Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
VHF/UHF is a VERY different animal with respect to RFI to and from a vehicle's electronics. Using the vehicle's chassis as the return for power is a recipe for serious problems. Yes, it carries DC just fine, but it forms a BIG loop that is a sitting duck for all the RF trash in the vehicle. 73, Jim K9YC On Mon,9/12/2016 8:29 PM, thelastdb wrote: I was once a 2-way radio tech and have installed over 1000 business band radios (yes, over one thousand) in my 15 or so years career. One thing we, the companies I've worked for, was NEVER to run a dedicated ground wire to the battery. We used a short ground wire from the radio and the local vehicle chassis. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
Myron, Good points. For those who choose not to trust the conductivity of the vehicle chassis local ground point, run the negative wire to a point on the vehicle chassis near the point where the battery to chassis ground wire is mounted - but not to the battery terminal itself nor the battery to chassis cable mounting point. Create a new ground point near the battery to chassis wire and bite into the metal with an adequate star washer for a low resistance connection - no fuse in the negative wire. This is the recommendation of W8JI Tom Rauch who has also installed many mobile radio systems (commercial and amateur). See http://www.w8ji.com/mobile_ground.htm as has been mentioned previously. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 11:29 PM, thelastdb wrote: I was once a 2-way radio tech and have installed over 1000 business band radios (yes, over one thousand) in my 15 or so years career. One thing we, the companies I've worked for, was NEVER to run a dedicated ground wire to the battery. We used a short ground wire from the radio and the local vehicle chassis. From the 100W Motrac/Mastr II/SyntorX (and many others) all used the chassis as a return path. Only once did I have a problem. Once a Low band unit (39MHz) with a magnetic mount (NMO-40) came back because the excess ground wire was coiled into a nice inductor. (I installed that one). Caused all sorts of RFI in the broadcast radio etc. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
I was once a 2-way radio tech and have installed over 1000 business band radios (yes, over one thousand) in my 15 or so years career. One thing we, the companies I've worked for, was NEVER to run a dedicated ground wire to the battery. We used a short ground wire from the radio and the local vehicle chassis. From the 100W Motrac/Mastr II/SyntorX (and many others) all used the chassis as a return path. Only once did I have a problem. Once a Low band unit (39MHz) with a magnetic mount (NMO-40) came back because the excess ground wire was coiled into a nice inductor. (I installed that one). Caused all sorts of RFI in the broadcast radio etc. Just a data point on thousands and thousands of industrial, commercial and public safety radio installs out there doing it that way. Myron WVØHPrinted on Recycled Data Original message From: Jim Brown Date: 9/12/2016 8:58 PM (GMT-07:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount OK. In the absence of learning something different, I agree with your analysis, Josh. One of the great things about sticking your neck out and saying what you think you know is that when you're wrong, folks will tell you about it. :) Thanks! 73, Jim On Mon,9/12/2016 7:40 PM, Josh Fiden wrote: > How I understand it is that the sensor is measuring charge/discharge > current of the battery. > > The following assumes the radio is connected directly to the battery > terminal: > > Case 1. If the alternator is running, then current to the radio is > passing through the sensor which looks like charging current to the > battery. > > Case 2. If the alternator is not running, then the current to the > radio is discharging the battery, but not being registered by the sensor. > > If instead we connect the radio's negative supply to the chassis > ground side of the sensor, then the sensor can correctly measure when > the radio is discharging the battery. > > Caveat: my understanding of this is from the fount of all knowledge, > i.e. I read about it on the internet! If I got it wrong, someone > please correct. > > 73, > Josh W6XU > > On 9/12/2016 5:56 PM, Jim Brown wrote: >> Thanks Josh. >> >> To confuse the sensor, it seems to me that the sensor would need to >> be built into the battery lug, so that it was between where we could >> connect our 12V minus lead and the battery -- i.e., so that our >> current was going through it. I was assuming it was on the wire side >> of the battery lug. I haven't seen one of these things, so I must >> plead ignorance. >> >> Thanks and 73, Jim > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to j...@audiosystemsgroup.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to thelas...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3S Data Mode Question
Tom, Another thought - take a look at the DC voltage in the VFO B alternate display. If your voltage is dropping much below 12.5 volts, that might be the problem. Should that be the problem, check your power supply output, it should be 13.8 volts or higher - preferably 14.3 volts or more. All power supply connections should be tight to reduce voltage drop. Run the power cable directly from the power supply to the K3. If you use a "Rigrunner" or similar DC distribution device, use it for powering accessories and not the K3. A fused Rigrunner introduces at least 4 points of contacts, each of which can contribute to voltage drops. Is this a K3S/100 or a K3S/10? If it is a K3S/100 then the switchover from low power to the KPA3 occurs above 12 watts. Check that the circuit breaker on the back of the KPA3 is not in a tripped condition. If all checks out OK and you still have problems, contact k3supp...@elecraft.com for some additional ideas. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 8:41 PM, Tom Richardson wrote: I bought a new K3S two weeks ago, and I am trying to learn how to use it. I apologize if the answer to this issue is obvious, but it isn't obvious to me. I am trying to use the K3S in data mode (JT65 or AFSK). I have the DATA MD set to DATA A, MIC SEL to LInE In, MODE to DATA, and LINE input gain to 10. Everything seems to work until I try to increase the power output beyond 12 watts. At 13 watts and beyond, the power abruptly drops down to one or two watts. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3S Data Mode Question
Tom, Are you driving your audio level correctly. With the K3S (or K3 or KX3 or KX2) you need to set the soundcard level and the line in level so you have 4 bars solid on the ALC meter with possibly the 5th bar flickering. Then adjust the power output to the desired level with the power knob. This is essential for the K3S to maintain good power control. Power control will be erratic if you do otherwise. Ignore the common internet advice to set the power to maximum and use the audio level to control the power - that just does not work with the K3S because its power control mechanism is different than other transceivers. As far as the "No ALC" internet advice goes, for the K3S, the onset of ALC is at the 5th bar, so 4 bars is actually the No ALC point. The 1st 4 bars are there to help you adjust the audio level - sort of like a VU Meter. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 8:41 PM, Tom Richardson wrote: I bought a new K3S two weeks ago, and I am trying to learn how to use it. I apologize if the answer to this issue is obvious, but it isn't obvious to me. I am trying to use the K3S in data mode (JT65 or AFSK). I have the DATA MD set to DATA A, MIC SEL to LInE In, MODE to DATA, and LINE input gain to 10. Everything seems to work until I try to increase the power output beyond 12 watts. At 13 watts and beyond, the power abruptly drops down to one or two watts. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
OK. In the absence of learning something different, I agree with your analysis, Josh. One of the great things about sticking your neck out and saying what you think you know is that when you're wrong, folks will tell you about it. :) Thanks! 73, Jim On Mon,9/12/2016 7:40 PM, Josh Fiden wrote: How I understand it is that the sensor is measuring charge/discharge current of the battery. The following assumes the radio is connected directly to the battery terminal: Case 1. If the alternator is running, then current to the radio is passing through the sensor which looks like charging current to the battery. Case 2. If the alternator is not running, then the current to the radio is discharging the battery, but not being registered by the sensor. If instead we connect the radio's negative supply to the chassis ground side of the sensor, then the sensor can correctly measure when the radio is discharging the battery. Caveat: my understanding of this is from the fount of all knowledge, i.e. I read about it on the internet! If I got it wrong, someone please correct. 73, Josh W6XU On 9/12/2016 5:56 PM, Jim Brown wrote: Thanks Josh. To confuse the sensor, it seems to me that the sensor would need to be built into the battery lug, so that it was between where we could connect our 12V minus lead and the battery -- i.e., so that our current was going through it. I was assuming it was on the wire side of the battery lug. I haven't seen one of these things, so I must plead ignorance. Thanks and 73, Jim __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to j...@audiosystemsgroup.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
How I understand it is that the sensor is measuring charge/discharge current of the battery. The following assumes the radio is connected directly to the battery terminal: Case 1. If the alternator is running, then current to the radio is passing through the sensor which looks like charging current to the battery. Case 2. If the alternator is not running, then the current to the radio is discharging the battery, but not being registered by the sensor. If instead we connect the radio's negative supply to the chassis ground side of the sensor, then the sensor can correctly measure when the radio is discharging the battery. Caveat: my understanding of this is from the fount of all knowledge, i.e. I read about it on the internet! If I got it wrong, someone please correct. 73, Josh W6XU On 9/12/2016 5:56 PM, Jim Brown wrote: Thanks Josh. To confuse the sensor, it seems to me that the sensor would need to be built into the battery lug, so that it was between where we could connect our 12V minus lead and the battery -- i.e., so that our current was going through it. I was assuming it was on the wire side of the battery lug. I haven't seen one of these things, so I must plead ignorance. Thanks and 73, Jim __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
Wow! This discussion reinforces my decision to keep my 20+ year old cars on the road. But, isn't the issue making sure the radio can never provide a path for current from the "-" terminal on the battery to ground through the radio? 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 2:53 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount Not necessarily. There is no good reason to bond the radio to the vehicle. It is, however, necessary to have good RF connection at the antenna between the coax shield and the body so that it can act as a counterpoise. That connection could be through a good RF capacitor. In this were done, I see no reason why powering the radio directly from the battery would be problematic, or would interfere with that system. Also, it seems to me that the system you describe is only viable with electric or hybrid vehicles. There are other significantly greater issues with installation of a HF radio in these vehicles. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Trump's a bigot - Hillary's a crook!!
Now that I have your attention - off topic subjects get the most airtime it seems Here is an on-topic question - thanks!! I currently feed a powered speaker with the constant line output of my K3. I can individually adjust that speaker's volume locally and the HP volume on the K3. I'm contemplating the purchase of an SP-3. As this speaker is unpowered, I will have to use the K3 power amp and am afraid that I will lose the individual volume control versatility I have. If this is the case - would it be possible to repurpose the sub-rx (I don't have one) AF gain "ring" to control the speaker amp level. My understanding is that the speaker out and HP out's are fed by separate DAC's. Thanks, Russ KD4JO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
Thanks Josh. To confuse the sensor, it seems to me that the sensor would need to be built into the battery lug, so that it was between where we could connect our 12V minus lead and the battery -- i.e., so that our current was going through it. I was assuming it was on the wire side of the battery lug. I haven't seen one of these things, so I must plead ignorance. Thanks and 73, Jim On Mon,9/12/2016 5:01 PM, Josh Fiden wrote: Hi Jim, It's not just hybrid & electric vehicles. Some newer conventional cars shut the engine off during idle to save fuel. There's a sensor inline with the battery neg terminal to measure charge & discharge rates to prevent the start-stop algorithm from causing a dead battery. If you connect direct to the battery, you will confuse the sensor. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] [OT] Jump starter system for K3 portable power?
I'm looking for one of those hand carried jump starter/ portable power units for occasional field use for my K3 plus the rare car jump start in a pinch. Ultimately I would like it to have a replaceable battery, real three state charger that allows it to be plugged in at all times, high current output lugs (not just 12v jack), built in jumper cables, light enough to carry short distances, made in USA! OK that's a tall order! Do you know of a brand and model that covers many or most of these requirements? MOST of the dozens on Amazon do not appear to have the quality I prefer and are throw away, consumer grade units. I do like the looks of the Schumacher ProSeries chargers (22 amp hours or so). If I fail in my quest I'll consider a West Mountain Radio setup that I can lug out to the car if necessary for field use, camping, jump starting etc.. The up side is that Power Poles are standard! PS: I am aware of the amp-hours vs. power output vs. operating time vs. weight aspect of making a selection. I believe not getting a hernia will ultimately define the capacity of whichever unit I choose! Thanks for reading! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Did anybody test any universal USB / 12V lithium batter y pack for KX3?
I bought one of these from Amazon about 6 weeks ago: http://tinyurl.com/jf4co9o It is advertised at having a 13.6AH capacity. I haven't tested it with my battery analyzer yet (but will tomorrow) but it doesn't seem to be anywhere near that from what I can guesstimate from the length of time it powered my KX2. It did however start my V8 Silverado in a test of that capability. It also comes with almost every size of barrel connector you might ever need. John AE5X http://ae5x.blogspot.com/ The ICTM (Sponsored by Content.Ad) Diabetes Breakthrough That Will Bankrupt Diabetes Industry http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/57d74ce5610054ce47ecfst01vuc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S Data Mode Question
I bought a new K3S two weeks ago, and I am trying to learn how to use it. I apologize if the answer to this issue is obvious, but it isn't obvious to me. I am trying to use the K3S in data mode (JT65 or AFSK). I have the DATA MD set to DATA A, MIC SEL to LInE In, MODE to DATA, and LINE input gain to 10. Everything seems to work until I try to increase the power output beyond 12 watts. At 13 watts and beyond, the power abruptly drops down to one or two watts. I can see the signal in my P3, as well as hear it in the K3S monitor. I am using either WSJT-X, DM780 or fldigi software with identical results. The K3S seems to work fine in CW and SSB modes. I would appreciate any insights that might help me understand what is happening. 73, Tom N4WE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
Hi Jim, It's not just hybrid & electric vehicles. Some newer conventional cars shut the engine off during idle to save fuel. There's a sensor inline with the battery neg terminal to measure charge & discharge rates to prevent the start-stop algorithm from causing a dead battery. If you connect direct to the battery, you will confuse the sensor. 73, Josh W6XU On 9/12/2016 2:52 PM, Jim Brown wrote: Not necessarily. There is no good reason to bond the radio to the vehicle. It is, however, necessary to have good RF connection at the antenna between the coax shield and the body so that it can act as a counterpoise. That connection could be through a good RF capacitor. In this were done, I see no reason why powering the radio directly from the battery would be problematic, or would interfere with that system. Also, it seems to me that the system you describe is only viable with electric or hybrid vehicles. There are other significantly greater issues with installation of a HF radio in these vehicles. 73, Jim K9YC On Mon,9/12/2016 1:57 PM, Gmail wrote: Newer cars that have the auto stop feature ( engine turns off at stop lights) have a sensor between battery negative and car frame. In these cars the radio has to be connected to frame ground not the battery negative post or the sensor will not work right correctly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
Not necessarily. There is no good reason to bond the radio to the vehicle. It is, however, necessary to have good RF connection at the antenna between the coax shield and the body so that it can act as a counterpoise. That connection could be through a good RF capacitor. In this were done, I see no reason why powering the radio directly from the battery would be problematic, or would interfere with that system. Also, it seems to me that the system you describe is only viable with electric or hybrid vehicles. There are other significantly greater issues with installation of a HF radio in these vehicles. 73, Jim K9YC On Mon,9/12/2016 1:57 PM, Gmail wrote: Newer cars that have the auto stop feature ( engine turns off at stop lights) have a sensor between battery negative and car frame. In these cars the radio has to be connected to frame ground not the battery negative post or the sensor will not work right correctly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 vehicle mount
Newer cars that have the auto stop feature ( engine turns off at stop lights) have a sensor between battery negative and car frame. In these cars the radio has to be connected to frame ground not the battery negative post or the sensor will not work right correctly. Ray W8LYJ Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Independent Headphone & Speaker Volume
Russ, There is a input A and input B switch on the SP3. I only use input A to the speaker, so when on headphones I push the A/B switch on the SP3 to mute the speaker. I have a Behringer MicroAmp HA400 4 channel stereo headphone amplifier I use for field day, when we might have multiple folks on headphones listening to the radio. That could be used as a separate volume control for your headphones. 73, Hoop K9QJS On Sep 12, 2016, at 1:38 PM, Russ wrote: Hi: I currently feed a powered speaker with the constant line output of my K3. I can individually adjust that speaker's volume locally and the HP volume on the K3. I'm contemplating the purchase of an SP-3. As this speaker is unpowered, I will have to use the K3 power amp and am afraid that I will lose the individual volume control versatility I have. If this is the case - would it be possible to repurpose the sub-rx (I don't have one) AF gain "ring" to control the speaker amp level. My understanding is that the speaker out and HP out's are fed by separate DAC's. Thanks, Russ KD4JO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to jkhoo...@rockisland.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
As mentioned, you lose 70 cm. I do have the 2 m module installed but haven't had much opportunity to use it. The roofing filters and the overall receiver performance of the K3 will floor you compared to the 817 (I owned an 817ND). Working PSK-31 with a CW key is a blast (as a alternative to dragging the extra equipment around). I have a Flex-6500 on the desk. I have been sorely tempted numerous times to simplify, sell and go with a KPA-100 and KX-3 combination to replace it. I've done many side-by-side receive comparisons and the KX3 holds its own nicely in typical conditions. So, not sure what you should do but as one that had the 817ND and now a KX3 I have never looked back. I suggest the roofing filter and the antenna tuner at minimum. I'm not a fan of the current internal charger option - that needs work. I use an external battery and fall back to internal only when necessary. The paddles work very well for me. I also have the Begali but the KXPD3 is good. Everything else (and I got it all) is just fluff I think. Whatever you choose... have a blast! 73, Kevin K4VD On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 4:08 PM, Barry wrote: > Brian, > I would say the KX3 and KXPA100 is a good choice. I have this setup > now, and I use it for everything, QRP Field Day to contesting, and > everything in between. I have used mine on CW, SSB, and various digital > modes. It's been amazing. In my opinion, it is the most flexible radio > being sold today, and its performance is limited more by the environment > than the radio itself. > > I have mine set up to use spectrum display using Win4K3 by way of a > good sound card that is driven by the radio's I&Q output that Elecraft so > thoughtfully provided. I use this same output for CW Skimmer that gives me > local spotting over ~130 KHz of spectrum in the band I'm on. I also have > Ham Radio Deluxe connected for cluster spots and logging. > > Digital modes are handled via a SignaLink USB interface that takes the > audio from the KX3 and uses its own sound card. I use the aux out on the > back of the SignaLink to drive a pair of powered computer speakers. This > way I never need to change anything when going from SSB to digital except > to remove the mic and plug in the SignaLink in its place. > > To address your concerns about interfacing to the KX3 with a SignaLink > USB, it's pretty easy. You will need a cable for the radio and reset the > jumpers, or get the prewired header plug. The SignaLink USB does control > the radio, no problem. I would say go for it. > > > > 73, > Barry > K3NDM > > -- Original Message -- > From: "Brian ve3bwp Pietrzyk" > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Sent: 9/12/2016 3:39:11 PM > Subject: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)! > > Hello All, >> >> Not an Elecraft owner yet but making plans to be one soon. I’m just >> starting the research. >> >> A close friend is all Elecraft and I'm impressed. Even meeting the >> company owners and designers at Dayton has me sold on them. >> >> My QRP rig today is an FT817 which I love (I have been known to sleep >> with it under my pillow lol) and have had a few memorable QRP >> mini-expiditions on vacation trips to Central America, France and around >> the province. >> >> Currently my primary base rig is a Kenwood TS590 no complaints about it >> so far. I have been approached by prospective buyers with reasonable offers >> to sell both these rigs. So I am giving serious thought to using this >> opportunity to get a KX3 and the KXPA100 100W amplifier/tuner combo to >> replace my TS590 as a base radio. I would then use the KX3 on its own >> instead of the FT817 for my QRP trips. >> >> I am playing now with the HF digital modes such as FreeDV, PSK31, JT65, >> WSPR so hopefully CAT and audio interfacing to a computer is easy. Today I >> use a SignaLink USB. >> >> I like the idea of getting to know one radio really well (the kx3) by >> using it as my primary rig on the road AND at home (maybe even in the >> mobile at some point). I would then save my pennies for the PX3 and even a >> KX2 for lighter travels at some point. >> >> Is it safe to assume i won't be loosing any performance by making this >> chance and even gain some? >> >> Hopefully no trolls on this group. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Ve3bwp >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to k3...@comcast.net >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.n
[Elecraft] Independent Headphone & Speaker Volume
Hi: I currently feed a powered speaker with the constant line output of my K3. I can individually adjust that speaker's volume locally and the HP volume on the K3. I'm contemplating the purchase of an SP-3. As this speaker is unpowered, I will have to use the K3 power amp and am afraid that I will lose the individual volume control versatility I have. If this is the case - would it be possible to repurpose the sub-rx (I don't have one) AF gain "ring" to control the speaker amp level. My understanding is that the speaker out and HP out's are fed by separate DAC's. Thanks, Russ KD4JO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
The simplest and easier mount that actually works and allows for positioning depending on what you are planning, check this out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRQUKQ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have one for my KX3 and KX2. I'd post a picture, but don't think that is allowed on this forum. I must admit, when I thought of it, I didn't think it would work, but it did over 10,000 miles this summer on trips. Tom, W1TEF On 9/12/2016 8:24 AM, Wayne Michael wrote: I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along with the FTM-400? Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? Thanks, Wayne AC9HP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to w1...@swsports.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
Brian, In August of 2015 I sold all my HF radios to buy a used KX3 with the 100w amp, I never regretted the decision. I did buy the internal tuner and installed it myself and will soon get the 2 meter add-on. Barry (K3NDM) mention Win4k3 and CWSkimmer, which I use as well along with HRD Logger and N1MM+. If you can swing it, go for it. Mike - K3MAW On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 3:39 PM, Brian ve3bwp Pietrzyk wrote: > Hello All, > > Not an Elecraft owner yet but making plans to be one soon. I’m just > starting the research. > > A close friend is all Elecraft and I'm impressed. Even meeting the company > owners and designers at Dayton has me sold on them. > > My QRP rig today is an FT817 which I love (I have been known to sleep with > it under my pillow lol) and have had a few memorable QRP mini-expiditions > on vacation trips to Central America, France and around the province. > > Currently my primary base rig is a Kenwood TS590 no complaints about it so > far. I have been approached by prospective buyers with reasonable offers to > sell both these rigs. So I am giving serious thought to using this > opportunity to get a KX3 and the KXPA100 100W amplifier/tuner combo to > replace my TS590 as a base radio. I would then use the KX3 on its own > instead of the FT817 for my QRP trips. > > I am playing now with the HF digital modes such as FreeDV, PSK31, JT65, > WSPR so hopefully CAT and audio interfacing to a computer is easy. Today I > use a SignaLink USB. > > I like the idea of getting to know one radio really well (the kx3) by > using it as my primary rig on the road AND at home (maybe even in the > mobile at some point). I would then save my pennies for the PX3 and even a > KX2 for lighter travels at some point. > > Is it safe to assume i won't be loosing any performance by making this > chance and even gain some? > > Hopefully no trolls on this group. > > Thanks, > > Ve3bwp > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to mwatter...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
Brian, I suspect you will *gain* performance with the Elecraft gear. Especially if you equate performance with being able to copy weaker signals and the ability to "saddle up" closer to other stations when working in a pileup. Another thing to consider with Elecraft is "upgradability". Elecraft provides firmware upgrades for the K3, K3S, KX3 and KX2 at no cost, and with those being a SDR transceivers, the capability exists to change the behavior of the rig dramatically (although a firmware upgrade will not likely be a drastic change, but improved or added function). Elecraft offers those upgrades rather than insisting you trade in your rig for the "latest and greatest" - so you will have a transceiver that will last you for many, many years with no additional outlay of cash. Any hardware mods that may be offered will also available at modest cost. The premier example of this is the Elecraft K2 which was released to customers in 1999 and even the very earliest K2 can be upgraded to the current level (with the exception of a few non-performance related mods). My upgraded Field Test K2 (1998) is just as good as a newly built one, and that is 18 years later than the original. Elecraft has "jumped through hoops" lately to continue to support their legacy gear even though the availability of thru-hole parts continues to dry up as component manufacturers switch over to SMD parts leaving the users of thru-hole parts to scramble. We may see the day when critical thru-hole parts will come to an end, but until that time, Elecraft will continue to support their legacy products. I repair those legacy products and have been involved in a number of "parts scrambles", but Elecraft support continues with equivalent parts substitutes (usually SMD parts mounted on DIP socket carrier boards). 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 3:39 PM, Brian ve3bwp Pietrzyk wrote: Hello All, Not an Elecraft owner yet but making plans to be one soon. I’m just starting the research. A close friend is all Elecraft and I'm impressed. Even meeting the company owners and designers at Dayton has me sold on them. Is it safe to assume i won't be loosing any performance by making this chance and even gain some? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
Brian, I would say the KX3 and KXPA100 is a good choice. I have this setup now, and I use it for everything, QRP Field Day to contesting, and everything in between. I have used mine on CW, SSB, and various digital modes. It's been amazing. In my opinion, it is the most flexible radio being sold today, and its performance is limited more by the environment than the radio itself. I have mine set up to use spectrum display using Win4K3 by way of a good sound card that is driven by the radio's I&Q output that Elecraft so thoughtfully provided. I use this same output for CW Skimmer that gives me local spotting over ~130 KHz of spectrum in the band I'm on. I also have Ham Radio Deluxe connected for cluster spots and logging. Digital modes are handled via a SignaLink USB interface that takes the audio from the KX3 and uses its own sound card. I use the aux out on the back of the SignaLink to drive a pair of powered computer speakers. This way I never need to change anything when going from SSB to digital except to remove the mic and plug in the SignaLink in its place. To address your concerns about interfacing to the KX3 with a SignaLink USB, it's pretty easy. You will need a cable for the radio and reset the jumpers, or get the prewired header plug. The SignaLink USB does control the radio, no problem. I would say go for it. 73, Barry K3NDM -- Original Message -- From: "Brian ve3bwp Pietrzyk" To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: 9/12/2016 3:39:11 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)! Hello All, Not an Elecraft owner yet but making plans to be one soon. I’m just starting the research. A close friend is all Elecraft and I'm impressed. Even meeting the company owners and designers at Dayton has me sold on them. My QRP rig today is an FT817 which I love (I have been known to sleep with it under my pillow lol) and have had a few memorable QRP mini-expiditions on vacation trips to Central America, France and around the province. Currently my primary base rig is a Kenwood TS590 no complaints about it so far. I have been approached by prospective buyers with reasonable offers to sell both these rigs. So I am giving serious thought to using this opportunity to get a KX3 and the KXPA100 100W amplifier/tuner combo to replace my TS590 as a base radio. I would then use the KX3 on its own instead of the FT817 for my QRP trips. I am playing now with the HF digital modes such as FreeDV, PSK31, JT65, WSPR so hopefully CAT and audio interfacing to a computer is easy. Today I use a SignaLink USB. I like the idea of getting to know one radio really well (the kx3) by using it as my primary rig on the road AND at home (maybe even in the mobile at some point). I would then save my pennies for the PX3 and even a KX2 for lighter travels at some point. Is it safe to assume i won't be loosing any performance by making this chance and even gain some? Hopefully no trolls on this group. Thanks, Ve3bwp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k3...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
Re "Is it safe to assume I won't be loosing any performance by making this chance and even gain some?": If you mean the KX2 or KX3 vs. the FT-817 you should have better HF performance by far. And you can opt for an internal ATU in either rig, a huge plus in my mind, Brian. What you lose is the 144/470 all-mode capability of the FT-817 (which is why I kept mine as long as I did). You can add 2m to the KX3, but I've not done that. While the KX3 has features not available in the KX2 (more bands, a roofing filter, feasibility of adding the PX3 panadapter, a bit more power), I've found the KX2 to be an equally good QRP rig. 73, Phil W7OX On 9/12/16 12:39 PM, Brian ve3bwp Pietrzyk wrote: Hello All, Not an Elecraft owner yet but making plans to be one soon. I’m just starting the research. A close friend is all Elecraft and I'm impressed. Even meeting the company owners and designers at Dayton has me sold on them. My QRP rig today is an FT817 which I love (I have been known to sleep with it under my pillow lol) and have had a few memorable QRP mini-expiditions on vacation trips to Central America, France and around the province. Currently my primary base rig is a Kenwood TS590 no complaints about it so far. I have been approached by prospective buyers with reasonable offers to sell both these rigs. So I am giving serious thought to using this opportunity to get a KX3 and the KXPA100 100W amplifier/tuner combo to replace my TS590 as a base radio. I would then use the KX3 on its own instead of the FT817 for my QRP trips. I am playing now with the HF digital modes such as FreeDV, PSK31, JT65, WSPR so hopefully CAT and audio interfacing to a computer is easy. Today I use a SignaLink USB. I like the idea of getting to know one radio really well (the kx3) by using it as my primary rig on the road AND at home (maybe even in the mobile at some point). I would then save my pennies for the PX3 and even a KX2 for lighter travels at some point. Is it safe to assume i won't be loosing any performance by making this chance and even gain some? Hopefully no trolls on this group. Thanks, Ve3bwp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
Hello All, Not an Elecraft owner yet but making plans to be one soon. I’m just starting the research. A close friend is all Elecraft and I'm impressed. Even meeting the company owners and designers at Dayton has me sold on them. My QRP rig today is an FT817 which I love (I have been known to sleep with it under my pillow lol) and have had a few memorable QRP mini-expiditions on vacation trips to Central America, France and around the province. Currently my primary base rig is a Kenwood TS590 no complaints about it so far. I have been approached by prospective buyers with reasonable offers to sell both these rigs. So I am giving serious thought to using this opportunity to get a KX3 and the KXPA100 100W amplifier/tuner combo to replace my TS590 as a base radio. I would then use the KX3 on its own instead of the FT817 for my QRP trips. I am playing now with the HF digital modes such as FreeDV, PSK31, JT65, WSPR so hopefully CAT and audio interfacing to a computer is easy. Today I use a SignaLink USB. I like the idea of getting to know one radio really well (the kx3) by using it as my primary rig on the road AND at home (maybe even in the mobile at some point). I would then save my pennies for the PX3 and even a KX2 for lighter travels at some point. Is it safe to assume i won't be loosing any performance by making this chance and even gain some? Hopefully no trolls on this group. Thanks, Ve3bwp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Remote operation and P3?
I've really grown accustomed to the P3 and would hate to be without it. I've also started to look at remote operation for the eventual downsizing that will occur as we get older. Is there a way to get the P3 or its functionality while operating the K3s remotely with any of the Elecraft solutions? Thanks jim ab3cv __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
On Mon,9/12/2016 6:58 AM, Matt Zilmer wrote: This is also an excellent source of mobile installation knowledge:* http://www.k0bg.com/ * And also some misinformation. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX2 PS
I also have and recommend the Pro Audio Engineering PS, along with the "Y" cable to power the KX3 if needed. 73 Ken - K0PP On Sep 12, 2016 10:06 AM, "Ray Sills" wrote: > Hi Dick: > > That looks like a reasonable unit, but personally, I would rather have the > Pro Audio Engineering PAE-KX33… which is a known “quiet” switching supply, > with the proper power plug. Yes, it’s more expensive, but I’d just as soon > spend that extra money, as opposed to trying to quiet down a noisy supply. > > And it helps support a ham businessman. The KX33 is good for more power, > BTW… it’ll run a KX3 at 15 watts… so a KX2 is easily powered. > > 73 de Ray > K2ULR > KX3 #211 > > > > On Sep 12, 2016, at 10:15 AM, wn3r...@gmail.com wrote: > > > > http://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-ps-sp1- > 12-vdc-3a-ac-power-adapter-with-21-x-55mm-plug--320-312? > utm_source=Retail&utm_medium=Email_Newsletter&utm_content= > 320-312&utm_campaign=email091216 > > > > 73, Dick, WN3R > > > > Richard > > 202.497.2840 > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to raysil...@verizon.net > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to kengk...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX2 PS
Hi Dick: That looks like a reasonable unit, but personally, I would rather have the Pro Audio Engineering PAE-KX33… which is a known “quiet” switching supply, with the proper power plug. Yes, it’s more expensive, but I’d just as soon spend that extra money, as opposed to trying to quiet down a noisy supply. And it helps support a ham businessman. The KX33 is good for more power, BTW… it’ll run a KX3 at 15 watts… so a KX2 is easily powered. 73 de Ray K2ULR KX3 #211 > On Sep 12, 2016, at 10:15 AM, wn3r...@gmail.com wrote: > > http://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-ps-sp1-12-vdc-3a-ac-power-adapter-with-21-x-55mm-plug--320-312?utm_source=Retail&utm_medium=Email_Newsletter&utm_content=320-312&utm_campaign=email091216 > > 73, Dick, WN3R > > Richard > 202.497.2840 > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to raysil...@verizon.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
This is the "sneak path" through a grounding system, and must always be considered. Although this thread is directed at mobile installations, it applies equally to home station installations. If you have a driven ground rod that is not connected with heavy wire to the utility entry ground rod, similar situations exist and can be a safety hazard. Connect all grounds together unless they are 100 feet or more apart - it is a requirement of electrical codes. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 10:01 AM, Fred Moore wrote: So what had happened.. This was a case where the radio was wired directly to the battery, with fuses in both the positive and negative leads. The fuse in the negative lead was indeed blown (unknown reason). The ground path to the radio was up the coax shield to the masthead antenna, this antenna was DC grounded flowed then down the mast to the ground plate. This connection raised the ground potential in reference to all other grounds 1.75 volts.. and was the cause of all of the problems. Properly grounding the radio ground to the ground plate permanently resolved the issue.. This was a case of small currents (radio in receive), however should a starter have been involved as Tom (W8JI) explains the currents would have been great and could easily have caused a fire. My point is where ground connections are made can have consequences.. Regards.. Fred __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX2 PS
http://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-ps-sp1-12-vdc-3a-ac-power-adapter-with-21-x-55mm-plug--320-312?utm_source=Retail&utm_medium=Email_Newsletter&utm_content=320-312&utm_campaign=email091216 73, Dick, WN3R Richard 202.497.2840 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
**This is also an excellent source of mobile installation knowledge:* http://www.k0bg.com/ * *Note that in the mobile guide, the chassis ground was the method a Honda tech recommended. I could have run an additional 8 AWG and fused it, but there was no reason to do so. Another hint is that the older Motorola 100W FM transceivers (Syntor, Micor, etc.) use a single short black lead with a large ring lug and no fuse, meant to be bolted to chassis ground. * *73,* *Matt W6NIA* On 9/12/2016 6:43 AM, Fred Moore wrote: Brian, if you run the negative lead all the way to the battery (direct) fuse the lead close to the battery. If you run the negative lead to point that ends in a frame ground do not fuse the negative lead. This does not conflict with standard automotive manufacture recommendations. Also carefully read almost all manufactures installations it says run the leads to the battery, and they provide two fuses on in the positive and negative lead. I have not seen an installation manual in years that didn't say directly to the battery.. Tom W8JI has some good explanations on they why's and how this came to be http://www.w8ji.com/mobile_ground.htm Regards.. Fred On 9/12/16 9:03 AM, brian wrote: Don, Perhaps you can clear up an issue. The link below does not include fuses in the ground side. I thought there were some very good reasons to do so. 73 de Brian/K3KO On 9/12/2016 12:50 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Wayne, Take a look at http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev-B1-1.6-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 8:24 AM, Wayne Michael wrote: I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along with the FTM-400? Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? Thanks, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to als...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to f...@fmeco.com -- Always store beer in a dark place. - R. Heinlein Matt Zilmer, W6NIA [Shiraz] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
I will add to the conversation with a direct story relating to radio grounds, in this case it was a sail boat... At one time I spent much of my life Surveying boats, another survey friend asked me to look at his sailboat as he could not keep zinc's on the boat they would last about a month.. An arriving throwing a silver anode over the side (in salt water) showed about 1.75 volts between the water and his ground. So that is why the zinc's were plating off of the boat. All grounds on the boat lead to a grounding plate at the foot of the mast (42 foot). As I was disconnecting each ground wire on the grounding plate, suddenly the ground went away, and Lee said "the VHF radio went dead", it was on as he was listening to the weather. So what had happened.. This was a case where the radio was wired directly to the battery, with fuses in both the positive and negative leads. The fuse in the negative lead was indeed blown (unknown reason). The ground path to the radio was up the coax shield to the masthead antenna, this antenna was DC grounded flowed then down the mast to the ground plate. This connection raised the ground potential in reference to all other grounds 1.75 volts.. and was the cause of all of the problems. Properly grounding the radio ground to the ground plate permanently resolved the issue.. This was a case of small currents (radio in receive), however should a starter have been involved as Tom (W8JI) explains the currents would have been great and could easily have caused a fire. My point is where ground connections are made can have consequences.. Regards.. Fred On 9/12/16 9:34 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Brian, > > There is a lot of controversy over fuses in the ground lead. > The reason for them dates way back to days when the battery to engine > ground strap would commonly corrode or break. IMHO, that was more > common in automotive designs of the 1940s through 1980s vehicles when > it was a piece of uninsulated braid. I believe that connection is > much more reliable in modern vehicles and better protected from > exposure to the elements. > > The reasoning behind putting a fuse in the negative lead is that it > will protect the radio from having current from the starter current be > routed over the radio's ground wire paths should the battery to engine > ground strap be faulty. > > BUT, there are other paths to ground that can go through the radio > even if the fuse in the negative lead goes open - consider that the > antenna coax shield is also connected to the vehicle body and provides > yet another ground path. > > IMHO, fusing the ground lead is not necessary in modern vehicle > installations. In fact I recall W8JI insisting that the radio ground > be obtained from the chassis of the vehicle instead of routing the > ground wire all the way to the battery. That solution eliminates the > problem path. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > > On 9/12/2016 9:03 AM, brian wrote: >> Don, >> >> Perhaps you can clear up an issue. >> The link below does not include fuses in the ground side. >> I thought there were some very good reasons to do so. >> >> 73 de Brian/K3KO >> >> On 9/12/2016 12:50 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >>> Wayne, >>> >>> Take a look at >>> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev-B1-1.6-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> On 9/12/2016 8:24 AM, Wayne Michael wrote: I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along with the FTM-400? Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? Thanks, >>> >>> __ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> Message delivered to als...@comcast.net >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to donw...@embarqmail.com >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to f...@fmeco.com > -- Fred Moore email: f...@fmeco.com f...@safes.com phone: 321-217-8699 _
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
Brian, if you run the negative lead all the way to the battery (direct) fuse the lead close to the battery. If you run the negative lead to point that ends in a frame ground do not fuse the negative lead. This does not conflict with standard automotive manufacture recommendations. Also carefully read almost all manufactures installations it says run the leads to the battery, and they provide two fuses on in the positive and negative lead. I have not seen an installation manual in years that didn't say directly to the battery.. Tom W8JI has some good explanations on they why's and how this came to be http://www.w8ji.com/mobile_ground.htm Regards.. Fred On 9/12/16 9:03 AM, brian wrote: > Don, > > Perhaps you can clear up an issue. > The link below does not include fuses in the ground side. > I thought there were some very good reasons to do so. > > 73 de Brian/K3KO > > On 9/12/2016 12:50 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >> Wayne, >> >> Take a look at >> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev-B1-1.6-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> On 9/12/2016 8:24 AM, Wayne Michael wrote: >>> I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. >>> I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. >>> Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along >>> with the FTM-400? >>> Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? >>> Thanks, >>> >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to als...@comcast.net > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to f...@fmeco.com > -- Fred Moore email: f...@fmeco.com f...@safes.com phone: 321-217-8699 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
Brian, There is a lot of controversy over fuses in the ground lead. The reason for them dates way back to days when the battery to engine ground strap would commonly corrode or break. IMHO, that was more common in automotive designs of the 1940s through 1980s vehicles when it was a piece of uninsulated braid. I believe that connection is much more reliable in modern vehicles and better protected from exposure to the elements. The reasoning behind putting a fuse in the negative lead is that it will protect the radio from having current from the starter current be routed over the radio's ground wire paths should the battery to engine ground strap be faulty. BUT, there are other paths to ground that can go through the radio even if the fuse in the negative lead goes open - consider that the antenna coax shield is also connected to the vehicle body and provides yet another ground path. IMHO, fusing the ground lead is not necessary in modern vehicle installations. In fact I recall W8JI insisting that the radio ground be obtained from the chassis of the vehicle instead of routing the ground wire all the way to the battery. That solution eliminates the problem path. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 9:03 AM, brian wrote: Don, Perhaps you can clear up an issue. The link below does not include fuses in the ground side. I thought there were some very good reasons to do so. 73 de Brian/K3KO On 9/12/2016 12:50 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Wayne, Take a look at http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev-B1-1.6-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 8:24 AM, Wayne Michael wrote: I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along with the FTM-400? Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? Thanks, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to als...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to donw...@embarqmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
Don, Perhaps you can clear up an issue. The link below does not include fuses in the ground side. I thought there were some very good reasons to do so. 73 de Brian/K3KO On 9/12/2016 12:50 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Wayne, Take a look at http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev-B1-1.6-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 8:24 AM, Wayne Michael wrote: I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along with the FTM-400? Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? Thanks, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to als...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
Wayne, Take a look at http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev-B1-1.6-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/12/2016 8:24 AM, Wayne Michael wrote: I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along with the FTM-400? Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? Thanks, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
I have a 2012 Kia Sedona minivan. I currently have a FTM-400 mounted using a seat mount. Any ideas what mounts might be available to put a KX3 in the van along with the FTM-400? Anyone have experience with the KX3 mobile in a car? Worth the effort? Thanks, Wayne AC9HP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Did anybody test any universal USB / 12V lithium battery pack for KX3?
I had exactly the same problem with a car battery unable to maintain >12v. The 15AH battery at this link was an excellent solution: https://www.bioennopower.com/collections/12v-series-lifepo4-batteries/products/12v-15ah-lfp-battery-blue-w-pvc-pack It is pricy but provided 12.9 volts @ 200ma receive and 12.3 volts @1900ma xmt for 5 weeks at about 1 hour of use a day. The radio ran at 10 watts the whole time. I bought the charger with the battery and recharged prior to a transmit voltage drop below 12vdc. /Dave K1BZ === Did anybody test any any USB/12V+ battery pack in KX3 or KX2? I have a USB / 12V/8.3Ah model: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01337QXMA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Seems to be 3S3 with 11.8V peak, not bad but a bit too little for 10W operation. There are types with adjustable voltage like: https://www.amazon.com/Poweradd-23000mAh-Multi-Voltage-Portable-Notebooks/dp/B015OAJFOC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_107_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NBT8GMPAMS3QZBC6AKWY but if voltages are converted by switching then it can be quite noisy. Traditionally I use 4S2 devices from batteryspace.com but they are getting pricey and don't double as USB chargers. Ignacy, NO9E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
