Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Emily Gilbert]

Thanks!  I've only had one design published so far (the A Second Chance 
for Mr. Rushworth Socks in the 2014 issue of Jane Austen Knits 
magazine), but I have a shawl pattern that I'm hoping to publish 
independently soon.  My Ravelry name is LadySylvia; the sock pattern is 
linked from my profile, and the shawl will be put up for sale there.

http://www.ravelry.com/designers/emily-gilbert

Emily


On 12/17/2015 11:59 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote:

  As a fellow knitter I’d be very interested to know about your designs. Do you 
have a Rav name?

==Marjorie Wilser


On Dec 17, 2015, at 12:40 PM, Emily Gilbert <emchantm...@gmail.com> wrote:

Having heard Ann's talk at the JASNA AGM, I can confirm that it was excellent 
in person too!

I'm still here too.  I haven't been doing much sewing lately, aside from making 
a chemisette to go with my Regency day dress this fall; most of my creative 
energies these days are focused on knitting design.

Emily


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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Emily Gilbert]

Having heard Ann's talk at the JASNA AGM, I can confirm that it was 
excellent in person too!


I'm still here too.  I haven't been doing much sewing lately, aside from 
making a chemisette to go with my Regency day dress this fall; most of 
my creative energies these days are focused on knitting design.


Emily


On 12/17/2015 8:38 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

I have been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to admit I 
don't read them.


I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave at the Jane 
Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in Louisville in 
October.



http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Robin Netherton 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 9:33 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) was rejected.On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:> Hi 
all,>> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the link below does not work.>> Thanks!> 
-Carol> ___>> h-costume mailing list>> h-costume@mail.indra.com>> 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>> ___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>-- Robin NethertonEditor, Medieval Clothing and 
Textilesrobin@netherton.netvoice: (314) 439-1222Life is just a bowl of queries.___h-costume mailing 
listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] spam (was need help with Butterick B6074)

[Emily Gilbert]

Oops!  Sorry about that.  Good to know the filter does that - now I know 
not to use spam in a subject line!


Emily


On 3/6/2015 12:47 PM, Elena House wrote:

Heh, when you put 'spam' in the title, my gmail seems to automatically put
it in the spam folder, as it did with this thread.   That might even
technically be irony!   (I only saw  rescued it because I was looking for
something else.  Apparently when your business is named 'Ambitious Rubbish'
it also sets off the spam filter a bit too often)

-E House

On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 9:43 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com
wrote:


The pirate mouse on my Google account? Yes, I've made a number of little
costumed mice (although I'm not doing much with them at the moment).
They're about 5 tall and very cute, if I do say so myself!  : )

Emily



On 2/27/2015 6:52 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:


And I thought it was just my spam in gmail... I check every other day or
so, or whenever I feel I'm missing part of the conversation.

Emily, I love your little mouse picture! Is it something you made?
LynnD

On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 1:26 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com
wrote:

  On 2/27/2015 2:12 PM, Sybella wrote:

  Hm. It looks like the list is only sending me some of the messages in

this
conversation. Charlene took a quote from Ann's but I never received
Ann's
message at all! I wonder what else I'm missing. :(


  Ann's messages tend to go into my spam folder for some reason - Gmail's

security settings don't seem to like them.  I've taken to checking my
spam
every day so I can rescue anything that's not supposed to be in there.

Emily
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Re: [h-cost] spam (was need help with Butterick B6074)

[Emily Gilbert]

The pirate mouse on my Google account? Yes, I've made a number of little 
costumed mice (although I'm not doing much with them at the moment).  
They're about 5 tall and very cute, if I do say so myself!  : )


Emily


On 2/27/2015 6:52 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:

And I thought it was just my spam in gmail... I check every other day or
so, or whenever I feel I'm missing part of the conversation.

Emily, I love your little mouse picture! Is it something you made?
LynnD

On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 1:26 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com
wrote:


On 2/27/2015 2:12 PM, Sybella wrote:


Hm. It looks like the list is only sending me some of the messages in this
conversation. Charlene took a quote from Ann's but I never received Ann's
message at all! I wonder what else I'm missing. :(



Ann's messages tend to go into my spam folder for some reason - Gmail's
security settings don't seem to like them.  I've taken to checking my spam
every day so I can rescue anything that's not supposed to be in there.

Emily
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Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074

[Emily Gilbert]

Well, for starters, the skirt gathers should all be at the back.  You 
want the front of the skirt to be smooth and flat.  The bodice, on the 
other hand, should be gathered in front, over the bust, and smooth at 
the back.  (The shaping of the bodice pieces doesn't look quite right 
either, but I'm not enough of a pattern drafter to give advice on how to 
change them.)


Emily


On 2/27/2015 12:13 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me 
if this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be 
changed to make it HA?


Thanks,

Carmen

On 2/26/2015 11:25 PM, Sybella wrote:

Well, I don't own this pattern and can't find a copy of the instructions
online. But I'll give a stab at it. :)

Looking at the Butterick site at the images for this regency gown, it 
looks
like one ribbon goes in a casing on the neckline as a draw-string 
tie, one
on the sleeve end and another under the bust. The latter two also 
through

casings but sewn in at the seam or hem.

For closure, the neckline ribbon is tied in the back and the hook and 
eye

is in place the lower casing. (In another view, both casings have
draw-string ties.)

So, I think the narrow grosgrain ribbon is for the neckline. The 
5/8th for
the sleeve ends, and the 7/8th for the under-bust, where you'd want 
that to

not to twist.


http://butterick.mccall.com/b6074-products-48593.php?page_id=385



On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com 
wrote:



It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm
finding this one confusing.

It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8.

The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, 
and 66.


What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which 
step.
I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 
(attach

skirt to bodice)  and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline).

Can anyone confirm this?

At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it 
will

make more sense when I try it.

I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know
there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the 
neckline.
What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center 
front; does

it wrap to the back and tie?

DEFINITELY not my usual time period.

Thanks,
Charlene
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Re: [h-cost] spam (was need help with Butterick B6074)

[Emily Gilbert]

On 2/27/2015 2:12 PM, Sybella wrote:

Hm. It looks like the list is only sending me some of the messages in this
conversation. Charlene took a quote from Ann's but I never received Ann's
message at all! I wonder what else I'm missing. :(



Ann's messages tend to go into my spam folder for some reason - Gmail's 
security settings don't seem to like them.  I've taken to checking my 
spam every day so I can rescue anything that's not supposed to be in there.


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] anyone here

[Emily Gilbert]

That sounds really interesting!  I'll have to sign up for it.

(Sorry I didn't see this sooner - it went into my spam folder.)

Emily


On 1/20/2015 12:47 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

Unfortunately, they got three times as many submissions as they could take. 
Mine is called,
“I Am the Neatest Worker of the Party”: Making and Mending the Family’s Wardrobe

Ann Wass

  

  

  


-Original Message-
From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Jan 20, 2015 1:25 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] anyone here


On 1/15/2015 5:11 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

I'm also presenting a paper at the Jane Austen Society of North America's

Annual General Meeting in Louisville in October.

Neat!  I submitted a breakout proposal for the Louisville AGM (my first
time doing so), but didn't get accepted.  What's your paper on?

Emily

   


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Re: [h-cost] anyone here

[Emily Gilbert]

On 1/15/2015 5:11 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

I'm also presenting a paper at the Jane Austen Society of North America's 
Annual General Meeting in Louisville in October.


Neat!  I submitted a breakout proposal for the Louisville AGM (my first 
time doing so), but didn't get accepted.  What's your paper on?


Emily

 


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Re: [h-cost] Loot-n-Booty Report, 2013

[Emily Gilbert]

I got the Regency Wardrobe pattern from La Mode Bagatelle - pattern 
pieces for several different skirt, bodice, and sleeve styles (plus 
accessories) that can be put together into a huge range of different 
garments!  My aunt and uncle also sent me a silk shawl that they bought 
in Tanzania, which is going to go very nicely with the fabric I'm 
planning to use to make a dress from the above pattern.  It's all 
connected. : )


Emily


On 12/26/2013 4:31 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

Nobody has started this thread yet? Amazing, 8-)

Well... Medieval Clothing and Textiles #9, thanks to a coupon that brought the 
price down to what the DH could stand!
Dress Accessories, 1150-1450 (finally)
Wearing the Cloak, Dressing the Soldier in Roman Times (this goes with 
post-Roman Arthuriana)

and, OT, a Jayne cap!  as per Firefly, see at 
http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/f108/   of course, I don't have the 
accompanying firepower to REALLY complete the look, but Himself was satisfied 
that it was a COMPLETE surprise, 8-)  I had even opened the delivery pkg by 
mistake and not really recognized it, and had completely forgotten making 
whatever joke about it when we originally saw it!  100% acrylic and it is 
actually warm in the drafty house!

and a cookery book, and a history book, and a couple of comic-strip/manga 
collections, and a couple of children's books from my eternal-list... Himself 
was wailing about how I have to provide him with MORE NON-book ideas! So I also 
have a couple of jigsaw puzzles, 8-); now I just have to find time to DO them! 
And get past bridling when teh boyz push in to HELP me go FASTER!

Hope you all got stuff you wanted/ liked/ were surprised by/ had other positive 
reactions to, 8-)

Hoppy Gnu Year!
chimene
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Re: [h-cost] Regency era beard

[Emily Gilbert]

That's my impression too.  I believe Bright Star is set a little later 
than the usual Regency era (c. 1820), but that's still a time when 
gentlemen would have been wearing sideburns, not beards.


Emily


On 12/2/2013 4:05 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

The other week I watched the film Bright star on TV. I loved the
costumes, especially Fanny Brawne's high-fashion Regency outfits, but I
found Charles Brown's beard incongruous. Surely a gentleman would not have
worn a full beard in that era? I always understood that they came back into
fashion in the mid-19th century.

Kate Bunting
Retired librarian  17th century reenactor.
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Re: [h-cost] Cross dressing documentation - pre 1600

[Emily Gilbert]

I think you mean Twelfth Night, not The Tempest.  As You Like It has the 
woman-dressing-as-a-boy thing too.


Emily


On 10/6/2013 8:13 PM, hippy_dippy_dan...@yahoo.com wrote:

There are several late periOd ilustrtions of ottomanentertainers performing 
dressed as women nd of course no womam played the womens roles in Shakespears plays 
though the tempest does feature a woman dressing as a boy to protect herself an find 
work. There is plenty of proof of crossdressing in period
Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®

-Original Message-
From: Elizabeth Jones elizabethrjones2...@gmail.com
Sender: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2013 12:06:21
To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com
Reply-To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cross dressing documentation - pre 1600

Does anyone have SCA period (i.e. medieval to 1600) images or
documentation referring to cross dressing. I am in the early stages of
trying to organise a Bob and Kate feast around this time next year
(for those unfamiliar with the concept the name comes from the episode
of Blackadder II episode 'bells' in which a young woman named Kate
disguises herself as a boy called Bob to become Blackadder's
manservant http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bells_%28Blackadder%29 so
obviously it's about cross dressing). It has to be in October as it's
supposed to be a fundraiser for the Ovarian Cancer foundation's
'Frocktober' campaign (www.frocktober.org). A year's lead time means I
hopefully have enough time to get people OK with, or maybe even
excited about, the idea of cross dressing my two basic strategies are
telling people that it's for a good cause and showing them that it's
period (at least in certain circumstances). The 'it's period' part is
where I need the help of you lovely people to dig out all of those
obscure sources you have tucked away.

Thanks for your help in advance,
Elizabeth
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Re: [h-cost] Victorian flat leghorn hat

[Emily Gilbert]

I'm not an expert on this topic, but looking at the link to the fashion 
notes for the year, which refer to the curious and startling 
open-crowned coronet bonnet (toward the bottom of the left-hand column 
on that page), I'd say it's reasonably safe to assume that your leghorn 
does have a crown!


Emily


On 9/17/2013 2:11 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:

Hi,
Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the leghorn flat, since 
the written description calls it a flat. (It's Fig. 2 in the descriptions here.)
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=185

So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous 
interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was shaped, 
and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out!

The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn flat 
has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits the 
wearer's fancy. 
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=86

I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the definition of 
leghorn seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping to use millinery 
wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put.

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net



On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:


As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of. Also,
that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat!


On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.netwrote:


Hi,
Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm recreating
as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with
19th-century millinery about the hat. It's  an 1889 flat leghorn,
according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat
crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one.
(figure on the right):
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109
Any thoughts?
Thank you!
(The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I
got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board and
plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full
project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.)

Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat
nightmare.
Lauren


Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net




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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Emily Gilbert]

By any chance, is the ballgown for the JASNA AGM at the end of this 
month?  If so, I'll be there too. I'm not making a new ballgown, but I 
do want to come up with something new to put in my hair.


Emily


On 9/10/2013 1:20 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

She should be wearing a red Regency-era ballgown that I need to finish by the 
end of the month--it is in pieces, and I need to finish the bodice and try the 
skirt for length. It's a new pattern, so I'm not sure how much hem I will have. 
 And, not on my dummy, but also in progress, a turban to match that gown. This 
is also a sample for the turban workshop I'll be giving at the Gadsby's Tavern 
costume symposium in Alexandria, VA, on Sept. 27.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com
To: H-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2013 1:01 pm
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?


It's been forever since I asked my seasonal question, so here it is:
It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties,
winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair,
theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You
might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's
your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in
your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the
sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop.
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Re: [h-cost] the first fashion book

[Emily Gilbert]

That is fascinating!  Thanks for sharing the link.

Emily


On 6/10/2013 7:44 AM, snsp...@aol.com wrote:


Feature on the first fashion book written by a 16th-century accountant in 
Augsburg, Germany:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-22766029


Nancy

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Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants

[Emily Gilbert]

The only contribution I can make is that in Arthur Ransome's Swallows 
and Amazons books, written and set in the 1930s, a small boy (Roger) is 
described as wearing knickerbockers.


Emily


On 3/20/2013 3:05 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote:


Ah the wonderful vagaries of fashion terms. Here's what I believe the 
evolution is:


18th and early 19th century: the general term for pants that end at 
the knee is knee breeches--or just plain breeches (let's not go back 
to Elizabethan trunk hose, etc. now!)


1809: Washington Irving publishes his satirical take on history and 
politics titled A History of New York from the Beginning of the World 
to the End of the Dutch Dynasty, by Diedrich Knickerbocker. The 
frontispiece sports an image of a patrician-looking elder gentleman 
wearing knee breeches. (Irving also begins an amusing hoax related to 
the whereabouts of Mr. Knickerbocker that has the effect of boosting 
sales of the book.)


1810-1840: the name is picked up by the public to refer to New 
Yorkers, particularly gentleman of the old school variety.


1840s: the New York Knickerbockers baseball team is formed. They adopt 
the uniform of a white flannel shirt and blue wool (long!) pants. No 
knickers yet.


mid-19th century: boys wear short pants - not shaped quite like knee 
breeches, but not as baggy as later knickerbockers either. The OED 
dates the use of knickerbocker for the baggy variety dates to 1859. 
And then there's the gentleman's country wear, the knickerbocker suit, 
of the late 1860s-1870s. Let's also throw in the baggy pants developed 
by Amelia Bloomer for the women's dress reform movement which were 
baggy but originally ankle length. They got shorter at the end of the 
century and were especially popular for women bicyclists, in fact the 
OED cites knickerbocker ladies as meaning women cyclists. And when 
do baseball uniforms move to shorter baggy pants that are called 
knickerbockers...hmmm...


1872: reference to women's under drawers as knickerbockers, followed 
by 1895 reference to satin knickerbockers. Other references also refer 
to the younger girls drawers as knickers at about this time.


Here's where it gets fuzzy: by WWI the uniform was characterized by 
what we would term knickerbockers. At about the same time, boys by the 
early 20th century boys pants were short and baggy. By the 1920s 
golfers adopted the short baggy look but there's were 4 inches longer 
than knickerbockers, hence the label plus fours. Knickers were also 
the staple of baseball and football uniforms. And by 1926 we have a 
reference to French knickers a British/American term for ladies tap 
pants or short, elastic waist, baggy open leg drawers. (Think Busby 
Berkley dancers or 30s film stars underwear.)


They made a come-back in the 1960s after 1950s ankle pants shortened 
to pedal pushers. Knickers were always characterized as baggier and 
drawn in at the knee.



Whew! There you have it--what a fun look at this garment. Oh, but back 
to your original question: it looks like knickers would not be the 
correct term for any knee-length garment before the late 1850s.


- Hope






War days.
Is knickers the correct term for men's knee breeches in




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Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments exhibit

[Emily Gilbert]

Count me in!

Emily

On 1/29/2013 11:50 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:

All who have expressed interest here so far are on the list ;) and I promise to 
keep h-cost updated as well.

Astrida
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Re: [h-cost] Sir Edmund Verney's gold doublet

[Emily Gilbert]

I'm charmed that this photo is titled Godl Doublet!

Emily


On 1/13/2013 3:51 AM, Catherine Walton wrote:
To wish everyone on this list a bright New Year, I'm sending you this 
link to a photo of a brilliant garment, which I came across recently 
by some serendipity:-


exhibition of Sir Edmund's gold doublet, circa 1633
http://www.thesandells.net/2012/WarwickBuckinghamMarch/godldoublet.html

It can be seen at Claydon House
http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/claydon/

And I'd like to thank everyone for all their intriguing and wise 
contributions over the years.  It's because of the many things I've 
discovered and the approaches to analysis I've learned that I'm now 
enjoying my first year as a student of art history at Oxford 
University.  You're all wonderful !


Catherine Linda Walton, (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
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[h-cost] JASNA conference

[Emily Gilbert]

Not precisely costume-related, but is anyone else planning to attend the 
Jane Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in New 
York City, Oct. 5-7?  I'm going for the first time, and I wondered if 
any of you might be there.


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] What is a Whip?

[Emily Gilbert]

My guess is that it means the person driving the coach or carriage.  A 
century earlier, during the Regency era, someone who was good at driving 
a horse or horses was called a notable whip.


Emily


On 6/27/2012 11:41 PM, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote:

I am working with a 1914 etiquette book and a person titled Whip is used in
the section about Dress When Driving.  What / Who is a Whip in this context?



Men who are guests on a coach wear morning or afternoon dress according to
the hour of the day on which the vehicle makes its start.  The whip, if the
host of the occasion, is usually arrayed in distinctive costume.  A gray
suit is the usual selection for spring and summer, brown is a frequent
choice for the autumn..  In the country, and in summer, a gentleman whip
wears a light colored and light-weight suit, with brown shoes and gloves and
a straw or panama hat.



For touring, or driving an automobile.No ceremonious costume for men has yet
been evolved to approximate, in style and completeness, the formal dress an
amateur whip wears.



Penny Ladnier, owner

The Costume Gallery Websites

  http://www.costumegallery.com/  www.costumegallery.com

15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history

FaceBook:http://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery
http://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery



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Re: [h-cost] OP - Pret-a-Papier, Isabelle de Borchagrave exhibit

[Emily Gilbert]

Those are astonishing!

By the way, the fourth photo down is labeled a dress based on a 1730 
design, but it looks to me more like a gentleman's banyan over a 
waistcoat.  What do you all think?


Emily


On 6/26/2012 2:55 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

Oh, I do waste so much time these days skimming the Daily Mail gossip articles, 
8-), BUT~ !!! Sometimes you find things like this:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2164388/Pret-papier-The-incredible-period-gowns-recreated-paper-glue-paint--stitch-fabric.html

related article at the WaPo: 
http://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/museums/art-explained/2012/06/22/gJQAIiTFvV_story.html

and the Museum website where the exhibit is:  http://www.hillwoodmuseum.org/
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Re: [h-cost] Audio slideshow of a costume workshop

[Emily Gilbert]

Wow!  There's so much to drool over in that slideshow.  I kept pausing 
it to get a better look at the costumes as they went by.


Emily


On 4/11/2012 3:23 PM, Linda Walton wrote:
A costume drama at Sands Films studios – audio slideshow | Film | 
guardian.co.uk


http://www.guardian.co.uk/film/audioslideshow/2012/apr/11/sands-films-studios-audio-slideshow 



A costume drama at Sands Films studios – audio slideshow:

'This is where an actor meets their character for the first time,' 
hears David Levene as he visits the costume workshop in south London. 
Along with making period costumes for forthcoming films, the studio is 
preparing for a European exhibition of its work for productions 
including Little Dorrit (1988) and Bright Star (2009). It is currently 
creating costumes for the film adaptation of Les Misérables.


Enjoy!
Linda Walton (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).


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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker​'s dummy wearing today?

[Emily Gilbert]

I'm working on the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay (which, 
incidentally, I do not recommend as a pattern unless you already know 
what you're doing - the instructions are very vague and confusing in 
several crucial areas).  I got myself into a major muddle with the 
initial round of fitting, and I've just bought another length of the 
fabric I'm using (off-white cotton duck) so I can cut out the main body 
pieces again and start over.  This gives me just under two weeks till 
the time I need to have the stays done, so hopefully I'll be able to 
make it...


Emily

On 3/12/2012 8:27 PM, Cin wrote:

It's that time of year when the calendar is full of spring teas,
summer holidays, Titanic era parties, winter balls, company dinners,
the spring theater season, LARP goodness. You might even be planning a
sojourn to thrilling foreign locale.  Whatever the reason, h-costumers
are probably making something.  So, what's your dressmaker's dummy
wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in
your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the
sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop.
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Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute

[Emily Gilbert]

Thanks for your input, everyone!  It sounds like I'd be best off using 
coutil or something similar, Saundra's recommendation notwithstanding.


Emily


On 2/6/2012 7:00 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:
According to Montgomery, Textiles in America, Nankeen is a cotton 
cloth of plain weave originally sold at Nankin in China and made from 
a yellow variety of cotton... At least by the mid-eighteenth 
century, in the Manchester area it was made of ordinary cotton dyed 
yellow. Swatch number 62 in Holker's manuscript is nankeen suitable 
for men's waistcoats and trousers which he says wears very well. (see 
page 308 for more details)


You might try to find coutil, which is made specifically made for 
corsets. It's fairly lightweight, but very strong.


Joan Jurancich
joa...@surewest.net

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[h-cost] nankeen substitute

[Emily Gilbert]

Hello all,

I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay.  It 
says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and 
that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but 
doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead.  Does anyone 
know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation?


Thanks!
Emily
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Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute

[Emily Gilbert]

Lightweight cotton sheeting?  It's a good thing I asked - I was thinking 
more along the lines of a sturdy twill!


Emily


On 2/6/2012 1:00 PM, Katy Bishop wrote:

I asked Saundra the same question and she recommended a cotton
sheeting.  It has to be lightweight.

Katy

On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 1:37 PM, Emily Gilbertemchantm...@gmail.com  wrote:

Hello all,

I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay.  It says
that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that
nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't
offer any suggestions as to what to use instead.  Does anyone know what kind
of fabric would give me the closest approximation?

Thanks!
Emily
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Re: [h-cost] What costume-related gifts did you get?

[Emily Gilbert]

I got Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1660-1860, Nineteenth Century 
Fashion in Detail (a VA book with absolutely stunning photographs), and 
After a Fashion by our own Fran, which looks like one of the most useful 
general reference books a costumer could have!


I also got the Roumanian Blouse pattern from Folkwear, and a Joann 
Fabrics gift card - not historical, but still costume-related.


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] doll costuming

[Emily Gilbert]

Hi Claudine,

Websites, books, patterns, etc. that you've found useful.  I'm more 
interested in making clothing for an existing doll than in making the 
doll itself, and I'd prefer the kind of doll that's proportioned as an 
adult woman.  I've read the book Sewing Victorian Doll Clothes: 
Authentic Costumes from Museum Collections, by Michelle Hamilton, and 
found it very interesting.


Thanks!
Emily


On 12/10/2011 10:29 AM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote:

Hi Emily,

I've done some doll costuming. What kind of resources are you looking for?



Claudine






From: Emily Gilbertemchantm...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 8:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] doll costuming

I know some people on this list do doll costuming as well as the full-sized 
version.  Can you recommend any good resources for the curious novice?

Emily
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Re: [h-cost] What's on your Christmas wish list?

[Emily Gilbert]

My list usually tends heavily toward books, too.  This year I'm planning 
to ask for Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion: 1660-1860 (believe it or 
not, I've never even read it!), and a VA book called 19th Century 
Fashion in Detail that apparently has gorgeous photographs.


Emily


On 11/5/2011 2:57 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

For costume-related gifts, I usually ask for books. Here's my list.

From Minos to Midas: Ancient Cloth Production in the Aegean and in 
Anatolia


SPANISH FASHION IN EARLY MODERN EUROPE: The Prevelance and Prestige of 
Spanish Attire in the Courts of the 16th and 17th Centuries (but the 
release date is unclear)


Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns: Book 2 (release date also 
unclear)


The Empire's New Clothes: A History of the Russian Fashion Industry, 
1700-1917


Facing Beauty: Painted Women and Cosmetic Art (release date unclear)

War and Worship: Textiles from 3rd to 4th-Century AD Weapon Deposits 
in Denmark and Northern Germany


Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on making historic clothing
http://www.lavoltapress.com
http://www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress
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Re: [h-cost] somewhat OT fabric question

[Emily Gilbert]

I've seen references in Regency novels to dogskin gloves, which I always 
assumed was leather made from the hide of a dog, like kidskin.  If it 
turns out that it was a fabric, I'll feel much better!


Emily


On 10/30/2011 10:24 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

Hello the list:

I'm directing a production of Conor McPherson's The Seafarer, and one 
of the characters claims to be wearing a Versace jacket made of 
dogskin. He clarifies that it's a kind of fabric, and another 
character feels the sleeve and remarks on its softness.


I'm sure McPherson doesn't mean houndstooth, although I did find a 
picture of a Versace tuxedo-style jacket supposedly in houndstooth but 
looking distinctly solid-black to me. Certainly the Broadway 
production, which McPherson directed, didn't have a character in a 
houndstooth-check jacket.


Can't find an answer on the Internet. Does anyone know of a fabric 
with this name?


Thank you for any help!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Emily Gilbert]

Oh, you lucky!  I wish I were close enough to attend.  That event they 
did last August with people being Jane Austen characters sounds even 
more fun.  Did you attend that?


Emily


On 10/6/2011 3:39 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote:


I've done talks in various places about this period, usually couched 
in terms of fashion and Jane Austen. This particular occasion will 
be extra fun. A local BB, the Governor's House in Hyde Park, VT, 
offers 4 Jane Austen weekends throughout the year focusing on one book 
and then a topic related to Austen's period 
(http://www.onehundredmain.com/calendar2.cfm).


There's a Friday evening talk, Saturday tea, dinner and book 
discussion, and Sunday brunch and quiz. Next year's book is Emma and 
the general topic will be the fashion of the times. So, I'll be doing 
the talks and decided I needed a multi-day wardrobe for each of the 4 
weekends which are each in a different season! Buying the fabric and 
designing the gowns was fun, but actually creating them now is a bit 
daunting.


- Hope

annbw...@aol.com wrote:


I need to make for  Federal/Empire/Regency wardrobe I have to finish 
by mid-January.


What is the occasion for this lovely wardrobe?



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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Emily Gilbert]

I'm almost finished with the first of two quasi-Victorian skirts for the 
local historic house, which doesn't do much costumed stuff at the moment 
but would like to.  I offered my sewing skills, and they gave me the 
patterns and fabric and said Go to it!  The skirt I'm on now is a 
heavy burgundy fabric, slightly upholstery-looking.  The other one will 
be taupe with black braid.


Emily


On 10/4/2011 3:44 PM, Cin wrote:

It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties,
winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair,
theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You
might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's
your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in
your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the
sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] Fashion/costume wall calendars for 2012

[Emily Gilbert]

They barely have fashions pre-1900 - except for the corsets...

Emily


On 9/28/2011 10:45 AM, Bonnie Booker wrote:

Still no fashions pre-1600?



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Re: [h-cost] Book Covers

[Emily Gilbert]

Slightly OT, but a friend of mine writes YA fantasy, and while her first 
few covers were a little dubious, she's really pleased with the designs 
for her upcoming book and for a new edition of another one.  She says 
for once the cover pictures actually look like her heroines.


Emily

On 9/26/2011 4:41 PM, Monica Spence wrote:

I, too, write romances, and I've been fighting the bodice ripper label for
years. To me, bad book covers are on the same level as poorly done
historical costumes or bad SCA garb. ( I teach Costume History on the
college level  and my husband and I are in the SCA, so I know from whence I
speak.)

There is a silver lining in bad book covers. That cover with the three limbs
allowed Christina Dodd cover approval for her novels. Likewise, my friend
Kristan Higgins got cover control when the artist put the wrong breed of dog
on her book cover.

Of course, it helps if you are a bestselling New York Times author.

Other authors I know must rely on the generosity of the cover gods. :-)
Some have really been blessed.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Valerie Robertson
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:39 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Book Covers

Um, you guys know that bodice ripper is considered insulting by romance
writers, right?  Kind of like costume nazi among historical clothing
researchers.  And since I'm a published romance novelist (science fiction,
so the clothes aren't a problem) and have been researching historical
clothing for more than two decades, I feel qualified to make the comparison.


As far as getting the dress correct on book covers, in 1993 Christina Dodd
became infamous because of a cover that went to press with the heroine
having THREE ARMS. If Avon, the leading US publisher of historical romances,
couldn't get the number of limbs correct with all their editors and a full
art department, do you really think they even care if the dress details are
correct?


For the record, the dress sucked; 14th century kirtle with bell sleeves
gathered at her left wrist in a ruffle--yes, a ruffle--at one right wrist
without a ruffle, and no cuff, gathering band, ruffle, or sleeve visible at
all at the other right wrist. The hero is wearing a Templar tunic, or it
might be a white tunic with a red Maltese cross on it (cue eyelid twitch).


Of course, that book is a collector's item now and resells for hundreds of
dollars, but still, they failed at counting to two.

Got seams in the wrong place...visible zipper lines...wrong kind of lacing
for the period...neckline that defies physics? Well, yes.

Does she have two arms? Hey, it's all good.


Valerie Robertson
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Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

[Emily Gilbert]

My personal frustration with novels of historical fiction is when the 
publishers take a piece of real art work from a period, and use it for the 
another, completely wrong period.
This happened to some extent with the recent reissue of Georgette 
Heyer's Georgian and Regency novels.  The publishers used actual 
paintings for the covers, and some of them were fine, but others had a 
Georgian gentleman in a powdered wig on the cover of a Regency-set book, 
or a lady in an Empire dress on a book set a couple of decades earlier.


One of my pet peeves is when a mass-market Regency romance cover 
includes children - the adults' costumes are usually at least passable, 
but the little girls tend to be dressed in party frocks and Mary Janes.


Emily

On 9/26/2011 7:36 AM, Monica Spence wrote:

Sometimes covers are even reused. Sometimes a certain model is popular (aka:
Fabio). Romance novel covers go through  phases. Right now  there is a trend
for headless women (what does THAT say?). Other covers feature a shirtless
man-- with or without tattoos.

The frustrating thing for an author is the cover. She tell the publisher how
she envisions a cover, and gets the exact opposite.  My friend got a
contract for a book and sent exact ideas (man: James bond type, in a good
suit and tie). What she got was a skinny, shirtless, guy with a medallion
around his neck.  Let's  say she was not happy.  My personal frustration
with novels of historical fiction is when the publishers take a piece of
real art work from a period, and use it for the another, completely wrong
period.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bambi TBNL
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 7:51 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

Often times the costume is orderd in a certain  artist model size, color
optional. Who designs it is between the writer , the artist and the
publisher, the costumes ia not seen as a designer/historian but as  the
seamstress who almost never has any more info than an artist sketch which
they expect precise compliance with. The suggestion tha alteration in this
might provide something more *..historically accurate, pleasing, tasteful,
is at best met with  we are not flexible on this matter and at worst with
the business being conducted elsewhere , ( where their order is filled no
questions asked, -Original Message-
Date: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:27:20 am
To: 'Historical Costume'h-cost...@indra.com
From: Sharon Colliersha...@collierfam.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

I'm curious--does anyone know the answer to this question? Do the artists
who draw the covers of romance novels just come up with a costume out of
their head, or do they pose the models in a costume from a costume warehouse
or something? Some novels' covers look almost like photos; the costumes are
horrible, but very detailed.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Patricia Dunham
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 6:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

Just ran across, by accident, 2 new CECELIA HOLLAND's -- hooray.  THEN I
looked them up online and the covers -- argh!  Obviously art-directed at the
bodice ripper set!

The King's Witch is a Richard II period piece with a not-very-good Ren-faire
wench in green, @
http://www.amazon.com/Kings-Witch-Cecelia-Holland/dp/0425241300/ref=ntt_at_e
p_dpt_2.

And The Secret Eleanor [of Acquitaine], which cover is better but

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Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress

[Emily Gilbert]

Our dean keeps saying that Academic Dress (tm) is unchanged since the 
14th Century -- I want to know what 14th C Academic Dress looks like! 
I've always thought that some of the robes worn by my dad's colleagues 
at Commencement  - especially the ones that have velvet trim and a 
floppy hat instead of the mortarboard - wouldn't look out of place at a 
Renaissance Faire!  : )


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] Dressing a Victorian Lady

[Emily Gilbert]

Way cool!  I know of one or two writers who really should have consulted 
something like that...


Emily


On 7/20/2011 6:09 AM, Sharon Henderson wrote:

Hi folks,

I saw this on the Wall Street Journal site, of all places.  It's an
article with a slideshow and an amusing video, about a lady who writes
historical romances--and wanted to get her steamy scenes right.  :)

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304911104576443871615544338.html

Fun stuff.  I've seen a similar show for how Queen Elizabeth I would
have been dressed by her ladies.

Cheers,
Meli
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Re: [h-cost] Wooden busk for Regency corset

[Gilbert]

Since I was pressed for cash, I made my busk from two Sherwin William paint
stirrers and wrapped them in muslin. Though Home Depot's stirrers were nicer
and I could have used just one of them, the Sherwin William's stirrers were
there requisite 14 inches long. And they were free... The busk came out
rather nicely, I think--though far plainer than the scrimshawed whalebone
one Herman Melville brought back from his adventures in whaling. 

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN,
a novel set in Georgian England
Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009 
http://www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://yearofeatingnaturally.blogspot.com/
http://marjoriegilbert.blogspot.com/

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Re: [h-cost] the school of historical dress

[Emily Gilbert]

London!  Aaugh!  When I started reading, I was hoping it was in the US.  
Somebody needs to start a branch over here!


Emily


On 5/18/2011 10:11 AM, Franchesca wrote:


I just had to share ..

the school of historical dress
http://theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/

This new school has a curriculum that will cover all aspects of the
designing and making of historical costume for theatre, cinema and the
living history movement; its unique approach will focus on developing the
skills and understanding needed to create new generations of historical
tailors, seamstresses and other specialists.
All teaching will be from practitioners who are actively working in various
related areas of dress - cutters, tailors, sewers, designers and historians.

Our aim is to promote the study of historical dress and textiles by the
students, both of the Western World and of other cultures, and to base such
study on primary evidence, in particular, by studying and understanding
surviving clothing supported by written sources and visual (portraits,
sculptures etc). The school will encourage new research into historical
dress and introduce students to the tools needed for this, such as how to
study an object, identify its materials, cut, construction and historical
context, and then how to document the object by pattern taking, drawing and
photography. Students will then be taught to make such garments themselves.

The school will house the Janet Arnold Archive, including her unique and
extensive colour slide collection of both surviving clothing and related
images.
The Hopkins Collection of surviving garments and textiles from c.1700 to
1950 will bring further riches. This large collection, gathered over forty
years by Alan and Vanessa Hopkins, includes examples of the dress of men and
women from all social classes.
Together with other such resources, these collections will be actively used
in the classroom. They will form the basis for projects and students will
have the opportunity to handle objects as part of their studies.
The school is based in London and will initially be offering several short
courses in the autumn of 2011, including an introductory course and a study
day.

directors - jenny tiramani, santina m. levey, vanessa hopkins
associate teachers - luca costigliolo, alan hopkins, claire thornton,
harriet barsby

to join their mailing list and receive updates on our events and courses
please write to i...@theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk


Franchesca



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Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress I made last year

[Gilbert]

That is beautiful! Thank you for sharing!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN,
a novel set in Georgian England
Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009 
http://www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://yearofeatingnaturally.blogspot.com/
http://marjoriegilbert.blogspot.com/

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Re: [h-cost] New Costume Blogs

[Emily Gilbert]

I like them!  It's a neat idea to post the Fashion Chit-Chat - it 
gives a little window into the era.


Emily


On 5/10/2011 8:50 AM, Sandy Gowland wrote:




Hello Everybody,

I recently created a series of new costume blogs that I thought maybe some of 
you might be interested in.



http://civil-war-clothing.blogspot.com

http://late-victorian-clothing.blogspot.com

http://edwardian-clothing.blogspot.com

http://early-victorian-clothing.blogspot.com

http://romantic-clothing.blogspot.com

http://regency-clothing.blogspot.com



They are still just babies, but I hope you can see the potential. Please check 
them out and let me know what you think. Thanks!



Sandy Gowland

www.OldTimePatterns.com


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Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses

[Gilbert]

Congratulations on your win!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN,
a novel set in Georgian England
Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009 
http://www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://yearofeatingnaturally.blogspot.com/
http://marjoriegilbert.blogspot.com/
http://www.gilbertinfrared.com

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Re: [h-cost] Are you guys willing to test a Facebook business page?

[Emily Gilbert]

I've liked it too - and likewise didn't get a captcha.

Emily
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Re: [h-cost] his blue coat

[Emily Gilbert]

I can't find the reference (which is going to drive me nuts!), but I 
seem to remember reading somewhere that it was because blue cloth was 
more expensive to manufacture, so wearing a blue coat told people that 
you could afford the best.


Emily

On 1/31/2011 7:53 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote:


It's funny how something so commonly known can strike us afresh with 
questions. In this case:


It's quite apparent that during the Federal/Empire/Regency or turn of 
the 18/19century period* a dark blue coat was the sign of higher 
status and, together with black, the most common color for full dress. 
The number of mentions in Austen, the number of fashion plates that 
show them indicates that this is so. Does anyone have any (documented) 
explanations why?


The most common one seems to be because Beau Brummel says so though 
this blog post suggests a Goethe/Werther connection 
(http://austenette.wordpress.com/2009/03/11/the-blue-coat/).


Is it simply a fashion choice that became popular or does anyone know 
of an economic, political or other reason for the prominence of the 
blue coat? (For example, something like the tax on hair powder 
contributing to the demise of that particular fashion, or the tax laws 
regarding Irish linen that increased its popularity, etc.)


- Hope

* I'm tempted to start using the abbreviation FER to cover this time 
period!

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Re: [h-cost] Historical figures

[Emily Gilbert]

/Wow /How does he do all the elaborate detail in the clothing at 
such a small size?  I may have to go to California just to see those in 
person!


Emily


On 1/16/2011 1:22 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote:



Hi group,

Some chat on the List of late about historical dolls, and today, I 
thought of y'all!


Until today, I had never heard of these, but they are stunning. I saw 
quite a few  of them on display in the history/art museum in Ventura, 
their permanent home. Stunning close up!


http://www.galleryhistoricalfigures.com/

== Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/




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Re: [h-cost] Historical figures

[Emily Gilbert]

Umm, I did go and read the website.  They are not THAT small, he does them 
one-quarter scale.  So the average figure would be about 15-18 inches tall.


Okay, but they're still pretty cool!

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Re: [h-cost] hair work

[Emily Gilbert]

You're welcome!  I'd spotted the book at my local library a while back, 
and when you mentioned wanting to learn hair work, I thought of it right 
away.  Have fun experimenting with it - it sounds like a really neat craft!


Emily


On 1/8/2011 9:08 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote:


Thanks for the recommendation---I ordered the book, surprisingly, Lacis
had it for less than Amazon, but it does look like what I need to do
this.  IT could be a whole new venture for me, esp. since I could learn
to make the findings from PMC.

Yours in cosutming, Lisa A

On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 14:10:17 -0600 Emily Gilbertemchantm...@gmail.com
writes:

On 12/31/2010 10:46 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote:

Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian

hair

lockets/brooches?  It's my dearest wish to start making these.


Hi Lisa,

I don't know whether it's exactly what you had in mind, but Lacis
publishes a reprint of an 1875 book called The Art of Hair Work by
Mark
Campbell (shown here: http://lacis.com/catalog/).  It mainly seems
to
involve the different types of braid you can make.

Emily


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[h-cost] hair work

[Emily Gilbert]

On 12/31/2010 10:46 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote:

Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian hair
lockets/brooches?  It's my dearest wish to start making these.


Hi Lisa,

I don't know whether it's exactly what you had in mind, but Lacis 
publishes a reprint of an 1875 book called The Art of Hair Work by Mark 
Campbell (shown here: http://lacis.com/catalog/).  It mainly seems to 
involve the different types of braid you can make.


Emily


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Re: [h-cost] Queen Maud's wardrobe

[Emily Gilbert]

Ooh, post a picture when you're done - and pictures of the other gowns, 
too!  I think the concept of making doll-size historical costumes is 
really interesting.


Emily

On 1/1/2011 9:45 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

New year project: Finally have the stash and will to try an interpretation of Queen 
Maud of Norway's coronation gown, (Style and Splendor).? The model is 17. Had 
a lot of trouble trying to find suitable fabric for the project.? I finally found a 
gold on gold embroidered dupioni that was in scale with the size of the model, made 
the pattern for the gown with train, cut the princess panels for the front an 
Began!? Starting at the hemline, I made the bow motifs and garlands and couched 
these in place and made my way upwards up the left side.?I am now doing selective 
enhancement in the center section, that reflects the attention to that portion as in 
the original. I chose the embellished silk because it presents the raised texture of 
this 1906 gown and will allow me to do selective ornamentation that will be 
reflective of the fashion mode of the time without having to scale down the actual 
beading ?pattern of its time.??
This is the fourth major gown from SS I have produced for Maud. She is very 
pleased with my efforts and is constantly asking for more.? It is fortunate that I am retired 
mostly so from doing historical costume for the?Trade.??


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Re: [h-cost] Queen Maud's wardrobe

[Emily Gilbert]

Those are so cute!  Is that a little thrum cap on the Trindhoj Man?

Emily


On 1/2/2011 5:28 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

I've had a lot of fun making doll-sized replicas of costumes (and other goods) 
from archaeological finds.  There are some pictures of theme here:

http://www.heatherrosejones.com/digthatdoll/index.html

Heather
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Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?

[Emily Gilbert]

I have Jane Austen's Sewing Box by Jennifer Forest on my list.  It 
features various small projects in handicrafts of the period, reportedly 
with very pretty photos.


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] Amazon Dry Goods - OT

[Emily Gilbert]

The page on your site says they'll be closing within a month, but 
doesn't give a date.  Do you happen to know how long we have to order 
things?


Emily


On 11/27/2010 5:06 PM, Franchesca wrote:

Greetings Costuming Collective,

I have been asked to help with the scanning of the pattern catalog and then
put it and the General catalog on my webpage.

http://www.glove.org/AmazonDryGoods/

I have posted it to my Live Journal, tweeted it, and created an FB page for
them as well (need 25 likes to update the URL).

http://www.facebook.com/AmazonDryGoods#!/pages/AmazonDryGoods/12093383130278
8

Please pass this email on to all places who have an interested in their
items and story. It would be great to see reviews of items you have
purchased from them. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you,
Franchesca



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Re: [h-cost] Travelling to the US in March 2011

[Emily Gilbert]

There's a Regency ball in South Bend, IN on March 26.  I went last year, 
and it was lovely!


http://regencymasqueradeball.blogspot.com/

Emily


On 11/21/2010 7:44 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden wrote:

I am travelling to the US in March to attend Costume Accessories: Head to
Toe at Colonel Williamsburg. Does anyone know if there are any other
historical costuming or dance events on in March that I can add to my
itinerary?
Bye for now,

Aylwen Garden

---
Costume Director, Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia
President, Monaro Folk Society
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[h-cost] Prym/Dritz dress forms

[Emily Gilbert]

My local Hancock Fabrics is having a sale with Prym/Dritz dress forms 
(the Twin Fit and My Double models) at $40 less than the usual price.  
I've never had a dress form, and I'm wondering whether to take advantage 
of this sale.  Does anyone here have this kind of dress form?  Is it 
good quality, or not worth bothering with?


Emily 
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Re: [h-cost] A forum on early 19th-century sewing

[Emily Gilbert]

Oooh!  That's going in my bookmarks right away! 


Emily


Lavolta Press wrote:


This forum has numerous sub-forums devoted to early 19th-century sewing:

http://regencysa.proboards.com/index.cgi

You do not have to be a member of any society to post.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] Amazon Dry Goods going out of business!

[Emily Gilbert]

If you have a General catalog, I'd love to see that!  I have an old 
Patterns catalog, but I've been kicking myself that I never followed 
through on my vague thoughts of sending away for a General one. 


Emily


Franchesca wrote:

Yep, they are actually directing folks to them as you email them.

I got part of one order in with them so far.

I have the other catalogs as well and am willing to scan them and put them
in the h-costume archives that I have (i.e. the really old ones) if folks
would like that.

Let me know. :)

Franchesca 



  

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Beteena Paradise
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 2:48 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amazon Dry Goods going out of business!

Thank you!





From: Lorri ms_g...@pacbell.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, August 31, 2010 6:41:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amazon Dry Goods going out of business!

Hopefully this will help a few of you...

A few days ago in one of my LJ communities, the announcement of Amazon
was
made...someone was kind enough to scan a few pages...

I think this is an open community so you can go directly to the link:
http://community.livejournal.com/steamfashion/2774559.html
If not...you can see the name of the community: Steamfashion and the
date of the
post was on 8/26.

Lorri
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Re: [h-cost] FW: [Alderfolk] Fashion Crisis!

[Emily Gilbert]

Oh, dear!  I have his Empire Fashions coloring book... I guess I should 
take it less seriously as a source of information.  


Emily


Patricia Dunham wrote:
I just looked up his webpage... http://www.tomtierney.com/index.htm  He's in his 80's by now, majority of his career he was a fashion artist for various large east coast department stores (in the 50s-70s).  The paper doll books were a late development.  


There's nothing in his bio that indicates any experience with academia, 
archaeology, costume history, history or even theatrical costume design.

A quick scan of the covers of his works (which are voluminous!) -- very colorful, highly decorated, make Iris Brooke look like a paragon of research!  He gets some of the silhouettes and main lines right, but the colors and patterns he fills in with are dizzying.  


chimene

On Aug 19, 2010, at 11:45 AM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

  

I think the same for the Elizabethan, Italian Renn and the medieval
periods that I've seen.  I have a couple just because, but I wouldn't
even use them for the let's get you in the general area and then look
for better examples type of search.  They seem rather outlandish in
most cases...

alex
who would only use these for halloween costumes when historical
accuracy is no where in the picture
So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with…



On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 1:33 PM,  aqua...@patriot.net wrote:


Maybe the Victorian is ok, but the 18thC is bad. Take Tom Tierney with a
huge bag of salt — if you think he did actual research for the period in
question, track down the sources. The more you rely on someone else's
creative efforts, the farther you get from the facts.


  

I'm not SCA, don't know anything about Irish Celts in the 6C except
that they were there.

Having said that, Tom Tierney's colors should be in a little girls
bedroom, all pastels, even when pastels are not the appropriate color.
From my research, his designs come from other research books or
original information (i.e., Godey's Ladies Magazine for Victorian
dresses) and aren't too bad. I just can't abide his color schemes.



OK my SCAdian family...I have a book by Tom Tierney on Celtic Fashions.
What I would like to know is how reputable is this source? What I am
looking for is Irish Celt in the 6th Century. I really like the style
on the cover but the illustration states Frankish Celts, ca 450 B.C.
PeaceDub Essa/Cliodhna
  



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Re: [h-cost] Victorian needlework tecchnology?

[Emily Gilbert]

For one thing, I wasn't aware of the differentiation between tambour work and 
other forms of embroidery.
  
As I understand it, tambour was worked with a hook rather than a 
needle.  You had the cloth stretched very tightly across the hoop/frame 
(like a drum, hence the name - as in tambourine), and you punched the 
hook through the fabric to pick up a loop of thread, then repeated the 
process with the second loop coming up through the first, and so on.  
The result looked something like chain stitch. 



Emily 
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Re: [h-cost] MODERN HAIR RECEPTICLE

[Emily Gilbert]

Now I'm curious - how *do* you change clothes in a moving carriage or 
sleigh?


Emily  



AVCHASE wrote:

Hi, All:

My Grandmother told me to save my hair in a net bag (for making rats), I should make and once a year wash it, sqeeze out the moisture in a towel, and hang to air dry. She said I'd have to make new bags to replace the old as silk net eventually rots; then along came nylon. However, I never did that. But now I save all combings in a recycled boutique tissue box in the back of a drawer. I don't save it for rats though. I save it to cut up for potting plants. It's nitrogen. I could make rats if desired. 
Frn, should I write a book about all the things my Grandmoter told me, like the possible bath, how to change clothes in a moving carriage or sleigh, or how to how make the cat stay when moved to a new home?

Best to all, Audy.

in the high boonies of Central Texas


PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com
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Re: [h-cost] Arty recycling of garments

[Gilbert]

I got a dress from a really nice store like Macys, and while I loved the
fabric and the drape, I just didn't have the tracks of land to make it fit
properly. So rather than go under the knife, I shortened the dress straps
and turned it into an Empire waist gown. It's lovely.

I'm also in the habit of taking in dresses or jackets or sweaters and adding
my own buttons. For a really cool pea coat which had front seam pockets that
bagged unattractively, ruining the lines, I sewed the pockets closed and
changed the buttons. It came out rather well.

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN,
a novel set in Georgian England
Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009 
www.marjoriegilbert.net
www.gilbertinfrared.com

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Re: [h-cost] What to name a dressmaker's dummy

[Emily Gilbert]

I don't actually have a dummy (maybe someday!), but the first part of 
this thread, about what they were wearing, got me thinking about what I 
might name one if I did.  At the moment I'm partial to Madame. 


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

[Gilbert]

My gorgeous poodle skirt, a wide red belt and a red scarf from the costume I
made and wore for the dance recital last year (we tapped to Mr Sandman).

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN,
a novel set in Georgian England
Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009 
www.marjoriegilbert.net
www.gilbertinfrared.com

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Re: [h-cost] embroidered 1800s gowns

[Emily Gilbert]

Gorgeous!!  I want the pink one. 


Emily

otsisto wrote:

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/haut/ho_C.I.49.3.25a,b.htm

De

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Re: [h-cost] questions about a fabric/clothing site

[Gilbert]

I know nothing bout Japanese clothing customs, but a friend told me they
will not wear the clothing of a deceased person. Anyone know if this is
true? I'm just curious, because if true, what happens to those wonderfully
decorated garments?

I had often wondered the same thing myself. A friend and her family were
posted to Japan, and they were able to furnish their house quite cheaply
with furniture from people who had died. They, as Americans, looked upon the
inexpensive but quite good quality furnishings as a boon; the Japanese,
courting bad luck. I also remember seeing a news story on a restaurant in
Japan that encouraged its patrons to break stacks of plates that belonged to
a failed restaurant. The dishes could not be used for they were viewed
similarly to a dead person's possessions...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN,
a novel set in Georgian England
Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009 
www.marjoriegilbert.net
www.gilbertinfrared.com


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Re: [h-cost] Washing, irioning, and running repairs - was an amusing error

[Emily Gilbert]

Maybe it was called a wringer in the USA  or even just in Washington State, - 
I wouldn't know.


I used to work in the farmhouse section of a small living history park 
in Wisconsin, and we always referred to that device as a wringer.  I 
guess it's the American term. 


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] Christmas Squeee!

[Emily Gilbert]

Neat!  I may have to look those up.

Emily


annbw...@aol.com wrote:
Yes, this is a great book, and actually documented to have been sold in the 
 US--As much as I liked it when it first came out, I had to wonder if 
American  women could have had access to it, so, when I found it advertised by a  
Washington DC bookseller in 1813, I was very happy.  You can find the  
plates, reproduced in the book in black and white, in color on-line.   (Sorry I 
don't remember where I found them, but it shouldn't be too hard to  Google.) 
 
 
Ann Wass

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Re: [h-cost] Christmas Squeee!

[Emily Gilbert]

I bought Costume in Detail at last year's ReenactorFest, and it's 
definitely worth a squeee! 

My best present was the 1790-1820 women's shift pattern from Kannik's 
Korner - everything is historically documented, and all the directions 
are for authentic handsewing techniques!  I can't wait to get started.  
I also got a reprint of an 1811 etiquette book, which seems to contain a 
great deal of advice on Proper Dress.  An invaluable resource for the 
Regency geek! 


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] Quiet list

[Emily Gilbert]

I'm hoping to get the Kannick's Korner 1790-1820 shift pattern for 
Christmas, after which I want to make both that and a Regency ballgown 
in preparation for the Lansing, MI Regency Exhibition Ball in late March.  


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] Dream costume project

[Gilbert]

It is empire with puff sleeves with little flowers on the sleeves and a 
pleated Berta?

That is not an Empire waist. This is more properly an Empire:
http://gregcookland.com/journal/uploaded_images/picMFANapoleonEmpireGownBlog
-790852.jpg

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN,
a novel set in Georgian England
Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009
www.marjoriegilbert.net
www.gilbertinfrared.com

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Re: [h-cost] Picnic in the park

[Emily Gilbert]

Oh, what fun - and what lovely dresses!  It's almost enough to make me 
wish I lived on the West Coast.  


Emily

Sid Young wrote:

A friend on another list (Victorian Dresses) sent this link through, lots of
period costume for your references anyone from the list in any of the
photos?

http://family.webshots.com/album/574763529PopucJ


Sidney
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Re: [h-cost] In search of a costuming teacher

[Emily Gilbert]

I'm in Appleton.

Emily


cc2010m...@cs.com wrote:
Emily, 
   Where in Wisconsin are you?
   Henry W. Osier   
   Chairman, Costume-Con 28

   www.cc28.org
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Re: [h-cost] In search of a costuming teacher

[Emily Gilbert]

Thank you!

Emily


cc2010m...@cs.com wrote
At the museum in Fond Du Lac, there is a reenactor working there. If I 
remember correctly, her name is Mary. She could help you out.  


Henry W. Osier
Chairman, Costume-Con 28
May 7 to May 10, 2010 in Milwaukee, Wisconsin
www.CC28.org
Look for our fan page on Facebook!
And on Twitter: CostumeCon28
Got questions? 
Join the CostumeCon Yahoo group! 
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Re: [h-cost] In search of a costuming teacher

[Emily Gilbert]

I'm two hours from Madison, so that's not a bad idea.  I'll have to look 
into it.  Thanks! 


Emily


Marjorie Wilser wrote:

Emily--

how close are you to Madison? The Wisconsin State Historical Society 
has seamstresses it knows about, and one of them might be willing to 
take an apprentice or . . .? It's worth a shot, if you're close 
enough. If that doesn't work, a close friend of mine in Madison has to 
hire a seamstress every so often (she doesn't sew), and may know of 
someone.


Good luck!

== Marjorie Wilser

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[h-cost] In search of a costuming teacher

[Emily Gilbert]

I love 19th-century costume, and I'd like to find someone who makes it 
and would be willing to teach me how.  Someone who lives in Wisconsin 
would be best, but Illinois, Minnesota, or Michigan are acceptable too.  
Can anyone put me in touch with someone like that? 


Emily
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Gilbert]

My dummy is wearing the white poodle skirt I made for my dance recital (we 
did a tap routine to Mr Sandman). It's gorgeous...


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Royal Ascot Finalist 2009
www.gilbertinfrared.com


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Re: [h-cost] Mascara advice

[Gilbert]

Thank you for all your advice re mascara. I must admit to going into sticker 
shock when seeing the prices. I guess you truly get what you pay for. I will 
look for waterproof and suitable for contact lenses mascara.


Thank you!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
Royal Ascot Finalist 2009
www.marjoriegilbert.net
www.gilbertinfrared.com 



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Re: [h-cost] Mascara advice

[Gilbert]

I buy Maybelline waterproof mascara.  It's cheap and doesn't run.

Sylvia



Thank you, Sylvia. I like the combination of cheap and waterproof. I'll 
buy the Maybelline mascara next.


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
Royal Ascot Finalist 2009
www.marjoriegilbert.net
www.gilbertinfrared.com 



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Re: [h-cost] Mascara Advice

[Gilbert]

I had to wear mascara for a dance recital, and find that it's still 
there--not only that, it ran (cried while Mary and her little lambs danced). 
My questions are these: how do you get the stuff off, and what mascara is 
tear-proof?


I look forward to hearing from you. Thank you in advance!!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
Royal Ascot Finalist 2009
www.marjoriegilbert.net
www.gilbertinfrared.com 



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Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual

[Gilbert]

Gee, I wonder if I can find any of the accessories
for it: I'd love to get a buttonholer after all the talk about how great
the old singers were for buttonholing (I hate doing buttonholes, and my
Kenmore isn't too fond of them either).


I got a buttonholer kit for my Singer 220 from eBay, of all places, at a 
good price. Why not check there?


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert 



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Re: [h-cost] Pattern cutting for men's costume

[Gilbert]

as I was taught to drape my patterns by, among others, Janet herself.



Oh, my goodness! That must have been something!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert

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Re: [h-cost] sewing machines

[TIM GILBERT]

 And if you are buying a machine, DON'T buy a Singer, unless it is old,
 black and metal.

Hear, hear. That's been my experience also. Within ten years or so, the
Singer name was sold, so the new Singer machines are not really the
Singers that we all know and love. I have been able to get old, black
Singers for under $100.0, and they are by far the best machines I have
ever owned.

Marjorie
-- 
Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net



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Re: [h-cost] All Hallows

[Gilbert]

So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing?



I am taking the girls to the Mall for a costume contest, and I am wearing my 
Empire gown with stays et al. My girls will be an angel and a fairy--very 
apropos. As I am a homeschooling, stay-at-home mom, that very much falls 
under the heading of work (as well as fun, of course)...


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert 



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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

[Gilbert]

Congratulations on your graduation, Monica!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 5:08 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?



My cap, gown and Masters hood from my recent graduation from Seton Hill
University.
Monica



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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

[Gilbert]

Lovely corsets, Zuana! Thank you for sharing!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 4:34 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


I've just finished two silk corsets, one 1876 and one from the beginning 
of the 17th century, a reproduction of the Dorothea corset:


http://www.sartor.wz.cz/images/1876%20corset.jpg
http://www.sartor.wz.cz/images/dorothea%20bodies.jpg

The straps of the Dorothea corset are a real pain, next time I make tie-on 
straps. I didn't make any tabs, because I just couldn't figure out how to 
attach them to the corset to make it look good from the outside as well as 
inside. I just didn't know how to continue with the bias binding there.


Zuzana



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Re: [h-cost] Finished Empire Gown

[Gilbert]

Ann (almost a neighbor),

Thank you for your kind words!

Yes, finished! Hurrah! Though I think I won't wear the gown to go shopping 
as I originally threatened as the train is such a bother (to myself and 
others). Better for promenading sedately in book stores or less trafficked 
places...


Resizing is challenging. You must be quite tall to have to add 9 inches to 
the hem.


Thank you for your kind words!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Ann Catelli [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finished Empire Gown


The gown suits you very nicely.
And you got it Done! Hurrah!

I sympathize with the sizing issues--I tend to go to the other extreme, and 
start with my measurements  add, add, add.  I had to put in a 9 hem this 
July, which is fairly absurd for a quickie gown to wear camping.


And what d'ye mean, OT?  Historic clothing is the raison d'être of this 
list, and quite on topic. :)


Ann in CT



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Re: [h-cost] OT: Finished Empire Gown

[Gilbert]

Dear All,

I've been working an an Empire gown (well, actually three which I had to 
size up until I got one that fit me) for over a year, and now it's done. You 
can see it in progress on my website www.marjoriegilbert.net, as well as a 
section on the stays I made for it, and how to get dressed in the gown 
(which is a bit of a process).


I hope you enjoy it!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC-27



Yes'm.  Looks like my request was filled before I made it.
Thanks,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



From: Judy Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi folks,

   I have passed on all the concerns to the Powers That Be. The 
website

will hopefully get worked over this week, as to a chat list.. is there
really interest? I've been given permission to start one up on yahoo if
people want it. Will that do?

-Judy Mitchell

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Re: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos

[Gilbert]

I remember too many Canadian men wandering around in tiny Speedos as they 
wended their way south to Old Orchard Beach in the '70's. Thank you for 
reminding me of this bewildering childhood memory!


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: h-costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 3:19 AM
Subject: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos


I know the subject header looks funny! Tonight I watched Jesus Christ 
Superstar, On Demand.  During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs 
in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos.  I am not 
sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been 
women's bikini bottoms.  Were Speedos that small in 1973 for men?  If not, 
when did men's Speedos become bikini sized?


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com
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Re: [h-cost] Virtual Sewing Machine Museum

[Gilbert]

Such a cool site, thank you for posting!

I went to the site and found out the the Singer sewing machine I got through 
Freecycle (yup, free) was made in 1940, and the Singer treadle machine I got 
at a local antique warehouse for $55.00 was made in 1898 (and it still works 
and is in beautiful condition).

Thank you again!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
 Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
 Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 3:31 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: [h-cost] Virtual Sewing Machine Museum


 Someone posted this another place I go. For those of you who collect
 machines, or drool at the thought.

 http://www.sewmuse.co.uk/

 Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

[Gilbert]

I don't know whether this site will help or not, but yum: 
http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you period 
shoes and boots, I bet this woman could...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Lynn Downward [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes


 The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me 
 a
 3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
 that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their 
 catalog
 and improved their customer service.

 YMMV,
 LynnD

 On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 11:27 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
 Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

 I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great
 reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
 The Shoe Catalog
 Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment
 industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog 
 has
 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes 
 and
 colors for men, women and children.
 THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00

 To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each
 catalog to:

 AMAZON DRYGOODS
 411 Brady Street
 Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
 Phone: 1-800-798-7979
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Happy sewing,
Deb

 The Mantua-Maker
 www.mantua-maker.com
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Re: [h-cost] Hamilton Dry Goods-weird

[Gilbert]

Yeah, I did also. But, if you access the site via Internet Explorer, it 
magically becomes words again.


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Hamilton Dry Goods-weird


Yikes-got really weird stuff when I clicked on wools-looks like a source 
page, but in Chinese.




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[h-cost] OT: Two Grand Costume-related Experiences

[Gilbert]

I have experienced two grand costume-related incidents this month:

I recently ordered fabric from Hamilton Dry Goods, and was pleasantly surprised 
by the customer service as well as the quickness with which the fabric I had 
ordered was delivered. I will definitely deal with them again.

Secondly, I ordered a pattern for stays from the Mantua Maker, and Deb wrote me 
more than once to make certain I was getting the proper stay pattern for the 
Empire gown I'm making (which is more Directoire than Georgian or Regency, 
apparently). I'm pleased to say that per her recommendation, I'm getting the 
Regency stays which will promote more of an oysters on the half shell effect. 
Her emails were greatly appreciated, indeed!

Had to share...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
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Re: [h-cost] 60s source material available

[Gilbert]

Cool, beans, how exciting. My mailing address is PO Box 31, East Poland, 
Maine 04230.


Sorry, not much of a Beatles fan, I like them well enough, but...

What do you need for postage?

Thank you so much! My girls (6 and 8) are avid Lord of the Rings fans, 
especially the BBC radio version, and have written Bill Nye at least three 
letters (he's replied back twice). They'll be thrilled with the calendars!


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 60s source material available



Send me a mailing address and they're yours.

I think there are 2 Hildebrants and the Tim Kirk, plus
one more if Sharon doesn't want it. I believe the one
with Tolkien's own paintings in it is the one she's
asking about, and I wrote her back but she hasn't
replied yet. I'll give her another day or so, just in
case.

Sure you don't want the Beatles stuff? :-)

Maggie

--- Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I would be interested in the old LotR calendars--as
many as you can spare!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in
Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net


http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 60s source material available


 Do any of the LotR calendars have the map, with
all 7 of the Fellowship
 walking next to each other across either the top
or bottom? I remember a
 poster like that and was trying to show it to my
12 yr old. If so, I'd
 love
 it.
 Sharon Collier

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
 Behalf Of MaggiRos
 Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:04 PM
 To: Historical Costume; Kate; Jess Malcom; Regina
Voorhes
 Subject: [h-cost] 60s source material available

 Hi all,

 I just pulled down a huge box from the top of the
closet and found a bunch
 of stuff from high school.
 Most of it is crap, but there are a half dozen or
so magazines (Tiger Beat
 or whatever) that fall into the category we called
Beatles magazines.
 They're full of the Beatles and other teen stuff,
including current, mid-
 to
 late-60s  fashions. If you want them, I'm willing
pack em up and send 'em
 for shipping costs from California.

 There are also a number classic Lord of the Rings
calendars, for you
 fantasy
 costumers. These are from the mid 70s, mostly by
the Hildebrandt brothers,
 and one by Tim Kirk (autographed on the box it
came in!).
 Same terms.

 Help me clear my closets! First come first serve.

 MaggiRos

 Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple
farmers. The village was
 burning when we got here.

 Anon.
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Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Re: [h-cost] 60s source material available

[Gilbert]

I would be interested in the old LotR calendars--as many as you can spare!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 60s source material available



Do any of the LotR calendars have the map, with all 7 of the Fellowship
walking next to each other across either the top or bottom? I remember a
poster like that and was trying to show it to my 12 yr old. If so, I'd 
love

it.
Sharon Collier

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:04 PM
To: Historical Costume; Kate; Jess Malcom; Regina Voorhes
Subject: [h-cost] 60s source material available

Hi all,

I just pulled down a huge box from the top of the closet and found a bunch
of stuff from high school.
Most of it is crap, but there are a half dozen or so magazines (Tiger Beat
or whatever) that fall into the category we called Beatles magazines.
They're full of the Beatles and other teen stuff, including current, mid- 
to

late-60s  fashions. If you want them, I'm willing pack em up and send 'em
for shipping costs from California.

There are also a number classic Lord of the Rings calendars, for you 
fantasy

costumers. These are from the mid 70s, mostly by the Hildebrandt brothers,
and one by Tim Kirk (autographed on the box it came in!).
Same terms.

Help me clear my closets! First come first serve.

MaggiRos

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The village was
burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Re: [h-cost] Prayers, was: Re: Wedding traditions

[Gilbert]

I am so sorry to hear about the news! I hope that your surgery goes well and 
that you will not need chemotherapy.


I will be thinking of you...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: Sharon Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 2:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Prayers, was: Re: Wedding traditions



My dear, please accept my prayers on your behalf and on your family's!
May the holidays bring you joy and comfort, and as you are able,
please keep us posted on how you are doing!

Blessings,
Meli


Hello,

thanks everyone who answered my questions about dancing in hoops,
wedding dresses and traditions, discussed styles with me, gave me all
this support and all those hints.

Yes, the dress is nearly finished now. At least, the major part is
done. I'm using modern techniques and traditional styles, totally
unashamed of using anything Victorian or 1830-ish, and I do have the
hope it will match his suit well.

But the wedding itself had to be postponed.

Less than three weeks before the intended wedding, and six days before
my own flight to the country where it would take place, I was
diagnosed with cancer. I'll have to have surgery right away. The
flight was cancelled, as were all bookings. Luckily, it's hopefully
contained, I may not even need chemotherapy afterwards.

So, this may be the last time I'll be online in a long time. Merry
Christmas to everyone!

Love

B -_- M -_-
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Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Gilbert]

I did put my hair in a pony tail but obviously did not use enough pins. Not 
even enough for me to find my way out of the mall as they scattered on the 
floor behind me. I will have to look into the more massive hair pins you 
describe. Thank you!


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


Do any of you have any sure-fire suggestions as to keeping ones hair in 
a bun


I have to admit I'm one of those disgusting ones whose hair stays in a bun 
pretty much by itself (can't braid it though because the cohesion is too 
much). _However_, if you put the hair in a pony tail first and then wrap 
your hair around the hair band, you'll have better success.  The rubber 
band will be taking the structural load of holding the hair up instead of 
the bobby pins. The hair band won't show and you can anchor the bobby pins 
in the rubber band as well, adding another layer of structure.


I have to say that I've also had better success with true hair pins (looks 
like a V) instead of bobby pins, but that might just be my hair.

--Kathy K.


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Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Gilbert]

Good idea. Obviously, that had been my unintended model... Well, then, I 
pulled it off very well.


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


The best answer, then, is to costume yourself as the White Queen from 
Lewis Carroll's THROUGH THE LOOKING-GLASS, and celebrate the scattered 
hairpins and flying hair as costuming detail at its best!

http://www.art.com/asp/sp-asp/_/pd--12385785/sp--A/White_Queen_Alice_Adjusts_the_White_Queens_Shawl.htm




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Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Gilbert]

I'm open to anything, short of super glue. A hair net might do the trick--or 
all the techniques suggested on this fabulous loop used at once...


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: Rickard, Patty  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


Mine stays in a bun better if it's slightly dirty - much more slippery if 
it's clean. Would a hairnet spoil the effect you want?


Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Gilbert
Sent: Wed 12/12/2007 5:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun



Dear All,

I had a book signing recently. In preparation, I pinned my hair up in a bun,
only to have the whole mass fall out of its pins soon after arrival. Do any
of you have any sure-fire suggestions as to keeping ones hair in a bun until
the owner of the hair wishes to remove the pins, and not the hair itself?

Thank you in advance! I do love this loop...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net


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Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Gilbert]

Thank you for the advice. Now that my hair is getting longer, I will 
definitely have to learn techniques such as these. I like the idea of French 
rolls. Sounds like they'd look rather nice and period as well (aiming for a 
Georgian, 1800's look).


FYI, some shampoo can aid in hair loss and scalp irritation 
http://www.natural-health-information-centre.com/sodium-lauryl-sulfate.html. 
Ugh, is nothing safe?


Thank you again!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 2:32 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun



Sadly for me my hair is slowly becoming less thick and every time I get it
evened up it gets a bit shorter as well.  I have had good luck back in 
the

days of thick, long hair, with taking 3 long bobby-pin tightly squeezed
not the loose U shape and put them as equidistant around the bun as I 
could.

I used to have short sections come loose and end up in my mouth and face,
but then I learned the trick of french rolling (part your hair in the
center, and comb it smoothly to each side.  Start at the part line on one
side and take a little hair and twist it, then move the roll down and 
gather
in some more hair and twist that in.  Keep going until you have reached 
the

area you want the bun to start and put in a big bobby pin to hold it while
you do the other side the same way.  Gather the two twists together and 
wind

them around and make your bun.)  Once you have the short hairs rolled into
the longer ones, they tend not to fly around loosely.  I've even done this
with braids and had it hold throughout the night and next day.  If the 
side

rolls don't look nice and even run a comb through them gently that will
smooth everything out.  If they aren't fluffy enough take the sides and
tug gently.

It can take some practice, but your hair will generally stay put.  The 
only

person I've had a problem with was a dancer who had incredibly thick hair
(she stopped having headaches when she cut it to mid back.  The weight of
her hair was actually causing her to flip it and using neck and spine in
ways that weren't good for them.

I should mention that I rinse my hair about every three to five days (100
strokes with a hog bristle brush that is washed every week with baby
shampoo) with as hot water as I can stand and then folded into a towel and
allowed to dry completely before I start with the big cedar comb my nephew
brought me from China.  I may not have the Breck Girl shining hair, but it
isn't oily, and it does stay in styles far longer than it did when I 
washed

it with shampoo and conditioner frequently.

For the record the lack of Shampoo and Conditioner are not the reason for
the hair loss.  Ya gotta be tough to get old (er)

Wanda




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Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Gilbert]

Cool! I'll have to try that also...

Thanks!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


Depending on the length and thickness of your hair, you might also  
try braiding it before twisting it into a bun. I do this frequently.  
I also use hair sticks to hold the bun, but hairpins, like the  
sticks, would be more secure in braided hair because the braid keeps  
them from moving laterally. Looks pretty too--rich and complicated,  
if that look works with the overall impression you want. I get a lot  
of unsolicited compliments.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Dec 16, 2007, at 10:50 AM, Gilbert wrote:

I'm open to anything, short of super glue. A hair net might do the  
trick--or all the techniques suggested on this fabulous loop used  
at once...


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - From: Rickard, Patty   
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


Mine stays in a bun better if it's slightly dirty - much more  
slippery if it's clean. Would a hairnet spoil the effect you want?


Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Gilbert
Sent: Wed 12/12/2007 5:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun



Dear All,

I had a book signing recently. In preparation, I pinned my hair up  
in a bun,
only to have the whole mass fall out of its pins soon after  
arrival. Do any
of you have any sure-fire suggestions as to keeping ones hair in a  
bun until
the owner of the hair wishes to remove the pins, and not the hair  
itself?


Thank you in advance! I do love this loop...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net


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-- 
--




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Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Gilbert]

You know I think I saw something similar on a site which described Regency 
hair styles. Your explanation of how the style is achieved is far easier to 
understand. Thank you!


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: Tania Gruning [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


The best trick i have is to section your hair. first make a part in the 
hair from ear to ear, and take the back hair and make a bun. the front 
hair you divide in 2 at where you want a part, then take each section and 
wind it around the bun and pin well. It holds for me, and I got super 
smooth hair, which easily glide out of bunns


Tania




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[h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Gilbert]

Dear All,

I had a book signing recently. In preparation, I pinned my hair up in a bun, 
only to have the whole mass fall out of its pins soon after arrival. Do any 
of you have any sure-fire suggestions as to keeping ones hair in a bun until 
the owner of the hair wishes to remove the pins, and not the hair itself?


Thank you in advance! I do love this loop...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net 



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