Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Oppopsite Sideband Null question - Redux

[Barry]

Mark,
Where did you find the utility? I just search the web and the 
Elecraft site for the utility, but it never showed up.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Mark Forsyth" 
To: "Grant Youngman" 
Cc: "Elecraft Refl" 
Sent: 6/13/2020 12:17:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Oppopsite Sideband Null question - Redux


Hi,
Elecraft have a handy little utility called RxSbNull.exe which does the whole 
process. All you need is an up to date KX3, an up to date XG3, a Windows 
computer and the utility. It works like a charm. Turn the radio volume down 
before you start it though otherwise it’ll annoy the hell out of you.

Cheers
Mark Forsyth
http://jandmf.com
VK3KW


 On 12 Jun 2020, at 11:36 pm, Grant Youngman  wrote:

 Elecraft Tech Support seems (understandably) a bit slow to respond at this 
point.   This is a repeat of a question I asked a few days ago.  Maybe someone 
else will see it and have some insight (?).

 I have redone the opposite sideband null procedure in my KX3 (#8342) with 
KXFL3 filter board, using both the 2013 per-band null procedure, and the 2015 
KXFL3 installation/calibration instructions.  The procedures are essentially 
the same, with a minor difference in RIT setting, and the fact that the KXFL3 
installation manual calls this out only on 20M rather than on each band 
individually.

 With my XG3 as a signal source,  I get an excellent opposite sideband null 
using either FL1 or FL2 bandwidth settings on all bands.  With narrow bandwidth 
and FL3 switched in, the null is very broad and shallow, and the opposite 
sideband is reduced only on the order of 10dB (+/-) rather than the very deep 
nulls (60+ dB) obtainable with FL1/FL2.  As a result, the opposite sideband 
remains clearly audible when tuning across a signal — say CW at 500 Hz 
bandwidth, etc.

 If anyone else out there has done either of these procedures, did you get as 
deep a null with FL3 as with FL1/FL2?  I’m trying to determine if this is 
normal, or if there's an issue in the radio, possibly with my KXFL3 board.

 Thanks … Grant NQ5T
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Oppopsite Sideband Null question - Redux

[Mark Forsyth]

Hi,
Elecraft have a handy little utility called RxSbNull.exe which does the whole 
process. All you need is an up to date KX3, an up to date XG3, a Windows 
computer and the utility. It works like a charm. Turn the radio volume down 
before you start it though otherwise it’ll annoy the hell out of you. 

Cheers
Mark Forsyth
http://jandmf.com
VK3KW 

> On 12 Jun 2020, at 11:36 pm, Grant Youngman  wrote:
> 
> Elecraft Tech Support seems (understandably) a bit slow to respond at this 
> point.   This is a repeat of a question I asked a few days ago.  Maybe 
> someone else will see it and have some insight (?).
> 
> I have redone the opposite sideband null procedure in my KX3 (#8342) with 
> KXFL3 filter board, using both the 2013 per-band null procedure, and the 2015 
> KXFL3 installation/calibration instructions.  The procedures are essentially 
> the same, with a minor difference in RIT setting, and the fact that the KXFL3 
> installation manual calls this out only on 20M rather than on each band 
> individually.
> 
> With my XG3 as a signal source,  I get an excellent opposite sideband null 
> using either FL1 or FL2 bandwidth settings on all bands.  With narrow 
> bandwidth and FL3 switched in, the null is very broad and shallow, and the 
> opposite sideband is reduced only on the order of 10dB (+/-) rather than the 
> very deep nulls (60+ dB) obtainable with FL1/FL2.  As a result, the opposite 
> sideband remains clearly audible when tuning across a signal — say CW at 500 
> Hz bandwidth, etc.
> 
> If anyone else out there has done either of these procedures, did you get as 
> deep a null with FL3 as with FL1/FL2?  I’m trying to determine if this is 
> normal, or if there's an issue in the radio, possibly with my KXFL3 board.
> 
> Thanks … Grant NQ5T
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[Elecraft] Stripping enamel from wire

[Frank C Richards]

Look at this tool.  Knipex Wire Stripping Tweezers #1511120
  I have not used them, but am thinking about getting a pair.
 They are available on Amazon or Chads Toolbox.com.
  Chads has replacement blades in different sizes.I think it
  comes with a .6mm blade but a .5mm blade #1519005 is
  available. With those two blades you should be able to
  strip from  22ga to 28ga wire.

  Good Luck  Frank- KB4VU

.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.

[Barry]

Don,
I never got the chance to work as a scientist. It might have been 
fun. I did enjoy doing designs to products, but there were times when I 
was ready to change career field. :-\


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: "Barry" ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 6/10/2020 9:46:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on motorboat.


Barry,

Sometimes we have to put on the Scientists hat, but when the rubber meets the 
road and we have to come up with a product, we have to put on the design 
engineers hat and say that how much compromise is required to meet 1) customer 
demands, 2) budget constraints, 3) speed to first customer shipment, 4) 
adherence to the initial specifications that have been published.
If you can meet 2 of the 4 above, you have done OK, 3 is better, but takes more 
effort.

I worked both as a design engineer and as a Product Assurance Test Team Leader 
whose efforts were to test the product to conform to the specifications or fix 
it - an alternative was to change the specifications, which usually did not sit 
well with me, but was reality.

73,
W3FPR

On 6/10/2020 7:55 PM, Barry wrote:

Don,
I worked as a design engineer and then transitioned to system 
engineering/project management. In those latter days, I would receive a 
requirement set from which I needed to make sense. I also had budgetary issues 
that were built in, more requirements than money.  And, there might have been 
other conflicts. So, I know what e had to do, maximize the number of 
requirements satisfied with in the set.

Yes. We engineers were pretty well trained, but when making decisions on 
what had to go or be included it wasn't always a 2+2 = 4 which is precise. 
Mathematicians are precise and there may be only answer to the equation, but 
that wasn't the world I was living in; I could have many different solutions 
based on the requirements. This is the point I was trying to make.






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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Fred Jensen]

Ummm ... solder pot not required.  All of the Elecraft kits I've built, 
including my K2, used heat-strippable wire for the toroids.  Small blob 
of solder on the iron, stick end of wire into it, wait a few seconds, 
when insulation bubbles and smokes, insert wire into blob slowly as far 
as you need to.  End of wire is not only stripped, it's now tinned too.


I used a separate larger iron I had that happened to have a flat-ish end 
which held a good solder blob but occasionally did it with my Weller 
Solder Station I was using for the actual soldering.  I wiped it off 
every now and then when the insulation and rosin had accumulated.  I did 
not find it frustrating at all.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/12/2020 2:01 PM, William Hammond via Elecraft wrote:

I have suffered through the painful process of removing the enamel on the wire 
on just about all of the Elecraft kits..K2, K1, KX1, tuner’s etc.. I think I 
have made them all...just reading the comments here I was wondering why I never 
bought a solder pot as recommended...I checked out eBay and found several at 
around $30 USD,,why didn’t I do that 10 -15 elecraftyears ago and save all that 
frustration??  Chinese made, some 120 volt..perhaps will work for several 
kits...If I had it to do again..

73, Bill-AK5X



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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[William]

Stripper machines actually sand/ grind off the insulation.  Less chance of 
nicks.
Burning it off is for the low temp insulation (think is called soldex) and 
works for commercial applications as the insulation acts like a flux.
Most insulation (enamel, Formvar or polyamides) are high temp, 150-200C rating 
so much higher temps needed to burn it away.  200C wire can be almost white hot 
and still survive. 
 Either careful scrap, don’t nick or use fine sand paper.  Tin the bare copper 
after stripped.  
Bill,  K1BZM

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 4:58 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> I use a Knipex wire stripping tweezers
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-1511120-Coated-Wire-Stripping-Tweezers/dp/B003RWS8XE
> 
> I ordered the 0.5 blade which seems to be best for our small wire.
> Use a light pressure and this thing works great.
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack
> 
> On Jun 12, 2020, at 11:25 AM, "qr...@roadrunner.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> The old tried and true method is to use an X-acto knife to scrape the
> insulation off with. Simple, not very elegant but it always works.
> 
> 72
> 
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
> 
>   -From: "Robert G Strickland
> via Elecraft"
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Friday June 12 2020 10:03:58AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires
> 
> Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel
> insulation from wires for winding toroids.
> 
> The instruction say:
> -dip in a solder pot which I don't have
> -use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which
> has
> never worked for me.
> 
> Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned
> off
> any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just
> doesn't
> happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but
> whichever,
> the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to
> scrape
> off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict
> when
> enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.
> 
> ..robert
> 
> --
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> rc...@verizon.net.usa
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] ISO ASSEMBLED ELECRAFT KIO2 AUX I/O MODULE

[George P Linehan III via Elecraft]

Just scored a used K-2 TNX & 73.  PAUL. WA6YCA 
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[William Hammond via Elecraft]

I have suffered through the painful process of removing the enamel on the wire 
on just about all of the Elecraft kits..K2, K1, KX1, tuner’s etc.. I think I 
have made them all...just reading the comments here I was wondering why I never 
bought a solder pot as recommended...I checked out eBay and found several at 
around $30 USD,,why didn’t I do that 10 -15 elecraftyears ago and save all that 
frustration??  Chinese made, some 120 volt..perhaps will work for several 
kits...If I had it to do again..

73, Bill-AK5X

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 6/12/2020 7:02 AM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
>> Any insightful hints?
> 
> I've had to strip a lot of enameled wire in the course of my common mode 
> choke projects. Like you, I don't have the heat resources, and I don't know 
> if the wire I'm stripping has the characteristic of the enamel melting. I've 
> alternated between a file, sandpaper, and a knife blade.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[hawley, charles j jr]

I use a Knipex wire stripping tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-1511120-Coated-Wire-Stripping-Tweezers/dp/B003RWS8XE

I ordered the 0.5 blade which seems to be best for our small wire.
Use a light pressure and this thing works great.

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack

On Jun 12, 2020, at 11:25 AM, "qr...@roadrunner.com"  
wrote:

The old tried and true method is to use an X-acto knife to scrape the
insulation off with. Simple, not very elegant but it always works.

72

Howard Kraus, K2UD

   -From: "Robert G Strickland
via Elecraft"
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc:
Sent: Friday June 12 2020 10:03:58AM
Subject: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel
insulation from wires for winding toroids.

The instruction say:
-dip in a solder pot which I don't have
-use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which
has
never worked for me.

Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned
off
any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just
doesn't
happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but
whichever,
the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to
scrape
off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict
when
enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.

..robert

--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

[Keith N6JPA]

Years ago I came across a web site that had British intelligence agents 
use of CW and Q codes for their spying communications. It was very 
interesting to read all the Q codes meanings.



On 6/12/2020 11:33 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:
There were a number of Q-signal questions on my 2T exam in 1956.  The 
Z's were used primarily by the military, I don't recall any in 
commercial ops.  Very common on military TTY channels in the 60's.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/12/2020 11:12 AM, Andy Durbin wrote:


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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Jim Brown]

On 6/12/2020 7:02 AM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:

Any insightful hints?


I've had to strip a lot of enameled wire in the course of my common mode 
choke projects. Like you, I don't have the heat resources, and I don't 
know if the wire I'm stripping has the characteristic of the enamel 
melting. I've alternated between a file, sandpaper, and a knife blade.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation

[Don Wilhelm]

Thank you Kent for that thoughtful caution.  I have a holder for mine.
When I use it for wire stripping, I lay it on its side on a heat 
resistant surface on the workbench.  No need to touch anything other 
than the handle and the trigger to start the suction.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/12/2020 3:48 PM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:
And if you DO own a Hakko 808, remember it is not a soldering gun with 
an on/off trigger.  It is ALWAYS HOT while plugged in.  The trigger 
simply activates the suction mechanism.


When you lay it down, lay it on something non-combustable and non-painful.


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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation

[KENT TRIMBLE]

And if you DO own a Hakko 808, remember it is not a soldering gun with 
an on/off trigger.  It is ALWAYS HOT while plugged in.  The trigger 
simply activates the suction mechanism.


When you lay it down, lay it on something non-combustable and non-painful.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV



On 6/12/2020 2:31 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
For those who own a desoldering iron like the Hakko 808, stripping the 
enamel from heat strippable wire is quick and easy - just like a 
solder pot.  Melt a bit of solder on the tip and push the wire into 
the tip center.  Wait a bit for 'smoke' to appear and then pull the 
trigger. Presto, stripped lead.
Just clean the inside of the tip with the tip cleaning rod after a few 
leads have been stripped.  If you don't do that, the tip will clog.


73,
Don W3FPR





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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[George Winship, NC5G]

I have used the solder blob method with success. However, when I was
building my K2 about 19 years ago, I used an old bullet shell casing for a
solder pot. Secured it with vice grip pliers to hold it verticle, laid the
soldering iron to side of the casing to melt the solder inside, then dipped
the wire into the casing. It worked well.

73, George NC5G



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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation

[Don Wilhelm]

For those who own a desoldering iron like the Hakko 808, stripping the 
enamel from heat strippable wire is quick and easy - just like a solder 
pot.  Melt a bit of solder on the tip and push the wire into the tip 
center.  Wait a bit for 'smoke' to appear and then pull the trigger. 
Presto, stripped lead.
Just clean the inside of the tip with the tip cleaning rod after a few 
leads have been stripped.  If you don't do that, the tip will clog.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/12/2020 3:17 PM, Frederick Dwight wrote:

I have found the solder iron method works for all my Elecraft projects, and for 
some but not all “enamel” wire from other sources.
I just use a moderate temperature soldering station.  I think the important 
clue is to place a glob of solder on the tip,
place the wire in the glob, and add a bit more solder for the perhaps 10 or 20 
seconds it may take.  Another way
is to use a scrap of fine grit sandpaper in your fingers and gently stroke 
toward the end of the wire.
If you need to scrape, or sandpaper the wire and do not get off all the enamel, 
it is easy to finish the
job with a solder blob since you should get good heat transfer into the wire.  
Make sure you use good
tin/lead rosin core solder which will tin the wire nicely.  Happy 
solderingKL7CW

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[Elecraft] stripping insulation

[Frederick Dwight]

I have found the solder iron method works for all my Elecraft projects, and for 
some but not all “enamel” wire from other sources.  
I just use a moderate temperature soldering station.  I think the important 
clue is to place a glob of solder on the tip,
place the wire in the glob, and add a bit more solder for the perhaps 10 or 20 
seconds it may take.  Another way
is to use a scrap of fine grit sandpaper in your fingers and gently stroke 
toward the end of the wire.  
If you need to scrape, or sandpaper the wire and do not get off all the enamel, 
it is easy to finish the
job with a solder blob since you should get good heat transfer into the wire.  
Make sure you use good 
tin/lead rosin core solder which will tin the wire nicely.  Happy 
solderingKL7CW


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Kevin McQuiggin]

A better way is to use an enamelled wire stripping tool!  They are cheap and 
work much better than the other methods, which honestly were poorly effective 
for me for years.  For my last project I bought the tool, it was a joy to use.  

73,

Kevin VE7ZD 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 11:47, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the many replies. I should have mentioned that the wire to be 
> stripped comes from Elecraft in the K2 antenna tuner kit. Elecraft recommends 
> the solder pot or the solder iron; they discourage using a lighter/flame.
> ...robert
> 
>> On 6/12/2020 02:02 PM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
>> Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel
>> insulation from wires for winding toroids.
>> 
>> The instruction say:
>> -dip in a solder pot which I don't have
>> -use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which has
>> never worked for me.
>> 
>> Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned off
>> any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just doesn't
>> happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but whichever,
>> the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to scrape
>> off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict when
>> enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.
>> 
>> ..robert
>> 
> 
> -- 
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> rc...@verizon.net.usa
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] KX-3 Loaded As New $1,350 Shipped ConUsa

[George P Linehan III via Elecraft]

KX-3, unfielded.  Non-smoker.  Tuner, Clock, Filter Battery, Charger & Bag
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[Elecraft] FS: LP-PAN-2 , XONAR U7

[Henry]

For sale: LP-PAN-2 SDR IQ Panadapter, ser. no. 02298 for K3 and XONAR U7 
192 kHz USB soundcard in original boxes. Includes all cabling. $175.00 
plus shipping.


Henry, KT1J


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[Elecraft] Evaluating Keying Characteristics

[Andy Durbin]

"I repeat my advice that keying characteristics must be evaluated in the 
FREQUENCY domain (as occupied bandwidth), NOT in the TIME domain 
(oscilloscope). The reason has been stated here many times -- it's not only the 
TIME of the transition that determines bandwidth, it is the SHAPE of the 
transition from off to on and on to off that matters, NOT the time it takes, 
and this cannot be seen on a scope."

The frequency domain will have no information (other than lack of signal) until 
RF is generated.  A spectrum analyzer cannot be used to determine the timing of 
the various switching events during CW keying.  It can only provide useful 
information while RF is being generated.

Your post was in reply to "Thanks for the scope shot and info. I compared the 
waveform to the QST K3S review, which seems to show a little over 10ms before 
RF appears. Is this because they used different settings?"  This appears to 
relate to the timing of the switching events not to the characteristics of the 
RF itself.  I think the oscilloscope is the right instrument for this 
measurement.

I would submit that both a 'scope and a spectrum analyzer are required for a 
full evaluation of keying characteristics.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Robert G Strickland via Elecraft]

Thanks for the many replies. I should have mentioned that the wire to be 
stripped comes from Elecraft in the K2 antenna tuner kit. Elecraft 
recommends the solder pot or the solder iron; they discourage using a 
lighter/flame.

...robert

On 6/12/2020 02:02 PM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:

Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel
insulation from wires for winding toroids.

The instruction say:
-dip in a solder pot which I don't have
-use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which has
never worked for me.

Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned off
any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just doesn't
happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but whichever,
the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to scrape
off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict when
enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.

..robert



--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

[Fred Jensen]

There were a number of Q-signal questions on my 2T exam in 1956.  The 
Z's were used primarily by the military, I don't recall any in 
commercial ops.  Very common on military TTY channels in the 60's.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/12/2020 11:12 AM, Andy Durbin wrote:

ACP 131(F) -

https://web.archive.org/web/20130215140321/http://jcs.dtic.mil/j6/cceb/acps/acp131/ACP131F09.pdf

Offered to NATO for adoption:

https://archives.nato.int/uploads/r/null/1/2/127387/SGM-0921-55_ENG_PDP.pdf

Was anyone actually expected to memorize all of these codes?

73,
Andy, k3wyc



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Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

[Fred Jensen]

QLF [not officially assigned] has been around a long time with several 
similar meanings.  A common [and fairly ancient] one is "Are you sending 
with your left foot?" and "Please attempt to send with your left foot."


I believe QSD, "Is my keying defective?" and "Your keying is defective", 
refers to the technical characteristics of keying such as contact 
bounce, missing dits, broken dahs, etc.


Purely out of nostalgia, I dabble in traffic handling via the Nor Cal 
Net.  I'm one of two N. NV stations so I mostly receive and deliver.  
One of the changes from the heyday of NTS is that many operators are 
hovering within microns over their paddle ready to pounce, resulting in 
a lot of doubles and even triples and general confusion.  I guess they 
just can't wait to send something.  They are often the same folks on 
bugs set way faster than they can actually send reliably.  That, coupled 
with the fact that everyone is exactly zero beat and our radios all 
sound alike these days can really screw up a net.


Someone posted the procedure for moving off the net QRG to receive or 
send, pointing out that it's the receiving station who is supposed to 
find the clear frequency.  Unfortunately, that convention seems to have 
died, these same operators, needing to be the first to send, nearly 
always are calling me well before I find a clear spot.  I believe they 
would be candidates for ZBM2.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/12/2020 10:59 AM, Kevin McQuiggin wrote:

QLF was a joke Q code meaning “Quality of your (CW) sounds like you are sending 
it with your left foot”, hence “QLF”.  From QST in the 1930s, I recall.


On Jun 12, 2020, at 10:41 AM, Fred Jensen  wrote:

Good point Andy!  QLF seems to refer to sending ability.  ZBM2 refers to overall 
operating ability ... I think ... ACP's 126 and 131 leave a lot to the reader's 
imagination. Jack Phillips, MGY, might have used it on "Iceberg Night" had the 
Z's existed then when he was berating the operators on the Californian and a Navy vessel 
for poor operating procedure.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/11/2020 7:45 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"ZBM2: "Place a competent operator on watch on this frequency."

Is QLF the more sensitive equivalent??

73,
Andy, k3wyc



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[Elecraft] Evaluating Keying Characteristics

[Jim Brown]

On 6/12/2020 3:23 AM, E.H. Russell wrote:

Thanks for the scope shot and info. I compared the waveform to the QST K3S 
review, which seems to show a little over 10ms before RF appears. Is this 
because they used different settings?


I repeat my advice that keying characteristics must be evaluated in the 
FREQUENCY domain (as occupied bandwidth), NOT in the TIME domain 
(oscilloscope). The reason has been stated here many times -- it's not 
only the TIME of the transition that determines bandwidth, it is the 
SHAPE of the transition from off to on and on to off that matters, NOT 
the time it takes, and this cannot be seen on a scope.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

[Andy Durbin]

ACP 131(F) -

https://web.archive.org/web/20130215140321/http://jcs.dtic.mil/j6/cceb/acps/acp131/ACP131F09.pdf

Offered to NATO for adoption:

https://archives.nato.int/uploads/r/null/1/2/127387/SGM-0921-55_ENG_PDP.pdf

Was anyone actually expected to memorize all of these codes?

73,
Andy, k3wyc

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Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

[N2TK via Elecraft]

Only ever got one QLF. In the late 1970's, two minutes to go at the end of the 
PA QSO party and found the last mult to get a clean sweep.   When I went to 
send the key fell apart. Yanked off the wires and touched them together to send 
call and info in CW. But I got him in the log and a clean sweep.  
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

Good point Andy!  QLF seems to refer to sending ability.  ZBM2 refers to 
overall operating ability ... I think ... ACP's 126 and 131 leave a lot to the 
reader's imagination. Jack Phillips, MGY, might have used it on "Iceberg Night" 
had the Z's existed then when he was berating the operators on the Californian 
and a Navy vessel for poor operating procedure.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/11/2020 7:45 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:
> "ZBM2: "Place a competent operator on watch on this frequency."
>
> Is QLF the more sensitive equivalent??
>
> 73,
> Andy, k3wyc
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

[Fred Jensen]

Good point Andy!  QLF seems to refer to sending ability.  ZBM2 refers to 
overall operating ability ... I think ... ACP's 126 and 131 leave a lot 
to the reader's imagination. Jack Phillips, MGY, might have used it on 
"Iceberg Night" had the Z's existed then when he was berating the 
operators on the Californian and a Navy vessel for poor operating procedure.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/11/2020 7:45 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"ZBM2: "Place a competent operator on watch on this frequency."

Is QLF the more sensitive equivalent??

73,
Andy, k3wyc



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[Elecraft] CW rise time setting

[Andy Durbin]

"Most folks assume there will be no delay between KEY closure and KEY OUT 
closure, but there is an extra delay (of about 5 ms, minimum) in the K3S."

I suppose I'm not in the "most folks" group.  I measured this delay when 
investigating the keying characterisitcs of my  Kenwood TS-590S.  Key down to 
amplifier relay closure was 2 ms for the configuration under test.  RF started 
rising about 14 ms after key closure.

73,
Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Charlie T]

It depends on whether your wire has "enamel" or "Ny-Clad" insulation.
The darker enamel can be removed with a "paint-remover" like stuff that was
sold in in little square bottles by CG and others.
A quick search failed to locate any here, but I've got some somewhere (??)

The lighter color stuff is probably Ny-Clad and will have to be sanded, or
scrapped off as the enamel remover won't cut it.

I find that some 400 grit paper with take off most insulation without
damaging the wire as can happen by scrapping.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Robert G Strickland via Elecraft
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 10:03 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel
insulation from wires for winding toroids.

The instruction say:
-dip in a solder pot which I don't have
-use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which has
never worked for me.

Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned off any
insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just doesn't happen.
Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but whichever, the enamel
insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to scrape off the
insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict when enough is
enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.

...robert

--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes, that always works, BUT if you nick the wire, it will break, 
especially on smaller gauge wire.  For #20 and larger it is likely OK.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/12/2020 12:24 PM, qr...@roadrunner.com wrote:

The old tried and true method is to use an X-acto knife to scrape the
insulation off with. Simple, not very elegant but it always works.


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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[QRP5W]

The old tried and true method is to use an X-acto knife to scrape the
insulation off with. Simple, not very elegant but it always works.

72

Howard Kraus, K2UD

-From: "Robert G Strickland
via Elecraft" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: 
Sent: Friday June 12 2020 10:03:58AM
Subject: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel 
 insulation from wires for winding toroids.

 The instruction say:
 -dip in a solder pot which I don't have
 -use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which
has 
 never worked for me.

 Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned
off 
 any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just
doesn't 
 happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but
whichever, 
 the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to
scrape 
 off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict
when 
 enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.

 ..robert

 -- 
 Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
 rc...@verizon.net.usa
 Syracuse, New York, USA
 __
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 Home:  Message delivered to qr...@roadrunner.com 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Chuck,

If you want the VFO switching capability with the up and down buttons on 
the MH4, you will want the jumpers installed for the UP and DN function 
on the header also. If you look at the KSB2 manual, it just says to 
install all 8 jumpers for the MH2 (and now MH4).


I do know some ops who have built an adapter to fit the 8-pin mic 
connector and is placed in between the mic and connector. They then wire 
the adapter to match the mic they are using. Probably more work than 
just removing the Front Panel though ;-)


73,
Dave, W8FGU


On 6/12/2020 12:07:06 PM, "hawley, charles j jr"  
wrote:



Ah so...
That's going to take some disassembly. Disconnect the battery. Remove 
the RTC and unscrew the control board and pull the front panel off I 
guess. I just looked and need to install the 5 volt jumper and then the 
resistor. I finished building this 10 years ago so I had to get out the 
assembly manual 

Thanks for the info,

73,

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Dave Van Wallaghen 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 9:11 AM
To: hawley, charles j jr ; Elecraft Reflector 


Subject: Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

Hi Charles,

Bias for the MH4 (and previous MH2) mic is provided by placing a 5.6k 
resistor between pin 1 and 6 on the mic connector of the K2.


Most of us just solder the resistor to those pins on the back of the 
mic connector on the Front Panel Board. My MH4 came with a small 
envelope that contained a 5.6k resistor and 8 2-pin jumpers for the mic 
config header. The UP and DN buttons on the MH4 switch between  VFO A 
and VFO B on the K2. It switches bands on the K3, KX3 and KX2.


73,
Dave, W8FGU

On June 12, 2020 10:02:15 "hawley, charles j jr" 
 wrote:


The Elecraft manual says the condenser type MH4 mic is acceptable for 
use on the K2, but I don't see any bias for it in the K2 or SSB2 
schematics. I never had a mic for the K2 so I thought I'd get the MH4 
and maybe use it on my K3s as well.

Am I missing something? Is there bias for it on the K2?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Don Wilhelm]

Robert,

Those instructions are for heat-strippable wire.  If you have enamel or 
formvar covered wire, that must be mechanically stripped.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/12/2020 10:02 AM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel 
insulation from wires for winding toroids.


The instruction say:
-dip in a solder pot which I don't have
-use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which has 
never worked for me.


Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned off 
any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just doesn't 
happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but whichever, 
the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to scrape 
off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict when 
enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.


...robert


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Re: [Elecraft] Spurs on 6 meters on FT8

[Don Wilhelm]

Barney,

I assume you are talking about a K3/K3S or KX3.
For those you need to increase the audio drive so you have 4 bars solid 
showing on the ALC meter with the 5th flashing.  That is the NO ALC 
point on those radios.  It is required for proper power control.

See the article on my website www.w3fpr.com for more detail.

I don't know if that will help with the spurs, but it will help with 
your power output and keep the radio from Power Hunting.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/12/2020 11:25 AM, cbscholl wrote:

I am having a problem only on 6 meters with spurs being generated while using
FT8. I have the audio level turned down so no alc reading appears or even
lower and that does not eliminate them. The other point that I noticed is
that only on 6 meters the 100 final turns on above 8 watts rather than 12
watts on other bands. Does anyone have any ideas or what else I can check?
Barney K3LA

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Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Ah so...
That's going to take some disassembly. Disconnect the battery. Remove the RTC 
and unscrew the control board and pull the front panel off I guess. I just 
looked and need to install the 5 volt jumper and then the resistor. I finished 
building this 10 years ago so I had to get out the assembly manual 
Thanks for the info,

73,

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Dave Van Wallaghen 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 9:11 AM
To: hawley, charles j jr ; Elecraft Reflector 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

Hi Charles,

Bias for the MH4 (and previous MH2) mic is provided by placing a 5.6k resistor 
between pin 1 and 6 on the mic connector of the K2.

Most of us just solder the resistor to those pins on the back of the mic 
connector on the Front Panel Board. My MH4 came with a small envelope that 
contained a 5.6k resistor and 8 2-pin jumpers for the mic config header. The UP 
and DN buttons on the MH4 switch between  VFO A and VFO B on the K2. It 
switches bands on the K3, KX3 and KX2.

73,
Dave, W8FGU

On June 12, 2020 10:02:15 "hawley, charles j jr"  wrote:

The Elecraft manual says the condenser type MH4 mic is acceptable for use on 
the K2, but I don't see any bias for it in the K2 or SSB2 schematics. I never 
had a mic for the K2 so I thought I'd get the MH4 and maybe use it on my K3s as 
well.
Am I missing something? Is there bias for it on the K2?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] Spurs on 6 meters on FT8

[donovanf]

Hi Barney, 


Please share some details about the nature of the spurious signals you're 
trying to solve 


Thanks 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: "cbscholl"  
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 3:25:12 PM 
Subject: [Elecraft] Spurs on 6 meters on FT8 

I am having a problem only on 6 meters with spurs being generated while using 
FT8. I have the audio level turned down so no alc reading appears or even 
lower and that does not eliminate them. The other point that I noticed is 
that only on 6 meters the 100 final turns on above 8 watts rather than 12 
watts on other bands. Does anyone have any ideas or what else I can check? 
Barney K3LA 



-- 
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ 
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[Elecraft] Spurs on 6 meters on FT8

[cbscholl]

I am having a problem only on 6 meters with spurs being generated while using
FT8. I have the audio level turned down so no alc reading appears or even
lower and that does not eliminate them. The other point that I noticed is
that only on 6 meters the 100 final turns on above 8 watts rather than 12
watts on other bands. Does anyone have any ideas or what else I can check?
Barney K3LA



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time setting

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

The plot in the *QST* review of the K3S shows the delay between "key
closure" (the KEY jack of K3S) and RF out.  My plot shows the delay between
"amp relay closure" (the KEY OUT jack of K3S) and RF, which is more
critical.

Most folks assume there will be no delay between KEY closure and KEY OUT
closure, but there is an extra delay (of about 5 ms, minimum) in the K3S.
The same applies to PTT IN closure and KEY OUT closure; that is, there is
an unexplained fixed 5 ms delay in the K3S, probably due to slow firmware
logic testing for TX Inhibit or an intentional enforcement of some minimum
delay in RF output.

Most radios close KEY OUT immediately upon key closure of either the KEY
jack or the PTT IN jack.  The K3 does not; it "hesitates" before closing
KEY OUT.

I'm also hoping the K4 will eliminate this unusual behavior.

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 3:23 AM E.H. Russell  wrote:

> Bob,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the scope shot and info. I compared the waveform to the QST K3S
> review, which seems to show a little over 10ms before RF appears. Is this
> because they used different settings?
>
>
>
> Will be interesting to see how the new radio CW looks in time and
> frequency domains. Also how the turnaround latency is managed.
>
>
>
> Tks,
>
> 73 Ed w2rf
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bob Wilson, N6TV 
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 11, 2020 2:05 PM
> *To:* Elecraft Reflector 
> *Cc:* E.H. Russell 
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time setting
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:31 PM E.H. Russell  wrote:
>
> I suppose shaping of the curve corners removes harmonics introduced by the
> abrupt transitions, allowing an accelerated ramp inbetween. But does this
> really reduce the total rise time to 2.5ms? It seems that the softening
> process must take some time. Wish I had a K3 here to scope against other
> radios. Anything published out there?
>
>
>
> Ed,
>
>
>
> Per your request, I am publishing this scope screen capture which plots
> the CW rise time in my K3 with the KSYN3A synthesizer upgrade.  It's about
> 4 ms from 0 RF to full RF (2 ms per horizontal division):
>
>
>
> https://www.kkn.net/~n6tv/N6TV_K3_Ser_1494_FW_05.64_TX_DLY_8_CW_QRQ_OFF.png
>
>
>
> The vertical markers are there to illustrate that *CONFIG:TX DLY nor 008*
> provides only about *6 ms* of RF delay after "KEY OUT" goes to ground,
> not 8 ms, and there is jitter in that delay as well (not shown).  If CW QRQ
> mode is enabled, the delay drops to about 4.6 ms and the TX DLY setting is
> completely ignored.
>
>
>
> This was discussed here two years ago.  See this post for suggestions on
> how to avoid hot-switching a non-Elecraft amplifier driven by a K3 or K3S:
>
>
>
>
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Default-K3-transmit-delay-may-be-too-short-for-slow-QRO-amplifiers-td7641779.html
>
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> Bob, N6TV
>
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Dave Fugleberg]

I've used four methods:
- melt with a soldering iron
- burn off with a small butane torch
- scrape off with some very fine grit sandpaper
- scrape off with a single edge razor blade

All work, but I typically use the sandpaper or the razor blade.
With sandpaper, I just double over the sandpaper over the end of the wire,
squeeze, and pull the wire out. Sometimes takes 2-3 times to get it clean.

With the razor method,  I hold the wire down on the workbench and carefully
scrape off the insulation, scraping toward the end of the wire. I find this
gives me the best control of exactly how much insulation I remove. I just
reposition the wire a couple times to get it all off. takes seconds, and is
not hard on the wire (provided you have a light touch).

Have wound many toroids successfully with all methods.

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 9:03 AM Robert G Strickland via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel
> insulation from wires for winding toroids.
>
> The instruction say:
> -dip in a solder pot which I don't have
> -use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which has
> never worked for me.
>
> Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned off
> any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just doesn't
> happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but whichever,
> the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to scrape
> off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict when
> enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.
>
> ...robert
>
> --
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> rc...@verizon.net.usa
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

Note that there is enameled wire that can't be stripped this way. The 
enamel is heat-resistant. Of course if you are using the wire that comes 
with Elecraft kits, you shouldn't have this problem.


What I do is put a blob of solder on the tip of the iron. Then, I hole 
the END of the wire, which of course has no enamel on it, against the 
tip. That transmits heat into the copper, starting the process. Then I 
pass the wire through the blob slowly and watch the enamel boil off.


Afterwards I scrape lightly with a knife to remove flux and burned enamel.

This works fine with the iron set to 750 degrees f. If you aren't 
succeeding with an iron even hotter, I would suspect that you have the 
wrong kind of enameled wire.


Incidentally, I use a second iron with an old tip for this. Having the 
blob of solder with flux boiling on it for a long time tends to erode 
the tip.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 12/06/2020 17:02, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel 
insulation from wires for winding toroids.


The instruction say:
-dip in a solder pot which I don't have
-use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which has 
never worked for me.


Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned off 
any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just doesn't 
happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but whichever, 
the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to scrape 
off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict when 
enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.


...robert


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Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

[Frank Krozel]

It is a front panel resistor that needs to be added if.. I recall.

-73-  FrankKG9H
kg9hfr...@gmail.com




> On Jun 12, 2020, at 9:00 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> The Elecraft manual says the condenser type MH4 mic is acceptable for use on 
> the K2, but I don't see any bias for it in the K2 or SSB2 schematics. I never 
> had a mic for the K2 so I thought I'd get the MH4 and maybe use it on my K3s 
> as well.
> Am I missing something? Is there bias for it on the K2?
> 
> Chuck Hawley
> c-haw...@illinois.edu
> 
> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hi Charles,

Bias for the MH4 (and previous MH2) mic is provided by placing a 5.6k 
resistor between pin 1 and 6 on the mic connector of the K2.


Most of us just solder the resistor to those pins on the back of the mic 
connector on the Front Panel Board. My MH4 came with a small envelope that 
contained a 5.6k resistor and 8 2-pin jumpers for the mic config header. 
The UP and DN buttons on the MH4 switch between  VFO A and VFO B on the K2. 
It switches bands on the K3, KX3 and KX2.


73,
Dave, W8FGU
On June 12, 2020 10:02:15 "hawley, charles j jr"  wrote:

The Elecraft manual says the condenser type MH4 mic is acceptable for use 
on the K2, but I don't see any bias for it in the K2 or SSB2 schematics. I 
never had a mic for the K2 so I thought I'd get the MH4 and maybe use it on 
my K3s as well.

Am I missing something? Is there bias for it on the K2?

Chuck Hawley
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Amateur Radio, KE9UW
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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[Elecraft] Computer Monitor Recommendations

[krug261--- via Elecraft]

I realize this subject has come up several times in the past; I've been through 
the archives. However, computer equipment changes all the time. I am in the 
market for a new "quiet" monitor for the station. Are there monitors people 
would happily recommend? Conversely, are there brands/models you would keep 
away from? Or even a type of monitor you would not recommend for a shack?

Thanks and 73, Bob, KA2TQV

KX3, KXPA100, PX3
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[Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[Robert G Strickland via Elecraft]

Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel 
insulation from wires for winding toroids.


The instruction say:
-dip in a solder pot which I don't have
-use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which has 
never worked for me.


Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned off 
any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just doesn't 
happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but whichever, 
the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to scrape 
off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict when 
enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.


...robert

--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

[hawley, charles j jr]

The Elecraft manual says the condenser type MH4 mic is acceptable for use on 
the K2, but I don't see any bias for it in the K2 or SSB2 schematics. I never 
had a mic for the K2 so I thought I'd get the MH4 and maybe use it on my K3s as 
well.
Am I missing something? Is there bias for it on the K2?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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[Elecraft] [KX3] Oppopsite Sideband Null question - Redux

[Grant Youngman]

Elecraft Tech Support seems (understandably) a bit slow to respond at this 
point.   This is a repeat of a question I asked a few days ago.  Maybe someone 
else will see it and have some insight (?).

I have redone the opposite sideband null procedure in my KX3 (#8342) with KXFL3 
filter board, using both the 2013 per-band null procedure, and the 2015 KXFL3 
installation/calibration instructions.  The procedures are essentially the 
same, with a minor difference in RIT setting, and the fact that the KXFL3 
installation manual calls this out only on 20M rather than on each band 
individually.

With my XG3 as a signal source,  I get an excellent opposite sideband null 
using either FL1 or FL2 bandwidth settings on all bands.  With narrow bandwidth 
and FL3 switched in, the null is very broad and shallow, and the opposite 
sideband is reduced only on the order of 10dB (+/-) rather than the very deep 
nulls (60+ dB) obtainable with FL1/FL2.  As a result, the opposite sideband 
remains clearly audible when tuning across a signal — say CW at 500 Hz 
bandwidth, etc.

If anyone else out there has done either of these procedures, did you get as 
deep a null with FL3 as with FL1/FL2?  I’m trying to determine if this is 
normal, or if there's an issue in the radio, possibly with my KXFL3 board.

Thanks … Grant NQ5T
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[Elecraft] SOLD Re: Elecraft AT1 40db attenuator - $39

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

Paul Gacek

> On Jun 11, 2020, at 3:28 PM, Paul Gacek  wrote:
> 
> I have an unbuilt XG50 kit.
> 
> Details are our favorite web site …..
> 
> https://elecraft.com/products/at1-step-attenuator-kit
> 
> New from Elecraft is $59, I’m asking $39.
> 
> Paypal only to paul.ga...@gmail.com  
> 
> Ship to USA addresses only. $10 shipping.
> 
> Paul
> W6PNG/M0SNA
> www.nomadic.blog
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[Elecraft] SOLD Re: FS: Unbuilt Elecraft XG50 signal source - $29

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

Paul Gacek

> On Jun 11, 2020, at 3:37 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have an unbuilt XG50 kit.
> 
> Details are our favorite web site …..
> 
> https://elecraft.com/products/xg50-test-oscillator
> 
> New from Elecraft is $49, I’m asking $29.
> 
> Paypal only to paul.ga...@gmail.com   
> 
> Ship to USA addresses only. $10 shipping.
> 
> Paul
> W6PNG/M0SNA
> www.nomadic.blog 
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[Elecraft] SOLD Re: FS: Elecraft BL2 Kit unbuilt and complete - $29 plus shipping

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

Paul Gacek

> On Jun 11, 2020, at 2:55 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have an unbuilt BL2 kit.
> 
> Details are our favorite web site …..
> 
> https://elecraft.com/collections/bl2-model/products/bl2-balun 
> 
> 
> New from Elecraft is $49, I’m asking $29.
> 
> Paypal only to paul.ga...@gmail.com   
> 
> Ship to USA addresses only. $10 shipping.
> 
> Paul
> W6PNG/M0SNA
> www.nomadic.blog 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Q codes

[E.H. Russell]

It used to be fun as net control on 80 back in the 50s when my call sign was
K5QNF.

Ed / W2RF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Andy Durbin
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 5:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Q codes

"Who knew there were so many Q-codes :)"

My favorite from my time as a teenager in the cadet force signals wing was
QUQ.  I had remembered it as "Shall I point my searchlight at a cloud,
occulting if necessary, in order to pinpoint my position".

Either my memory is playing tricks on me or the meaning changed a bit over
the years.  The definition I found now is "Shall I train my searchlight
nearly vertical on a cloud, occulting if possible and, if your aircraft is
seen, deflect the beam up wind and on the water (or land) to facilitate your
landing?"

Either way, not a code that comes up in most QSO.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time setting

[E.H. Russell]

Bob,

 

Thanks for the scope shot and info. I compared the waveform to the QST K3S 
review, which seems to show a little over 10ms before RF appears. Is this 
because they used different settings?

 

Will be interesting to see how the new radio CW looks in time and frequency 
domains. Also how the turnaround latency is managed.

 

Tks,

73 Ed w2rf

 

 

 

From: Bob Wilson, N6TV  
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 2:05 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Cc: E.H. Russell 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time setting

 

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:31 PM E.H. Russell mailto:e...@qrv.com> > wrote:

I suppose shaping of the curve corners removes harmonics introduced by the 
abrupt transitions, allowing an accelerated ramp inbetween. But does this 
really reduce the total rise time to 2.5ms? It seems that the softening process 
must take some time. Wish I had a K3 here to scope against other radios. 
Anything published out there?

 

Ed,

 

Per your request, I am publishing this scope screen capture which plots the CW 
rise time in my K3 with the KSYN3A synthesizer upgrade.  It's about 4 ms from 0 
RF to full RF (2 ms per horizontal division):

 

https://www.kkn.net/~n6tv/N6TV_K3_Ser_1494_FW_05.64_TX_DLY_8_CW_QRQ_OFF.png

 

The vertical markers are there to illustrate that CONFIG:TX DLY nor 008  
provides only about 6 ms of RF delay after "KEY OUT" goes to ground, not 8 ms, 
and there is jitter in that delay as well (not shown).  If CW QRQ mode is 
enabled, the delay drops to about 4.6 ms and the TX DLY setting is completely 
ignored.

 

This was discussed here two years ago.  See this post for suggestions on how to 
avoid hot-switching a non-Elecraft amplifier driven by a K3 or K3S:

 

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Default-K3-transmit-delay-may-be-too-short-for-slow-QRO-amplifiers-td7641779.html
  

 

73,

Bob, N6TV

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Re: [Elecraft] FS: KXPA100 with ATU

[Dean L]

My smartphone adjusted my reply.

It was supposed to say-


EBAY Charges a VIG that we HAMS with integrity don't need to pay.

No wonder good hams have a bad taste in their moth for PayPal.

Your Milage certainly will vary

Things sure are different.

Rant over
73 all
Dean


On Fri, Jun 12, 2020, 01:55 Dean L  wrote:

> That's awfully nice of you.
>
> When one of these buyers rips you off through EBAY, saying your 100% FB
> equipment is not "100% FB" you will change your mind.
> EBAY is for scoundrels, not Hams with integrity.
> Hence the "Vig" we Had don't pay!
>
> 73
> Dean K2WW
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 11, 2020, 22:52 Paul Gacek  wrote:
>
>> Hi Dean
>>
>> Fair question and at close to a thousand bucks, I want to give buyers the
>> protection that eBay and PayPal offer.
>>
>> Part of that is looking at my past transaction history and taking
>> whatever comfort (or not) from that.
>>
>> Paul Gacek
>>
>> > On Jun 11, 2020, at 7:41 PM, Dean L  wrote:
>> >
>> > Why would you pay Epay their "cut" when you have the entire elecraft
>> > audience at your findertips?
>> > 73
>> > Dean/K2WW
>> >
>> >> On Thu, Jun 11, 2020, 14:14 Paul Gacek via Elecraft <
>> >> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I listed one of my pair on eBay if anyone is interested.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Elecraft-KXPA100-100w-amplifier-and-ATU-excellent-condition-Factory-build/203018788430?hash=item2f44dcde4e:g:f7kAAOSw9Dle4m6R
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Paul
>> >> W6PNG/M0SNA
>> >> www.nomadic.blog
>> >> __
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>> >>
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>> >> Message delivered to dean.k...@gmail.com
>> >>
>> > __
>> > Elecraft mailing list
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>>
>>
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