Re: [Elecraft] VFO B dead

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Gary,
Before you order a new encoder, remove the front panel and swap the two 
encoders (they are the same), put the radio back together, and see what you 
observe when tuning both the A and B VFOs.

Dick, K8ZTTT

 





Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man.  What is first, you ask? 
Landing, of course. 



 

On Monday, January 27, 2020, 11:23:23 AM MST, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Gary,

You have to remove the front panel assembly.  The encoder must be 
removed from the rear of the Front Panel.

It is not difficult, try it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/27/2020 10:59 AM, Gary K9GS wrote:
> Thank you Vic and others.It's been a long time since I assembled my K3. I 
> reviewed the assembly documentation last night. I did not remember that the 
> encoders plug into the PCBA. It looks like a pretty straightforward 
> disassembly and reassembly.Vic asked if the encoder could have come 
> unplugged, possibly in shipping when my K3 was back at Elecraft. I'm not sure 
> how that could happen since the encoder is attached to the front panel with a 
> nut. The nut and the VFO knob would have to both be missing for that to 
> happen. I just wonder if since I have to take the whole front panel off to 
> replace, should I just order replacements?Does anyone know if the encoders 
> can be replaced if I remove the knob and nut without taking the front panel 
> off?If I get some time this week I'll open up the K3 and take a look.73,Gary 
> K9GS
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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Hum in TX Data Mode

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Conrad,
I had the same problem a few years ago when I placed my Alpha 9500 on the left 
side of my K3S.  After much perturbation, I finally figured what the issue was. 
 The power supply for the Alpha 9500 is on the right side of the Amp, and the 
isolation transformers for the line in and line out are on the left side of the 
K3 (K3S).  When in such proximity, the magnetic fields interact, and induce hum 
when using line in on the Elecraft radios.   My solution ended up being easy.  
The transformer in my Alpha was an old type, and I was able to switch it out 
with the new model with (I think) is a toroidal core, and that solved the 
problem.
Dick, K8ZTT 

 







I put up a new 6m antenna mainly for EME and I was so looking forward to
using my K3S. The RX is great, I run it in parallel with 2 other receivers
and it works very well on EME. However try as I might I cannot get rid of
some quite bad hum on the TX Audio. I am using USB and before you ask yes I
have got a low impedance ground from the PC to the K3S although removing it
makes absolutely no difference.  What did make a difference was moving the
radio away from sources of magnetic fields such as monitors. However I
cannot get rid of it completely. It also increases or at least changes when
I put my hands on the radio. 

I have a few other radios located nearby and close to a monitor, pc or PSU
and they do not suffer from this at all. Is this a common problem, is it a
bad ground in the audio path internally or magnetic coupling into an audio
transformer?

It is completely impractical for me to move my radios 10 feet from any
magnetic fields. Short of wrapping the radio in mu metal I really do not
seem to be able to fix this.

Any ideas? I have read and understood and followed Jim K9YC's advice and
this works perfectly for my other 3 radios. I am really at a loss.

73

Conrad PA5Y
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Tom,
Where did you come up with one does not need to run more than 250 W using FT8?? 
 I have never read that anywhere in the literature I have read about FT8.
How many countries have you worked on 160M using 50 or so watts?  I have worked 
more than one country on 160M using 1500 watts feeding a pair of phased 
verticals and have received a signal report below -20db.  I highly doubt 250W 
would have been sufficient. 
A good rule is to run the minimum power necessary to make the contact; and yes, 
many times 250W is way more than you need.
Dick, K8ZTT 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Mar 22, 2019 at 20:03, TJ Campie wrote:   You 
do not need to run 250w on ft8
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bricked HELP!!

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Bob,
If you are trying to use the USB port after a failed firmware update,   you 
need to either use the RS-232 port or take  the top cover off and the change 
the little switch on the board (can't remember the name of it)  the USB and RS 
232 ports are on to USB position.  The you can use the USB port for a forced 
download. After you are done, move the switch back to the other position.
Dick, K8ZTT 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 13:34, Don Wilhelm wrote:   
Bob,

Since you had an ERR PTT indication in the midst of all this, unplug all 
cables except the USB cable and the Power Cable.  Connect ANT1 to a 
dummy load.

Then open K3 Utility and open its Help file.  Look for "Force a Firmware 
Download" and follow those instructions (the instructions are also in 
the manual).

After you are again up and running, plug each of your cables in one at a 
time and recycle power after each cable.  If you see an ERR PTT, 
investigate that cable.  It could be as simple as a closed paddle or key 
contact, or a mic cable that has PTT stuck on.  Or it could be more 
complicated depending on what else you have in your station.

ERR PTT means that either a key or a mic PTT closure was detected when 
the K3 was turned on.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/24/2019 3:03 PM, Bob DeHaney wrote:
> Trouble started with no reception on 14 or 24 mHz.  Reloaded configuration 
> file which got reception back, but had a continuous ERR PTT.  Attempted a 
> complete firmware reload.  K3 hung at MCU LD with all buttons inoperative.  I 
> then tried the recovery procedure in the K3 Utility Help section.  The K3 
> comes on without backlight, and transmit blinking and MCU LD in the display.  
> The K3 Utility cannot open the port.  I’m stuck.  This K3 has all K3S 
> upgrades including USB, etc. I have also tried rebooting the computer with 
> and without USB connected.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Line Out (stereo)

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 Like Walter, I use the Behringer HA-400 with my K3 on Field Day.  You can have 
up to four individuals on headphones (no earthly idea why you would have four), 
and each can control the volume to their headsets.  If you have visitors and 
want to use the speaker too, that can be done in the menu setting to have both 
speaker and headphones on.
Never had a problem with RFI, but we are only running the K3 barefoot.   
Dick, K8ZTT
On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 9:14:54 AM MST, K9MA  
wrote:  
 
 On 1/16/2019 10:00, Walter Underwood wrote:
> When I need to drive two sets of headphones, I use a $25 Behringer HA400 
> headphone distribution amp.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone/dp/B000KIPT30

Any trouble with RFI?

73,

Scott K9MA

-- 
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Don,
Yep, my bad. I re-read it, and you are right.  Thanks for the correction. 
Dick, K8ZTT
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 12:24, Don Wilhelm wrote:   
Dick and Chuck,

Please read the description for the BAT MIN on page 54 of the Owner's 
Manual again.
It explicitly states that BAT MIN refers to the main 12v power supply to 
the K3 and NOT to the 3 volt lithium battery.

Check the power supply voltage as read in the ALT VFO B DISPLAY. That 
gives you the voltage seen inside the K3 and if you have voltage drops 
at the connectors for the power cable, it will be shown there.
The usual setting for BAT MIN is 11 volts.

You will NOT be "good to go" even if you replace the lithium 3 volt battery.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 1:56 PM, RIchard Williams wrote:
> Chuck
>
> An not sure where the people answering your question are obtaining 
> their dis-information from.   In any case, the K3 does indeed have a 3 
> V lithium on the main board.  It is used to power the clock, and it 
> can last from 2 to 10 years.
>
> It is a CR 2032 cell and is located  on the left front side on the RF 
> board.
>
> This information is on page 59 of the K3 assembly manual. 
> Additionally,  it is also on page 54  BAT MIN in the Owner's Manual.
>
> Replace the battery and you will be good to go.
>
>

  
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Chuck 
An not sure where the people answering your question are obtaining their 
dis-information from.   In any case, the K3 does indeed have a 3 V lithium on 
the main board.  It is used to power the clock, and it can last from 2 to 10 
years.
It is a CR 2032 cell and is located  on the left front side on the RF board.
This information is on page 59 of the K3 assembly manual.  Additionally,  it is 
also on page 54  BAT MIN in the Owner's Manual. 
Replace the battery and you will be good to go.
Dick, K8ZTT 
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 7:04, hawley, charles j jr 
wrote:   Oh rats...an RTC battery warning would have been a plus.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 13, 2019, at 6:55 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Then check the power supply voltage (Use the alternate VFB B display) and all 
> connectors.
> That message has nothing to do with the RTC battery.
> 
> There is no internal battery in the K3 other than the tiny RTC battery.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 1/13/2019 12:01 AM, Mpridesti wrote:
>> Don
>> 
>> It is a K3.  Bought it used and carries a low serial number. Never have 
>> changed the internal battery (over 8 years in my possession).
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Mark, K1RX
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jan 12, 2019, at 11:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I assume you mean the KX3.  The K3 has no internal battery.
>>> 
>>> If you have Ni-MH batteries, they need recharging.  If you are using 
>>> Alkaline batteries, they need to be replaced.  I assume you have set the 
>>> menu BAT MIN for the type of battery you are using.  See the KX3 manual 
>>> page 36 of the manual.
>>> 
>>> Set BAT MIN for the type batteries used.  The default of 10 volts is good 
>>> for external Lead Acid batteries.  All other types require a different 
>>> setting.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
 On 1/12/2019 10:40 PM, Mpridesti via Elecraft wrote:
 Just saw a message pop up saying Battery Low
 Assume this is the internal battery requires replacement?
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 problem

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Roy,
The very first thing you do is attach a dummy load to the antenna jack on the 
back of he amp and isolate the problem to the amp or feedline and/or antenna.  
If you don't have one, you should purchase one right away.
I have seen the type of fault many times, and a good percentage of the it is 
not the amp.  One fault I have seen more than once is using high power into a 
load with high SWR.  That develops very high voltages on the coax, and it arcs 
through.  Once that happens, you need to find the issue with the antenna and 
replace the coax.
Dick, K8ZTT
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Dec 31, 2018 at 5:56, Roy Koeppe wrote:   

" My KPA1500 (s/n 121) has developed a problem:
When applying power (15-20W) from the K3 to the amp, it immediately faults 
to:low gain fault ratio 3 (sometimes ratio 2 to ratio 6). The SWR indicator 
shows high SWR as the amp faults. 100w only from exciter will cause ATU to 
tune to 1:1 but when amp is switched on, it immediately faults as above. 
Looked through archives and manual. No mention of this particular fault. Any 
ideas would be appreciated."

I have had that exact same thing happen, and tracked it down to bad WW2 
transmitting micas in my 160M Omega-match at the antenna feedpoint. 
Something is likely breaking down, as someone else just commented. Luck & 
73,

Roy    K6XK 


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Re: [Elecraft] Second K3

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 Dennis,
Like yourself, I had a K3  (#8331) that was fully loaded (upgraded it with all 
the new boards).  Purchased the K3S with the 100W amp, tuner, and 400 Hz filter 
at Dayton the year it was released, and ended up building serial number 10038.  
I tore out the sub receiver, Voice Recorder, three additional filters in the 
main and sub receiver, and High Stability Ref Oscillator from the K3, and moved 
them to the K3S.
My K3 options were now the 100W amp, tuner, and 400 Hz filter, and it became my 
standby radio (I have used it at Field Day for the CW station for the last few 
years).
So, yes; if you do not need to sell it for financial reasons, I would suggest 
you keep it.
Dick, K8ZTT
On Sunday, November 25, 2018, 1:47:18 PM MST, Dennis L. Haarsager 
 wrote:  
 
 I just ordered one of the K3S Black Friday packages that includes a
subreceiver.  I already have a nicely equipped K3 (but no subreceiver) and
am wondering if I should sell it or if I'd find it still useful enough to
keep.  Would like to hear advice from others who have upgraded to a K3S
*with* subreceiver and kept their K3.  Is the original rig still valuable
to you?

Tnx and 73,
Dennis, N7DH/1

-- 
598 Haley Rd, Kittery Point, ME 0390 USA
+1 207-703-2472 (home) | +1 202-431-1556 (mobile) | +44 (0)7944 510833 (UK
mobile)
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stuck in MCU Load

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

IF you are using the USB connection to the computer, you need to either switch 
to the RS 232 port and use that;  OR take the cover off the K3 and move the 
little slide switch on the KIO3B board to the opposite position.  You can then 
use the USB method.   After you have re-installed the firmware, move the switch 
back to the other position.
IF your KIO3B board does not have the small switch,  it is an older board and 
you have to use a RS232 cable.  Check with Elecraft, and they will probably 
switch boards to the newer one with the switch.
I had the same issue awhile back.
Dick, K8ZTT
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Sep 29, 2018 at 11:45, Mike Cizek W0VTT wrote:   
Greetings - 

I appear to have really #@(*)(*% up my K3.  While updating the firmware,
I accidentally hit either a key on the computer keyboard or one of the mouse
buttons.  The K3 Utility window "grayed out" and the K3 is stuck in MCU
Load, no backlight, TX LED flashing.

Setup: Astron 50A PSU; K3 # 2768 with new KIO3B board; direct USB connection
to Lenovo Thinkpad running WIN7 Home Premium; K3 Util v 1.16.7.25.  Computer
and K3 Utility both recognize the COM port; latest FTDI drivers installed.

Yes, I know there is supposed to be a cure for this, but it didn't work.  I
tried:

1. Restarting both the computer and the K3 a few times.
2. Remove & reconnect power supply from K3, hold POWER button to force it
into bootloader mode. (which it is already in)
3. Factory reset (power on while holding SHIFT/LO button). Never got the EE
INIT message.
4. Uninstall and re-install K3 Utility and try 1-3 again.
5. Uninstall and re-install front panel assembly; try 1-3 again.

K3 Utility is still trying to connect and the TX LED is still flashing.  Any
ideas before I call tech support on Monday?  Thanks.

-- 
73,
Mike Cizek WØVTT

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Audio settings

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Josh,
Theoretically, the answer is yes.  From the FAQ blurb on the Elecraft site: 
"Redesigned speakeramplifier -  Stereo speaker outputs now have lower total 
harmonic distortion(THD) for reduced listening fatigue".
Dick, K8ZTT
     On Monday, September 3, 2018, 8:56:45 AM MDT, Josh Fiden 
 wrote:  
 
 I have two original K3. Wondering if I missed something. The "S" has 
improvements to receive audio? Or is this just referring to the new synthesizer?

Thanks & 73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device

> On Sep 3, 2018, at 7:24 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX 

> Then came along the K3S with its advertised improvements.  Namely in receive 
> audio.  

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 PSU mounting position

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Hopefully Eric or Wayne will chime in and answer this question once and for 
all.  Since warm air has a tendency to rise,  I could see where placement could 
be an issue. 
An answer "straight from the horse's mouth" would hopefully put this issue to 
bed.
Dick, K8ZTT

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 21:30, Bill Stravinsky via 
Elecraft wrote:Interesting.  I just told my 
friend W2irt that it was OK for vertical mounting of the power supply from the 
several posts on here a few months ago and I thought onewas from Elecraft.  Its 
hard to imagine vertical placement of the power supply being a problem.  It 
never even approaches getting warm unlike the rf deck.
BillK3WJV

    On Monday, August 20, 2018, 12:24:55 PM EDT, Bob via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Well maybe this requires a reply from Elecraft.  They seem to be furnishing 
conflicting information on this. I asked that question and here is the reply I 
received:



Elecraft:  Placement of the power supply can be anywhere within the 5.5 ft 
distance of the power supply cable and control cables, both of which are 5.5 
ft. 
  Air passing through the power supply is from left to right in a horizontal 
manner.  This means that it will not work properly standing on its side.


Seems logical that setting it on the side would restrict the air flow severely. 
I'd have liked to place mine vertically on its side but did not based on this. 
Mine sits  under the desk on a riser so I did not lose foot space.  I did not 
require easy access to the switch as I totally kill the equipment circuits in 
the shack at shutdown.

73,
Bob
K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR

On 8/20/2018 9:33 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> Before mine arrived a few weeks ago I put exactly that question to Elecraft 
> Support.  The reply was that there would be no problem mounting the PS 
> vertically, so long as the air clearances are observed for the air flow -- I 
> believe it's three inches at the top and at the rear, but the manual is 
> pretty clear on that.  I've mounted mine that way.  When sitting on its side 
> the On-Off switch is conveniently near the top-rear edge.  Works FB.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
>      --
>      
>      Message: 21
>      Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 00:09:09 -0400
>      From: "Peter Dougherty" 
>      To: 
>      Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 PSU mounting position
>      Message-ID: <004401d4383b$8c21ac70$a4650550$@net>
>          
>      Hi All,
>      My KPA-1500 arrived over the weekend and I've not gotten a chance yet to 
>set it
>      up. In looking at both the amp and the power supply I noticed both have 
>carrying
>      handles and rubber feet. Are these rubber feet just there for 
>transporting the
>      untis, or can the power supply actually be run vertically with equal 
>efficiency
>      and cooling as it would be horizontally? If so, that would fit my 
>operating desk
>      perfectly.
>      
>      
>      
>      Thanks in advance.
>      Regards,
>      Peter W2IRT

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 status info

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 
For those tracking delivery of the KPA1500.  I ordered mine on Aug 25 (order 
#110453) and received it today (serial number 158).
Dick, K8ZTT  
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Rx Diversity

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 Chuck,
All you need to do is run your RX Ant into the BNC connector labeled RX IN,  
Then run a short cable with BNC males on each in between the RX OUT and the AUX 
in (under the PL259 connector for ant 1 and 2)..  Works great,  when you go to 
diverse receive, the main receiver is listening on your receive antenna, and 
sub receiver will be listening on your transmit antenna.
Seems a lot of individuals do not know this "trick", but I have been using this 
setup for several years.
Dick, K8ZTT 
On Monday, March 12, 2018, 6:40:04 PM MDT, Chuck Chandler 
 wrote:  
 
 All this talk about how great Diversity is had me wondering, but when I try
it out I realized I had to move the receiving antenna to the Aux RF jack.
The Kady boom mentions using an RF splitter to allow the receive antgenna
to be used for both purposes.

What have other members of the list used for this purpose?  Seems like a
fairly broadband, low noise amp would do pretty well.

73 de Chuck, WS1L

-- 


===
Chuck Chandler
chandler...@gmail.com
===
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 For Pete's (or fill in your own noun) sake, I can't believe all the hubbub 
about moving a box from the front porch to the basement!!  Unless Bill is a 
hermit, how about asking another amateur radio operator in the area to help 
out; or a next door neighbor?   Unless I am living in a different world of 
amateur radio, I have never had a problem finding another "ham" to help me when 
needed; and I have helped out many other amateurs since I have been in the 
hobby since 1961.
My two cents worth.
Dick, K8ZTT
     
On Sunday, February 25, 2018, 10:10:45 AM MST, Alan  wrote: 
 
 
 Or go to Walmart and buy a $30 hand truck.

Alan N1AL


On 02/25/2018 07:44 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> No special arrangements should be necessary.
> When the large box is delivered, he can open it (without any need to 
> lift it), and remove the two boxes one at a time.
> 
> If he cannot easily remove the two boxes from the larger one because it 
> is a tight fit, it is easy to bend one flap down and roll the box over 
> that flap and over again so the box is sitting on its open end.  Then it 
> is easy to lift the outer box off with no struggle.
> The way the gear is packaged, it will survive that "rolling over" with 
> no harm at all.
> 
> I do that regularly at trade shows for the K3, and more recently the 
> KPA1500 because it is difficult to lift the units vertically out of the 
> box due to the tight fit and the resistance of the foam shipping 
> material to the sides of the box.  Much easier to roll it over and lift 
> off the box.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 2/25/2018 3:53 AM, G4GNX wrote:
> 
>>
>> What Bill wants is two SEPARATE boxes to be shipped to him, without an 
>> outer wrapper to combine them. He wants to be able to carry EACH box 
>> separately from his door to his shack, so that he doesn't strain his 
>> back.
>>
>> Perhaps special arrangements can be made for Bill? My other suggestion 
>> would be to have the package delivered to the front door, then remove 
>> each box individually and carry them separately indoors.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 And WSJT-X FT8 Timing

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 Jim,
Check the Settings/ Advanced tab and make sure you have the Tx Delay box set to 
.1 seconds, and not to 1 second.
Dick, K8ZTT


On Friday, February 23, 2018, 12:35:18 PM MST, James Bennett <w6...@me.com> 
wrote:  
 
 Made changes to my “radio” tab as suggested below and I see some improvement, 
and wondering if this is what I should expect: At the “zero” time mark, the rig 
red TX light comes on and at the +1 second mark, RF /ALC is happening. Expected 
behavior? or should the RF/ALC start at the same time as the red TX light?

Both the K3 and KX3 are exhibiting the same response.

Jim / W6JHB

> On Feb 23, 2018, at 10:32 AM, Walter Underwood <wun...@wunderwood.org> wrote:
> 
> Systems haven’t used two stop bits for decades. I’ve never set a system to 
> two stop bits and I was supporting a big UUCP node at Hewlett-Packard in the 
> late 1980’s.
> 
> wunder
> Walter Underwood
> wun...@wunderwood.org <mailto:wun...@wunderwood.org>
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ <http://observer.wunderwood.org/>  (my blog)
> 
>> On Feb 23, 2018, at 9:58 AM, RIchard Williams via Elecraft 
>> <elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> When setting up radio settings in WSJT-X for the K3/K3S, I keep seeing 
>> different settings for the number of stop bits (one and two) popping up on 
>> the reflector.    Am not sure where TWO stop bits is coming from???  On page 
>> 20 of the K3S manual (page 18 of the K3 manual), left hand column, Serial 
>> Port Setup,  it states "Software should be set up at the same rate: 8 data 
>> bits, no parity, 1 stop bit".
>> Have no idea why the Radio set window in WSJT-X defaults to TWO stop bits 
>> when you select Elecraft K3/K3S.  Initially, I did not catch this, and I was 
>> encountering problems with my K3S remaining in transmit mode more often than 
>> not after a transmission.  Once I changed to ONE stop bit, my problem 
>> magically went away.
>> 
>> What I have set up is:
>> Rig: Elecraft K3/K3S , Polling interval: 1sec
>> CAT control: COM 13 (which is a virtual com port set up with LP-Bridge with 
>> my setup, your setting will be whatever com port are using).
>> Baud rate: 38,400
>> Data Bits, Stop Bits, and Handshake:  8, none, 1.
>> PTT method: CAT
>> Mode: Data/Pkt
>> Split Operation:  Rig
>> 
>> DIck, K8ZTT
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3 And WSJT-X FT8 Timing

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 When setting up radio settings in WSJT-X for the K3/K3S, I keep seeing 
different settings for the number of stop bits (one and two) popping up on the 
reflector.    Am not sure where TWO stop bits is coming from???  On page 20 of 
the K3S manual (page 18 of the K3 manual), left hand column, Serial Port Setup, 
 it states "Software should be set up at the same rate: 8 data bits, no parity, 
1 stop bit".
Have no idea why the Radio set window in WSJT-X defaults to TWO stop bits when 
you select Elecraft K3/K3S.   Initially, I did not catch this, and I was 
encountering problems with my K3S remaining in transmit mode more often than 
not after a transmission.  Once I changed to ONE stop bit, my problem magically 
went away.

What I have set up is:
Rig: Elecraft K3/K3S , Polling interval: 1sec
CAT control: COM 13 (which is a virtual com port set up with LP-Bridge with my 
setup, your setting will be whatever com port are using).
Baud rate: 38,400
Data Bits, Stop Bits, and Handshake:  8, none, 1.
PTT method: CAT
Mode: Data/Pkt
Split Operation:  Rig

DIck, K8ZTT
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 And WSJT-X FT8 Timing

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 Richard,
I had a similar problem with the K3S not stopping transmit.  Finally fixed it 
by changing the stop bit in the radio settings from two to one.
Dick, K8ZTT 
On Thursday, February 22, 2018, 9:32:59 PM MST, Richard 
 wrote:  
 
 Maybe I’m missing something, but the “timing” problem with which some of us 
are fighting has nothing to do with computer clock accuracy. Even if the 
computer time is off, it’s the only time reference WSJT-X has to work with.

So the instant the computer tells the software it’s time to transmit, BANG! 
WSJT-X goes into transmit RIGHT NOW, as it should, late or not, the software 
doesn’t know and doesn’t care.

Our problem is that when WSJT-X goes into Transmit at the top of the new 
segment and tells the K3S to transmit, the K3S DOESN’T transmit. Its almost 
always late by 2 or 3, sometimes 4 or 5 full seconds. In my case, it eventually 
doesn’t transmit AT ALL!

That’s not a software problem or a computer clock problem. It looks like a K3S 
problem, and I’d sure like to see the solution before I dump this radio.

Richard - W4KBX

> On Feb 22, 2018, at 8:36 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> If you are seeing a majority of the decodes in which the DT is less than <0.5 
> seconds, your computer clock is close enough for reliable contacts and 
> decodes.  The software should handle decodes with a DT up to 2.0 seconds, but 
> in many cases this depends largely {very largely in fact} on signal quality.  
> Both as transmitted and received.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> 
> On 2/22/2018 7:28 PM, Nr4c wrote:
>> Check the clocks on the computers. Sync them to a time server.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub RX Deaf??

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 Chris,
First make sure you have your filter configuration set correctly (including 
offsets, etc).   I highly recommend you use the K3 Utility to Configure the 
Crystal filters.  You didn't mention how you set up your K3 as far as antenna 
input to the sub receiver.  I use the BNC connector on the back of the K3.  A 
couple times when I found the sub receiver deaf, it was a matter of "operator 
error" with one of my big paws "holding" rather than tapping toe RX Antenna 
button.  The net affect of that is switching the input from Main to Aux.  A 
quick push and hold of the RX Antenna button to go back to Main does wonders to 
fix that issue!!!   Also, make sure you have the KRX3 option in the 
Configuration Menu set correctly (mine is set to Ant-bnc).
Good luck finding the probem
Dick, K8ZTT
On Sunday, February 11, 2018, 1:43:45 PM MST, Chris Soames 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi Just fitted SubRx into my K3 nothing heard only background noise, no 
matter what ant configuration or other setting,
SubRx appears to be deaf?

Oh dear where to next?

Chris G0TZZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Macro for setup of K3S for WSJT

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Bill,
Thanks for info; you know, I did not know about switching to Data A switches 
the input to line in.
I have a AM filter, but am not sure with band with FT8 uses, what advantage a 
wider filter  than the stock SSB filter has.
Dick,  K8ZTT 

Sent from Yahoo Mail ohave an Android 
 
  On Tue, Dec 12, 2017 at 23:09, Bill Frantz<fra...@pwpconsult.com> wrote:   My 
experience is that if you set wsjt-x to use rig control, just 
starting to monitor does most of the work. I end up in Data-A 
mode. This automatically sets the mic sel to Link In. I already 
have a macro to open up the bandwidth, which automatically sets 
the filter to my FM filter. My macro for bandwidth is :

  IS 1450;BW0230;

Note that this macro doesn't open up the bandwidth to the full 
4K, which I do by turning the knobs. The K3 remembers the last 
bandwidth I used, so I don't have to manually change it very often.

I hope this helps.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 12/13/17 at 8:58 PM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (RIchard 
Williams via Elecraft) wrote:

>Before I beat my head against the wall (or re-invent the 
>wheel); does someone have a micro to setup the K3S (or K3) for 
>WSJT-X.  What I am looking for is:
> 1.  Set the mode to TX Data
>2.  Set mic sel to Line In
>3.  Set the filter to FL2 (2.7 KHz in my case)
>4.  Open up the pass band width to max
>I think that is it; but I might have missed something??
>Thanks,
>Dick, K8ZTT

---
Bill Frantz        | "The only thing we have to  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | fear is fear itself." - FDR  | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | Inaugural address, 3/4/1933  | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032
  
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[Elecraft] Macro for setup of K3S for WSJT

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Before I beat my head against the wall (or re-invent the wheel); does someone 
have a micro to setup the K3S (or K3) for WSJT-X.  What I am looking for is:
 1.  Set the mode to TX Data
2.  Set mic sel to Line In
3.  Set the filter to FL2 (2.7 KHz in my case)
4.  Open up the pass band width to max
I think that is it; but I might have missed something??
Thanks,
Dick, K8ZTT
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 with P3 Transmit Monitor

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

James,
Am not sure why you need a tuner between the radio and the amp in the first 
place??  As of now, I have my K3S or K3 driving a Alpha 9500.  I never have 
used the tuner in either when driving the amp?  I assume the KPA9500 will have 
a 52 ohm input, and you would not need a tuner.
Dick, K8ZTT

  From: James Wilson 
 To: Elecraft  
 Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:54 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 with P3 Transmit Monitor
   
Looking at a draft of the KPA1500 amplifier, it appears
that the only place to install  a TxMon or Wattmeter coupler
is at the  -  output  -  of the built-in tuner.

At that point, it will always show the SWR of the
coax feedline, not the SWR that the amplifier "sees" as
adjusted by the built-in tuner.

Or, is there a coupler built-in inside the KPA1500 ?

What am I missing?

Jim - W4RKS
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 110v 240v

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Do not fool yourself.  The Quadra is not a 1000W amp.  Try running 1000W out on 
 RTTY and see how long it lasts (if it will even approach that power without 
buenon up).
The amp is a 500W amp; it is rated at 1000 W PEP; that is a BIG difference than 
1000W key down.  The new Elecraft amp is a true 1500W amp that will supply 1500 
W out on RTTY.
Most 120V circuits in a house are not wired for a 35 Amp load.  Your Qudra 
pulls no where near 30 amps.  You can't work around W = I x E;  fill in the 
blanks.  Here is are the specs for a Alpha 9500 for 1500 W out:
Power: 100,120,200,220,240 VAC, 50/60 Hz, selection Automatic. At 240 VAC, 
requires 10 Amps per leg, for a total of 20 Amps.  Note: Although the amplifier 
will operate at 100V, the mains will have to be able to deliver upwards of 35 
amps.

I am sure the new Elecraft amp is in the same ballpark.

Dick, K8ZTT 





Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 15:54, Bert Garcia N8NN wrote:   
My Yaesu Quadra 1,000 watt amplifier works from either 120 VAC or 240 VAC
without changing any wiring.  The power supply recognizes the AC mains
voltage and sets itself appropriately.  Why shouldn't all "modern"
amplifiers do that?  

Bert N8NN
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 mobile?

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Back in the 80's and early 90's, I ran a KW mobile SSB, and never had any 
negative issues.  I used the Hustler Super Resonators (still made and in use by 
many today), and they are rated at 1KW.   I can't remember what automobiles I 
installed it in, but I remember using a much larger battery, and a larger 
alternator.  Was not a good idea to use it with the car not running  
In fact, I still have the amp in the closet; it is a Magnus MA1000B, ran on 12V 
(with the car running, 13.4 or so) and used eight, 31003OD Power Transistors.  
Requires about 60 Watts, for 1000W input.
Dick, K8ZTT



  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: 'Mike Smith VE9AA'  
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, April 14, 2017 11:28 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 mobile?
   
One issue with mobile QRO is the antenna. While a mobile whip/loading coil 
combo can be designed for high power, it becomes difficult to prevent corona 
discharge from the end of the whip while transmitting at high power. 

One fairly common solution decades ago was to mount a copper toilet tank float 
on the end of the antenna. Of course the wind resistance then required guying 
the whip. Since it was typically on the rear of the car, a nylon cord from the 
mid-point to somewhere forward on the roof was common. 

Another approach - back when car bodies were steel - was to extend the whip to 
it could be bent over and tied to the front bumper, turning the car body and 
whip into a small loop antenna. 

Today, it might be hard to establish the necessary distance from the antenna 
while sitting in the car to meet modern RF exposure limits, especially on 20 
meters and up. 

I never went QRO in my car, but had buddies who tinkered with it way back when 
vacuum tubes were "king". Back then I lived in the land of the "California 
Kilowatt" (Southern Calif.). They mounted outboard generators on their car 
engines to handle the power demand. Adding filaments, etc., a kW mobile station 
might require 1.5 or 2 kW of d.c. power to run it. Got a chuckle out of them 
when they'd key the mic to transmit while sitting at a stop light with the 
engine at idle, and the sudden added power demand caused the engine to stall.

73, Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S and Heil PR10

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Don,
Can't argue with the advice in your email; in fact, I think the best response I 
have read.
As for "how you sound" on the other end, one setting no one mentioned is 
transmitter equalizer settings.  I could be wrong, but from what I remember, 
Heil used to sell mics with a freq response tailored to communications.  Now, 
with all the new rigs having the ability to adjust the frequency response to 
match your voice, the new mics are wide range (pro 10 specs are, "Producing 
full articulate sound from 85Hz to 16kHz".   Now, you can adjust the freq 
response of your rig to match your voice.
Having said the above, I have to admit I haven't "played" with the equalizer, 
so my settings are 0 dB across the board.  Might be interesting to hear from a 
few of you that have made changes, how you evaluated your changes, and (in the 
long run) have you found it made any difference.   Additionally, I would think 
what your interests are, will affect what settings you find work the best 
(DXing or ragchewing).
Dick, K8ZTT
  From: Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
 To: 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S and Heil PR10
   
The real bottom line is to use the indication on the K3 (K3S, KX3 and 
KX2) ALC meter.
If you are driving the voice audio up to the 5 to 7 bars level, that is 
correct.  If it is going higher reduce the MIC gain or switch to the low 
mic gain setting.

If it is lower than the 5 to 7 bars, increase the mic gain or switch to 
the high mic gain range.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2017 10:28 PM, RIchard Williams wrote:
> Tom,
>
> I would use whatever setting works the best; if you are receiving good 
> audio reports, "leave sleeping dogs lie".  If your mic gain is set at 
> something reasonable (mine is "9"), I wouldn't worry about what is 
> "suggested".  Too many variables with your voice characteristics; if 
> you are calling a "P5" for an ATNO, you might be speaking a bit louder 
> than working a JA for the 300th time.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S and Heil PR10

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Tom,
I would use whatever setting works the best; if you are receiving good audio 
reports, "leave sleeping dogs lie".  If your mic gain is set at something 
reasonable (mine is "9"), I wouldn't worry about what is "suggested".  Too many 
variables with your voice characteristics; if you are calling a "P5" for an 
ATNO, you might be speaking a bit louder than working a JA for the 300th time.
Dick, K8ZTT

  From: Tom Robertson 
 To: donw...@embarqmail.com 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 7:28 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S and Heil PR10
   
Something isn’t racking then because Fred in his K3s book recommends high for 
the electrek mic.  Per Fred and Heil’s recommendation I am using a Heil BM-10ic 
and have the radio set to High with bias and I get good audio reports.

You have me wondering now?


73,
Tom - KQ5S

On Feb 11, 2017, 8:22 PM -0600, Don Wilhelm , wrote:
> Tom,
>
> Yes, the electret mics typically have high output levels and thus can
> use the low mic gain setting.
>
> In other words, the Heil website has it "backwards". I am not sure Heil
> will be willing to change it.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/11/2017 8:53 PM, Tom wrote:
> > Don,
> > You may be correct. Fred in his book recommends High for Heil mics, both
> > electrek and dynamic where as Heil only recommends High for the electrek.
> >
> > I would have thought if the Heil site was wrong someone would have noticed
> > it by now and Heil would have changed it.
> >
> > I also thought the Heil electrek mics were high output so find it strange
> > that they would not require a low setting.
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Sound Board upgrade for K3

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

I think guy is referencing a "mod" that was first announced on the "blurb" 
sheet Elecraft published on the differences and what would be available at a 
later date to "update" the K3 to be similar to the new K3S.   Theoretically, at 
some future date there was/might be/possibly/maybe not, an upgrade to the audio 
section of the K3.  To date, I have not seen any announcement of such an 
upgrade available.  Quite possibly it moved from the "was" to the "maybe not" 
category.    Maybe Wayne can chime in with some up to date information;  to the 
best of my knowledge, this is the only future update mentioned in the blurb 
that has not become available.
Dick, K8ZTT

  From: Nr4c 
 To: Gary Hembree  
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, December 23, 2016 2:30 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Sound Board upgrade for K3
  
Ok. KIO3B. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Dec 22, 2016, at 10:30 PM, Gary Hembree  wrote:
> 
> Try this:
> http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm#kio3bupkt
> 
> 73
> Gary, N7IR
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Re: [Elecraft] OT:. "High end operator"

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Chas,
You are pretty close;  since amateurs don't use "channels",  high end operators 
are normally General Class (and  Extra Class)  who operate at the high end of 
the HF amateur bands (for example, on 20M SSB,  14,300 and up).
Another possible definition might be an individual who uses Elecraft equipment 
(as compared to a Heathkit HW 101).
Dick. K8ZTT

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 9:18, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:   I 
think it means the "high-end" of the band, such as the upper channels,
38, 39 & 40.

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G
Kopp
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 11:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT:. "High end operator"

Someone please define "high end operator".

Sounds like some form of snobbism worming it's way into the slang of the
hobby  (;-)

73

K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

I installed solar panels on my roof last year, and have had no problems with 
noise from them. 

On the subject of Solar City, I will agee with Wes to stay away from that 
company.    Initially, I contacted Solar City for a bid, and have to say I was 
extremely disappointed with them.  First, they send out a young chick with a 
sales pitch to beat the band, and to "evaluate" an installation.  She came up 
with a plan of 31 panels, at a cost that I felt was on the high side (to say 
the least) and a 20 year loan with a higher interest rate than I expected!!!
She submitted her findings to the company, and several days later a 
'technician" arrived to check out the roof and verify what the chick told me 
they could do.  I went up on the roof with him, and he told me I wasn't suppose 
to be up there with him!!!  Told him it was my damn roof, and if I wanted to be 
up there, that was my prerogative.  He relented, but told me to stay out of the 
pictures he was going to take (fair enough - I'm not that photogenic anyway).   
 First thing he told me was a section of the roof where I wanted 3 panels was 
too steep for their employees to work on (scratch three panels).  When he was 
finished, he told me he would submit his plan to the engineering dept for their 
final approval.
The next thing I got was a call from the sales chick who came out the first 
time; sad news, scratch the 11 panels on the garage because (get this),  their 
"ace professional engineer" (must have graduated last in his class at Podunk 
Univ) said the roof on the garage would not hold the weight of the solar panels 
because  the additional weight of the Glen Martin Engineering 8 Foot  RT-832 
roof mounted tower weighing a whopping 32 POUNDS, the Yaesu G-5400 AZ- EL rotor 
(20 Pounds), the M2 2MCP14 (6 Pounds, M2 436CP30 (5 Pounds), and the weight of 
a 5 ft aluminum mast and 10 ft fiberglass cross boom (weight - at most 15 
Pounds - probably less).   So, he was telling me the additional 80 POUNDS on 
the roof was going to be too much weight on the roof!!!   O well, maybe it 
was the weight of the coax (that I didn't add in) was the final blow?
I told the chick exactly what I thought of there PE Dept; and the idiots must 
not have any idea of what was on the roof (80 lbs of aluminum!).   She did get 
back a few days later and told me the PE Dept agreed with my assessment (not 
they were a bunch of idiots, but at least the part where the roof would have no 
problem holding an additional 80 lbs).  I put them on hold until I looked at 
more estimates, and eventually cancelled out with them. 
I found a local company, and they had no problem with 30 panels (he dropped one 
because of too much shade), and no problem with the three on the one section of 
roof.So, I have solar (30 panels producing 8.25 KW) with micro inverters on 
each panel.  Am using SolarWorld SW275 panels and Enphase M250-60-2LL-S22 
inverters. 
Total price was just under $29,000 divided into two loans.  The first was 
$8,100 interest free loan for the first year; to be payed off with the income 
tax refund of 30% of the cost of the system.  The remain loan was a 12 year 
long just under $29,000 at 2.99%.  This is/was a much better deal than what 
Solar City offered!

Additionally, I had to move the Glen Martin tower to the edge of the garage to 
make room for all the panels;  and the guy helped me move the system to the 
place where it would not interfer with the installation of the panels!!
System has been in for a year, and producing 93% of what was calculated 
(calculations based on weather data).
Bottom line, I would check out local small companies that are not bound by all 
kinds of nit picky rules and restrictions, numerous levels of management and 
depts that all up the price they must charge to pay all the worker bees.
Dick, K8ZTT. 



  From: Wes Stewart 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 6:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system
   
I would not be interested in working with Solar City.

http://watchdog.org/191409/congress-probes-solarcity/

On 7/18/2016 12:05 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
> I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed on my 
> roof.

> Solar City is not interested in working with me on this -

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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Out?

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Jim,
You are so right about the K3(S) manual!  Elecraft pretty much leaves it up to 
your imagination on just how to use it the RX Out BNC connector 
I found a good use for the RX Out to be where you have a separate receive 
antenna (Beverage, HI Z 8, SAL, etc.), and plan on using diversity receive 
(requires the sub receiver).  What you do is connect a short piece of 52 ohm 
cable with BNC males on each end between the RX Ant Out BNC,  and the AUX RF In 
BNC.   With the configuration, a push of the RX Antenna button routes one 
antenna to the Sub Receiver, and the other antenna to the Main Receiver!
Dick, K8ZTT
  From: Jim Miller 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 8:02 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] RX Ant Out?
   
I can't figure out what RX Ant Out does. The K3s users manual is pretty
sparse in it's description.

It appears that the "normal" e.g. Ant1/2 is presented to RX Ant Out when
the RX antenna is selected.

If that is the case then could RX Ant Out be fed to Aux In?

That would make the TX Ant the Aux antenna and would allow for diversity
using this on the Sub RX while RX Ant is going to the Main RX.

Am I missing something? (probably...)

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s & Rx antenna

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Gary,
What I found works very well is to take advantage of the RX ANT IN and OUT BNC 
connectors.    Connect your HI Z (or any other receive antenna - I have both 
the HI Z-8 and  Beverages) to the RX IN BNC connector.  Next find a short piece 
of coax (I happen to have a 2 ft or so piece of RG-400) with BNC connectors on 
both ends and connect one end to the RX ANT OUT, and the other in to the AUG RF 
IN connector.
I have found this set up works well for both receive on either the transmit 
antenna or the RX ANT.  When you switch to Diverse mode, the receive antenna 
will be on the man receiver, and your transmit antenna will be on the sub 
receiver.
Dick, K8ZTT
  From: Gary Smith 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2016 3:16 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3s & Rx antenna
   
My order is in Queue for a K3s. 

I currently have a K3 with sub Rx and have a HI-Z Rx antenna I use 
with the K3. Sometimes I like listening with only the Rx antenna, 
sometimes I like listening from the the Tx antenna. When I use 
diversity I want to hear from both the Rx and main antennae.

With the K3, what I have done with the Rx coax is attach it to a T 
connector with one end attached to the BNC connector {27} Aux RF, 
located below ANT 2 and the other leg connected to the RX ANT - IN on 
the KXV3.

Once I upgrade the two KBPF3 and Sub Rx board, I will migrate the Sub 
RX to the K3s

With the K3s, how should I connect the RX antenna to be most 
effective with the K3s & diversity? As I have it now?

Thanks,

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro for Subrx antenna?

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Barry,
Yes, there is a command that will do exact what you want.   If you take a look 
at the Programmer's  Reference (which you can download on the Elecraft site), 
you will find the command on page 23 in Table 7.  The command is SWT25;
Keep in mind this is a "toggle" command.  The command will toggle the Sub RX 
Ant on and off (just like tapping the RS ANT button on the K3).  You will 
probably want to use this command in combination with other commands to make up 
a macro for whatever you are trying to accomplish.
Dick, K8ZTT
 

  From: Barry N1EU 
 To: elecraft  
 Sent: Monday, February 1, 2016 6:02 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 macro for Subrx antenna?
   
Does anyone know a way to program a K3 macro to set the Subreceiver antenna
selectively to Main or Aux?

Thanks & 73,
Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] Need a second set of eyes... WAS: Re: Price Increase Alert for Feb 4th.

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Clay,
If you are a bit strapped for cash (or just want to wait and see what you 
REALLY need),  rather than a full house of filters, I would put my available 
funds on other "STUFF".  Remember, the filters are ROOFING filters, the DSP 
filter is the work horse for narrowing the passband. 
First thing you have to decide is what type of operator you are; and then 
decide what you need (for instance, if you are not a DXer or contester, the sub 
receiver is most likely not necessary). As for myself, I consider myself a 
"upper middle gun" DXer (top of the honor roll on SSB/Mixed and two short on CW 
- P5 and 3Y0B), and I have the sub receiver, Ant Tuner, KDVR3,  and KTCXO-3.
As for filters, I have the 6.0 KHz, 2.7 KHz, 1.8 KHz, 400 Hz, and the 200 Hz 
filters in both the main and sub receivers. To be honest with you, I have not 
found much use for the 6.0, 1.8, or 200 Hz ones (probably count on one hand the 
times I have used them).  I find the DVR very useful in recording my contacts 
(especially the ESP ones!) and being able to sit back and listen to the contact 
and make sure it was a good one.  If you are into digital modes, he high 
stability osc is nice option.  I would forget about the MH-2 (unless you are 
making up an ARES GO Kit), and spend your money you save on that and 
un-necessary roofing filters on a Heil Pro 7 and/or a Heil PR-10 desk mic. 
If you find you are in dire need of additional ROOFING Filters, you can always 
add them later. Or if you plan on operating FM (which I do not), the FM filter 
might be a good option right now.  If you are a "top dog" contester where you 
have a lot of strong stations near by,  an additional roofing filter might be 
in the cards; but I will defer addressing that need to an experienced 
contester.  
Dick, K8ZTT
 

  From: Clay Autery 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 12:04 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Need a second set of eyes... WAS: Re: Price Increase Alert 
for Feb 4th.
   
OK...  so I don't have time to complete my stack of cash for my K-Line
order...  I've paired it back.  Anyone interested in offering me a
second pair of eyes to see if I am making any glaring mistakes in
spec'ing out my reduced order?

Here's a link to a screen shot of my shopping cart:

*http://www.montac.com/pics/Elecraft_Draft_Order.jpg
*
Here's the Executive summary:
K3S/100K  Transceiver with 100 Watt amp module
KRX3A-K  Secondary Receiver
KAT3A-K  Internal Antenna tuner
MH-2  Hand Mic
SS30DV  Power Supply

And here's the filters I am going to end up with:
FL1 - Reserved for FM/Reserved for FM
FL2 - KFL3A-6K/KFL3A-6K  (AM/eSSB)
FL3 - KFL3A-2.8_2.7sw/KFL3A-2.8_2.7sw  (trade-up to 2.8kHz/8-pole on
both receivers)
FL4 - KFL3A-400/KFL3A-400  (CW... yes, this "no-code" is diligently
working to achieve 25wpm before the end of summer)
FL5 - KFL3A-250/KFL3A-250 (CW)

Lot's of other stuff I'd LIKE to have, but just can't do it.  Anyone
think I should do anything different?  I'm kind of capped right around
this total.

Thanks

__
Clay Autery
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S DIGOUT1 question

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Jim,
I would think you could create a macro to accomplish this.  The commands would 
be SWT25;BN00;  this would turn on the RX ANT, change the band to 160M.   You 
could add additional commands to the string to set more options (like Split up 
2 or 5 or whatever floats your boat.
The one thing to remember is the SWT25 command toggles the RX ANT on or off; 
unlike some other commands (like BN00), it does not "set" the position (if you 
to send the SWT25;BN00; Macro a second time, the band (160M) would stay the 
same, but the RX ANT would now turn off.
Additionally, when you send a band change command (like BN00, BN01, BN02, 
etc.), you need a 300 ms delay before sending another command in the string.  
Other than inserting one or two semicolons after the BNxx command, before 
additional commands, the easiest approach might be to put the BNxx; command 
last in the string.
Dick, K8ZTT







> On 27 Jan 2016, at 5:00 AM, Jim Miller <jtmille...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I want an external signal that is only activated when 160 and RX Ant is 
> selected. That will be part of logic that detunes my TX antenna on when 
> receiving so as not to ruin my RX antenna pattern. 
> 
> Jim ab3cv
> 
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:38 PM, RIchard Williams <richarddw1...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> You are correct in saying you can assert Digout1 on 160M.  That said, I am 
> not sure what you are trying to accomplish by tying it to enabling the RX 
> antenna?  You can accomplish the same thing by having 160M selected as the 
> band, and then tapping the RX ANT button.  That selection is remembered by 
> the K3 (or K3S), and every time you select 160M, the radio will automatically 
> select the RX ANT (which is exactly what I do here).
> 
> FYI, you can do the same thing for the 6, 10, and 12M preamp;  select each 
> band, turn on the preamp (flashing PRE on the display), and from then on, 
> when you select those bands, the pre amp will turn on automatically,
> 
> Dick, K8ZTT
> 
> 
> 
> From: Jim Miller <j...@jtmiller.com>
> To: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 5:22 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3S DIGOUT1 question
> 
> According to the K3S user manual DIGOUT1 is per band and per antenna.
> 
> Does this mean that I could assert DIGOUT1 on the basis of 160m and the
> activation of the RX antenna?
> 
> 73
> jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S DIGOUT1 question

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

You are correct in saying you can assert Digout1 on 160M.  That said, I am not 
sure what you are trying to accomplish by tying it to enabling the RX antenna?  
You can accomplish the same thing by having 160M selected as the band, and then 
tapping the RX ANT button.   That selection is remembered by the K3 (or K3S), 
and every time you select 160M, the radio will automatically select the RX ANT 
(which is exactly what I do here).
FYI, you can do the same thing for the 6, 10, and 12M preamp;  select each 
band, turn on the preamp (flashing PRE on the display), and from then on, when 
you select those bands, the pre amp will turn on automatically,
Dick, K8ZTT
 

  From: Jim Miller 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 5:22 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3S DIGOUT1 question
   
According to the K3S user manual DIGOUT1 is per band and per antenna.

Does this mean that I could assert DIGOUT1 on the basis of 160m and the
activation of the RX antenna?

73
jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S rocking on flat surface

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Bob,
I would take a look at the six 2D fasteners you installed in the corners of the 
RF board.  If one is installed the wrong way, I am betting that would cause the 
problem you are experiencing.   There are four additional 2D fasteners used (2 
on the front panel shield, 1 in the top back corner of the left side panel, and 
one in the upper read corner of the right side panel), and you might double 
check they are orientated correctly to.
Dick, K8ZTT

  From: Bob Novas 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2015 8:33 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3S rocking on flat surface
   
I must have done some kit assembly wrong. My K3S does not sit flat on a flat
surface, rather it rocks.  Furthermore, the seam on the bottom between the
front and back cover plates is not flat.  Any hints as to what to look for?
Bob - W3DK

 

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[Elecraft] If it plugs in, then it should work

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

I would agree with Ted in many instances (especially where safety is 
paramount),  standardization is a necessity (excellent examples are given by 
Ted).  That said, I would have to disagree with him if we try and apply that 
rational across the board.  For instance, I do think applying the if it fits, 
it should work is practical for ALL electronic devices.


Using a fully loaded K3S as an example, there are (not counting the ground lug) 
twenty four jacks on the back, and 2 on the front;   requiring 13 different 
types of connectors (SO-239, BNC, Anderson Power Pole, RCA/Phone, 1/4 mono 
jack, 1/4 stereo jack , SMA connector, 1/8 mono jack, 1/8 stereo jack, USB, 
RJ45, DB15, and last but not least, an eight pin mic connector).

If you were to apply the if it fits, it should work rule to the K3S, it would 
now require twenty six different types of connectors (double what we now have). 
 O yes, even the ANT 1 and ANT 2 need to be different (maybe ANT 2 should be a 
N connector).  WIth Radio Shack going tits up, it is hard enough finding the 13 
types of connectors we need today; can you imagine trying to find twenty six 
different types  just for the K3?   And if you happen to have a VHF/UHF radio, 
it should have different connectors than any on the K3 or (for that matter) 
power amp; God forbid you inadvertently connect  the output of your 1.5 KW amp 
to the ANT jack on your VHF radio!!  
Anybody who plugs a cable into a socket just because it happens to fit is a 
fool;   especially amatuer radio operators, we all passed tests on radio theory 
and should know what all the inputs and outputs on our radios are for and how 
they are used.  As for the DB15,  it is marked ACC, it is not labeled VGA; why 
anyone would think it should be connected to a VGA monitor is beyond me??   Do 
you assume all radio manufactures use the same pinouts for their RJ45 or 8 pin 
mic connectors, and connect any mic to any radio? 
And yes, Bob (K4TAX) said it all; it is very important to read and understand 
the manual before plugging or inserting any connector into any hole on any 
radio today.

Dick, K8ZTT 

 From: Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2015 7:32 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] If it plugs in, then it should work
   
Indeed it should work if it plugs in AND if it looks the same, or at least
it shouldn¹t cause any serious harm.  In other industries where safety is
at issue that is a firmly enforced rule.  Examples, from two industries
with which I have worked:  Many lives have been saved since general
aviation airframe manufacturers sized fuel filler ports, or required
retrofit port restrictors, so that turbine fuel physically could not be
loaded into tanks feeding a gasoline engine.  Line boys, as they¹re
called, are no more or less cautious than the rest of us, but the theme is
that people make mistakes so the systems in which they work should be
engineered to prevent those mistakes or to prevent them from doing any
harm.  Ditto in medicine.  Patient safety was significantly advanced when
the oxygen and the anesthetic gas fittings were made different enough that
oxygen couldn¹t come from anything but the oxygen supply (e.g.
noninterchangeable screw threads).  Patient safety gurus have also
insisted that wrist bands used in every hospital everywhere not only have
standard language, but also standard colors so that, in a rush, a band
announcing an allergy (red) couldn¹t be confused for a DNR (purple) even
though the words on each are clear.  And crash carts should be in exactly
the same place in every hospital ward.  Until very recently some surgeons
marked an X on a limb to mean cut this side, while others marked it to
mean don¹t cut this side.  You can guess about the injuries which that
lack of a standard system caused.  I¹ll wager the same is true in other
industries where the consequences of human error can be significant.  I
don¹t know enough about electrical engineering to offer any specific
suggestions; but as a starting point, IMHO: if it fits, it should work.

Ted, KN1CBR


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 19:31:44 -0500
From: Bob McGraw - K4TAX rmcg...@blomand.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KPA100 RS232 interface repair
Message-ID: 55d91470.2070...@blomand.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

The K3S has a RJ-45 connector for the RS-232 communications.  Now that's
different!  Of course they supply a cable with a RJ-45 on one end and a
DB-9F on the other.  And then to keep everybody happy, there is what
appears to be a 15 pin VGA connector that is the ACC connector to
provide band data and such.  The manual clearly states This is not a
VGA video connector.

Yes it is very important to read and understand the manual before
plugging or inserting any connector into any hole on any radio today.
It seems most hams think if it plugs in, then it should work.

73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S 

Re: [Elecraft] s meter reading with sub receiver

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

John,
Yes, just push and hold the BSet button (the number 1 on the keypad).  The 
main VFO will now say b SEt, and the S meter is reading the sub receiver (also 
make sure the sub receiver is turned on to do this).
Dick, K8ZTT
  From: John McBee jrmc...@cox.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2015 5:59 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] s meter reading with sub receiver
   
Is there a way to see the S meter reading for the sub receiver? I've 
been looking thru the manual and cann't find it.  I thought I have read 
somewhere about dual S meter's.  Any help would be great or let me know 
what page in manual it is on.

Thanks
John
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Re: [Elecraft] Signalink and K3 (you do not need need a Signal Link)

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Jorge,
Interesting enough, at a recent club meeting, the presentation was on using the 
SignalLink as an interface between your radio and computer to operate Winmore 
using RMS Express.   Until reading all the threads the last couple of days, I 
was contemplating purchasing a SignalLink;  however, last night I tried hooking 
my K3 directly to my computer.
All I did was connect the line out on the K3 to the mic in on the computer 
(using a stereo cable) and the line in on the K3 to the headphone jack on the 
computer.   Only thing missing was a way to key the K3.   This is easily solved 
by using the RS-232 port on the K3;  hook the K3 RS-232 port to your computer 
(since my computer does not have a RS-232 port, I used a RS-232 to USB dongle). 
 First go to the config menu in the K3 and find PTT -- Key;  set either DTS 
or RTS above PTT to on.   Now open RMS express; in the setup there is a PTT 
Port (optional) setup.  Just selected the correct serial port (found in control 
panel/device manager), baud rate you selected in the K3 config menu, and use 
either RTS or DTS for keying (the same as you set in the K3 config PTT --Key 
setting).
Fired everything up, set the Line out gain (I found 3 to work fine), then go to 
menu and select Line In and set the mic gain to an appropriate level (4 
worked for me); that was it, and I was able to establish Winmor connections on 
80 and 40 meters.
Dick,  K8ZTT
  From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 1:07 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Signalink and K3
   
On Mon,11/10/2014 1:00 PM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:

  I am to buy a signalink and want to know which is the best way to 
connect it to the K3 so I can order the right cables

Don't waste your money on it, Jorge. One of the Tascam units is far 
superior, and about the same cost. http://k9yc.com/USB_Interfaces.pdf

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Signalink and K3

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

Rather than buying a Signal Link, If one wants an external sound card of good 
quality (and stereo), I would think the Asus Xonar U7 USB sound card  ($80 or 
so) would be a good choice.  For PTT I believe you can use a RS-232 cable to 
the K3 and set DTS or RTS line to PTT.   Have not tried this yet, but I think 
it would work fine with Winmore.
Dick, K8ZTT 
 

 From: dm...@nexicom.net dm...@nexicom.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 12:26 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Signalink and K3
   

Jim  and Jorge

I was merely answering Jorge's  question.  perhaps I should have 
given better advice and steered Jorge away from signal link  as you 
did. I do agree that a signalink or similar is far from ideal and  
even less so on the K3 as it would be doubling up on the isolation 
transformers that are already part of the KIO3 board in the K3 
possibly leading to additional loss in quality.

so to Jorge Diez  here is my revised answer!

  Forget the signal link, Rigblaster or other commercial fit all rigs 
type solution.  get a good high quality sound adapter like the tascam 
from BH as stated in Jims article  you will be way better off this 
way for decoding and encoding for psk, rtty SSTV and  more important 
JTXX, WSPR etc. than the users of the mediocre commercial  fit all 
rigs solutions and at a better price.  I think setting up with this 
would actually be simpler than mucking about with the jumpers etc of 
the signalink  there is no need for a PTT connection either as most 
digial software will handle this via command or vox.  keep it 
available for a foot switch.

 I am using an old M-Audio mobile pre USB  that was retired from field 
recording sound effects.  its perfect for this use.  I believe it was 
Jim's article some years ago that lead me this way and I'm glad I did.

PS  BH  is a great source for this kind of stuff  I use them for most 
of my audio and photo needs.


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[Elecraft] IF Buffer Noise Reduction Mods

[Richard Williams]

I just finished installing the IF buffer and noise reduction mods and have 
to say that I found the IF Buffer mod less painfull than the Noise 
reduction one.

Remove and replace one part; of which the most difficult thing was getting 
the new SMT resistor into position.  Once there, I used a very small 
jewelers screwdriver to hold in place,  put a little solder on the end of 
iron tip and then spot soldered one end;  then I could solder the other 
end, finally going back to the other end and properly soldering it.  I did 
not cut the SMT in half to remove it,  found it very easy to use solder 
wick and then heat the resistor so it would slide off.

The noise reduction mod took a lot more time getting the diodes and 
resistors trimmed, soldered, and into position.  One thing to be aware of is 
the resistor is tied to the cathode of the diode for the components on the 
left side of the K3 and the resistor is tied to the anode of the diode for 
the components in the center mod.

Dick  K8ZTT 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ergonomics band switching

[Richard Williams]

I have to agree that band switching on the K3 is not the most user 
friendly and having to step though all the bands is a pain in the butt. 
That said,  you can only do so much within a givin size;  many features that 
can be eaisly encorperated into/onto a large front panel have to be 
presented in a different way.  I recently switched from a Orion 2 to the K3, 
and it has taken some getting use to the much smaller panel;  though I 
don't really believe that the K3 has a leg up on the O2,  it has some 
features that were not available on the O2 that I dearly wanted.

As far as band changing;  you can set up the first 10 memories, but you have 
to push two buttons (MV amd then button 1 thur 0) and have to remember what 
number is what band is what number.

Another option is to use PowerSDF/IF and not only is band/mode change easy, 
but you also have a great panadaptor  (I think Elecrafts upcoming one will 
do the same, but it is not available and I bet will cost better than double 
what PowerSDF runs (about $375 plus a few bucks for a couple of interconnect 
cables).

An unrelated feature of the Panadaptor is you can quickly QSY via point and 
click with your mouse.

In any case, there is an option that will work right now and another one 
will be available in the near future.

Dick  K8ZTT



- Original Message - 
From: boyscout elecr...@dracoassociates.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 ergonomics




 Val-12 wrote:

 We already have heard the same words 6-7 years ago. However the
 discussed rig was K2 and the dreamed one - K3. Now we have K3
 bigger than K2.  I'm sure that there will be voices for K5 bigger than K4
 too.


 Yeah maybe, but compromises made to keep the K3 small are still very real 
 to
 folks who don't have the Royal Jelly from 6-7 years of using Elecrafts.

 For the record, I have a 4-year-old K2 as well as a K3, but I also have a
 Yaesu 1000D and there's a lot to be said for the ergonomics of the larger
 radio.  I've become accustomed to most of the K3's compromises for a small
 front panel, but the one that still drives me CRAZY is band-switching by
 stepping through the bands one at a time.  If the K4 changes nothing else, 
 I
 hope it changes that by providing a one-touch method for selecting a band.
 -- 

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