[h-cost] WW1 Ladies fashions
This is not my time frame either... I guess by the end of putting this book online, I will be more familiar. There is always room in my brain to learn more. One of the most important things to know about the WW1 era, is that this was when the dress hemlines rose above the ankles. Something the 1920s is credited for. IMO, the WW1-1923 is one of the most creative eras in design history. Some of the designers in the 1916 book, I recognize from the pre-war and 1920s, like Beer, Jenny, House of Worth, Martial et Armand, Paquin, Drecoll, and Agnes. There are some designers that I don't know their background like Bernard, Bulloz, and Georgette. One designer is really bothering me named Klein... no first name was provided in the book. I have three Kleins listed in my fashion designer books. There are Anne, Calvin, and Bernat. None of them were born before 1921. So this Klein in 1916 can't be them. Any day, I am supposed to be receiving my latest edition of Survey of Historic Costume textbook. It lists fashion designers by decades. I hope some of these designers are in the book. I know a lot of these fashion designers are in my L'Art de la Mode magazines from this time frame, but the articles are written in French. I can type in French but have no idea what it means. There are small descriptions in English and French translations under most of the L'Art. images. I want to take some college French courses at the local community college. It doesn't look good for me to take classes at the university with my students. There are thumbnails from this 1916 book my Library Updates page: http://www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm . There are 18 of 50 illustrations in the Library today. I am sorry for the very small thumbnails with the larger watermark on the updates page. We have to put the large watermarks on the public access pages to discourage journal websites from linking to them. Google crawls the updates page daily, so I have to be careful with the images on this webpage. Larger images are shown in my Costume Encyclopedia, www.costumeencyclopedia.com . You can use the Encyclopedia for free. Do a search with the keyword "designer" in the Costume field/line. Today, there are 168 entries and images for designers from 1890s-1920s in the Encyclopedia. The ones shown for 1910s /1916 are the ones from this book. When you click on the "DETAILS" link you will see the medium size images. The images in the database are harder to link to, so I can put larger images. I have photographed a few dresses from the WW1 era. But they do not look like these illustrations. These 1916 dresses look like more what you would wear in the 1980s. I have found a lot of the women's designs during the entire the WW1 era look very much like the 1980s/early 1990s. I have a Delineator magazine from 1918, that shows a jumpsuit like I wore during the 1980s. The dresses in the 1916 book reminds me of the dresses the girls wore on The Cosby Show. The second dress by Agnes on the Updates page: first row, second image from the left... the hat looks just like the ones I have photographed from the VCU collection from the 1930s/40s. I do know because of the War, a lot of designers had to shelf their designs and then pull them back out after the War. So you will see a lot of leftovers designs in the 1919-1923 time frame. From the fashion industry point-of-view, I do know how the industry had to make a lot of adjustments. I collect fashion industry publications for the 19th and 20th Centuries. I am interested on how to textile products got to the consumers. I have a few of the articles in the Library of a 1918 trade publication National Association of Retail Clothiers, http://www.costumegallery.com/1918/ . These discuss the lifting of the textile restrictions and the schedule of the release of goods. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
In a message dated 11/13/2006 10:28:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: But the word "Porpoise" is. In that context, it does sound more like a description of the fabric--compare it to "sharkskin." Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
In a message dated 11/14/2006 7:00:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: It was interesting to see them dye the fibre though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once rung out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their eyes! Discussion? That is how a vat dye works. The most common vat dye is, of course, indigo (also found in woad). The dye is not water soluble--needs to be chemically reduced to dissolve in water. The fabric is dipped in the vat, then as it is lifted out and exposed to air, the dyestuff re-oxidizes, and the blue color forms. Tyrian purple was also a vat dye. As the murex were killed in the process, the species was just about wiped out, but a similar dye, from a related species, is still used in central America. There, they have figured out a way to make the shellfish give up its dye without killing it. Since the color forms in the fibers, it is very fast. It is true that you get color rinsing out or rubbing off at first, but that is generally excess dye. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
What started this train of thought for me was this: http://www.tekhelet.com/brochure.htm . I didn't realise the importance of blue to the Hebrews or if there was any significance to women. I did a search on biblical Judith and found a quote from the Book of Judith that said she cast off her blue widow's veil and left the city, her beauty was a surprise to the elders Judith is considered a heroine but the whole story is by most thought to be fictional by many. Judith is important in that she represents the people overcoming their invaders. When I did a cursory search for Judith paintings, there was an overwhelming number of them that in some way, she was wearing a distinct blue or shades of it, even if just a fold or stripe in a layer. Italians subscribed to the yellow-is-Jewish thing as well, she wore nothing on her head - likely relevant to the story of her casting off her veil. She doesn't for the most part look any different than any other Italian woman, it seemed the bulk of the non-Italian, 16th c. paintings didn't use this blue indicator however - Cranach being the most noticable in this group. I really don't know how to interpret this one. It would be a fascinating research... just one I don't have the time to sink my teeth into at the moment. Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules. It’s never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131 > Wow! This stirred up a really vague memory of an article I read, > probably 15 years ago about a special blue dye--if memory serves, it > came from the Mediterranean, and was, similar to Tyrian purple, a > shell-fish based vat dye. And it was used by the Hebrews and, again > if I'm remembering right, had a ritual significance. If it's shellfish-based, it would be unlikely to be used by the Hebrews, at least not post-Sinai, as it would be considered unclean per the kosher law in Leviticus. So, depending on where and when the art was produced, you might see pointed hats, or yellow badges, or stripes, or other devices to designate Jewish characters -- In medieval Christian art, ultramarine blue has long been associated with the Virgin -- usually in her mantle or robe -- because it was the most expensive available pigment. but I don't know if that was a "Jewish" thing in particular or just an "important person" designator. You are probably thinking about the single thread of blue included in I'm not aware of any special significance of blue in regards to women. It's probably something from the Christian symbolism ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hair
I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. Argh! In fact, back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a week or two. I've considered the french braid thing, but haven't tried it for years--my hair may be long enough again that it'd work now (~3 inches past waist). Which leads to my other problem: since I'm growing out my hair sans trimming, I now have about 6 inches of natural layering (and split ends), which means that when I try to hide the ends of my braids, they poke out all over the place and look awful. It seems like the french braid idea would make it even harder to hide the ends, since there really wouldn't be any place to tuck them out of sight. Any bright ideas? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt inlateMiddleages???
I didn't have a chance to look at it last night, Michaela, but it is very, very cool! ;o) I don't think I've seen a costume of yours yet that doesn't make my jaw just drop! I don't think you're afraid to try anything! I wouldn't worry about discussing the rest of it overly much--wouldn't be the first time we discussed a recent movie's costumes, but then, since I'm not a movie/theatre/costume fiend, that's the part of this list I find the most enlightening and fascinating. --Sue, in snowy/drippy Montana... - Original Message - From: "michaela" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:49 AM Subject: Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt inlateMiddleages??? > > > http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm > > > http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30 > > > > Oh my goodness, this looks brilliant! And you wear it well. > > > Thank you:) And to keep it on h-cost topic... the corset is remarkably > simialr ot the 1900 corset in Corsets and Crinolines by Waugh. The changes > are: shortening the basque/hip panels, cutting it to underbust and (work CF > to CB) combining the first and second body panels and the third and fourth. > It's the most comfortable corset I have and I suspect it's due to the > underbust and the basques. My waist to hip is atm 71cm:98cm and I can get a > rather narrow waist so I think the shaping helps with that but without > compressing my ribs. > > Michaela de Bruce > http://glittersweet.com > (no idea how to work the rest of the costume into h-cost territory;) Unless > the 1990s are now retro enough...) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
Thanks for trying. It is a crude site so when I am updating it is inaccessible. Please try again. Lady Von Susan Data-Samtak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I thought it was just me. I have Internet Explorer and it doesn't work for me, either. Susan "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark Trail" by Louis L'Amour On Nov 13, 2006, at 6:42 PM, Gail & Scott Finke wrote: > > I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either. > > Gail Finke > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Lady Von http://www.wildthangstreasures.com - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
I have had several responses saying site not accessible. When I update it takes the site down until I have finished. Unfortunately, I created the site using Microsoft Publisher and that is the only one I know how to use and it goes through Internet Explorer. Anyone interested in a specific item (like dress, umbrella, etc) just email me and I will send picture. I hope to have a more modern site come 1st of the year but right now I am busy sewing extra garments for upcoming Ren Faire in Mobile, Alabama so my site is suffering for more modern program. I sew to subsidize my SS retirement so it is very important to me to receive your comments to help me improve my site. It takes me a week sometimes to create one dress because of my arthritis. I love to sew is why I chose this method to subsidize my income. Any suggestions/comments are welcome. Thanks. Lady Von ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Lady Von http://www.wildthangstreasures.com - Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
Dyes from indigo are similar - indican (indoxyl + glucose), which is colorless, goes into solution (traditionally by using stale urine for the ammonia to make the solution basic), the glucose is bacterially digested, the soluble colorless chemical travels to the fiber, the indoxyls combine with oxygen while in the fiber to give indigotin & things turn blue! -absolutely magic! J. N. Lyles (The Art & Craft of Natural Dyeing) says that the snails seem to produce varying concentrations of indigotin & dibromoindigo(more reddish purple). The snail would have the pigments, which are not soluble in water - the caustic soda & boiling water would make alkaline conditions to release them to go into the fiber, the air would provide the oxygen to bring out the color & set it in the fiber. More magic! Patty -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kelly Grant Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 6:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith Funny how this comes up today! Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue in ancient times. How it was produced from the snail. The trick to getting blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight. The ultra violet light produces a very vivid blue, if not exposed the dye will come out purple. I thought it was fasinating. There is also quite a controversy in some sects of the Jewish faith over the use of snails or cuttlefish to produce the dye. The archeaological evidence suggests snails though, due to the amount of snail shells at dye sites. How they suggest the dye is made rotten dried up snail caustic soda boiling water sunlight I am not a dyer, so I don't say this would work, I also don't know the quantities of each. It was interesting to see them dye the fibre though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once rung out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their eyes! Discussion? Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician >From: Kathy Page <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the >colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith and >all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren >paintings. > _ Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more...then map the best route! Check out Live Local today! http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
Funny how this comes up today! Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue in ancient times. How it was produced from the snail. The trick to getting blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight. The ultra violet light produces a very vivid blue, if not exposed the dye will come out purple. I thought it was fasinating. There is also quite a controversy in some sects of the Jewish faith over the use of snails or cuttlefish to produce the dye. The archeaological evidence suggests snails though, due to the amount of snail shells at dye sites. How they suggest the dye is made rotten dried up snail caustic soda boiling water sunlight I am not a dyer, so I don't say this would work, I also don't know the quantities of each. It was interesting to see them dye the fibre though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once rung out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their eyes! Discussion? Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Kathy Page <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith and all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren paintings. _ Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more then map the best route! Check out Live Local today! http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
From: "Kimiko Small" May I ask what hair style you wear under your hood? I tried the styles mentioned in the Tudor Tailor, and my hair is so thick it wants to fall off my head, and pins are of almost no help. I have mid-back length hair, if that is long enough Elizabeth Walpole wrote: Have you tried taping or sewing the braids in place? like this http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/hair/Hair%20taping.htm This is the method I use. Thanks for the good website ref! Before I do the braids, though, I part in the center and roll the front of each side like this http://www.marileecody.com/isabel.jpg That keeps the front under control, and makes those little rolls along the hairline. My hair does not stay with pins, as it's too slippery (or maybe it's the shape of my head!). I have to sew the braids to the hair underneath (not just to each other) with ribbon to make it stay. Kimiko, adding gel or mousse and braiding tightly while wet will help. The product will make your hair stick to itself better, and the water will keep it all together while you're braiding. Parting it in the center and brushing to either side before braiding in two braids will also help--that way the hair you're sewing the braids to is going in the ear-to-ear direction instead of the forehead-to-nape direction, and the braids can't "slide" down the back of your head once sewn to the rest of the hair. Good luck! If I can do it with my hair (which doesn't like to stay _anywhere_), you can too. Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in lateMiddleages???
> > http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm > > http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30 > > Oh my goodness, this looks brilliant! And you wear it well. Thank you:) And to keep it on h-cost topic... the corset is remarkably simialr ot the 1900 corset in Corsets and Crinolines by Waugh. The changes are: shortening the basque/hip panels, cutting it to underbust and (work CF to CB) combining the first and second body panels and the third and fourth. It's the most comfortable corset I have and I suspect it's due to the underbust and the basques. My waist to hip is atm 71cm:98cm and I can get a rather narrow waist so I think the shaping helps with that but without compressing my ribs. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com (no idea how to work the rest of the costume into h-cost territory;) Unless the 1990s are now retro enough...) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hoods (was Tudor Tailor -- another review)
Kimiko Small wrote: > The illumination was only recently found in a friends book on > illuminations, so it is new online. When I saw the image I knew that > it was the key image on French hoods since it clearly shows three > angles, including that tube. I knew the Mary Tudor coin held a key, > as well as the French woodcut, but when it shows up in full color, > there is no mistaking any of the details. Yes! Though this is still a fairly early version of the French hood. Later ones are slightly different. > The reason why I will remake the whole thing is my hood has only the > front portion with no backside or under coif. With the new image, I > now believe it is a full coif as the base, with everything else added > to that coif. Or at least that is my take on the image. I think you're right. You'll need to redo the whole back--but you might still be able to use the crescent if you can detach the first hood from it. > On your gown and French hood, I love how you look in the whole thing. > Very beautifully done. And I agree about that dark hood in a dark > background being hard to capture. But you look so very good. :) Thanks! Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Questionable color
Perhaps porpoise skin is like shark skin? Texture finish? Patty -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:28 PM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Questionable color I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog. I am not sure if something is a color or not. Please read the following ladies' dress description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what. The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name. But the word "Porpoise" is. DESCRIPTION: "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue. "Porpoise" skin silk. Vest and collar of white organdy. Smoke pearl buttons and buckle. Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk. Collar and cuffs of "dove" gabardine. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] WW1 Ladies fashions
Hi Penny, My Grandparents were married in England in 1916. I have a newspaper clipping picture taken at the time scanned into my 'other' computer. I can't access it right now, but from what I recall my grandmother was not wearing a wedding dress, but rather what I would refer to as a 'day dress' or suit. It is above the ankles, but also does not look quite like what is shown in those illustrations. (it also could be that she is wearing a coat over the whole thing, as it was February.) I am not very familiar with the styles and terminology of that period, but the dress (coat?) its self reminds me more of the dropped waist style of the 20's but the skirt seems somewhat on the narrow side, whereas her hat is huge - almost "Gibson Girl" in style. If you are interested I can email you a copy of the clipping. Just let me know so I can have my husband to switch computers so I can access my files. Annette T - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
At 14:33 14/11/2006, you wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Wow, that is some really cool information, Melanie. So, does that > allow you to draw any conclusions about the gable headdress?( > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady5.jpg) > > It almost looks like it could be the same hood, only with the fall(s) > attached on the bottom instead of the top (and, of course, there were two falls). The construction of gable hoods seems to be pretty different from the French hood, despite their probable common origins. I can't really speculate about gable hoods (think I'll quit while I'm ahead!). > I've always thought that if someone made a timeline of images showing > how the gable and French hood > headdresses evolved from earlier fashions, it would help us figure > out what's under there. But then, > maybe you would need to know what was under there before you could > make such a timeline. A timeline can definitely help. I've developed one for the French hood, and from it I can formulate hypotheses about the layers. I haven't done the same for the gable, however. Gable headdresses seem to have been made on a metal wire frame. The one I made for the Museum of London was based on a copy of the frame in the museum. There seems to be a French Hood frame there too, but it's like no French Hood shape I've ever seen. The gable has become very shabby, as it is in constant use be members of the public, who will insist on picking off the jewels. When I made it I had a copy of the Tudor Tailor, but I am afraid I disagreed with quite a lot of the instructions, and ended up doing (and re-doing, and re-doing) it until I was happy with the way it looked. If you want to see it, go here. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Vermeer1.jpg The Museum took a picture of one of their staff wearing it hence the title - although how they thought it was of Vermeer's period I don't know!! (Maybe it resembles the "Girl with the Pearl Earring" painting?) Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
One thing that may help is to have your hair in a not perfectly clean state. Oiler hair holds together better. Arlys, who has the same problem you do ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Wow, that is some really cool information, Melanie. So, does that > allow you to draw any conclusions about the gable headdress?( > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady5.jpg) > > It almost looks like it could be the same hood, only with the fall(s) > attached on the bottom instead of the top (and, of course, there were two falls). The construction of gable hoods seems to be pretty different from the French hood, despite their probable common origins. I can't really speculate about gable hoods (think I'll quit while I'm ahead!). > I've always thought that if someone made a timeline of images showing > how the gable and French hood > headdresses evolved from earlier fashions, it would help us figure > out what's under there. But then, > maybe you would need to know what was under there before you could > make such a timeline. A timeline can definitely help. I've developed one for the French hood, and from it I can formulate hypotheses about the layers. I haven't done the same for the gable, however. Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Glad to hear someone else that suffers with RA and sews understands the flare ups and recovery periods. Lady Von michaela <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I have RA too and this weekend overdid the sewing a bit too much to help out a dance school. I took about 8 200mg Ibuprofen a day as well as up to 4mg prednisone (usually only on one) on top of my regular medication (including 1000mg of Naprosen)* and am still in terrific pain. The sewing trggered a massive inflamatory response (from toes to jaw with extra pain in those areas overused.) Anyway, just saying it's not just an added burden for time but for time taken to recover. That said I learnt I have indeed sped up and could be fast enough for industry standards, but couldn't keep that speed up for more than a day even with all the above precautions. h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Lady Von http://www.wildthangstreasures.com - Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
My hair does not stay with pins, as it's too slippery (or maybe it's the shape of my head!). I have to sew the braids to the hair underneath (not just to each other) with ribbon to make it stay. This is what I was going to say. I use a large needle, make sure I catch the hair underneath, and work my way slowly around my head. Do it really tight, too. Space each "stitch" about an inch or so apart, and work slowly. You'll need about 6 or 7 feet (up to two meters) to do it right, if not more. My biggest suggestion, is to do it on a day that you have a lot of time and nowhere to go. It's always more frustrating when you are on your way to an event and trying a new hairstyle. Good luck, Genie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hair
It also works to kill wasps and yellow jackets. Completely OT, I know, but I just *had* to share! I really hate those buggers. I have very slippery, fine hair as well, and decently long (mostly about bra-strap length...it just won't grow much further), but not in any great quantity, alas. I've noticed that I have a LOT more success keeping the stuff braided and quiescent, and the wispy bits controlled, if it's, well, not exactly freshly washed. I suspect that the residual oils remaining even if I rinse, but don't use shampoo, serve much the same function (in this case) as would a styling product. Adds a bit of texture/volume, etc. --Sue - Original Message - From: "otsisto" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 7:13 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hair > I learned a trick once with hairspray. After you have braided, take > hairspray and spray your hand and then smooth it over the braids to hold the > stragglers in place without coating the hair. I learned this trick along > with using hairspray on water stains on a ceiling tile to seal it before you > paint it and spray the edge of satin were you are going to sew a seam to > light baste it and keep the satin from slipping. (haven't tried the last > one) > De > > -Original Message- > I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have > it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems > able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. Argh! In fact, > back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a > week or two. > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
Thanks for looking. Sorry you are having problem. The navigation bar with the links should show up on the left. Just choose the category and click. I just tried and no problem. Lady Von Susan Data-Samtak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: This is all I get. No links, nothing else. I can't see anything! Help! < Check back often to see NEW items added. Give us a call or send email and we will be happy to answer your questions. Our goal is to offer unique items at a reasonable price while giving personal service to those who contact us.>> Susan "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark Trail" by Louis L'Amour On Nov 13, 2006, at 8:14 PM, Voncile W. Dudley wrote: > Sorry. I may have been updating at the time. Please try again. > Lady Von > > Gail & Scott Finke wrote: > > I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either. > > Gail Finke > > ___ > - > Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. > ___ >_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
Quoting Joan Jurancich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > > Since the second reference to "Porpoise" skin is for the navy blue > coat, my guess is that the "Porpoise" skin refers to the texture of > the silk, not the color. I agree, and would add that the quotation marks might imply that the silk is imitation porpoise skin. I'm thinking of the sandblasted sueded silks available now. (Sueded--another leather reference) Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Hey, we all have our individual way of sewing. When I think of a garment sewing time I think about everything involved from the laying out of the pattern to the last detail. I thought the garment in question was gorgeous not thinking about the authenticity or anything else, just first impression. I use a regular ol sewing machine and such and I don't sew on a large scale. Those who do are to be complimented for their ability to do such and create beautiful authentic or just Ren garb. Smile...you will feel better! Lady Von Sue Clemenger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Absolutely! I may have been making incorrect assumptions about the construction of this dress, but the website wasn't exactly forthcoming with details! ;o) I've not really ever bought historically-themed clothing or costumes, as I usually make my own, but I have definitely purchased my share of off-the-rack clothing over the years, and have looked at some items that friends have purchased. There's an awfully wide range of construction options out there, and certainly, an item that was more carefully constructed would be worthy of a higher asking price. I just don't assume the reverse, especially given that the website didn't provide many details, which I've seen a number of others do, especially when they're aiming at a reenactor's market, in which authentic construction is a definite selling point for some folks. --Sue - Original Message - From: "Sylvia Rognstad" To: "Historical Costume" Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 7:47 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages??? > I sew for a living (among other things) and I don't like to rush myself > too much. I certainly don't sew fast by commercial industrial > standards. That would be too stressful and not at all enjoyable. I > was thinking of the dress being lined, faced, etc, when I said it would > probably take me a couple days. And I don't sew and serge at the same > time. I prefer to sew my seams and then serge them, in case I have to > take something out. I realize sewing and serging in one step cuts out > a lot of extra time. > > SYlrog > > On Nov 13, 2006, at 7:39 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote: > > > I wasn't including cutting time in that estimate--I was thinking in > > more > > industrial/mass quantity terms. If you're doing a whole bunch of that > > sort > > of thing all at once, you can get really fast at it, and the type of > > machine > > you have can greatly assist in that. The website didn't say anything, > > that > > I recall, about types of seams used, or finishings on the insides, > > outside > > of the mention of the dress being half-lined. So I more or less > > assumed > > that it was serged or something similar. More labor-intensive, > > detail-oriented choices would of course take more time! And I certainly > > wouldn't want anyone doing this sort of work to under-pay themselves! > > It's > > just that I've only ever done sewing as either a strictly recreational > > thing, or in an industrial setting, so my costuming experiences may > > likely > > differ from other people, who are doing it on a more of a "cottage > > industry" > > scale. > > --Sue > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Sylvia Rognstad" > > To: "Historical Costume" > > Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 8:25 AM > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages??? > > > > > >> You must sew awfully fast. I've been sewing most all my life and I > >> can > >> see that taking me a couple days, including cutting of course, so that > >> would bring my price, just for labor, up to $400. I don' think the > >> asking price is unreasonable. My garments are quite well made, > >> though, > >> and fully lined if necessary. > >> > >> Sylrog > >> > >> On Nov 12, 2006, at 10:51 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote: > >> > >>> With a serger? Couple of hours, tops. Of course, I could build a > >>> complete > >>> tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living. Now I deal > >>> with maps > >>> and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my > >>> sewing for > >>> fun. > >>> --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o) > >>> > >>> - Original Message - > >>> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" > >>> To: "Historical Costume" > >>> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM > >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages??? > >>> > >>> > Really? How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a > gown? > > On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote: > > > Quoting Sylvia Rognstad : > > > >> I should go into business. Wonder how many this company sells at > >> those > >> prices. > > > > Who Knows! But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that! > > > > susan > > - > > Susan Farmer > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > University of Tennessee > > Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology > > http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ > > > > __
[h-cost] Jewish Blue Dye
Jewish blue dye from mollusk. VERY Sorry if a false posting was sent. I'm at work with different email and hit the wrong button. This should make up for it: God spoke to Moses and told him that the Children of Israel will wear fringes of blue to remind them of the 10 Commandments. The technique and art was just about gone thanks to the Romans. Found this great discussion for you. http://www.ottmall.com/mj_ht_arch/v8/mj_v8i12.html Funny how we can rewrite, ruin, or erase history. Also, there was talk about shows featuring dyes from snails. I saw a show (on History Channel I believe) that explored the worst jobs for a certain year or era. Yep, smashing and cooking snails for dyes was one of them. Pretty horrible. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middleages???
Wow! Great job and you wear it well! Lady Von Robin Netherton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: On Tue, 14 Nov 2006, michaela wrote: > http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm > http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30 Oh my goodness, this looks brilliant! And you wear it well. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
In a message dated 11/13/2006 9:10:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: To split off from the actual topic, I recently had a tv show on in the background whilst working, and caught a few details about the dye used to produce the tekhelet blue as prescribed in the Torah & described in the Talmud. The animal used for it, the hillazon, is now a mystery, but the cuttlefish has become a popular suspect. They showed dye made from the cuttlefish and various other suspects, which was quite beautiful (lavender/sky blue). Thanks--that must be what I was thinking of. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Hair
I learned a trick once with hairspray. After you have braided, take hairspray and spray your hand and then smooth it over the braids to hold the stragglers in place without coating the hair. I learned this trick along with using hairspray on water stains on a ceiling tile to seal it before you paint it and spray the edge of satin were you are going to sew a seam to light baste it and keep the satin from slipping. (haven't tried the last one) De -Original Message- I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. Argh! In fact, back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a week or two. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
Maybe something of the same chemical reaction as when dyeing with woad or indigo? My book on "Red Dyes: Cochineal, Madder and Murex Purple," notes a number of things regarding the use of mollusk secretions as a dye stuff. There are, for instance, several types of mollusks used for this, and they occur in different parts of the world AND produce different shades. There's a bluish one called "purpura hyacintha and a more reddish one called purpura blatta or Tyrian purple." According to the book, we don't have a lot of details about the actual process used in making ancient colors like Tyrian purple, although it sounds like it started with the extraction of the snail, removal of the gland in question, and then, any one of a number of possibilities. Too much history and war and destruction of dye works in the last 3000 years, I guess! ;o( Further on in the same section, the author discusses purple dyes that occur in the western hemisphere, and in that area, I found something that sounds much like what you're talking about. In 1909, an anthropologist wrote about mollusk dyeing along the Pacific Coast of Mexico, and mentions: "' When the cotton thread is moistened with the color secretion it first turns green. Then, when it is dried by the rays of the sun, the green turns purple and becomes permanent.'" Interestingly, the section closes with a brief discussion on just what we mean when we say "purple," since it's really not one single color, but rather an entire ranges of shades. Some of them are virtually blue, others, much more distinctly red. A number of very old texts (such as the Old Testament) make clear distinctions between red-purple and blue-purple. There's even some 2nd century apocrypha describing Mary (mother of Jesus) being specifically honored in being chosen to spin the purple-red and scarlet-red fibers (I assume wool or silk)--I'm assuming as a young woman, because when she returns the finished yarns/threads to the priest, there's a bit of foreshadowing when the priest tells her that she "will be blessed among all the people of the world." (The same bit of apocrypha mentions "the gold, the white, the flax, the silk, the dark blue, the scarlet red, and the purple red", so something pretty expensive was going on;o) --Sue in Montana p.s. Oh, yeah, the book I mentioned is "The Red Dyes: Cochineal, Madder, and Murex Purple," and it's written by Gosta Sandberg. Out of print, I believe, but a fascinating read. - Original Message - From: "Kelly Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 4:59 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith > Funny how this comes up today! > > Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue in > ancient times. How it was produced from the snail. The trick to getting > blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight. The ultra violet > light produces a very vivid blue, if not exposed the dye will come out > purple. > > I thought it was fasinating. > > There is also quite a controversy in some sects of the Jewish faith over the > use of snails or cuttlefish to produce the dye. The archeaological evidence > suggests snails though, due to the amount of snail shells at dye sites. > > How they suggest the dye is made > > rotten dried up snail > caustic soda > boiling water > sunlight > > I am not a dyer, so I don't say this would work, I also don't know the > quantities of each. It was interesting to see them dye the fibre > though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once rung > out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their eyes! > > Discussion? > > > Kelly > > > > An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. > > > Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician > > > > > > >From: Kathy Page <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the > >colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith and > >all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren > >paintings. > > > > _ > Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more.then map the best > route! Check out Live Local today! http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/ > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
Here's another useful page on tekhelet: http://www.jewishweaving.com/blog/ Suddenly relevant to me as I was thinking of attending a tallit-making class soon; my oldest son received his grandfather's tallit at his bar mitzvah, but my youngest will need one in a couple of years, and it might take me that long to make one if I choose to do that ... in part because I would want to study the traditions involved, including the blue in the tefillin strings. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
I guess it's all a matter of whose ox (or gown) gets gored... (Sorry; the pun fairy made me do it...) On Nov 13, 2006, at 4:59 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: Now I feel really bad about posting this "gores question". The picture just kind of caught my eye, as I'd heard some people telling me that contrasting gores were accurate in the middle ages - a fact that I wasn't very sure of. So I just wanted to ask. It wasn't meant to doubt the lady's work at all. Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
I think the original needed a proofreader. There seems to be an extaneous period after the first "navy blue, and the quotation marks seem to belong around "porpoise skin", since in the next sentence that's how we see those words grouped., You've got something here called porpoise skin silk that is navy blue in the trimmings and in the coat. MaggiRos --- Penny Ladnier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog. > I am not sure if something is a color or not. > Please read the following ladies' dress description > and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or > what. The color "dove" is not capitalized when used > as a color name. But the word "Porpoise" is. > > DESCRIPTION: > "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy > blue. "Porpoise" skin silk. Vest and collar of > white organdy. Smoke pearl buttons and buckle. > Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk. Collar and > cuffs of "dove" gabardine. > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hair
It also helps not to wash your hair the same day you want to do this. Perfectly clean hair tends to slip out of tight arrangements. MaggiRos --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this > problem, since I have > it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing > I've tried seems > able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. > Argh! In fact, > back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm > for more than a > week or two. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
Quoting Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: museum. There seems to be a French Hood frame there too, but it's like no French Hood shape I've ever seen. I think I might know the French Hood frame you're talking about; it puzzles me, too. It's hard to tell from the photo I have, but I wonder if it could possibly be the frame for this type of Anglicized half French hood, half gable hood: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cecilia.jpg My only problem with this theory is that the frame I saw curls all the way around before going back to the front (argh, hard to describe) leaving a little circle inside an obtuse angle, which would mess with the angular corner seen in the portraits. If the circle were on the outside of the corner rather than the inside, it'd make perfect sense for this, and give a much sharper and stronger corner than if it were simply bent into an angle. Or perhaps it would work as the back curve on this: http://www.gutenberg.org/files/14264/14264-h/images/30ppi/plate53.jpg Of course, I've only seen this in 2-d photo form, so I can't tell exactly how the whole thing is shaped. By the way, I just ran across a cute and rather impressive display: http://www.artnet.de/galleries/Inventory.asp?gid=1158&cid=101304 I could easily quibble with some of the details of the garments, but overall it's got a great wow effect. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] conference
The following conference is going on this week. I do hope that the proceedings will be published! Beth Matney Fashion and Clothing in Late Medieval Europe 16th 18th November 2006, in Riggisberg (Switzerland) Conference organized in cooperation with the Department of Medieval History at the Historical Institute of the University of Berne Program: http://www.mittelalter.hist.unibe.ch The conference is open to all scholars, the number of participants is restricted. --- Sektion I Einzelne Gewandelemente / Part I Individual Pieces of Clothing: - JUNE SWANN (NORTHAMPTON) European Shoes 1200-1520 RAINER C. SCHWINGES (BERN) Between Gown and Fashion: a Student's Clothes in the Late 15th Century JUTTA ZANDER-SEIDEL (NÜRNBERG) "Haubendämmerung". Frauenkopfbedeckungen zwischen Spätmittelalter und Früher Neuzeit KATHARINA SIMON-MUSCHEID (BERN) Les couvre-chefs au bas moyen-âge: marqueurs culturels et signes politiques NAOMI TARRANT (EDINBURGH) "Cut your coat to suit your cloth" How a Textile Affects the Cut of a Garment KNUT SCHULZ (BERLIN) Produktion und Vertrieb von Textilien. Voraussetzungen, Impulse und Innovationen -- Sektion II Soziale Schichtung und ständische Differenzierung / Part II Clothing and Fashion from Different Social Levels --- AMALIA DESCALZO LORENZO (MADRID) Les vêtements royaux du monastère Santa Maria la Real de Huelgas MARGARETA NOCKERT (UPPSALA) Clothing Found in Scandinavia and Greenland JUTTA CHARLOTTE VON BLOH (DRESDEN) Princely Canons of Clothing and Dynastic Historiography the Garments of Elector Moritz of Saxony (1521-1553) STEPHAN SELZER (HALLE A.D. SAALE) Adel auf dem Laufsteg. Das Hofgewand an reichsfürstlichen Höfen um 1500 FRANCES PRITCHARD (MANCHESTER) Clothing Worn in 14th Century London Based on Archaeological Evidence NEITHARD BULST (BIELEFELD) Signe de distinction. Le vêtement bourgeois en Allemagne et en France dans la législation somptuaire. Sektion III Symbolische Aspekte von Kleidung und Mode / Part III Symbolic Aspects of Clothing and Fashion EVA SCHLOTHEUBER (MÜNCHEN) Best Clothes and Every-day Attire of Late Medieval Nuns MARIA HAYWARD (WINCHESTER) The Influence of the Liturgical Year on the Wardrobe of Henry VIII JOHANNES PIETSCH (RIGGISBERG) Showing the Body Shaping the Body. The Interaction of Clothing and the Human Figure KLAUS OSCHEMA (BERN) Amis, favoris, sosies. Le vêtement comme miroir des relations personnelles ROBERTA ORSI-LANDINI (FIRENZE) The Influence of the Medici on International Developments of Fashion GIL BARTHOLEYNS (BRUXELLES) La mode et les Réformes. Discussion sur les causes de la transformation du vêtement en Europe (XIIIeXVIe siècle) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
bad...naughty...have some chocolate. :) -Original Message- I guess it's all a matter of whose ox (or gown) gets gored... (Sorry; the pun fairy made me do it...) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Jewish Blue Dye
Not to mention how the snails felt. :-) Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sonja Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 10:22 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Jewish Blue Dye Jewish blue dye from mollusk. VERY Sorry if a false posting was sent. I'm at work with different email and hit the wrong button. This should make up for it: God spoke to Moses and told him that the Children of Israel will wear fringes of blue to remind them of the 10 Commandments. The technique and art was just about gone thanks to the Romans. Found this great discussion for you. http://www.ottmall.com/mj_ht_arch/v8/mj_v8i12.html Funny how we can rewrite, ruin, or erase history. Also, there was talk about shows featuring dyes from snails. I saw a show (on History Channel I believe) that explored the worst jobs for a certain year or era. Yep, smashing and cooking snails for dyes was one of them. Pretty horrible. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
Penny Ladnier wrote: I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog. I am not sure if something is a color or not. Please read the following ladies' dress description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what. The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name. But the word "Porpoise" is. DESCRIPTION: "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue. "Porpoise" skin silk. Vest and collar of white organdy. Smoke pearl buttons and buckle. Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk. Collar and cuffs of "dove" gabardine. My first thought was that it sounded like a type or texture of silk... but my gut tells me it's some kind of waterproofed outer wear fabric that's being used for this coat. Like Goretex. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hair
Kimiko Small wrote: Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions. My hair is like that too. Gels and hairspray simply do not work to control it. It's long, and straight, very fine individually, slippery, and there's so much of it that conventional clips and barettes can't hold it. I have discovered that when trying to do 'period' hair I need to make several smaller braids. Four, actually. There's one parted from just behind the ear with the hair on the sides of the face, which can go over the top of the head, or around the back. There's two in the back which can be twisted into a bun, or can cross and go around the back of the head behind the ear. If you cross the two tails in back and pin them under each other, then you can pin the front braids in a loop over your ear for a very nice medieval style. I always start with a full card of hair pins and extra elastics, and I expect to have to re-do it in about 4 hours time. :) Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hair
You know, my hair seems to be the opposite of this. Freshly washed I can get my hair to do just about anything, especially if I start while it's slightly damp still. If I try anything with it the day after it's just won't cooperate. It feels a little oil, slick maybe, but few hair things will stay in my hair at that point, except bare rubber bands. In general my hair is very fine, silky to the touch. I have found that if I only use a conditioner on my hair maybe once a week my hair behaves and has some tooth to it so I can do things with it more. So sometimes when I want to put it up and I want it to stay there, I'll use a sport gel while my hair is a little damp. Sometimes a light mist of hair spray before I braid will help as well. It seems to goes through phases so what works in say the summer doesn't work in the winter... alex On 11/14/06, MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: It also helps not to wash your hair the same day you want to do this. Perfectly clean hair tends to slip out of tight arrangements. MaggiRos --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this > problem, since I have > it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing > I've tried seems > able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. > Argh! In fact, > back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm > for more than a > week or two. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Quoting Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: museum. There seems to be a French Hood frame there too, but it's like no French Hood shape I've ever seen. There are two MoL wire frames possibly from French hoods that are pictured in The Age of Transition: The Archaeology of English Culture 1400-1600. They're very similar. Is this what you're referring to? Each of them has a little ball on both ends of the curve and a spot at each side about temple level where the wire makes a small loop before continuing on the rest of the curve. My theory for this is that the little loops in the wire are anchor points for firmly attaching the wire to the foundation of the crescent. When I used it this way in my hood, it worked very well. Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
Suzi Clarke wrote: Gable headdresses seem to have been made on a metal wire frame. The one I made for the Museum of London was based on a copy of the frame in the museum. <...> If you want to see it, go here. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Vermeer1.jpg Very pretty! Do the falls in back extend from the two bottom sides of the square in back as they do in the Holbein drawing? They look like they're hanging a little straighter than that. What did you use for stiffening besides the wire frame? Just curious, Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Hair
Hair spray. It's sticky and even holds my fly away hair. (It does get "crunchy", though.) :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 3:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. Argh! In fact, back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a week or two. I've considered the french braid thing, but haven't tried it for years--my hair may be long enough again that it'd work now (~3 inches past waist). Which leads to my other problem: since I'm growing out my hair sans trimming, I now have about 6 inches of natural layering (and split ends), which means that when I try to hide the ends of my braids, they poke out all over the place and look awful. It seems like the french braid idea would make it even harder to hide the ends, since there really wouldn't be any place to tuck them out of sight. Any bright ideas? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Hair
My favorite is Suave Freeze Finish Hair Spray. (Professionals Freeze Hold Finishing Non-Aerosol Hair Spray) It leaves the hair very, very secure, but not overly crunch and it still looks natural! We got a whole bunch of sample bottles a long time ago, and they've lasted well. One bottle got stuck to the counter when it leaked. ;-) It's known as hair glue around here! Also, for that slick, fly away hair (I worked with some tonight, actually!) try it when it's at the 'filthy' stage, or at least when it's wet. It also can be in the technique - I've gotten hair into buns that nobody has ever though possible before. The first pin has to almost hold the entire thin (important on any updo) and then the rest are just security. Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, Elisabeth -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sharon at Collierfam.com Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 8:18 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hair Hair spray. It's sticky and even holds my fly away hair. (It does get "crunchy", though.) :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 3:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have it too. My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. Argh! In fact, back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a week or two. I've considered the french braid thing, but haven't tried it for years--my hair may be long enough again that it'd work now (~3 inches past waist). Which leads to my other problem: since I'm growing out my hair sans trimming, I now have about 6 inches of natural layering (and split ends), which means that when I try to hide the ends of my braids, they poke out all over the place and look awful. It seems like the french braid idea would make it even harder to hide the ends, since there really wouldn't be any place to tuck them out of sight. Any bright ideas? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.5/534 - Release Date: 11/14/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.5/534 - Release Date: 11/14/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
