[Elecraft] KX3 Problem

2017-01-01 Thread Peter Alterman
I just finished putting together a KX3 with the ATU option.  In Menu, I put ATU 
MD to Auto. "ATU" shows up on display. Pressing the ATU TUNE button gives the 
message, "NO ATU."

Unit receives just fine and transmits just fine.  Not sure what's wrong or how 
to get the KX3 to recognize the ATU. I'd appreciate your advice.

thanks in advance and HNY,

Peter W2CDO
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Re: [Elecraft] Please do a KPA1500

2017-01-01 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


On 12/31/2016 11:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

Audio processing can create distortion only in the passband of the
crystal filters.


Not in the case of Yaesu and Icom (at least).  Both use ALC circuits
with excess gain which activate after the PA is driven into saturation.
The excess gain also drives the IF and driver stages into saturation.
Since the "roofing filter" (on rigs like the FT-1000 or IC-756 series)
is a relatively broad VHF filter, that distortion, clipping and splatter 
is not limited to the audio bandwidth and easily extends to

25 KHz or more.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

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[Elecraft] So glad I asked

2017-01-01 Thread Bill
When I posted about the gain levels of amplifiers etc. I was worried 
about a back lash and hate mail - I nearly did not post my 
statement/question. So glad I did! What a treasure trove of information 
resulted. Really makes belonging to this group well worth while! Whether 
you are a QRPer, DXer, QROer, or just an arm chair op - there is sure 
something here for everyone.


And - most important - thanks Elecraft for building the incredible rigs 
we are using.


HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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[Elecraft] Fldigi - K3 connection

2017-01-01 Thread George Kidder

Hi gang,
I am running fldigi with my K3, and everything works as indicated in the 
manual.  It would be useful if fldigi was able to poll the K3 for mode 
information, and set itself accordingly.  I suspect that a modification 
of the K3.xml file might accomplish this, but I don't know enough about 
the programming to see where.


Has anyone succeeded in getting mode information from the K3 to fldigi?

Thanks,
George, W3HBM

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Re: [Elecraft] Fldigi - K3 connection

2017-01-01 Thread Brian Waterworth
Yes, I have had success with my KX3 and FlDigi by modifying the rig xml for
the K3 as a starting point.  Here is the howto:
http://www.w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp/rig_xml_page.html

It took me a little longer to figure out the xml file's relationships, but
this howto didn't exist then.

Once you see the linkages among the various XML elements, you will be
changing the k3.xml file with ease.

Have fun !!

regards,
Brian
VE3IBW / CG3IBW
Canada's Sesquicentennial (https://wp.rac.ca/special-event-canada150/)


On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 10:02 AM, George Kidder  wrote:

> Hi gang,
> I am running fldigi with my K3, and everything works as indicated in the
> manual.  It would be useful if fldigi was able to poll the K3 for mode
> information, and set itself accordingly.  I suspect that a modification of
> the K3.xml file might accomplish this, but I don't know enough about the
> programming to see where.
>
> Has anyone succeeded in getting mode information from the K3 to fldigi?
>
> Thanks,
> George, W3HBM
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fldigi - K3 connection

2017-01-01 Thread Matt Zilmer

Hi George,

Do you mean DATA/USB/CW/etc. mode information, or something else?  I 
have fldigi 3.22 displaying DATA mode during normal operation, using 
Rigcat and K3.XML as the rig control template.  Are you saying you can't 
see a mode change after accessing the drop-down (next to the main 
frequency readout)?  You should be able to see mode and filter, and you 
should be able to change them.


73,

matt W6NIA


On 1/1/2017 7:02 AM, George Kidder wrote:

Hi gang,
I am running fldigi with my K3, and everything works as indicated in 
the manual.  It would be useful if fldigi was able to poll the K3 for 
mode information, and set itself accordingly.  I suspect that a 
modification of the K3.xml file might accomplish this, but I don't 
know enough about the programming to see where.


Has anyone succeeded in getting mode information from the K3 to fldigi?

Thanks,
George, W3HBM

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--
Always store beer in a dark place.  - R. Heinlein

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Problem

2017-01-01 Thread Bob N3MNT
Turn it off and back on.




--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Problem-tp7625305p7625311.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Fldigi - K3 connection

2017-01-01 Thread George Kidder

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the reply.  I had found that "howto" file, but can't make 
much sense of it.  The current K3.xml file relays changes between the 
rig and the two little blue boxes under the frequency display, but these 
changes are not reflected in the fldigi operate mode, nor do changes in 
the op mode result in changes in the K3. Nor do the changes in these 
little boxes get reflected in the log entry, which is very annoying.


So do your modifications correct these problems?  If so, could I have a 
copy of it.


73 and Happy New Year,

George


On 1/1/2017 10:37 AM, Brian Waterworth wrote:

Yes, I have had success with my KX3 and FlDigi by modifying the rig xml for
the K3 as a starting point.  Here is the howto:
http://www.w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp/rig_xml_page.html

It took me a little longer to figure out the xml file's relationships, but
this howto didn't exist then.

Once you see the linkages among the various XML elements, you will be
changing the k3.xml file with ease.

Have fun !!

regards,
Brian
VE3IBW / CG3IBW
Canada's Sesquicentennial (https://wp.rac.ca/special-event-canada150/)


On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 10:02 AM, George Kidder  wrote:


Hi gang,
I am running fldigi with my K3, and everything works as indicated in the
manual.  It would be useful if fldigi was able to poll the K3 for mode
information, and set itself accordingly.  I suspect that a modification of
the K3.xml file might accomplish this, but I don't know enough about the
programming to see where.

Has anyone succeeded in getting mode information from the K3 to fldigi?

Thanks,
George, W3HBM

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Re: [Elecraft] Fldigi - K3 connection

2017-01-01 Thread Brian Waterworth
Sometimes I have found that when starting FlDigi, the cat linkage doesn't
work on FLDigi's start-up.  I then have to go to FLDigi's menu and do the
following:
Configure-->Rig Control-->RigCat tab --> Initialize button.  If the button
doesn't turn red, you should be able to see changes on the rig or on FLDigi
sync'ed between the rig and FLDigi.

HNY,
Brian
VE3IBW / CG3IBW

On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 11:25 AM, George Kidder  wrote:

> Hi Brian,
>
> Thanks for the reply.  I had found that "howto" file, but can't make much
> sense of it.  The current K3.xml file relays changes between the rig and
> the two little blue boxes under the frequency display, but these changes
> are not reflected in the fldigi operate mode, nor do changes in the op mode
> result in changes in the K3. Nor do the changes in these little boxes get
> reflected in the log entry, which is very annoying.
>
> So do your modifications correct these problems?  If so, could I have a
> copy of it.
>
> 73 and Happy New Year,
>
> George
>
>
>
> On 1/1/2017 10:37 AM, Brian Waterworth wrote:
>
>> Yes, I have had success with my KX3 and FlDigi by modifying the rig xml
>> for
>> the K3 as a starting point.  Here is the howto:
>> http://www.w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp/rig_xml_page.html
>>
>> It took me a little longer to figure out the xml file's relationships, but
>> this howto didn't exist then.
>>
>> Once you see the linkages among the various XML elements, you will be
>> changing the k3.xml file with ease.
>>
>> Have fun !!
>>
>> regards,
>> Brian
>> VE3IBW / CG3IBW
>> Canada's Sesquicentennial (https://wp.rac.ca/special-event-canada150/)
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 10:02 AM, George Kidder  wrote:
>>
>> Hi gang,
>>> I am running fldigi with my K3, and everything works as indicated in the
>>> manual.  It would be useful if fldigi was able to poll the K3 for mode
>>> information, and set itself accordingly.  I suspect that a modification
>>> of
>>> the K3.xml file might accomplish this, but I don't know enough about the
>>> programming to see where.
>>>
>>> Has anyone succeeded in getting mode information from the K3 to fldigi?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> George, W3HBM
>>>
>>> __
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>>> Message delivered to brian.waterwo...@gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an external audio amp?

2017-01-01 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
It's actually "AF Gain" and yes it's set to 'HI'.
I just need to find a good 10-15 watt RMS Stereo amp to put in line with the 
speakers.

When I'm trying to pull a weak signal out and switch on the NR the audio gets 
pretty light.

That combined with hearing that has taken some abuse (Military, industry etc) I 
just need a little more volume.


  From: Vic Rosenthal 
 To: Harry Yingst ; Elecraft Reflector 
 
 Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:10 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an 
external audio amp?
   
There's an AUD GAIN parameter in the CONFIG menu. If it is not already set to 
HI then try that first.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 1 Jan 2017, at 00:46, Harry Yingst via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have the K3 and a pair of SP3 speakers
> 
> When I turn down the RF gain and turn on the NR (to clean up the band noise)  
> I run out of Audio (too quiet) to hear the weaker signals.
> 
> I was curious if anyone is running a small external amp between the K3 and 
> the speakers to help bring up the volume?
> 
> Thank you
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 153, Issue 1

2017-01-01 Thread Steve Webre

Excellent Terry.  Just Excellent.

-Steve-
AF5VR


Message: 28
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2016 22:06:04 -0700 (MST)
From: Terry 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] All the Amplifier Discussions
Message-ID: <1483247164726-7625301.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

As I have been reading the various threads on Amplifiers over the past few
days, I am struck by the incredible variety of topics and activities that
bring all of us joy in Amateur Radio.  For some of us, it is the ability to
make contacts with very little power.  For others, just running a standard
100 watts and trying to earn DXCC etc. or other awards, is a great
challenge.

For others, getting every bit of legal power output as possible, or
discussing what 1-3 dbs. means in making that contact is very important
whereas, someone else might say, "Who cares?"  We all get enjoyment from the
hobby in so many ways.

The maximum power I have ever used was 100 watts.  With a good yagi, there
was never a station if I heard it, I could not work it.  I might have not
been able to bury everyone with a kilowatt signal and be heard first, but it
is really an amazing thing to be in the fray with the big boys and through
timing of the call and other tricks learned over the years, get someone to
come back to me.

I was exclusively an SSB operator for 24 years, then took 9 years off from
the hobby then came back as a CW operator.  It was quite a challenge to get
my speed back after so many years of viewing CW as a means to get up to
Extra, instead of a mode of conversation that I could really enjoy.

After all these years, What I have discovered is not whether I can squeeze
out all the power possible, or have the greatest antennas, or all the
greatest rigs, (Although my K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100 are absolutely the
best rigs I have ever ownedthanks Elecraft!) or spent time on this group
arguing the minute details of some technical question, even though many get
a great deal of enjoyment doing that.

What I have discovered is it is the relationships we make on the air with
our fellow hams.  It is that human connection across the miles, whether it
be several miles on 160, or around the world on 10, it is the great memories
of all the interesting hams I have met on the air, both on SSB, Digital, or
CW that really make Amateur Radio special.

We are all very fortunate to have such a great hobby to enjoy...and to
always remember it is a hobby, and that family always comes first, yet have
great experiences along the way.

When I became a ham at 34 years old, I thought about how ham radio would be
with me throughout my life and as I got older and had more time, it would be
wonderful to have the hobby. Now that I am 68 years old, I still don't seem
to have enough time, but ham radio is a wonderful hobby to enjoy.  One of my
realizations is that even though I have enjoyed several sunspot cycle
maximums over the years,  if I am lucky, I will get to enjoy only one more
in my lifetime.  Life passes so quickly.  Enjoying every day in the
wonderful hobby is such a blessing, and I know that many of us share those
thoughts.

Very 73's,

Terry, N7TB

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Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an external audio amp?

2017-01-01 Thread Walter Underwood
I use this amp with my KX3. It runs off 12V and it is 15W per channel. $8.50 
from Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/DROK-Amplifier-Dual-channel-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00C4MT274/
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jan 1, 2017, at 8:44 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> It's actually "AF Gain" and yes it's set to 'HI'.
> I just need to find a good 10-15 watt RMS Stereo amp to put in line with the 
> speakers.
> 
> When I'm trying to pull a weak signal out and switch on the NR the audio gets 
> pretty light.
> 
> That combined with hearing that has taken some abuse (Military, industry etc) 
> I just need a little more volume.
> 
> 
>  From: Vic Rosenthal 
> To: Harry Yingst ; Elecraft Reflector 
>  
> Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an 
> external audio amp?
> 
> There's an AUD GAIN parameter in the CONFIG menu. If it is not already set to 
> HI then try that first.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 1 Jan 2017, at 00:46, Harry Yingst via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I have the K3 and a pair of SP3 speakers
>> 
>> When I turn down the RF gain and turn on the NR (to clean up the band noise) 
>>  I run out of Audio (too quiet) to hear the weaker signals.
>> 
>> I was curious if anyone is running a small external amp between the K3 and 
>> the speakers to help bring up the volume?
>> 
>> Thank you
>> __
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>> Message delivered to k2vco@gmail.com
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread Dale Martin
Stan, 
I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have you
considered building your own coax switch. 

Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary switch
(you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load

Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch

Wire up the switch thusly: 
Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)

When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on the
dummy load. 

73,
Dale, kg5u


> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49:21 -0500 (EST)
> From: stan levandowski 
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
> Message-ID: <1d09982f.1e408.15951ec5b8d.webtop...@optonline.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> 
> I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm not
sure if
> it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential equipment damage.
> 
> I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of expert
opinion, so
> here's my question:
> 
> 
> I want to buy a two position coaxial switch. ?I want to connect ONE
> antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100 watts)
> and a KX1 (about 3 watts). ?The coax cable coming from this switch to
> the KX2 is a short piece of RG8X and the coax cable going from this
> switch to the KX1 is 25' of RG-174 (yes, I already computed the dB loss
> and I can live with).?
> 
> 
> Am I likely to cause any damage to to either piece of equipment?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Stan WB2LQF
*

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Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an external audio amp?

2017-01-01 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
Thank you

  From: Walter Underwood 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 12:21 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an 
external audio amp?
   
I use this amp with my KX3. It runs off 12V and it is 15W per channel. $8.50 
from Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/DROK-Amplifier-Dual-channel-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00C4MT274/
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jan 1, 2017, at 8:44 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> It's actually "AF Gain" and yes it's set to 'HI'.
> I just need to find a good 10-15 watt RMS Stereo amp to put in line with the 
> speakers.
> 
> When I'm trying to pull a weak signal out and switch on the NR the audio gets 
> pretty light.
> 
> That combined with hearing that has taken some abuse (Military, industry etc) 
> I just need a little more volume.
> 
> 
>      From: Vic Rosenthal 
> To: Harry Yingst ; Elecraft Reflector 
>  
> Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an 
> external audio amp?
> 
> There's an AUD GAIN parameter in the CONFIG menu. If it is not already set to 
> HI then try that first.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 1 Jan 2017, at 00:46, Harry Yingst via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I have the K3 and a pair of SP3 speakers
>> 
>> When I turn down the RF gain and turn on the NR (to clean up the band noise) 
>>  I run out of Audio (too quiet) to hear the weaker signals.
>> 
>> I was curious if anyone is running a small external amp between the K3 and 
>> the speakers to help bring up the volume?
>> 
>> Thank you
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread John
What Dale describes below is a very similar configuration to the MFJ switch
I was given a year or so ago - an MFJ-1703.

I just popped the lid off and took a photo of the insides for you:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h28jny6vrkj7rdj/2017-01-01%2018.28.00.jpg?dl=0

The only difference being that it's basically a DPDT slide switch, rather
than a rotary. Works just as well.

At least, I think that's pretty much what he was describing anyway. Stick a
dummy load on one output and your antenna on the other, and your two rigs on
the two inputs.

73, and a firm left handshake,
John (XLX)

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dale
Martin
Sent: 01 January 2017 17:31
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan
levandowski)

Stan,
I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have you
considered building your own coax switch. 

Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary switch
(you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load

Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch

Wire up the switch thusly: 
Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)

When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on the
dummy load. 

73,
Dale, kg5u


> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49:21 -0500 (EST)
> From: stan levandowski 
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
> Message-ID: <1d09982f.1e408.15951ec5b8d.webtop...@optonline.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> 
> I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm not
sure if
> it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential equipment damage.
> 
> I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of expert
opinion, so
> here's my question:
> 
> 
> I want to buy a two position coaxial switch. ?I want to connect ONE 
> antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100 
> watts) and a KX1 (about 3 watts). ?The coax cable coming from this 
> switch to the KX2 is a short piece of RG8X and the coax cable going 
> from this switch to the KX1 is 25' of RG-174 (yes, I already computed 
> the dB loss and I can live with).?
> 
> 
> Am I likely to cause any damage to to either piece of equipment?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Stan WB2LQF
*

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[Elecraft] Rotating Macros and the K-Pod ?

2017-01-01 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
I recently got a K-Pod for and in setting it up I found that all 16 K3 macros 
are automatically assigned to the K-Pod buttons.
So I now need to find a different way to work with Rotating Macros.

The nicest way would be for Elecraft to add more Macro space to the K3, but I'm 
not sure if and when that may happen.
So this leaves me looking at other methods since It's easy to hold down a 
button on the K-Pod and mess up the rotating macro.

Can the K-Pod be set to not use one bank of Macros (1-8)?
Can the P3 Macros be setup as rotating Macros?


Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread Jim Brown
The isolation provided by this switch will be really poor. In addition 
to the capacitive coupling of the switch itself, note that only the 
center conductor is carried between inputs and outputs, so that the 
chassis carries return current. This adds a lot of inductance to the 
path, and causes crosstalk between circuits.


The RIGHT way to do this is to provide a coaxial path, so that return 
current is confined to the coax shields.  If you look inside the Alpha 
Delta switches you see that they are built that way. There's not coax 
cable between in and outs, but the physical construction is such that 
the body of the switch forms the return path. Not perfect, but FAR better.


73, Jim K9YC

On Sun,1/1/2017 10:37 AM, John wrote:

What Dale describes below is a very similar configuration to the MFJ switch
I was given a year or so ago - an MFJ-1703.

I just popped the lid off and took a photo of the insides for you:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h28jny6vrkj7rdj/2017-01-01%2018.28.00.jpg?dl=0

The only difference being that it's basically a DPDT slide switch, rather
than a rotary. Works just as well.

At least, I think that's pretty much what he was describing anyway. Stick a
dummy load on one output and your antenna on the other, and your two rigs on
the two inputs.

73, and a firm left handshake,
John (XLX)

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dale
Martin
Sent: 01 January 2017 17:31
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan
levandowski)

Stan,
I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have you
considered building your own coax switch.

Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary switch
(you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load

Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch

Wire up the switch thusly:
Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)

When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on the
dummy load.

73,
Dale, kg5u



--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49:21 -0500 (EST)
From: stan levandowski 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
Message-ID: <1d09982f.1e408.15951ec5b8d.webtop...@optonline.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm not

sure if

it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential equipment damage.

I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of expert

opinion, so

here's my question:


I want to buy a two position coaxial switch. ?I want to connect ONE
antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100
watts) and a KX1 (about 3 watts). ?The coax cable coming from this
switch to the KX2 is a short piece of RG8X and the coax cable going
from this switch to the KX1 is 25' of RG-174 (yes, I already computed
the dB loss and I can live with).?


Am I likely to cause any damage to to either piece of equipment?


Thanks,
Stan WB2LQF

*

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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread John
Jim,

Indeed, and an observation I too had made (you'll note I didn't say it's 'in
service', merely 'given to me').

I was just trying to provide an illustration of what was being described by
Dale.

John (XLX)

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: 01 January 2017 19:32
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan
levandowski)

The isolation provided by this switch will be really poor. In addition to
the capacitive coupling of the switch itself, note that only the center
conductor is carried between inputs and outputs, so that the chassis carries
return current. This adds a lot of inductance to the path, and causes
crosstalk between circuits.

The RIGHT way to do this is to provide a coaxial path, so that return
current is confined to the coax shields.  If you look inside the Alpha Delta
switches you see that they are built that way. There's not coax cable
between in and outs, but the physical construction is such that the body of
the switch forms the return path. Not perfect, but FAR better.

73, Jim K9YC

On Sun,1/1/2017 10:37 AM, John wrote:
> What Dale describes below is a very similar configuration to the MFJ 
> switch I was given a year or so ago - an MFJ-1703.
>
> I just popped the lid off and took a photo of the insides for you:
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/h28jny6vrkj7rdj/2017-01-01%2018.28.00.jpg?dl
> =0
>
> The only difference being that it's basically a DPDT slide switch, 
> rather than a rotary. Works just as well.
>
> At least, I think that's pretty much what he was describing anyway. 
> Stick a dummy load on one output and your antenna on the other, and 
> your two rigs on the two inputs.
>
> 73, and a firm left handshake,
> John (XLX)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> Dale Martin
> Sent: 01 January 2017 17:31
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
> (stan
> levandowski)
>
> Stan,
> I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have you 
> considered building your own coax switch.
>
> Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary 
> switch (you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load
>
> Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch
>
> Wire up the switch thusly:
> Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
>   Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
>   Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
> Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
>   Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
>   Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)
>
> When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on 
> the dummy load.
>
> 73,
> Dale, kg5u
>
>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49:21 -0500 (EST)
>> From: stan levandowski 
>> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
>> Message-ID: <1d09982f.1e408.15951ec5b8d.webtop...@optonline.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
>>
>> I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm 
>> not
> sure if
>> it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential equipment damage.
>>
>> I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of expert
> opinion, so
>> here's my question:
>>
>>
>> I want to buy a two position coaxial switch. ?I want to connect ONE 
>> antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100
>> watts) and a KX1 (about 3 watts). ?The coax cable coming from this 
>> switch to the KX2 is a short piece of RG8X and the coax cable going 
>> from this switch to the KX1 is 25' of RG-174 (yes, I already computed 
>> the dB loss and I can live with).?
>>
>>
>> Am I likely to cause any damage to to either piece of equipment?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Stan WB2LQF
> *
>
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread Bill Johnson
John, 

That MFJ switch is also a good example of some poor construction which some
of the MFJ equipment has/had. I have some MFJ-998 equipment which had some
excellent construction. 

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:41 PM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan
levandowski)

Jim,

Indeed, and an observation I too had made (you'll note I didn't say it's 'in
service', merely 'given to me').

I was just trying to provide an illustration of what was being described by
Dale.

John (XLX)

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: 01 January 2017 19:32
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan
levandowski)

The isolation provided by this switch will be really poor. In addition to
the capacitive coupling of the switch itself, note that only the center
conductor is carried between inputs and outputs, so that the chassis carries
return current. This adds a lot of inductance to the path, and causes
crosstalk between circuits.

The RIGHT way to do this is to provide a coaxial path, so that return
current is confined to the coax shields.  If you look inside the Alpha Delta
switches you see that they are built that way. There's not coax cable
between in and outs, but the physical construction is such that the body of
the switch forms the return path. Not perfect, but FAR better.

73, Jim K9YC

On Sun,1/1/2017 10:37 AM, John wrote:
> What Dale describes below is a very similar configuration to the MFJ 
> switch I was given a year or so ago - an MFJ-1703.
>
> I just popped the lid off and took a photo of the insides for you:
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/h28jny6vrkj7rdj/2017-01-01%2018.28.00.jpg?dl
> =0
>
> The only difference being that it's basically a DPDT slide switch, 
> rather than a rotary. Works just as well.
>
> At least, I think that's pretty much what he was describing anyway. 
> Stick a dummy load on one output and your antenna on the other, and 
> your two rigs on the two inputs.
>
> 73, and a firm left handshake,
> John (XLX)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> Dale Martin
> Sent: 01 January 2017 17:31
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
> (stan
> levandowski)
>
> Stan,
> I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have you 
> considered building your own coax switch.
>
> Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary 
> switch (you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load
>
> Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch
>
> Wire up the switch thusly:
> Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
>   Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
>   Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
> Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
>   Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
>   Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)
>
> When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on 
> the dummy load.
>
> 73,
> Dale, kg5u
>
>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49:21 -0500 (EST)
>> From: stan levandowski 
>> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
>> Message-ID: <1d09982f.1e408.15951ec5b8d.webtop...@optonline.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
>>
>> I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm 
>> not
> sure if
>> it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential equipment damage.
>>
>> I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of expert
> opinion, so
>> here's my question:
>>
>>
>> I want to buy a two position coaxial switch. ?I want to connect ONE 
>> antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100
>> watts) and a KX1 (about 3 watts). ?The coax cable coming from this 
>> switch to the KX2 is a short piece of RG8X and the coax cable going 
>> from this switch to the KX1 is 25' of RG-174 (yes, I already computed 
>> the dB loss and I can live with).?
>>
>>
>> Am I likely to cause any damage to to either piece of equipment?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Stan WB2LQF
> *
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Please do a KPA1500

2017-01-01 Thread Nels Nelsen
Hi Fred

Your looking for a bigger Elecraft  amp?

Just put two 500's side by side and drive them 180 degrees out of phase and
take their output and drive a balanced line to your antenna. Be sure to
come back and let us know how it works best for you.
Have fun with it.

NE7LS

   n_n

Remember that all the problems that you are comming up with have already
been solved. Just read the back issues of QST, Ham Radio and 73's magazine.
Building it is  'more'  than half the fun.

On Dec 30, 2016 9:37 AM, "Fredric Serota"  wrote:

> Now more than ever there is a need for a 1500 watt amplifier of the
> quality and function of the KPA500. PLEASE, Elecraft, reconsider your
> decision to produce a KPA 1500. You could use the front end of the KPA500
> as a controller?
>
> Fred Serota, K3BHX
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[Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Terry Brown
I am moving from my current QTH where I have a horizontal loop up about
35-40 ft. that is a bit longer than 1 wavelength on 80.  I feed it at one
corner with 450 ohm twin lead connected to a 4:1 voltage balun, then coax to
my rig.  I can tune all the ham bands either barefoot to my K2 or KX3 and
the KXPA100 using their internal tuners.

 

My new QTH will not have the real estate to do what I can now.  I was hoping
someone who is well versed with the EZNec antenna program could give me an
idea of how well what I think I can build, will work.  I will have a yagi
for 10-15-20.  I am particularly concerned that I may not be able to tune
80.  I have a Sunday CW qso with a group of great guys on 80 and want to
keep participating.

 

Here is the info on the new horizontal loop:

 

The east side will be 54 ft. long and be 2 ft. above my roof at a 35 ft.
height.  That leg of the loop will be over a roof that slopes away for about
8 feet.  The west side will be 78 ft. long and up 20 ft.  The remaining
north and south sides will be 38-40 feet each of the same length.  This will
give a loop a bit longer than 200 ft.  I plan to feed it again on a corner,
the NE corner when it is two feet from the roof and I can run the twin lead
down the side of the house to my shack.

 

I know this will be predominantly a cloud burner, but that is fine on 40 and
80.  My concern is being able to tune it on the 80, 40, 30, 17, and 24 meter
ham bands.   

 

My lot is only 80 by 100 so a doublet on 80 will not work without folding it
in several locations.  I have loved my loop and would love to be able to
continue using one.  The fact that it is horizontally polarized is so nice
for being able to work weak stations  without a lot of noise.

 

If anyone could help me with the analysis of this antenna, I would
appreciate it.

 

73's,

 

Terry, N7TB

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - On Professional Error

2017-01-01 Thread Terry Schieler
And, we musicians refer to our mistakes as "improvisation".  

Happy New Year!  
Terry, W0FM

-Original Message-
From: Phil Hystad [mailto:phys...@mac.com] 
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:29 AM
To: Dauer, Edward
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - On Professional Error

And computer programmers relabel their “bugs” as  new features.


> On Dec 31, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> Actually, it varies among the professions.
> 
> It has been noted in the professional liability field that while doctors get 
> to bury their mistakes, and no-one understands whether a lawyer made a 
> mistake or not, all that architects can do is plant shrubs. 
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR (one of the above)
> 
>--
> 
>Message: 17
>Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:04:34 -0800
>From: Fred Jensen 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
>Message-ID: <9e29da0e-eccd-15cf-de21-bec26a127...@foothill.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> 
>T-shirt the other day:
> 
>MECHANIC
> 
>Curious enough to take it apart
> 
>Professional enough to put it back together
> 
>Smart enough to hide the extra parts
> 
>73,
> 
>Fred K6DGW
>Sparks NV USA
>Washoe County DM09dn
> 
>On 12/30/2016 4:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> Ron and all,
>> 
>> I would differ from that a little bit.  The difference between the 
>> amateur and the pro is that the pro knows how to conceal his mistakes.
>> Take it from a former woodworking pro.
>> 
>> I don't know how that transfers to electronics, a dead semiconductor 
>> device is difficult to to conceal.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> 
>--
> 
> 
> 
> __
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> phys...@mac.com



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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - On Professional Error

2017-01-01 Thread Jeff Stai
In winemaking, we might call it a "trial blend". ;) 73 and HNY jeff wk6i

On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 2:26 PM, Terry Schieler  wrote:

> And, we musicians refer to our mistakes as "improvisation".
>
> Happy New Year!
> Terry, W0FM
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Phil Hystad [mailto:phys...@mac.com]
> Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:29 AM
> To: Dauer, Edward
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - On Professional Error
>
> And computer programmers relabel their “bugs” as  new features.
>
>
> > On Dec 31, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> >
> > Actually, it varies among the professions.
> >
> > It has been noted in the professional liability field that while doctors
> get to bury their mistakes, and no-one understands whether a lawyer made a
> mistake or not, all that architects can do is plant shrubs.
> >
> > Ted, KN1CBR (one of the above)
> >
> >--
> >
> >Message: 17
> >Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:04:34 -0800
> >From: Fred Jensen 
> >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
> >Message-ID: <9e29da0e-eccd-15cf-de21-bec26a127...@foothill.net>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> >
> >T-shirt the other day:
> >
> >MECHANIC
> >
> >Curious enough to take it apart
> >
> >Professional enough to put it back together
> >
> >Smart enough to hide the extra parts
> >
> >73,
> >
> >Fred K6DGW
> >Sparks NV USA
> >Washoe County DM09dn
> >
> >On 12/30/2016 4:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> >> Ron and all,
> >>
> >> I would differ from that a little bit.  The difference between the
> >> amateur and the pro is that the pro knows how to conceal his mistakes.
> >> Take it from a former woodworking pro.
> >>
> >> I don't know how that transfers to electronics, a dead semiconductor
> >> device is difficult to to conceal.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> > phys...@mac.com
>
>
>
> __
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to wk6i.j...@gmail.com
>



-- 
Jeff Stai ~ wk6i.j...@gmail.com
Twisted Oak Winery ~ http://www.twistedoak.com/
Facebook ~ http://www.facebook.com/twistedoak
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Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

2017-01-01 Thread Al Lorona
Bill,


Shame on all of us for nearly stifling your question. I hope nobody is ever 
scared to ask a question here, no matter what it is.

Happy New Year,

Al  W6LX




>>When I posted about the gain levels of amplifiers etc. I was worried 
>>about a back lash and hate mail - I nearly did not post my 
>>statement/question. 
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[Elecraft] Upgrade of K3 control of KPA500

2017-01-01 Thread William Levy
It seems to me that it would be simple to rework some circuitry, add a
board, but do something so that turning on the K3 would also turn on the
KPA automatically.

There are band cable work around macro solutions that exist but if I can
turn on the K3 and the Expert Amp turns on with it there is simply no
reason why Elecraft could not make this happen with software or a few bits
of tiny IC's.

Anyone else think this is a worthy idea?

Happy New Year

N2WL,  Bill Levy
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Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Terry what is the size of your roof line perimeter?
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Terry Brown 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:55 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question
   
I am moving from my current QTH where I have a horizontal loop up about
35-40 ft. that is a bit longer than 1 wavelength on 80.  I feed it at one
corner with 450 ohm twin lead connected to a 4:1 voltage balun, then coax to
my rig.  I can tune all the ham bands either barefoot to my K2 or KX3 and
the KXPA100 using their internal tuners.

 

My new QTH will not have the real estate to do what I can now.  I was hoping
someone who is well versed with the EZNec antenna program could give me an
idea of how well what I think I can build, will work.  I will have a yagi
for 10-15-20.  I am particularly concerned that I may not be able to tune
80.  I have a Sunday CW qso with a group of great guys on 80 and want to
keep participating.

 

Here is the info on the new horizontal loop:

 

The east side will be 54 ft. long and be 2 ft. above my roof at a 35 ft.
height.  That leg of the loop will be over a roof that slopes away for about
8 feet.  The west side will be 78 ft. long and up 20 ft.  The remaining
north and south sides will be 38-40 feet each of the same length.  This will
give a loop a bit longer than 200 ft.  I plan to feed it again on a corner,
the NE corner when it is two feet from the roof and I can run the twin lead
down the side of the house to my shack.

 

I know this will be predominantly a cloud burner, but that is fine on 40 and
80.  My concern is being able to tune it on the 80, 40, 30, 17, and 24 meter
ham bands.  

 

My lot is only 80 by 100 so a doublet on 80 will not work without folding it
in several locations.  I have loved my loop and would love to be able to
continue using one.  The fact that it is horizontally polarized is so nice
for being able to work weak stations  without a lot of noise.

 

If anyone could help me with the analysis of this antenna, I would
appreciate it.

 

73's,

 

Terry, N7TB

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread stan levandowski
Gosh, everybody, I didn't mean to create any controversy.  FYI, I 
already have a high quality (??) Alpha Delta switch where "...unused 
terminals are grounded" and that's what I'm going to use.  I'll just 
have to be careful.



I use my KX2/KXPA100 most of the time and that's the position the switch 
will be routinely be in.  The other switch position will be connected to 
50' of un-terminated coax.  Every once in awhile I feel like operating 
my little KX1 a) while lying in bed, b) by a roaring fire in my 
fireplace while it's snowing, c) on my front porch on a summer night 
with a glass of iced tea and d) on the back deck while doing BBQ.



The switch and the 50' of coax allow me to connect my KX1 to my SGC-231 
and (amazingly!) there's enough RF to kick the coupler into action.  



It's nice to get out of the shack and operate simply once-in-awhile and 
a good doublet beats a piece of wire by a country mile.



Thanks to all and Happy New Year.


On Sun, Jan 01, 2017 at 04:49 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:


John,
That MFJ switch is also a good example of some poor construction which 
some
of the MFJ equipment has/had. I have some MFJ-998 equipment which had 
some

excellent construction.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
John

Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:41 PM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
(stan

levandowski)

Jim,

Indeed, and an observation I too had made (you'll note I didn't say 
it's 'in

service', merely 'given to me').

I was just trying to provide an illustration of what was being 
described by

Dale.

John (XLX)

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
Jim

Brown
Sent: 01 January 2017 19:32
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
(stan

levandowski)

The isolation provided by this switch will be really poor. In addition 
to
the capacitive coupling of the switch itself, note that only the 
center
conductor is carried between inputs and outputs, so that the chassis 
carries

return current. This adds a lot of inductance to the path, and causes
crosstalk between circuits.

The RIGHT way to do this is to provide a coaxial path, so that return
current is confined to the coax shields.  If you look inside the Alpha 
Delta

switches you see that they are built that way. There's not coax cable
between in and outs, but the physical construction is such that the 
body of

the switch forms the return path. Not perfect, but FAR better.

73, Jim K9YC

On Sun,1/1/2017 10:37 AM, John wrote:
What Dale describes below is a very similar configuration to the MFJ 
switch I was given a year or so ago - an MFJ-1703.


I just popped the lid off and took a photo of the insides for you:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/h28jny6vrkj7rdj/2017-01-01%2018.28.00.jpg?dl
=0

The only difference being that it's basically a DPDT slide switch, 
rather than a rotary. Works just as well.


At least, I think that's pretty much what he was describing anyway. 
Stick a dummy load on one output and your antenna on the other, and 
your two rigs on the two inputs.


73, and a firm left handshake,
John (XLX)

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
Dale Martin

Sent: 01 January 2017 17:31
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
(stan

levandowski)

Stan,
I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have 
you considered building your own coax switch.


Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary 
switch (you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load


Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch

Wire up the switch thusly:
Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)

When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on 
the dummy load.


73,
Dale, kg5u



--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49:21 -0500 (EST)
From: stan levandowski To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch
Message-ID: <1d09982f.1e408.15951ec5b8d.webtop...@optonline.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm 
not

sure if
it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential equipment 
damage.


I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of 
expert

opinion, so

here's my question:


I want to buy a two position coaxial switch. ?I want to connect ONE 
antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100
watts) and a KX1 (about 3 watts). ?The coax cable coming

Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

2017-01-01 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft

It's a shame that some don't ask (and in turn don't learn) out of fear.
Sadly though some here do indeed have an ego and a need to belittle those whom 
ask.






  From: Al Lorona 
 To: Bill ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
 Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 5:37 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked
   
Bill,


Shame on all of us for nearly stifling your question. I hope nobody is ever 
scared to ask a question here, no matter what it is.

Happy New Year,

Al  W6LX




>>When I posted about the gain levels of amplifiers etc. I was worried 
>>about a back lash and hate mail - I nearly did not post my 
>>statement/question. 
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread Bill Johnson
Stan, please forgive my post.  Not meant to criticize you.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of stan 
levandowski
Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 5:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan 
levandowski)

Gosh, everybody, I didn't mean to create any controversy.  FYI, I already have 
a high quality (??) Alpha Delta switch where "...unused terminals are grounded" 
and that's what I'm going to use.  I'll just have to be careful.


I use my KX2/KXPA100 most of the time and that's the position the switch will 
be routinely be in.  The other switch position will be connected to 50' of 
un-terminated coax.  Every once in awhile I feel like operating my little KX1 
a) while lying in bed, b) by a roaring fire in my fireplace while it's snowing, 
c) on my front porch on a summer night with a glass of iced tea and d) on the 
back deck while doing BBQ.


The switch and the 50' of coax allow me to connect my KX1 to my SGC-231 and 
(amazingly!) there's enough RF to kick the coupler into action.  


It's nice to get out of the shack and operate simply once-in-awhile and 
a good doublet beats a piece of wire by a country mile.


Thanks to all and Happy New Year.


On Sun, Jan 01, 2017 at 04:49 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

> John,
> That MFJ switch is also a good example of some poor construction which 
> some
> of the MFJ equipment has/had. I have some MFJ-998 equipment which had 
> some
> excellent construction.
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> John
> Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:41 PM
> To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
> (stan
> levandowski)
>
> Jim,
>
> Indeed, and an observation I too had made (you'll note I didn't say 
> it's 'in
> service', merely 'given to me').
>
> I was just trying to provide an illustration of what was being 
> described by
> Dale.
>
> John (XLX)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> Jim
> Brown
> Sent: 01 January 2017 19:32
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
> (stan
> levandowski)
>
> The isolation provided by this switch will be really poor. In addition 
> to
> the capacitive coupling of the switch itself, note that only the 
> center
> conductor is carried between inputs and outputs, so that the chassis 
> carries
> return current. This adds a lot of inductance to the path, and causes
> crosstalk between circuits.
>
> The RIGHT way to do this is to provide a coaxial path, so that return
> current is confined to the coax shields.  If you look inside the Alpha 
> Delta
> switches you see that they are built that way. There's not coax cable
> between in and outs, but the physical construction is such that the 
> body of
> the switch forms the return path. Not perfect, but FAR better.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On Sun,1/1/2017 10:37 AM, John wrote:
>> What Dale describes below is a very similar configuration to the MFJ 
>> switch I was given a year or so ago - an MFJ-1703.
>>
>> I just popped the lid off and took a photo of the insides for you:
>>
>> 
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/h28jny6vrkj7rdj/2017-01-01%2018.28.00.jpg?dl
>> =0
>>
>> The only difference being that it's basically a DPDT slide switch, 
>> rather than a rotary. Works just as well.
>>
>> At least, I think that's pretty much what he was describing anyway. 
>> Stick a dummy load on one output and your antenna on the other, and 
>> your two rigs on the two inputs.
>>
>> 73, and a firm left handshake,
>> John (XLX)
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>> Dale Martin
>> Sent: 01 January 2017 17:31
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
>> (stan
>> levandowski)
>>
>> Stan,
>> I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have 
>> you considered building your own coax switch.
>>
>> Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary 
>> switch (you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load
>>
>> Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch
>>
>> Wire up the switch thusly:
>> Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
>>  Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
>>  Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
>> Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
>>  Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
>>  Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)
>>
>> When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on 
>> the dummy load.
>>
>> 73,
>> Dale, kg5u
>>
>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Message: 3
>>> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49:21 -0500 (EST)
>>> From: stan levandowski To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coax

[Elecraft] MH3 mic with the K3?

2017-01-01 Thread Ron Manfredi

HNYto all!

Has anyone made an adapter cable to allow the MH-3  mic to be used with 
the K-3?   I acquired a KX3 with its mic, and a K-3 without a mic, and 
would like to be able to use the same mic on both rigs.


Any wiring tips?

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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
I've also have thought about running a switch so I can switch between a couple 
of radios here (and a way to idiot proof it).

I have considered building up something using relays (or a manual switch) that 
would switch each radio into either a dummy load or into the antenna path.




  From: stan levandowski 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 6:01 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan 
levandowski)
   
Gosh, everybody, I didn't mean to create any controversy.  FYI, I 
already have a high quality (??) Alpha Delta switch where "...unused 
terminals are grounded" and that's what I'm going to use.  I'll just 
have to be careful.


I use my KX2/KXPA100 most of the time and that's the position the switch 
will be routinely be in.  The other switch position will be connected to 
50' of un-terminated coax.  Every once in awhile I feel like operating 
my little KX1 a) while lying in bed, b) by a roaring fire in my 
fireplace while it's snowing, c) on my front porch on a summer night 
with a glass of iced tea and d) on the back deck while doing BBQ.


The switch and the 50' of coax allow me to connect my KX1 to my SGC-231 
and (amazingly!) there's enough RF to kick the coupler into action.  


It's nice to get out of the shack and operate simply once-in-awhile and 
a good doublet beats a piece of wire by a country mile.


Thanks to all and Happy New Year.


On Sun, Jan 01, 2017 at 04:49 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

> John,
> That MFJ switch is also a good example of some poor construction which 
> some
> of the MFJ equipment has/had. I have some MFJ-998 equipment which had 
> some
> excellent construction.
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> John
> Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:41 PM
> To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
> (stan
> levandowski)
>
> Jim,
>
> Indeed, and an observation I too had made (you'll note I didn't say 
> it's 'in
> service', merely 'given to me').
>
> I was just trying to provide an illustration of what was being 
> described by
> Dale.
>
> John (XLX)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> Jim
> Brown
> Sent: 01 January 2017 19:32
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
> (stan
> levandowski)
>
> The isolation provided by this switch will be really poor. In addition 
> to
> the capacitive coupling of the switch itself, note that only the 
> center
> conductor is carried between inputs and outputs, so that the chassis 
> carries
> return current. This adds a lot of inductance to the path, and causes
> crosstalk between circuits.
>
> The RIGHT way to do this is to provide a coaxial path, so that return
> current is confined to the coax shields.  If you look inside the Alpha 
> Delta
> switches you see that they are built that way. There's not coax cable
> between in and outs, but the physical construction is such that the 
> body of
> the switch forms the return path. Not perfect, but FAR better.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On Sun,1/1/2017 10:37 AM, John wrote:
>> What Dale describes below is a very similar configuration to the MFJ 
>> switch I was given a year or so ago - an MFJ-1703.
>>
>> I just popped the lid off and took a photo of the insides for you:
>>
>> 
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/h28jny6vrkj7rdj/2017-01-01%2018.28.00.jpg?dl
>> =0
>>
>> The only difference being that it's basically a DPDT slide switch, 
>> rather than a rotary. Works just as well.
>>
>> At least, I think that's pretty much what he was describing anyway. 
>> Stick a dummy load on one output and your antenna on the other, and 
>> your two rigs on the two inputs.
>>
>> 73, and a firm left handshake,
>> John (XLX)
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>> Dale Martin
>> Sent: 01 January 2017 17:31
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch 
>> (stan
>> levandowski)
>>
>> Stan,
>> I haven't taken the time to read all the other responses, but have 
>> you considered building your own coax switch.
>>
>> Parts: 1 aluminum box, 4 SO-239's, 1 two-pole, multi-position rotary 
>> switch (you only need 2 positions, but more is okay), 100w dummy load
>>
>> Mount the SO-239's (J1-J4) and rotary switch
>>
>> Wire up the switch thusly:
>> Pole 1 to J1 (KX2)
>>     Contact 1 to J3 (antenna feedline)
>>     Contact 2 to J4 (dummy load)
>> Pole 2 to J2 (KX1)
>>     Contact 1 to J4 (dummy load)
>>     Contact 2 to J3 (Antenna feedline)
>>
>> When you switch one radio the antenna, the other radio is then put on 
>> the dummy load.
>>
>> 73,
>> Dale, kg5u
>>
>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Message: 3
>>> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 17:49

Re: [Elecraft] MH3 mic with the K3?

2017-01-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ron,

I am not going to give you a step by step set of instructions, but the 
K3 (no hyphen) manual has the pinout for the 8 pin Foster jack, and the 
KX3 manual has the pinout for the MH3 mic plug.
Match up the AF lines and the shell (AF ground) with the 8 pin 
connections, and match up the PTT on the MH3 plug ring 1 to the PTT pin 
on the 8 pin.
The PTT return is a little more "tricky" and you should connect the MH3 
ring 2 to wither pin 7 or pin 8 on the 8 pin Foster plug.


You will need to turn bias on in the K3 menu, and the UP/DN buttons on 
the MH3 mic will not work - but you should have audio and PTT.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2017 6:23 PM, Ron Manfredi wrote:

HNYto all!

Has anyone made an adapter cable to allow the MH-3  mic to be used with
the K-3?   I acquired a KX3 with its mic, and a K-3 without a mic, and
would like to be able to use the same mic on both rigs.

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Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

2017-01-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

The only questions that are "dumb" are those that are not asked.

Any on-reflector backlash will be handled by Eric (the only moderator) 
and any off-reflector hate mail should be reported to Eric directly.

Read the list rules and past posts by Eric if you doubt my word about that.

This appears to be one of the most helpful email reflectors in 
existence, so if you have a question, do not hesitate to ask it, even 
off-topic posts, but related to ham radio are acceptable as long as it 
does not get "out of hand" with a long string of posts.  You may get a 
variety of answers, some more informative than others, but on this list, 
personal attacks will not be tolerated - either by most of the list 
members, but more importantly by the moderator.
If you receive a "nasty" response, do not attack back on the list, but 
turn it over to Eric for action.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 1/1/2017 8:34 AM, Bill wrote:

When I posted about the gain levels of amplifiers etc. I was worried
about a back lash and hate mail - I nearly did not post my
statement/question. So glad I did! What a treasure trove of information
resulted. Really makes belonging to this group well worth while! Whether
you are a QRPer, DXer, QROer, or just an arm chair op - there is sure
something here for everyone.

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Re: [Elecraft] MH3 mic with the K3?

2017-01-01 Thread Ron Manfredi
Thanks, Don.  I was thinking along those lines,  but I wasn't sure about 
the getting bias from the K3.   On the Foster plug I am wiring, should 
pin 6 (bias) be  connected to pin 1 to supply bias?



Ron



On 1/1/2017 6:49 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ron,

I am not going to give you a step by step set of instructions, but the 
K3 (no hyphen) manual has the pinout for the 8 pin Foster jack, and 
the KX3 manual has the pinout for the MH3 mic plug.
Match up the AF lines and the shell (AF ground) with the 8 pin 
connections, and match up the PTT on the MH3 plug ring 1 to the PTT 
pin on the 8 pin.
The PTT return is a little more "tricky" and you should connect the 
MH3 ring 2 to wither pin 7 or pin 8 on the 8 pin Foster plug.


You will need to turn bias on in the K3 menu, and the UP/DN buttons on 
the MH3 mic will not work - but you should have audio and PTT.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2017 6:23 PM, Ron Manfredi wrote:

HNYto all!

Has anyone made an adapter cable to allow the MH-3  mic to be used with
the K-3?   I acquired a KX3 with its mic, and a K-3 without a mic, and
would like to be able to use the same mic on both rigs.




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Re: [Elecraft] MH3 mic with the K3?

2017-01-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ron,

No.  Pin 6 is NOT bias, but a source of 8 volts.
Bias to the microphone is applied through a resistor, not directly from 
a voltage source.
All you need to do is turn BIAS on in the MIC SEL menu.  See the K3 
manual for the button to tap to toggle the bias setting.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2017 7:09 PM, Ron Manfredi wrote:
Thanks, Don.  I was thinking along those lines,  but I wasn't sure 
about the getting bias from the K3.   On the Foster plug I am wiring, 
should pin 6 (bias) be  connected to pin 1 to supply bias?


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Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Bill

While you design and experiment with a new loop:

Install a reduced size dipole for 80.  My rule of thumb, which has 
worked for many quickie antennas is to use insulated #14 wire and 
close-wind on a 2" white PVC pipe a length of wire that is twice the 
length of that removed from the antenna. You will loose some bandwidth, 
but you will be on the air.


Comment about the proposed loop: If the overall physical size is a 
little short - you are using tuned feed, so it will not make for that 
big a loss. It also does not have to be square - five or six sides will 
do fine - just get as much open space inside the loop as possible. 
Proximity to the roof means proximity to the RFI from the house.


Nothing scientific or big worded here - just things that work that are 
based on my experience over the years.


Bill W2BLC - K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade of K3 control of KPA500

2017-01-01 Thread lmarion
I am still surprised that K3s control of  KPA500 power and standby  on/off 
is not already a feature.

Maybe it is and I can't figure it out.
Maybe a KPOD macro some how?

 On another note,does anyone know how to KPOD macro a CW ID when in SSB?

Thanks,  Leroy  AB7CE


-Original Message- 
From: William Levy

Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2017 3:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Upgrade of K3 control of KPA500

It seems to me that it would be simple to rework some circuitry, add a
board 


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Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

2017-01-01 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Don's right on.

Don't act like a bunch of snowflakes.

So WHAT if some knucklehead posts a "flame" reply to your question.
It will not affect you at all and makes the poster look like the jerk.

In reality, the flamer is the one who is the looser in it all.
Jeeze, I've stuck my foot in my mouth any number of times and been dumped on
for it, but didn't affect the taste of my egg-nog one little bit.

Charlie k3ICH








-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2017 7:06 PM
To: Bill ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

Bill,

The only questions that are "dumb" are those that are not asked.

Any on-reflector backlash will be handled by Eric (the only moderator) and
any off-reflector hate mail should be reported to Eric directly.
Read the list rules and past posts by Eric if you doubt my word about that.

This appears to be one of the most helpful email reflectors in existence, so
if you have a question, do not hesitate to ask it, even off-topic posts, but
related to ham radio are acceptable as long as it does not get "out of hand"
with a long string of posts.  You may get a variety of answers, some more
informative than others, but on this list, personal attacks will not be
tolerated - either by most of the list members, but more importantly by the
moderator.
If you receive a "nasty" response, do not attack back on the list, but turn
it over to Eric for action.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 1/1/2017 8:34 AM, Bill wrote:
> When I posted about the gain levels of amplifiers etc. I was worried 
> about a back lash and hate mail - I nearly did not post my 
> statement/question. So glad I did! What a treasure trove of 
> information resulted. Really makes belonging to this group well worth 
> while! Whether you are a QRPer, DXer, QROer, or just an arm chair op - 
> there is sure something here for everyone.
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Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

2017-01-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

I might add that "corrections" should not be interpreted as "flames"
The poster of corrections should not use "blaming" language, but instead 
 should be informative with substantiation for his "corrections".


I repeat, there are no "dumb" questions.  Anyone who posts a question 
has a need to know the answer, even if that answer needs to be "that is 
not possible" or "what you requested does not exist".


The best answers will give the poster places to look to solve his 
problem or provide him with additional information about why his 
question is not answerable.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2017 9:13 PM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Don's right on.

Don't act like a bunch of snowflakes.

So WHAT if some knucklehead posts a "flame" reply to your question.
It will not affect you at all and makes the poster look like the jerk.

In reality, the flamer is the one who is the looser in it all.
Jeeze, I've stuck my foot in my mouth any number of times and been dumped on
for it, but didn't affect the taste of my egg-nog one little bit.

Charlie k3ICH








-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2017 7:06 PM
To: Bill ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

Bill,

The only questions that are "dumb" are those that are not asked.

Any on-reflector backlash will be handled by Eric (the only moderator) and
any off-reflector hate mail should be reported to Eric directly.
Read the list rules and past posts by Eric if you doubt my word about that.

This appears to be one of the most helpful email reflectors in existence, so
if you have a question, do not hesitate to ask it, even off-topic posts, but
related to ham radio are acceptable as long as it does not get "out of hand"
with a long string of posts.  You may get a variety of answers, some more
informative than others, but on this list, personal attacks will not be
tolerated - either by most of the list members, but more importantly by the
moderator.
If you receive a "nasty" response, do not attack back on the list, but turn
it over to Eric for action.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 1/1/2017 8:34 AM, Bill wrote:

When I posted about the gain levels of amplifiers etc. I was worried
about a back lash and hate mail - I nearly did not post my
statement/question. So glad I did! What a treasure trove of
information resulted. Really makes belonging to this group well worth
while! Whether you are a QRPer, DXer, QROer, or just an arm chair op -
there is sure something here for everyone.

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Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

Terry,

Have you considered an 80 meter inverted L?

It takes up little real estate for the radiator, but does require 
putting down a ground screen at the base of the inverted L.
If you do not wish to bury 32 radials for a ground screen, consider 
using resonant elevated radials.  Two elevated radials running in 
opposing directions will do the job nicely.


Put the elevated radials above ground by about 10 feet to keep them out 
of the range of humans and deer and other things running into them and 
causing harm.  If there are horse riders who will be riding through your 
property, you may want to increase the height to 15 feet.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2017 4:55 PM, Terry Brown wrote:

I am moving from my current QTH where I have a horizontal loop up about
35-40 ft. that is a bit longer than 1 wavelength on 80.  I feed it at one
corner with 450 ohm twin lead connected to a 4:1 voltage balun, then coax to
my rig.  I can tune all the ham bands either barefoot to my K2 or KX3 and
the KXPA100 using their internal tuners.


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Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Jim Brown

On Sun,1/1/2017 6:44 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
It takes up little real estate for the radiator, but does require 
putting down a ground screen at the base of the inverted L. 


To avoid confusion about how antennas work, it's best to call this a 
counterpoise, and leave the word "ground" out of it. The first function 
of a counterpoise is to provide a path for return current. The earth is 
a terrible path, because it's basically a big resistor, so it burns a 
lot of transmitter power, leaving less for the antenna to radiate. 
Radials are a nearly ideal form of counterpoise, because they not only 
provide a low resistance source for return current, but they also shield 
the antenna from lossy earth.


In addition to the very good solution that Don described, there are 
other possibilities. K2AV has designed what he calls a "folded" 
counterpoise that fits on a pretty small lot. Google to find details. 
His original design was for 160m, but it can be scaled for 80M.


I've given several talks to ham clubs about "getting on 160 from a small 
lot." It's mostly about antennas and counterpoise systems. 
http://k9yc.com/160MPacificon.pdf  For 80M, divide the dimensions by 2.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Barry

Don,
Good suggestion. Let me suggest a variant that at least two of use 
are using. I use it because of my severe space limitation. Basically, 
the antenna is an inverted L that is fed at its center at the top of the 
vertical run thereby obviating the need for a ground. It has a total 
length of a about 1/2 wave, but half is vertical, or nearly so, and the 
rest runs to a convenient tree that is a little lower than the tree 
holding up the vertical piece. I feed it using 450 Ohm ladder line to a 
4:1 current balun where I transition to coax.


I ran an Eznec simulation of this antenna. It appears to play really 
nicely on 80-30 meters, and the lobes get a little crazy starting at 
about 20 meters. On the air, performance appears to agree. The downside 
of this antenna is the vertical piece is susceptible to local man-made 
noise. This is far from a perfect antenna, but I sure can work DX and 
locals.


Let me restate that this is not a perfect antenna. I started down 
this road as the upper bands are not going to be great as we slip lower 
in the solar cycle and I wanted to get DXCC on 80 and 40. This antenna 
does lay down a low lobe on both bands and losses are reasonable. A good 
horizontal antenna will have a higher radiation angle at the support 
heights I have. This is my way of dealing with the problem of getting 
low angles with reasonably high supports. If I had 100+ foot supports 
around, I might look at some other option.



73 & Happy New Year,
Barry
K3NDM


-- Original Message --
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: "Terry Brown" ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/1/2017 9:44:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal 
loop question



Terry,

Have you considered an 80 meter inverted L?

It takes up little real estate for the radiator, but does require 
putting down a ground screen at the base of the inverted L.
If you do not wish to bury 32 radials for a ground screen, consider 
using resonant elevated radials.  Two elevated radials running in 
opposing directions will do the job nicely.


Put the elevated radials above ground by about 10 feet to keep them out 
of the range of humans and deer and other things running into them and 
causing harm.  If there are horse riders who will be riding through 
your property, you may want to increase the height to 15 feet.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2017 4:55 PM, Terry Brown wrote:
I am moving from my current QTH where I have a horizontal loop up 
about
35-40 ft. that is a bit longer than 1 wavelength on 80.  I feed it at 
one
corner with 450 ohm twin lead connected to a 4:1 voltage balun, then 
coax to
my rig.  I can tune all the ham bands either barefoot to my K2 or KX3 
and

the KXPA100 using their internal tuners.


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Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

2017-01-01 Thread Ken Talbott
Snowflake!  I'm offended.  I must
retreat to my safe space.  Now where is
that in the band plan
Ken ke4rg
PS With enough Jack, any egg-nog can be
made to taste good.  And Happy New Year
to you all.

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
] On Behalf Of Charlie T, K3ICH
Sent: January 1, 2017 21:14
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

Don's right on.

Don't act like a bunch of snowflakes.

So WHAT if some knucklehead posts a
"flame" reply to your question.
It will not affect you at all and makes
the poster look like the jerk.

In reality, the flamer is the one who is
the looser in it all.
Jeeze, I've stuck my foot in my mouth
any number of times and been dumped on
for it, but didn't affect the taste of
my egg-nog one little bit.

Charlie k3ICH


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Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
My current antenna is an Inverted L 1/2 wavelength long at 80 meters and is
direct fed. That length puts the voltage "loop" (maximum) at the rig, so the
counterpoise requirements are minimal on 80. The L is 40 feet vertical and
80 feed horizontal. That puts the current max near the bend on the "flat
top" for high efficiency. 

I have my own Homebrew L-Net tuner on a shelf above the rig that will handle
the huge voltages experienced at exactly 1/2 wave, but by finagling the
length the impedance can be brought into range of the K3s/KAT500 tuners
without a huge loss in efficiency. However note that the antenna terminates
right in the shack so you need to be concerned about meeting safe RF
exposure limits, especially if running more than 100 watts on the higher
bands.

I use mine with good results on 160 through 20 meters.

73, Ron AC7AC 
 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 6:44 PM
To: Terry Brown; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop
question

Terry,

Have you considered an 80 meter inverted L?

It takes up little real estate for the radiator, but does require putting
down a ground screen at the base of the inverted L.
If you do not wish to bury 32 radials for a ground screen, consider using
resonant elevated radials.  Two elevated radials running in opposing
directions will do the job nicely.

Put the elevated radials above ground by about 10 feet to keep them out of
the range of humans and deer and other things running into them and causing
harm.  If there are horse riders who will be riding through your property,
you may want to increase the height to 15 feet.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2017 4:55 PM, Terry Brown wrote:
> I am moving from my current QTH where I have a horizontal loop up 
> about
> 35-40 ft. that is a bit longer than 1 wavelength on 80.  I feed it at 
> one corner with 450 ohm twin lead connected to a 4:1 voltage balun, 
> then coax to my rig.  I can tune all the ham bands either barefoot to 
> my K2 or KX3 and the KXPA100 using their internal tuners.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] GEMS PRODUCTS... Were still here!

2017-01-01 Thread n6...@outlook.com
For those interested, it appears the Gems 
Products website is back up with all of their 
side panels, covers, etc. available for viewing and ordering. Thanks Scott!
Gary
N6LRV

From: k...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:k...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of 
kd6...@sbcglobal.net [KX3]
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 10:05 AM
To: k...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KX3] GEMS PRODUCTS... Were still here!

Greetings all, I am Scott of GEMSproducts.com   or SIDE KX... we are still 
hereMy IT guys have been moving my web site over to  a new server so I 
can have an SSL compliant web page.  The old host was not facilitating the 
transfer but this week we have been able to get limited help from their tech 
support due to the holidays.  Looks like we are now making some progress on the 
change and we should be back up and running shortly.

I appreciate all the support and business from you over the last 3 years.   We 
are here to stay and I will have some new products in January as well!

I will post again here when we get the web page back on line.

73 Scott AK6Q._,_.___


Posted by: kd6...@sbcglobal.net

Reply via web 
post

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[Elecraft] KX3 battery charging and alarm setting.

2017-01-01 Thread Gerard Elijzen
Hi all,
First wishing everyone a prosperous 2017.

About 18 months ago I reported a problem to Elecraft.
The problem is that whilst the internal batteries in my KX3 are charging 
overnight and at the same time the alarm has been set to turn the radio on the 
next morning then the radio will never turn on. If batteries are not being 
charged then the alarm function works fine.

This problem was verified by Elecraft (Got an email stating this) but no 
solution has been forthcoming since.

I hope Elecraft reads this and provides a solution so that these function(s) 
can be operated simultaneously.

Other then that, very happy with my KX3 being almost 3 years old.

Thanks,
Gerard VK2JNG
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread Richard Fjeld
Years ago, I built such a switch to prevent accidents should one radio 
transmit when comparing two radios. It is basically an a/b switch such 
that a radio became the active radio by switching the antenna to it, and 
simultaneously switching the dummy load to the inactive radio. Neither 
radio is without a load regardless of the switch position.

My switch is just a prototype using an aluminum project box.  I called 
MFJ and suggested they build one. A couple guys got on the call with me, 
and not long afterward, I saw a product advertised that seemed to be 
it.  It had decent specs for isolation. I can't find it on their site 
now.  The only thing that comes close to it might be the MFJ-1705, but 
they are describing it differently and there is no schematic.

If this isn't the correct switch, It could easily be converted. The 
important hardware is there.  I think I used a DPDT switch (I could 
check mine).
It should have the small coax wired between the connections. I Don't 
remember the nomenclature for that.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/1/2017 5:18 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> I've also have thought about running a switch so I can switch between a 
> couple of radios here (and a way to idiot proof it).
>
> I have considered building up something using relays (or a manual switch) 
> that would switch each radio into either a dummy load or into the antenna 
> path.
>
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] R: {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread glcazzola
Sorry, but why not buy a used Bird Coaxwitch with his isolation higher than 80 
dB?I use them and like them very much.
Ian IK4EWX

Invio eseguito dallo smartphone BlackBerry 10.
  Messaggio originale  
Da: Richard Fjeld
Inviato: lunedì 2 gennaio 2017 07:13
A: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Oggetto: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan 
levandowski)

Years ago, I built such a switch to prevent accidents should one radio 
transmit when comparing two radios. It is basically an a/b switch such 
that a radio became the active radio by switching the antenna to it, and 
simultaneously switching the dummy load to the inactive radio. Neither 
radio is without a load regardless of the switch position.

My switch is just a prototype using an aluminum project box. I called 
MFJ and suggested they build one. A couple guys got on the call with me, 
and not long afterward, I saw a product advertised that seemed to be 
it. It had decent specs for isolation. I can't find it on their site 
now. The only thing that comes close to it might be the MFJ-1705, but 
they are describing it differently and there is no schematic.

If this isn't the correct switch, It could easily be converted. The 
important hardware is there. I think I used a DPDT switch (I could 
check mine).
It should have the small coax wired between the connections. I Don't 
remember the nomenclature for that.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/1/2017 5:18 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> I've also have thought about running a switch so I can switch between a 
> couple of radios here (and a way to idiot proof it).
>
> I have considered building up something using relays (or a manual switch) 
> that would switch each radio into either a dummy load or into the antenna 
> path.
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] R: {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

2017-01-01 Thread F5vjc
I'm using an LDG DTS-4 to connect 3 rigs (one spare port for test
equipment) to one antenna feed.

73 F5VJC

On 2 January 2017 at 07:19,  wrote:

> Sorry, but why not buy a used Bird Coaxwitch with his isolation higher
> than 80 dB?I use them and like them very much.
> Ian IK4EWX
>
> Invio eseguito dallo smartphone BlackBerry 10.
>   Messaggio originale
> Da: Richard Fjeld
> Inviato: lunedì 2 gennaio 2017 07:13
> A: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Oggetto: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan
> levandowski)
>
> Years ago, I built such a switch to prevent accidents should one radio
> transmit when comparing two radios. It is basically an a/b switch such
> that a radio became the active radio by switching the antenna to it, and
> simultaneously switching the dummy load to the inactive radio. Neither
> radio is without a load regardless of the switch position.
>
> My switch is just a prototype using an aluminum project box. I called
> MFJ and suggested they build one. A couple guys got on the call with me,
> and not long afterward, I saw a product advertised that seemed to be
> it. It had decent specs for isolation. I can't find it on their site
> now. The only thing that comes close to it might be the MFJ-1705, but
> they are describing it differently and there is no schematic.
>
> If this isn't the correct switch, It could easily be converted. The
> important hardware is there. I think I used a DPDT switch (I could
> check mine).
> It should have the small coax wired between the connections. I Don't
> remember the nomenclature for that.
>
> Dick, n0ce
>
>
> On 1/1/2017 5:18 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> > I've also have thought about running a switch so I can switch between a
> couple of radios here (and a way to idiot proof it).
> >
> > I have considered building up something using relays (or a manual
> switch) that would switch each radio into either a dummy load or into the
> antenna path.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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> Message delivered to glcazz...@alice.it
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> Message delivered to foxfive@gmail.com
>
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