Re: [Elecraft] T1 beginner operating question

[wb0gaz via Elecraft]

 One note I should add - after the "INFO" procedure (emits "L0" with yellow 
LEDs, followed by string of individual flashes with Red LED), I noticed relays 
clicked once at the end of the red LED sequence.


 On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 05:31:25 PM MST,  wrote:  
 
  Thanks, Myron -

I've plugged my paddle (tip = dit, ring = dah) into the side jack of the tuner.

I can press the Dah (RING) contact and after 2 seconds while in sleep mode, it 
appears to enter tune-ready (blinking green LED) condition.

During blinking green LED condition, application of 5 watts of carrier at 3.5 
MHz yields no tuning activity.

I tried this -

Press/hold DAH until steady green LED
Release DAH button while steady green LED
Apply RF, no sign of activity from the tuner

As that test yield no new information, I tried "info" (using the front panel 
buttons, not the keyer paddle input) -

Response (in CW, with yellow LED) - "L0" followed by brief red LED flash about 
1 per second, persisting for about 30 seconds.

Swapped battery (existing battery reading 8.83V open circuit; replacement 
battery reading 9.11V open circuit.)

Same responses.




 On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 05:12:20 PM MST, Myron Schaffer 
 wrote:  
 
 I have to push and hold the tune button until the green LED blinks from an 
unpowered state. If you mess with the buttons and get a blinking Yellow, you’ll 
have to wait 4-seconds until the tuner goes asleep. The tune function can only 
be invoked from a sleeping state. 

Once you get it to blink (ready for tuning) if you continue to hold it, the 
green LED goes out and enters the Deep Tune mode where it will go through an 
entire search algorithm for lowest possible SWR once you apply some RF. 

If that isn’t working, replace the switches because they’re probably worn out 
and bounce. This will cause symptoms you have too. I get around that by 
plugging in a 3.5mm TRS cord to the side and a set of paddles. Push the DAH key 
for 2 seconds to get the green led to blink. That’s how I do remote tuning; I 
have a 20 foot cord. Neat
Myron

> On Jan 14, 2024, at 4:17 PM, wb0gaz via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
>  I've been lent a T1 tuner by a local ham friend with "can you get it to 
> work at your station?" request, following a "no trouble found" round trip to 
> Elecraft and back late last year.
> 
> I've never used a T1 before.
> 
> Station is a Kenwood TS940 set to minimum TX power (about 5 watts); antenna 
> is a 40M full wave wire loop. Test TX frequencies are 7 MHz (expect good 
> match) and 3.5 MHz (expect poor match that the tuner can accommodate).
> 
> After reading the user manual (dated 2018), I have tried to reproduce the 
> issue using the following steps, to no avail:
> 
> 1. Tap PWR button - yellow LED flashes about 4 times.
> 2. While yellow LED is flashing, I can set the tuner to active/inactive mode 
> (BYP button tapped while yellow LED flashing, yields green or yellow steady 
> LED indication for a few seconds, and sound of relays switching with the 
> change of setting.)
> 
> 3. With the tuner in active state (step 2 above), I tried to tune for SWR:
> 4. Press/hold PWR button to preset for TUNE; green LED flashing for a few 
> seconds.
> 5. While green LED flashing, key TX; no relay activity heard, green LED goes 
> out.
> 
> Steps 3-5 are exhibiting same result as my local friend reported - no 
> response (relay activity or change to match between TX and Antenna) from 
> tuner to RF from TX. The tuner's trip to Elecraft (with no trouble found) was 
> a result of the same experience.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to myronschaf...@gmail.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 beginner operating question

[wb0gaz via Elecraft]

 Thanks, Myron -

I've plugged my paddle (tip = dit, ring = dah) into the side jack of the tuner.

I can press the Dah (RING) contact and after 2 seconds while in sleep mode, it 
appears to enter tune-ready (blinking green LED) condition.

During blinking green LED condition, application of 5 watts of carrier at 3.5 
MHz yields no tuning activity.

I tried this -

Press/hold DAH until steady green LED
Release DAH button while steady green LED
Apply RF, no sign of activity from the tuner

As that test yield no new information, I tried "info" (using the front panel 
buttons, not the keyer paddle input) -

Response (in CW, with yellow LED) - "L0" followed by brief red LED flash about 
1 per second, persisting for about 30 seconds.

Swapped battery (existing battery reading 8.83V open circuit; replacement 
battery reading 9.11V open circuit.)

Same responses.




 On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 05:12:20 PM MST, Myron Schaffer 
 wrote:  
 
 I have to push and hold the tune button until the green LED blinks from an 
unpowered state. If you mess with the buttons and get a blinking Yellow, you’ll 
have to wait 4-seconds until the tuner goes asleep. The tune function can only 
be invoked from a sleeping state. 

Once you get it to blink (ready for tuning) if you continue to hold it, the 
green LED goes out and enters the Deep Tune mode where it will go through an 
entire search algorithm for lowest possible SWR once you apply some RF. 

If that isn’t working, replace the switches because they’re probably worn out 
and bounce. This will cause symptoms you have too. I get around that by 
plugging in a 3.5mm TRS cord to the side and a set of paddles. Push the DAH key 
for 2 seconds to get the green led to blink. That’s how I do remote tuning; I 
have a 20 foot cord. Neat
Myron

> On Jan 14, 2024, at 4:17 PM, wb0gaz via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
>  I've been lent a T1 tuner by a local ham friend with "can you get it to 
> work at your station?" request, following a "no trouble found" round trip to 
> Elecraft and back late last year.
> 
> I've never used a T1 before.
> 
> Station is a Kenwood TS940 set to minimum TX power (about 5 watts); antenna 
> is a 40M full wave wire loop. Test TX frequencies are 7 MHz (expect good 
> match) and 3.5 MHz (expect poor match that the tuner can accommodate).
> 
> After reading the user manual (dated 2018), I have tried to reproduce the 
> issue using the following steps, to no avail:
> 
> 1. Tap PWR button - yellow LED flashes about 4 times.
> 2. While yellow LED is flashing, I can set the tuner to active/inactive mode 
> (BYP button tapped while yellow LED flashing, yields green or yellow steady 
> LED indication for a few seconds, and sound of relays switching with the 
> change of setting.)
> 
> 3. With the tuner in active state (step 2 above), I tried to tune for SWR:
> 4. Press/hold PWR button to preset for TUNE; green LED flashing for a few 
> seconds.
> 5. While green LED flashing, key TX; no relay activity heard, green LED goes 
> out.
> 
> Steps 3-5 are exhibiting same result as my local friend reported - no 
> response (relay activity or change to match between TX and Antenna) from 
> tuner to RF from TX. The tuner's trip to Elecraft (with no trouble found) was 
> a result of the same experience.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to myronschaf...@gmail.com
  
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Tuner for sale SPOKEN FOR.

[Jim Sheldon]

The T1 has been spoken for.  Thanks.

Jim, W0EB


-- Original Message --

From "Jim Sheldon" 

To "Elecraft Reflector" 
Date 8/30/2023 10:41:39 AM
Subject T1 Antenna Tuner for sale

I have a T1 that's a couple years old.  It got used only slightly and never out 
portable with my KX2 after I built it from the kit.  I added the internal tuner 
to the KX2 to minimize things to carry when we went on vacation and the T1 was 
shelved as a backup in case the KX2's tuner quit (it never did).

At 81, I'm not travelling much and just operating my K line home station so I 
sold the KX2 a while back.  I don't need the T1 and figure to offer it here as 
it isn't currently available from Elecraft.

I'd like to get $150 for it - original manual is included, and I'll cover the 
shipping - US stations only please as international postage, etc. has gotten 
far too expensive for me.

Anyone interested please email me w...@cox.net and first email gets first 
preference and we'll discuss payment details via email to keep clutter on the 
reflector to a minimum.

Jim, W0EB
Park City, KS
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 not tuning

[William Hammond via Elecraft]

Hi Fred, when you operate bypass do you hear a relay click (K8)?  If so the MCU 
is working and you eliminate a good bit of circuitry,

Have you read this?  There is a schematic on page 12.  
https://ftp.elecraft.com/T1/Manuals%20Downloads/E740079%20T1%20owners%20man%20rev%20B.pdf
 


73, Bill-AK5X

> On Apr 27, 2022, at 12:22 PM, Fred VE3FAL  wrote:
> 
> I changed the battery out and still the same issue from 6-80m. Tuner just 
> stays on yellow light. Have tried bypass off and on and still seems like same 
> results.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Fred VE3FAL/CIW649
> 
> 
>> On Apr 26, 2022, at 17:35, Paul Jewell  wrote:
>> 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to a...@me.com 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 not tuning

[Fred VE3FAL]

I changed the battery out and still the same issue from 6-80m. Tuner just stays 
on yellow light. Have tried bypass off and on and still seems like same results.

Sent from my iPhone
Fred VE3FAL/CIW649


> On Apr 26, 2022, at 17:35, Paul Jewell  wrote:
> 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 not tuning

[Paul Jewell]

Not sure if you are referring to my post from a few weeks back. When I finally 
spent time diagnosing my problem, I can confirm it is doing everything as 
expected, except it continually flashes 4 yellow. Based on a very helpful email 
from Elecraft technical support, it is clear that something is keeping the 
on/off transistor energised. I haven’t yet had a chance to diagnose further 
(due to work commitments). 

For your case, I recommend trying with a new battery before deciding it isn’t 
working. Then make sure it isn’t in bypass mode before tuning. If this doesn’t 
work, post more details about that happens when you try to tune.

Good luck!

Best regards,
Paul

> On 26 Apr 2022, at 19:58, Fred VE3FAL  wrote:
> 
> I had just read a post from someone who said their T1 had quit tuning. I 
> pulled mine out of my qrp go-bag only to find mine has also stopped tuning. 
> Now, with that being said. I have not changed the battery out for a new one 
> as of yet. But wondering if the other person who had issues came to a resolve?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Fred VE3FAL/CIW649
> 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to p...@teulu.org 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 IC705 interface cable

[Erik Tkal]

Hi Wayne, any news on this?  :-)

  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



On Jul 28, 2021, at 16:35, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

Some issues came up during testing. We'll post more details when we get closer.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



> On Jul 28, 2021, at 9:55 AM, Edward Seeliger  wrote:
> 
> Is there an update on availability of the interface cable to connect the T1 
> tuner to the Icom IC705?
> Edd - KD5M 
> __


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Question ?

[Bill Frantz]

On 8/16/21 at 2:15 PM, ecke...@gmail.com (Paul Ecker) wrote:

> Thanks to all that responded to my T1 Tuner question. Turns out the one I
> was asking about, that I bought thru QRZ Swapmeet would not tune, but the
> seller immediately refunded my money via PayPal. The second offer of a T1
> also via QRZ turned out to be a scam. So enough, just ordered a brand new
> T1 in kit form. If it doesn't work, we'll know why.

It's a fun build, and a rugged little box to have when you finish.

73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| Ham radio contesting is a | Periwinkle
(408)348-7900  | contact sport.| 150 Rivermead Rd #235
www.pwpconsult.com | --Ken Widelitz K6LA/VY2TT | Peterborough, NH 03458

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Question ?

[Paul Ecker]

Thanks to all that responded to my T1 Tuner question. Turns out the one I
was asking about, that I bought thru QRZ Swapmeet would not tune, but the
seller immediately refunded my money via PayPal. The second offer of a T1
also via QRZ turned out to be a scam. So enough, just ordered a brand new
T1 in kit form. If it doesn't work, we'll know why.

73 Paul w2eck
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Question ?

[Paul Jewell]

Make sure you haven't bypassed the tuner. I have this (excellent) tuner, 
but I have been caught out a couple of times when the tuner has been in 
bypass, and I have tried to tune. You will hear the relays when it is 
tuning.


Paul / MW7PAJ

On 15/08/2021 01:00, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:

Paul,

I believe you should hear a few relays click. If you are connected to a load 
that the T1 “knows” there may be no click. You can test that by using a 
different antenna or a dummy load.

Jim / K7TXA


On Aug 14, 2021, at 2:21 PM, Paul Ecker  wrote:

I just purchased a T1 Tuner from a fellow Ham. In reading the manual, it
says:

*To start tuning, transmit while the green LED is flashing (about 3
seconds). If you use SSB voice or a CW keyer, relay switching will start
and stop. Keep transmitting until all LEDs turn off.*

I am not hearing or feeling any relays switching on and off. Is that
normal??
Any other suggestions on testing the T! to ensure I have a working unit?

73 Paul w2eck
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to w6...@me.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to p...@teulu.org

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Question ?

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

Paul,

I believe you should hear a few relays click. If you are connected to a load 
that the T1 “knows” there may be no click. You can test that by using a 
different antenna or a dummy load.

Jim / K7TXA

> On Aug 14, 2021, at 2:21 PM, Paul Ecker  wrote:
> 
> I just purchased a T1 Tuner from a fellow Ham. In reading the manual, it
> says:
> 
> *To start tuning, transmit while the green LED is flashing (about 3
> seconds). If you use SSB voice or a CW keyer, relay switching will start
> and stop. Keep transmitting until all LEDs turn off.*
> 
> I am not hearing or feeling any relays switching on and off. Is that
> normal??
> Any other suggestions on testing the T! to ensure I have a working unit?
> 
> 73 Paul w2eck
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to w6...@me.com 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 IC705 interface cable

[Wayne Burdick]

Some issues came up during testing. We'll post more details when we get closer.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



> On Jul 28, 2021, at 9:55 AM, Edward Seeliger  wrote:
> 
> Is there an update on availability of the interface cable to connect the T1 
> tuner to the Icom IC705?
> Edd - KD5M 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 cable for the IC-705

[Wayne Burdick]

We hope to get back to work on this soon. We have a prototype -- just needs 
some firmware.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


> On May 5, 2021, at 12:42 PM, Don - W6CZ  wrote:
> 
> Waiting with breath like bait... ;)
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Don
> W6CZ
> DM07bk
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 cable for the IC-705

[MaverickNH]

Me too. I’m fine with folks running QRP transceivers off 500W amps and all,
but I use them at <10W, so the T1 is perfect. Other options take up too much
space/weight in my backpack!

Bret/N4SRN



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Lou Mecseri]

How about Precision 120M??

73, Lou KE1F

On 5/28/2021 01:47, Bob McGraw wrote:

It's really hard to beat a Simpson 260 or Triplett 630.

73

Bob, K4TAX


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 13:07:56 -0400
From: djchase
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New KX2 VFO knob wobble.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Hi, new KX2 owner here. My new KX2 was delivered on May 10, and had a 
significant wobble in the VFO knob.? After carefully removing the 
knob, I discovered that the majority of the wobble was due to the 
loose fit between the outer structure of the control and the panel 
opening.? I have temporarily carefully shimmed the gap with some 24 
gauge wire, but I believe that a more permanent solution would be a 
locknut on the control housing which I do not have.? ?With this 
temporary fix in place, the tuning knob works well.? I contacted 
Elecraft Support on May 11 or 12 regarding this situation, but have 
not received a reply.? Does anyone have any suggestions for a more 
permanent fix?? Thank you in advance.? Dave, K8RXB?Sent from my Galaxy


--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 15:01:18 -0400
From: Erik Tkal
To:d...@w3fpr.com
Cc:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8

Hi Don,

Yeah, I don?t often perform measurements on components already 
installed in a circuit, so the behaviour was confusing.  I thought I 
bought a nice DMM but I guess it was just a fluke?


Anyway, I got it finished and everything is operational, now just have 
to wait for the IC-705 interface cable!


  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



On May 24, 2021, at 18:01, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Erik,

Yes, using auto ranging on the DMM can cause false readings.  Try to 
set the fixed range a bit above the highest expected resistance for 
the best results.  It all depends on the voltage the DMM applies to 
the circuit.  Too high a voltage can make ICs and transistors conduct 
causing a low reading.


73,


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to lmecs...@cfl.rr.com 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

And for the bands to cooperate!! :-)

Congrats, Erik.

> On May 25, 2021, at 1:01 PM, Erik Tkal  wrote:
> 
> Hi Don,
> 
> Yeah, I don’t often perform measurements on components already installed in a 
> circuit, so the behaviour was confusing.  I thought I bought a nice DMM but I 
> guess it was just a fluke… ;-)
> 
> Anyway, I got it finished and everything is operational, now just have to 
> wait for the IC-705 interface cable!
> 
>  Thanks and 73,
>  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED
> 
> 
> 
> On May 24, 2021, at 18:01, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Erik,
> 
> Yes, using auto ranging on the DMM can cause false readings.  Try to set the 
> fixed range a bit above the highest expected resistance for the best results. 
>  It all depends on the voltage the DMM applies to the circuit.  Too high a 
> voltage can make ICs and transistors conduct causing a low reading.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to w6...@me.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Erik Tkal]

Hi Don,

Yeah, I don’t often perform measurements on components already installed in a 
circuit, so the behaviour was confusing.  I thought I bought a nice DMM but I 
guess it was just a fluke… ;-)

Anyway, I got it finished and everything is operational, now just have to wait 
for the IC-705 interface cable!

  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



On May 24, 2021, at 18:01, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Erik,

Yes, using auto ranging on the DMM can cause false readings.  Try to set the 
fixed range a bit above the highest expected resistance for the best results.  
It all depends on the voltage the DMM applies to the circuit.  Too high a 
voltage can make ICs and transistors conduct causing a low reading.

73,
Don W3FPR

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Don Wilhelm]

Erik,

Yes, using auto ranging on the DMM can cause false readings.  Try to set 
the fixed range a bit above the highest expected resistance for the best 
results.  It all depends on the voltage the DMM applies to the circuit.  
Too high a voltage can make ICs and transistors conduct causing a low 
reading.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 5:52 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:

Hi Don,

Everything appears correct and in place, already used magnification to 
check, and individual resistors all seem to measure correctly.  I 
still think it's my multimeter in auto mode.  I went back and retried 
the initial test using manual ranging and if I set the range to 600K 
it shows a reasonable value.  I suspect the caps in the circuit are 
fooling it, will have to google that and see if there is an 
adjustment.  The second test still shows a bit high as well, but  if I 
measure from the *cathode* of D3 instead of the anode then I get a 
reasonable value as well; perhaps the difference in meter currents 
used for measurements is messing up due to the diode being in the 
circuit as the check is worded?


  Thanks and 73,
Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



On May 24, 2021, at 15:32, Don Wilhelm > wrote:


Since that is the case, check the value of the resistors and check out 
the soldering under magnification.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 3:08 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:

Hi Don,

Nope, D3 and D4 are correct, and the LEDs check out per the test...





__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Erik Tkal]

Hi Don,

Everything appears correct and in place, already used magnification to check, 
and individual resistors all seem to measure correctly.  I still think it's my 
multimeter in auto mode.  I went back and retried the initial test using manual 
ranging and if I set the range to 600K it shows a reasonable value.  I suspect 
the caps in the circuit are fooling it, will have to google that and see if 
there is an adjustment.  The second test still shows a bit high as well, but  
if I measure from the *cathode* of D3 instead of the anode then I get a 
reasonable value as well; perhaps the difference in meter currents used for 
measurements is messing up due to the diode being in the circuit as the check 
is worded?

  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



On May 24, 2021, at 15:32, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Since that is the case, check the value of the resistors and check out the 
soldering under magnification.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 3:08 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:
> Hi Don,
> 
> Nope, D3 and D4 are correct, and the LEDs check out per the test...


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Don Wilhelm]

Since that is the case, check the value of the resistors and check out 
the soldering under magnification.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 3:08 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:

Hi Don,

Nope, D3 and D4 are correct, and the LEDs check out per the test...


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Don Wilhelm]

Erik,

Check and double check the orientation of the diodes.  That is the most 
likely reason for you measurement results.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/23/2021 5:39 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:

I just assembled the T1 kit, but am having an issue in the final check phase of 
the Control Board.

"Resistance across capacitor C19: between 137 K-ohms and 148 K-ohms. Press S2 
and confirm reading drops to between 117 K-ohms and 135 K-ohms.”

I’m getting around 60K or 43K with my Fluke 117, depending on which way I 
connect the leads.  Each of R10 and R11 individually test ok, and I don’t see 
any solder bridges or missing joints, and I’ve reflowed anything suspicious 
that might be related.  Has anyone seen this or could offer an explanation 
before I start pulling parts or digging out the oscilloscope?

The second check is also off.

"Resistance between D3 anode (end without the band) and the “ –“ pad near D7 
(ground) where the black wire is attached: > 100 K-ohms (may show open or infinite 
on some DMMs). Press S1 and confirm the reading drops to between 117 K-ohms and 130 
K-ohms. If the resistance is higher, try reversing your DMM leads.”

Attaching the red lead to D3 shows infinite resistance and pressing S1 reads 
170K.  Reversing shows about several M-ohm initially, but then pressing S1 
gives 180K.  Note that if I use normal automatic ranging it won’t get a lock on 
the second S1 measurement (with black lead on D3 and red on Ground), I had to 
use manual range.  This makes me think the DMM circuitry may be interfering in 
some way.

The third check on the LED voltage drop succeeds,




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 cable for the IC-705

[Don - W6CZ]

Waiting with breath like bait... ;)



-
Don
W6CZ
DM07bk
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 and IC705 interface

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Edd,

Thanks for asking. It's still in progress, and we'll provide full details when 
available.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


> On Apr 27, 2021, at 5:37 PM, Edward Seeliger  wrote:
> 
> Is there any update information about the availability of the T1 to IC705 
> interface?
> Edd KD5M
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 cable for the IC-705

[Wayne Burdick]

In progress. 

Wayne


elecraft.com

> On Feb 27, 2021, at 1:57 PM, William Combs via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is there any update on the T1 control cable for the IC-705?
> 
> Bill
> W8BC
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com 
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner green/yellow flashing LEDs

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

What I meant to say in the second paragraph is that the yellow light will flash 
if you tap PWR and do nothing else.

> On Dec 15, 2020, at 12:50 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Craig - I built one about two months ago and it’s working fine.
> 
> On mine, to go to bypass, I quickly press the PWR button, then the BYP 
> button. Doing so alternates back and forth between bypass and not. After 
> doing that one-two press combo, the yellow will light up for a second or two 
> if you are in bypass and the green will light up if you are in tune/operate. 
> Note that the label set “tap”.
> 
> The yellow will light up if you press PWR and then do nothing within two 
> seconds or so. I believe that it is telling you the last forward power level.
> 
> Does that help?
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
> 
>> On Dec 15, 2020, at 11:42 AM, Craig Vonilten  wrote:
>> 
>> I just finished building my T1 kit.  As with their other gear, top notch
>> instructions and quality.  A very solid design.  Power up and test all
>> appear to be functional, although I've not tuned any radials yet, since I
>> wanted to step through the testing.  Everything appears nominal including
>> the inductor testing.  However, when I tested the bypass (IN/OUT) feature,
>> the green/yellow LEDs rapidly flash (alternating pattern).  Pressing (and
>> holding) the BYP button will hold one or the other LEDs, with the pattern
>> starting as soon as the button is released.  No other button combination
>> seems to stop or correct this condition.  I expected to be able to press BYP
>> to select IN or OUT and have a steady green or steady yellow (indicating the
>> bypass condition).  I have to remove the battery to reset the tuner and
>> recover from this flashing LED condition.  As stated, I have not tuned a
>> load yet.  Is this normal?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
>> N6CAV
>> 
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to w6...@me.com 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to w6...@me.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner green/yellow flashing LEDs

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

Craig - I built one about two months ago and it’s working fine.

On mine, to go to bypass, I quickly press the PWR button, then the BYP button. 
Doing so alternates back and forth between bypass and not. After doing that 
one-two press combo, the yellow will light up for a second or two if you are in 
bypass and the green will light up if you are in tune/operate. Note that the 
label set “tap”.

The yellow will light up if you press PWR and then do nothing within two 
seconds or so. I believe that it is telling you the last forward power level.

Does that help?

Jim / W6JHB

> On Dec 15, 2020, at 11:42 AM, Craig Vonilten  wrote:
> 
> I just finished building my T1 kit.  As with their other gear, top notch
> instructions and quality.  A very solid design.  Power up and test all
> appear to be functional, although I've not tuned any radials yet, since I
> wanted to step through the testing.  Everything appears nominal including
> the inductor testing.  However, when I tested the bypass (IN/OUT) feature,
> the green/yellow LEDs rapidly flash (alternating pattern).  Pressing (and
> holding) the BYP button will hold one or the other LEDs, with the pattern
> starting as soon as the button is released.  No other button combination
> seems to stop or correct this condition.  I expected to be able to press BYP
> to select IN or OUT and have a steady green or steady yellow (indicating the
> bypass condition).  I have to remove the battery to reset the tuner and
> recover from this flashing LED condition.  As stated, I have not tuned a
> load yet.  Is this normal?
> 
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> N6CAV
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to w6...@me.com 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Question

[kd4iz]

Jim,

 

This is an interesting question. 

 

Eric and Wayne were authors of the design and updated the schematic (at
least according to mine dated 2017). One of them may be able to tell us. 

 

The MCU type is listed in the schematic, but without knowing how big the
memory block is, it is hard to tell what of the memory could be written to
in the EEPROM area. Hopefully one or other will chime in and let us know.

 

Jack - KD4IZ

 

-Original Message-

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> > On Behalf Of James Bennett via
Elecraft

Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 12:15

To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net> >

Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Question

 

The specs for the T1 QRP antenna tuner indicate  "Tuning times (typical): 2
to 8 seconds for initial tuning; 1 to 2 seconds to re-tune from memory" and
"Many tune-ups are saved for fast re-tuning"

 

However, I can't find any documentation as to how many memories this thing
actually has.

 

Does anyone know?

 

Jim / W6JHB

__

Elecraft mailing list

Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm

Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net

Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
delivered to kd...@frawg.org   

 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1

[Michael Walker]

I have one as well that I think I can part with.

Mike va3mw


On Fri, Dec 13, 2019 at 9:48 AM Ian Kahn  wrote:

> Terry,
>
> I have one for sale. Let's connect off-line.
>
> Ian, NV4C
>
> On Fri, Dec 13, 2019, 9:39 AM Terry Basom  wrote:
>
> > Looking for a T1 tuner..
> >
> > Thanks
> > Terry
> > VE3IQL
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to nv4c@gmail.com
> >
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to va...@portcredit.net
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1

[Ian Kahn]

Terry,

I have one for sale. Let's connect off-line.

Ian, NV4C

On Fri, Dec 13, 2019, 9:39 AM Terry Basom  wrote:

> Looking for a T1 tuner..
>
> Thanks
> Terry
> VE3IQL
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to nv4c@gmail.com
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU for 200mW WSPRlite

[MaverickNH]

Thanks Bill, but I wasn't clear the options I was looking for were how to use
he T1 with the EndFed antenna I have with the WSPRlite, given that the T1
requires 0.5W and the WSPRlite outputs only 0.2W. Odd as it sounds, I'm
looking for an "amplifier" to switch in to bump 10-25 fold to 2-5W as the T1
likes 2-5W for initial tune cycle and 0.5W thereafter.

The T1 has latching relays so it seems I *could* tune with a KX2 and then
swap in the WSPRlite - so that's the backup plan.

BRET/N4SRN





--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU for 200mW WSPRlite

[Bill Adams]

Bret

I assume from your gear list that the 30 meter WSPRlite is the only 
transmitter. In that case, a resonant 30 meter antenna either a center fed 
dipole, a ¼ wave vertical with radials or an end fed ½ wavelength wire with a L 
match should satisfy the antenna requirement.

Bill AF4B

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: MaverickNH
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2019 7:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] T1 ATU for 200mW WSPRlite

I'm planning to do some camping and will bring along a KX3Helper EndFed 40-6m
antenna with 9:1 Unan, T1 ATU and SOTAbeams WSPRlite to run on 30m from a
USB battery bank.

The T1 requires 0.5W to tune but the WSPRlite output is 0.2W. Any thoughts
on options other than tuning up with another radio (like KX2 w/o ATU)?

BRET/N4SRN



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to a...@att.net 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 

Re: [Elecraft] [T1] Newly assembled T1 inop

[Randy Moore]

Found the problem! As many would guess - it's a solder problem! A tiny
splash of solder in a random location shorted one of the remote control
lines to ground!

73,
Randy, KS4L

On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 9:05 PM Randy Moore  wrote:

> Just completed an Elecraft T1 ATU. I built and used one several years ago
> and wished I hadn’t sold it, so built another one. But it’s not working.
> When I plug-in the (tested good) 9v battery, the yellow LED blinks 4 times
> (not mentioned in the manual that I can see), but there’s no response to
> any other button pushes. I went back through all the tests in the assembly
> manual and they are AOK. I followed the voltage source through the 6v
> regulator and that’s ok, although the regulator output reads 5.0v on my
> DMM. Is that too low?
>
> I will confess something. When I inserted the 28 pin MCU into its socket,
> no matter how I tried, I could not get it in all the way. I’ve socketed
> dozens of ICs  and never had this happen before. The instructions insist on
> getting it in so that the “shoulders” of the pins contact the socket. I was
> about 1/16” short of that. So I clipped about that much off all the pins
> and got the pin “shoulders” to contact the socket. I could not have gotten
> the little control board to fully seat over the MCU without doing this. But
> I may have ruined the MCU by doing this...
>
> Any help appreciated!
>
> 73,
> Randy, KS4L
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 BNC connector

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

It is a low profile PC Mount BNC connector.  Elecraft p/n E620075.
See the parts listing in the T1 assembly instructions for a small photo.
It is also used in the KX1.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/21/2018 2:17 AM, Rick McGaver wrote:

Is the BNC connector used on the T1 tuner standard pcb mount?
Rick. NK 9G

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 as remote tuner for KX2/KX3?

[Glen Torr]

Hi Wayne,

Sounds good, could you tell us the approximate offset of the feed point
from the centre, I would like to try this from home.

Many Thanks,

Glen VK1FB

On Saturday, September 16, 2017, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Steve,
>
> This should work. A couple of notes:
>
> 1. Yes, you could use one of the general-purpose I/O signals from the
> KXIO2 module to activate a T1 ATU. The associated menu entry could be
> assigned to one of the four programmable function buttons. There’s no way
> to do full T1 control from the KX2, however, as that requires generation of
> a serial data stream.
>
> 2. If you were to use good quality twin lead or ladder line, you could
> obtain equally good results just using the KX2’s internal ATU option
> (KXAT2). This is exactly how I operate at my own station. I use an Elecraft
> BL2 balun between the radio and the feedline. (Coax from the radio to the
> BL2 should be very short.) In my case the feedline is connected directly to
> an off-center-fed dipole about 90’ long. I can match this antenna on 80-6
> meters with the ATUs in any of our transceivers.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> > On Sep 15, 2017, at 10:57 AM, Steve Sergeant  > wrote:
> >
> > I am developing plans a hut-to-hut skit tour in Canada for next winter.
> > On this trip, I will want to operate my KX2 inside of metal-roofed
> > A-frame huts with a 60' feedline (RG-174, RG-58, or 300Ω twinlead?) to
> > some kind of wire antenna outside. I plan to operate SSB on 40 & 20
> > meters at a minimum, and 15 & 10m if possible; likely in adverse weather
> > conditions.
> >
> > I read the FAQ for the T1 on using it as a remote tuner, which says:
> >
> >> The T1 is intended for use near the operating position. But with a
> little effort it could be remoted, and its extremely small size would be
> beneficial for this purpose. First, the tuner must be placed in a
> weatherproof container if used outdoors. Second, controlling the tuner
> remotely requires a shielded control cable back to the operating position;
> this cable must supply, at minimum, a simple switch closure to wake up the
> tuner. It’s also possible to create your own band-data interface from the
> rig to the ATU, as explained in the T1 Owner’s Manual. Finally, you’ll need
> an SWR bridge at the operating position since you won’t be able to see the
> LEDs on the T1.
> >
> > I can see that the KX2 manual and the T1 manual give a lot of
> > information about control signals and such. But before I take the time
> > to try to engineer something or hack something, I'll ask the obvious
> > question:
> >
> > Has anybody out there done this?
> >
> > Follow-up questions to anybody who has:
> >
> > Can you describe your set-up?
> >
> > Have any of you found a way to use the KXIO2 and either the PFn or some
> > other feature to control the T1 from the KX2 through a separate
> > 3-conductor cable?
> >
> > Thanks and 73s. DE KC6ZKT
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com 
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to glen.t...@gmail.com 
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 as remote tuner for KX2/KX3?

[Wayne Burdick]

Steve,

This should work. A couple of notes:

1. Yes, you could use one of the general-purpose I/O signals from the KXIO2 
module to activate a T1 ATU. The associated menu entry could be assigned to one 
of the four programmable function buttons. There’s no way to do full T1 control 
from the KX2, however, as that requires generation of a serial data stream. 

2. If you were to use good quality twin lead or ladder line, you could obtain 
equally good results just using the KX2’s internal ATU option (KXAT2). This is 
exactly how I operate at my own station. I use an Elecraft BL2 balun between 
the radio and the feedline. (Coax from the radio to the BL2 should be very 
short.) In my case the feedline is connected directly to an off-center-fed 
dipole about 90’ long. I can match this antenna on 80-6 meters with the ATUs in 
any of our transceivers.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


> On Sep 15, 2017, at 10:57 AM, Steve Sergeant  wrote:
> 
> I am developing plans a hut-to-hut skit tour in Canada for next winter.
> On this trip, I will want to operate my KX2 inside of metal-roofed
> A-frame huts with a 60' feedline (RG-174, RG-58, or 300Ω twinlead?) to
> some kind of wire antenna outside. I plan to operate SSB on 40 & 20
> meters at a minimum, and 15 & 10m if possible; likely in adverse weather
> conditions.
> 
> I read the FAQ for the T1 on using it as a remote tuner, which says:
> 
>> The T1 is intended for use near the operating position. But with a little 
>> effort it could be remoted, and its extremely small size would be beneficial 
>> for this purpose. First, the tuner must be placed in a weatherproof 
>> container if used outdoors. Second, controlling the tuner remotely requires 
>> a shielded control cable back to the operating position; this cable must 
>> supply, at minimum, a simple switch closure to wake up the tuner. It’s also 
>> possible to create your own band-data interface from the rig to the ATU, as 
>> explained in the T1 Owner’s Manual. Finally, you’ll need an SWR bridge at 
>> the operating position since you won’t be able to see the LEDs on the T1.
> 
> I can see that the KX2 manual and the T1 manual give a lot of
> information about control signals and such. But before I take the time
> to try to engineer something or hack something, I'll ask the obvious
> question:
> 
> Has anybody out there done this?
> 
> Follow-up questions to anybody who has:
> 
> Can you describe your set-up?
> 
> Have any of you found a way to use the KXIO2 and either the PFn or some
> other feature to control the T1 from the KX2 through a separate
> 3-conductor cable?
> 
> Thanks and 73s. DE KC6ZKT
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1-A and T1-FT817C FOR SALE

[Randy Bright]

Michael,
I'll take it if no one else has claimed it.
Thanks,

Randy
AK4QK
Member Calhoun County Amateur Radio Assn.
NAQCC #6312

On Jul 15, 2017 2:17 PM, "Michael Raskin"  wrote:

> For sale is a brand-new, still in the box, never-used, factory assembled
> Elecraft T1-A Automatic Antenna Tuner.  New they sell for $159.95
> assembled.  Buy mine for $100.  Also have a brand-new T1-FT817C  Remote
> Control Adapter Cable which sells new for $59.95.  Buy mine for $40.  Or
> buy both for $125 plus shipping.
>
> Mike, W4UM
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to randy.ak...@gmail.com
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 doesn't tune nor read power levels

[Irma & Linas(LY2H)]

Please check the D1/D2 chain, replace if necessary . I had the similar
problem, Elecraft support advised me to do this.
More info and the schematics on my Facebook page LY2H.

73 Linas LY2H


 Forwarded message --
From: Nr4c 
To: IU6ASS <5battaglione.serv...@gmail.com>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 23:01:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft T1 doesn't tune nor read power levels
Motors? Forwarded message --
From: Nr4c 
To: IU6ASS <5battaglione.serv...@gmail.com>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 23:01:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft T1 doesn't tune nor read power levels
Motors?
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 no longer tunes.

[Gil via Elecraft]

Thanks Mike.

RF is getting out, but the bypass button no longer works...

Gil.

Michael Walker wrote:
> It also will not tune if the radio is not sending out an RF. 
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 no longer tunes.

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Is your output power to low?
I built a T1 a few weeks ago and at first it worked good, Then it started 
acting up... 
I had turned my output power down, turning it back up solved the problem.

Note: As per the manual 2-5 watts is the recommended power setting.

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 no longer tunes.

[Michael Walker]

It also will not tune if the radio is not sending out an RF.

Have you turned down your RF output to Zero?

Failing that, try resetting.

If that doesn't work, if you don't get any RF out with or without the tuner
in line, then either the finals have failed or you have a RF lead that has
failed internally between the RF board and the tuner.

I would also open it up and have a look to see if everything is firmly
connected.

Mike va3mw

On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 6:02 AM, Gil via Elecraft 
wrote:

> 9.2V
>
> kg9hfr...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Battery?
> > Frank KG9H
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to va...@portcredit.net
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 no longer tunes.

[Gil via Elecraft]

9.2V

kg9hfr...@gmail.com wrote:
> Battery?
> Frank KG9H
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 no longer tunes.

[kg9hfr...@gmail.com]

Battery?
Frank KG9H

> On Feb 5, 2017, at 6:54 PM, Gil via Elecraft  wrote:
> 
> Well, it looks like the bypass button is no longer working. Neither
> tapping or holding the button does anything...
> 
> Gil.
> 
> Gil wrote:
>> Thanks Eric. I thought about that, even removed the battery and retried...
>> Gil.
>> Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
>>> Hi Gil
>>> Make sure you have not accidentally put it in bypass mode. That is the most 
>>> common mistake made on the T1.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to kg9hfr...@gmail.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 no longer tunes.

[Gil via Elecraft]

Well, it looks like the bypass button is no longer working. Neither
tapping or holding the button does anything...

Gil.

Gil wrote:
> Thanks Eric. I thought about that, even removed the battery and retried...
> Gil.
> Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
>> Hi Gil
>> Make sure you have not accidentally put it in bypass mode. That is the most 
>> common mistake made on the T1.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 no longer tunes.

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi Gil,

Make sure you have not accidentally put it in bypass mode. That is the most 
common mistake made on the T1.

73,

Eric
elecraft.com
_..._



> On Feb 5, 2017, at 8:39 AM, Gil via Elecraft  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> My T1 doesn't tune anymore. I built it only a few weeks ago. It used to
> work just fine. Now the tuner no longer goes through the relays clicking
> routine and only shows SWR with the LEDs.
> Any suggestions? Thanks guys!
> 
> Gil, AK4YH & F4WBY.
> 
> -- 
> Development, Unix servers, Databases.
> PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
> If mail bounces try gil...@yahoo.com
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to eric.swa...@elecraft.com
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 as stopped tuning correctly.

[Steve-KI4EZL]

Thanks Don.

The antenna that I am using is the UltiMax 100 End Fed antenna with a 33' wire 
which all came from the factory as is.  It has been a super antenna, worked 
lots of state side and DX with it and the MTR 5b radio tuning with the T1.  I 
just spent a week with it up in the Smokes.  It was hung off a 31' Jakite 
fiberglass extendable pole mounted up on the rear ladder of my motorhome, about 
35' in the air.

Thanks for helping, I appreciate it.  

I heard from Gary at tech support, moments ago, and he had me test some things. 
 He thinks that there are a couple diodes gone, and offered to fix it if I send 
it in.  I also just ordered a second T1 to use when I break one of the tuners.  
I have big stuff, but don't care to use them with my little qrp radios.

Thanks again for your help.

I have very recently purchase several little kits from Elecraft, to learn how 
to build and fix on.  I also want to try building a very basic kit radio, then 
a K1.  I have all the recommended tools, the adjustable Weller solder station, 
magnification lens and light, proper solder, etc...  Hopefully, I will soon 
have the skill to handle this type of small repair job on my toys.  

I have a very nice K2 that is loaded, several little elecraft kits, and want to 
build a K1 soon.  I am also saving up for a new factory built K3s.  

Take care Don,

Thanks again,

Steve
KI4EZL

> On Aug 8, 2016, at 3:51 PM, Don Wilhelm [via Elecraft] 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve, 
> 
> That 33 foot wire may be what is giving you problems.  It is a half wave 
> on 20 meter and present an impedance greater than the T1 can tune. 
> I quote from the T1 manual: 
> "Avoid lengths close to a multiple of 1/2-wavelength on any band you plan to 
> use. If you use an end-fed wire with no feedline and/or a poor ground, 
> you may need to reduce power to avoid RFI problems with the transceiver, 
> tuner, nearby computers, portable phones, etc." 
> 
> I suggest you try a different length, or at least add a short 
> counterpoise wire.  If you are using it on 40 meters, you definitely 
> need a counterpoise wire of about 33 feet. 
> 
> 73, 
> Don W3FPR 
> 
> On 8/8/2016 2:56 PM, Steve-KI4EZL wrote:
> 
> > Thanks Don. 
> > 
> > In the video I posted on youtube, the blinking yellow is actually the self 
> > test sending code for each value. 
> > 
> > The green light was blinking when in first step of tune mode, then touch 
> > paddle to start 2nd step of tune mode.  Normally it moves around trying 
> > different tunings and latches on to the best one.  Now, it just has steady 
> > tone, steady green light, flickering yellow a tiny bit, but does not try 
> > different tunings and does not latch, and does not finish the tuning, like 
> > it use to.   I ran the self test and the blinking yellow light showed the 
> > following results. 
> > 
> > S=1R0,SWR 
> > V=8R9,BATTERY VOLTAGE 
> > L=0, INDUCTANCE 
> > C=0, CAPACITANCE 
> > N=t,  NETWORK CONFIG 
> > B=0,  BAND ID 
> > F=1R07  FIRMWARE  REVISION 
> > 
> > Tested following with neg dmm lead on neg bat tab.  No battery in device 
> > tested. Red DMM lead on parts ends, one at a time: 
> > D1:  122/0 
> > D2:  122/0 
> > R3:   120 / 117 
> > R4:   120  / 117 
> > R5:   118  /  0 
> > R6:   118  /  0 
> > 
> > Then, testing with both pos & neg DMM lead tips on each end of parts, then 
> > swapping neg for pos & vice versa, 
> > D1:  122 / 79 
> > D2:  122 / 79 
> > 
> >> On Aug 8, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm 
> >> S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > View this message in context: 
> > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-as-stopped-tuning-correctly-tp7621358p7621374.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. 
> > __ 
> > Elecraft mailing list 
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email] 
> > 
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to [hidden email] 
> >
> 
> __ 
> Elecraft mailing list 
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email] 
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email] 
> 
> 
> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion 
> below:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-as-stopped-tuning-correctly-tp7621358p7621386.html
> To unsubscribe from T1 as stopped tuning correctly., click here.
> NAML




--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-as-stopped-tuning-correctly-tp7621358p7621390.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing

Re: [Elecraft] T1 as stopped tuning correctly.

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

That 33 foot wire may be what is giving you problems.  It is a half wave 
on 20 meter and present an impedance greater than the T1 can tune.

I quote from the T1 manual:
"Avoid lengths close to a multiple of 1/2-wavelength on any band you plan to
use. If you use an end-fed wire with no feedline and/or a poor ground, 
you may need to reduce power to avoid RFI problems with the transceiver, 
tuner, nearby computers, portable phones, etc."


I suggest you try a different length, or at least add a short 
counterpoise wire.  If you are using it on 40 meters, you definitely 
need a counterpoise wire of about 33 feet.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2016 2:56 PM, Steve-KI4EZL wrote:

Thanks Don.

In the video I posted on youtube, the blinking yellow is actually the self test 
sending code for each value.

The green light was blinking when in first step of tune mode, then touch paddle 
to start 2nd step of tune mode.  Normally it moves around trying different 
tunings and latches on to the best one.  Now, it just has steady tone, steady 
green light, flickering yellow a tiny bit, but does not try different tunings 
and does not latch, and does not finish the tuning, like it use to.   I ran the 
self test and the blinking yellow light showed the following results.

S=1R0,SWR
V=8R9,BATTERY VOLTAGE
L=0, INDUCTANCE
C=0, CAPACITANCE
N=t,  NETWORK CONFIG
B=0,  BAND ID
F=1R07  FIRMWARE  REVISION

Tested following with neg dmm lead on neg bat tab.  No battery in device 
tested. Red DMM lead on parts ends, one at a time:
D1:  122/0
D2:  122/0
R3:   120 / 117
R4:   120  / 117
R5:   118  /  0
R6:   118  /  0

Then, testing with both pos & neg DMM lead tips on each end of parts, then swapping 
neg for pos & vice versa,
D1:  122 / 79
D2:  122 / 79


On Aug 8, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm
S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-as-stopped-tuning-correctly-tp7621358p7621374.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to donw...@embarqmail.com



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 as stopped tuning correctly.

[Steve-KI4EZL]

Thanks Don.

In the video I posted on youtube, the blinking yellow is actually the self test 
sending code for each value.

The green light was blinking when in first step of tune mode, then touch paddle 
to start 2nd step of tune mode.  Normally it moves around trying different 
tunings and latches on to the best one.  Now, it just has steady tone, steady 
green light, flickering yellow a tiny bit, but does not try different tunings 
and does not latch, and does not finish the tuning, like it use to.   I ran the 
self test and the blinking yellow light showed the following results.

S=1R0,SWR
V=8R9,BATTERY VOLTAGE
L=0, INDUCTANCE
C=0, CAPACITANCE
N=t,  NETWORK CONFIG
B=0,  BAND ID
F=1R07  FIRMWARE  REVISION

Tested following with neg dmm lead on neg bat tab.  No battery in device 
tested. Red DMM lead on parts ends, one at a time:
D1:  122/0
D2:  122/0
R3:   120 / 117
R4:   120  / 117
R5:   118  /  0
R6:   118  /  0

Then, testing with both pos & neg DMM lead tips on each end of parts, then 
swapping neg for pos & vice versa,
D1:  122 / 79
D2:  122 / 79

> On Aug 8, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm 
> S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-as-stopped-tuning-correctly-tp7621358p7621374.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 as stopped tuning correctly.

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

The blinking yellow LED as well as the Self Test results seem to 
indicate that the T1 is in BYPASS mode.  Tap the BYP/INFO button to 
alternate between ATU inline (green LED on).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2016 12:44 PM, Steve-KI4EZL wrote:

Hello,

My T1 tuner quit working.  It is about 5 weeks old.

I have video taped the attempt to tune and the self test, and posted it on
YouTube.  I hope this will help with the diagnosis.   Here is that link
- https://youtu.be/jprcv6q_HFQ

Station is a 33' EF wire antenna, t1 tuner, LNR MTR 5b QRP radio, Begali
traveller light iambic key.  Radio runs on AA batteries, 10-11 volts.  It
has always worked well before, but now does not tune.

Self test results: S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07.

Please advise.

Thank you,
Steve
KI4EZL



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-as-stopped-tuning-correctly-tp7621358.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to donw...@embarqmail.com



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

[lstavenhagen]

I have one that I bought fully built and it's an excellent tuner. I only
stopped using it because I have all built-in tuners now and wanted to reduce
the extra cabling. 

You'll really like it, works great. I'm not sure I'd want to actually build
one tho. My K2's already have enough super tiny parts lol.

73,
LS
W5QD



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Miniature-ATU-tp7615913p7615922.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Most of the gripes I've see are about winding the toroids. However, Michael
"the toroidguy" can supply you a set if you don't want to wind them
yourself. He's "Elecraft approved" 

http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/ToroidGuy/toroidguy_prewound_toroids.htm

That page doesn't list the T1 but I know he's done them for some builders
and they're on his order sheet you can download from that page. 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of a45wg
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 10:16 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

Fellow Hams,
I am considering adding a T1  ATU to my portable setup - any
comments/suggestions ?  

Is the kit easy or difficult to construct ?

As always your constructive comments are very appreciated

73s Tim
A45WG
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
delivered to r...@elecraft.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

[EricJ]

I bought mine assembled. It didn't look like $20 worth of fun to build. 
But, like everything I've bought from Elecraft, it is really unique, 
exceptional quality, and works very well. I was building a lot of 
off-brand (i.e. non-Elecraft) QRP rigs at the time. It was the perfect 
companion for those. Tunes almost anything, fast and very quiet.


I no longer use or need it, but it's so damn cute I can't bear to sell 
it. I recently had a problem with my K2 ATU. No problem. I used the T1 
until I could get the KAT2 on the bench.


Eric
KE6US

On 4/4/2016 10:16 AM, a45wg wrote:

Fellow Hams,
I am considering adding a T1  ATU to my portable setup - any 
comments/suggestions ?

Is the kit easy or difficult to construct ?

As always your constructive comments are very appreciated

73s Tim
A45WG
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to eric_c...@hotmail.com




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

[Bill Frantz]

It's solid as a rock and quite easy to build. Before I got 
internal tuner in my K3, I was using it for the WARC bands. 
Occasionally I would hit it with 100 watts RTTY and it survived.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 4/4/16 at 10:16 AM, t...@sy-edm.com (a45wg) wrote:

I am considering adding a T1  ATU to my portable setup - any 
comments/suggestions ?

Is the kit easy or difficult to construct ?

---
Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is 
*not* the

www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

[Don Wilhelm]

Tim,

If you can build in tight quarters with 1/8 watt resistors, you should 
have no problem.  Just beware of solder bridges.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2016 1:16 PM, a45wg wrote:

Fellow Hams,
I am considering adding a T1  ATU to my portable setup - any 
comments/suggestions ?

Is the kit easy or difficult to construct ?




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

[Dave Cole]

I picked one up used, so I can't speak to construction, beyond the
normal good Elecraft build...  However, it does seem to match just
about anything, and it is cute!
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Mon, 2016-04-04 at 21:16 +0400, a45wg wrote:
> Fellow Hams,
>   I am considering adding a T1  ATU to my portable setup - any
> comments/suggestions ?  
> 
>   Is the kit easy or difficult to construct ?
> 
>   As always your constructive comments are very appreciated
> 
>   73s Tim
>   A45WG
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to d...@nk7z.net
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Question

[James Bennett]

There is a button on the front, that needs to be pushed until the green light 
on the left starts flashing. One then has three seconds to send RF to it for it 
to either recall a stored setting or re-tune to find the best match.

There is also a side jack where one can send the correct band data to it, if it 
is available from the transmitter.

Jim / W6JHB


> On   Saturday, Dec 26, 2015, at  Saturday, 11:11 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don't know the T1 either, but the design seems simple enough: it's meant to 
> run on batteries, so one has to wake it up to do the tuning.
> 
> Does it need the band information to tune, or does it just need to be 
> "tickled" somehow to wake up the tuner?
> 
> I see a few buttons that I'm guessing would "wake" the tuner and then it'd 
> match the load and go back to sleep?
> 
> -- Lynn
> 
> On 12/26/2015 3:46 AM, Dave B via Elecraft wrote:
>> The SoftRock kits:  The embedded micro controller they use for USB<>I2C 
>> work, may have a spare pin or two, or you can hang another I2C I/O chip on 
>> the I2C bus (a PCF8574 for example) to get generic digital I/O ports.   I've 
>> done that to control a bank of band filters between the antenna and a 
>> SoftRock here.  The hardware was fairly simple, re-engineering the software 
>> however, is an "ongoing" project... 
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to w6...@me.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Question

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

I don't know the T1 either, but the design seems simple enough: it's 
meant to run on batteries, so one has to wake it up to do the tuning.


Does it need the band information to tune, or does it just need to be 
"tickled" somehow to wake up the tuner?


I see a few buttons that I'm guessing would "wake" the tuner and then 
it'd match the load and go back to sleep?


-- Lynn

On 12/26/2015 3:46 AM, Dave B via Elecraft wrote:
The SoftRock kits:  The embedded micro controller they use for 
USB<>I2C work, may have a spare pin or two, or you can hang another 
I2C I/O chip on the I2C bus (a PCF8574 for example) to get generic 
digital I/O ports.   I've done that to control a bank of band filters 
between the antenna and a SoftRock here.  The hardware was fairly 
simple, re-engineering the software however, is an "ongoing" project... 


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Question

[Dave B via Elecraft]

Hi.

I don't know the T1, but...

The WSJT programs are all open source, so you can do anything you 
want/need to do with them, subject to tools and skills availability of 
course (the latter is often the stumbling block for most of us, sadly.)


The SoftRock kits:  The embedded micro controller they use for USB<>I2C 
work, may have a spare pin or two, or you can hang another I2C I/O chip 
on the I2C bus (a PCF8574 for example) to get generic digital I/O 
ports.   I've done that to control a bank of band filters between the 
antenna and a SoftRock here.  The hardware was fairly simple, 
re-engineering the software however, is an "ongoing" project...


The other way might be to check out what Hamlib has hiding, as that is 
used with the WSJT programs for rig control.  Maybe, there is something 
in there that can send simple one byte values to a simple UART IC, that 
you can then pull some identifying code from, to poke the T1 tuner to 
change bands.   Sadly, Hamlib on Windows is usually embedded in the main 
program, so you're stuck with what it has already.


With the KX3 (+ K3, and other Kenwood remote like radios) you can also 
put the rig into AutoInfo mode, where it will spit out (among other 
things) the working frequency periodically, and when things change.   
There are other kits and products about, that can decode that info, and 
set/clear a small array of I/O bits, specifically for changing 
antenna's, and kicking ATU's into life.   It does add to the overall 
complexity however.


There is bound to be a WSJT support list/forum somewhere, you could ask 
on that to see what may be possible already to suit you needs.


73 & Seasons Greetings.

Dave G0WBX.


On 25/12/15 14:36, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the reply, but??. you are supposed to be wrapping Christmas 
presents!!!:-)

Understood about the size and cost thing. Unfortunately, it pretty much means 
that it is actually a ?semi-automatic? tuner. And, since the band changing is 
being done from within a program K1JT?s WSPR, I have a feeling I?ve got no way 
to do the remote control stuff per the manual. I?ll investigate the feasibility 
of user mods to WSPR, but not holding my breath at this point.

Thanks again, and have a happy holiday.

73, Jim


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Question

[James Bennett]

Ray - Exactly! I have the KAT500 Autotuner to go with my K3 and KPA500. Also 
have the internal tuners for the K3 and my KX3. I was thinking that the T1 
would act in a similar manner, since it IS called an Autotuner. But that part 
of it isn’t auto!!! After reading Wayne’s reply last night my first inclination 
was to put the T1 up for sale and look elsewhere for something that would work 
with the SoftRock and WSPR for multi-band use. But I’ll hang on to it for now 
and see what I can do. My WSPR software is not able to make the SoftRock send 
any sort of band/freq signal to the T1 - only a burst of RF, so the T1 WILL 
work with my setup, but not exactly in the manner I was hoping. Adding more 
outside wires is a problem for me, as we are in a HOA/CCR restricted area and 
I’m not supposed to have any antennas out there at all. As it is I have the 
doublet, an 80 meter Inverted L, a 160 meter Inverted L, a ground mounted 
Hustler 5BTV, and a 144/440 ground plane for local repeater use. I’m really 
pushing it with all that stuff, although most is fairly stealthy.

Someone suggested trying the Peaberry, but it is no longer in production. It’s 
successor, the Omnia SDR very well may be what I need to use instead of the 
SoftRock. It’s slated to be available some time in January and I sure hope to 
get one soon after they are out. I’ll use the T1 in conjunction with my 
SoftRock and WSPR, but un a semi-automatic setup for now.

73, Jim


> On   Friday, Dec 25, 2015, at  Friday, 7:00 AM, Ray Sills 
>  wrote:
> 
> HI Jim:
> 
> I saw Wayne’s response to your inquiry.  My guess is that it’s easy to assume 
> that the “auto” capability that -is- part of the larger tuners the Elecraft 
> offers (like those for the K3S, and the KPA500) also applies to the T1.  I 
> have a T1, but for my part, I have never used it but on one band at a time.  
> 
> My T1 also has the connection cable for the Yaesu FT-817.  It uses the 817’s 
> CAT port to decode the band in use, and then recalls the most recent setting 
> for that band in the T1.  
> 
> So, I’d think that there is a way to set up that dual band scenario that you 
> want to do.  In any event, I certainly don’t think you have made a “$150” 
> mistake.  The T1 is an excellent tuner.  It is designed to make use of random 
> wire lengths, as you might have to deal with for portable operation.
> 
> Another possibility for you, since only 2 bands are in play, is to add a 
> second set of antenna wires to that doublet, and make it a resonant antenna 
> for each band.  Now, of course, that takes the T1 out of play.
> 
> I’ll bet others will chime in and offer advice from their experiences.  I 
> don’t operate WSPR, so take that into account with regard to my advice.  :)
> 
> 73 de Ray
> K2ULR
> 
>> On Dec 24, 2015, at 11:50 PM, James Bennett > > wrote:
>> 
>> I hope I haven't made a $150 mistake. I'm looking for information from other 
>> T1 Automatic Antenna Tuner owners >
>> 
>> A couple months ago I built a SoftRock RXTX 1 watt transceiver to use as a 
>> WSPR sending and receiving rig. My intention was to use it on at least 20 
>> and 30 meters, with the WSPR software doing "band hopping". The WSPR 
>> software, when set to do band hopping, can be made to send a few seconds of 
>> continuous tone RF so an attached antenna tuner could do it's thing before 
>> the WSPR stuff is transmitted. The antenna I use is an 88 foot long doublet 
>> fed with 600 ohm ladder line. Obviously this antenna needs to be used with a 
>> tuner. I purchased the Elecraft T1 for this purpose.
>> 
>> I was under the impression that the "automatic" part of the T1 meant that it 
>> would recall L/C values from memory automatically, so that when the WSPR 
>> software changed bands on the SoftRock and the radio sent out it's tuning 
>> signal, the T1 would see the RF frequency and automatically set the recalled 
>> L/C values. Mine does not.
>> 
>> I am testing the newly-built T1 with my KX3. Here is what happens: First, I 
>> put the T1 into auto mode, and then I set the KX3 to a frequency on 20 
>> meters and make the T1 tune. This works fine; my SWR on the KX3 goes from 
>> ugly to 1:1. Then I go to 30 meters and do the same thing. If I now put the 
>> KX3 back on 20 meters on that exact same frequency and press my key, I have 
>> the ugly SWR back again. I thought this tuner would recall the previous 
>> setting when it saw that 20 meter RF. But alas, it does not.
>> 
>> So, my question is - have I messed something up in building the tuner, am I 
>> doing something wrong in my procedure, or have I bought myself a Christmas 
>> present I can't use?
>> 
>> Jim Bennett / W6JHB
>> Folsom, CA
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please he

Re: [Elecraft] [T1] T1 autocoupler with low power transceiver

[Ian - Ham]

Steve/All,

The Omnia-SDR web site currently shows the Peaberry v2 kit as sold out, for
both the full kit and semi-kit versions. I didn't see any information on
when they plan to restock.

Merry Christmas to all!

73 de,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038
PODXS 070 #1962
K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
inventor61 .
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2015 10:02 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [T1] T1 autocoupler with low power transceiver

The SoftRock radios are indeed inexpensive and interesting, and can be used
for WSPR and similar.

A better choice, however, could well be the Peaberry V2 replacement, soon to
be available again from Omnia SDR.  See the URL:

http://www.omnia-sdr.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65

This radio covers up to 4 bands instead of just two, costs only slightly
more than the Ensemble TXRX, is the same form factor as the Ensemble,
requires no sound card, is compatible with all SoftRock Si570 control
software, and, it directly connects to and commands the Elecraft T1 tuner.

Another poster made a comment regarding the possible incorrect choice of the
Elecraft T1 autocoupler for a particular application.  One might instead
consider that the T1 is an ideal choice, and then select a radio that works
better as an integrated-system element.

73 Steve KZ1X
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
delivered to km4ik@gmail.com


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Question

[James Bennett]

Hi Wayne, 

Thanks for the reply, but……. you are supposed to be wrapping Christmas 
presents!!! :-)

Understood about the size and cost thing. Unfortunately, it pretty much means 
that it is actually a “semi-automatic” tuner. And, since the band changing is 
being done from within a program K1JT’s WSPR, I have a feeling I’ve got no way 
to do the remote control stuff per the manual. I’ll investigate the feasibility 
of user mods to WSPR, but not holding my breath at this point.

Thanks again, and have a happy holiday.

73, Jim


> On   Thursday, Dec 24, 2015, at  Thursday, 9:24 PM, Wayne Burdick 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Jim,
> 
> The T1 does not have RF sensing capability. That would have increased the 
> size and cost of the tuner. 
> 
> It does, however, have remote-control capability, as described in the manual. 
> You can send a simple pulse stream to the T1 to go to a given band (160-6 m) 
> and recall the last-used settings. A microcontroller or PC program could be 
> used to create the pulse stream. You should only have to tune up once on each 
> band, assuming you don't change antennas. 
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> (Taking a brief break from Christmas wrapping)
> 
> 
> On Dec 24, 2015, at 8:50 PM, James Bennett  > wrote:
> 
>> I hope I haven't made a $150 mistake. I'm looking for information from other 
>> T1 Automatic Antenna Tuner owners >
>> 
>> A couple months ago I built a SoftRock RXTX 1 watt transceiver to use as a 
>> WSPR sending and receiving rig. My intention was to use it on at least 20 
>> and 30 meters, with the WSPR software doing "band hopping". The WSPR 
>> software, when set to do band hopping, can be made to send a few seconds of 
>> continuous tone RF so an attached antenna tuner could do it's thing before 
>> the WSPR stuff is transmitted. The antenna I use is an 88 foot long doublet 
>> fed with 600 ohm ladder line. Obviously this antenna needs to be used with a 
>> tuner. I purchased the Elecraft T1 for this purpose.
>> 
>> I was under the impression that the "automatic" part of the T1 meant that it 
>> would recall L/C values from memory automatically, so that when the WSPR 
>> software changed bands on the SoftRock and the radio sent out it's tuning 
>> signal, the T1 would see the RF frequency and automatically set the recalled 
>> L/C values. Mine does not.
>> 
>> I am testing the newly-built T1 with my KX3. Here is what happens: First, I 
>> put the T1 into auto mode, and then I set the KX3 to a frequency on 20 
>> meters and make the T1 tune. This works fine; my SWR on the KX3 goes from 
>> ugly to 1:1. Then I go to 30 meters and do the same thing. If I now put the 
>> KX3 back on 20 meters on that exact same frequency and press my key, I have 
>> the ugly SWR back again. I thought this tuner would recall the previous 
>> setting when it saw that 20 meter RF. But alas, it does not.
>> 
>> So, my question is - have I messed something up in building the tuner, am I 
>> doing something wrong in my procedure, or have I bought myself a Christmas 
>> present I can't use?
>> 
>> Jim Bennett / W6JHB
>> Folsom, CA
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com 
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Question

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Jim,

The T1 does not have RF sensing capability. That would have increased the size 
and cost of the tuner. 

It does, however, have remote-control capability, as described in the manual. 
You can send a simple pulse stream to the T1 to go to a given band (160-6 m) 
and recall the last-used settings. A microcontroller or PC program could be 
used to create the pulse stream. You should only have to tune up once on each 
band, assuming you don't change antennas. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR

(Taking a brief break from Christmas wrapping)


On Dec 24, 2015, at 8:50 PM, James Bennett  wrote:

> I hope I haven't made a $150 mistake. I'm looking for information from other 
> T1 Automatic Antenna Tuner owners >
> 
> A couple months ago I built a SoftRock RXTX 1 watt transceiver to use as a 
> WSPR sending and receiving rig. My intention was to use it on at least 20 and 
> 30 meters, with the WSPR software doing "band hopping". The WSPR software, 
> when set to do band hopping, can be made to send a few seconds of continuous 
> tone RF so an attached antenna tuner could do it's thing before the WSPR 
> stuff is transmitted. The antenna I use is an 88 foot long doublet fed with 
> 600 ohm ladder line. Obviously this antenna needs to be used with a tuner. I 
> purchased the Elecraft T1 for this purpose.
> 
> I was under the impression that the "automatic" part of the T1 meant that it 
> would recall L/C values from memory automatically, so that when the WSPR 
> software changed bands on the SoftRock and the radio sent out it's tuning 
> signal, the T1 would see the RF frequency and automatically set the recalled 
> L/C values. Mine does not.
> 
> I am testing the newly-built T1 with my KX3. Here is what happens: First, I 
> put the T1 into auto mode, and then I set the KX3 to a frequency on 20 meters 
> and make the T1 tune. This works fine; my SWR on the KX3 goes from ugly to 
> 1:1. Then I go to 30 meters and do the same thing. If I now put the KX3 back 
> on 20 meters on that exact same frequency and press my key, I have the ugly 
> SWR back again. I thought this tuner would recall the previous setting when 
> it saw that 20 meter RF. But alas, it does not.
> 
> So, my question is - have I messed something up in building the tuner, am I 
> doing something wrong in my procedure, or have I bought myself a Christmas 
> present I can't use?
> 
> Jim Bennett / W6JHB
> Folsom, CA
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Diode D3

[GeorgeP1111]

I bought a 1N5817 and replaced D3..Works Fine.

I picked up a few spares in case I need one for my other T1 I have remoted
outside feeding my 44' doublet, been out there for almost a year now and
still doing the job.

de George
WD0AKZ

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Diode-D3-tp7558064p7558712.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU problem?

[Bruce Beford]

BTW Sidney-

If you are using the K1 you bought from me, keep in mind it has the KAT1
internal tuner. There should generally  be no need to use the T1 with it. If
you -do- use the T1, remember to put the internal tuner in the K1 in CLS or
CLP mode. See page 11 of the KAT1 manual I provided.

73,

Bruce, N1RX

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU problem?

[Bruce Beford]

Sidney- This is normal.
Take a look at the schematic for the T1 tuner (in the manual) and you will
see there is a DC path through transformer T2.

BTW- you can not/should not put your swr meter between the T1 tuner and the
antenna. It rightly belongs between the tuner and the radio.
GL,
Bruce, N1RX


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Temperature Limits?

[GeorgeP1111]

Thanks to all that responded.

I did consider heater like Ron suggested, but in my remote control
configuration the DC power is going to be supplied only while the station is
in use (12v bench supply is on).  Turning on the 12v supply to the tuner
energizes a relay removing the antenna from ground and applying it to the
balun, it turns on the tuner, and after 2 seconds it pulls the tune command
line low for 1 second to initiate tuning.  When I turn off the bench supply,
the tuner shuts off and the antenna relay grounds the antenna so the heater
would also be off.

I could work around all of this by running a multi-cable out to the tuner
for pwr/control vs running the DC on the coax as planned which I may end up
having to do We'll See.

tnx agn for the suggestions/help.

de George
WD0AKZ
dit - dit

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Operational-Temperature-Limits-tp6643567p6647405.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Temperature Limits?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I think I'd invest in a small foam box for it and include a 50 to 100 ohm 1
or 2 watt resistor across the power feed from the shack (since the 9V
battery won't withstand those temps for long anyway). That way the T1 will
remain warm 24x7 if you maintain the dc supply. That also avoids
condensation. 

Optionally you can include a thermal switch to kick in power for heat as
needed. If you don't want to design an electronic one, cannibalize a cheap
furnace thermostat.

Ron AC7AC  



On Mon, 01 Aug 2011 20:41:08 -0700, GeorgeP  wrote:

> I'm just about ready to put up a 44' Doublet and feed it with 300 ohm  
> Twin
> Lead.  I'm going to connect the Twin Lead to a balun and the T1 at the  
> base
> of the Doublet mast and run about 35' of RG213 back to the shack and my
> FT-817ND (soon to be a KX3).
>
> I was wondering if the T1 could withstand the cold temperatures we get  
> here
> in Minnesota.  I wrote Elecraft Support asking if there were any specs  
> or if
> they thought a temp of -30 to +100 F would cause any problems.  Dale
> responded, "We do not have any real information on what the temperature
> limits are, so we suggest you post on the reflector and ask for input  
> from
> other T1 users who have over the years had T1's out in varying  
> environmental
> conditions."
>
> Any "Snowmen" out there?
>
> Also I'll be needing a BL2 balun so if someone has one they don't
> need/use, drop me a note off list.
>
> tnx
> de George
> WD0AKZ
>
> pasek...@umn.edu

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Temperature Limits?

[Tony Estep]

On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 12:10 AM, Fred Townsend wrote:

> ...BTW the military now uses a lot of COTS products. COTS means Commercial
> Off
> The Shelf. That's mostly because COTS works well and is a whole lot
> cheaper
>
-

Yeah, here's a story about that: one of my sons is a researcher at Penn
State engineering some stuff for the Navy that involves position/motion
sensors. They were using a MilSpec gadget that cost hundreds of dollars, but
they replaced it with some stuff from the inside of a Wii that cost 60 cents
and worked much better. Now they (and many others) are building gadgets
based on hacking up a Kinect.

Tony KT0NY

-- 
http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Temperature Limits?

[Fred Townsend]

George: I don't see a big problem with low temps. In my younger years I used
to do a lot of environmental testing for locations around the world
including the north slope of Alaska. Most components work very well. Things
like CMOS slow down a bit when they get hot so cold is better. The gain of
transistors does fall off a bit when cold but that is seldom a problem. The
things we had the most problem with were not semiconductors. Vinyl and some
other plastics get very brittle at even moderately low temperatures. Things
like LCDs may have a problem. LCDs definitely get cooked by uv so you will
want to protect from sustained direct sunlight. Finally switches and other
mechanical devices that are lubricated need to be relubricated with a
silicon base grease rather than a carbon base.

BTW the military now uses a lot of COTS products. COTS means Commercial Off
The Shelf. That's mostly because COTS works well and is a whole lot cheaper.


de Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of GeorgeP
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 8:41 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Temperature Limits?

I'm just about ready to put up a 44' Doublet and feed it with 300 ohm Twin
Lead.  I'm going to connect the Twin Lead to a balun and the T1 at the base
of the Doublet mast and run about 35' of RG213 back to the shack and my
FT-817ND (soon to be a KX3).

I was wondering if the T1 could withstand the cold temperatures we get here
in Minnesota.  I wrote Elecraft Support asking if there were any specs or if
they thought a temp of -30 to +100 F would cause any problems.  Dale
responded, "We do not have any real information on what the temperature
limits are, so we suggest you post on the reflector and ask for input from
other T1 users who have over the years had T1's out in varying environmental
conditions."

Any "Snowmen" out there?

Also I'll be needing a BL2 balun so if someone has one they don't
need/use, drop me a note off list.

tnx
de George
WD0AKZ

pasek...@umn.edu


--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Operational-Temperature-Limits-tp664
3567p6643567.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Operational Temperature Limits?

[Kevin Rock]

-30?  What about the really cold temperatures you get in late January and  
early February?  I am from Wisconsin and it hit -65 one night.  It was  
rather brisk out to say the least.  You may want to bring the T1 inside at  
that point and keep it warm.  I doubt the T1 is built to milspec standards  
nor does it use milspec parts.  Below -20F you may experience some thermal  
contraction issues which are different for each material in the gadget.   
That 'could' break a few connections.  But I will wait until the  
empiricists arrive for some stories of how the T1 survived a real winter.
VY 73,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS
   Wisconsin born and bred which is why my melting point is only  
slightly above that of water :)




On Mon, 01 Aug 2011 20:41:08 -0700, GeorgeP  wrote:

> I'm just about ready to put up a 44' Doublet and feed it with 300 ohm  
> Twin
> Lead.  I'm going to connect the Twin Lead to a balun and the T1 at the  
> base
> of the Doublet mast and run about 35' of RG213 back to the shack and my
> FT-817ND (soon to be a KX3).
>
> I was wondering if the T1 could withstand the cold temperatures we get  
> here
> in Minnesota.  I wrote Elecraft Support asking if there were any specs  
> or if
> they thought a temp of -30 to +100 F would cause any problems.  Dale
> responded, "We do not have any real information on what the temperature
> limits are, so we suggest you post on the reflector and ask for input  
> from
> other T1 users who have over the years had T1's out in varying  
> environmental
> conditions."
>
> Any "Snowmen" out there?
>
> Also I'll be needing a BL2 balun so if someone has one they don't
> need/use, drop me a note off list.
>
> tnx
> de George
> WD0AKZ
>
> pasek...@umn.edu
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:  
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Operational-Temperature-Limits-tp6643567p6643567.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Firmware Mod?

[Bruce Beford]

> Could the T1 be modified to give CW read out of last freq matched by it?
> Thanks, Danny Dyer, Wb4idu.

Hi, Danny. I saw that you asked this question before, but no one responded.
The T1 does not have the ability to measure the frequency it is matching.
So, the short answer is no, the T1 cannot be modified to "read out" the
frequency in CW. Now that I've gone and said that, Wayne may come up with a
way to sample the VFWD power sample and write new code to cram into the
controller, etc. But, I doubt it is worth the effort required.

I understand you are a non-sighted ham. It sounds like you want some sort of
CW output frequency counter? If you give specifics about your needs, perhaps
someone can suggest possible solutions.

73,
Bruce, N1RX



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Feature Comment Please?

[Wayne Burdick]

Danny,

The frequencies on which you can hear T1 CW information will vary from  
one unit to the next because of small variations in the frequency of  
the microcontroller's crystal oscillator.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Mar 21, 2011, at 4:18 PM, Dan B Dyer Jr,/Danny wrote:

> Has anyone discovered a frequency where the T1 _Always gives CW  
> readout information, _Regardless of what freq is matched with it?
> Thanks, Danny Dyer, Wb4idu.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Feature Comment Please?

[Don Wilhelm]

  Danny,

I refer you to the T1 Owner's manual page 11 for a full explanation - 
particularly the first and last paragraphs.  The frequency that the INFO 
report data is send will vary (and drift) due to variations in the 
ceramic resonator frequency.  In other words, "Always" is not possible 
because of drift in the resonator - it is not a precise frequency 
standard, but simply a device intended to provide a clock to the MCU.

You might design a crystal based MCU oscillator that would have a more 
consistent frequency, but I doubt you could squeeze it into the T1 
enclosure.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/21/2011 7:18 PM,  Dan B Dyer Jr,/Danny wrote:
> Has anyone discovered a frequency where the T1 _Always gives CW readout 
> information, _Regardless of what freq is matched with it?
> Thanks, Danny Dyer, Wb4idu.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote tuning

[GeorgeP1111]

dw-4 wrote:
> 
> Hi George,
> If your interested in sharing, I would be interested in your config for
> your tuner.
> I'm in the process of acquiring parts for an updated unit that handle a
> kw.
> So I'm curious on how anyone is building remote tuners these days :)
> 


Hi Duane...

I think you may have misunderstood my post.  I'm not building a remote
tuner, I'm building a interface to use the T1 tuner's remote control tuning
option so I can mount the T1 outside at the antenna sight.

That being said, basically what I'm doing is sending my 13.8vdc bench supply
out the coax to the remote interface where is dropped to 9v to power ON the
T1 and 5v to start a PIC counting 2 seconds (to allow the T1 to boot up and
stabilize) then pulling the tune line low for 1 second to initiate the T1's
TUNE function.  After the T1 tunes up, the 13.8v is turned OFF until next
tune-up is needed.  Actually, the way I'm probably going to configure it is
to use a NC push button from the my 13.8v bench supply to keep power applied
to the T1 when the station is running because I think I'm going to put a
DPDT relay out there also (in the interface) to ground the antenna when the
station is not in use.  Momentary pushing the button would restart the T1 &
PIC activating the TUNE.

73's

de George
WD0AKZ

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-T1-Remote-tuning-tp6162460p6164386.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote tuning

[dw]

Hi George,
If your interested in sharing, I would be interested in your config for
your tuner.
I built a form of the remote "balanced-balanced" tuner for a 135'
doublet a few years before remote tuners came out on the market.
It didn't not have the ability to tune up/dwn within each band.
Only the ability to switch to one pre-set set-point for each band.
I controlled it with a PIC inside the house activating an old stepper
switch.
It was primarily a split coil ( one series coil on each side of the
ladder line ) and a cap between the two, with tapped points for coil and
separate caps for each band.

Later on I found out that a simple L-network would work just as well and
I've been using that config ever since.  With that doublets
characteristics, I found that 10uh was all I needed for the "L" and
2000pf was the max I needed for the "C".

I'm CW only, so in the upper bands the bandwidth was sufficient.
But on 40, 80 and 160, "C" adjustment would be needed for the full
spectrum of the CW portion @ low swr.

I'm in the process of acquiring parts for an updated unit that handle a
kw.
So I'm curious on how anyone is building remote tuners these days :)
Thanks
Duane
N1BBR
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[Vic K2VCO]

I did an experiment in which I connected an open-wire-fed 88 foot dipole to my 
K3 through 
a large balun. The KAT3 matched it perfectly on all bands, but I wondered about 
the 
efficiency of this system compared to a balanced tuner like my old Johnson 
Matchbox.

So I measured the temperature rise of the balun after transmitting for a minute 
and 
recorded it. It was several degrees. Then I added a pair of capacitors in 
series with the 
feeders to tune out the reactance (it happened to be inductive on the band that 
I was 
testing) and re-ran the experiment (after waiting several hours for the balun 
to return to 
room temperature). The temperature rise was much less, almost unmeasurable!

I think this showed that the "tuner-to-balun" system can be inefficient under 
some 
conditions. I went back to the Matchbox, even though I had to give up the 
automatic tuning 
provided by the KAT3.

On 3/11/2011 12:22 AM, David Cutter wrote:
> Jim
>
> I like the idea of a battery operated remote tuner and a simple relay
> change-over to provide a top-loaded vertical.  I'm often bothered by
> connecting the antenna feeder into a 1:1 balun and then to the tuner.  I've
> read that the very large impedance mis-match can lead to large losses in the
> balun on some frequencies, though you might not *feel* it with low power.
> With a self-powered little tuner, it would be easy to raise it off the
> ground a little and connect the ladder line feeder directly to the tuner;
> then coil some thin coax through a ferrite toroid to make a choke (see Jim
> Brown's excellent articles - K9YC) for connection to your RG213.  This
> should also result in less noise pick up on receive.  Some folks add a
> further choke at the shack end to further reduce received noise.
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
>
>> I've been running my T1 remote out under my 88ft dipole which is just
>> short
>> of 50ft in the air at the midpoint. The ends are a bit higher. The T1 is
>> down at the ground under a plastic container and connected to the
>> windowline
>> via a Elecraft 1:1 balun. I remote control it via the circuit on my
>> website
>> www.jtmiller.com . I find it gets a 1:1 match on 80-6 meters. It is
>> connected to my K3 about 60ft away via RG213.
>>
>> Obviously the pattern is a bit of a daisy above 20M and is mostly a cloud
>> warmer at 80M and below. But that's just what this length dipole does
>> independent of match.
>>
>> I've lately been using the windowline as a vertical with the 88ft as a
>> capacity hat on 80-160 and found it works quite well. The T1 is very happy
>> matching that on 80M and gets to about 2:1 on 160. I use my K3 internal
>> tuner to remove the remaining mismatch on 160 to ensure proper power meter
>> readings. The loss due to this level of SWR on 160 with RG213 is
>> meaningless.
>>
>> When used in this vertical configuration the two ends of the windowline
>> are
>> tied together to one terminal of the tuner and the other side connects to
>> 8
>> 60ft buried radials.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Jim ab3cv
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[David Cutter]

Jim

I like the idea of a battery operated remote tuner and a simple relay 
change-over to provide a top-loaded vertical.  I'm often bothered by 
connecting the antenna feeder into a 1:1 balun and then to the tuner.  I've 
read that the very large impedance mis-match can lead to large losses in the 
balun on some frequencies, though you might not *feel* it with low power. 
With a self-powered little tuner, it would be easy to raise it off the 
ground a little and connect the ladder line feeder directly to the tuner; 
then coil some thin coax through a ferrite toroid to make a choke (see Jim 
Brown's excellent articles - K9YC) for connection to your RG213.  This 
should also result in less noise pick up on receive.  Some folks add a 
further choke at the shack end to further reduce received noise.

David
G3UNA


> I've been running my T1 remote out under my 88ft dipole which is just 
> short
> of 50ft in the air at the midpoint. The ends are a bit higher. The T1 is
> down at the ground under a plastic container and connected to the 
> windowline
> via a Elecraft 1:1 balun. I remote control it via the circuit on my 
> website
> www.jtmiller.com . I find it gets a 1:1 match on 80-6 meters. It is
> connected to my K3 about 60ft away via RG213.
>
> Obviously the pattern is a bit of a daisy above 20M and is mostly a cloud
> warmer at 80M and below. But that's just what this length dipole does
> independent of match.
>
> I've lately been using the windowline as a vertical with the 88ft as a
> capacity hat on 80-160 and found it works quite well. The T1 is very happy
> matching that on 80M and gets to about 2:1 on 160. I use my K3 internal
> tuner to remove the remaining mismatch on 160 to ensure proper power meter
> readings. The loss due to this level of SWR on 160 with RG213 is
> meaningless.
>
> When used in this vertical configuration the two ends of the windowline 
> are
> tied together to one terminal of the tuner and the other side connects to 
> 8
> 60ft buried radials.
>
> 73
>
> Jim ab3cv 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[GeorgeP1111]

Jim AB3CV wrote:
> 
> I've been running my T1 remote out under my 88ft dipole which is just
> short
> of 50ft in the air at the midpoint. The ends are a bit higher. The T1 is
> down at the ground under a plastic container and connected to the
> windowline
> via a Elecraft 1:1 balun. I remote control it via the circuit on my
> website
> www.jtmiller.com . I find it gets a 1:1 match on 80-6 meters. It is
> connected to my K3 about 60ft away via RG213.

This is also good to hear.  Sounds like spring time will definitely be
antenna season.

Tns for the input.

73's
de George
WD0AKZ 

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Remote-Tuning-and-Power-Supply-tp5744646p6159970.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[Jim Miller]

Hi George

I've been running my T1 remote out under my 88ft dipole which is just short
of 50ft in the air at the midpoint. The ends are a bit higher. The T1 is
down at the ground under a plastic container and connected to the windowline
via a Elecraft 1:1 balun. I remote control it via the circuit on my website
www.jtmiller.com . I find it gets a 1:1 match on 80-6 meters. It is
connected to my K3 about 60ft away via RG213.

Obviously the pattern is a bit of a daisy above 20M and is mostly a cloud
warmer at 80M and below. But that's just what this length dipole does
independent of match.

I've lately been using the windowline as a vertical with the 88ft as a
capacity hat on 80-160 and found it works quite well. The T1 is very happy
matching that on 80M and gets to about 2:1 on 160. I use my K3 internal
tuner to remove the remaining mismatch on 160 to ensure proper power meter
readings. The loss due to this level of SWR on 160 with RG213 is
meaningless.

When used in this vertical configuration the two ends of the windowline are
tied together to one terminal of the tuner and the other side connects to 8
60ft buried radials.

73

Jim ab3cv

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:33 AM, GeorgeP  wrote:

> Hi Bill
>
> Quite a while back you sent me this request (I didn't forget).  I'm done
> with the schematic of the T1 remote tuning interface that I hope to find
> time to build.  If you are still interested, I can shoot you over a copy of
> it.  The Tiny CAD program I use to draw schematics only allows me to export
> them in .emf format, but using Windows Viewer (double click on the .emf
> file) will allow it to be viewed and printed.
>
> Anyhow, I was going to use the T1 to tune a 88' dipole fed with twin lead
> to be used as a multi-band antenna, but upon further research on this
> antenna I don't think the T1 has enough to be able to tune it.  I am still
> going to build the interface because sooner or later I will probably be
> moving into a restricted area and need to use some sort of stealthy antenna.
>
> 73's
> de George
> WD0AKZ
>
>
>
>  George,
>
>  I would be most interested in what you come up with?  IF you have the time
>  please keep me informed.
>
>  Bill
>  K9YEQ
>
>  -Original Message-
>  From: [hidden email]
>  [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of GeorgeP
>  Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:25 AM
>  To: [hidden email]
>  Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply
>
>
>  I am in the process of slowly reconfiguring my station for the inevitable
>  future move to a condo or antenna restricted area where I will have to
> play
>  the "Stealth" antenna game.  My station comprises of a Yaesu FT-817ND, W1
>  PWR/SWR Indicator, 3ft diameter remotely tuned home built 20m-10m Magnetic
>  Loop antenna, and a 80/40 meter Trapped Dipole using the T1 Tuner for fine
>  tuning.  I figure I can always wrap plastic flowers around the Mag Loop
> and
>  pass it off as a Christmas Wreath, but I will still want some sort of
>  outdoor wire using the T1 tuner for the lower bands.
>
>  I want to use the T1 at the antenna end vs the radio end as I am now.  I
>  know that the T1 has the ability to be remotely tuned via the port on the
>  side, but I want to kick it up a notch.  I'm running DC up the coax to
>  control the capacitor motor in my Mag Loop using the standard
>  inductor/capacitor configuration, and I want to follow the same plan for
> the
>  T1.  The idea is to use a push button to supply the 9v (I'll probably use
> a
>  higher voltage and reduce it at the tuner to compensate for line loss) via
>  the coax to the T1 (vs using the internal battery) and a LM556 Dual Timer
> at
>  the T1.  Key Up, Push and hold the button, the T1 turns on and boots up
> and
>  at the same time the LM556 starts timing.  After a preset amount of time
> (1
>  second?) the LM556 would pull the Tune line low via a Optical Isolator for
>  say 1 second starting the Tune function.  Watch the SWR on the FT-817 or
> the
>  W1 and when it stabilizes low, release the button and unkey.
>
>  Granted, I could leave the internal battery installed and just use the 9v
> to
>  pull the Optical Isolator low but by adding the LM556 I can eliminate the
>  battery as well.
>
>  I know the power via coax will work, and the LM556 (or even a PIC) will
>  work, so I guess I'm asking if there is a problem with turning On/Off the
>  power to the T1 and is 1 second enough time to stabilize prior to
> initiating
>  Tune?
>
>  tnx
>
>  de George
>  WD0AKZ
>  --
>  View this message in context:
>
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Remote-Tuning-and-Power-Supply-tp574
>  4646p5744646.html
>  Sent from the [MM] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>  __
>  Elecraft mailing list
>  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>  Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>  Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
>  This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>  Please help support t

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[GeorgeP1111]

Thanks Michael Maybe I'll continue with my plans and give it a try this
spring.

de George
WD0AKZ

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Remote-Tuning-and-Power-Supply-tp5744646p6159746.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[Michael Babineau]

George :

Don't under-estimate the T1. 

I have used it with a 44 foot doublet fed with twisted pair made from #26 AWG 
Teflon coated, silver plated wire and it tunes nicely from 40m through 10m. 
The 88 ft version should tune just fine on 80m with some tweaking.  As with 
pretty much any antenna the impedance will vary somewhat as a function
of height. In my experience if you are going to have tuning issues with an 88ft 
or 44ft doublet, it will most likely be on the lowest band, where it is a bit 
short of 
a half wavelength.  Usually this can be rectified by shortening the parallel 
feedline by a few inches to present a more reasonable impedance to the tuner so 
be sure 
to leave some extra feedline length as you will likely need to do some pruning 
once the antenna is installed. 

Best of luck 

Michael VE3WMB / VA2NB 

>From: GeorgeP 
>Date: March 10, 2011 10:33:47 AM EST
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply


>Hi Bill

>Quite a while back you sent me this request (I didn't forget).  I'm done with 
>the schematic of the T1 remote tuning interface that I hope to find time to 
>build.  If you are still interested, I can shoot you over a copy >of it.  The 
>Tiny CAD program I use to draw schematics only allows me to export them in 
>.emf format, but using Windows Viewer (double click on the .emf file) will 
>allow it to be viewed and printed.

>Anyhow, I was going to use the T1 to tune a 88' dipole fed with twin lead to 
>be used as a multi-band antenna, but upon further research on this antenna I 
>don't think the T1 has enough to be able to tune it.  I >am still going to 
>build the interface because sooner or later I will probably be moving into a 
>restricted area and need to use some sort of stealthy antenna.

>73's
>de George
>WD0AKZ
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[GeorgeP1111]

Hi Bill

Quite a while back you sent me this request (I didn't forget).  I'm done with 
the schematic of the T1 remote tuning interface that I hope to find time to 
build.  If you are still interested, I can shoot you over a copy of it.  The 
Tiny CAD program I use to draw schematics only allows me to export them in .emf 
format, but using Windows Viewer (double click on the .emf file) will allow it 
to be viewed and printed.

Anyhow, I was going to use the T1 to tune a 88' dipole fed with twin lead to be 
used as a multi-band antenna, but upon further research on this antenna I don't 
think the T1 has enough to be able to tune it.  I am still going to build the 
interface because sooner or later I will probably be moving into a restricted 
area and need to use some sort of stealthy antenna.

73's
de George
WD0AKZ



  George, 

  I would be most interested in what you come up with?  IF you have the time 
  please keep me informed. 

  Bill 
  K9YEQ 

  -Original Message- 
  From: [hidden email] 
  [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of GeorgeP 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:25 AM 
  To: [hidden email] 
  Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply 


  I am in the process of slowly reconfiguring my station for the inevitable 
  future move to a condo or antenna restricted area where I will have to play 
  the "Stealth" antenna game.  My station comprises of a Yaesu FT-817ND, W1 
  PWR/SWR Indicator, 3ft diameter remotely tuned home built 20m-10m Magnetic 
  Loop antenna, and a 80/40 meter Trapped Dipole using the T1 Tuner for fine 
  tuning.  I figure I can always wrap plastic flowers around the Mag Loop and 
  pass it off as a Christmas Wreath, but I will still want some sort of 
  outdoor wire using the T1 tuner for the lower bands. 

  I want to use the T1 at the antenna end vs the radio end as I am now.  I 
  know that the T1 has the ability to be remotely tuned via the port on the 
  side, but I want to kick it up a notch.  I'm running DC up the coax to 
  control the capacitor motor in my Mag Loop using the standard 
  inductor/capacitor configuration, and I want to follow the same plan for the 
  T1.  The idea is to use a push button to supply the 9v (I'll probably use a 
  higher voltage and reduce it at the tuner to compensate for line loss) via 
  the coax to the T1 (vs using the internal battery) and a LM556 Dual Timer at 
  the T1.  Key Up, Push and hold the button, the T1 turns on and boots up and 
  at the same time the LM556 starts timing.  After a preset amount of time (1 
  second?) the LM556 would pull the Tune line low via a Optical Isolator for 
  say 1 second starting the Tune function.  Watch the SWR on the FT-817 or the 
  W1 and when it stabilizes low, release the button and unkey. 

  Granted, I could leave the internal battery installed and just use the 9v to 
  pull the Optical Isolator low but by adding the LM556 I can eliminate the 
  battery as well. 

  I know the power via coax will work, and the LM556 (or even a PIC) will 
  work, so I guess I'm asking if there is a problem with turning On/Off the 
  power to the T1 and is 1 second enough time to stabilize prior to initiating 
  Tune? 

  tnx 

  de George 
  WD0AKZ 
  -- 
  View this message in context: 
  http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Remote-Tuning-and-Power-Supply-tp574
  4646p5744646.html 
  Sent from the [MM] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. 
  __ 
  Elecraft mailing list 
  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
  Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
  Post: mailto:[hidden email] 

  This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
  Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

  __ 
  Elecraft mailing list 
  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
  Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
  Post: mailto:[hidden email] 

  This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
  Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



--

  View message @ 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Remote-Tuning-and-Power-Supply-tp5744646p5744981.html
 
  To unsubscribe from T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply, click here. 



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Remote-Tuning-and-Power-Supply-tp5744646p6158175.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 build...

[Don Wilhelm]

  Ross,

Who knows what the L and C values are that are in your T1 until you do a 
TUNE.  The incication of a low SWR when the T1 is in bypass indicates 
that there is residual reactance when in non-bypass.  Doing a TUNE 
should straighten things out.  The settings are remembered by band, so 
do a TUNE on each band.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/6/2011 8:22 PM, Ross Primrose N4RP wrote:
> OK, so I finished the build yesterday, and today, after I built another
> BNC-PL259 cable so I could hook it up, I did the performance tests.
> Everything seems OK, except the transmit power display tests.  The T1
> shows the correct power level, but the K3 indicates at>10:1 SWR during
> the power measurement.  Bypass mode works fine, if I put the T1 in
> bypass and hit the tune switch on the K3 the dummy load gives a 1:1 SWR,
> it's only a problem when trying to display power
>
> Ideas?
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 build...

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

OK, so I finished the build yesterday, and today, after I built another 
BNC-PL259 cable so I could hook it up, I did the performance tests.  
Everything seems OK, except the transmit power display tests.  The T1 
shows the correct power level, but the K3 indicates at >10:1 SWR during 
the power measurement.  Bypass mode works fine, if I put the T1 in 
bypass and hit the tune switch on the K3 the dummy load gives a 1:1 SWR, 
it's only a problem when trying to display power

Ideas?

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/4/11 2:26 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>  Ross,
>
> You are looking too hard!  Most of the Elecraft tuners use the same 
> technique - the selected relay is activated and the return path flows 
> through all the rest of the other relay coils - there is not enough 
> current through any one coil to activate them, and it works quite well 
> - one more piece of "magic" that can be done using PICs.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/4/2011 1:30 PM, Ross Primrose N4RP wrote:
>> Got my T1 kit last night, got the parts inventoried, and got up to where
>> I need to start winding the toroids... I did notice one thing on the
>> schematic that left me puzzled though, there doesn't seem to be any DC
>> return path for the relay coils. Am I missing something?
>>
>> 73, Ross N4RP
>>


-- 
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 build...

[Don Wilhelm]

  Ross,

You are looking too hard!  Most of the Elecraft tuners use the same 
technique - the selected relay is activated and the return path flows 
through all the rest of the other relay coils - there is not enough 
current through any one coil to activate them, and it works quite well - 
one more piece of "magic" that can be done using PICs.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2011 1:30 PM, Ross Primrose N4RP wrote:
> Got my T1 kit last night, got the parts inventoried, and got up to where
> I need to start winding the toroids... I did notice one thing on the
> schematic that left me puzzled though, there doesn't seem to be any DC
> return path for the relay coils. Am I missing something?
>
> 73, Ross N4RP
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Way back during the field test one or two fellows pumped about 40 watts
through one, but I'm not sure what impedance the T1 was looking into. 

The issues with higher powers are:

1 - Saturating the toroid cores with high currents. Need physically larger
toroids (like the KPA100/KAT3) to avoid that. 

2 - Voltage breakdown ratings of the capacitors used. High voltage
capacitors tend to be physically big caps.

3 - Voltage and current handling capabilities of the relays used. Ditto 2
(above). 


So if you used bigger inductors, bigger capacitors and bigger relays you can
probably go as far as you want, but it sure won't look like a T1 any longer
- it'll be much, much larger. 

Of course all of those things vary widely with the SWR too. If a tuner is
used to correct nothing more than a 2:1 or 3:1 mismatch such as might be
typically seen looking into a nominally resonant antenna (like many tuners
built into rigs today), the currents and voltages will be much less than if
one tries to load a random wire or multiband doublet. 

So the moral of the story is that a tuner designed to handle both power and
a wide range of impedances is a BIG tuner. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Thanks for your help just the same.
I wonder if anyone tried to modify this atu to higher power  ratings, say
100 watts !



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1

[Pawlu]

Thanks for your help just the same.
I wonder if anyone tried to modify this atu to higher power  ratings, say
100 watts !



On 13 February 2011 20:50, Bill Hammond  wrote:

> Pawlu,
> I believe the software is all contained in the MCU, U1 MCU,16F876A and
> loaded at Altos.  I took mine apart and it is marked T1 1.07.  I assume that
> is the software designation.   I have looked at  the Elecraft pages
> concerning the T1 and can find no reference to software changes.  If there
> are later versions there is no reference.  Unless you have PIC programming
> experience and the proper programming jig, you may have issues loading new
> code. Perhaps a note to Elecraft service could clear up this question?
> Cheers,
> Bill
>
>
>
> On Feb 13, 2011, at 12:30 PM, Pawlu wrote:
>
> Mike, sorry its the T1 automatic atu. It is not on their list
>
>
>
> On 13 February 2011 17:05, Mike  wrote:
>
> Pawlu -
>
>
> If you mean the W1 it's here.
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/software/elecraft_software_page.htm
>
>
> 73, Mike NF4L
>
>
> On 2/13/2011 7:58 AM, Pawlu wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Anyone knows where I can download the software for the T1 please
>
> __
>
> Elecraft mailing list
>
>
>
> Bill Hammond-AK5X
> wham...@aol.com
> a...@mac.com
> a...@sbcglobal.net
> K3 #69
> K2/100 #4637
> K1 #2033
> KX1 #1023
> T1
>
>
>
>
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1

[Bill Hammond]

Pawlu,
I believe the software is all contained in the MCU, U1 MCU,16F876A and loaded 
at Altos.  I took mine apart and it is marked T1 1.07.  I assume that is the 
software designation.   I have looked at  the Elecraft pages concerning the T1 
and can find no reference to software changes.  If there are later versions 
there is no reference.  Unless you have PIC programming experience and the 
proper programming jig, you may have issues loading new code. Perhaps a note to 
Elecraft service could clear up this question?
Cheers,
Bill



On Feb 13, 2011, at 12:30 PM, Pawlu wrote:

> Mike, sorry its the T1 automatic atu. It is not on their list
> 
> 
> 
> On 13 February 2011 17:05, Mike  wrote:
> 
>> Pawlu -
>> 
>> If you mean the W1 it's here.
>> http://www.elecraft.com/software/elecraft_software_page.htm
>> 
>> 73, Mike NF4L
>> 
>> On 2/13/2011 7:58 AM, Pawlu wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>> Anyone knows where I can download the software for the T1 please
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> 

Bill Hammond-AK5X
wham...@aol.com
a...@mac.com
a...@sbcglobal.net
K3 #69
K2/100 #4637
K1 #2033
KX1 #1023
T1




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1

[Pawlu]

Mike, sorry its the T1 automatic atu. It is not on their list



On 13 February 2011 17:05, Mike  wrote:

> Pawlu -
>
> If you mean the W1 it's here.
> http://www.elecraft.com/software/elecraft_software_page.htm
>
> 73, Mike NF4L
>
> On 2/13/2011 7:58 AM, Pawlu wrote:
> > Hi,
> > Anyone knows where I can download the software for the T1 please
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
>
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1

[Mike]

Pawlu -

If you mean the W1 it's here. 
http://www.elecraft.com/software/elecraft_software_page.htm

73, Mike NF4L

On 2/13/2011 7:58 AM, Pawlu wrote:
> Hi,
> Anyone knows where I can download the software for the T1 please
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] [T1] T1 tuner auto-tune sensitivity?

[Don Wilhelm]

  Eric,

The specified minimum power required for tuning is 0.5 watts.

Since you seem to be willing to experiment a bit, and given the fact 
that the combination of R3 and R5 look similar the the Forward power 
potentiometer in other Elecraft wattmeters, I would try increasing R5 to 
150 k and reducing R3 to 10 k.

BIG CAUTION:  I have no idea whether this will actually do what you want 
(there may be other factors involved), but I would rate it as "worth a 
first pass try".  Be sure you have 120 k and 33 k resistors on hand so 
you can restore the original values if it proves to be unsuccessful.

The other alternative is to use an amplifier between the Rockmite and 
the T1 for tuning and then switch it out for QRPp operation with the 
barefoot Rockmite.  I have run across several 2 to 5 watt amplifier 
designs that should work quite well for this purpose (but I forget the 
specifics right now) - check EMRFD as one resource for those amplifiers.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2010 9:32 PM, eric norris wrote:
> Dear Gang:
>
> Has anyone used a T1 with a RockMite?  My T1 will not detect and autotune with
> either of two RockMites I have tried it with.  Are there any mods that would
> increase the T1 autotune sensitivity?  The RockMites put out about .5 watts, 
> so
> I am thinking I only need to increase the sensitivity by .1 watt or so.  I'd
> gladly give up some high-power capability since I never use the T1 above 5 or 
> 10
> watts.   
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Eric WD6DBM
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply

[Bill K9YEQ]

George,

I would be most interested in what you come up with?  IF you have the time
please keep me informed.

Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of GeorgeP
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply


I am in the process of slowly reconfiguring my station for the inevitable
future move to a condo or antenna restricted area where I will have to play
the "Stealth" antenna game.  My station comprises of a Yaesu FT-817ND, W1
PWR/SWR Indicator, 3ft diameter remotely tuned home built 20m-10m Magnetic
Loop antenna, and a 80/40 meter Trapped Dipole using the T1 Tuner for fine
tuning.  I figure I can always wrap plastic flowers around the Mag Loop and
pass it off as a Christmas Wreath, but I will still want some sort of
outdoor wire using the T1 tuner for the lower bands.

I want to use the T1 at the antenna end vs the radio end as I am now.  I
know that the T1 has the ability to be remotely tuned via the port on the
side, but I want to kick it up a notch.  I'm running DC up the coax to
control the capacitor motor in my Mag Loop using the standard
inductor/capacitor configuration, and I want to follow the same plan for the
T1.  The idea is to use a push button to supply the 9v (I'll probably use a
higher voltage and reduce it at the tuner to compensate for line loss) via
the coax to the T1 (vs using the internal battery) and a LM556 Dual Timer at
the T1.  Key Up, Push and hold the button, the T1 turns on and boots up and
at the same time the LM556 starts timing.  After a preset amount of time (1
second?) the LM556 would pull the Tune line low via a Optical Isolator for
say 1 second starting the Tune function.  Watch the SWR on the FT-817 or the
W1 and when it stabilizes low, release the button and unkey.

Granted, I could leave the internal battery installed and just use the 9v to
pull the Optical Isolator low but by adding the LM556 I can eliminate the
battery as well.

I know the power via coax will work, and the LM556 (or even a PIC) will
work, so I guess I'm asking if there is a problem with turning On/Off the
power to the T1 and is 1 second enough time to stabilize prior to initiating
Tune?

tnx

de George
WD0AKZ
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Remote-Tuning-and-Power-Supply-tp574
4646p5744646.html
Sent from the [MM] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1: can I switch into TUNE with the K2's tune button?

[Don Wilhelm]

Werner,

I do not know of any way to accomplish what you desire. There is no way 
to have a depression of the TUNE button on the K3 to initiate any 
external action - it simply outputs RF at the requested power level 
(unless the KAT2 or KAT100 is installed, then the action changes).

To do as you have asked, one would need to modify the K2 to detect a 
hold of the TUNE button and make a contact closure external to the K2.  
I guess one could wire an extra set of leads to the switch itself and 
sort out the TAP/Hold situation external to the K2, but that would 
involve adding a microprocessor dedicated to that task as well as 
running the switch contact wires to the outside of the K2.  Not a 
trivial modification.

It would be easier to mount a KAT2 external to the K2 (create your own 
enclosure), and the operation would be 'automatic' since the KAT2 does 
contain the microprocessor that will do the tuning at reduced power 
levels.  A KAT2 could be connected to the KIO2 AUX I/O connector in much 
the same manner as the KAT100 connects (or use the KAT100 which comes 
with its own enclosure).

73,
Don W3FPR

Dr. Werner Furlan wrote:
> I have built the T1, and find it an amazing instrument. I would like to 
> use it also with the K2, which in my case has no QRP tuner built in, 
> because there is no room left, I decided to build the SCS Ptc-2 into the 
> rig instead of the battery and tuner. 
> I would like to switch the T1 into tune mode without using the Tune button 
> of the T1, but instead use the Tune button of the K2. 
> Is this possible somehow? I think there is the possiblity to switch the T1 
> to Tune with the remote jack. But how do I get the appropriate signal out 
> of the K2?
>
> TIA , 
>
> 73! de Werner OE9FWV
>
>   
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 01/11/10 
> 02:35:00
>
>   
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 tuner balanced in/out

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The BL2 *is* a 1:1 balun. The only difference between a 1:1 and a 4:1 is the
way the windings are connected. The BL2 has a switch to make the connections
for either transformation, 1:1 or 4:1. Your choice.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Thanks but no thanks. Only balun I would consider would be at the 
input to the rf section and would be a 1-1 balun.

Gil

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 tuner balanced in/out

[Gil Cross]

Thanks but no thanks. Only balun I would consider would be at the 
input to the rf section and would be a 1-1 balun.

Gil



- Original Message - 
From: "Doug Phillips" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:12 PM
Subject: T1 tuner balanced in/out


> Gil try the BL2 kit from Elecraft, that is what I use with my T1 for 
> ladder line fed antennas.
>
> 73, Doug W7RDP
>
> 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Re: [Elecraft] T1 Question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

John, the 5-band Traffie Hex I've seen is a 10/12/15/17/20 meter antenna.
I'd not expect it to provide any directivity or be particularly efficient at
40 meters. 

The T1 *might* provide a match to the feed line, but the feed line will
typically show a very high SWR and so be very lossy. Under those conditions
if it doesn't provide a match you can change the length of the feed line and
find a length  that T1 can handle, since the feed line acts as a impedance
transformer too, but the losses will remain.

I'm not sure what you have the Hex mounted on, but in cases like that best
results are often obtained by loading your mast as an independent vertical
antenna on the lower band. You'll likely need some radials on the ground for
good operation, but if the mast is at least 25 or 30 feet high (and less
than 90 feet), it will make a good low-angle radiator for 40 meters. 

If the mast is metal and grounded, you can usually shunt-feed it. There are
many design ideas in the various antenna manuals since this is a common
solution with people loading towers for 80 or 160 meter operation. You can
simply scale down those ideas to provide a good match to coax on 40 meters. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
Hi Folks,
Wanting to try my 5 Band Traffie Hex on 40 Meters.  
Will the T1 be able to do the matching for this well enough to be a good
investment and a workable solution to having a beam on 40 Mtrs?
Tnx,  72,
John
N0LT


Take care and enjoy.



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

RE: [Elecraft] T1 How to mount it?

[Dale Putnam]

I've mounted my T-1 with the foam tape, but with care to not cover the battery 
compartment. Yes, the tape would need to come up.. or off, to change the 
batteries, although that doesn't have to happen often, and the tape will come 
up with a bit of good luck, clean enough to reuse, especially when used in 
small patches. 
Good luck,--... ...--Dale - WC7S in Wy
_
Store, manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive.
http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_102008___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
 http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 to Window Line connection?

[Sandy]

Go for the BNC to double banana jack adapter.  Be careful to get a genuine 
Pomona one as a lot of the generic ones are Chinese and crap!


73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] T1 to Window Line connection?


I've currently got my T1 connected by a BL-2 to my window line. I've got it 
set for 1:1. I don't think its needed at all for this installation other 
than providing a convenient connection. FWIW, the input to the T1 has a 
choke "balun" on it to keep RF off the outside of the coax feed.


I'm going to get a BNC to binding post connector to replace the connection 
to the windowline.


Are there any alternatives to doing this or should I just go for it?

tnx
jim ab3cv

___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1185 - Release Date: 12/15/2007 
12:00 PM



___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft


Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 connections

[Don Wilhelm]

Jonathan,

I don't really know why the T1 would be off topic here, but ...
The answer to your question has two parts:
1) in theory, a half wave wire is an antenna complete in itself and does 
not need anything else - and that is true whether it is fed at the end 
or at the center or anywhere in between.
2) in practice, the tuner circuit should have some reference to tune 
against, and if you do not provide that reference it will use something 
(the ground in the T1, the coax shield, your body, etc).  It is usually 
better to control what that 'something' is by using a counterpoise wire 
- just let it lay on the ground.
2a) the T1 tuner is of the L network type which may not work well into 
very high impedances.  An end fed half wave presents a feed impedance of 
about 4000 ohms.  A parallel tuned circuit with the unbalanced input 
created by either a link or a tap on the coil works best with these high 
impedances.


Overall result:
You may be better off using something different than the half wave.  Try 
the W3EDP lengths for starters, an 85 foot radiator wire and a 17 foot 
counterpoise if the antenna is for 80 meters and up, or half those 
lengths for 40 and up.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jonathan wrote:

The other thing OT: I have the T1. When operating in the field, as I do with 
the ATS3B--say I'm running a half-wave inverted L antenna with one radial. In 
that case I use a BNC to two-pole adapter running the radial off the black 
side, and the main element off the red side. Would I benefit from some sort of 
ground attached to the ground post? Even a large metallic object? Or would this 
not have any effect?
Just wondering the general concept here.
Jonathan KC7FYS

  

___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft


Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

RE: [Elecraft] T1 at 35W?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I just got a T1 a few days ago.  Tried it at 35 watts (an HF Packer 
amplifier) and so far no ill results.  This is driving the amp. with a K1 at

about 2 watts on CW only.  The T1 has far greater range than the KAT1 
internal coupler.

73,

Sandy W5TVW



The reason the bridge circuit in there has a double-stacked toroid on one
side was that Tom, N0SS, tried something like 40 watts into his original
beta-test unit and it worked except for that core getting hot enough to
blister a finger. Two cores help avoid saturation at all power levels. 

So, if you're pushing the power limit, checking the temperature to the
bridge circuit toroids (near the connectors - the ones with a single turn
wire primary) will tell you if the smoke is about to escape . Obviously
the danger is in overheating and fracturing a core. 

That can happen among the other cores too, depending upon the impedance the
antenna presents. If it's showing a low impedance (current loop), enough
current may flow to saturate a core in the L-network. The symptom of that
happening is that the tuner will find a nice match at low power then, as the
power is increased, the SWR jumps up high when the current increases enough
to saturate the core (or the core heats enough to reach its curie
temperature). That causes the inductance of that coil to change, throwing
the system out of tune.

Of course, over time, one might also experience damaged relay contacts from
excessive current when feeding low impedances or arcing due to high RF
voltages when feeding high impedances. Since that all depends upon the
impedance the antenna presents and the actual RF power, individual
experiences will vary a great deal.

As usual, Elecraft is pretty conservative in their ratings, but that's done
for a reason. At 20 watts, any impedance the T1 will match won't do any
damage to the tuner no matter how long it's used.  

Ron AC7AC 


___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
 http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

Re: [Elecraft] T1 at 35W?

[Sandy]

I just got a T1 a few days ago.  Tried it at 35 watts (an HF Packer 
amplifier) and so far no ill results.  This is driving the amp. with a K1 at 
about 2 watts on CW only.  The T1 has far greater range than the KAT1 
internal coupler.


73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: "Kurt Loken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:24 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] T1 at 35W?



Hello All,

So I am getting a little 35W amp for the Softrock 6.2 I have on order.

Will I have problems if I use my 20W T1 at 35W?  I plan to do CW, SSB, and 
digitial modes.


Anyone else tempting the fates on the T1?

Thanks,

Kurt - ae6uj




Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all 
the tools to get online.

http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting

___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com



--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/834 - Release Date: 6/5/2007 
2:38 PM





___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft


Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com