stick
Message-ID: 1436248072669-7604699.p...@n2.nabble.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Many thanks Joe.

The latest firmware fixed the problem.  All works well.
Cheers
Greg VK3VT


Greg,

What firmware?  There was a bug in setting VFO B data mode fixed
in firmware 5.13.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2015-07-06 12:03 AM, Greg Williams wrote:

 Has anyone experienced this?  I have tested using DXLabs Commander
 directly and through LPBridge, N1MM direct and through LPB and the
 results are the same.

 Put the rig into AFSK A 45 BPS using the software, check data mode using
 the DATA MD button and it is correct. Press AB button twice, the
 frequency is transferred but the A  B all never comes up.  Swap
 operating VFOs and the mode is now DATA A, swap operating VFO's again
 (Should now have the original frequency and mode of AFSK A 45 BPS)  the
 mode is now DATA A.   Further testing reveals that this will occur just
 by changing VFOs using the A/B button.

 If you set the mode using DATA MD and the VFO B knob then Press AB
 button twice the frequency and mode is transferred to the B. More
 testing shows that changing the mode using DATA MD and the VFO B Knob
 actually changes the mode in both VFOs/Receivers.

 I then tried setting the mode in both VFOs using the following commands
 in a DXLabs Commander Macro.  (The PC020 is to give me 20Watts output)

 'k31;md$6;dt$1;bw$0040;is$2210;md6;dt1;bw0040;is2210;PC020;

 This sets the VFO A to AFSK A 45 BPS, if I put the VFO B/Sub receiver
 commands second then VFO A resets to DATA A.

 Please what am I doing wrong?  I would like to be able to select RTTY
 and have both VFOs in AFSK A 45 BPS.   Please no responses saying I
 should be using FSK.

 Cheers
 Greg
 



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[Elecraft] Need Help with my K2 did not turn on

2015-07-07 Thread Mauricio Fernandez via Elecraft
Hello

I'm just new in the Elecraft world.  Recently I purchase in Ebay a K2 Serial 
4401.  The problem is that when I connect the radio to the power and press the 
switch button it turn on but immediately turns off,  it shows the word 
elecraft, it reads the frequency and when goes to the power display PO and then 
and then goes off. 

Thank you for your help 
KP4LE
73's
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[Elecraft] Observation on new Synthesizers for K3

2015-07-07 Thread David Cole
Hello,

I had what I believe to be a unique opportunity to test the new
synthesizer in a high signal level environment, under some controlled
conditions.  

K7OLN lives about 750 feet from me, and we both have static antenna
setups, and because he is running WSPR K7OLN also has static power
levels for these tests.  

The three test states are as follows:

1.  The first P3 capture is K7OLN's K3, using the old synthesizer, as
received on my K3 using an old synthesizer.

2.  The second P3 capture is of K7OLN, using the same equipment on both
ends, save the new synthesizer on my rig only, and received on my K3.

3.  The third P3 capture is after K7OLN upgraded his K3 to the new
synthesizer, with both radios using the new synthesizer.

I have a personal Wiki, and have published the data there at:

http://nk7z.net/wiki/elecraft-k3-macros/elecraft-k3-xlr-to-radio/elecraft-k3-new-synthesizer/

Not scientific, but close...  As can be seen the new synthesizers make a
BIG difference.  Bigger than I would have thought!  THANK YOU
ELECRAFT!  

K7OLN's purchase of a K3, (I want my Hat Elecraft!), made it such that
both he and I can operate on the same band, in the same segment, as
close as 10 to 15 KHz away from each other and not even know the other
station is there, save the HUGE spike in the P3, (which is supposed to
be there), all while at KW power levels for both of us.


-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
For Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
For MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



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[Elecraft] 700Hz CW filter for K3

2015-07-07 Thread Doug Millar via Elecraft
I just received my CW filter. I have a 250 8 pole as well. The 700 is an 
excellent choice and works perfectly.  From unpcbs.com™ – Custom 700 Hz K3 
Filter Doug K6JEY
|   |
|   |   |   |   |   |
| unpcbs.com™ – Custom 700 Hz K3 FilterRework Eliminator™ Option Bypass Headers 
kit; Internal Mic Adaptor kit; K3 700 Hz filter |
|  |
| View on www.unpcbs.com | Preview by Yahoo |
|  |
|   |


 Dr.Doug Millar EdD. 
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Re: [Elecraft] Observation on new Synthesizers for K3

2015-07-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

David and all,

Eric's words at his early morning presentation at FDIM (Dayton) were 
that the improvement surprised everyone at Elecraft - the results were 
much better than expected.  So all K3 owners can benefit from that part 
of the K3S development.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/7/2015 6:32 PM, David Cole wrote:

Not scientific, but close...  As can be seen the new synthesizers make a
BIG difference.  Bigger than I would have thought!  THANK YOU
ELECRAFT!




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

2015-07-07 Thread Ross Primrose

Surely there must be someone in your local club who does SMD stuff

73, Ross N4RP

On 7/7/2015 4:38 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Jim for help.  I tried the wax but my hands are not steady enough and 
eyes not good enough, could not get the small caps in.
Anyone know if this is an all or nothing mod, can I cut out the L1 and L2 and 
add the big cap without adding the small caps or must it all be done?
I guess I will ask Elecraft about sending the board to them for the small caps 
install or try to find someone local here in MD who can do it.  thanks 73
Emory  WM3M

From: Jim Miller
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 3:05 PM
To: ejk...@gmail.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

also don't try to keep you hands in position without support. always support 
your hands by your forearms on the edge of the worksurface or better yet with 
your wrists on something like bean bags closer to the work. stability rulz!

73

jim ab3cv

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com wrote:

   put a small bump of solder on one end of the existing cap. pick up the new 
cap with a toothpick that has been coated with a bit of beeswax from the sewing 
store.

   by just touching the toothpick to the top of the new cap it should adhere 
and allow you to gently place it on the existing device. heat the end with the 
solder blob to tack the new cap in place. solder the other end. reheat the 
first end briefly if necessary to make a nice joint.

   73

   jim ab3cv

   On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 2:56 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might 
be my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass that I 
can find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of the 
existing caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every small 
tweezers I can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army knife, no 
luck.  Any suggestions on how to keep them there would be appreciated.  Thank 
you  73
 Emory  WM3M
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] Tablets

2015-07-07 Thread Dick,WN3R
Winbook is the tablet of choice for ham radio.  Full size USB in addition to 
micro USB. www.microcenter.com

73, Dick, WN3R

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] SMD soldering help

2015-07-07 Thread P.J.Hicks
I have done a bit  of 0603/4 but mostly 0805 size. What works for me is a small 
helper I made. Actually the first of two; the second is much more elaborate. 
  
I do my boards flat/horizontal in a holding fixture so it doesn't move around. 
  
Then I made a 'T' shaped wire 'holder' that rests on the 'T' crossbar. The leg 
of the 'T' is long enough to bend into a 'C' as big as needed to reach the 
part. The end of the leg is sharpened to a small rounded point about 2/3 the 
width of the SMT or 0.02 and rounded with emery paper. A weight is added to 
the leg an inch or so above the point. In use I place the part with tweezers or 
other tool and then set the holder tool working end on top so it holds the SMT 
part in place. Careful use of the solder pencil tip does the trick. Takes a bit 
of practice but worked well for me. My newer design works better but is, as I 
say, more complicated to build but as simple to use. Same principle though. 
  
PJH, N7PXY 
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Re: [Elecraft] Tablets

2015-07-07 Thread Wes (N7WS)
Yep.  $100 for the tablet and two days of driving, a motel room and 40+ gallons 
of gas to go pick it up.


On 7/7/2015 3:58 PM, Dick,WN3R wrote:

Winbook is the tablet of choice for ham radio.  Full size USB in addition to 
micro USB. www.microcenter.com

73, Dick, WN3R

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread Merv Schweigert

Any reason why small leaded caps cannot be just be bridged across the SMTs?

Lots easier to hold the lead with a tweezer and dap a little solder on 
the end.


Merv K9FD/KH6


They're 0603s (.06 x .03), which would be considered mediums size by 
today's SMD standards. But it does take a bit of courage (and a good pair of tweezers, and maybe a 
shot of cheap whisky) to install them by hand. Hats off to our intrepid customers attempting this 
for the first time!

73,
Wayne
N6KR

P.S.  Our engineers and technicians routinely work with with packages that are 
about 0603 size, but have *6* leads that must all be soldered. This is done by 
flowing solder onto all 3 pins on one side at a time (carefully!), then wicking 
the excess solder off with solder wick or a vacuum tool. Not for the faint of 
heart.



On Jul 7, 2015, at 2:39 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:


I don’t know but they are very small, I have seen bigger fleas

-Original Message- From: Hank P
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 5:32 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

Are these 0805 or 0603/0604  or even smaller  chips ?

Hank K7HP



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Check out the SMT tips available that are forked or split to hit both ends of 
the 0603.  My Metcal has them and I am sure other soldering irons do also.  

I no longer do 0603s, lucky if I can do 1206

Mel, K6KBE 

  From: Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2015 3:55 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?
   
Any reason why small leaded caps cannot be just be bridged across the SMTs?

Lots easier to hold the lead with a tweezer and dap a little solder on 
the end.

Merv K9FD/KH6

 They're 0603s (.06 x .03), which would be considered mediums size by 
 today's SMD standards. But it does take a bit of courage (and a good pair of 
 tweezers, and maybe a shot of cheap whisky) to install them by hand. Hats off 
 to our intrepid customers attempting this for the first time!

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

 P.S.  Our engineers and technicians routinely work with with packages that 
 are about 0603 size, but have *6* leads that must all be soldered. This is 
 done by flowing solder onto all 3 pins on one side at a time (carefully!), 
 then wicking the excess solder off with solder wick or a vacuum tool. Not for 
 the faint of heart.



 On Jul 7, 2015, at 2:39 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don’t know but they are very small, I have seen bigger fleas

 -Original Message- From: Hank P
 Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 5:32 PM
 To: Elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

 Are these 0805 or 0603/0604  or even smaller  chips ?

 Hank K7HP


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[Elecraft] Elecraft user suggestions

2015-07-07 Thread John Kramer
Hi all

Two weeks ago I bought a new factory assembled KX3 and PX3. Serial numbers 
#7972 and # 1307 respectively,
which I will be using for the great outdoors.

My main radios in the shack are Flex radio’s. I have been playing with the KX3 
and PX3 and have a number of 
suggestions for firmware and hardware improvements. Where do I send these 
suggestions to, for Eric and Wayne 
to see - I don’t want to bug them on their private email.

73

John, ZS5J   C91J   A25J   7P8J
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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Qusestion [Thread CLOSED]

2015-07-07 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Guys,

Time to close this thread in the interest of reducing overload for others due 
to the huge number of posts. This One is -way- over the normal list limit.

Also, there was a huge amount of over-copying of prior text in this thread. As 
per our list guidelines, please delete -all- prior list footers and also limit 
text from prior posts to just a few sentences if needed to retain context. It 
is never appropriate to copy multiple complete prior posts.

73,

Eric
List moderator, among other responsibilities..
elecraft.com
_..._

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
I can vouch for what Ed has said.  Much of the problem is with the fear 
of small parts.  If you have 'eye problems', a magnifying headband can 
be a great help.
Tweezers are a great tool, but be cautious with their use.  Too much 
grip on the part can send it flying to parts unknown where it becomes 
vacuum cleaner food.  A touch just light enough to secure the part is 
what you want.  I prefer straight tweezers while others prefer the 
angled type - it all depends on how you hold them to determine which is 
best for you.  If you naturally put the main body of the tweezers in 
your palm, then the angled ones will work best for you.  I leave the 
main body 'sticking up in the air', so straight tweezers work best for me.


The prior advice about tinning (putting a small pool of solder) on one 
end of the existing capacitor is correct.  Heat that solder while 
sliding the added capacitor atop the existing one - when it 'sticks', go 
solder the other end, and then come back and dress up the soldering on 
the first end.


I don't know about the calming effects of Whisky or tobacco for 
mellowing, but if you have some technique for calming the shakies, 
use it.


Age is doing its thing on me, and I am beginning to feel the effects of 
'tremors'.  I find I need to support the heels of my hands on the board 
or the bench surface to counter that problem.  Despite that, I am able 
to solder SMD components as small as 0603, and I am fortunate that my 
eyes allow me to do that part without magnification - I then inspect the 
work with magnification afterwards and make corrections as needed.  Use 
magnification at the start if you are not so fortunate.   If you need 
Microscope enlargement, then a webcam on your computer may be the 
answer to your problem - that is a 'cheap hams microscope'.


In other words, with these hints, give it a try.  I wish you success.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/7/2015 8:46 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
OK, brace your self, but I told you so (a few weeks ago) - not 
specifically you, Emory.


Surface mount work takes skill and calmness.  I compare it to the 
process precision shooters use.  Breathing in/out and out half-way and 
hold will calm nerves.  Mental thinking to calm yourself vs saying do 
not shake is some of the zen stuff that works. Resting the heel of 
your hand on something helps holding still. Whisky or some of that 
tobaccy that will mellow you...but you might get munchies so caveat 
emptor!  (legal in only three states)


Bees wax or putty with a toothpick are beginners methods. 
Professionals get a fine jeweler's tweezer to hold sm.  Use what works 
for you.




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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with my K2 did not turn on

2015-07-07 Thread Mauricio Fernandez via Elecraft
Mr Don 

I'm very happy that you answer my e-mail and thank you.  Happy because the 
advertising in e-bay said that you was the last person who touch this radio .  
And was sell to me as in working condition.

Here is the link to ebay (sorry to take your time) to verify that the seller 
was telling that the radio was working.   

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elecraft-K2-with-many-extras-recently-serviced-/111694399577?nma=truesi=ULe%252FnRYPyw4ApLB34OfmsvNuQv4%253Dorig_cvip=truert=nc_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Anyway I'm happy to go over the trouble shooting if you can help me.

From the first instructions that you sent to me
I connected the radio to a dummy load, and this is what happened

Radio shows Elecraft word in the display  
radio shows frequency
radio shows speed 09
Then radio goes off


Regards
KP4LE




On Tue, 7/7/15, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with my K2 did not turn on
 To: Mauricio Fernandez mauriciof...@yahoo.com, Elecraft Reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2015, 9:26 PM
 
 It would seem that you
 have purchased a K2 that was not working as it 
 should.  If it was advertized as a fully
 working radio, you may have 
 recourse with
 the seller for either a refund or a repair. OTOH, if the 
 seller did not state that it was working
 properly, you may have to 
 investigate and
 fix it yourself.
 
 Normally,
 the K2 will not go to a display of the power output - it 
 should come up in receive.  Disconnect
 everything from the K2 except for 
 the power
 cord and the antenna connection.  To help with diagnosing
 the 
 problem, connect the K2 to a dummy
 load.
 
 If this is a K2/100
 (with KPA100). connect the dummy load to the SO-239 
 jack.  If a K2/10, connect the dummy load to
 the ANT1 jack on the upper 
 rear panel if
 the KAT2 is installed, or to the lower rear panel ANT BNC
 
 jack if the KAT2 is not installed.
 
 If you want to troubleshoot it
 yourself, you can email me directly and I 
 can help.  Please include the configuration
 and installed options for 
 your K2 as well
 as the serial number.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 7/7/2015 6:08 PM, Mauricio Fernandez via
 Elecraft wrote:
  Hello
 
  I'm just new in
 the Elecraft world.  Recently I purchase in Ebay a K2
 Serial 4401.  The problem is that when I connect the radio
 to the power and press the switch button it turn on but
 immediately turns off,  it shows the word elecraft, it
 reads the frequency and when goes to the power display PO
 and then and then goes off.
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread Alan


On 07/07/2015 06:54 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
...
 Tweezers are a great tool, but be cautious with their use.

Rather than tweezers I prefer an Exacto knife.  You can use it to push 
the part into place and then use the knife blade to hold the part down 
while you put a blob of solder on one terminal to hold it in place. 
Then solder the other terminal(s) and finally go back to the blob and 
solder it correctly.


If you have 65-year-old eyes like mine you will need a good, strong 
light and magnification.  I bought a good-quality, brand-new, binocular 
microscope on the Internet for about $300, but a good magnifying glass 
or eye loupe would probably work also.


It's like anything else; it gets easier after you've done it a few times.

Alan N1AL




I can vouch for what Ed has said.  Much of the problem is with the fear
of small parts.  If you have 'eye problems', a magnifying headband can
be a great help.
Tweezers are a great tool, but be cautious with their use.  Too much
grip on the part can send it flying to parts unknown where it becomes
vacuum cleaner food.  A touch just light enough to secure the part is
what you want.  I prefer straight tweezers while others prefer the
angled type - it all depends on how you hold them to determine which is
best for you.  If you naturally put the main body of the tweezers in
your palm, then the angled ones will work best for you.  I leave the
main body 'sticking up in the air', so straight tweezers work best for me.

The prior advice about tinning (putting a small pool of solder) on one
end of the existing capacitor is correct.  Heat that solder while
sliding the added capacitor atop the existing one - when it 'sticks', go
solder the other end, and then come back and dress up the soldering on
the first end.

I don't know about the calming effects of Whisky or tobacco for
mellowing, but if you have some technique for calming the shakies,
use it.

Age is doing its thing on me, and I am beginning to feel the effects of
'tremors'.  I find I need to support the heels of my hands on the board
or the bench surface to counter that problem.  Despite that, I am able
to solder SMD components as small as 0603, and I am fortunate that my
eyes allow me to do that part without magnification - I then inspect the
work with magnification afterwards and make corrections as needed.  Use
magnification at the start if you are not so fortunate.   If you need
Microscope enlargement, then a webcam on your computer may be the
answer to your problem - that is a 'cheap hams microscope'.

In other words, with these hints, give it a try.  I wish you success.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/7/2015 8:46 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:

OK, brace your self, but I told you so (a few weeks ago) - not
specifically you, Emory.

Surface mount work takes skill and calmness.  I compare it to the
process precision shooters use.  Breathing in/out and out half-way and
hold will calm nerves.  Mental thinking to calm yourself vs saying do
not shake is some of the zen stuff that works. Resting the heel of
your hand on something helps holding still. Whisky or some of that
tobaccy that will mellow you...but you might get munchies so caveat
emptor!  (legal in only three states)

Bees wax or putty with a toothpick are beginners methods.
Professionals get a fine jeweler's tweezer to hold sm.  Use what works
for you.



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Re: [Elecraft] Windows 8.1 tablet power

2015-07-07 Thread Bill Frantz
Back feeding a Raspberry Pi from USB bypasses the fuse in the 
Pi. It is probably a good idea to include one in the power 
supply to the hub. That is how I powered my Pi.


When I changed to a Beaglebone Black, the USB wouldn't work. I 
had to remove power to the hub and power it from the Beaglebone 
before I could connect USB devices.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 7/7/15 at 9:29 AM, hullspee...@gmail.com (Warren Merkel) wrote:


In the case of the Raspberry Pi, I have had luck with some powered hubs
being able to back feed 5V on the USB data connection and actually power
the Pi via it's USB dataport.   This also may work for your tablet if
luck is with you :)

---
Bill Frantz| Truth and love must prevail  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | over lies and hate.  | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |   - Vaclav Havel | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with my K2 did not turn on

2015-07-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
It would seem that you have purchased a K2 that was not working as it 
should.  If it was advertized as a fully working radio, you may have 
recourse with the seller for either a refund or a repair. OTOH, if the 
seller did not state that it was working properly, you may have to 
investigate and fix it yourself.


Normally, the K2 will not go to a display of the power output - it 
should come up in receive.  Disconnect everything from the K2 except for 
the power cord and the antenna connection.  To help with diagnosing the 
problem, connect the K2 to a dummy load.


If this is a K2/100 (with KPA100). connect the dummy load to the SO-239 
jack.  If a K2/10, connect the dummy load to the ANT1 jack on the upper 
rear panel if the KAT2 is installed, or to the lower rear panel ANT BNC 
jack if the KAT2 is not installed.


If you want to troubleshoot it yourself, you can email me directly and I 
can help.  Please include the configuration and installed options for 
your K2 as well as the serial number.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/7/2015 6:08 PM, Mauricio Fernandez via Elecraft wrote:

Hello

I'm just new in the Elecraft world.  Recently I purchase in Ebay a K2 Serial 
4401.  The problem is that when I connect the radio to the power and press the 
switch button it turn on but immediately turns off,  it shows the word 
elecraft, it reads the frequency and when goes to the power display PO and then 
and then goes off.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

2015-07-07 Thread Edward R Cole
OK, brace your self, but I told you so (a few weeks ago) - not 
specifically you, Emory.


Surface mount work takes skill and calmness.  I compare it to the 
process precision shooters use.  Breathing in/out and out half-way 
and hold will calm nerves.  Mental thinking to calm yourself vs 
saying do not shake is some of the zen stuff that works.  Resting 
the heel of your hand on something helps holding still.  Whisky or 
some of that tobaccy that will mellow you...but you might get 
munchies so caveat emptor!  (legal in only three states)


Bees wax or putty with a toothpick are beginners 
methods.  Professionals get a fine jeweler's tweezer to hold sm.  Use 
what works for you.


Soldering a sm cap on top of an existing cap is a little tricky.  Add 
a bit solder to one end of the existing cap so the new cap can be 
slid into it.  You melt that solder with iron and slide in the top 
cap - hold - carefully remove iron -keep holding a couple seconds 
till solder solidifies.  Now add a bit of solder on the other 
end.  Use an ohmmeter to test continuity from the top cap to the pc 
trace where the cap is installed.  Good continuity - you're 
done!  Continuity across the cap - bad - do over.


If this is just too hard for you, then find a local ham to help you 
with it.  Or send it to Elecraft. The filter is not large so not real 
expensive to ship. This is not a service that would be cost-effective 
for me to do for you.


73, Ed - KL7UW (wish I could still pass the soldering inspection that 
I used to get from NASA - brag blah blah)

-
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2015 14:49:03 -0700
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?
Message-ID: 5a527057-cdd2-4997-b957-62def2f21...@elecraft.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

They're 0603s (.06 x .03), which would be considered mediums size 
by today's SMD standards. But it does take a bit of courage (and a 
good pair of tweezers, and maybe a shot of cheap whisky) to install 
them by hand. Hats off to our intrepid customers attempting this for 
the first time!


73,
Wayne
N6KR

P.S.  Our engineers and technicians routinely work with with packages 
that are about 0603 size, but have *6* leads that must all be 
soldered. This is done by flowing solder onto all 3 pins on one side 
at a time (carefully!), then wicking the excess solder off with 
solder wick or a vacuum tool. Not for the faint of heart.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft user suggestions

2015-07-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

Post them to the Elecraft reflector, they do monitor it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/7/2015 8:51 AM, John Kramer wrote:

  Where do I send these suggestions to, for Eric and Wayne
to see - I don’t want to bug them on their private email.




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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Qusestion [Thread CLOSED]

2015-07-07 Thread Chris Hallinan
Argh.  This was a very interesting and pertinent thread, and I learned a
lot from it.  Those that aren't interested should learn to use the delete
key. :(

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 7:26 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
e...@elecraft.com wrote:

 Guys,

 Time to close this thread in the interest of reducing overload for others
 due to the huge number of posts. This One is -way- over the normal list
 limit.

 Also, there was a huge amount of over-copying of prior text in this
 thread. As per our list guidelines, please delete -all- prior list footers
 and also limit text from prior posts to just a few sentences if needed to
 retain context. It is never appropriate to copy multiple complete prior
 posts.

 73,

 Eric
 List moderator, among other responsibilities..
 elecraft.com
 _..._

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-- 
Life is like Linux - it never stands still.
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Re: [Elecraft] Observation on new Synthesizers for K3

2015-07-07 Thread Robert Clark
Interesting reading. What does the synthesizer actually do? How is the new one 
better than the old one?

NJ4J

Robert W. Clark
Executive Director
Center for Personnel Development In CTE
Temple University
Philadelphia, Pa

 On Jul 7, 2015, at 6:56 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 David and all,
 
 Eric's words at his early morning presentation at FDIM (Dayton) were that the 
 improvement surprised everyone at Elecraft - the results were much better 
 than expected.  So all K3 owners can benefit from that part of the K3S 
 development.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 7/7/2015 6:32 PM, David Cole wrote:
 Not scientific, but close...  As can be seen the new synthesizers make a
 BIG difference.  Bigger than I would have thought!  THANK YOU
 ELECRAFT!
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Observation on new Synthesizers for K3

2015-07-07 Thread Al Lorona
We like to think that a VFO exists only at one frequency -- the frequency on 
the receiver display.
But in reality every VFO has width, and it occupies not only it's nominal 
frequency but is smeared both lower and higher in frequency, too. This is 
because of the phase noise of the synthesizer or VFO.
Because of the smearing effect of this phase noise, received signals can also 
appear wider than they are. The noise floor on either side rises in direct 
proportion to the synthesizer's phase noise. Dave's screenshots of the P3 
spectrograms show this smearing clearly.
An oscillator with less phase noise looks more like that ideal picture we all 
have in our heads -- of a signal that's infinitely narrow. In the third of 
Dave's screenshots you can see how the new synths are closer to an ideal 
oscillator-- the CW signal's width on the spectrogram is much narrower. 
If a signal has lower noise sidebands (whether the sidebands are generated in 
the transmitter or the receiver... each of them has a synthesizer) then you can 
enjoy less interference from an adjacent signal. You will also *cause* less 
interference to your neighbors on the band.
I have no idea of the design of the new synths, but in general to design a 
synthesizer with low phase noise you have to start with very low noise devices, 
pay really careful attention to the parts of the phase-locked loop like the Q, 
feedback, the numeric dithering, the loop filter and various other aspects of 
the circuit. It's a real art. It appears from Dave's observations that there is 
a significant and measurable difference.

Al W6LX

  
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Re: [Elecraft] Observation on new Synthesizers for K3

2015-07-07 Thread David Cole
Hi,
I would be interested in a detailed explanation as to why things are
tighter with the new synths, as opposed to the old ones as well...
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
For Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
For MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Wed, 2015-07-08 at 00:31 -0400, Robert Clark wrote:
 Interesting reading. What does the synthesizer actually do? How is the new 
 one better than the old one?
 
 NJ4J
 
 Robert W. Clark
 Executive Director
 Center for Personnel Development In CTE
 Temple University
 Philadelphia, Pa
 
  On Jul 7, 2015, at 6:56 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  
  David and all,
  
  Eric's words at his early morning presentation at FDIM (Dayton) were that 
  the improvement surprised everyone at Elecraft - the results were much 
  better than expected.  So all K3 owners can benefit from that part of the 
  K3S development.
  
  73,
  Don W3FPR
  
  On 7/7/2015 6:32 PM, David Cole wrote:
  Not scientific, but close...  As can be seen the new synthesizers make a
  BIG difference.  Bigger than I would have thought!  THANK YOU
  ELECRAFT!
  
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[Elecraft] Windows 8.1 tablet power

2015-07-07 Thread Mark N2QT via Elecraft
I bought a win 8.1 (not RT) tablet from Cowboom for $59, hoping to interface it 
using its
micro USB port.  However the USB port is the only way to provide power to the 
thing,
and battery life is such I'd like to leave it on charge while operating, while 
not losing the
USB port data functionality. 

The unit is sold by Best Buy under the Unbranded name. 

Anyone have luck powering such a tablet without losing the USB data capability? 
 

Mark. N2QT
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