Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
From: EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org I have one of those Watts Up meters. It works nicely, within its limitations. It's US made (!), and appears to be really well built. I use it a fair bit. However, the specs claim a current capacity of 50 amps continuous and 100 amps peak. I think that's wildly optimistic. The shunt is built in, and you're right, the lead wires are only #14. I wouldn't use it at over 10-15 amps continuous. Even at 15a, I keep a fan blowing on it. I have one as well. I agree with David; it's well made and works as advertised. But indeed, it failed while continuously charging a battery at about 20-25 amps. An autopsy revealed that it burned open the tiny shunt, which then applied full voltage across the current sensing circuit, and blew out the electronics as well. -- Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James -- Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/controllers.htm now includes the GE EV-1 ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Add me to the list of people who was a happy owner until I burned it up as well. I would not hesitate to buy another if I have a need. I actually did some pretty heavy discharge testing with mine, but kept in on ice to help with the cooling. I burned mine up when i forgot about the max voltage level and exposed it to too high of voltage. damon Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 12:47:10 -0400 To: ev@lists.evdl.org Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery From: ev@lists.evdl.org From: EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org I have one of those Watts Up meters. It works nicely, within its limitations. It's US made (!), and appears to be really well built. I use it a fair bit. However, the specs claim a current capacity of 50 amps continuous and 100 amps peak. I think that's wildly optimistic. The shunt is built in, and you're right, the lead wires are only #14. I wouldn't use it at over 10-15 amps continuous. Even at 15a, I keep a fan blowing on it. I have one as well. I agree with David; it's well made and works as advertised. But indeed, it failed while continuously charging a battery at about 20-25 amps. An autopsy revealed that it burned open the tiny shunt, which then applied full voltage across the current sensing circuit, and blew out the electronics as well. -- Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James -- Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/controllers.htm now includes the GE EV-1 ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150717/3fa69dbe/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 07/17/2015 11:47 AM, Lee Hart via EV wrote: From: EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org I have one of those Watts Up meters. It works nicely, within its limitations. It's US made (!), and appears to be really well built. I use it a fair bit. However, the specs claim a current capacity of 50 amps continuous and 100 amps peak. I think that's wildly optimistic. The shunt is built in, and you're right, the lead wires are only #14. I wouldn't use it at over 10-15 amps continuous. Even at 15a, I keep a fan blowing on it. I have one as well. I agree with David; it's well made and works as advertised. But indeed, it failed while continuously charging a battery at about 20-25 amps. An autopsy revealed that it burned open the tiny shunt, which then applied full voltage across the current sensing circuit, and blew out the electronics as well. I'm apparently not seeing all list postings. This from Lee is all I've seen of the thread. I looked at the Wattsup and mate and decided the wire did look too small to pass entire battery current. That could be up around 100 amps. I thought of putting one meter per 20ah battery but didn't much like that solution. I have on order a couple of these: http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=37products_id=162 I already have shunts installed. The first battery install went very well. Two 20ah ebike batteries move the golf cart very nicely up the steepest hills I have. Range is a guesstimated 5 miles. I bought a total of four 20ah batteries so I will devote the other two to another golf cart. I look forward to getting the above meters installed so I can monitor voltage sag, current, and amphour accumulations. Here are some photos of the first golf cart: https://plus.google.com/photos/102434734002949174273/albums/6172547067287965665 I ordered two 72v 30ah batteries for my Zap. I plan to do the same with the Zap: make provision for about 5 batteries in parallel but install only two to begin with. The battery supplier assures me that the overcharge protection is on the discharge wires as well as the charge wires. That should allow me to charge with any old charger. I plan not to use the charge wires at all. Right now, I'm charging only with a little 2amp charger going into both batteries. I did charge briefly with a big golf cart charger @ about 18 amps but didn't want to leave it unattended. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 07/05/2015 01:38 PM, Willie2 wrote: I'm rather eagerly anticipating putting several 36v bicycle batteries in one or more golf carts. LFP cells are quoted around $1.20 per ah and the equivalent cost for bicycle batteries is slightly less than $1.20 delivered. BUT that includes a, hopefully, far more reliable BMS. I have some 20ah 36v 30amp batteries on the way; I envision using about 3 in a golf cart. Also available are 30ah 36v 60amp batteries; two of those might serve in a golf cart. More later. A question directed to Cor: Why do bicycle batteries have both charge and discharge connections? I now have a golf cart working on two 20ah ebike batteries. Though I'm prepared to put as many as five batteries in, two seem to be supplying sufficient current. This cart does not yet have an amphour counter. I've been using TBS meters but they are too expensive for this application. Does anyone have suggestions for cheap ah counters? This one: http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/meter-applications.html is slightly intriguing, but it looks like it may run demand current through 14 ga wire. I could probably use one per battery. I'm rather optimistic about using this type of ebike battery to replace more troublesome large LFP cells with kludged up BMSs. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I'm happy with this one: http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-red-led-Ideal-for-battery-monitoring-P870.aspx --Rick On 07/15/2015 06:59 AM, Willie2 via EV wrote: On 07/05/2015 01:38 PM, Willie2 wrote: I'm rather eagerly anticipating putting several 36v bicycle batteries in one or more golf carts. LFP cells are quoted around $1.20 per ah and the equivalent cost for bicycle batteries is slightly less than $1.20 delivered. BUT that includes a, hopefully, far more reliable BMS. I have some 20ah 36v 30amp batteries on the way; I envision using about 3 in a golf cart. Also available are 30ah 36v 60amp batteries; two of those might serve in a golf cart. More later. A question directed to Cor: Why do bicycle batteries have both charge and discharge connections? I now have a golf cart working on two 20ah ebike batteries. Though I'm prepared to put as many as five batteries in, two seem to be supplying sufficient current. This cart does not yet have an amphour counter. I've been using TBS meters but they are too expensive for this application. Does anyone have suggestions for cheap ah counters? This one: http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/meter-applications.html is slightly intriguing, but it looks like it may run demand current through 14 ga wire. I could probably use one per battery. I'm rather optimistic about using this type of ebike battery to replace more troublesome large LFP cells with kludged up BMSs. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 15 Jul 2015 at 5:59, Willie2 via EV wrote: This one: http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/meter-applications.html is slightly intriguing, but it looks like it may run demand current through 14 ga wire. I could probably use one per battery. I have one of those Watts Up meters. It works nicely, within its limitations. It's US made (!), and appears to be really well built. I use it a fair bit. However, the specs claim a current capacity of 50 amps continuous and 100 amps peak. I think that's wildly optimistic. The shunt is built in, and you're right, the lead wires are only #14. I wouldn't use it at over 10-15 amps continuous. Even at 15a, I keep a fan blowing on it. I originally intended it as a small EV fuel gauge, but for that it turned out to be a bust. The problem is the that the numbers you really want for use as a fuel gauge don't don't display continuously. The display shows voltage, current, and power all the time. A 4th slot rotates among AH, WH, maximum current, maxiumum power, and minimum voltage. I can't just glance at it and see how many AH I've used; I have to wait for the number to appear. That's not so good when you have to take your eyes off the road! I keep it in my EV toolbox, though. It's great for checking small battery capacity. I've considered using a makeshift prescaler with it. If I can accurately measure the total resistance of the internal shunt and connecting wires (the shunt is in the negative side), I should be able to add a parallel shunt of 1/9 the resistance. Then for a 100 amp load, it would display 10 amps. The trick would be calibrating the external shunt. I usually don't buy shady Asian stuff, but this here's one with an external shunt, and features that might enable it to work better as a small EV fuel gauge. It was cheap enough that I ordered one to try out. Ebay item # 161751430848 $31.20 (includes shipping) DC 120V 100A Voltage Amp Power Capacity Meter ... I just got it and haven't even had a chance to connect it yet. It claims to work at 10-90v (0-120v with external power) and up to 100a. It can supposedly be set to display your choice of 2 parameters, using front panel switches. It also has a calibration mode. I'm not sure whether that's a bad sign or a good one. :-\ As a first impression, the meter and connection board look OK. Soldering looks decent. However, the shunt looks like junk. It's kind of crooked, and stinks of chemicals (probably the gunky black stuff they slathered on its middle). There's also no mounting bracket for the shunt, so I'll have to make one with phenolic or something similar. More when I get a chance to actually try it, if anyone's interested. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On Wed Jul 15 03:59:18 PDT 2015 ev@lists.evdl.org said: sufficient current. This cart does not yet have an amphour counter. I've been using TBS meters but they are too expensive for this application. Does anyone have suggestions for cheap ah counters? I like this one: http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-blue-led-Ideal-for-battery-monitoring-P278.aspx -- Tigers prowl and Dragons soar in my dreams... ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
tyr Jim at headway headquaters in washington . He answers the phonemost always and offers good adivse, he very hoonest. Prices at kinda high but his support is very good. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 07/05/2015 01:55 PM, Mike Beem wrote: Willie- I would reply off-list if I could about this, but your contact info is not on the e-mail; maybe that's been going on for a while and I just haven't noticed because I haven't had any questions I wanted to ask any individuals for that same period of time. Anyway, I would like to have the contact/company information for these batteries as I want to upgrade my Terra Trike from lead acid (24V). I have been looking on eBay and the Tradin' Post for a while and haven't seen anything I would feel confident in ordering. I've had generally good luck, not perfect, ordering through Alibaba/AliExpress. Certainly, I would not guarantee success for all, though. Here are two suppliers that have piqued my interest: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/202225 http://www.aliexpress.com/store/208817 There are other ebike battery suppliers on Alibaba/AliExpress and i have not attempted to look at them all. Most/all sell their batteries with chargers so i imagine a lead upgrade would be mostly a form factor problem. BTW, your email address came to me from you list reply. Are you viewing the list as a digest or through a forum? ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 06/17/2015 01:55 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote: On 17 Jun 2015 at 8:17, Willie2 via EV wrote: I have a battery that looks to be a direct replacement coming from China. I don't want to fool with a battery that does not conform to the form factor of the original battery. Looks to be sounds a little discomfiting. I hope you get what you expect. I see a lot of questionable generic lithium batteries going at tantalizingly low prices on Ebay and the like, but my caution always kicks in: you don't always get what you pay for, but you very seldom get what you don't pay for. This battery is now in service (on an ebike) and has been through a few cycles. It was a direct replacement as far as form factor. No trouble so far. I'm rather eagerly anticipating putting several 36v bicycle batteries in one or more golf carts. LFP cells are quoted around $1.20 per ah and the equivalent cost for bicycle batteries is slightly less than $1.20 delivered. BUT that includes a, hopefully, far more reliable BMS. I have some 20ah 36v 30amp batteries on the way; I envision using about 3 in a golf cart. Also available are 30ah 36v 60amp batteries; two of those might serve in a golf cart. More later. A question directed to Cor: Why do bicycle batteries have both charge and discharge connections? ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Yes, if one really wants to protect from cell failure then fuse each cell like Tesla does. Sent from my iPad On Jun 19, 2015, at 1:33 PM, Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: I said it, because it has come up in papers and journal articles I have read. Paul agreed with me I think. The basic Li ion cell does not self discharge - none of them. Once charged they will just sit there and remain asis until something creates a circuit for the ions to migrate back to the positive electrode. I don't understand the mechanism for PbSO4, but they do discharge just sitting unattached to any circuit - all of them. What this says is if a cell is having ions migrate back to the positive electrode that something is wrong. There are all sorts of manufacturing defects that can cause it, or BMS deficiencies, etc. No amount of correction to a lead acid will stop it from discharging. If you tell me that your Thundersky cells shows a loss over time, I don't disbelieve that - I say instead, they needed more and better design work and some manufacturing improvement. There is some sort of fault causing an internal or external parasitic load. The prismatic, folded page cells, like CALB and TS are not very good in many respects, Some (all?) bolt the conductive plates onto an aluminum post with a threaded fastener. Bleh. Notice that folks like Tesla did not choose that form - even though the alternative was to make individual connections to 7000 smalls to accomplish the task. Those little cylindrical cells have some advantages. They lend themselves to very automated, read consistent, construction. Consistency is very important at the pack level. The cylindrical form is much more stable when subjected to the volumetric changes that Li ion cells undergo when charging and discharging. They can't be packed too close that they cannot convect heat well (with some extra gear to puch air (or other fluids around them). Internally the cylindrical cells are simpler with less opportunity for failure. The connection to a pack by welding is as good as it gets. And so on. I am pretty sure in that video by Jeff Dahn I keep alluding to (and linking) he mentions this characteristic of Li ion cells. Did you all notice that article Bruce linked to about Tesla funding research at the Dahn Lab? I am hoing the Tesla will make these results open to all as they have so many other things in the interest of furthering the use of EVs. Look forward for new information, rather than back to the old and less well done research. Stuff we read from 2009 is quite stale WRT Li cells. Mike On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 1:15 PM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 06/19/2015 11:58 AM, Ben Goren wrote: On Jun 19, 2015, at 9:33 AM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. His methodology is inadequate to the task -- rather like using a roadside truck scale to weigh the first four people to pass by and concluding that all humans weigh exactly 200 pounds. You may be implying that Paul attempted to deduce self discharge from cell voltage? When my first lithium pack was new, I was frequently amazed that NUMEROUS EV folks with extensive lead experience would put a volt meter to my cells and proclaim: Why these cells are PERFECTLY balanced! I don't know how many times I've attempted to explain that it is almost impossible to determine state of charge from voltage on lithium cells. Other than at the tails, of course. Though I don't know that Paul made that mistake. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought. *Warren Buffet* Michael E. Ross (919) 585-6737 Land (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone (919) 631-1451 Cell michael.e.r...@gmail.com michael.e.r...@gmail.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150619/a90c49e5/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Ben Goren via EV wrote: I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. His methodology is inadequate to the task -- rather like using a roadside truck scale to weigh the first four people to pass by and concluding that all humans weigh exactly 200 pounds. Lee, in comparison, is akin to a long-time general practice physician who's kept aggregate patient records of vital statistics for decades, and concludes that...80% more likely to need treatment... I wouldn't put it that starkly. I'd say it's more like Joe Blow buying a new ICE car, and at 3000 miles he sees that the oil level on the dipstick is still the same. So he concludes that it doesn't use a drop of oil! So he skips the oil changes. 2 years and 30,000 miles later, the car is towed to the dealer, three quarts low and with a wrecked engine. On the other hand, his mechanic Crusty swears by 3000 mile oil changes. That's not always necessary; but it's good insurance. People who do this can expect to go 200,000 miles before the engine is using any significant amount of oil. So it's more like the blind men and the elephant. Each sees the same data, but come to different conclusions because of their perspective. I'm not some big company; I'm a lone wolf working in his basement. I have to get my batteries cheap; as bargains, or donations, or old, or used, or on loan so I don't dare hurt them. That means they aren't likely to be prime stock. But that's a good thing! I get to see batteries at their WORST, not just at their best. Another thing... The storage battery is one of those peculiar things which appeals to the imagination, and no more perfect thing could be desired by stock swindlers. Just as soon as a man gets working on the secondary battery, it brings out his latent capacity for lying. -- Thomas A. Edison There are few industries with more BS than the battery industry. -- Elon Musk Battery information has been unreliable for a hundred years. 99% of what you read is either lying to make money, or the mindless parroting of what someone else said. This mean you should treat everything you read about batteries as BS (baloney sandwiches, as Carl Sagan said). You have to *test it for yourself*! This is tedious; but not particularly difficult or expensive. And, you need to keep a skeptical mind. Just because one does X doesn't mean that they all do X. It's as if there's a devious little demon inside, doing everything in his power to trick you. With only a few quick tests, he's likely to lie to you (and get away with it)! So you need to be diligent, and repeat your tests in different ways to pry the truth out of him. Oh yeah? *Prove* it! -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I haven't seen any science from BMS advocates yet. They make lots of assumptions based on nothing. Besides I have a BMS I just don't have a cell level BMS. I haven't heard the theory on self discharge yet? Or the rate at which they discharge or an example of someone putting one on the shelf for 5 years then measuring the voltage and capacity. Save for Jack Richard who boldly did it and published a video. I read a lot of papers and I only found one that talks about self discharge although I don't agree with the way they use the term because what they really verify in the paper is capacity fade. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 19, 2015, at 3:34 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Ben Goren via EV wrote: I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. His methodology is inadequate to the task -- rather like using a roadside truck scale to weigh the first four people to pass by and concluding that all humans weigh exactly 200 pounds. Lee, in comparison, is akin to a long-time general practice physician who's kept aggregate patient records of vital statistics for decades, and concludes that...80% more likely to need treatment... I wouldn't put it that starkly. I'd say it's more like Joe Blow buying a new ICE car, and at 3000 miles he sees that the oil level on the dipstick is still the same. So he concludes that it doesn't use a drop of oil! So he skips the oil changes. 2 years and 30,000 miles later, the car is towed to the dealer, three quarts low and with a wrecked engine. On the other hand, his mechanic Crusty swears by 3000 mile oil changes. That's not always necessary; but it's good insurance. People who do this can expect to go 200,000 miles before the engine is using any significant amount of oil. So it's more like the blind men and the elephant. Each sees the same data, but come to different conclusions because of their perspective. I'm not some big company; I'm a lone wolf working in his basement. I have to get my batteries cheap; as bargains, or donations, or old, or used, or on loan so I don't dare hurt them. That means they aren't likely to be prime stock. But that's a good thing! I get to see batteries at their WORST, not just at their best. Another thing... The storage battery is one of those peculiar things which appeals to the imagination, and no more perfect thing could be desired by stock swindlers. Just as soon as a man gets working on the secondary battery, it brings out his latent capacity for lying. -- Thomas A. Edison There are few industries with more BS than the battery industry. -- Elon Musk Battery information has been unreliable for a hundred years. 99% of what you read is either lying to make money, or the mindless parroting of what someone else said. This mean you should treat everything you read about batteries as BS (baloney sandwiches, as Carl Sagan said). You have to *test it for yourself*! This is tedious; but not particularly difficult or expensive. And, you need to keep a skeptical mind. Just because one does X doesn't mean that they all do X. It's as if there's a devious little demon inside, doing everything in his power to trick you. With only a few quick tests, he's likely to lie to you (and get away with it)! So you need to be diligent, and repeat your tests in different ways to pry the truth out of him. Oh yeah? *Prove* it! -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Have you guys heard of lithium-sulphur cells? http://www.oxisenergy.com I am travelling in the UK at the moment, and the friend I am staying with told me that this company is not far from where we are, we are going to arrange a visit. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Michael Ross via EV Sent: Friday, 19 June 2015 8:45 p.m. To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery Cor, From an electrochemical point of view, the laptop fires were due to components in the cells (electrolyte and separator primarily), that ignited from an internal short, but were sustained by the components gassing off oxygen at higher temperatures, causing a runaway situation. More heat = more oxygen = more heat=... If the chemicals/construction didn't self support combustion, then little dendritic shorts would be less consequential. One of the reasons that LFP cells fare better is a much higher temperature when self supporting combustion happens. There is about 100°C more head room. That doesn't mean they won't burn up fast though given the right conditions The family of lithium ion cell has the capability, when designed and operated properly, not to have any loss of charge from just sitting. This is not true for some other battery chemistries - lead acid in particular. You can't apply the understanding of one to the other in this respect. The trickle charge subject is similar. PbSO4 cells benefit from a light trickle charge to make up for the gradual loss of sitting. The same treatment will destroy Li ion cells, but there is no need because they don't lose their charge - if they are made right and their operating systems are right. On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 3:05 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Michael, I think you are starting to get it, even though you express it in a peculiar way. In real life, nothing is 100% pure. Every material and every surface has *some* contamination, even in a clean room. They just make sure that what is still there is small enough or in low enough numbers that it does not really hurt their yield, but they still need to test every circuit since it still may be unacceptably damaged by the unavoidable contamination. Same in battery manufacturing - it only needs to be clean enough that the effect introduced by contamination is low enough not to harm the operation of the cell and for example the self-discharge is within specification. Have you ever seen a modern cell manufacturing facility? It is almost as good as a clean room just as all modern electronics production is done in very clean environment just to avoid failures. I do not know enough about the chemistry of the battery physics to judge if there is an inherent mechanism of self-discharge. I do know that a lot of battery parameters are a trade-off, for example you can buy batteries with higher power but with lower capacity or you can buy higher capacity with lower power (in the same form factor). Similar trade-offs exist between high and low temp operation. It may be that the basic chemical reaction does not have a self-discharge mechanism and that a theoretical perfect Li-Ion cell has no self-discharge. But that is the same as saying that a theoretical perfectly sealed ICE engine does not need new motor oil ever, because it does not leak. Still I check my oil level from time to time, even though I know that it does not leak now, I could be losing oil and damage the engine if I do not keep an eye on the level once in a while. The well-documented laptop Lithium battery fires were actually attributed to excessive contamination of battery cells during production, which could even cause short circuits in the cells and thermal runaway around those (large) contaminations. So - the result of this is that no matter how good manufactured, any Li-Ion cell will have some self-discharge. High quality cells will have lower numbers than more sloppy produced cells and variation of self-discharge will also be an indication of quality and consistency of the manufacturing process, but saying that there is no such thing while everyone who is working with batteries tells you that it does exist is, well, denying reality. Hope this clarifies, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Michael Ross
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 19 Jun 2015 at 23:00, Michael Ross via EV wrote: Self discharge would be where the capacity has not decreased, but the amount available in the cell is less - very hard to measure accurately the actual charge level with normal DIY instrumentation when the change is small. Did you read Lee Hart's earlier post? http://www.evdl.org/archive/index.html#nabble-td4676242i40|a4676355 That is EXACTLY what he measured. If one is trying to determine self discharge by measuring voltage, that probably won't yield a valid answer. Though I'm no electrochemist, my understanding is that one can't reliably judge a lithium cell's SOC (or any other type of cell's, really) by its voltage, except in very limited circumstances. Perhaps this paper would help. Anyone here have an IEEE login? Self-discharge losses in lithium-ion cells http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/xpl/login.jsp?tp=arnumber=1269687url=http%3A%2F% 2Fieeexplore.ieee.org%2Fiel5%2F62%2F28408%2F01269687.pdf%3Farnumber%3D1269687 http://v.gd/0IqfFJ The self-discharge losses in several lithium-ion cell designs have been measured by three different methods. The losses are separated into time- dependent and state-of-charge dependent contributions. For most cycling conditions, the time-dependent self-discharge losses are dominant; however, after several months of stand on open circuit or float charge, the state-of- charge dependent losses become significant. The self-discharge rate has been found to not increase monotonically with state-of-charge, but to drop somewhat at intermediate states of charge. The implications of these measurements for maintaining balanced cell capacities in batteries and establishing optimum storage voltage levels for batteries are discussed. Or perhaps this one : Investigation on the Self-discharge of the LiFePO4/C nanophosphate battery chemistry at different conditions http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/xpl/login.jsp?tp=arnumber=6940762url=http%3A%2F% 2Fieeexplore.ieee.org%2Fxpls%2Fabs_all.jsp%3Farnumber%3D6940762 http://v.gd/gfBgE2 In this paper the self-discharge of the nanophosphate LiFePO4/C is studied at different temperature, SOC conditions and at different SOH levels of the battery. Moreover, cell to cell differences in self-discharge caused by the manufacturing tolerances are investigated. Or maybe here. http://iopscience.iop.org/0957-4484/24/42/424009/ In this paper, Raman spectroscopy was used to study the surface phase change during charge and self-discharge on a more localized scale for three morphologies of LiFePO4 ... Curiously the following page says that LiFePO4 has a HIGHER self discharge rate than other Li chemistries. However, it doesn't explain why nor does it give any references, so I'm skeptical. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion The following paper discusses how to simulate the effect of self-discharge in LiFePO4 cells, but doesn't explain the chemistry which might cause it. http://www.dsea.unipi.it/Members/huriaw/journal-paper I found a paper which references yet another paper as stating that LiFePO4 self discharge is on the order of 8%(!) per month. The referenced paper is A. Chih-Chiang Hua and B. Zong-Wei Syue, Charge and Discharge Characteristics of Lead-Acid Battery and LiFePO4 Battery.: The 2010 International Power Electronics Conference. Here is the referenced paper. ftp://213.176.96.142/ieee345c50ff-abaf-20141124102512.pdf Regrettably it simply states this as a fait accompli, but fails to explain the electrochemical mechanism for self discharge. I spent way too much of my time on this research tonight, and that was just on the web. I haven't even hit the library yet! However, I found many discussions of self discharge in lithium cells of all types, including LiFePO4. Most of these were either comparisons of LiFePO4 with other chemistries, or were discussing ways to compensate for the cell imbalance that results when these cells are used in batteries. I was able to find only one reference which even suggested that lithium cells might not have a self discharge. In fact it was very similar to the statement made recently on the EVDL that lithium cells have no specific mechanism for self discharge. http://electricvehiclesnews.com/Technology/Lithium-ion_battery.htm According to one manufacturer, lithium-ion cells (and, accordingly, dumb lithium-ion batteries) do not have any self-discharge in the usual meaning of this word. What looks like a self-discharge in these batteries is a permanent loss of capacity ... Unfortunately the author doesn't give any reference for this statement. He doesn't even identify the one manufacturer. Of course if one desperately wants to believe that lithium batteries don't self-discharge, maybe one website with no references is sufficient. ;-) As for actual lithium cells that normal people can buy ... This spec sheet from a LiFePO4 manufacturer specifies a self-discharge rate
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
What I saw Rickard talk about was packs of somewhat uncertain provenance - the Israeli Better Place packs weren't they? He sort of knew when the got shelved before he bought them and inferred capacity fade from how they seemed to him after delivery. And he also had a bath of charged CALB cells he shelved. I guess he knew pretty much about the CALB cells. I think he said capacity dropped about 1% a year. It is worth asking, what happened between when the cells were made when and they landed in Missouri? A scientific study would require some traceability. I didn't hear JR say they self discharged, but that could be memory fade. He might have known the SOC of the CALBs at t=0. But he probably had to measure voltage (not reliable perhaps), and again I am not admitting the capacity decreases were due to self discharge. They may look the same but they are not. Self discharge would be where the capacity has not decreased, but the amount available in the cell is less - very hard to measure accurately the actual charge level with normal DIY instrumentation when the change is small. On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 5:28 PM, Paul Dove via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: I haven't seen any science from BMS advocates yet. They make lots of assumptions based on nothing. Besides I have a BMS I just don't have a cell level BMS. I haven't heard the theory on self discharge yet? Or the rate at which they discharge or an example of someone putting one on the shelf for 5 years then measuring the voltage and capacity. Save for Jack Richard who boldly did it and published a video. I read a lot of papers and I only found one that talks about self discharge although I don't agree with the way they use the term because what they really verify in the paper is capacity fade. -- To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought. *Warren Buffet* Michael E. Ross (919) 585-6737 Land (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone (919) 631-1451 Cell michael.e.r...@gmail.com michael.e.r...@gmail.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150619/e8440f4a/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Paul, I'm not following you, here. How can you have 4v open circuit applied to anything? You could measure 4v open circuit across a power supply or, for that matter, a disconnected battery. But, I thought, the moment you connect it to something, you no longer have an open circuit. Unless, of course, the grounds of the two systems aren't connected. In the latter case, though - if the grounds aren't connected - I don't see how 4v or 100v would make any difference. There cannot be any current flowing and thus no voltage being applied. Peri -- Original Message -- From: Paul Dove via EV ev@lists.evdl.org To: Cor van de Water cwa...@proxim.com; Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: 19-Jun-15 4:10:52 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery That's what Boeing said but it's interesting that these batteries are used in many applications and none of them had fires. Open circuit voltage is what needs to be considered not max charge voltage, I haven't tried this but I may just to prove a point. If you hold 4 volts on one of these cells indefinitely it will burn. Which is what they were doing. Also it was a starter battery so they didn't use much to start the APU and then is held 4 volts on the cells. Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 11:47 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, the 29.6V is not the max charge voltage of the pack. It is the nominal voltage: 8 x 3.7V (these were Cobalt cells) = 29.6V So the max 32V on the bus is actually only 4V per cell and that means that they keep those cells below max charge voltage of 4.2V So, it was not possible that the battery was over-charged, unless a cell shorted and the 32V was applied to 7 cells in series instead of 8! Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Paul Dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 8:21 PM To: Cor van de Water via EV Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery We already covered how to tell is a cell has internal defects. You drain the cell to 2.5 volts and then if the cell voltage rises it's good if it keeps falling don't use it. I did think this up This is what NASA does. I read it in one of their presentations. I can dig it up if you like. As for the Dreamliner I followed that carefully. My favorite chart that they presented to the FAA said - the only thing that causes lithium battery fires is overchargeing - we can find no evidence we are over charging - therefore the cause of the fire is unknown One of those statements has to be wrong. And the fire was the evidence of overcharging. The open circuit voltage of their battery was 29.6 volts. The system voltage was 32 volts. They were charging the cells the whole time the APU was running and wondering why it burned. As for laptops they were overcharging as well. The paper I read the designer claimed that leaving a small amount of current flowing or trickle charge as they call it would not hurt lithium batteries. Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 9:59 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: This message has no content. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150618/c4bcfdcb/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Cor van de Water via EV wrote: I would be very surprised if DeWalt does not have a BMS on their Lithium packs, all power tool packs with Lithium that I have opened always come with a BMS which both checks every cell and turns off any current flow above max and under min voltage levels. The last DeWalt lithium pack I saw open did indeed have a BMS. It was the usual switchable shunt across each cell. In fact, most of the controller was inside the battery pack too, rather than in the tool. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
/That is a reason I don't use a cell level BMS. With a cell level BMS like the miniBMS there is a constant drain on the cells running the BMS boards and it is nearly impossible to make sure that each board uses the _exact_ same current regardless of voltage in the cell./ The constant drain is less 4mA with about +/-20% variability, so the difference between cells is at most 2 microamp. /Furthermore, boards like the miniBMS expect that you will balance at the end of every charge and last I saw, that balance voltage was at 3.6V or so which is over the theoretical 100% SOC level for LiFePO4 cells which leads to potential overcharging of the cells on every charge cycle./ Balance voltage on the minibms for LiFePO4 cells has always been 3.5V, from the very first ones made to the present. Check the original minibms thread on diyelectriccar if you don't believe it. I purchased some of the first boards and am still using them. Also, 3.6V while charging is not necessarily over the theoretical max SoC. According to Whitacre cell rest voltage of 3.4V is 100% SoC. The voltage will be higher while charging while near full charge due to the voltage drop across the cell effective internal resistance. The higher the charge current, the higher the cell voltage will be at a given SoC. Of course if you go too high in cell voltage (4.2V according to Whitacre) you start to break down the electrolyte. When I charge my pack to 3.53V average cell voltage, they are at 3.344V average after 2 hours rest. CALB and others used to spec charge to 4.1 or 4.2V at 0.05C rate, which would result in a full charge and rest voltage of about 3.4V per cell. They haven't spec'ed that for years though. They relaxed it to 3.6V. I would guess for longer cell life and the fact that there is little difference in useable charge. /If you stop charging without the balancing taking place and/or let the pack sit for extended periods of time then the different current draw of each board working 24/7 introduces an imbalance in the SOC of the cells in the pack./ I do partial charges without any shunting 70% of the time. When I do charge to 3.53V per cell to get shunting, the first cells start shunting about 10 minutes before charging terminates, and by end of charge all shunt LEDs are on. The highest cells reach about 3.55V. I've let the car sit for over 2 weeks while away for work or on vacation and the pack voltage reads the same voltage when I return as when I left. The next full charge there may be several cells that don't shunt, but they all do after a couple of full charges. The pack has 5 1/2 years and about 45,000 miles on it. I think you have to keep the scale of things in mind. These effects are small. I've found them inconsequential in daily operation of the vehicle. I think the main effect on cell life is temperature. I expressed concern about that several years ago when the Whitacre video first came out and he said don't exceed 50C to 60C. I questioned then which was the limit, pointing out that 50C was a big problem for a place like Phoenix. But I am not going to let the car sit in hot weather. I use it as my daily driver. If hot weather shortens the pack life, then so be it. I want to see how it operates as a car, not a hobby. Yesterday the cells were at about 105F (41C) after about 75 miles driving in about 96F ambient. That's pretty typical for the last 5 years during June - August, but I have measured as high as 116F (47C). -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Bicycle-battery-tp4676242p4676353.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Cor van de Water via EV wrote: I have Lithium cells (CALB 180Ah) sitting in my garage since 1.5 years and have measured their self-discharge and plotted it in an Excel spreadsheet. I can *see* their self-discharge. I can *see* effect from ambient temperature on the change in self-discharge rate... I can *see* differences up to a factor 2 in self-discharge between cells... I've done the same thing with Thundersky. The results were the same, except that the self-discharge rates differed by more than 4:1. Additionally, the self-discharge rate is dramatically faster at higher states of charge. The closer it gets to 0 SOC, the slower the self-discharge rate. Since the voltage-vs-state of charge curve is so flat from about 20-80% SOC, voltage alone is a poor indicator of state of charge. This will fool you into thinking there is no self-discharge, because the voltage won't change enough to measure between these SOCs. To determine how much charge was lost over time, I fully charge the cells. Then let them sit in parallel for a day. Then remove the connections, and wait X days. Then measure the amphour capacity of each cell. Recharge the cells, and repeat the process, but with successively larger values of X. So for example, I might find that a 60ah cell yields: - 60ah for X = 1 day after charging - 58ah for X = 30 days after charging - 56ah for X = 6 months after charging - 54ah for X = 1 year after charging Now, 10% a year is a pretty low self-discharge rate. 6ah per year corresponds to an 8ma self-discharge current. The problem is that it varies so much between cells. It means the cells can drift 10% apart per year. This won't matter in the short term, but it adds up over time. I'm also testing a set of A123 cells. The self-discharge rate is similar, but the differences between cells is much smaller; less than 2:1. I'm coming up on the 2-year point for them next month. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 06/19/2015 10:58 AM, Lee Hart via EV wrote: Cor van de Water via EV wrote: I have Lithium cells (CALB 180Ah) sitting in my garage since 1.5 years and have measured their self-discharge and plotted it in an Excel spreadsheet. I can *see* their self-discharge. I can *see* effect from ambient temperature on the change in self-discharge rate... I can *see* differences up to a factor 2 in self-discharge between cells... I've done the same thing with Thundersky. The results were the same, except that the self-discharge rates differed by more than 4:1. Additionally, the self-discharge rate is dramatically faster at higher states of charge. The closer it gets to 0 SOC, the slower the self-discharge rate. Since the voltage-vs-state of charge curve is so flat from about 20-80% SOC, voltage alone is a poor indicator of state of charge. This will fool you into thinking there is no self-discharge, because the voltage won't change enough to measure between these SOCs. To determine how much charge was lost over time, I fully charge the cells. Then let them sit in parallel for a day. Then remove the connections, and wait X days. Then measure the amphour capacity of each cell. Recharge the cells, and repeat the process, but with successively larger values of X. So for example, I might find that a 60ah cell yields: - 60ah for X = 1 day after charging - 58ah for X = 30 days after charging - 56ah for X = 6 months after charging - 54ah for X = 1 year after charging Now, 10% a year is a pretty low self-discharge rate. 6ah per year corresponds to an 8ma self-discharge current. The problem is that it varies so much between cells. It means the cells can drift 10% apart per year. This won't matter in the short term, but it adds up over time. I'm also testing a set of A123 cells. The self-discharge rate is similar, but the differences between cells is much smaller; less than 2:1. I'm coming up on the 2-year point for them next month. Thanks for the methodology for REALLY measuring self discharge. I was quite taken aback when Paul claimed there was none! All cell manufacturers make claims on low self discharge but, as far as I know, no manufacturer claims no self discharge. I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On Jun 19, 2015, at 9:33 AM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. His methodology is inadequate to the task -- rather like using a roadside truck scale to weigh the first four people to pass by and concluding that all humans weigh exactly 200 pounds. Lee, in comparison, is akin to a long-time general practice physician who's kept aggregate patient records of vital statistics for decades, and concludes that, among his patients, those over age 50 with weight and waist-to-hip ratios more than three standard deviations from average are 80% more likely to need treatment for a cardiovascular condition, and far less likely to have an history of regular vigorous physical activity. He then compares his own data set with Census Bureau and NIH statistics and concludes that, adjusted for variations in the demographics of his patients, they're all pretty much on the same page in terms of observations. But in Paul's world, that's all bunk because everybody weighs exactly 200 pounds, as confirmed by his own measurements, so all that stuff about diet and exercise is equal bunk. b -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: signature.asc Type: application/pgp-signature Size: 801 bytes Desc: Message signed with OpenPGP using GPGMail URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150619/ce88256e/attachment.pgp ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 06/19/2015 11:58 AM, Ben Goren wrote: On Jun 19, 2015, at 9:33 AM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. His methodology is inadequate to the task -- rather like using a roadside truck scale to weigh the first four people to pass by and concluding that all humans weigh exactly 200 pounds. You may be implying that Paul attempted to deduce self discharge from cell voltage? When my first lithium pack was new, I was frequently amazed that NUMEROUS EV folks with extensive lead experience would put a volt meter to my cells and proclaim: Why these cells are PERFECTLY balanced! I don't know how many times I've attempted to explain that it is almost impossible to determine state of charge from voltage on lithium cells. Other than at the tails, of course. Though I don't know that Paul made that mistake. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I just report what I observe. My cells don't self discharge. Only had one reverse and as I said that was a loose connection. I don't know of anyone who claims their cells went to zero sitting on a shelf. Unless they were defective it should never happen. However, there's probably a low percentage of defective cells produced. Irrelevant to the workings of a battery pack since they can be tested prior to building the pack Sent from my iPad On Jun 19, 2015, at 2:05 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Michael, I think you are starting to get it, even though you express it in a peculiar way. In real life, nothing is 100% pure. Every material and every surface has *some* contamination, even in a clean room. They just make sure that what is still there is small enough or in low enough numbers that it does not really hurt their yield, but they still need to test every circuit since it still may be unacceptably damaged by the unavoidable contamination. Same in battery manufacturing - it only needs to be clean enough that the effect introduced by contamination is low enough not to harm the operation of the cell and for example the self-discharge is within specification. Have you ever seen a modern cell manufacturing facility? It is almost as good as a clean room just as all modern electronics production is done in very clean environment just to avoid failures. I do not know enough about the chemistry of the battery physics to judge if there is an inherent mechanism of self-discharge. I do know that a lot of battery parameters are a trade-off, for example you can buy batteries with higher power but with lower capacity or you can buy higher capacity with lower power (in the same form factor). Similar trade-offs exist between high and low temp operation. It may be that the basic chemical reaction does not have a self-discharge mechanism and that a theoretical perfect Li-Ion cell has no self-discharge. But that is the same as saying that a theoretical perfectly sealed ICE engine does not need new motor oil ever, because it does not leak. Still I check my oil level from time to time, even though I know that it does not leak now, I could be losing oil and damage the engine if I do not keep an eye on the level once in a while. The well-documented laptop Lithium battery fires were actually attributed to excessive contamination of battery cells during production, which could even cause short circuits in the cells and thermal runaway around those (large) contaminations. So - the result of this is that no matter how good manufactured, any Li-Ion cell will have some self-discharge. High quality cells will have lower numbers than more sloppy produced cells and variation of self-discharge will also be an indication of quality and consistency of the manufacturing process, but saying that there is no such thing while everyone who is working with batteries tells you that it does exist is, well, denying reality. Hope this clarifies, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Michael Ross via EV Sent: Friday, June 19, 2015 11:34 AM To: Willie2; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I said it, because it has come up in papers and journal articles I have read. Paul agreed with me I think. The basic Li ion cell does not self discharge - none of them. Once charged they will just sit there and remain asis until something creates a circuit for the ions to migrate back to the positive electrode. I don't understand the mechanism for PbSO4, but they do discharge just sitting unattached to any circuit - all of them. What this says is if a cell is having ions migrate back to the positive electrode that something is wrong. There are all sorts of manufacturing defects that can cause it, or BMS deficiencies, etc. No amount of correction to a lead acid will stop it from discharging. If you tell me that your Thundersky cells shows a loss over time, I don't disbelieve that - I say instead, they needed more and better design work and some manufacturing improvement. There is some sort of fault causing an internal or external parasitic load. The prismatic, folded page cells, like CALB and TS are not very good in many respects, Some (all?) bolt the conductive plates onto an aluminum post with a threaded fastener
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I said it, because it has come up in papers and journal articles I have read. Paul agreed with me I think. The basic Li ion cell does not self discharge - none of them. Once charged they will just sit there and remain asis until something creates a circuit for the ions to migrate back to the positive electrode. I don't understand the mechanism for PbSO4, but they do discharge just sitting unattached to any circuit - all of them. What this says is if a cell is having ions migrate back to the positive electrode that something is wrong. There are all sorts of manufacturing defects that can cause it, or BMS deficiencies, etc. No amount of correction to a lead acid will stop it from discharging. If you tell me that your Thundersky cells shows a loss over time, I don't disbelieve that - I say instead, they needed more and better design work and some manufacturing improvement. There is some sort of fault causing an internal or external parasitic load. The prismatic, folded page cells, like CALB and TS are not very good in many respects, Some (all?) bolt the conductive plates onto an aluminum post with a threaded fastener. Bleh. Notice that folks like Tesla did not choose that form - even though the alternative was to make individual connections to 7000 smalls to accomplish the task. Those little cylindrical cells have some advantages. They lend themselves to very automated, read consistent, construction. Consistency is very important at the pack level. The cylindrical form is much more stable when subjected to the volumetric changes that Li ion cells undergo when charging and discharging. They can't be packed too close that they cannot convect heat well (with some extra gear to puch air (or other fluids around them). Internally the cylindrical cells are simpler with less opportunity for failure. The connection to a pack by welding is as good as it gets. And so on. I am pretty sure in that video by Jeff Dahn I keep alluding to (and linking) he mentions this characteristic of Li ion cells. Did you all notice that article Bruce linked to about Tesla funding research at the Dahn Lab? I am hoing the Tesla will make these results open to all as they have so many other things in the interest of furthering the use of EVs. Look forward for new information, rather than back to the old and less well done research. Stuff we read from 2009 is quite stale WRT Li cells. Mike On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 1:15 PM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 06/19/2015 11:58 AM, Ben Goren wrote: On Jun 19, 2015, at 9:33 AM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. His methodology is inadequate to the task -- rather like using a roadside truck scale to weigh the first four people to pass by and concluding that all humans weigh exactly 200 pounds. You may be implying that Paul attempted to deduce self discharge from cell voltage? When my first lithium pack was new, I was frequently amazed that NUMEROUS EV folks with extensive lead experience would put a volt meter to my cells and proclaim: Why these cells are PERFECTLY balanced! I don't know how many times I've attempted to explain that it is almost impossible to determine state of charge from voltage on lithium cells. Other than at the tails, of course. Though I don't know that Paul made that mistake. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought. *Warren Buffet* Michael E. Ross (919) 585-6737 Land (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone (919) 631-1451 Cell michael.e.r...@gmail.com michael.e.r...@gmail.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150619/a90c49e5/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I said it, because it has come up in papers and journal articles I have read. Paul agreed with me I think. The basic Li ion cell does not self discharge - none of them. Once charged they will just sit there and remain asis until something creates a circuit for the ions to migrate back to the positive electrode. I don't understand the mechanism for PbSO4, but they do discharge just sitting unattached to any circuit - all of them. What this says is if a cell is having ions migrate back to the positive electrode that something is wrong. There are all sorts of manufacturing defects that can cause it, or BMS deficiencies, etc. No amount of correction to a lead acid will stop it from discharging. If you tell me that your Thundersky cells shows a loss over time, I don't disbelieve that - I say instead, they needed more and better design work and some manufacturing improvement. There is some sort of fault causing an internal or external parasitic load. The prismatic, folded page cells, like CALB and TS are not very good in many respects, Some (all?) bolt the conductive plates onto an aluminum post with a threaded fastener. Bleh. Notice that folks like Tesla did not choose that form - even though the alternative was to make individual connections to 7000 smalls to accomplish the task. Those little cylindrical cells have some advantages. They lend themselves to very automated, read consistent, construction. Consistency is very important at the pack level. The cylindrical form is much more stable when subjected to the volumetric changes that Li ion cells undergo when charging and discharging. They can't be packed too close that they cannot convect heat well (with some extra gear to puch air (or other fluids around them). Internally the cylindrical cells are simpler with less opportunity for failure. The connection to a pack by welding is as good as it gets. And so on. I am pretty sure in that video by Jeff Dahn I keep alluding to (and linking) he mentions this characteristic of Li ion cells. Did you all notice that article Bruce linked to about Tesla funding research at the Dahn Lab? I am hoing the Tesla will make these results open to all as they have so many other things in the interest of furthering the use of EVs. Look forward for new information, rather than back to the old and less well done research. Stuff we read from 2009 is quite stale WRT Li cells. Mike On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 1:15 PM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 06/19/2015 11:58 AM, Ben Goren wrote: On Jun 19, 2015, at 9:33 AM, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: I am curious as to how Paul came to his belief. His methodology is inadequate to the task -- rather like using a roadside truck scale to weigh the first four people to pass by and concluding that all humans weigh exactly 200 pounds. You may be implying that Paul attempted to deduce self discharge from cell voltage? When my first lithium pack was new, I was frequently amazed that NUMEROUS EV folks with extensive lead experience would put a volt meter to my cells and proclaim: Why these cells are PERFECTLY balanced! I don't know how many times I've attempted to explain that it is almost impossible to determine state of charge from voltage on lithium cells. Other than at the tails, of course. Though I don't know that Paul made that mistake. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought. *Warren Buffet* Michael E. Ross (919) 585-6737 Land (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone (919) 631-1451 Cell michael.e.r...@gmail.com michael.e.r...@gmail.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150619/a90c49e5/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Michael, I think you are starting to get it, even though you express it in a peculiar way. In real life, nothing is 100% pure. Every material and every surface has *some* contamination, even in a clean room. They just make sure that what is still there is small enough or in low enough numbers that it does not really hurt their yield, but they still need to test every circuit since it still may be unacceptably damaged by the unavoidable contamination. Same in battery manufacturing - it only needs to be clean enough that the effect introduced by contamination is low enough not to harm the operation of the cell and for example the self-discharge is within specification. Have you ever seen a modern cell manufacturing facility? It is almost as good as a clean room just as all modern electronics production is done in very clean environment just to avoid failures. I do not know enough about the chemistry of the battery physics to judge if there is an inherent mechanism of self-discharge. I do know that a lot of battery parameters are a trade-off, for example you can buy batteries with higher power but with lower capacity or you can buy higher capacity with lower power (in the same form factor). Similar trade-offs exist between high and low temp operation. It may be that the basic chemical reaction does not have a self-discharge mechanism and that a theoretical perfect Li-Ion cell has no self-discharge. But that is the same as saying that a theoretical perfectly sealed ICE engine does not need new motor oil ever, because it does not leak. Still I check my oil level from time to time, even though I know that it does not leak now, I could be losing oil and damage the engine if I do not keep an eye on the level once in a while. The well-documented laptop Lithium battery fires were actually attributed to excessive contamination of battery cells during production, which could even cause short circuits in the cells and thermal runaway around those (large) contaminations. So - the result of this is that no matter how good manufactured, any Li-Ion cell will have some self-discharge. High quality cells will have lower numbers than more sloppy produced cells and variation of self-discharge will also be an indication of quality and consistency of the manufacturing process, but saying that there is no such thing while everyone who is working with batteries tells you that it does exist is, well, denying reality. Hope this clarifies, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Michael Ross via EV Sent: Friday, June 19, 2015 11:34 AM To: Willie2; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I said it, because it has come up in papers and journal articles I have read. Paul agreed with me I think. The basic Li ion cell does not self discharge - none of them. Once charged they will just sit there and remain asis until something creates a circuit for the ions to migrate back to the positive electrode. I don't understand the mechanism for PbSO4, but they do discharge just sitting unattached to any circuit - all of them. What this says is if a cell is having ions migrate back to the positive electrode that something is wrong. There are all sorts of manufacturing defects that can cause it, or BMS deficiencies, etc. No amount of correction to a lead acid will stop it from discharging. If you tell me that your Thundersky cells shows a loss over time, I don't disbelieve that - I say instead, they needed more and better design work and some manufacturing improvement. There is some sort of fault causing an internal or external parasitic load. The prismatic, folded page cells, like CALB and TS are not very good in many respects, Some (all?) bolt the conductive plates onto an aluminum post with a threaded fastener. Bleh. Notice that folks like Tesla did not choose that form - even though the alternative was to make individual connections to 7000 smalls to accomplish the task. Those little cylindrical cells have some advantages. They lend themselves to very automated, read consistent, construction. Consistency is very important at the pack level. The cylindrical form is much more stable when subjected to the volumetric changes that Li ion cells undergo when charging and discharging. They can't be packed too close that they cannot convect heat well (with some extra gear to puch air (or other fluids around them). Internally
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
David Nelson via EV wrote: That is a reason I don't use a cell level BMS. With a cell level BMS like the miniBMS there is a constant drain on the cells running the BMS boards and it is nearly impossible to make sure that each board uses the _exact_ same current regardless of voltage in the cell. Furthermore, boards like the miniBMS expect that you will balance at the end of every charge and last I saw, that balance voltage was at 3.6V or so which is over the theoretical 100% SOC level for LiFePO4 cells which leads to potential overcharging of the cells on every charge cycle. If you stop charging without the balancing taking place and/or let the pack sit for extended periods of time then the different current draw of each board working 24/7 introduces an imbalance in the SOC of the cells in the pack. Yes, this is a problem in the BMS market. Like quack medicine, it's full of customers worried about a problem that they don't understand very well. So there are marketeers only too happy to throw together some piece of junk that purports to solve it. It doesn't have to actually work -- it only needs to *sound* like it works, to separate the customer from his money. So some BMS work -- and some don't. The bad ones are so bad that they give the whoel BMS market a bad name. I've written about this over and over... check my old posts. It mostly seems to be of no avail, so I won't repeat myself again. Anything I say is overwhelmed by the noise of the internet. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Excerpt:In theory, all batteries are identical. If wired in series, you would therefore expect them all to charge and discharge equally. But in practice, there are differences. New batteries that are all the same brand, same model, same date code (and without lemons or quality control defects) will still have small differences. Each cell 's self-discharge rate, amphour capacity, internal resistance, and charge/discharge efficiency will be slightly different. This makes them drift to different states of charge. For example, cells with a higher self-discharge rate run down faster just from sitting. Cells with a lower amphour capacity get more deeply discharged on each cycle, which lowers their efficiency (so they need a bit more current to fully recharge). Cells with a higher internal resistance run a little hotter, which affects their efficiency and self-discharge rate. These differences tend to get larger over time. If not corrected, you can have a pack with some cells almost full, and some almost empty! Ok, here's the deal this is fiction. Self discharge is so low (milivolts over years) as to be non-existant.Secondly, if they are in series then all current passing through cells is equal. It is impossible to draw more current from one cell than another in a series pack. It can short and pass all current or it can open and pass no current but it cannot discharge faster or slower. If it has higher resistance then it will cause cells to heat faster that is all. Please show evidence that your theory is possible. The only person I spoke with having issues with new cells is when they were placed in parallel with old cells. In that case the wires melted because the new cell was handling more of the current. You may damage cells if there is a big difference in resistance only if you exceed the max current draw from the cell. If one never approaches the max current draw this will not be an issue. From: Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 10:53 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery Paul Dove via EV wrote: That was a very good summary. Cell balancing is something that was done with other chemistry a and many have tried to apply it to Li Ion chemistries but it doesn't work with Lithium since cells do self discharge or drift. If one wanted to balance them it has to be done below 3.38 volts otherwise you are still charging the cell. Thanks for your input. Lithiums need balancing even more than other chemistries! You can only get by without a BMS if the cells are so well matched that they accidentally stay in balance. (Do you feel lucky?) Look at my own balancer at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/balancer.htm I built it to *use*, not to sell. It doesn't load the cells, or clamp the voltage at some arbitrary level, and doesn't have failure modes that murder cells. It basically does what you would do yourself, if you had the time and inclination. It measures the voltage of every cell, and charges the ones that are low. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150618/dc23c230/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Paul Dove via EV wrote: That was a very good summary. Cell balancing is something that was done with other chemistry a and many have tried to apply it to Li Ion chemistries but it doesn't work with Lithium since cells do self discharge or drift. If one wanted to balance them it has to be done below 3.38 volts otherwise you are still charging the cell. Thanks for your input. Lithiums need balancing even more than other chemistries! You can only get by without a BMS if the cells are so well matched that they accidentally stay in balance. (Do you feel lucky?) Look at my own balancer at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/balancer.htm I built it to *use*, not to sell. It doesn't load the cells, or clamp the voltage at some arbitrary level, and doesn't have failure modes that murder cells. It basically does what you would do yourself, if you had the time and inclination. It measures the voltage of every cell, and charges the ones that are low. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
This is why I have my lead cobalt cells or Li Ion pre balance at the factory. Its seems they do that any more unless you double the cost of the cell. When I received my new Li Ion cells from Nissan, all of them read between 4.0 to 4.01 volt! It was about three weeks before I had them install, So I connected them all in parallel which acted like one big cell at 4.0 volts which kept them equalized. When I was running a military battery shop, we use this same method for the Ni Cad aircraft cells. I am using the Orion BMS which you can see the data from there manual at OrionBMS.com Roland - Original Message - From: Lee Hart via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org To: Electric Vehicle Discussion Listmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery David Nelson via EV wrote: That is a reason I don't use a cell level BMS. With a cell level BMS like the miniBMS there is a constant drain on the cells running the BMS boards and it is nearly impossible to make sure that each board uses the _exact_ same current regardless of voltage in the cell. Furthermore, boards like the miniBMS expect that you will balance at the end of every charge and last I saw, that balance voltage was at 3.6V or so which is over the theoretical 100% SOC level for LiFePO4 cells which leads to potential overcharging of the cells on every charge cycle. If you stop charging without the balancing taking place and/or let the pack sit for extended periods of time then the different current draw of each board working 24/7 introduces an imbalance in the SOC of the cells in the pack. Yes, this is a problem in the BMS market. Like quack medicine, it's full of customers worried about a problem that they don't understand very well. So there are marketeers only too happy to throw together some piece of junk that purports to solve it. It doesn't have to actually work -- it only needs to *sound* like it works, to separate the customer from his money. So some BMS work -- and some don't. The bad ones are so bad that they give the whoel BMS market a bad name. I've written about this over and over... check my old posts. It mostly seems to be of no avail, so I won't repeat myself again. Anything I say is overwhelmed by the noise of the internet. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.comhttp://www.sunrise-ev.com/ ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usubhttp://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.orghttp://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRAhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150618/cd4318c8/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I would be very surprised if DeWalt does not have a BMS on their Lithium packs, all power tool packs with Lithium that I have opened always come with a BMS which both checks every cell and turns off any current flow above max and under min voltage levels. I agree that if you let LiFePO4 sit at 3.6V for a while, you are over-charging because you chose the wrong voltage level for your BMS, how is that the fault of the circuit? It is a design error. If you want to properly shunt LiFePO4 cells you should do so while keeping them at about 3.4V since there is almost no capacity above that voltage anyway. Oh and shunting should be a relatively short process: burn away the differences (the delta in the small self-discharge between cells) and as soon as all cells are at shunting level, the charging is disconnected and all cells can float to their resting voltage. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: Paul Dove [mailto:dov...@bellsouth.net] Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 6:28 PM To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I did not say it was impossible. As long as you stay below the open circuit voltage it's possible. However, if you hold the voltage at 3.6 for LiFePO4 while shunting the current you will still be charging the cell. In essence all you are doing is modifying the charge procedure and loosing track of actual charge time. CC CV charging dictates holding the voltage and tapering the current which is not achieved in this scenario. I said its unnecessary. I am not really concerned about what engineers are doing in commercial products it's clear from the laptop fires the airplane fires the car fires etc. that there is still a lot of false beliefs about these cells. I know dewalt bottom balances their battery and has no cell BMS Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 1:43 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, How familiar are you with electronics? My wife's eBike has a nice pack with a built-in BMS that simply starts shunting current above a certain voltage and presumably (but I can't verify) also reduces charging current, so you can take care that the shunting cells are receiving zero current and no longer rise in voltage. The trick is to find a good voltage at which your BMS will protect the cells. That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of paul dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:40 AM To: Lee Hart; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery No one has convinced me that top balancing is even possible much less that a BMS can achieve this. If you hold a cell above the Open circuit voltage you are charging it even if you are trying to shunt the current with a Mosfet From: Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery David Nelson via EV wrote: That is a reason I don't use a cell level BMS. With a cell level BMS like the miniBMS there is a constant drain on the cells running the BMS boards and it is nearly impossible to make sure that each board uses the _exact_ same current regardless of voltage in the cell. Furthermore, boards like the miniBMS expect that you will balance at the end of every charge and last I saw, that balance voltage was at 3.6V or so which is over the theoretical 100% SOC level for LiFePO4 cells which leads to potential overcharging of the cells on every charge cycle. If you stop charging without the balancing taking place and/or let the pack sit for extended periods of time then the different current draw of each board working 24/7 introduces an imbalance in the SOC of the cells
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
A question for Paul DOve, Whence came your evidence of self discharging in Li ion cells? I have the other impression entirely - that there is no mechanism by which self discharge is even possible. If cells are mismatched in a pack there can be an accumulation of drift relative to other cells in a pack (which can cause problems), parallele cells will equilibrate among themselves (why you want them to be closely matched) BMS and other electrical/electronic equipment can produce a parasitic load across a pack, but a charged cell sitting alone on a shelf does not lose charge. It's capacity can decrease so that subsequent performance is less good, but there is no self discharge. Mike On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:59 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, I presume you never ride in a car, because Ford's Pinto was a bomb on wheels and unsafe at any speed. Your line of reasoning does not warrant a serious response and I have given many reasons why a BMS is a good thing - I like to discuss based on arguments and data, not on lore and incidents. BTW, last I heard the root cause of the dreamliner fires is still unknown, there is suspicion about the quality of the batteries, similar to what caused laptop batteries to catch fire due to impurities embedded in the cells and trigger thermal runaway. I have helped to investigate a fire in a converted EV with Lithium-Ion prismatic cells that I suspect (but it was never conclusively proven) was caused by manufacturing defects. There was no BMS on that pack and it was not being charged, still it caught fire just sitting. One thing that I found was that what appeared to be a hotspot also showed severely deformed (folded crooked as if they were rammed into the prismatic case) cell plates (the original pouches that are contained in a bundle inside the prismatic cell) in one of the cells. But you can't say they used a BMS so that caused the fire. If you have a source that proves that it was in fact the BMS causing the fire then I would be interested in a link. Here is what I have: http://arstechnica.com/business/2013/02/investigation-reveals-cause-of-battery-fire-on-boeing-787-dreamliner/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing_787_Dreamliner_battery_problems http://www.ifsecglobal.com/dreamliner-lithium-battery-fire-cause-still-unknown/ Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Paul Dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 6:31 PM To: EVDL Administrator; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery Even Boeing burned up dream liners with a BMS. Got any other argument besides everyone is doing it? Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 2:02 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 18 Jun 2015 at 11:43, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. One more time. There is a really good reason that the only place you find aversion to BMSes is among EV hobbyists. Real world electronics manufacturers -- the ones who build millions of laptops, mobile phones, power tools and yes, commercial EVs -- know that you don't sell a product with a lithium battery unless it has ample smarts to protect the battery, the user, and the manufacturer. Trust me, these guys have bean counters looking over their shoulders. They wouldn't be using BMSes if they weren't necessary. BMSes protect the battery from early failure, the user from hazard to life and limb, and the manufacturer from the lawyers! David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Paul, the 29.6V is not the max charge voltage of the pack. It is the nominal voltage: 8 x 3.7V (these were Cobalt cells) = 29.6V So the max 32V on the bus is actually only 4V per cell and that means that they keep those cells below max charge voltage of 4.2V So, it was not possible that the battery was over-charged, unless a cell shorted and the 32V was applied to 7 cells in series instead of 8! Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Paul Dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 8:21 PM To: Cor van de Water via EV Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery We already covered how to tell is a cell has internal defects. You drain the cell to 2.5 volts and then if the cell voltage rises it's good if it keeps falling don't use it. I did think this up This is what NASA does. I read it in one of their presentations. I can dig it up if you like. As for the Dreamliner I followed that carefully. My favorite chart that they presented to the FAA said - the only thing that causes lithium battery fires is overchargeing - we can find no evidence we are over charging - therefore the cause of the fire is unknown One of those statements has to be wrong. And the fire was the evidence of overcharging. The open circuit voltage of their battery was 29.6 volts. The system voltage was 32 volts. They were charging the cells the whole time the APU was running and wondering why it burned. As for laptops they were overcharging as well. The paper I read the designer claimed that leaving a small amount of current flowing or trickle charge as they call it would not hurt lithium batteries. Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 9:59 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: This message has no content. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150618/c4bcfdcb/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
We already covered how to tell is a cell has internal defects. You drain the cell to 2.5 volts and then if the cell voltage rises it's good if it keeps falling don't use it. I did think this up This is what NASA does. I read it in one of their presentations. I can dig it up if you like. As for the Dreamliner I followed that carefully. My favorite chart that they presented to the FAA said - the only thing that causes lithium battery fires is overchargeing - we can find no evidence we are over charging - therefore the cause of the fire is unknown One of those statements has to be wrong. And the fire was the evidence of overcharging. The open circuit voltage of their battery was 29.6 volts. The system voltage was 32 volts. They were charging the cells the whole time the APU was running and wondering why it burned. As for laptops they were overcharging as well. The paper I read the designer claimed that leaving a small amount of current flowing or trickle charge as they call it would not hurt lithium batteries. Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 9:59 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: This message has no content. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150618/c4bcfdcb/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I have Lithium cells (CALB 180Ah) sitting in my garage since 1.5 years and have measured their self-discharge and plotted it in an Excel spreadsheet. I can *see* their self-discharge. I can *see* effect from ambient temperature on the change in self-discharge rate over time I can *see* the differences of up to a factor 2 in amount of self-discharge between cells that were initially charged to exact same state of charge (charged in parallel, then left for many days connected together in parallel, then disconnected all cells from each other and with every cell unconnected to anything, take a measurement with a DVM once every few days for a couple months.) If you did this, you would be able to tell as well. Besides - the resident Lithium expert on this forum (who has helped to setup a Lithium-Ion cell factory) tells us that there is self-discharge, so I am seriously wondering why you continue to argue that self-discharge does not exist??? As for failures without BMS: Yes, I have helped investigate a burned-down conversion that did not have BMS. It is likely that in that case, a manufacturing defect in the cell was the root cause because the fire started at a moment that the pack was not connected: not charging, not discharging, just sitting there. There is a small chance that it was something that fell *on* the pack but since nobody was present at the time that the fire started, that is unlikely. I discovered that there was an anomaly in the layout (folded layers of some of the pouch cells inside the prismatic case) that is the likely start of the problem - a workmanship problem. But also that was never proven just like the fire with the Dreamliner which was never pinpointed to a root cause. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Paul Dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 8:23 PM To: Michael Ross; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I agree with that. Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 10:12 PM, Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: A question for Paul DOve, Whence came your evidence of self discharging in Li ion cells? I have the other impression entirely - that there is no mechanism by which self discharge is even possible. If cells are mismatched in a pack there can be an accumulation of drift relative to other cells in a pack (which can cause problems), parallele cells will equilibrate among themselves (why you want them to be closely matched) BMS and other electrical/electronic equipment can produce a parasitic load across a pack, but a charged cell sitting alone on a shelf does not lose charge. It's capacity can decrease so that subsequent performance is less good, but there is no self discharge. Mike On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:59 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, I presume you never ride in a car, because Ford's Pinto was a bomb on wheels and unsafe at any speed. Your line of reasoning does not warrant a serious response and I have given many reasons why a BMS is a good thing - I like to discuss based on arguments and data, not on lore and incidents. BTW, last I heard the root cause of the dreamliner fires is still unknown, there is suspicion about the quality of the batteries, similar to what caused laptop batteries to catch fire due to impurities embedded in the cells and trigger thermal runaway. I have helped to investigate a fire in a converted EV with Lithium-Ion prismatic cells that I suspect (but it was never conclusively proven) was caused by manufacturing defects. There was no BMS on that pack and it was not being charged, still it caught fire just sitting. One thing that I found was that what appeared to be a hotspot also showed severely deformed (folded crooked as if they were rammed into the prismatic case) cell plates (the original pouches that are contained in a bundle inside the prismatic cell) in one of the cells. But you can't say they used a BMS so that caused the fire. If you have a source that proves that it was in fact the BMS causing the fire then I would be interested in a link. Here is what I have: http://arstechnica.com/business/2013/02/investigation-reveals-cause-o f-battery-fire-on-boeing-787-dreamliner/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing_787_Dreamliner_battery_problems http://www.ifsecglobal.com/dreamliner-lithium-battery-fire-cause-stil l-unknown/ Regards
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I agree with that. Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 10:12 PM, Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: A question for Paul DOve, Whence came your evidence of self discharging in Li ion cells? I have the other impression entirely - that there is no mechanism by which self discharge is even possible. If cells are mismatched in a pack there can be an accumulation of drift relative to other cells in a pack (which can cause problems), parallele cells will equilibrate among themselves (why you want them to be closely matched) BMS and other electrical/electronic equipment can produce a parasitic load across a pack, but a charged cell sitting alone on a shelf does not lose charge. It's capacity can decrease so that subsequent performance is less good, but there is no self discharge. Mike On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:59 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, I presume you never ride in a car, because Ford's Pinto was a bomb on wheels and unsafe at any speed. Your line of reasoning does not warrant a serious response and I have given many reasons why a BMS is a good thing - I like to discuss based on arguments and data, not on lore and incidents. BTW, last I heard the root cause of the dreamliner fires is still unknown, there is suspicion about the quality of the batteries, similar to what caused laptop batteries to catch fire due to impurities embedded in the cells and trigger thermal runaway. I have helped to investigate a fire in a converted EV with Lithium-Ion prismatic cells that I suspect (but it was never conclusively proven) was caused by manufacturing defects. There was no BMS on that pack and it was not being charged, still it caught fire just sitting. One thing that I found was that what appeared to be a hotspot also showed severely deformed (folded crooked as if they were rammed into the prismatic case) cell plates (the original pouches that are contained in a bundle inside the prismatic cell) in one of the cells. But you can't say they used a BMS so that caused the fire. If you have a source that proves that it was in fact the BMS causing the fire then I would be interested in a link. Here is what I have: http://arstechnica.com/business/2013/02/investigation-reveals-cause-of-battery-fire-on-boeing-787-dreamliner/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing_787_Dreamliner_battery_problems http://www.ifsecglobal.com/dreamliner-lithium-battery-fire-cause-still-unknown/ Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Paul Dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 6:31 PM To: EVDL Administrator; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery Even Boeing burned up dream liners with a BMS. Got any other argument besides everyone is doing it? Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 2:02 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 18 Jun 2015 at 11:43, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. One more time. There is a really good reason that the only place you find aversion to BMSes is among EV hobbyists. Real world electronics manufacturers -- the ones who build millions of laptops, mobile phones, power tools and yes, commercial EVs -- know that you don't sell a product with a lithium battery unless it has ample smarts to protect the battery, the user, and the manufacturer. Trust me, these guys have bean counters looking over their shoulders. They wouldn't be using BMSes if they weren't necessary. BMSes protect the battery from early failure, the user from hazard to life and limb, and the manufacturer from the lawyers! David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I did not say it was impossible. As long as you stay below the open circuit voltage it's possible. However, if you hold the voltage at 3.6 for LiFePO4 while shunting the current you will still be charging the cell. In essence all you are doing is modifying the charge procedure and loosing track of actual charge time. CC CV charging dictates holding the voltage and tapering the current which is not achieved in this scenario. I said its unnecessary. I am not really concerned about what engineers are doing in commercial products it's clear from the laptop fires the airplane fires the car fires etc. that there is still a lot of false beliefs about these cells. I know dewalt bottom balances their battery and has no cell BMS Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 1:43 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, How familiar are you with electronics? My wife's eBike has a nice pack with a built-in BMS that simply starts shunting current above a certain voltage and presumably (but I can't verify) also reduces charging current, so you can take care that the shunting cells are receiving zero current and no longer rise in voltage. The trick is to find a good voltage at which your BMS will protect the cells. That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of paul dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:40 AM To: Lee Hart; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery No one has convinced me that top balancing is even possible much less that a BMS can achieve this. If you hold a cell above the Open circuit voltage you are charging it even if you are trying to shunt the current with a Mosfet From: Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery David Nelson via EV wrote: That is a reason I don't use a cell level BMS. With a cell level BMS like the miniBMS there is a constant drain on the cells running the BMS boards and it is nearly impossible to make sure that each board uses the _exact_ same current regardless of voltage in the cell. Furthermore, boards like the miniBMS expect that you will balance at the end of every charge and last I saw, that balance voltage was at 3.6V or so which is over the theoretical 100% SOC level for LiFePO4 cells which leads to potential overcharging of the cells on every charge cycle. If you stop charging without the balancing taking place and/or let the pack sit for extended periods of time then the different current draw of each board working 24/7 introduces an imbalance in the SOC of the cells in the pack. Yes, this is a problem in the BMS market. Like quack medicine, it's full of customers worried about a problem that they don't understand very well. So there are marketeers only too happy to throw together some piece of junk that purports to solve it. It doesn't have to actually work -- it only needs to *sound* like it works, to separate the customer from his money. So some BMS work -- and some don't. The bad ones are so bad that they give the whoel BMS market a bad name. I've written about this over and over... check my old posts. It mostly seems to be of no avail, so I won't repeat myself again. Anything I say is overwhelmed by the noise of the internet. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150618/9258c414/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Even Boeing burned up dream liners with a BMS. Got any other argument besides everyone is doing it? Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 2:02 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 18 Jun 2015 at 11:43, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. One more time. There is a really good reason that the only place you find aversion to BMSes is among EV hobbyists. Real world electronics manufacturers -- the ones who build millions of laptops, mobile phones, power tools and yes, commercial EVs -- know that you don't sell a product with a lithium battery unless it has ample smarts to protect the battery, the user, and the manufacturer. Trust me, these guys have bean counters looking over their shoulders. They wouldn't be using BMSes if they weren't necessary. BMSes protect the battery from early failure, the user from hazard to life and limb, and the manufacturer from the lawyers! David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Paul, I presume you never ride in a car, because Ford's Pinto was a bomb on wheels and unsafe at any speed. Your line of reasoning does not warrant a serious response and I have given many reasons why a BMS is a good thing - I like to discuss based on arguments and data, not on lore and incidents. BTW, last I heard the root cause of the dreamliner fires is still unknown, there is suspicion about the quality of the batteries, similar to what caused laptop batteries to catch fire due to impurities embedded in the cells and trigger thermal runaway. I have helped to investigate a fire in a converted EV with Lithium-Ion prismatic cells that I suspect (but it was never conclusively proven) was caused by manufacturing defects. There was no BMS on that pack and it was not being charged, still it caught fire just sitting. One thing that I found was that what appeared to be a hotspot also showed severely deformed (folded crooked as if they were rammed into the prismatic case) cell plates (the original pouches that are contained in a bundle inside the prismatic cell) in one of the cells. But you can't say they used a BMS so that caused the fire. If you have a source that proves that it was in fact the BMS causing the fire then I would be interested in a link. Here is what I have: http://arstechnica.com/business/2013/02/investigation-reveals-cause-of-battery-fire-on-boeing-787-dreamliner/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing_787_Dreamliner_battery_problems http://www.ifsecglobal.com/dreamliner-lithium-battery-fire-cause-still-unknown/ Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Paul Dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 6:31 PM To: EVDL Administrator; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery Even Boeing burned up dream liners with a BMS. Got any other argument besides everyone is doing it? Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 2:02 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 18 Jun 2015 at 11:43, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. One more time. There is a really good reason that the only place you find aversion to BMSes is among EV hobbyists. Real world electronics manufacturers -- the ones who build millions of laptops, mobile phones, power tools and yes, commercial EVs -- know that you don't sell a product with a lithium battery unless it has ample smarts to protect the battery, the user, and the manufacturer. Trust me, these guys have bean counters looking over their shoulders. They wouldn't be using BMSes if they weren't necessary. BMSes protect the battery from early failure, the user from hazard to life and limb, and the manufacturer from the lawyers! David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
We are not speaking of commercial products. At least I wasn't we are talking about our own conversion and the pros and cons of a BMS. I wasn't lucky. My pack is the same voltage after charger to two decimal places. I simply look at the voltage when I unplug the charger. Only overcharging causes fires. And then not as likely with LiFePO4. We took a full cell and put 60 amps in it for three hours and all it did was vent and melt the plastic around the terminal. $125 cell was much cheaper than a BMS. I have had no issues since and it's been 18 months now. The pack is the same voltage after every charge. If I was using one of the other two types of cells maybe I would consider it but I doubt it. I would have to play with those cells some to see how they react. I design electric circuits for a living and I trust the battery much more than the circuit. These batteries are very stable. All the cars I have seen that burned had a BMS. I have heard of no one without a BMS burning down a car. Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2015, at 2:58 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, In your case, *you* were the BMS. But you were lucky that you noticed the lower end voltage and knew something was off. You were lucky that the charger finished charging without cooking the other cells to death You were lucky that the bad cell was a short and not a partial failure or you might not have detected it in time or faced a much more severe situation than a shorted cell. Anyone less knowledgeable than you about your EV (and that would be 99+ percent of all drivers) would not have caught this failure and continued until disaster, so your vehicle can be used by you alone, because you are an essential part of that vehicle! (namely, the BMS) It looks like you just confirmed the thing that you tried to disprove... Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: Paul Dove [mailto:dov...@bellsouth.net] Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 11:13 AM To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I had this issue early on in my vehicle and at the end of charge my pack voltage reflected this and I removed the bad cell. The cell was shorted but the rest of the pack was fine. I have no cell monitoring. Pretty sure it was caused by a loose connection. That said, apart from expense I have no problem with a BAttery Monitor that looks at every cell but prismatic cells have multiple cells in them in parallel so you can't monitor them individually. Still of the opinion it is an unnecessary expense. You haven't convinced me that cell discharge or drift between SOC is a real issue. I cat see it ever being an issue. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 18, 2015, at 12:44 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, It is true that in series string the same *load* current goes through all cells, but the principle of self-discharge is that it occurs internal to the cell, so it is invisible to the outside world except when you measure each cell (or blow them up due to overcharge or under-discharge). I have actually measured cells and seen the self-discharge. As you say, it is a small effect in good cells. But still, there is about 1:2 difference in self-discharge between the cells I monitor and the differences add up over time. It might not be a problem in the first year or even in the second. Then in the 3rd year you try to squeeze an 85 or 90% discharge from the cells and boom - one reverses (or more) and it is destroyed and you might only find out from the fireworks when you try to charge it the next cycle or when you drive it. Oh BTW - one reason to monitor *all* and *every* cell is exactly the issue with the infamous bottom-balancing without BMS approach: Some of the cells that I have were abused and too deeply discharged. Guess what happens? They become a resistor. Some are low resistance which is OK when they resemble a wire, others are still in doubt whether they want to become a piece of wire or rather a heating element. This has at least 2 disastrous effects if you do not detect this immediately: 1. The pack voltage has dropped and each cell now gets a much higher finish charging so you might have been charging conservatively with all cells in the string, but with some cells removed, all the rest is dividing up the difference and may easily be charged to destruction now! 2
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Paul, How familiar are you with electronics? My wife's eBike has a nice pack with a built-in BMS that simply starts shunting current above a certain voltage and presumably (but I can't verify) also reduces charging current, so you can take care that the shunting cells are receiving zero current and no longer rise in voltage. The trick is to find a good voltage at which your BMS will protect the cells. That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of paul dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:40 AM To: Lee Hart; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery No one has convinced me that top balancing is even possible much less that a BMS can achieve this. If you hold a cell above the Open circuit voltage you are charging it even if you are trying to shunt the current with a Mosfet From: Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery David Nelson via EV wrote: That is a reason I don't use a cell level BMS. With a cell level BMS like the miniBMS there is a constant drain on the cells running the BMS boards and it is nearly impossible to make sure that each board uses the _exact_ same current regardless of voltage in the cell. Furthermore, boards like the miniBMS expect that you will balance at the end of every charge and last I saw, that balance voltage was at 3.6V or so which is over the theoretical 100% SOC level for LiFePO4 cells which leads to potential overcharging of the cells on every charge cycle. If you stop charging without the balancing taking place and/or let the pack sit for extended periods of time then the different current draw of each board working 24/7 introduces an imbalance in the SOC of the cells in the pack. Yes, this is a problem in the BMS market. Like quack medicine, it's full of customers worried about a problem that they don't understand very well. So there are marketeers only too happy to throw together some piece of junk that purports to solve it. It doesn't have to actually work -- it only needs to *sound* like it works, to separate the customer from his money. So some BMS work -- and some don't. The bad ones are so bad that they give the whoel BMS market a bad name. I've written about this over and over... check my old posts. It mostly seems to be of no avail, so I won't repeat myself again. Anything I say is overwhelmed by the noise of the internet. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150618/9258c414/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 18 Jun 2015 at 10:46, Lee Hart via EV wrote: I've written about this over and over... check my old posts. It mostly seems to be of no avail, so I won't repeat myself again. Anything I say is overwhelmed by the noise of the internet. Lee Hart is one of the EVDL stalwarts. He's been here longer than I have, and that's over 20 years now. Lee is a true scientist, an electronic engineer. He's thoughtful, deliberate, and focused. He's not averse to recent developments, he just evaluates them carefully rather than jumping on the bandwagon that younger engineers often join. He's not going to use a microprocessor where a relay works just fine. Lee doesn't speak very loudly, but he has more years of engineering and EV design and building than most of the net's rambling loudmouths put together. Lee beats any of them in battery research too. I'm not talking about anecodotal it works for me so far stuff, I'm talking about actual rigorous testing. You can get a taste for the battery work Lee does in his meager spare time here : http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2008/05/charge-keep Lee also has an extensive background in designing real world commercial products that MUST be safe and reliable and not catch fire. So pipe down for a minute, and LISTEN to Lee. He's offering you wisdom. This is gold, freely given. Don't let it pass you by. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I had this issue early on in my vehicle and at the end of charge my pack voltage reflected this and I removed the bad cell. The cell was shorted but the rest of the pack was fine. I have no cell monitoring. Pretty sure it was caused by a loose connection. That said, apart from expense I have no problem with a BAttery Monitor that looks at every cell but prismatic cells have multiple cells in them in parallel so you can't monitor them individually. Still of the opinion it is an unnecessary expense. You haven't convinced me that cell discharge or drift between SOC is a real issue. I cat see it ever being an issue. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 18, 2015, at 12:44 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, It is true that in series string the same *load* current goes through all cells, but the principle of self-discharge is that it occurs internal to the cell, so it is invisible to the outside world except when you measure each cell (or blow them up due to overcharge or under-discharge). I have actually measured cells and seen the self-discharge. As you say, it is a small effect in good cells. But still, there is about 1:2 difference in self-discharge between the cells I monitor and the differences add up over time. It might not be a problem in the first year or even in the second. Then in the 3rd year you try to squeeze an 85 or 90% discharge from the cells and boom - one reverses (or more) and it is destroyed and you might only find out from the fireworks when you try to charge it the next cycle or when you drive it. Oh BTW - one reason to monitor *all* and *every* cell is exactly the issue with the infamous bottom-balancing without BMS approach: Some of the cells that I have were abused and too deeply discharged. Guess what happens? They become a resistor. Some are low resistance which is OK when they resemble a wire, others are still in doubt whether they want to become a piece of wire or rather a heating element. This has at least 2 disastrous effects if you do not detect this immediately: 1. The pack voltage has dropped and each cell now gets a much higher finish charging so you might have been charging conservatively with all cells in the string, but with some cells removed, all the rest is dividing up the difference and may easily be charged to destruction now! 2. If charging does not harm the pack, what about discharging hundreds of Amps through a resistor that is nicely embedded in the pack, insulated from the outside by the cells around it? If it even drops 10V across it at hundreds of Amps, you now have a multi-kiloWatt heater inside your pack without much cooling. What do you think will happen? Just some easy illustration of the *need* for a cell-level BMS, from practice by measuring what happened to a used set of Lithiums (that indeed was run without BMS) and I have been monitoring since taking it out of service. Learn from it or get your own experience, your choice. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of paul dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:57 AM To: Lee Hart; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery Excerpt:In theory, all batteries are identical. If wired in series, you would therefore expect them all to charge and discharge equally. But in practice, there are differences. New batteries that are all the same brand, same model, same date code (and without lemons or quality control defects) will still have small differences. Each cell 's self-discharge rate, amphour capacity, internal resistance, and charge/discharge efficiency will be slightly different. This makes them drift to different states of charge. For example, cells with a higher self-discharge rate run down faster just from sitting. Cells with a lower amphour capacity get more deeply discharged on each cycle, which lowers their efficiency (so they need a bit more current to fully recharge). Cells with a higher internal resistance run a little hotter, which affects their efficiency and self-discharge rate. These differences tend to get larger over time. If not corrected, you can have a pack with some cells al most full, and some almost empty! Ok, here's the deal this is fiction. Self discharge is so low (milivolts over years) as to be non-existant.Secondly, if they are in series then all current passing through
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Paul, In your case, *you* were the BMS. But you were lucky that you noticed the lower end voltage and knew something was off. You were lucky that the charger finished charging without cooking the other cells to death You were lucky that the bad cell was a short and not a partial failure or you might not have detected it in time or faced a much more severe situation than a shorted cell. Anyone less knowledgeable than you about your EV (and that would be 99+ percent of all drivers) would not have caught this failure and continued until disaster, so your vehicle can be used by you alone, because you are an essential part of that vehicle! (namely, the BMS) It looks like you just confirmed the thing that you tried to disprove... Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: Paul Dove [mailto:dov...@bellsouth.net] Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 11:13 AM To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I had this issue early on in my vehicle and at the end of charge my pack voltage reflected this and I removed the bad cell. The cell was shorted but the rest of the pack was fine. I have no cell monitoring. Pretty sure it was caused by a loose connection. That said, apart from expense I have no problem with a BAttery Monitor that looks at every cell but prismatic cells have multiple cells in them in parallel so you can't monitor them individually. Still of the opinion it is an unnecessary expense. You haven't convinced me that cell discharge or drift between SOC is a real issue. I cat see it ever being an issue. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 18, 2015, at 12:44 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, It is true that in series string the same *load* current goes through all cells, but the principle of self-discharge is that it occurs internal to the cell, so it is invisible to the outside world except when you measure each cell (or blow them up due to overcharge or under-discharge). I have actually measured cells and seen the self-discharge. As you say, it is a small effect in good cells. But still, there is about 1:2 difference in self-discharge between the cells I monitor and the differences add up over time. It might not be a problem in the first year or even in the second. Then in the 3rd year you try to squeeze an 85 or 90% discharge from the cells and boom - one reverses (or more) and it is destroyed and you might only find out from the fireworks when you try to charge it the next cycle or when you drive it. Oh BTW - one reason to monitor *all* and *every* cell is exactly the issue with the infamous bottom-balancing without BMS approach: Some of the cells that I have were abused and too deeply discharged. Guess what happens? They become a resistor. Some are low resistance which is OK when they resemble a wire, others are still in doubt whether they want to become a piece of wire or rather a heating element. This has at least 2 disastrous effects if you do not detect this immediately: 1. The pack voltage has dropped and each cell now gets a much higher finish charging so you might have been charging conservatively with all cells in the string, but with some cells removed, all the rest is dividing up the difference and may easily be charged to destruction now! 2. If charging does not harm the pack, what about discharging hundreds of Amps through a resistor that is nicely embedded in the pack, insulated from the outside by the cells around it? If it even drops 10V across it at hundreds of Amps, you now have a multi-kiloWatt heater inside your pack without much cooling. What do you think will happen? Just some easy illustration of the *need* for a cell-level BMS, from practice by measuring what happened to a used set of Lithiums (that indeed was run without BMS) and I have been monitoring since taking it out of service. Learn from it or get your own experience, your choice. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 18 Jun 2015 at 11:43, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. One more time. There is a really good reason that the only place you find aversion to BMSes is among EV hobbyists. Real world electronics manufacturers -- the ones who build millions of laptops, mobile phones, power tools and yes, commercial EVs -- know that you don't sell a product with a lithium battery unless it has ample smarts to protect the battery, the user, and the manufacturer. Trust me, these guys have bean counters looking over their shoulders. They wouldn't be using BMSes if they weren't necessary. BMSes protect the battery from early failure, the user from hazard to life and limb, and the manufacturer from the lawyers! David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
The Lee Hart alternative of this solution is to have only a single pack, add a (very low current) tap in the center of the pack, connected to two super-bright LEDs mounted in a very visible place (on the dash right in front of you). Connect the two LEDs in anti-parallel so whichever direction there is more than about 2V difference, one of these LEDs will light up. Connect the other side of the 2 LEDs to a voltage divider that goes from pack+ to pack- and which in rest outputs the same voltage as at the tap. If you have an even number of cells/modules then this voltage divider is simply two identical resistors in series across the pack so the center point is at exactly half pack voltage. If you have an odd number, one of the two resistors needs to be a little bigger than the other (or use 2 in series or use a potmeter in between the two resistors so you can fine-tune the divider to be equal to the tap. Alternative could be a simple cheap zero-centered meter as often used in the current meters (can measure positive and negative) and place that instead of the two LEDs. Any imbalance between the two pack halves is indicated by the LEDs or this meter. Size the resistors so they allow for a small current, enough to light the LEDs or move the meter - you can easily test this by deliberately tapping the pack one cell too high/low and watching the result. for example, if you have a 120V pack then you will tap this at the 60V point and to get a 1mA through one of two red LEDs at that voltage when you have an (arbitrarily) 6V deviation between tap and the average of the pack, then you need a resistance divider of 10k + 10k Ohm. Note that this put a constant drain of 6mA on the pack - not a whole lot since it needs almost a week before it drains 1Ah, so even a moderate 100Ah pack would last almost 2 years from full to dead. But it is something to be aware of and disconnect when you store an EV. The approach with the needle meter is more sensitive since those typically have 100uA full scale so you would use at least 10 times bigger resistance value and this leads to 1/10th of the drain. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Sean Korb via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 1:41 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery This sub-subject gets done to death pretty regularly but I like gathering what I hear from both camps. Definitely going to use a BMS but I really like the non-BMS workaround of getting *two* expensive battery packs and using a really simple gauge that shows their comparative voltage. If one is sagging more than the other, pull over and find out what is wrong. If you have a smart BMS... it takes care of it for you until you can get home ;) sean On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, In your case, *you* were the BMS. But you were lucky that you noticed the lower end voltage and knew something was off. You were lucky that the charger finished charging without cooking the other cells to death You were lucky that the bad cell was a short and not a partial failure or you might not have detected it in time or faced a much more severe situation than a shorted cell. Anyone less knowledgeable than you about your EV (and that would be 99+ percent of all drivers) would not have caught this failure and continued until disaster, so your vehicle can be used by you alone, because you are an essential part of that vehicle! (namely, the BMS) It looks like you just confirmed the thing that you tried to disprove... Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: Paul Dove [mailto:dov...@bellsouth.net] Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 11:13 AM To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery I had this issue early on in my vehicle and at the end of charge my pack voltage reflected this and I removed the bad cell
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
That is Brilliant! I love living in the future :) And I love that my pack will cost somewhat less for the same KVA. On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 5:29 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: The Lee Hart alternative of this solution is to have only a single pack, add a (very low current) tap in the center of the pack, connected to two super-bright LEDs mounted in a very visible place (on the dash right in front of you). Connect the two LEDs in anti-parallel so whichever direction there is more than about 2V difference, one of these LEDs will light up. Connect the other side of the 2 LEDs to a voltage divider that goes from pack+ to pack- and which in rest outputs the same voltage as at the tap. If you have an even number of cells/modules then this voltage divider is simply two identical resistors in series across the pack so the center point is at exactly half pack voltage. If you have an odd number, one of the two resistors needs to be a little bigger than the other (or use 2 in series or use a potmeter in between the two resistors so you can fine-tune the divider to be equal to the tap. Alternative could be a simple cheap zero-centered meter as often used in the current meters (can measure positive and negative) and place that instead of the two LEDs. Any imbalance between the two pack halves is indicated by the LEDs or this meter. Size the resistors so they allow for a small current, enough to light the LEDs or move the meter - you can easily test this by deliberately tapping the pack one cell too high/low and watching the result. for example, if you have a 120V pack then you will tap this at the 60V point and to get a 1mA through one of two red LEDs at that voltage when you have an (arbitrarily) 6V deviation between tap and the average of the pack, then you need a resistance divider of 10k + 10k Ohm. Note that this put a constant drain of 6mA on the pack - not a whole lot since it needs almost a week before it drains 1Ah, so even a moderate 100Ah pack would last almost 2 years from full to dead. But it is something to be aware of and disconnect when you store an EV. The approach with the needle meter is more sensitive since those typically have 100uA full scale so you would use at least 10 times bigger resistance value and this leads to 1/10th of the drain. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Sean Korb via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 1:41 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery This sub-subject gets done to death pretty regularly but I like gathering what I hear from both camps. Definitely going to use a BMS but I really like the non-BMS workaround of getting *two* expensive battery packs and using a really simple gauge that shows their comparative voltage. If one is sagging more than the other, pull over and find out what is wrong. If you have a smart BMS... it takes care of it for you until you can get home ;) sean On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, In your case, *you* were the BMS. But you were lucky that you noticed the lower end voltage and knew something was off. You were lucky that the charger finished charging without cooking the other cells to death You were lucky that the bad cell was a short and not a partial failure or you might not have detected it in time or faced a much more severe situation than a shorted cell. Anyone less knowledgeable than you about your EV (and that would be 99+ percent of all drivers) would not have caught this failure and continued until disaster, so your vehicle can be used by you alone, because you are an essential part of that vehicle! (namely, the BMS) It looks like you just confirmed the thing that you tried to disprove... Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: Paul Dove
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
A Lee Hart Batt-Bridge is an excellent addition to a BMS. Belt and suspenders type approach. Redundant systems. Bill D. At 03:29 PM 6/18/2015, you wrote: The Lee Hart alternative of this solution is to have only a single pack, add a (very low current) tap in the center of the pack, connected to two super-bright LEDs mounted in a very visible place (on the dash right in front of you). Connect the two LEDs in anti-parallel so whichever direction there is more than about 2V difference, one of these LEDs will light up. Connect the other side of the 2 LEDs to a voltage divider that goes from pack+ to pack- and which in rest outputs the same voltage as at the tap. If you have an even number of cells/modules then this voltage divider is simply two identical resistors in series across the pack so the center point is at exactly half pack voltage. If you have an odd number, one of the two resistors needs to be a little bigger than the other (or use 2 in series or use a potmeter in between the two resistors so you can fine-tune the divider to be equal to the tap. Alternative could be a simple cheap zero-centered meter as often used in the current meters (can measure positive and negative) and place that instead of the two LEDs. Any imbalance between the two pack halves is indicated by the LEDs or this meter. Size the resistors so they allow for a small current, enough to light the LEDs or move the meter - you can easily test this by deliberately tapping the pack one cell too high/low and watching the result. for example, if you have a 120V pack then you will tap this at the 60V point and to get a 1mA through one of two red LEDs at that voltage when you have an (arbitrarily) 6V deviation between tap and the average of the pack, then you need a resistance divider of 10k + 10k Ohm. Note that this put a constant drain of 6mA on the pack - not a whole lot since it needs almost a week before it drains 1Ah, so even a moderate 100Ah pack would last almost 2 years from full to dead. But it is something to be aware of and disconnect when you store an EV. The approach with the needle meter is more sensitive since those typically have 100uA full scale so you would use at least 10 times bigger resistance value and this leads to 1/10th of the drain. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Sean Korb via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 1:41 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery This sub-subject gets done to death pretty regularly but I like gathering what I hear from both camps. Definitely going to use a BMS but I really like the non-BMS workaround of getting *two* expensive battery packs and using a really simple gauge that shows their comparative voltage. If one is sagging more than the other, pull over and find out what is wrong. If you have a smart BMS... it takes care of it for you until you can get home ;) sean On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Paul, In your case, *you* were the BMS. But you were lucky that you noticed the lower end voltage and knew something was off. You were lucky that the charger finished charging without cooking the other cells to death You were lucky that the bad cell was a short and not a partial failure or you might not have detected it in time or faced a much more severe situation than a shorted cell. Anyone less knowledgeable than you about your EV (and that would be 99+ percent of all drivers) would not have caught this failure and continued until disaster, so your vehicle can be used by you alone, because you are an essential part of that vehicle! (namely, the BMS) It looks like you just confirmed the thing that you tried to disprove... Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: Paul Dove [mailto:dov...@bellsouth.net] Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 11:13 AM To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I agree most wholeheartedly with the pro-BMS group, such as Cor, Lee, and David. You need a proper BMS on all multi-cell li-ion packs. Without exception, all EV OEMs have a BMS installed. The automakers wouldn't spend a dime that they don't have to, so a BMS is a very necessary thing on a Li-Ion pack. There is a wide variety of BMS's for sale in the home-builder EV market. The few well-established brands, specifically made for EVs, work very well because they have ironed all of the bugs out of them. (They are not the cheapest option because they have done the RD and development.) There are many newcomers to the market that don't work so well. Often, these are poorly designed and/or have poor quality control. RC cell balancers tend not to work well at all in an EV environment. You must read the reviews, install carefully, and test after installation to be sure the BMS is working correctly. Trust but verify. If you need convincing about the need for a BMS, simply watch the cell voltages in real time on an OEM EV with the maintenance software through the OBD port. For example, use LeafSpy Pro and a WiFi OBD dongle on a Nissan Leaf. The BMS is always hard at work balancing the cells and controlling the rate of charge, even in a new pack. It is amazing to watch just how busy it stays doing its job. If you don't have a BMS, you really don't know what your cell voltages are doing, do you? You _THINK_ you know, but you don't. That is the problem. Blissful ignorance, until the fire department arrives. Bill D. At 12:43 PM 6/18/2015, you wrote: Paul, How familiar are you with electronics? My wife's eBike has a nice pack with a built-in BMS that simply starts shunting current above a certain voltage and presumably (but I can't verify) also reduces charging current, so you can take care that the shunting cells are receiving zero current and no longer rise in voltage. The trick is to find a good voltage at which your BMS will protect the cells. That pack is very nicely top-balanced and I expect that many more BMSs that you are not even aware of in daily appliances such as power tools will all top-balance. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of paul dove via EV Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:40 AM To: Lee Hart; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery No one has convinced me that top balancing is even possible much less that a BMS can achieve this. If you hold a cell above the Open circuit voltage you are charging it even if you are trying to shunt the current with a Mosfet From: Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery David Nelson via EV wrote: That is a reason I don't use a cell level BMS. With a cell level BMS like the miniBMS there is a constant drain on the cells running the BMS boards and it is nearly impossible to make sure that each board uses the _exact_ same current regardless of voltage in the cell. Furthermore, boards like the miniBMS expect that you will balance at the end of every charge and last I saw, that balance voltage was at 3.6V or so which is over the theoretical 100% SOC level for LiFePO4 cells which leads to potential overcharging of the cells on every charge cycle. If you stop charging without the balancing taking place and/or let the pack sit for extended periods of time then the different current draw of each board working 24/7 introduces an imbalance in the SOC of the cells in the pack. Yes, this is a problem in the BMS market. Like quack medicine, it's full of customers worried about a problem that they don't understand very well. So there are marketeers only too happy to throw together some piece of junk that purports to solve it. It doesn't have to actually work -- it only needs to *sound* like it works, to separate the customer from his money. So some BMS work -- and some don't. The bad ones are so bad that they give the whoel BMS market a bad name. I've written about this over and over... check my old posts. It mostly seems to be of no avail, so I won't repeat myself again. Anything I say is overwhelmed by the noise of the internet. -- The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there before. -- Roy Spence -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 17 Jun 2015 at 8:17, Willie2 via EV wrote: I have a battery that looks to be a direct replacement coming from China. I don't want to fool with a battery that does not conform to the form factor of the original battery. Looks to be sounds a little discomfiting. I hope you get what you expect. I see a lot of questionable generic lithium batteries going at tantalizingly low prices on Ebay and the like, but my caution always kicks in: you don't always get what you pay for, but you very seldom get what you don't pay for. My golf carts, with 100ah LFP cells and miniBMS have been FAR too costly to maintain. Can you be a little more specific here? What makes them so expensive? I've been toying with lead replacement batteries that protect themselves from over charging and over discharging. I've seen those advertised. They reminded me of the Valence batteries that were made in marine battery form factors and designed to be charged with lead battery chargers (they had internal BMSes which supposedly could translate the lead charging algorithm). Somehow I had the impression that these much cheaper and smaller batteries were meant to replace lead ICE motorcycle starting batteries and/or lead UPS batteries, so I didn't explore them any further. THat was quite a while ago, though, so maybe different types are available now. So, several of those might work in a golf cart and not give me the repair/maintenance headache I have now. Golf cars are pretty economical and reliable with lead golf car batteries. I wonder if the bike batteries also protect themselves? Well, they almost certainly have some kind of BMS. However, I'd think it would expect the voltage and current that your stock bike charger produces. If you slam it with a golf car charger, its behavior might be unpredicatable and as pricey as these batteries can be I'd be hesitant to risk it. For sure you'd void any warranty it might have. IDavid Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
That seems to be dependent on the battery BMS design. I took apart a bad HP laptop battery and checked all the cells replacing the bad cells. Apparently the battery circuit has memory because it still showed as bad when inserted in the laptop. So unless you can reset the BMS it still may not work. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 17, 2015, at 2:10 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Willie, It has been my experience that if a bicycle (or laptop) pack is bad, it usually is just a single cell that has gone south. On EndlessSphere you see people bypass cells that have blown up and run an original 5s pack as 4s with original spec capacity, some go to the effort of figuring out why it happened, whether it can be repaired by either charging the one cell separately (which I did) or even replacing that one cell (from a similar pack) I have seen amazing things from relatively cheap bicycle batteries, including balancing (at very low current) and even overcurrent protection (low resistance MOSFET switch on the pack output that opens when too much current is drawn) which has saved the pack on my wife's eBike several times (crappy controller kept blowing up and shorting itself) BUT I do not see a good protection against over-charging on that BMS, as far as I can see the top voltage of the pack and charger are matched, so that when all but one cell are shunting (balancing) then the last cell coming close to its terminal voltage will also mean it reached the charger's output voltage (the charger being essentially a power supply with current limit). That is not so much a problem with the 24V systems where there are typically 6s but the higher you get, the bigger the chance a cell does not charge fully. But this has been my observation on a particular eBike pack - your pack might be completely different again and soon I will have another datapoint from repairing some stage lighting that is battery powered, where a pack is failing (quitting after 2 hours instead of running 6 hours). That looks to be using laptop cells, so I guess I will find re-packaged laptop solutions. Note that a laptop is typically charged with a much higher voltage than the cell's end voltage so that may be another approach. Success, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.comPrivate: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130 Tel: +1 408 383 7626Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 -Original Message- From: EV on behalf of Willie2 via EV Sent: Wed 6/17/2015 6:17 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery On 06/15/2015 11:12 AM, Willie2 wrote: A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? Thanks for the responses! Cors' was especially valuable. I had hoped to be pointed to some battery repair service such as exists for hybrid batteries. The guy working on the bike reported that all cells were bad. I didn't believe him and talked him into opening the case. He wasn't able to get access to all cells without tearing the case up but the two he did get access to seemed good. I have a battery that looks to be a direct replacement coming from China. I don't want to fool with a battery that does not conform to the form factor of the original battery. Hijacking my own thread: In looking for bike batteries, it occurred to me that a bunch of them might make a suitable golf cart battery. My golf carts, with 100ah LFP cells and miniBMS have been FAR too costly to maintain. I've been toying with lead replacement batteries that protect themselves from over charging and over discharging. So, several of those might work in a golf cart and not give me the repair/maintenance headache I have now. I wonder if the bike batteries also protect themselves? The lead replacements cost around $4/ah/cell while the bike batteries can go as low as about $1.50/ah/cell. I sometimes use 100 amps (@~36v) in a golf cart but I believe I can get by on 80 amps. Assuming a bike battery will do 1C, four 36v 20ah batteries might serve me. I might start with two just to see what trouble I encounter before I spend too much money. IF the bike batteries protect themselves from over charging, I could charge with regular golf cart chargers. Else, I could charge with one or several bike chargers. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: application/ms
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 06/17/2015 05:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: it appears that my flooded pack does much better than your Lithium packs with mini BMS. That may well be true. However, it does not deal with the major problem: my lack of diligence. I've had lead batteries. I don't want any more. I have enough trouble dealing with starting batteries in a multitude of EVs and tractors. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Golf cars are pretty economical and reliable with lead golf car batteries. I can not agree. In my experience, lead in golf carts is FAR more demanding in terms of maintenance. Monthly watering, bad battery connections, corrosion, rusted out battery boxes, general nastiness, ever declining capacity. Willie, As I said - for sparingly used golf carts there is no need for monthly watering unless you unnecessarily overcharge them. I do about 5k miles per year (mostly freeway) with my truck and I water them no more than 2x per year, sometimes there is almost a year in between waterings. I have 13k mi on them now and no sign of capacity decrease. Agreed that there is a risk of acid spilling and nastiness, but cost and maintenance wise it appears that my flooded pack does much better than your Lithium packs with mini BMS... Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Willie, It has been my experience that if a bicycle (or laptop) pack is bad, it usually is just a single cell that has gone south. On EndlessSphere you see people bypass cells that have blown up and run an original 5s pack as 4s with original spec capacity, some go to the effort of figuring out why it happened, whether it can be repaired by either charging the one cell separately (which I did) or even replacing that one cell (from a similar pack) I have seen amazing things from relatively cheap bicycle batteries, including balancing (at very low current) and even overcurrent protection (low resistance MOSFET switch on the pack output that opens when too much current is drawn) which has saved the pack on my wife's eBike several times (crappy controller kept blowing up and shorting itself) BUT I do not see a good protection against over-charging on that BMS, as far as I can see the top voltage of the pack and charger are matched, so that when all but one cell are shunting (balancing) then the last cell coming close to its terminal voltage will also mean it reached the charger's output voltage (the charger being essentially a power supply with current limit). That is not so much a problem with the 24V systems where there are typically 6s but the higher you get, the bigger the chance a cell does not charge fully. But this has been my observation on a particular eBike pack - your pack might be completely different again and soon I will have another datapoint from repairing some stage lighting that is battery powered, where a pack is failing (quitting after 2 hours instead of running 6 hours). That looks to be using laptop cells, so I guess I will find re-packaged laptop solutions. Note that a laptop is typically charged with a much higher voltage than the cell's end voltage so that may be another approach. Success, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.comPrivate: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130 Tel: +1 408 383 7626Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 -Original Message- From: EV on behalf of Willie2 via EV Sent: Wed 6/17/2015 6:17 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery On 06/15/2015 11:12 AM, Willie2 wrote: A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? Thanks for the responses! Cors' was especially valuable. I had hoped to be pointed to some battery repair service such as exists for hybrid batteries. The guy working on the bike reported that all cells were bad. I didn't believe him and talked him into opening the case. He wasn't able to get access to all cells without tearing the case up but the two he did get access to seemed good. I have a battery that looks to be a direct replacement coming from China. I don't want to fool with a battery that does not conform to the form factor of the original battery. Hijacking my own thread: In looking for bike batteries, it occurred to me that a bunch of them might make a suitable golf cart battery. My golf carts, with 100ah LFP cells and miniBMS have been FAR too costly to maintain. I've been toying with lead replacement batteries that protect themselves from over charging and over discharging. So, several of those might work in a golf cart and not give me the repair/maintenance headache I have now. I wonder if the bike batteries also protect themselves? The lead replacements cost around $4/ah/cell while the bike batteries can go as low as about $1.50/ah/cell. I sometimes use 100 amps (@~36v) in a golf cart but I believe I can get by on 80 amps. Assuming a bike battery will do 1C, four 36v 20ah batteries might serve me. I might start with two just to see what trouble I encounter before I spend too much money. IF the bike batteries protect themselves from over charging, I could charge with regular golf cart chargers. Else, I could charge with one or several bike chargers. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: application/ms-tnef Size: 4919 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150617/9f7c342c/attachment.bin ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 06/17/2015 04:08 PM, Cor van de Water via EV wrote: Willie, To try and interpret your answer on David's question: It looks like you are not running your golf carts with golf cart batteries (flooded lead acid) which would give you what you are asking for: occasional charging and easily a year (when used little) between watering. This is also likely the lowest cost and lowest complexity (no BMS, no sophisticated charger). Thanks, but I refer you to my previously stated view of lead. I have three golf carts each with 12 100ah LFP and miniBMS modules. The Zap has 25 100ah LFP and the Ranger 40 (or is it 39?) 160-180ah LFP. Golf cars are pretty economical and reliable with lead golf car batteries. I can not agree. In my experience, lead in golf carts is FAR more demanding in terms of maintenance. Monthly watering, bad battery connections, corrosion, rusted out battery boxes, general nastiness, ever declining capacity. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Ah yes, the infamous laptop BMS'es that blow a fuse (literally) when they detect a bad cell. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Paul Dove via EV Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2015 12:17 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery That seems to be dependent on the battery BMS design. I took apart a bad HP laptop battery and checked all the cells replacing the bad cells. Apparently the battery circuit has memory because it still showed as bad when inserted in the laptop. So unless you can reset the BMS it still may not work. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 17, 2015, at 2:10 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Willie, It has been my experience that if a bicycle (or laptop) pack is bad, it usually is just a single cell that has gone south. On EndlessSphere you see people bypass cells that have blown up and run an original 5s pack as 4s with original spec capacity, some go to the effort of figuring out why it happened, whether it can be repaired by either charging the one cell separately (which I did) or even replacing that one cell (from a similar pack) I have seen amazing things from relatively cheap bicycle batteries, including balancing (at very low current) and even overcurrent protection (low resistance MOSFET switch on the pack output that opens when too much current is drawn) which has saved the pack on my wife's eBike several times (crappy controller kept blowing up and shorting itself) BUT I do not see a good protection against over-charging on that BMS, as far as I can see the top voltage of the pack and charger are matched, so that when all but one cell are shunting (balancing) then the last cell coming close to its terminal voltage will also mean it reached the charger's output voltage (the charger being essentially a power supply with current limit). That is not so much a problem with the 24V systems where there are typically 6s but the higher you get, the bigger the chance a cell does not charge fully. But this has been my observation on a particular eBike pack - your pack might be completely different again and soon I will have another datapoint from repairing some stage lighting that is battery powered, where a pack is failing (quitting after 2 hours instead of running 6 hours). That looks to be using laptop cells, so I guess I will find re-packaged laptop solutions. Note that a laptop is typically charged with a much higher voltage than the cell's end voltage so that may be another approach. Success, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.comPrivate: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP: +31877841130 Tel: +1 408 383 7626Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 -Original Message- From: EV on behalf of Willie2 via EV Sent: Wed 6/17/2015 6:17 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery On 06/15/2015 11:12 AM, Willie2 wrote: A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? Thanks for the responses! Cors' was especially valuable. I had hoped to be pointed to some battery repair service such as exists for hybrid batteries. The guy working on the bike reported that all cells were bad. I didn't believe him and talked him into opening the case. He wasn't able to get access to all cells without tearing the case up but the two he did get access to seemed good. I have a battery that looks to be a direct replacement coming from China. I don't want to fool with a battery that does not conform to the form factor of the original battery. Hijacking my own thread: In looking for bike batteries, it occurred to me that a bunch of them might make a suitable golf cart battery. My golf carts, with 100ah LFP cells and miniBMS have been FAR too costly to maintain. I've been toying with lead replacement batteries that protect themselves from over charging and over discharging. So, several of those might work in a golf cart and not give me the repair/maintenance headache I have now. I wonder if the bike batteries also protect themselves? The lead replacements cost around $4/ah/cell while the bike batteries can go as low
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
On 15 Jun 2015 at 11:12, Willie2 via EV wrote: Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. I used a Ping battery for a scooter after reading mostly good things about them on Endless Sphere. Mine is still over 90% capacity after 3 years. They're not really suitable for high power, but for most e-bikes they should be OK. Just type Ping Battery into your search engine. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I have a electric mountain bike with very low speed gears, something like 30 to 1 in first gear. It uses two standard 12 volt 10 ah seal batteries in series for 24 volts. Only $19.95 each. Has so much torque, I completely did a back ward flip. Has a range of 15 miles at 15 mph. Can buy 25 of these for $500.00. One more thing while I am on. I thought someone said a while back, that the Li Ion battery does not required a break in. Then how come after 125 charging cycles which is for me, about two cycles a week, started out at 3.5 ah per mile and now doing about 2.5 ah per mile on the same exact routed, temperature and speed? I think what is happening, that the plate surfaces started out at a mirror finish, is now a rough surface which increases area and ah of the plate surfaces. Roland - Original Message - From: Willie2 via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org To: Electric Vehicle Discussion Listmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 10:12 AM Subject: [EVDL] Bicycle battery A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usubhttp://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.orghttp://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRAhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150615/6e42b202/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Willie, How about some NIMH battery modules from the Toyota Prius or other hybrid vehicle? They are 7.2 Volts and 6.5 Ah. Two battery modules in parallel would be 13 Ah and 5 of those in series would be 36 Volts. However, I think NiMH do not like running in parallel. This is ten modules total, at $45 each used is $450 before a charger, monitor, BMS, contacts, etc Maybe two series strings could be used without parallel bridges at each battery, only connect them with contactors when driving the bike. More cost effective would be going with 5 modules in series at 6.5 Ah and 36 Volts. Less range but less $$ and simpler. Have you looked at Leaf Lithium modules? Alan -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Willie2 via EV Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 9:12 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: [EVDL] Bicycle battery A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
Willie, Sure - On EndlessSphere there is a whole world of hobbyists assembling batteries and replacing cells from packs they blew up. BTW, first thing to check is if that cell self-discharged below the threshold from the BMS to allow charging again, sometimes the cell is not bad, it just needs to see charging often enough to avoid it self-discharging too low, so measure the cells, put a little bit of charge in cells that are below the cutoff (typically 2.5V) and see if it comes back and wants to play nice or that it is really dead. I have resurrected several Li-Ion packs that had such a cell with high discharge and the only consequence was that the one cell has slightly higher internal resistance and self-discharge, so as long as you keep it charged regularly and avoid maxing out the current draw (which is usually not a problem on an eBike: typical motor draw is 500W so that is only 1.5C from a 36V pack Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Willie2 via EV Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 9:12 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: [EVDL] Bicycle battery A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
I put a Battery Tender 10Ah 12v replacement battery in my EV and it's been working great. Very small and very light. Three would cost $300 so it's not as cheap as the Chinese duct-tape packs you can buy off eBay but has the advantage that you can replace it in thirds if needed. --Rick On 06/15/2015 12:12 PM, Willie2 via EV wrote: A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
My e-bike battery died as well. I hacked in a Ryobi 40 volt battery and it works great. BMS is built into the battery. There is even a state of charge display on the battery. Cut the battery holder off of a for parts only 40 volt Ryobi weed wacker bought on eBay for $30. Attached it securely to the bike. Connected the plus and minus from the holder to the plus and minus from the bike. Simple simple. I just plug in the battery to the stock Ryobi charger to recharge. Here is the facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/killacycle/posts/683153211721270 You can get the batteries for about $60 on eBay. For parts only Ryobi weed wackers abound on eBay. Bill D. At 10:12 AM 6/15/2015, you wrote: A battery for my Prodeco bicycle turned up dead. The OEM replacement is nearly $500. Can someone point me toward a better solution? 36v, ~10ah. Has anyone heard of anyone doing cell replacements? ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)