[Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2013-02-18 Thread Roland Jollivet
On 30 October 2012 06:26, Sebastian Kuzminsky s...@highlab.com wrote:

 Bone headed error...  I am doing a small production run, using three
 different drills, each mounted in its own tool holder.  I had carefully
 measured the length of each tool and recorded them all in the tool
 table.  I had run about 10 parts, everything was going great, just a few
 left to go.

 Then I got distracted and loaded the wrong tool...  Unlucky for me, the
 tool I loaded was much longer than the tool the machine asked for, and
 the machine happily drove a drill chuck with a #39 drill right into the
 work.

 The drill shattered and disappeared in a spray of shrapnel (no one was
 hit).  The jaws of the drill chuck drilled about 0.100 inches down into
 the work piece (soft aluminum, fortunately).  The Z servo finally
 signaled a following error and e-stopped the machine.  The work and the
 fixture plate absorbed all the damage, the table of the machine is still
 unmarked.  So it could have been worse.

 But the chuck is completely ruined.  It used to be a pretty nice keyless
 chuck, 1/32 to 1/2 gripping range, J6 taper.  Now it's garbage: the
 body (what I would normally turn to tighten and loosen the jaws) turns
 very reluctantly, and the jaws don't move at all when i turn it...

 I got it off the J6 tool holder, and the J6 taper on the tool holder has
 ~0.001 inches of runout now (measured with a DTI on the taper, while
 mounted in the spindle and turning slowly).  I don't know what the
 runout was before the crash, and I don't know what's acceptable.  Does
 this seem reasonable, or should I scrap the tool holder too and look for
 another?  My spindle has a QC-30 taper, which is somewhat unusual - tool
 holders like this can be hard to come by.

 In either case I need a new drill chuck.

 The wrecked chuck is of the keyless variety, and while that's convenient
 I'm considering replacing it with a keyed chuck because they tend to be
 shorter, and my quill is a bit limited in Z travel. Why do CNC machines
 usually have keyless chucks?

 What do you all recommend for a good value on a drill chuck, about 1/32
 to 1/2, J6 taper?

 Keyed or keyless?

 Help me emc-users, you're my only hope!

 --
 Sebastian Kuzminsky



And old thread, but is your spindle like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIDGEPORT-CNC-EZ-TRAK-ERICKSON-QC30-30-TAPER-SPINDLE-/150283516254

If so, the taper should be the same as most '30' tapers, ie 7/24. If it is
you should be able to adapt an ISO30 or BT30.

Regards
Roland
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-11-02 Thread andy pugh
On 31 October 2012 14:02, Stuart Stevenson stus...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have tried hydraulic chucks end mill holders.

How do they work? I had imgined that they were based on the SKF
Oil-injection idea
( http://www.mapro.skf.com/products/oil_oim.htm ) but looking around
the web it appears that they may simply have a cavity round the tool
hole with a fairly thin wall and then a screw which pushes hydraulic
fluid into the cavity.

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Steve Blackmore
On Tue, 30 Oct 2012 13:35:35 -0400, you wrote:

be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
a very good solution

Depends on the collet - ER series close parallel and are perfectly good
for milling with. 

Morse and R8 are very poor at holding anything but the exact size they
are made for.

Steve Blackmore
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread John Thornton
Yes, I emailed Frank at Maritool and he sent me the torque specs for the 
ER collets.

ER 11   20 ft-lbs
ER 16   35 ft-lbs
ER 25   60 ft-lbs
ER 32   90 ft-lbs


John

On 10/30/2012 7:33 PM, Sam wrote:
 you just need to tighten them correctly.  Has anyone actually looked up the 
 torque tightening specs on collets?  I think you would be surprised  we 
 have collets into the 1.5 to 2 inch range.  I don't ever remember any pulling 
 out.

 John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:

 I use collets up to 3/4 with heavy cuts and huge fly cutters with no
 problem. Collets are for milling too.

 John

 On 10/30/2012 12:35 PM, jeremy youngs wrote:
 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
 a very good solution

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread andy pugh
On 31 October 2012 10:59, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yes, I emailed Frank at Maritool and he sent me the torque specs for the
 ER collets.

 ER 11   20 ft-lbs
 ER 16   35 ft-lbs
 ER 25   60 ft-lbs
 ER 32   90 ft-lbs

Which is all very well, but has anyone ever seen a torque-wrench
fitting that can operate a collet nut?

Even the (rarer) ones with a hex are tricky, I can find ring and open
spanner ends for spigot-style torque wrenches up to 46mm
http://www.norbar.com/46mmRingEnd_22mmspigot-RingEnds-TorqueWrenches-54-1-2-1839-product.aspx
But that is probably only big enough for an ER25.

I guess you could always make your own.

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread John Thornton
Frank said the collet wrench length for each size should provide the 
approximate torque needed. I tested the smaller ones I have  ER20 which 
use a hex nut and the wrench is close.

I guess if your machining at 10,000rpm with aggressive feed rates maybe 
collets are not the answer... I would assume you would use shrink fit 
tooling for something like that not end mill holders with set screws.

John

On 10/31/2012 6:18 AM, andy pugh wrote:
 On 31 October 2012 10:59, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yes, I emailed Frank at Maritool and he sent me the torque specs for the
 ER collets.

 ER 11   20 ft-lbs
 ER 16   35 ft-lbs
 ER 25   60 ft-lbs
 ER 32   90 ft-lbs
 Which is all very well, but has anyone ever seen a torque-wrench
 fitting that can operate a collet nut?

 Even the (rarer) ones with a hex are tricky, I can find ring and open
 spanner ends for spigot-style torque wrenches up to 46mm
 http://www.norbar.com/46mmRingEnd_22mmspigot-RingEnds-TorqueWrenches-54-1-2-1839-product.aspx
 But that is probably only big enough for an ER25.

 I guess you could always make your own.



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Bruce Layne

On 10/31/2012 07:18 AM, andy pugh wrote:

 ER 11   20 ft-lbs
 ER 16   35 ft-lbs
 ER 25   60 ft-lbs
 ER 32   90 ft-lbs
 Which is all very well, but has anyone ever seen a torque-wrench
 fitting that can operate a collet nut?

When I saw the ER collet holder torque list, I interpolated to about 45 
ft-lbs for ER-20, considered the lengths of my ER-20 wrenches, and 
determined as hard as you can without hurting yourself.

If you wanted to get fancy and make it goof proof, you could make a tool 
room bench fixture.  Drop in the hand tightened ER collet holder, pop a 
custom ER nut sized square drive adapter onto a click-style torque 
wrench, and get exact about it.

In my hobby and small business machining, I'm going for the sweet spot, 
where I spend a little (time and money) and get the most in return as 
possible.  For what I'm trying to accomplish, imported low cost 
quick-change ER collet holders seem to be where I want to be right now.  
I'm not running three shifts, and trying to hire low paid parts changing 
monkeys who need idiot-proofed systems.

Maybe someday, I'll have a vertical machining center with CAT-40 
tooling... but I doubt it.



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread andy pugh
On 31 October 2012 11:44, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:

 I guess if your machining at 10,000rpm with aggressive feed rates maybe
 collets are not the answer... I would assume you would use shrink fit
 tooling for something like tha

I thought that, and when I googled yesterday to find out if Shrink
fit really was called shrink fit I found this article:
http://www.moldmakingtechnology.com/articles/high-speed-collet-toolholder-or-shrink-fit-tooling
Which seems to prefer collets over shrink-fit.. (admittedly at higher
speeds, and presumably smaller sizes than being discussed)
Whereas http://www.techniksusa.com/metal/SF_casestudy.htm prefers
shrink-fit over collet.

I suspect that there might be just as many opinions in the collet v
Weldon debate. I don't really feel qualified to opinionate on the
matter myself.

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Ralph Stirling
There is one other way of holding end mills that has not
been mentioned, and that is a milling chuck.  They also
use collets, but only for specific shank sizes.  Of course,
these as well as shrink fit are rather moot for people
using R8 or Morse spindles, as they are only available
for CAT or BT spindles.  Here are a couple of links if
interested:

http://www.maritool.com/Tool-Holders-Cat-40-Milling-Chucks/c23_25_102/p620/CAT40-MILLING-CHUCK-ASC1.00-80/product_info.html
http://www.maritool.com/Collets-Milling-Chuck-Collets-SC25.4-collets-(1.00-inch)/c21_103_104/p639/SC25.4-.250-Milling-Chuck-Collet/product_info.html


-- Ralph


From: andy pugh [bodge...@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 5:31 AM
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

On 31 October 2012 11:44, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:

 I guess if your machining at 10,000rpm with aggressive feed rates maybe
 collets are not the answer... I would assume you would use shrink fit
 tooling for something like tha

I thought that, and when I googled yesterday to find out if Shrink
fit really was called shrink fit I found this article:
http://www.moldmakingtechnology.com/articles/high-speed-collet-toolholder-or-shrink-fit-tooling
Which seems to prefer collets over shrink-fit.. (admittedly at higher
speeds, and presumably smaller sizes than being discussed)
Whereas http://www.techniksusa.com/metal/SF_casestudy.htm prefers
shrink-fit over collet.

I suspect that there might be just as many opinions in the collet v
Weldon debate. I don't really feel qualified to opinionate on the
matter myself.

--
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http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Erik Christiansen
On 31.10.12 05:59, John Thornton wrote:
 Yes, I emailed Frank at Maritool and he sent me the torque specs for the 
 ER collets.
 
 ER 11   20 ft-lbs
 ER 16   35 ft-lbs
 ER 25   60 ft-lbs
 ER 32   90 ft-lbs

  ER40   130 ft-lbs  according to

  
http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2010/09/28/getting-the-best-performance-from-er-collet-chucks/

The wrench supplied with my ER40 collet chuck is 11 long. I'm not sure
I can comfortably put 140 lbs of force onto it using only one hand, so 
might not need a torque-wrench. Presumably the spanner length is 
proportional to chuck size, giving smaller chucks similar protection?

Following Andy's suggestion, it's not that hard to add a torsion bar, a
pointer, and then calibrate with a spring scale or the weight of 40.9
litres of water for 90 lbs at 12 radius, for ER32, for example.

Erik

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Stuart Stevenson
another way
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0SX52R-MvY

I have tried hydraulic chucks end mill holders. We have a few in the unused
tool holder pile. End mills pulled out of them during the cut. The finish
was not as good as a regular end mill holder.

I have not tried shrink fit.

I have not tried the tribos in the video. I almost tried it. The entry fee
is high. The tool changer station is expensive. I haven't looked at this
for a few years. None of the dealers would allow me to 'test' cut with a
few holders.


The best I have seen is as follows. This is not high revolution technology
but can be very high material removal rate.

End mill adapter with the set screw angled at 5 degrees. The 5 degrees is
angled to push the end mill deeper into the adapter.
The adapter has an adjustable stop to restrain the end mill from pushing
farther into the adapter.
The tool is then ground with end mill adapter and end mill assembled.
We don't do it this way. The two largest private shops in the Wichita area
used to do it this way until the owners sold the businesses. I don't know
how the shops do it now. They were purchased by large corporations and I
lost access to the shops.

YMMV

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread andy pugh
On 31 October 2012 14:02, Stuart Stevenson stus...@gmail.com wrote:

 another way
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0SX52R-MvY

 I have not tried the tribos in the video. I almost tried it.


It seems like you could make your own by over-tightening a three-jaw chuck
before boring the hole :-)

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread andy pugh
On 31 October 2012 14:01, Erik Christiansen dva...@internode.on.net wrote:

   ER40   130 ft-lbs  according to


 http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2010/09/28/getting-the-best-performance-from-er-collet-chucks/

 The wrench supplied with my ER40 collet chuck is 11 long. I'm not sure
 I can comfortably put 140 lbs of force onto it using only one hand, so
 might not need a torque-wrench.


That is the specified torque, not the maximum torque. I think the point is
that you can't get it tight enough with the supplied tool.

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Todd Zuercher
That's odd we are milling all the time at 18K RPM with 200-400ipm with half and 
3/4 collets without any problems. (We are cutting wood and MDF.) I have had a 
lot more problem with 1/4 collets and tools pulling out than with the bigger 
ones.  I have never had a 3/4 tool pull out, half inch in worn collets yes.  
We are using mostly ER-40 and SYOZ-25 colletted HSK63-F tool holders.  You do 
have to remember that a collet has to be in good condition to work propperly.  

- Original Message -
ok some valid points  yes an end mill holder is a hole with a set
screw in it. my night job is supervising 25 people and writing
programs. I use very high speed machining techniques . I promise that
if you spin an endmill in a collet half inch or larger at 10 k rpm and
feed it 2-300 in a min you will find the weakness of the collet and
that is it will pull out. I never said a collet was not for milling i
advised caution when doing so and to use them for smaller items. I
have enough experience in this matter to be certain this is good
advice fellas :)
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread jeremy youngs
mdf being the key word there is no long grain structure to pull the
tool with i would have to say aluminum or lead is the worst about
pulling but i doubt many are milling lead . also you cannot use high
speed toolpaths with lead as it will smear




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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Gene Heskett
On Wednesday 31 October 2012 11:28:22 andy pugh did opine:

 On 31 October 2012 10:59, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
  Yes, I emailed Frank at Maritool and he sent me the torque specs for
  the ER collets.
  
  ER 11   20 ft-lbs
  ER 16   35 ft-lbs
  ER 25   60 ft-lbs
  ER 32   90 ft-lbs
 
 Which is all very well, but has anyone ever seen a torque-wrench
 fitting that can operate a collet nut?
 
 Even the (rarer) ones with a hex are tricky, I can find ring and open
 spanner ends for spigot-style torque wrenches up to 46mm
 http://www.norbar.com/46mmRingEnd_22mmspigot-RingEnds-TorqueWrenches-54-
 1-2-1839-product.aspx But that is probably only big enough for an ER25.
 
 I guess you could always make your own.

Probably the only way.  Most double flatted nuts, at those torque specs, 
would need the open end adapter to be made thick enough to use every 
thousandth of the width of the flats for any life before the nut would be 
rounded over from the OE adapter wedging itself open.  A hex nut, and a box 
end adapter would be much more practical, but I've not seen those for sale 
ever, just the OE types.  I suppose somebody (typical ID10T) warming a 
chair would assume we could use a deep socket in that event.

If the double flats go all the way to the face of the nut, it shouldn't be 
that difficult to make a custom box end to fit it.
Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread dave
On Wed, 2012-10-31 at 11:18 +, andy pugh wrote:
 On 31 October 2012 10:59, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
  Yes, I emailed Frank at Maritool and he sent me the torque specs for the
  ER collets.
 
  ER 11   20 ft-lbs
  ER 16   35 ft-lbs
  ER 25   60 ft-lbs
  ER 32   90 ft-lbs
 
 Which is all very well, but has anyone ever seen a torque-wrench
 fitting that can operate a collet nut?
 
 Even the (rarer) ones with a hex are tricky, I can find ring and open
 spanner ends for spigot-style torque wrenches up to 46mm
 http://www.norbar.com/46mmRingEnd_22mmspigot-RingEnds-TorqueWrenches-54-1-2-1839-product.aspx
 But that is probably only big enough for an ER25.
 
 I guess you could always make your own.
 

crows foot?

Dave



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread sam sokolik
we just made our own...

http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/wrench.JPG

http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/wrenchscale.JPG

sam



On 10/31/2012 10:47 AM, dave wrote:
 On Wed, 2012-10-31 at 11:18 +, andy pugh wrote:
 On 31 October 2012 10:59, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yes, I emailed Frank at Maritool and he sent me the torque specs for the
 ER collets.

 ER 11   20 ft-lbs
 ER 16   35 ft-lbs
 ER 25   60 ft-lbs
 ER 32   90 ft-lbs
 Which is all very well, but has anyone ever seen a torque-wrench
 fitting that can operate a collet nut?

 Even the (rarer) ones with a hex are tricky, I can find ring and open
 spanner ends for spigot-style torque wrenches up to 46mm
 http://www.norbar.com/46mmRingEnd_22mmspigot-RingEnds-TorqueWrenches-54-1-2-1839-product.aspx
 But that is probably only big enough for an ER25.

 I guess you could always make your own.

 crows foot?

 Dave



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread andy pugh
On 31 October 2012 16:35, sam sokolik sa...@empirescreen.com wrote:

http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/wrenchscale.JPG


Add strain gauges and an Arduino with LCD display in the middle and you can
read out torque directly...

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Wed, 2012-10-31 at 16:45 +, andy pugh wrote:
 On 31 October 2012 16:35, sam sokolik sa...@empirescreen.com wrote:
 
 http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/wrenchscale.JPG
 
 
 Add strain gauges and an Arduino with LCD display in the middle and
 you can
 read out torque directly...
 

Howsbout:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dgardenfield-keywords=spring+scale
 


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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread MC Cason
On 10/31/2012 11:56 AM, Kirk Wallace wrote:
 On Wed, 2012-10-31 at 16:45 +, andy pugh wrote:
 On 31 October 2012 16:35, sam sokolik sa...@empirescreen.com wrote:

 http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/wrenchscale.JPG


 Add strain gauges and an Arduino with LCD display in the middle and
 you can
 read out torque directly...

 Howsbout:
 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dgardenfield-keywords=spring+scale



   Why all the fancy ways to torque a nut?  Simply make a spanner wrench 
with a 1/2 square hole on the end of the handle, and use a ordinary 
torque wrench.

   The only difficulty, is calculating the torque multiplication factor:
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/TorqueExtension.htm

   Years ago, I had a special spanner, for rebuilding a Mercruiser 
outdrive, that came with a sheet of paper to calculate it's torque 
multiplication.  I stamped the formula into the end of the tool, so I 
wouldn't loose it.

   I no longer have the tool, but the principle is the same.  The one I 
had looked similar this:
http://www.iboats.com/mall/image/vendor/16/bigger/18-9803_big.jpg

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Stuart Stevenson
On Wed, Oct 31, 2012 at 12:48 PM, MC Cason farmerboy1...@yahoo.com wrote:

 On 10/31/2012 11:56 AM, Kirk Wallace wrote:   Why all the fancy ways to
 torque a nut?

HEH - because we can :)

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-31 Thread Steve Blackmore
On Wed, 31 Oct 2012 14:42:38 +, you wrote:

On 31 October 2012 14:01, Erik Christiansen dva...@internode.on.net wrote:

   ER40   130 ft-lbs  according to


 http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2010/09/28/getting-the-best-performance-from-er-collet-chucks/

 The wrench supplied with my ER40 collet chuck is 11 long. I'm not sure
 I can comfortably put 140 lbs of force onto it using only one hand, so
 might not need a torque-wrench.


That is the specified torque, not the maximum torque. I think the point is
that you can't get it tight enough with the supplied tool.

Not sure about an 11 inch long spanner for ER40 - seems small. But I can
easily tighten an ER32 on a 20mm (.787inch) end mill in and it wont come
loose using the supplied spanner, which is 12 inches long. Specified is
100ft/lbs - I can pull 100lbs, but I'm sure I'm not tightening that much
- maybe 80.

The chucks I'm used to have bearings in also.

Steve Blackmore
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread John Thornton
I don't use a drill chuck on any of my mills, I've been told ER collets 
are much better and that is what I use. A little googling and it looks 
like the NMBT30 can be modified to fit the QC30 with the only difference 
between the 30's is the flange and drive lugs.

http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html

On my BP with Kwik Switch tooling and the tool changer is subject to 
being distracted from time to time I have a little rack with numbers and 
I pull from the rack if there is more than 1 tool change.

John

On 10/29/2012 11:26 PM, Sebastian Kuzminsky wrote:
 Bone headed error...  I am doing a small production run, using three
 different drills, each mounted in its own tool holder.  I had carefully
 measured the length of each tool and recorded them all in the tool
 table.  I had run about 10 parts, everything was going great, just a few
 left to go.

 Then I got distracted and loaded the wrong tool...  Unlucky for me, the
 tool I loaded was much longer than the tool the machine asked for, and
 the machine happily drove a drill chuck with a #39 drill right into the
 work.

 The drill shattered and disappeared in a spray of shrapnel (no one was
 hit).  The jaws of the drill chuck drilled about 0.100 inches down into
 the work piece (soft aluminum, fortunately).  The Z servo finally
 signaled a following error and e-stopped the machine.  The work and the
 fixture plate absorbed all the damage, the table of the machine is still
 unmarked.  So it could have been worse.

 But the chuck is completely ruined.  It used to be a pretty nice keyless
 chuck, 1/32 to 1/2 gripping range, J6 taper.  Now it's garbage: the
 body (what I would normally turn to tighten and loosen the jaws) turns
 very reluctantly, and the jaws don't move at all when i turn it...

 I got it off the J6 tool holder, and the J6 taper on the tool holder has
 ~0.001 inches of runout now (measured with a DTI on the taper, while
 mounted in the spindle and turning slowly).  I don't know what the
 runout was before the crash, and I don't know what's acceptable.  Does
 this seem reasonable, or should I scrap the tool holder too and look for
 another?  My spindle has a QC-30 taper, which is somewhat unusual - tool
 holders like this can be hard to come by.

 In either case I need a new drill chuck.

 The wrecked chuck is of the keyless variety, and while that's convenient
 I'm considering replacing it with a keyed chuck because they tend to be
 shorter, and my quill is a bit limited in Z travel. Why do CNC machines
 usually have keyless chucks?

 What do you all recommend for a good value on a drill chuck, about 1/32
 to 1/2, J6 taper?

 Keyed or keyless?

 Help me emc-users, you're my only hope!



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread MC Cason
On 10/29/2012 11:26 PM, Sebastian Kuzminsky wrote:
 Bone headed error...  I am doing a small production run, using three
 different drills, each mounted in its own tool holder.  I had carefully
 measured the length of each tool and recorded them all in the tool
 table.  I had run about 10 parts, everything was going great, just a few
 left to go.

 Then I got distracted and loaded the wrong tool...  Unlucky for me, the
 tool I loaded was much longer than the tool the machine asked for, and
 the machine happily drove a drill chuck with a #39 drill right into the
 work.

 The drill shattered and disappeared in a spray of shrapnel (no one was
 hit).  The jaws of the drill chuck drilled about 0.100 inches down into
 the work piece (soft aluminum, fortunately).  The Z servo finally
 signaled a following error and e-stopped the machine.  The work and the
 fixture plate absorbed all the damage, the table of the machine is still
 unmarked.  So it could have been worse.

 But the chuck is completely ruined.  It used to be a pretty nice keyless
 chuck, 1/32 to 1/2 gripping range, J6 taper.  Now it's garbage: the
 body (what I would normally turn to tighten and loosen the jaws) turns
 very reluctantly, and the jaws don't move at all when i turn it...

 I got it off the J6 tool holder, and the J6 taper on the tool holder has
 ~0.001 inches of runout now (measured with a DTI on the taper, while
 mounted in the spindle and turning slowly).  I don't know what the
 runout was before the crash, and I don't know what's acceptable.  Does
 this seem reasonable, or should I scrap the tool holder too and look for
 another?  My spindle has a QC-30 taper, which is somewhat unusual - tool
 holders like this can be hard to come by.

 In either case I need a new drill chuck.

 The wrecked chuck is of the keyless variety, and while that's convenient
 I'm considering replacing it with a keyed chuck because they tend to be
 shorter, and my quill is a bit limited in Z travel. Why do CNC machines
 usually have keyless chucks?

 What do you all recommend for a good value on a drill chuck, about 1/32
 to 1/2, J6 taper?

 Keyed or keyless?

 Help me emc-users, you're my only hope!

   The runout is pretty small, and you could be reading the runout of 
the bearing in the spindle, unless you know for sure that they are good.

   However, don't toss that keyless chuck just yet,  if it's a Jacobs 
chuck, here's some rebuilding instructions:
http://www.jacobschuck.com/pdf/Precision-Chuck-Repair-Instruction.pdf

   Other mfg's chucks are similar.  I've replaced the jaws on a few 
Jacobs #36 keyed chucks, with very successful results, and it was 
cheaper than buying a new chuck.

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Erik Christiansen
On 30.10.12 06:15, John Thornton wrote:
 I don't use a drill chuck on any of my mills, I've been told ER collets 
 are much better and that is what I use.

Can't disagree a lot, for milling, anyway. IIRC, it was in a Tormach
document that I read a note similar to this:

Drill Chucks:
   Using a drill chuck to hold a tool used for side cutting is dangerous, though
   educational and often expensive. A Jacobs taper is _not_ designed for lateral
   loads, so vibration and side loads generally shake the drill chuck off its
   mount. As the spinning mass dissipates its kinetic energy, the flailing
   cutting edges shred any flesh or other vulnerable material in its path. Drill
   chucks are only to be used with axial forces, i.e. drilling.

It's now one of my MOTD entries, so once in a while my wetware RAM is
refreshed.

I'd hate to buy a collet for every drill size I might use.

Erik

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread John Thornton
Another reason is collet holders are much shorter than a drill chuck and 
on Z challenged machines like my BP switching between an end mill holder 
an a drill chuck is not always a practical thing... but at $200 for a 
set of collets it will be out of the range of many home shop machinists. 
I do have a jacobs chuck for my BP but don't use it.

John

On 10/30/2012 7:31 AM, Erik Christiansen wrote:
 On 30.10.12 06:15, John Thornton wrote:
 I don't use a drill chuck on any of my mills, I've been told ER collets
 are much better and that is what I use.
 Can't disagree a lot, for milling, anyway. IIRC, it was in a Tormach
 document that I read a note similar to this:

 Drill Chucks:
 Using a drill chuck to hold a tool used for side cutting is dangerous, 
 though
 educational and often expensive. A Jacobs taper is _not_ designed for 
 lateral
 loads, so vibration and side loads generally shake the drill chuck off its
 mount. As the spinning mass dissipates its kinetic energy, the flailing
 cutting edges shred any flesh or other vulnerable material in its path. 
 Drill
 chucks are only to be used with axial forces, i.e. drilling.

 It's now one of my MOTD entries, so once in a while my wetware RAM is
 refreshed.

 I'd hate to buy a collet for every drill size I might use.

 Erik



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread andy pugh
On 30 October 2012 12:31, Erik Christiansen dva...@internode.on.net wrote:

 I'd hate to buy a collet for every drill size I might use.

A metric set of ER collets fits every possible size in the range. I
believe there are a couple of gaps in the Imperial range.
I think that ER stands for something like extended range

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread andy pugh
On 30 October 2012 12:42, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
  at $200 for a set of collets it will be out of the range of many home shop 
 machinists.

You can pay a lot less that that.
http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-18/FULL-ER32-COLLET-SET/Detail
I am sure that they are at least adequate for drill holding.

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Erik Christiansen
On 30.10.12 07:42, John Thornton wrote:
 Another reason is collet holders are much shorter than a drill chuck and 
 on Z challenged machines like my BP switching between an end mill holder 
 an a drill chuck is not always a practical thing... but at $200 for a 
 set of collets it will be out of the range of many home shop machinists. 
 I do have a jacobs chuck for my BP but don't use it.

Yes, I bought only the abbreviated collet set, covering only the sizes
of a boxed set of milling cutters from the same vendor. The full set was
just as pricey here as it is there.

I have quite a lot of Z, but can always buy individual collets when
needed - that keyless drill chuck is very long.

Erik

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Gene Heskett
On Tuesday 30 October 2012 09:50:06 John Thornton did opine:

 Another reason is collet holders are much shorter than a drill chuck and
 on Z challenged machines like my BP switching between an end mill holder
 an a drill chuck is not always a practical thing... but at $200 for a
 set of collets it will be out of the range of many home shop machinists.
 I do have a jacobs chuck for my BP but don't use it.
 
 John
 
I have similar problems with my little toy mill.  The average, I can buy it 
at Lowes, replacement chuck cannot reliably mount or hold the drills I use 
which can go as small as #72's.  If I ever seriously damage the chinese 
Horse brand chuck that came with the mill, I'll be out of business for 
drills under 1/16.  And its runout leaves a lot to be desired  getting 
worse.  I have to creep up on starting the hole and give it time to self-
center, if it will, depends on the work material. copper plated pcb's are 
usually ok, TSC's grade of steel rod for a BP nipple gets very very pickity 
 needs wholesale qty's of the chosen bit size because that dulls them 
rapidly.  And I've not found anyone who will sell me carbide #68's in ten 
packs w/o a 3 digit price yet. :(

For this sort of work, I seriously need an old 1/4 chuck from a 50 yo 
electric hand drill, but it still drills holes  I hate to tear up 
something that actually still works after all this time. :)

 On 10/30/2012 7:31 AM, Erik Christiansen wrote:
  On 30.10.12 06:15, John Thornton wrote:
  I don't use a drill chuck on any of my mills, I've been told ER
  collets are much better and that is what I use.
  
  Can't disagree a lot, for milling, anyway. IIRC, it was in a Tormach
  document that I read a note similar to this:
  
  Drill Chucks:
  Using a drill chuck to hold a tool used for side cutting is
  dangerous, though educational and often expensive. A Jacobs taper
  is _not_ designed for lateral loads, so vibration and side loads
  generally shake the drill chuck off its mount. As the spinning
  mass dissipates its kinetic energy, the flailing cutting edges
  shred any flesh or other vulnerable material in its path. Drill
  chucks are only to be used with axial forces, i.e. drilling.
  
  It's now one of my MOTD entries, so once in a while my wetware RAM is
  refreshed.
  
  I'd hate to buy a collet for every drill size I might use.

Amen on that!  Not to mention that for my #2 morse spindle, collets under 
1/8 suddenly are made from unobtainium.
 
  Erik
 
 
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Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Gene Heskett
On Tuesday 30 October 2012 10:15:13 andy pugh did opine:

 On 30 October 2012 12:42, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
   at $200 for a set of collets it will be out of the range of many home
   shop machinists.
 
 You can pay a lot less that that.
 http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-18/FULL-ER32-COLLET-SET/Detail
 I am sure that they are at least adequate for drill holding.

I'm sure they are, and that is a good price, but they don't go small enough 
at a 2mm minimum.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Ed Nisley
On 10/30/2012 10:12 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 anyone who will sell me carbide #68's in ten packs w/o a 3 digit price yet

eBay is my parts  tool locker:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10pcs-68-Wire-Size-Solid-Carbide-PCB-Print-Circuit-Board-Drill-Bits-/120995129465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item1c2bdf2879

OK, OK, it has a *four* digit price, but the decimal point is in the 
right place for me... [grin]

I got good resharp bits from Drill Bit City, but it seems they're going 
out of business. Their broken website offers a few odd drill sets and a 
drill resharpening machine for 13 large:

https://www.drillbitcity.com/Default.asp

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread andy pugh
On 30 October 2012 14:17, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 I'm sure they are, and that is a good price, but they don't go small enough
 at a 2mm minimum.

Well, you wouldn't use ER32 for 2mm.
Perhaps ER11? Cheaper, too:
http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-13/FULL-ER11-COLLET-SET/Detail

(By the way, I have used CTC tools a few times and have no complaints)

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread John Thornton
ER8 collets go down to 0.039 but that only makes it down to #61 
drill... darn it. I do have one of those pin vise things that mount in a 
collet and will hold a #80 bit but it is a cheap one. Are you drilling 
by hand with the #72 bit?

John


On 10/30/2012 9:12 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Tuesday 30 October 2012 09:50:06 John Thornton did opine:

 Another reason is collet holders are much shorter than a drill chuck and
 on Z challenged machines like my BP switching between an end mill holder
 an a drill chuck is not always a practical thing... but at $200 for a
 set of collets it will be out of the range of many home shop machinists.
 I do have a jacobs chuck for my BP but don't use it.

 John

 I have similar problems with my little toy mill.  The average, I can buy it
 at Lowes, replacement chuck cannot reliably mount or hold the drills I use
 which can go as small as #72's.  If I ever seriously damage the chinese
 Horse brand chuck that came with the mill, I'll be out of business for
 drills under 1/16.  And its runout leaves a lot to be desired  getting
 worse.  I have to creep up on starting the hole and give it time to self-
 center, if it will, depends on the work material. copper plated pcb's are
 usually ok, TSC's grade of steel rod for a BP nipple gets very very pickity
  needs wholesale qty's of the chosen bit size because that dulls them
 rapidly.  And I've not found anyone who will sell me carbide #68's in ten
 packs w/o a 3 digit price yet. :(

 For this sort of work, I seriously need an old 1/4 chuck from a 50 yo
 electric hand drill, but it still drills holes  I hate to tear up
 something that actually still works after all this time. :)

 On 10/30/2012 7:31 AM, Erik Christiansen wrote:
 On 30.10.12 06:15, John Thornton wrote:
 I don't use a drill chuck on any of my mills, I've been told ER
 collets are much better and that is what I use.
 Can't disagree a lot, for milling, anyway. IIRC, it was in a Tormach
 document that I read a note similar to this:

 Drill Chucks:
  Using a drill chuck to hold a tool used for side cutting is
  dangerous, though educational and often expensive. A Jacobs taper
  is _not_ designed for lateral loads, so vibration and side loads
  generally shake the drill chuck off its mount. As the spinning
  mass dissipates its kinetic energy, the flailing cutting edges
  shred any flesh or other vulnerable material in its path. Drill
  chucks are only to be used with axial forces, i.e. drilling.

 It's now one of my MOTD entries, so once in a while my wetware RAM is
 refreshed.

 I'd hate to buy a collet for every drill size I might use.
 Amen on that!  Not to mention that for my #2 morse spindle, collets under
 1/8 suddenly are made from unobtainium.
   
 Erik
 
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Gene Heskett
On Tuesday 30 October 2012 10:51:44 Ed Nisley did opine:

 On 10/30/2012 10:12 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  anyone who will sell me carbide #68's in ten packs w/o a 3 digit price
  yet
 
 eBay is my parts  tool locker:
 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10pcs-68-Wire-Size-Solid-Carbide-PCB-Print-C
 ircuit-Board-Drill-Bits-/120995129465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item1c2
 bdf2879
 
 OK, OK, it has a *four* digit price, but the decimal point is in the
 right place for me... [grin]
 
Great, Ed.  And 1/8 shanks to boot solves that problem nicely.  I'll get a 
5 pack of those at that price  hope they are sharp.  Thanks.

 I got good resharp bits from Drill Bit City, but it seems they're going
 out of business. Their broken website offers a few odd drill sets and a
 drill resharpening machine for 13 large:
 
 https://www.drillbitcity.com/Default.asp

I saw hints of that the last time I hit there. :(

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Gene Heskett
On Tuesday 30 October 2012 10:55:53 andy pugh did opine:

 On 30 October 2012 14:17, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  I'm sure they are, and that is a good price, but they don't go small
  enough at a 2mm minimum.
 
 Well, you wouldn't use ER32 for 2mm.
 Perhaps ER11? Cheaper, too:
 http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-13/FULL-ER11-COLLET-SET/Detail
 
 (By the way, I have used CTC tools a few times and have no complaints)

That looks better Andy, thanks for the leg work.  Can I also buy a #2 morse 
to ER11 adapter from them?  I am not exactly z challenged with my z drive

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread andy pugh
On 30 October 2012 14:52, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:
 ER8 collets go down to 0.039 but that only makes it down to #61
 drill... darn it.

Don't forget the 0.5mm (0.02) adjustment range.
The CTC metric ER11spec says they can grip down to 3/128

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread andy pugh
On 30 October 2012 14:58, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

  Can I also buy a #2 morse
 to ER11 adapter from them?  I am not exactly z challenged with my z drive

http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-21/ER11-MT2-MK2-COLLET/Detail

Or possibly a straight-shank one in a chuck:
http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-673/ER11-SHANK-10MM-100MM/Detail
(maybe more scope to percussively adjust that to run true.)

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Gene Heskett
On Tuesday 30 October 2012 10:59:26 John Thornton did opine:

 ER8 collets go down to 0.039 but that only makes it down to #61
 drill... darn it. I do have one of those pin vise things that mount in a
 collet and will hold a #80 bit but it is a cheap one. Are you drilling
 by hand with the #72 bit?
 
 John
 
No, no way I can hand hold that precisely John.  Even running slow short 
peck cycles these drills don't last at all well in cold rolled steel.  And 
I may have to do SS, steel seems to be pretty easily stained  corroded by 
a #209 primer  black substitutes.  And actually for that, the smallest 
would probably be a #68.  I put 5 vent holes in a #209 nipple. One in the 
tip, and 4 around the sides seems to do a decent job.  The SS breech plug 
has about .020 clearance around the stem of the nipple and that gives the 
ring of fire pattern to the ignition when the side vents are directed 
forward into the powder.

The OEM nipple has 5 #67 vents in the same pattern.  But its backside 
vented  doesn't put enough power into a load of BlackHorn-209 to get it 
going, its damned hard to light stuff.  My version has no backside vents.

 On 10/30/2012 9:12 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  On Tuesday 30 October 2012 09:50:06 John Thornton did opine:
  Another reason is collet holders are much shorter than a drill chuck
  and on Z challenged machines like my BP switching between an end
  mill holder an a drill chuck is not always a practical thing... but
  at $200 for a set of collets it will be out of the range of many
  home shop machinists. I do have a jacobs chuck for my BP but don't
  use it.
  
  John
  
  I have similar problems with my little toy mill.  The average, I can
  buy it at Lowes, replacement chuck cannot reliably mount or hold the
  drills I use which can go as small as #72's.  If I ever seriously
  damage the chinese Horse brand chuck that came with the mill, I'll be
  out of business for drills under 1/16.  And its runout leaves a lot
  to be desired  getting worse.  I have to creep up on starting the
  hole and give it time to self- center, if it will, depends on the
  work material. copper plated pcb's are usually ok, TSC's grade of
  steel rod for a BP nipple gets very very pickity  needs wholesale
  qty's of the chosen bit size because that dulls them rapidly.  And
  I've not found anyone who will sell me carbide #68's in ten packs w/o
  a 3 digit price yet. :(
  
  For this sort of work, I seriously need an old 1/4 chuck from a 50 yo
  electric hand drill, but it still drills holes  I hate to tear up
  something that actually still works after all this time. :)
  
  On 10/30/2012 7:31 AM, Erik Christiansen wrote:
  On 30.10.12 06:15, John Thornton wrote:
  I don't use a drill chuck on any of my mills, I've been told ER
  collets are much better and that is what I use.
  
  Can't disagree a lot, for milling, anyway. IIRC, it was in a Tormach
  document that I read a note similar to this:
  
  Drill Chucks:
   Using a drill chuck to hold a tool used for side cutting is
   dangerous, though educational and often expensive. A Jacobs
   taper is _not_ designed for lateral loads, so vibration and
   side loads generally shake the drill chuck off its mount. As
   the spinning mass dissipates its kinetic energy, the flailing
   cutting edges shred any flesh or other vulnerable material in
   its path. Drill chucks are only to be used with axial forces,
   i.e. drilling.
  
  It's now one of my MOTD entries, so once in a while my wetware RAM
  is refreshed.
  
  I'd hate to buy a collet for every drill size I might use.
  
  Amen on that!  Not to mention that for my #2 morse spindle, collets
  under 1/8 suddenly are made from unobtainium.
  
  Erik
  
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Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Gene Heskett
On Tuesday 30 October 2012 11:18:04 andy pugh did opine:

 On 30 October 2012 14:58, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
   Can I also buy a #2 morse
  
  to ER11 adapter from them?  I am not exactly z challenged with my z
  drive
 
 http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-21/ER11-MT2-MK2-COLLET/Detail
 
Looks good. Good price too.

 Or possibly a straight-shank one in a chuck:
 http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-673/ER11-SHANK-10MM-100MM/Detail
 (maybe more scope to percussively adjust that to run true.)

Chuckle, percussively adjust.  Neat turn of phrase. Not great on spindle 
bearings to do so I'd assume. OTOH, I'm pounding their kidneys into their 
socks now, beating on the drawbar to release the #2 taper.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread John Stewart
Hi all;

Just for the record, on my KX1-NU mill, I use ER-16 collets.

I made the MT2 adapter, and got a smaller nut from Maritool.

So far, despite having about 20 things I can stick in it's MT2 taper, I have 
not removed the ER-16 holder since it was installed.

I DO LIKE the idea of the Tormach Tooling System, as using an equivalent 
described in Model Engineer back in the '50s for an older lathe I had worked 
wonders for repeatability. I'm thinking of something similar for my mill, as 
setting Z-depth all the time gets old fast.


John Alexander Stewart.
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Jon Elson
Sebastian Kuzminsky wrote:
 I got it off the J6 tool holder, and the J6 taper on the tool holder has 
 ~0.001 inches of runout now (measured with a DTI on the taper, while 
 mounted in the spindle and turning slowly).  I don't know what the 
 runout was before the crash, and I don't know what's acceptable.  Does 
 this seem reasonable, or should I scrap the tool holder too and look for 
 another?  My spindle has a QC-30 taper, which is somewhat unusual - tool 
 holders like this can be hard to come by.

   
Welcome to the world of machining!  (and, its downside.)

The problem is if there is .001 runout at the jacobs taper, then there 
will be several
times that at the jaws of a mounted drill chuck, and WAY more than that 
at the
tip of some drill bit.  What you have is not runout, but wobble, and it 
will just
get worse farther from the spindle.  If this was R-8, it wouldn't make 
sense to
even think about replacing the arbor, they are so cheap sellers often 
throw them in
almost for free with a good chuck.  So, you could consider trying to 
re-cut the
taper, ON the CNC machine.  Use the spindle as a lathe, put a lathe tool 
in the
vise and compute the right taper angle.  For .001 TIR, there is only a 
.0005
eccentricity, so you won't have to take off much material at all.

To do it right, you could install a die grinder or other powered spindle 
in the
vise, but to get up to the shoulder you'd need the grinder spindle to be 
vertical,
and you mention limited Z travel (but maybe not limited Z clearance, so this
might work).

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
I'm ordering this one: 
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKDPMPXNO=19506526PMAKA=319-3121

It's slightly shorter and slightly less expensive than the similar Rohm.

Thanks for all the advise.

-- 
Sebastian Kuzminsky


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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Eric Keller
Your experience makes me want to measure the runout on my jacobs taper
toolholders.  I am very well tooled up with collets and holders, so
generally I don't see much reason to use a chuck.  However, it can be
handy, no doubt

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 1:05 PM, Sebastian Kuzminsky s...@highlab.comwrote:

 I'm ordering this one:

 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKDPMPXNO=19506526PMAKA=319-3121

 It's slightly shorter and slightly less expensive than the similar Rohm.

 Thanks for all the advise.

 --
 Sebastian Kuzminsky



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Bruce Layne

On 10/30/2012 11:54 AM, John Stewart wrote:
 I DO LIKE the idea of the Tormach Tooling System

I just received my YinSheng Manufacturing ER-20 collet holders. They 
have a .750 shaft on the top and the TTS style ring with rebated top to 
Z locate on the bottom of the spindle.  Essentially, this turns an R8 
machine into a TTS machine for repeatable Z height and quick tool 
changes.  The R8 adapter stays in place and the TTS tools drop out the 
bottom.

The YinSheng ER-20 collet holders look very nice.  Good surface finish, 
nice and even black oxide in places.  Overall, they have a fairly high 
quality look to them.  Not quite top shelf, but just a little below 
that.  The quality is a pleasant surprise, considering that I paid $157 
for ten of these, including three day air mail delivery from China.  
Collets sold separately.  These don't have the groove to hang them in an 
automated tool changer, and the top of the 3/4 shaft isn't tapered to 
aid ATC insertion, but either feature could be easily added.

Less than $16 each seems like a great deal, considering these usually 
sell for a little under $60 each.  Added Bonus: They're cheaper to 
replace than a keyless Jacobs chuck when you crash your machine.  :-)

I'm going to get ten more just as soon as I verify some critical 
dimensions and measure the runout.  They're considerably less expensive 
than some people's set screw retained end mill holders!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=251139490102

I'm also impressed that I ordered this Saturday at 1:59 AM and they were 
delivered by DHL on Tuesday, mid morning.

My goal is to have every tool that I can in a quick change ER-20 collet 
holder.  I'll have one keyless chuck with a TTS base (en route from 
Tormach) for the occasional odd size drill bit, but the tools I use most 
for prototyping and the tools I use for my short run manufacturing will 
be in an ER-20 collet and programmed into a tool table.

Next up... the power draw bar.



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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread jeremy youngs
be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
a very good solution
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Eric Keller
On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 1:35 PM, jeremy youngs jcyoung...@gmail.com wrote:

 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
 a very good solution
 --

Gotta love ebay sometimes, I have a pretty complete set of milling collets
that have a retention bump for end mills
Eric
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread jeremy youngs
so how do you put ane endmill in them?

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 1:39 PM, Eric Keller eekel...@psu.edu wrote:
 On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 1:35 PM, jeremy youngs jcyoung...@gmail.com wrote:

 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
 a very good solution
 --

 Gotta love ebay sometimes, I have a pretty complete set of milling collets
 that have a retention bump for end mills
 Eric
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread andy pugh
On 30 October 2012 17:35, jeremy youngs jcyoung...@gmail.com wrote:
 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet

So what _do_ you use?

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread jeremy youngs
an endmill holder of course!!! thats what they are for. I am not a
conservative programmer and its really about cubic inches per hour :)
but experience has shown that any larger than 3/8 is asking for
trouble ( ive found said trouble once or twice :))

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 2:09 PM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 30 October 2012 17:35, jeremy youngs jcyoung...@gmail.com wrote:
 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet

 So what _do_ you use?

 --
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jeremy youngs

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Eric Keller
On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 1:42 PM, jeremy youngs jcyoung...@gmail.com wrote:

 so how do you put ane endmill in them?


The endmill holder is a captured plug that slides out radially to put the
endmill in, and then is held in place by the collet chuck.   So you have to
take the collet out of the chuck to change endmills.
Eric
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread jeremy youngs
thats pretty neat

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 2:21 PM, Eric Keller eekel...@psu.edu wrote:
 On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 1:42 PM, jeremy youngs jcyoung...@gmail.com wrote:

 so how do you put ane endmill in them?


 The endmill holder is a captured plug that slides out radially to put the
 endmill in, and then is held in place by the collet chuck.   So you have to
 take the collet out of the chuck to change endmills.
 Eric
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread andy pugh
On 30 October 2012 18:15, jeremy youngs jcyoung...@gmail.com wrote:
 an endmill holder of course!!! thats what they are for.

I confess I am not entirely sure what you mean by that term. (I am not
actually a machinist)
Are you referring to the ones with a screw in the side? Or something
more exotic like Shrink-fit?

I have some experience of the Clarkson screw-shanked collets being
rather too secure. Mainly in the form of collets with integral tools.

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread John Stewart
Jeremy;

 an endmill holder of course!!! thats what they are for. 

If you mean the ones with the screws on the side for weldon-shanked end mills, 
they have other issues.

By definition, the holes in these holders are larger than the end mill shank. 
(otherwise you'd never get the end mill in) 

The screw acts as a pivot point. So, you essentially have an end mill flexing 
in the holder; leading to wear, and if the end mill is not inserted properly, 
it *will* walk out as far as the screw will allow, so if you do use these, of 
course you are going to pull the end mill out by hand as you tighten the screw. 
The wear will appear as oval on the end of the holder, but it'll be tapered. 
Think about it - you are shaking that end mill shaft a few thousand times per 
minute, and there IS play in there.

Ok, ok. I gave away my clarkson auto lock chuck because screwed end end mills 
are not available, while plain shank end mills are a dime a dozen. (that's an  
expression, not a pricing structure!)

For the last 2 decades I have only used top-quality ER collets. My ER-25 set 
are Regio-Fix (Swiss) with Schaubin (sp?) holder. My 16 and 40 sets were from 
Maritool - probably paid too much, but as they all just work, with no known 
issues, so I'm sold.

Just make sure that they are clean (I use a bit of aluminum flashing rescued 
from some house-repair contractors to clean the grooves of the collets).

Anyway, I'm no expert, but the above may be something to think about. Will 
*you* experience wear in these screwed-shank holders? I've absolutely no idea, 
just keep it in the back of your mind that this can and does happen.

Back to your regularly scheduled programme… ;-)


John Alexander Stewart.
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread dave
On Tue, 2012-10-30 at 16:27 -0400, John Stewart wrote:
 Jeremy;
 
  an endmill holder of course!!! thats what they are for. 
 
 If you mean the ones with the screws on the side for weldon-shanked end 
 mills, they have other issues.
 
 By definition, the holes in these holders are larger than the end mill shank. 
 (otherwise you'd never get the end mill in) 
 
 The screw acts as a pivot point. So, you essentially have an end mill flexing 
 in the holder; leading to wear, and if the end mill is not inserted properly, 
 it *will* walk out as far as the screw will allow, so if you do use these, of 
 course you are going to pull the end mill out by hand as you tighten the 
 screw. The wear will appear as oval on the end of the holder, but it'll be 
 tapered. Think about it - you are shaking that end mill shaft a few thousand 
 times per minute, and there IS play in there.
 
 Ok, ok. I gave away my clarkson auto lock chuck because screwed end end mills 
 are not available, while plain shank end mills are a dime a dozen. (that's an 
  expression, not a pricing structure!)
 
 For the last 2 decades I have only used top-quality ER collets. My ER-25 set 
 are Regio-Fix (Swiss) with Schaubin (sp?) holder. My 16 and 40 sets were from 
 Maritool - probably paid too much, but as they all just work, with no known 
 issues, so I'm sold.
 
 Just make sure that they are clean (I use a bit of aluminum flashing 
 rescued from some house-repair contractors to clean the grooves of the 
 collets).
 
 Anyway, I'm no expert, but the above may be something to think about. Will 
 *you* experience wear in these screwed-shank holders? I've absolutely no 
 idea, just keep it in the back of your mind that this can and does happen.
 
 Back to your regularly scheduled programme… ;-)
 
 
 John Alexander Stewart.

A lot of the stuff I used to get from Boeing surplus had a whistle notch
ground in the shank. While they can  some loose they don't do it very
often. 

I regularly use ER20 collets , carefully torquing the nut to 75 ft-lb.
They don't seem to come loose even on the Mazak. 

Dave
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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread John Thornton
I use collets up to 3/4 with heavy cuts and huge fly cutters with no 
problem. Collets are for milling too.

John

On 10/30/2012 12:35 PM, jeremy youngs wrote:
 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
 a very good solution


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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Sam
you just need to tighten them correctly.  Has anyone actually looked up the 
torque tightening specs on collets?  I think you would be surprised  we 
have collets into the 1.5 to 2 inch range.  I don't ever remember any pulling 
out.

John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:

I use collets up to 3/4 with heavy cuts and huge fly cutters with no 
problem. Collets are for milling too.

John

On 10/30/2012 12:35 PM, jeremy youngs wrote:
 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
 a very good solution


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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread Stephen Dubovsky
Big difference between an R8/5C collet and, say, an ER/TG/DA collet in
terms of grip force / mechanical advantage when they are properly
torqued.  I used to have a handy chart comparing them but can't find
it.


 On 10/30/2012 12:35 PM, jeremy youngs wrote:
 be wary of milling with a collet, any serious cuts will tend to pull
 the endmill out ouf the collet. my position is i dont put an endmill
 larger than 3/8 in a collet they are for drills and reamers. otherwise
 a very good solution

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-30 Thread jeremy youngs
ok some valid points  yes an end mill holder is a hole with a set
screw in it. my night job is supervising 25 people and writing
programs. I use very high speed machining techniques . I promise that
if you spin an endmill in a collet half inch or larger at 10 k rpm and
feed it 2-300 in a min you will find the weakness of the collet and
that is it will pull out. I never said a collet was not for milling i
advised caution when doing so and to use them for smaller items. I
have enough experience in this matter to be certain this is good
advice fellas :)
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[Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-29 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
Bone headed error...  I am doing a small production run, using three 
different drills, each mounted in its own tool holder.  I had carefully 
measured the length of each tool and recorded them all in the tool 
table.  I had run about 10 parts, everything was going great, just a few 
left to go.

Then I got distracted and loaded the wrong tool...  Unlucky for me, the 
tool I loaded was much longer than the tool the machine asked for, and 
the machine happily drove a drill chuck with a #39 drill right into the 
work.

The drill shattered and disappeared in a spray of shrapnel (no one was 
hit).  The jaws of the drill chuck drilled about 0.100 inches down into 
the work piece (soft aluminum, fortunately).  The Z servo finally 
signaled a following error and e-stopped the machine.  The work and the 
fixture plate absorbed all the damage, the table of the machine is still 
unmarked.  So it could have been worse.

But the chuck is completely ruined.  It used to be a pretty nice keyless 
chuck, 1/32 to 1/2 gripping range, J6 taper.  Now it's garbage: the 
body (what I would normally turn to tighten and loosen the jaws) turns 
very reluctantly, and the jaws don't move at all when i turn it...

I got it off the J6 tool holder, and the J6 taper on the tool holder has 
~0.001 inches of runout now (measured with a DTI on the taper, while 
mounted in the spindle and turning slowly).  I don't know what the 
runout was before the crash, and I don't know what's acceptable.  Does 
this seem reasonable, or should I scrap the tool holder too and look for 
another?  My spindle has a QC-30 taper, which is somewhat unusual - tool 
holders like this can be hard to come by.

In either case I need a new drill chuck.

The wrecked chuck is of the keyless variety, and while that's convenient 
I'm considering replacing it with a keyed chuck because they tend to be 
shorter, and my quill is a bit limited in Z travel. Why do CNC machines 
usually have keyless chucks?

What do you all recommend for a good value on a drill chuck, about 1/32 
to 1/2, J6 taper?

Keyed or keyless?

Help me emc-users, you're my only hope!

-- 
Sebastian Kuzminsky


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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-29 Thread jeremy youngs
normally i use a keyless for the conenience of mounting an indicator
and dont use it for machining . i prefe collets to hold my drills.
.001 is ok if you are not using less than 1/8 drills not ideal but if
you  cannot readily replace the holder i wouldnt just pitch it . a
collet holder will also help your z clearnce as it is much shorter and
you should be able to ebay a keyed jacobs for 25-50 bucks so its not
trgic just a bummer
jeremy youngs

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Re: [Emc-users] I crashed my machine, now I need a new drill chuck

2012-10-29 Thread Bruce Layne
What a weird coincidence!  I'm finally getting around to a CNC retrofit 
of my milling machine and after buying some nice R8 tooling for manual 
machining, I decided to go with the Tormach Tooling System for the CNC 
upgrade.  In theory, I can swap the TTS collet out and use my R8 tooling 
as easily as swapping any other R8 tools, but I'm going all in for the 
TTS tools and I plan on leaving the R8 to TTS collet in the spindle, so 
I have some new and nearly new R8 tools that I don't need and was going 
to sell on eBay.  I had just now placed the Tormach order that included 
a TTS compatible 1/2 keyless chuck.

Here's the relevant segment of the post 
http://linuxcnc.org/index.php/english/forum/30-cnc-machines/25580-grizzly-g1006-milling-machine-cnc-conversion?start=24#26045
 
that I just wrapped up for my CNC milling machine build log thread on 
the LinuxCNC forum:

/I took a look at my well made Polish knockoff of an Albrecht
keyless chuck.  I wanted to tap it out of the R8 to Jacobs taper
adapter so I could buy a TTS Jacobs taper adapter and use my nice
keyless chuck, but I remember that the chuck fell out of the R8
adapter, even though I thoroughly degreased the mating parts and
wasn't using it to hold an endmill or any other tool that generates
lateral loads.  After that, I epoxied the two parts together.  I
guess I'll sell it on eBay as a one-piece unit, along with a lot of
other nice R8 tooling I bought and used little or not at all before
deciding to use TTS style tools in my milling machine after its CNC
retrofit.
/


You may not want the keyless chuck after I epoxied it to the R8 adapter, 
but it's a nice chuck.  I think it's exactly the specifications you 
mentioned, 1/32 to 1/2, although it mat be 5/8.  I'm still impressed 
that the jaws grab small diameters yet also securely grab large 
diameters.  It has tiny drill capability for such a large chuck.  And 
it's cheap!  Make me an offer offline if interested.  Include a generous 
post-crash good karma discount. :-)  Take off another 5% for your 
excellent Star Wars reference. :-)

I can measure the runout if you like.  I can take some pictures and 
email them so you aren't buying a pig in a poke.



On 10/30/2012 12:26 AM, Sebastian Kuzminsky wrote:
 Bone headed error...  I am doing a small production run, using three
 different drills, each mounted in its own tool holder.  I had carefully
 measured the length of each tool and recorded them all in the tool
 table.  I had run about 10 parts, everything was going great, just a few
 left to go.

 Then I got distracted and loaded the wrong tool...  Unlucky for me, the
 tool I loaded was much longer than the tool the machine asked for, and
 the machine happily drove a drill chuck with a #39 drill right into the
 work.

 The drill shattered and disappeared in a spray of shrapnel (no one was
 hit).  The jaws of the drill chuck drilled about 0.100 inches down into
 the work piece (soft aluminum, fortunately).  The Z servo finally
 signaled a following error and e-stopped the machine.  The work and the
 fixture plate absorbed all the damage, the table of the machine is still
 unmarked.  So it could have been worse.

 But the chuck is completely ruined.  It used to be a pretty nice keyless
 chuck, 1/32 to 1/2 gripping range, J6 taper.  Now it's garbage: the
 body (what I would normally turn to tighten and loosen the jaws) turns
 very reluctantly, and the jaws don't move at all when i turn it...

 I got it off the J6 tool holder, and the J6 taper on the tool holder has
 ~0.001 inches of runout now (measured with a DTI on the taper, while
 mounted in the spindle and turning slowly).  I don't know what the
 runout was before the crash, and I don't know what's acceptable.  Does
 this seem reasonable, or should I scrap the tool holder too and look for
 another?  My spindle has a QC-30 taper, which is somewhat unusual - tool
 holders like this can be hard to come by.

 In either case I need a new drill chuck.

 The wrecked chuck is of the keyless variety, and while that's convenient
 I'm considering replacing it with a keyed chuck because they tend to be
 shorter, and my quill is a bit limited in Z travel. Why do CNC machines
 usually have keyless chucks?

 What do you all recommend for a good value on a drill chuck, about 1/32
 to 1/2, J6 taper?

 Keyed or keyless?

 Help me emc-users, you're my only hope!


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