Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount

[Edward R Cole]

Very timely discussion as I am installing my KX3 into a 2015 truck.

I already installed a new Alinco DR-735T.  Temporarily using a dc 
accessory plug for power and not running low RF output as the dc plug 
wiring is not large enough for the current required for 50w (dc 
outlet is clearly provided for charging cell phones or other low 
current devices).


But I bought some No. 8awg wire to run from the battery to a power 
distribution connector (which I already installed).  Per the w8ji 
article I should run the No. 8 negative wire to a chassis ground in 
proximity to the battery ground (but not directly to the battery neg terminal).


I can do that.  However the DR-735T power cord has both pos and neg 
lead fuses.  Should I eliminate the neg fuse for the radio? (and on 
all neg lines to each radio component I am installing?).  I have a 
main fuse for the pos lead that will be connected at the battery, 
plus each radio item has individual fuses on pos leads rated for 
their current draw.


Equipment location is about 12 feet from the battery (crew cab 
pickup) so that is a lot chassis for current to flow thru, so I feel 
running a dedicated neg wire to the engine compartment chassis is 
better than a short ground wire to nearby chassis (which would have 
to be on exterior of the cab as there is no exposed metal in the 
interior).  That would be subject to corrosion from exposure.  Under 
hood chassis is better protected from direct exposure to the elements 
(I live in an area  where road salt is applied in winter).


BTW I recall installing the trunk mount 50w and 100w VHF MOT radios 
that used the chassis ground wire.  Also recall installs in 24v 
ground-start heavy equipment (D8's, frontloaders, and 
roadgraders).  We installed high current steering diodes to prevent 
24v flowing thru the radio ground.


I will be mounting the KX3 at the dash of my F250 Ford using a 
combination or RAM mounts and ProClip dash bracket.  I will have 
photos and description on my website in a few days to show that.  My 
KX3 has add on heat sink which makes the exterior dimension 3/4 inch 
higher, so the std RAM mount is not able to accommodate this.  I am 
using some HB 1/8-inch thick aluminum tabs to extend the RAM mounting 
"fingers" which might be of interest to others with this predicament.


73, Ed - KL7UW



From: Fred Moore 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Brian, if you run the negative lead all the way to the battery (direct)
fuse the lead close to the battery.  If you run the negative lead to
point that ends in a frame ground do not fuse the negative lead.  This
does not conflict with standard automotive manufacture recommendations.

Also carefully read almost all manufactures installations it says run
the leads to the battery, and they provide two fuses on in the positive
and negative lead.  I have not seen an installation manual in years that
didn't say directly to the battery..

Tom W8JI has some good explanations on they why's and how this came to be

http://www.w8ji.com/mobile_ground.htm

Regards.. Fred



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!

[Edward R Cole]

I initially bought a K3/10 (10w version) in 2010, which I really like 
and is the prime radio used for eme with transverters.


But I originally had both a FT-847 (very good for VHF & UHF, but 
lousy on HF) and a FT-817 (bought primarily to use portable on 144 
with my mw equipment but also got used for satellite and local 
FM).  I never used it on HF much.


When the KX3 came out I looked it over as candidate to replace the 
FT-817.  The 2M module helped to convince me.  I now use it a lot for 
6m, finding its internal preamp makes it at least equal to the 
K3+PR6.  I also use it on HF as much as I use the K3.


My final piece of equipment is the KXPA-100 which I can use with 
either radio.  I recently used the KX3+KXPA-100 on 6m during the ARRL 
VHF Contest, while I ran my K3 with 144 and 222 transverters and 
separate amplifiers.  the KX3 sitting on 6m lets me monitor for 
openings while using the K3 doing other stuff.


Latest project is installing both KX3 and KXPA-100 wiring into my new 
F250 Ford truck.  Install is designed for rapid install or removal of 
the equipment with permanent wiring in the truck.  Normally still use 
both in the shack.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Trump's a bigot - Hillary's a crook!!

[Charles R.Tropp via Elecraft]

Hi Russ,
I am not sure what problem you perceive in the failure of the SP3 to amplify 
it's signal allowing you to individually change it's volume setting. As some 
say, "this is a feature - not a bug" as it prevents possible RFI interference 
from a nearby transmitted signal. Volume on the K3 is controlled by the AF 
knob. Is this not all you need? I mostly work CW and use my headphones for that 
purpose. But sometimes, I am doing something else and would rather just listen 
to the speaker. I rarely adjust he AF knob and yet, I can hear CW throughout 
the house when the speaker is on. I use my K Pod to instantly switch between 
headphones only or headphones and speaker. All this is controlled by the  
configuration menu settings.  I think you will enjoy the SP3 Russ, and if you 
buy two you can have stereo!
 73, Charles N2SO
Treasurer, Quarter Century Wireless Association, Inc. http://QCWA.org 

On Monday, September 12, 2016 9:17 PM, Russ  wrote:
 

 Now that I have your attention - off topic subjects get the most airtime it 
seems

Here is an on-topic question - thanks!!


I currently feed a powered speaker with the constant line output of my K3. I 
can individually adjust that speaker's volume locally and the HP volume on the 
K3.

I'm contemplating the purchase of an SP-3.  As this speaker is unpowered, I 
will have to use the K3 power amp and am afraid that I will lose the individual 
volume control versatility I have.

If this is the case - would it be possible to repurpose the sub-rx (I don't 
have one) AF gain "ring" to control the speaker amp level.  My understanding is 
that the speaker out and HP out's are fed by separate DAC's.

Thanks, Russ KD4JO
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount

[Don Wilhelm]

Ed,

Yes, eliminate the fuse in the negative wire and ground it to the 
chassis near the point where the battery negative is grounded.


Consider that the radio will also be grounded by the connection of the 
coax shield to the chassis.  If the negative power lead is fused and 
that fuse opens, current can still flow to the radio, but by a very 
circuitous path and that is not 'goodness' .


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2016 3:54 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
But I bought some No. 8awg wire to run from the battery to a power 
distribution connector (which I already installed).  Per the w8ji 
article I should run the No. 8 negative wire to a chassis ground in 
proximity to the battery ground (but not directly to the battery neg 
terminal).


I can do that.  However the DR-735T power cord has both pos and neg 
lead fuses.  Should I eliminate the neg fuse for the radio? (and on 
all neg lines to each radio component I am installing?). I have a main 
fuse for the pos lead that will be connected at the battery, plus each 
radio item has individual fuses on pos leads rated for their current 
draw.


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[Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody 
out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than 
the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come 
loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for 
the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections 
when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I 
would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Clay Autery]

I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
pretty much a cabling/connector freak.

I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
becoming more common/standard as time passes.

Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.

If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.

And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
> non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody 
> out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than 
> the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come 
> loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for 
> the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections 
> when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? 
> I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
>
> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> r.trist...@gmail.com 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Independent headphone and speaker volume

[Russ]

All:

I understand the potential RFI issues and in fact have had to try different 
grounding schemes and #31 ferrites to eliminate the issue with my powered 
speaker.

Call it a personal preference but when another person is in the shack and I 
want to use headphones, it is nice to have individual control of the speaker 
and HP.

I could always add an amp to the SP3…….
I’ll just order an Elecraft knob for the pot…

Russ KD4JO

PS - Back to the original thread name ☺

From: Charles R.Tropp [mailto:charlestr...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 6:31 AM
To: Russ ; Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Trump's a bigot - Hillary's a crook!!

Hi Russ,

I am not sure what problem you perceive in the failure of the SP3 to amplify 
it's signal allowing you to individually change it's volume setting. As some 
say, "this is a feature - not a bug" as it prevents possible RFI interference 
from a nearby transmitted signal. Volume on the K3 is controlled by the AF 
knob. Is this not all you need? I mostly work CW and use my headphones for that 
purpose. But sometimes, I am doing something else and would rather just listen 
to the speaker. I rarely adjust he AF knob and yet, I can hear CW throughout 
the house when the speaker is on. I use my K Pod to instantly switch between 
headphones only or headphones and speaker. All this is controlled by the  
configuration menu settings.  I think you will enjoy the SP3 Russ, and if you 
buy two you can have stereo!


73, Charles N2SO

Treasurer, Quarter Century Wireless Association, Inc.
http://QCWA.org

On Monday, September 12, 2016 9:17 PM, Russ 
mailto:mundschen...@msn.com>> wrote:

Now that I have your attention - off topic subjects get the most airtime it 
seems

Here is an on-topic question - thanks!!


I currently feed a powered speaker with the constant line output of my K3. I 
can individually adjust that speaker's volume locally and the HP volume on the 
K3.

I'm contemplating the purchase of an SP-3.  As this speaker is unpowered, I 
will have to use the K3 power amp and am afraid that I will lose the individual 
volume control versatility I have.

If this is the case - would it be possible to repurpose the sub-rx (I don't 
have one) AF gain "ring" to control the speaker amp level.  My understanding is 
that the speaker out and HP out's are fed by separate DAC's.

Thanks, Russ KD4JO
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ken G Kopp]

Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?

Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
and have never been an issue.

73

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Detrick Merz]

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
for some people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
> and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

Ken:

Maybe there is. When my K3 arrived more than 5 years ago, it was my first 
experience with Power Poles. I actually soldered the connections inside, yet it 
is so easy to pull them and separate them from the radio that scares me always 
thinking that the connection is not solid. Tell me, how do you manage to pull 
the cable, radio and all, without disconnecting the power poles? Please share.

Ramon


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 09:20, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
> 
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
> and have never been an issue.
> 
> 73
> 
> Ken - K0PP
> 

Ramón E. Tristani Sr.
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Don Wilhelm]

One of the reasons some have trouble with APP connectors is that they 
have not been properly assembled.
If you look at the end of an APP and can see the spring finger as well 
as the contact blade, it has not been properly assembled.  Give the 
contact blade a push from the wire side until the contact blade locks 
over the spring finger.
If it will not lock, there may be solder on the contact blade preventing 
it from being fully inserted - remove the contact blade and either cut 
off the solder with a sharp knife or replace the contact blade.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2016 9:29 AM, Detrick Merz wrote:

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
for some people, and so unreliable for others.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

Don:

Thanks. I will inspect the connector carefully and if necessary I will replace 
it. Thanks to all for the good advice.

Ramon


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 09:41, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> One of the reasons some have trouble with APP connectors is that they have 
> not been properly assembled.
> If you look at the end of an APP and can see the spring finger as well as the 
> contact blade, it has not been properly assembled.  Give the contact blade a 
> push from the wire side until the contact blade locks over the spring finger.
> If it will not lock, there may be solder on the contact blade preventing it 
> from being fully inserted - remove the contact blade and either cut off the 
> solder with a sharp knife or replace the contact blade.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 9/13/2016 9:29 AM, Detrick Merz wrote:
>> I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
>> cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
>> to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
>> for some people, and so unreliable for others.
>> 
>> 
> 
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Ramón E. Tristani Sr.
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Bob Novas]

I have assembled power poles incorrectly and noticed that they didn't "stick".  
However, when I assemble them correctly, they stick great and like Ken and 
Detrick said, I can drag my K3S around by the power cord.  You have to be 
really careful to assemble them with the correct orientation of the metal 
insert to the plastic case. I crimp the metal insert to the wire - this results 
in a good gas-tight seal with no excess. The insert has to go all the way into 
the housing.  Again, if you assemble them correctly, they work great. If you 
don't assemble them properly, they do not work well at all.  Bob - W3DK


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount

[Michael Dinkelman via Elecraft]

My KX3 mount in a 2008 Tacoma
7th District QSO Party 2016 with KX3

The Amp is on the hump in the back Access cab portion.
  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
7th District QSO Party 2016 with KX3
 19 new photos added to shared album  |   |

  |

  |

 


  From: Edward R Cole 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 12:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
   
Very timely discussion as I am installing my KX3 into a 2015 truck.

I already installed a new Alinco DR-735T.  Temporarily using a dc 
accessory plug for power and not running low RF output as the dc plug 
wiring is not large enough for the current required for 50w (dc 
outlet is clearly provided for charging cell phones or other low 
current devices).

But I bought some No. 8awg wire to run from the battery to a power 
distribution connector (which I already installed).  Per the w8ji 
article I should run the No. 8 negative wire to a chassis ground in 
proximity to the battery ground (but not directly to the battery neg terminal).

I can do that.  However the DR-735T power cord has both pos and neg 
lead fuses.  Should I eliminate the neg fuse for the radio? (and on 
all neg lines to each radio component I am installing?).  I have a 
main fuse for the pos lead that will be connected at the battery, 
plus each radio item has individual fuses on pos leads rated for 
their current draw.

Equipment location is about 12 feet from the battery (crew cab 
pickup) so that is a lot chassis for current to flow thru, so I feel 
running a dedicated neg wire to the engine compartment chassis is 
better than a short ground wire to nearby chassis (which would have 
to be on exterior of the cab as there is no exposed metal in the 
interior).  That would be subject to corrosion from exposure.  Under 
hood chassis is better protected from direct exposure to the elements 
(I live in an area  where road salt is applied in winter).

BTW I recall installing the trunk mount 50w and 100w VHF MOT radios 
that used the chassis ground wire.  Also recall installs in 24v 
ground-start heavy equipment (D8's, frontloaders, and 
roadgraders).  We installed high current steering diodes to prevent 
24v flowing thru the radio ground.

I will be mounting the KX3 at the dash of my F250 Ford using a 
combination or RAM mounts and ProClip dash bracket.  I will have 
photos and description on my website in a few days to show that.  My 
KX3 has add on heat sink which makes the exterior dimension 3/4 inch 
higher, so the std RAM mount is not able to accommodate this.  I am 
using some HB 1/8-inch thick aluminum tabs to extend the RAM mounting 
"fingers" which might be of interest to others with this predicament.

73, Ed - KL7UW



From: Fred Moore 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Vehicle mount
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Brian, if you run the negative lead all the way to the battery (direct)
fuse the lead close to the battery.  If you run the negative lead to
point that ends in a frame ground do not fuse the negative lead.  This
does not conflict with standard automotive manufacture recommendations.

Also carefully read almost all manufactures installations it says run
the leads to the battery, and they provide two fuses on in the positive
and negative lead.  I have not seen an installation manual in years that
didn't say directly to the battery..

Tom W8JI has some good explanations on they why's and how this came to be

http://www.w8ji.com/mobile_ground.htm

Regards.. Fred



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
    "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
    dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Dave Cole]

On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 09:29 -0400, Detrick Merz wrote:
> For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've
> soldered a few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue,
> or anything other than the natural friction to hold the black/red
> housings in a pair.

As a totally off topic comment, you can save yourself a few cents if you
use the stick on a Q-Tip for a roll pin.  It fits perfectly, and you can
remove it easily as well.  

I keep a few Q-Tips in my Power Pole box, and just cut off the cotton
ends, and then push the stick in, where the roll pin goes.  Then much
like a coax connector center pin, I cut off the excess.  Keeps the
connectors together, and is removable later.

I also never solder my power poles, for fear of creating a really small
radius bend point.

-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

I was able to remove both power pole connectors from the power supply cable. 
Added more tension to the “tongue”, lifted the spring a little bit and the 
connectors “clicked” as before. They are a bit more secure now, not as strong 
as a solid power connector like the old Kenwood or Icoms ( I say “old” because 
I have not seen the new ones for years, being Elecraft-only) but the voltage on 
the K3 holds steady during the transmit cycle, meaning (to me) that the 
connection is good enough. I still cannot pull the radio around from the power 
supply cable, not that I want to anyway. So, thank you all for the 
recommendations and help. I have always counted on Elecraft and this mail list 
and always found the needed assistance and guidance. It is good to be part of 
the “family”.

73,
Ramon, NQ9V


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 10:34, Dave Cole  wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 09:29 -0400, Detrick Merz wrote:
>> For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've
>> soldered a few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue,
>> or anything other than the natural friction to hold the black/red
>> housings in a pair.
> 
> As a totally off topic comment, you can save yourself a few cents if you
> use the stick on a Q-Tip for a roll pin.  It fits perfectly, and you can
> remove it easily as well.  
> 
> I keep a few Q-Tips in my Power Pole box, and just cut off the cotton
> ends, and then push the stick in, where the roll pin goes.  Then much
> like a coax connector center pin, I cut off the excess.  Keeps the
> connectors together, and is removable later.
> 
> I also never solder my power poles, for fear of creating a really small
> radius bend point.
> 
> -- 
> 73's, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> For software/hardware reviews see:
> http://www.nk7z.net
> 
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Ramón E. Tristani Sr.
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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[Elecraft] Remote AC power switch?

[Jim Miller]

For those of you implementing remote operation: what are you using for an
IP accessed power switch? I need one port to control station A/C power and
another to toggle the K3s power control line on the ACC connector.

Since I plan on using Teamviewer to control this I could also use a USB
controlled switch instead.

Suggestions welcome.

Thanks

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[dmoes]

‎Everyone has their ways.  Here is my two cents. Everything 12V in my shack 
including lighting is APP

NEVER SOLDER. To many possible issues including that the solder flows so well 
on those pins its almost impossible to keep it off the contact surface. Also 
the wire break off easier 

Second. For years I used a crimp tool I had. Not really purpose made but seemed 
OK and folded in the split the way it is intended and had good luck. A few 
months back when I was doing some changes I borrowed someone's fancy ratcheting 
Andy crimp tool made for APP. Wow. What a difference. the crimps where way 
better and easy to get them right.  ‎ I since bought my own. It was worth it.  

To keep the black and red body sets together I don't pin. But touch one spot on 
the joint with a solder iron melting a small bit of the plastic and bonding 
them together.  ‎ I have never needed to do anything to keep mated connector 
pairs together.  

The current capacity in my experience is at least if not better than 
advertised.    I have never had any sign of heating even when running many 
things at the same time including lights rigs and accessories al through APPs 
even at the power supply. (single set there too)

  Original Message  
From: Ramon Tristani
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:53 AM
To: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody 
out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than 
the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come 
loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for 
the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections 
when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I 
would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote AC power switch?

[Barry Baines]

Jim:

The problem with Teamviewer is that if the PC at the ham station hangs up, 
you’ve lost control.

I suggest taking a look at using the West Mountain Radio R4005i which provides 
five ports for powering equipment (each with its own ’soft fuse’) and is TCP/IP 
accessible through a web browser.  I use three of these at my ham location in 
Georgia to control various devices, including powering on/off Flex Radios. My 
K3 is controlled through Remote Rig and a K3/0-Mini. 

See:  http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=rr_4005i 

West Mountain Radio also offers a  ‘PWR AC Controller’ that can power 120VAC 
devices (up to 15A) using the 12 VDC from the 4005i to turn on/off power to the 
AC device.

See: http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=pwr_ac

Thus, I can control both DC and AC devices without issues.  The web interface 
can be remotely accessed (through port forwarding);  one can define the HTTP 
port as well as the TCP/IP local address, as well as define a login name and 
password for each R4005i.  Since the 4005i is web-accessible, I can access each 
4005i independently via web browser on a PC/Mac, tablet, or smart phone as well 
as reconfigure the 4005i as necessary.  

Hope this helps,

Barry, WD4ASW
Westborough, MA

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 11:04 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> 
> For those of you implementing remote operation: what are you using for an
> IP accessed power switch? I need one port to control station A/C power and
> another to toggle the K3s power control line on the ACC connector.
> 
> Since I plan on using Teamviewer to control this I could also use a USB
> controlled switch instead.
> 
> Suggestions welcome.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jump starter system for K3 portable power?

[Richard Fjeld]

Rick,
I don't know if you will find something that meets all your 
requirements. Perhaps you will need to modify something that has the 
hardware you want.

In my limited exposure to jump starters, I have found that the data is 
sometimes vague. I have had the same brand be both good, and sorry.  I 
have also found unusual sized gel-cells within. So I want to consider 
battery replacement.

There are 'boat' batteries that are a compromise for both deep cycle and 
starting.  They come with some weight, and charging considerations.

I will be interested in the replies you receive.

Dick, n0ce


On 9/12/2016 7:49 PM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
> I'm looking for one of those hand carried jump starter/ portable power units 
> for occasional field use for my K3 plus the rare car jump start in a pinch.

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jump starter system for K3 portable power?

[Ramon Tristani]

I bought one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-portable-power-pack-with-jump-start-62747.html
 


Seems to be more than enough to fill up tires, drive AC power tools and feed 
some 12 volt equipment within its ratings. I don’t know if this is exactly what 
you want or need but for its purpose it has worked just fine for me.

Ramon, NQ9V


> On Sep 12, 2016, at 20:49, rick jones via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for one of those hand carried jump starter/ portable power units 
> for occasional field use for my K3 plus the rare car jump start in a pinch. 
> Ultimately I would like it to have a replaceable battery, real three state 
> charger that allows it to be plugged in at all times, high current output 
> lugs (not just 12v jack), built in jumper cables, light enough to carry short 
> distances, made in USA! OK that's a tall order! Do you know of a brand and 
> model that covers many or most of these requirements? MOST of the dozens on 
> Amazon do not appear to have the quality I prefer and are throw away, 
> consumer grade units. I do like the looks of the Schumacher ProSeries 
> chargers (22 amp hours or so). If I fail in my quest I'll consider a West 
> Mountain Radio setup that I can lug out to the car if necessary for field 
> use, camping, jump starting etc.. The up side is that Power Poles are 
> standard! PS: I am aware of the amp-hours vs. power output vs. operating time 
> vs. weight aspect of making a selection. I believe not getting a hernia will 
> ultimately define the capacity of whichever unit I choose! Thanks for reading!
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Ramón E. Tristani Sr.
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote AC power switch?

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 8:04 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> For those of you implementing remote operation: what are you using for an
> IP accessed power switch? I need one port to control station A/C power and
> another to toggle the K3s power control line on the ACC connector.

I use an old ("telnet" interface) WTI Network Power Switch that I
rescued from a recycle pile. Digital Loggers Inc make a
good/inexpensive "Web Power Switch".

For powering-on the K3 via ACC pin 8, I use a RS232 port on an onsite
PC, with the same simple circuit used for FSK keying.

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote AC power switch?

[Michael Walker]

I bought a pile of these at $20 US each.

http://www.digital-loggers.com/iot.html

I drive them with PI's or just about anything.  It takes any logic from +3V
to 120Vac to control them.

I found that all the other options are great, but very very expensive for
what they are.

Mike va3mw


On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 12:38 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML 
wrote:

> On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 8:04 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> > For those of you implementing remote operation: what are you using for an
> > IP accessed power switch? I need one port to control station A/C power
> and
> > another to toggle the K3s power control line on the ACC connector.
>
> I use an old ("telnet" interface) WTI Network Power Switch that I
> rescued from a recycle pile. Digital Loggers Inc make a
> good/inexpensive "Web Power Switch".
>
> For powering-on the K3 via ACC pin 8, I use a RS232 port on an onsite
> PC, with the same simple circuit used for FSK keying.
>
> 73,
>
> ~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[John Pitz]

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I
have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do
manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something
really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.

KD8CIV


On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:

> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
> 
> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
> 
> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
> 
> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
> 
> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> > The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
> > non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
> > anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
> > connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
> > connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
> > the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
> > strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
> > Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
> > Thank you all.
> >
> > Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> > r.trist...@gmail.com 
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
> > https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
> > 
> 
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[Elecraft] WSJT-X and K3S Tx

[MaverickNH]

Working to get WSJT 1.7 alpha running with my K3S. I saw some other posts but
found no solution. I can Rx just fine, just cannot Tx. Pressing TUNE on the
K3S gives Red TX LED and obvious Tx evidence from display with ATU TUNE
enabled.

Settings:Radio are Rig Elecraft K3/KX3, COM 7 (correct for my rig), Baud
Rtae 38400, Data Bits 8, Stop Bit 2, Handshake None, DTR/RTS blank, PTT
Method CAT, Mode USB, Split Operation Fake-it, Poll Interval 1s.

Band Hopping enabled, with CAT working fine it seems. The Settings: Radio
tab give a Green CAT and Red PTT when tested. But no sign of power out, even
though TX LED lights on K3S. MIC is adjusted to 23 such that USB voice gives
ALC to 4 with occasional spikes to 5. Increasing MIC while WSJT-X is TX'ing
doesn't budge ALC.

I must be overlooking some K3S setting (as usual). Appreciate some help!

Thanks, 73s,

Bret/N2SRN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Nr4c]

You must place the terminal into the guide with the flaps up. I use tweezers to 
rotate it a few degrees clockwise so that the upper dies will not catch the 
left flap as it closes. Now insert the stripped wire till it stops and crimp.  
Should work every time. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 12:49 PM, John Pitz  wrote:
> 
> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
> remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
> similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
> crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I
> have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
> extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do
> manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
> push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
> cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something
> really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
> always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
> 
> KD8CIV
> 
> 
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>> 
>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>> 
>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>> 
>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>> 
>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>> 
>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
>>> non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
>>> anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
>>> connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
>>> connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
>>> the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
>>> strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
>>> Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
>>> Thank you all.
>>> 
>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>> r.trist...@gmail.com 
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Bill]

If there isn't a solid click which putting the wire connectors into the
holder, the mating plugs won't stay together, at least in my experience.
Also, soldering can interfere with proper mating to the shell and both
connectors as well.

Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Detrick Merz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power cords),
but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors to stay
stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid for some
people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power 
> cable and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I believe the "click" Detrick refers to is when you insert the contacts into
the connector housing. There's a nice document on-line showing the proper
way to assemble them if you are "rolling your own" or need to check what you
have. Notice the cutaway view on page 3. It shows the spring contact in the
proper position in the housing. When inserting it in the housing you'll hear
a "click" as the spring drops into place to hold the contact. Looking at the
end of the assembled connector, you should see the contact in place covering
the spring. If it isn't in that position, the contact will slide back
reducing the surface area (and so increasing the heating and voltage drop)
until it fails to make contact at all. Also, those connectors come apart
with little or no force. 

http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Public%20Service/TrainingModules/Technical/An
derson%20powerpole.pdf


I did a quick pull test on a sample of 1 (Elecraft assembled) power cord and
my K3 rear panel pp connector using a spring gage. It requires about 4 lb
(roughly 1.8 kg) to of pull straight back on the connector to separate them.
This is a power cord and K3 that have seen lots of use. It's tight enough I
can slide the K3/100 around on the desk top by the cable if I don't jerk on
it. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 12:59 PM
To: 'Detrick Merz'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

If there isn't a solid click which putting the wire connectors into the
holder, the mating plugs won't stay together, at least in my experience.
Also, soldering can interfere with proper mating to the shell and both
connectors as well.

Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Detrick Merz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power cords),
but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors to stay
stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid for some
people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power 
> cable and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Edward R Cole]

Not going to get into pro-cons of PP but I have encountered issues 
trying to use No.10 zip cord from Powerwerx.  Not a fault of the wire 
but insulation size is too big for many connectors. Wire is great 
from them - just wish shipping was cheaper.


So I ended up using a short piece of No. 12 installed in the 
connector and splicing the No.12 to the No.10 wire.  You can use 
yellow butt splices which crimp or do as I prefer, which is doing a 
soldered lap junction covered with heat shrink.


Voltage drop in a couple inches of the smaller gauge wire is 
insignificant (probably unmeasurable) but make life easier when 
assembling high-current power cords.


BTW the old four pin mic connector remains my power connector of 
choice.  The are cheap and do not separate as they have threaded 
collar.  Use male pins in the panel receptacle and female pins in the 
plug.  I found a source of them from MCM Electronics.  That is what I 
installed as Power/PTT connector on my 2M80 2m linear amps.  Supplied 
with 4-foot of No.10 red/black zip to reduce voltage drop when drawing 15 amps.


My fancy-dancy plastic power connector failed on my DEMI transverter 
so I installed a 4-pin mic jack and plug.  Unit is working great, 
again.  Original socket melted under current load for the 50w 
transverter.  DEMI now uses something different with no issues seen 
by me with those.  The units using the black connector dated from 2010-11.


73, Ed - KL7UW


From: John Pitz 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?
=snip

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne. 

I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you might 
crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so they slide 
right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get solder on the 
terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires vertically with a vice 
to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact area. 

I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- 
all but a very few are soldered. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Pitz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I remember 
correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty similar to the 
one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip 
cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I have used these off and on 
for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract the 
pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do manage to get the 
pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the housing.  Is 
there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better 
cable to use, ideally something really flexible?  A lot of my operation is 
portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, 
etc.

KD8CIV


On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:

> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am 
> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
> 
> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and 
> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
> 
> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole 
> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
> 
> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never 
> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to 
> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
> 
> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> > The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
> > non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
> > anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
> > connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
> > connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
> > the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
> > strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
> > Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
> > Thank you all.
> >
> > Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> > r.trist...@gmail.com  
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
> > 
> > https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
> > 
> 
> __
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> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> crustac...@brig-elec.com
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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X and K3S Tx

[MaverickNH]

Vital detail omitted - I'm using WSPR-2 as the mode.



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/WSJT-X-and-K3S-Tx-tp7622439p7622443.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Macro Maker

[Nick Garner]

Hi Everyone,
I had an idea pop into my head over the weekend to put together an
application to help with the composition of macros for use with Elecraft
radios.

Here's the result:
http://pignology.net/emm

73,
Nick
N3WG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[George Kidder]

Completely agree!  Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done 
right - as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.


W3HBM


On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne.

I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you might 
crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so they slide 
right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get solder on the 
terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires vertically with a vice 
to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact area.

I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- 
all but a very few are soldered.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Pitz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I remember 
correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty similar to the 
one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip 
cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I have used these off and on 
for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract the 
pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do manage to get the 
pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the housing.  Is 
there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better 
cable to use, ideally something really flexible?  A lot of my operation is 
portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, 
etc.

KD8CIV


On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:


I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
pretty much a cabling/connector freak.

I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
becoming more common/standard as time passes.

Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.

If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.

And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody 
out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than 
the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come 
loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for 
the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections 
when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I 
would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/

https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Macro Maker

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Neat! 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nick
Garner
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 2:59 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Macro Maker

Hi Everyone,
I had an idea pop into my head over the weekend to put together an
application to help with the composition of macros for use with Elecraft
radios.

Here's the result:
http://pignology.net/emm

73,
Nick
N3WG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Jim Brown]

I've done a lot of these. The simple solution is to strip enough of the 
insulation so that the completed pin fits into the housing.


Also -- "zip cord" is a lousy choice for use in a ham station. Twisted 
pair is FAR better, because it inherently resists RF coupling.


73, Jim K9YC

On Tue,9/13/2016 2:03 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
Not going to get into pro-cons of PP but I have encountered issues 
trying to use No.10 zip cord from Powerwerx. Not a fault of the wire 
but insulation size is too big for many connectors. Wire is great from 
them - just wish shipping was cheaper. 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

Hello all:

David, K6SBA, most graciously shared the solution with me. Powerwerx (see their 
website) sells a plastic clip that ties the mating connectors together, 
preventing them from slipping apart and disconnecting. The clip can be easily 
removed if needed. I just ordered a few of the clips for my installation. Now, 
that’ a solution! Thank you again David! You made my day!

Ramon, NQ9V


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 6:08 PM, George Kidder  wrote:
> 
> Completely agree!  Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done right - 
> as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.
> 
> W3HBM
> 
> 
> On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
>> crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne.
>> 
>> I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you 
>> might crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so 
>> they slide right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get 
>> solder on the terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires 
>> vertically with a vice to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact 
>> area.
>> 
>> I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- 
>> all but a very few are soldered.
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John 
>> Pitz
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
>> 
>> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I remember 
>> correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty similar to the 
>> one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip 
>> cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I have used these off and 
>> on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
>> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract 
>> the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do manage to 
>> get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the 
>> housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord?  my crimpers?  
>> Is there better cable to use, ideally something really flexible?  A lot of 
>> my operation is portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, 
>> coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>> 
>> KD8CIV
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>> 
>>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>> 
>>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>> 
>>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>>> 
>>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>>> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>>> 
>>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>> MONTAC Enterprises
>>> (318) 518-1389
>>> 
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
 The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a 
 marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. 
 Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
 connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
 connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
 the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
 strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
 Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
 Thank you all.
 
 Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
 r.trist...@gmail.com 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/
 
 https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/
 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>>> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
>>> crustac...@brig-elec.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Al Samson]

There is a connect for ten gage wire. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 11:49 AM, John Pitz  wrote:
> 
> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
> remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
> similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
> crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I
> have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
> extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do
> manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
> push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
> cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something
> really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
> always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
> 
> KD8CIV
> 
> 
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>> 
>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>> 
>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>> 
>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>> 
>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>> 
>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
>>> non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
>>> anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
>>> connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
>>> connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
>>> the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
>>> strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
>>> Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
>>> Thank you all.
>>> 
>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>> r.trist...@gmail.com 
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Dan Violette]

And there are retention clips.  I have a couple black ones that came with
some order at one time (RigRunner I think).

https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-connector-retention-clip

Dan KI6X

--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 08:53:53 -0400
From: Ramon Tristani 
To: Elecraft Mailing List 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal,
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody
out there ?invented? or ?discovered? a more secure and strong connection
than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection
to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps
needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight
connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with
suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ram?n E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Don Wilhelm]

I need to point out that those retention clips will work fine when you 
are connecting two APP in-line connectors together, however, they cannot 
be fitted to the K3/K3S APP connector because the "retainer pin" hole is 
not accessible at the K3/K3S end.  They are fine for connecting one APP 
cable to another, but in practice, I have not found them necessary.
Properly assembled APP connectors will have a significant pullout force 
requirement.  Pay attention to those who state they can move the K3 by 
pulling on the cable - those folks have properly assembled APP connectors.


73,
Don W3FPR

If yours cannot do that, investigate the construction of your APP 
connectors.


On 9/13/2016 10:01 PM, Dan Violette wrote:

And there are retention clips.  I have a couple black ones that came with
some order at one time (RigRunner I think).



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[Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Dauer, Edward]

And imperfect assembly is a mistake easily made.  For the first year or so that 
I owned the K3 I had the problem of intermittent DC, requiring fiddling with 
the APP connectors until getting them positioned just right, only to have 
intermittent connections again whenever the rig was moved.  Then, having read 
an earlier suggestion like the one Don just made, though skeptical that I could 
possibly have assembled them incorrectly, I decided to give the blades an extra 
shove from behind.  Click.  No more problems since.

I demur from saying whether I use solder or crimp.  One can ruin friendships 
very quickly by debating matters of religion or politics.

Ted, KN1CBR

--

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 09:41:39 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
Message-ID: <284df68b-23b1-ff85-8c53-7f418059f...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

One of the reasons some have trouble with APP connectors is that they 
have not been properly assembled.
If you look at the end of an APP and can see the spring finger as well 
as the contact blade, it has not been properly assembled.  Give the 
contact blade a push from the wire side until the contact blade locks 
over the spring finger.
If it will not lock, there may be solder on the contact blade preventing 
it from being fully inserted - remove the contact blade and either cut 
off the solder with a sharp knife or replace the contact blade.

73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Jim Brown]

Sure. I buy black and white lengths of #10 stranded THHN (ordinary house 
wire) at the big box store, cut a length of each, put one end of both in 
a bench vise, the other in a drill, and twist it.  Then let it sit 
overnight to let it set in position (it will untwist some, but not 
enough to matter if you've twisted it a lot.)


73, Jim K9YC

 On Tue,9/13/2016 5:10 PM, John Pitz wrote:
I don't suppose you have a suggestion as to where I could buy flexible 
#10 wire?  The reason I chose the zip cord is because of it's flexibility.



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[Elecraft] KX2 + MH3 notes

[Bruce Nourish]

Hi folks,

I just got back from a weekend camping and hiking with my KX2. This was the
first time I took the KX2 out with the bigger CS80 soft case, and I used
the extra room mostly to carry my MH3 mic, which I kept when I sold my KX3.
I thought I'd share my experiences, as they might be useful to other
(potential) KX2 owners.

I found that the coil on the MH3's cable is sufficiently stiff as to move
the KX2 almost as soon as it's put under any tension. This forces you to
either hold down the KX2, which means you can't take notes, or hold the mic
quite close to the KX2. If you're going to arrange your operating position
to have your KX2 near your mouth anyway, I would consider one of these $5
wonders:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EQ6E9E

This will free up a bunch of room in your case, allowing you to either
downsize to the CS40, or carry a bunch of extra radials in the CS80. I'm
also going to look into making a switchable loading coil that will fit in
the CS80 and make my 29' wire tune up on 80m.

This isn't a knock on the MH3, nor on any other operating setup. It worked
great with my heavier KX3, and I'm sure there are many other setups
(mobile, in particular) where the MH3 would be the ideal mic for the KX2.
For KX2 portable, though, I'd probably try something else.

Bruce
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

I see the recurring APP thread has once again raised its head and has again 
been beaten to death..  :-) 

Let's end the thread at this time, due to the very large number of posts on 
this topic, and the fact that exactly the same info is available in the 
archives from multiple past threads.

Must be a slow dx day!

73,
Eric
Moderator etc.
elecraft.com
_..._

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 8:13 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> Sure. I buy black and white lengths of #10 stranded THHN (ordinary house 
> wire) at the big box store, cut a length of each, put one end of both in a 
> bench vise, the other in a drill, and twist it.  Then let it sit overnight to 
> let it set in position (it will untwist some, but not enough to matter if 
> you've twisted it a lot.)
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X and K3S Tx

[Nr4c]

Procedure should be same. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 5:42 PM, MaverickNH  wrote:
> 
> Vital detail omitted - I'm using WSPR-2 as the mode.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/WSJT-X-and-K3S-Tx-tp7622439p7622443.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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