Re: [h-cost] Help in dating an image

[Kim Baird]

Lia-
When I sent you an email offering to help, I got an automatic "out of
office" reply. Shcekc your email.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hansen, Lia
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 6:18 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Help in dating an image

Subject: Help in dating an image

My friend is an archeologist and found this image at a recent dig.  I
thought this group might be a good resource to help zero in on a date.  If
you are interested in weighing in, feel free to email me at
lia.han...@vanguard.edu and I'll send the
image to you since I can't seem to post it and I don't have a link to it..

Thanks!

Lia

Lia M. Hansen, M.F.A.
Costume Designer/Associate Professor of Theatre Arts Vanguard University of
Southern California
55 Fair Drive, Costa Mesa, CA  92626
lia.han...@vanguard.edu
949-246-6585--cell
714-662-5229--fax
714-619-6423--office
Matt 6:1-8


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Re: [h-cost] Work attire question, 1916-1920

[Kim Baird]

Their dresses look like everyday wear to me, nothing special, although I would 
have expected more aprons. . 
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Franchesca Havas
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 11:29 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Work attire question, 1916-1920

Greetings!

In this short video we see seamstresses working on heavy canvas for airplane 
wings. The question that was asked today was if the attire worn by the 
seamstresses normal work attire or are they dressing up for the filming of 
their work.

http://www.boeing.com/history/video-series/index.page#.VdNbytV1emk.mailto

Videos@Boeing: Laying the fabric: The Boeing seamstresses Laying the
fabric: The Boeing seamstresses
Discover the role Boeing seamstresses played in the early days of company and 
the pioneering spirit they stitched in history in the first installment of “The 
Boeing Archives Presents.

Thanks! :)
Franchesca

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[h-cost] fedora

[Kim Baird]

From Wikipedia:
The word fedora comes from the title of an 1882 play by dramatist Victorien
Sardou, Fédora, written for Sarah Bernhardt.[3] The play was first performed
in the United States in 1889. Bernhardt played Princess Fédora, the heroine
of the play. During the play, Bernhardt, a notorious cross-dresser, wore a
center-creased, soft brimmed hat.

The Oxford English Dictionary says the word is American, and gives its first
use in print in the 1895 Montgomery Wards catalog.

So, I think Bernhardt is a good clue to follow.

Kim (textile historian)


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Re: [h-cost] friend going to Italy

[Kim Baird]

In Bolzano, DO NOT MISS the Ice Man. You can see all his clothing and
accessories. 5000 year old stitches!
South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology
http://www.iceman.it/

I recommend arriving first thing in the morning to avoid crowds.

In Venice, everything is wonderful. I enjoyed the Palazzo Fortuny, which was
once the home of Mariano Fortuny, and is now a museum. There's a Fortuny
store as well, although not at the Palazzo.
I wanted to go to the island of Burano, for the lace, but didn't have time.
It is a beautiful place to visit.

Kim



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 11:47 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] friend going to Italy

I have a friend who is travelling to Italy next month, to Florence, Balzano,
Rome and Genoa, with a very brief visit to Venice and Naples too.

Doas anyone have any suggestions of museums or shopping for
costume/textile/lace related things not to miss?

I'm working on my wish list of what she should look for for me--living
vicariously through my friend's travel...

Katy

--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] mildew stains

[Kim Baird]

All I can suggest if a 24-hour soak in Oxyclean. That's been my best results
for all stains.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 12:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] mildew stains

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get mildew stains out of white
cotton? I have a favorite white cotton (or maybe linen and cotton) Victorian
repro. blouse that was left damp and now it's mildew stained.
 Makes me so sad.

Katy

--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Clothing of the Future, 2000

[Kim Baird]

That was hilarious! They did get the see-through mesh right.
kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of mhprobe...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 11:20 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Clothing of the Future, 2000

This was fun - anything look familiar?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9eAiy0IGBI

Melissa Roberts
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Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians

[Kim Baird]

It's perfectly possible to sit in a Victorian corset. Victorians did it all
the time. It does have to fit correctly, however.



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 11:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians

I'm thinking about Victorian fashion here. Are there any pictures of women
sitting down playing music? I've seen women corsetted when standing up
playing the violin, but how did they manage playing the piano? Or are my
musicians complaining too much?
I'm right at the beginning in my research so far.
Many thanks,
Aylwen


On 21 October 2013 15:48, Elizabeth Jones
elizabethrjones2...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi Aylwen,
 What have you tried so far? If we know what's already been tried there 
 won't need to be any re-inventing of the wheel. For anything pre-1600 
 you are fairly safe to skip boning for anyone who isn't extremely high 
 fashion (and musicians paid to perform for a ball definitely weren't 
 high fashion) Elizabeth

 On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden 
 aylwe...@gmail.com wrote:
  Dear Friends
  Our dance group prides itself on wearing historically correct gowns 
  and undergarments for our dance performances, but it is not 
  comfortable for
 our
  pianist and other musicians. I am exploring ways I can bone the 
  bodices
 of
  the gowns and still give sitting-down musicians breathing space - 
  but
 still
  have the garments look close-to-accurate. Can anyone offer me any
advice?
  We costume from 1450 through to 1900 - all styles along the way.
  Many thanks,
  Aylwen
 
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--
*Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
*
*
*
*

*Jane Austen Festival Australia http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au *
*Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academyhttp://www.earthlydelights.com.au/
*
*John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book
serieshttp://www.lulu.com/spotlight/earthlydelights
*
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Re: [h-cost] est casula samiti palumbini

[Kim Baird]

I think it refers tp color, dove gray?

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of snsp...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 7:09 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com; medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] est casula samiti palumbini

Can anyone please tell me what palumbini means in this phrase?  It is a
chasuble made of samite ???...  

Thank you.

Nancy
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Re: [h-cost] where to buy lucet?

[Kim Baird]

I got mine at Lacis
http://www.lacis.com/

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rebecca
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 7:20 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] where to buy lucet?

Where do people purchase their lucets (preferably online)? I'd like to buy a
few, but am coming up stumped on where I've seen them for sale! Thanks :)

Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnyss Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire


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Re: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?

[Kim Baird]

For stains, I soak overnight in Oxyclean. Always works for me.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Patricia Dunham
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 10:28 PM
To: h-costume-indra.com Costume
Subject: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?

We're in the process of sorting, washing-musty-out, and re-packing the
fabric stash and have discovered about 5 pieces of mostly-white,
mostly-linen that has a FEW, random pink and/or blue-y/black-y spots. We've
only really noticed this tonite. Doesn't seem to be occuring on the white
cottons (I think).

I'm planning to pre-treat with Clorox2, and then cold-launder with Clorox2.
Have just had real good luck with that with a cotton bra that got a
raspberry down it all day 8-) which stain started pinkish, and then
turned sort of blackberry dark blue/black as I tried to wash it out.

Anybody have any idea what this might be, or why it's affecting the linen by
preference? oh yes, I double-checked, the cotton stain DID come out, except
for one very faint shadow the size of a dime.

thx much!!
chimene
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Re: [h-cost] Bernina Buttonholes

[Kim Baird]

Are you using the correct cutting tool? Scissors are not the best choice.
Kim

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have Berninas.  While they make great buttonholes there just doesn't
seem
 to be a big enough gap between the 2 bars.  I consistently manage to cut a
 thread when I open them.

 Any suggestions?
 Julie
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[h-cost] Bernina butonholes

[Kim Baird]

Different models of Bernina use different methods for buttonholes. Some work
better than others, but I've never found anything that works better than
those old attachments. Pain in the butt, but good!

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[Kim Baird]

2 sewing machines are the minimum number a real sewer need. And Bernina is
cream of the crop!
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 7:01 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

I've always done a lot of hand hemming and hand finishing, but lately I am
having a hard time not hand sewing.  I started hand sewing everything when
my Viking's straight stitch went wonky. There was a period of two or three
months where I took it to repair places who did not fix it properly. In the
meantime I was doing hand sewing exclusively. Then I replaced the Viking
with my Bernina and furthermore, found a great repair place that fixed the
Viking like new, meaning I now have two sewing machines in great working
order. And I'm still wanting to hand seam everything. I just got into it.

Fran
Lavolta Press

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Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Kim Baird]

Here is the correctly spelled URL:
http://www.schaefferarts.com/embellishments/




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Re: [h-cost] Fabrics Medieval vs Modern

[Kim Baird]

I have seen garments made of nettle in Denmark (recreations of bog
clothing). They resembled linen, which is to be expected. Both are bast
fibers.
Kim

http://www.sagnlandet.dk/English.425.0.html


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Re: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance

[Kim Baird]

Take another look, Jen. I think there are sleeves, as you say, but the slit
under the arm is only enough for the arm itself. The only long slit is in
the center front.

Kim
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 1:54 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance


So I have this friend who said if you make it for me I will wear it and I
want to make this outer garment: 
http://diglit.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0141?sid=8d563ad12e918dcb1c
d18fb352e23e86

I am having a disagreement with my other half about how to interpret it,
though. It's the only one in the manuscript, I just doublechecked, so
nothing to compare it with. Anyway and anyhow, what *I* read is that it has
sleeves attached at the shoulder but then the body is slit up all the way to
the armpit on the sides, or at least the left side. Then the sleeve seam is
on the bottom, and this seam is also slit to allow the arm to come out. And
it has buttons up the front.

Thoughts, anyone?

Jen
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[h-cost] chain stitch

[Kim Baird]

You can buy a serger that does a beautiful chain stitch.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of aqua...@patriot.net
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 12:26 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Machines

 I'm sure embroidery machines can do satin stitch, but can they do 
 chain stitch?

I think your best bet there is to get an antique machine that sews with a
chain stitch. I actually had a toy machine at one point that was a chain
stitch, but it would lose alignment easily.

Chain stitch, or tambour embroidery was popular in the 1780s. It's thought
to have originated in India. There is a beautiful Indian robe at the
Victoria  Albert Museum, from the early 18th century.

-Carol

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Re: [h-cost] chain stitch

[Kim Baird]

Yes. For the chain stitch, you don't use the cutter.
Not all sergers do this stitch, though.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 3:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] chain stitch

I take it you can use it in the middle of a fabric, without the cutter blade
following along?

Thanks,

Fran
Books on historic sewing
www.lavoltapress.com

On 11/1/2012 1:46 PM, Kim Baird wrote:
 You can buy a serger that does a beautiful chain stitch.
 Kim

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
 On Behalf Of aqua...@patriot.net
 Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 12:26 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Machines

 I'm sure embroidery machines can do satin stitch, but can they do 
 chain stitch?
 I think your best bet there is to get an antique machine that sews 
 with a chain stitch. I actually had a toy machine at one point that 
 was a chain stitch, but it would lose alignment easily.

 Chain stitch, or tambour embroidery was popular in the 1780s. It's 
 thought to have originated in India. There is a beautiful Indian robe 
 at the Victoria  Albert Museum, from the early 18th century.

 -Carol

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Re: [h-cost] chain stitch

[Kim Baird]

Actually, I think my serger that does a chain stitch is a cover stitch
machine. I can switch between cover stitch ( a two needle hem for knits) and
chain stitch.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Beteena Paradise
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 3:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] chain stitch

Is that something any 4 thread serger can do? Or is it a specialty machine?
 
Teena




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[h-cost] machine embroidery

[Kim Baird]

Fran asked:
how well *does* a good embroidery machine imitate blackwork?  Are the
results fairly plausible as long as it is not under the eye of a stitch
counter?

I never have the slightest trouble distinguishing machine from hand
embroidery. I suppose from 20 feet it might fool someone. . .

Kim



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Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Software and Machines

[Kim Baird]

See these examples:
http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/01/machine-embroidery-b
lackwork-or.html

http://asploded.wordpress.com/2011/12/10/machine-embroidery-blackwork/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACKWORK-TUDOR-FONT-machine-embroidery-designs-/200
709072075?_trksid=p2047675.m1850_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26a
o%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D3144091713094000241%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26
rk%3D2%26sd%3D150899972698%26

http://www.emblibrary.com/el/Products.aspx?CS_ProductID=C4106CS_Catalog=Emb
library

Kim

Having said that, how well *does* a good embroidery machine imitate
blackwork?  Are the results fairly plausible as long as it is not under the
eye of a stitch counter?

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books of historic clothing and needlework patterns www.lavoltapress.com




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Re: [h-cost] Walking feet

[Kim Baird]

Fran-
I had a walking foot for my Bernina, but I sold it. I found myself not
really needing it, and not liking it when I did use it. Save yourself some
money and don't buy one.

You shouldn't need to baste the seam before sewing it with your new Bernina,
UNLESS it's velvet. Pinning should be sufficient. You'll find the machine
feeds beautifully.

Kim


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[h-cost] pinning

[Kim Baird]

Of course I remove them as I go along.

Sewing over a pin is bad for the needle, can chip it if not break or bend
it. 
I find it hard to believe that you need so many pins to hold a simple seam
together. Sometimes I don't pin at all. Although curves and matching plaids
are a different story. . .

Slippery fabric is tricky, too. But regular cotton or wool or linen doesn't
need much pinning.

I had no trouble machine quilting with my Bernina and NO walking foot. I use
a thinner batting, either Hobb's Thermore or a cotton, which is less
slippery. I also like the Sulky KK 2000 temporary spray adhesive. Again, not
on silk--it leaves a stain. Any other brand of spray adhesive I've tried has
been way to messy and sticky, but KK 2000 goes away by itself, and doesn't
gum up my machine.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 7:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Walking feet

You mean the Bernina 1008 will actually sew over pins?  I gave that up after
I (immediately and very expensively) ruined the timing on the machine I
bought right after the Sears Kenmore died. The Kenmore would sew over
anything, so I assumed the newer machines would.  Big mistake, in that case.
It would be great to know they've designed the Bernina
1008 to sew over pins, or do you remove them as you go along?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on historic sewing
www.lavoltapress.com



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Re: [h-cost] Copper

[Kim Baird]

I don't know what it's called, but it's obviously a top hat with a short
crown. Nothing like a derby or a pork pie.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lauren Walker
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 9:36 PM
To: h-costume h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Copper

I'm watching Copper on BBC America. Can someone tell me what the hat
Corcoran wears is called? It's sort of a porkpie, but a little taller than
the modern version that goes by that name, and the crown's not creased
anywhere. 
Or maybe its a derby with the crown flattened? 
Anyway it's a great hat. 
I'm enjoying the costumes on this show, maybe because I don't know the
period all that well!
Thanks!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net




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Re: [h-cost] Copper

[Kim Baird]

I think you're right about the dressage hat--very similar!  I also think it
resembles the John Bull hat from Gentleman's Emporium

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lauren Walker
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 10:45 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Copper

I don't know -- looking at the 19th-century costume hatters, there are hats
they're calling low derby or flat top derby that look like  it;
http://www.ushist.com/19th-century_mens_hats_f.shtml
 it also looks like their coachman hats.
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000397.php?gclid=CPOTwuDJp7ICFUXf4Ao
dzA4Agg

Most entertaining to me is that what it *really* looks like is a modern-day
women's dressage hat.
Dressage hat:
http://www.doversaddlery.com/wool-felt-dressage-hat-chrstys/p/X1-36035/

I get that it doesn't have the rounded crown of a modern-day derby or
bowler, but the 19th century versions were sometimes flat. 
It doesn't look tall enough to me to be a top hat, however. 

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net




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Re: [h-cost] Copper

[Kim Baird]

Here is a low topper:
http://www.top-hats.com/1015.htm

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

[Kim Baird]

On the subject of machine feet/accessories, I think a ruffler is a good
idea for Victorian sewing. You may be able to buy an antique one that you
can use on your current machine.
One foot I use a lot is the #10. For topstitching it's great. I also like
the #21 or #22 (can't remember exactly). It has a hole for yarn or trim to
feed through, and makes couching a breeze.
And, good old #37 is perfect for 1/4 seams.
I have a lot of other feet, but most rarely, if ever, get used.
If you have a chance to take a class on using these specialty feet, take
it. They can make some things so much easier.
Kim

On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 9:00 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:

 Fran,

 The ruffler foot is great; it can make series of tucks so quickly. I was
 astounded by the price Bernina asks for it (considering it was invented
 over 100 years ago) but it's an essential tool for costuming. Imagine how
 happy your petticoats will be.

 ==Marjorie Wilser

  @..@   @..@   @..@
 Three Toad Press
 http://3toad.blogspot.com/




 On Sep 4, 2012, at 1:49 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:


 I asked a local store to order the Bernina 1008--they only had one and
 they just sold it.  It will arrive in about a week. I am thinking of
 getting the ruffler foot in addition to the basic set of feet, so I can
 make Victorian trimmings faster.  Anyone have anything else to recommend
 where a special foot is really useful, in terms of historic costuming? I
 have never  been a foot collector. I am open to the idea, but many of the
 Bernina feet basically seem designed to help you sew in more precise lines.
  Precise sewing is great but I'd rather do it without spending  on lots
 of special feet.


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[h-cost] Kenmore

[Kim Baird]

The thing about the Kenmore brand is, it's just that--a brand, not a
manufacturer. Sears has used the name for years, but their appliances are
manufactured to their specifications by various big or small firms. Who
knows how many different companies have made Kenmore machine over the
years?

In general, what I've found with Kenmore appliances, is buy the top level
that Sears offers, and you will be happy. Anything else, take your chances!

Again in general, buy a Bernina sewing machine and you will be happy with
it. Swiss engineering and attention to detail, plus their oscillating bobbin
(not available on all models) make for a very good stitch, for a very long
time.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 11:25 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

I'm amazed. . . the Kenmore was my mother's machine which I learned to hate
-- literally chewed up anything with a soft hand, and refused crossed seams
completely.

==Marjorie Wilser





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Re: [h-cost] Stupid question

[Kim Baird]

Am I the only one who has a pinking blade for my rotary cutter? Beats the H
out of pinking shears.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2012 9:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stupid question

although I'm beginning to think
buying a new pair of Fiskars on sale
every time my pinking shears get dull
might be much less of a hassle
(though wasteful).

 --Rachel


You could always donate them to a school or teacher. They will still cut
paper even when they are long past cutting fabric.

Denise

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Re: [h-cost] sewing machines

[Kim Baird]

SERGERS
These are all made in factories in Asia. The companies (Juki, Baby Lock,
Bernina, Pfaff) design them, but don't manufacture them.

Here's my advice to buyers:
  Actually TRY the machine, and see if it feels cheap or rickety in use
 Don't worry about ease of threading. ANY machine made today is easy enough
to thread. It was the very early models that gave people trouble, and gave
sergers a bad name.
 Buy the features and stitches you will actually USE. Plan on
clean-finishing edges? A 3-thread machine is fine.

SEWING MACHINES
The computerized machines have a lot to offer, but there is the problem of
motherboards dying. If you NEED a programmable machine, then you'll have to
go with the computerized ones.

Bernina makes an all-mechanical model that does almost everything, with no
computer. And they are famous for their mechanical precision and durability.
Notice that even their 30 year old models bring high re-sale prices, if you
can even find them for sale.

Most sewing machine sales people try to sell you on all the bells and
whistles. Before you go to buy, consider what you actually NEED in a
machine. How do you use it? If you sew seams in clothing, why do you need 6
alphabets and fancy embroidery capabilities? There ARE machines without
those features.

Again, actually sew on the machine before you buy. And bring your own fabric
to sew on. The dealer will have demonstration fabrics to use, but you need
to see how the machine works with the kind of thing you usually sew.

DEALERS
Some people advise you to shop for a good dealer, rather than a good brand.
There is something to be said for this. A dealer with a good repair tech, a
helpful attitude and years of experience is a great asset.
On the other hand, dealers go out of business or sell, so you can't count on
forever with them.

BERNINA
Personally, I don't think you can beat quality Swiss engineering. If
possible, get a model with the oscillating bobbin and a knee lift for the
needle.

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] sewing machines

[Kim Baird]

Cynthia--
I didn't say that Asian manufacturers are shoddy, far from it.
And Japan IS Asian.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 10:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machines

Actually, Babylock is Japanese  made in Japan.  I love mine. It's a very
high quality machine.  Not all of Asia is the same bargain basement
manufacturing center.

In many cases, the low end models of brands are designed in their home
countries and manufactured in China  Thailand.  The high end models are
still made in those countries.  This is definitely the case with the high
end stuff.  The Bernina embroiderers  quilters are still made in
Switzerland (at roughly the $5000 sale price and up). OMG are they
wonderful, but you'll pay a pretty price.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com


On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 6:55 AM, Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote:
 SERGERS
 These are all made in factories in Asia. The companies (Juki, Baby 
 Lock, Bernina, Pfaff) design them, but don't manufacture them.
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Re: [h-cost] Irons

[Kim Baird]

If you want to avoid spitting, and get lots of steam, get an iron with a
separate water tank. Several companies, including Rowenta, make various
versions.
I use mine in conjunction with an ironing table that has a suction fan,
which means I can use a lower heat than the cotton setting, and still get
good results on cotton, wool and linen.
They also double as steamers, since you can hold the iron upright and send
steam wherever you like.

Here's one example at Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Rowenta-DG5030-Station-Stainless-Soleplate/dp/B000MT51
9O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8qid=1337644802sr=8-5

AND, they are never auto shut off!

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bobbie Kalben
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 6:42 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Irons

I agree with modern irons being a real problem.  I have considered buying a
gravity feed or other high end iron, but they only have a one year warranty.
I remember when appliances were over-engineered and were designed to last
years past the warranty period, but now they seem to die just after the
period ends, if they last that long.  Does anyone know of a store that will
extend the warranty period?

 

Any suggestions for a really good iron are greatly appreciated.

 

Bobbie Kalben

bkal...@msn.com

 

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Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine

[Kim Baird]

It's not the number of stitches that's important, it's the quality of the
stitch.

I have a treadle Singer from the 1920's. It sews a beautiful stitch. But
it's definitely NOT easy to use.

The beauty of a modern, computerized machine lies in its user-friendly
features, such as needle-stop down, and electronic stitch control in the
presser foot. I really use the knee lever on my Bernina to raise and lower
the presser foot, too. It's like having a 3rd hand.

I'm sorry to say that most sewing machine retailers remind me of snake oil
salesmen. (NOTE: I did say most, not all.) Try to listen to them only with
one ear, and take what they say with a grain of salt. But do bring your own
fabric, the type you most often use, and insist on doing some test sewing.
You are the one who will be using the machine, not the salesperson, You need
to try it out.

My recommendation would be to look for a good, sturdy used machine. Start by
looking for a Bernina (not Bernette).

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] used Bernina

[Kim Baird]

Ooh, that could get expensive, replacing those. That explains why this one
is priced lower than the others on eBay.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 5:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] used Bernina

On Sat, 4 Feb 2012 12:43:02 -0600
  Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote:
 Someone was asking about a fully
mechanical Bernina, which is the
1008. I
 just noticed a used one on ebay:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bernina-1008-Sewing-Machine-/250978863528?pt=BI
_Sewi
 ng_Machineshash=item3a6f8189a8
 No affiliation with the seller--just
FYI


If anyone is interested in this machine - please make sure you read the
complete description - it does not include the foot control, cord and
several other pieces that would normally be included.

Denise

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[h-cost] used Bernina

[Kim Baird]

Someone was asking about a fully mechanical Bernina, which is the 1008. I
just noticed a used one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bernina-1008-Sewing-Machine-/250978863528?pt=BI_Sewi
ng_Machineshash=item3a6f8189a8
No affiliation with the seller--just FYI

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] OT- shop machines

[Kim Baird]

A lot of schools have Janome, but I can't see using anything but Bernina, if
you want things that work well and can take abuse.
I love the computerized machines, but Bernina still makes an all mechanical
model that does everything, they even make a treadle.
It is true that you want a good dealer, esp. if you have a fleet of
machines that need maintenance.
I haven't checked out sergers lately, but I can tell you that none of the
big machine companies manufacture their own. They have them made in Asia, to
their specifications. Baby Lock, Bernette or Juki would be good ones to look
at.
Personally, I would never buy a Singer or a White machine of any kind.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathryn Pinner
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 10:05 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT- shop machines

 For those of you who run costume shops:
What do you recommend for teaching basic sewing skills? Machines that will
stand up to student abuse? Basic machines and also sergers?


Kate Pinner


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Re: [h-cost] OT- shop machines

[Kim Baird]

It's the Bernina 1008



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wicked Frau
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 1:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT- shop machines

Do you know the model number of that mechanical bernina?  I'd sure like to
try one out.

Sg



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Re: [h-cost] doll costuming

[Kim Baird]

You could do worse than one of my old favorites:
The Doll Book. Step-By-Step Patterns for Creating a Whole Family of Dolls in
Period Costumes 
Estelle Ansley Worrell 

Publisher: D. Van Nostrand (January 1, 1967)
ASIN: B004U355JE

Out of print, but available used

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Emily Gilbert
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 10:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] doll costuming

I know some people on this list do doll costuming as well as the full-sized
version.  Can you recommend any good resources for the curious novice?

Emily
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[h-cost] split drawers

[Kim Baird]

Victorian women NEEDED split drawers. They wore a long chemise over the top
of the drawers, and a corset laced up tightly on top of that, so the only
way to drop a penny was to have the drawers split. You just couldn't get
at them to pull them down from the waist.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 9:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Update on split drawers (fascinating, I know...)

On the slim chance that anyone is following along...

Yes, we found another pair of split drawers in the the vast Reed Homestead
(Townsend Historical Society) collection.  They definitely belonged to an
adult, and like the child-sized pair... well worn and heavily mended.


--- On Thu, 8/11/11, WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com
wrote:
Re: drawers

So far, we have found one pair of split drawers in the vast attic-sized
pile, er... collection.  Definitely worn by a child.  Were they actually
worn by grown women?

Dede
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Re: [h-cost] historical stuff (some costume related)

[Kim Baird]

Denise--
You could check with your county historical museum, or a local history
center. The photos might be wanted.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 2:09 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] historical stuff (some costume related)

I inherited a crapton of stuff from my grandmother's house.  It's been
stored dry, but not clean, in my brother's barn for about 10 years until I
brought it home last weekend. There was a lot more than I brought, but I try
not to think about that.

The only interesting textiles I've found so far are a veil/scarf of some
kind - extremely fine black lace. It was wadded up in a wood box (like for
cigars, only it says candy on the lid) and a bag of hexagon quilt pieces
that I haven't looked at closely.  I don't know if the lace is nylon or silk
- it weighs next to nothing and is fairly fragile. it's about 15 x 50 or
so and looks like it would have been for church or funerals.  Oh - and a
tanned mink skin in a breadbag.

The photos, however are a treasure. I have one large rubbermaid tote full of
albums going back to the 1870s - most of the people are identified, and
there is at least one photo of a child in a coffin.  O.o  There aren't too
many dates on the actual photos, however. There is a story inscribed on the
flyleaf about how that album was the only thing rescued from a house fire
when the dad broke a window from outside and reached in to get it off a
bookstand.

There are two books inscribed to my grandfather in 1919 several years before
he graduated highschool. Both are military in nature and full of
photographs. I've looked them up on Amazon and they all seem to be in the 
same condition as mine and are priced from $9 to $900.   lol  There are some

great photos of military uniforms of all kinds, and everyday wear of people
in Croatia, England and Germany (and prob. others).

I also have my great grandfather's wood bound school slate and another one
from someone with the same last name (sibling?) and a tiny pair of leather
baby shoes with my dad's name on the bottom.

What does a person do with this kind of stuff?  I don't have infinite
storage. My brother kept it all, but didn't do anything with it either. I
doubt much of it has a lot of value to people who aren't related to the
family in some way.

Denise
Iowa

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Re: [h-cost] Cabbage question

[Kim Baird]

Sometimes they were used as stuffing

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Dunleavy
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 12:39 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cabbage question

Of course, what was done with the cabbage?  I can't see good wools being
used for dustrags, yet there's no evidence of American-style patchwork
quilting until the 18th Century.
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Re: [h-cost] Book suggestions?

[Kim Baird]

Anything else by EW Barber is also good, including her book about the Tarim
mummies. You might look for John Gillow books on African or other textiles.
Also Textiles: 5000 Years, ed. Jennifer Harris. And The Age of Homespun by
Laurel Thatcher Ulrich.
The Root of Wild Madder, Brian Murphy
Miao Textiles from China, Gina Corrigan
Mauve: How One Man Invented the Color that Changed the World, Simon Garfield

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie Taylor
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 6:23 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Book suggestions?

What would you suggest as a follow-up to Women's Work: The First 20,000
Years: Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times by Elizabeth Wayland Barber?

Laurie T.

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Re: [h-cost] OT: skin tone mesh long sleeved shirt

[Kim Baird]

I think what you're looking for is a leotard, or the top part of one. Try
ballet costume suppliers.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 2:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT: skin tone mesh long sleeved shirt

Good afternoon,

This is slightly off topic, but at the moment my google seaching skills are
totally failing me. I'm trying to find a skin-tone mesh top of the kind that
would be worn with a stage costume; but I would prefer a long-sleeved shirt
(even better if it buttons at the crotch) to buying fabric and having to sew
it myself.

Does such a thing exist? And if it does, where can I start looking? Right
now I find absolutely nothing and I simply can't believe that nobody else
has a need for something similar.

Thank you!

Audrey
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Re: [h-cost] question about fabric for gown

[Kim Baird]

Heavy satin for winter, silk taffeta for summer

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rebecca
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 7:09 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] question about fabric for gown

I am working on an 1892 ball gown using Truly Victorian patterns. I was
hoping for some fabric suggestions when I received the patterns, but none
were there. This is a brand-new era for me. Can anyone give me a rough idea
of types and weights of fabric that would be appropriate? I imagine silk
would be correct, but what kind of silk? lightweight dupioni or heavier
satin, or something else entirely? And what would be good modern,
cost-effective substitutes?

 

Thanks all very much!

 

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agnyss Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire

 

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Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...

[Kim Baird]

Laughing Moon patterns are great. Folkwear is OK--you may want to modify.
I'd give Wingeo a pass. . .

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Patricia Dunham
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 4:57 PM
To: h-costume-indra.com Costume
Subject: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...

Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT!  Himself
re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so...

Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... 


Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats  vest

Folkwear #222, set of vests

Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI
Davis (book)

Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat),
#W325 (Dress Coat)


We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but
no tailoring...

Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... 

Chimene




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Re: [h-cost] seam treatments

[Kim Baird]

The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But not with
the seams together-you might need to let it out.

Kim


BTW--I serge mine. Who's going to see them?

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa A Ashton
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:15 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] seam treatments


Hello again.  Im working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my
question for today is:  seam treatments for skirts--if I am using an
unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams be
finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a
running stitch?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Yours in cosutming, Li saA
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Re: [h-cost] Boys Costume in a Daguerreotype Photo

[Kim Baird]

Penny--
There are people who don't realize that plaid pants and a print shirt don't
go together. You should meet my brother-in-law.

On the other hand, I wonder about the tambourine. Maybe he is a performer,
and this is a stage costume?

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of penny1a
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 1:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Boys Costume in a Daguerreotype Photo

Someone please explain this little boy's costume to me,
http://daguerreian.org/fm3/detail.php?Databasenumber=861 .  You can click on
the image to see details in Zoomify.  I do not understand the bodice with
the trousers.  They do not seem to go together. 
 
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com http://www.costumegallery.com/ 
14 websites of fashion, textiles,  costume history
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[h-cost] lovely costume photos

[Kim Baird]

 

 

 

Check out these costumes by Nicole Dextras-made of some unusual materials!

http://www.nicoledextras.com/ephemeralart/weeds/01.html

 

Don't forget to click for the detail shots.

 

Thanks to Christine Mauersberger for the pointer.

 

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] London calling?

[Kim Baird]

Kensington Palace has a nice costume display.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 3:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] London calling?

Does anyone have any recommendations for things not to be missed in 
London or Bath for lovers of historic costume? After the VA, the 
National Portrait Gallery and the Bath Museum of Costume, that is. Other 
museums? Best places to buy period-like fabric? Fabric bargain spots?

Any and all information gratefully appreciated.

- Hope

P.S. ...And good tea shop recommendations are also appreciated.
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Re: [h-cost] Is this real or not?

[Kim Baird]

Face it, they have both been dead for a long time.

But in the photo they are alive--there's really no reason to think
otherwise.

Have you EVER seen a post-mortem photo with open eyes?

Kim

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[h-cost] spray adhesives

[Kim Baird]

The ONLY kind I like to use is Sulky KK2000. It is a temporary adhesive.
Everything else, especially Sullivan's, is WAY TOO STICKY, and gets
everywhere.

It's expensive, so I stock up when there's a sale.

Kim



has any one had problems with the spray adhesives for quilting?

Penny


  
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Re: [h-cost] c. 1890s skirt

[Kim Baird]

Maureen-

It should be pretty easy. Just remember that the skirt is flat in the front,
with all the fullness gathered into the center back. I notice the pattern
uses flutes but gathering would be easier, and just as accurate.

Adjust the width of center front panel for your body size. Then make sure
the two center back panels are wide enough to give you fullness there.

I don't even cut the waistband until I've sewn the skirt panels together.
Remember to leave enough overlap at the CB opening to add hooks and eyes or
snaps.

You really need to wear a petticoat under the skirt. So why not make that
first, using the same pattern and a lighter weight cotton? That will help
you fine-tune the pattern before you do the skirt.

Victorian skirt hems were usually faced or bias bound, not simply turned up
and hand stitched.

Kim


Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Maureen Campbell
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 1:54 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] c. 1890s skirt


Hi all,
I would like to sew an 1890s skirt, and though I've found a pattern (at
tudorlinks) I'm not sure how to adjust it for my measurements; I'm preparing
for my mother's wedding and my brain is mush. Any tips you could send my way
would be appreciated. Thank you.
M.

  
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Re: [h-cost] lining for panne velvet// Quesstion on ironing it...

[Kim Baird]

I would suggest using the KNIT iron-on interfacing, which will give some
stability, but not be stiff. It is available in white or black.

Use a terry towel over the ironing board, and fuse with the velvet face
down. You can always experiment on one corner before fusing everything.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 12:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lining for panne velvet// Quesstion on ironing it...

Dawn,
Did  ironing on the interfacing flatten the pile  to any degree ?
I have seen Panne velvet really cheap but was put off by the stretch factor,
I wondered if fusable interfacing would cure this., but worried about the
pressing making more problems then  it cured.
melody

--- On Fri, 12/4/09, Dawn d...@reddawn.net wrote:


From: Dawn d...@reddawn.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lining for panne velvet
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 9:42 PM


Cascio Michael wrote:
   Will lining the bodice stabilize the stretch?   Would I cut the lining
on the bias or the straight.  I'm considering tacking snowflake buttons at
intervals to decorate the bodice and keep the layers together.  Any thoughts
or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
      
I have used iron-on interfacing to stabilize panne, with pretty good
results. I ironed big sheets of it right onto the back of the fabric before
cutting out my bodice pieces.


Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] How do I wash?

[Kim Baird]

Whoever asked the original question was wondering about washing gabradine,
correct?  Gabardine is made of combed, highly twisted fibers. It's never
going to felt, no matter how you try. 

Wool is weakened when it's wet, and washing is hard on it. At the very
least, use a hand wash cycle and drip dry.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pierre  Sandy Pettinger
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 10:54 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How do I wash?

Also, according to an article on felting I just read, pH makes a difference.
The more alkaline your wash is, the more wool will felt (shrink).
Alkalinity opens the scales on the wool fibers so they hook together more
readily.  Keys to successful washing of wool (according to a wool producer):

Constant temperature (apparently it doesn't matter hot or cold, so long as
it stays the same throughout).
Agitation (or lack thereof) - more agitation = more linking of fibers pH -
more alkaline = more linking of fibers

So, keep the temperature constant, don't agitate (or as little as
possible) and use a slightly acidic to pH neutral wash.

And test, Test, TEST!!

Sandy

At 05:39 PM 11/3/2009, you wrote:
I agree with C. below.  You just never know.  And, just because you 
get it through one wash in the machine doesn't mean you can do it 
again.  The agitation REALLY makes a difference.

Sg

On Tue, Nov 3, 2009 at 2:18 PM, stils...@netspace.net.au wrote:

  Dry clean or hand wash with wool wash, cool to cold water, line dry, 
  press lightly,
 
  -C.
 
   I just bought some 100% wool gabardine. I'd like to machine wash 
   it, but
  am
   worried I might mess it up. I was thinking--Cold water, tumble dry
low.
  Is
 
 
 
  
  This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: 
  http://www.netspace.net.au
 
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Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 

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[h-cost] Clothes brush

[Kim Baird]

Here is one clothes brush at Amazon, and they have others:

http://www.amazon.com/Clothes-Brush-Cedar-11/dp/B001I0B6YU/ref=pd_sim_k_4/18
1-3372426-3928646 

There's also one with metal bristles, which I prefer:
http://www.amazon.com/Caldrea-Clothes-Brush/dp/B001AEBHFC

Brushes work much better than sticky tape.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 12:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning up a wool gown

Alexandria Doyle wrote:
 I have a wool gown that I need to clean-up/freshen up for wear this 
 weekend.  The last outing with this black wool 15th century kirtle was 
 at a dusty/windy camp ground.  The skirt is covered with dried grass 
 and such.  What is the quickest way to get all this grass and debris 
 off the skirt?

Beat it like you would a carpet.

If it wasn't wool I'd be tempted to put it in the dryer with no heat and
tumble it for a while. That's how I get hair and dust off my quilts.



Dawn

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[h-cost] Magnets and machines

[Kim Baird]

LuAnn--

There is one exception to your statement--Bernina. Bernina computerized
machines do not use magnetic memory, and magnets will not harm them. I've
tried it, and it's true.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 12:21 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines


AND if you're addicted to magnetic pin-and-stuff-holders (like I am) your
computerized machine will fry from the magnet.  Ugh.  Give me the old
machines, any time.  

LuAnn

 

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Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines

[Kim Baird]

The 830 is an older model, it is NOT electronic or computerized.

However, everyone who owns one LOVES it. I've known owners to put a new
motor in an old 830 rather than buy a newer Bernina.

It must be a real workhorse. 

If you are considering buying this one, see if it has lots of presser
feet--they are getting harder to find. And if you don't know the history of
the machine, I wouldn't bid much over that $20. It could need costly service
or repairs.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of cc2010m...@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 4:45 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines

Anyone here familiar with the model 830? There is an auction for one here in
Wisconsin. Opening bid is $20.

Henry W. Osier
Chairman, Costume-Con 28
May 7 to May 10, 2010
www.CC28.org
Look for our fan page on Facebook!
And on Twitter: CostumeCon28
Got questions? 
Join the CostumeCon Yahoo group! 
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Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

[Kim Baird]

DO NOT BOTHER WITH A BROTHER.

Get a Bernina, used if necessary, or an old heavy black Singer that does a
godd straight stitch.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Don Eisele
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 12:56 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

So, the short story is that I'm getting a divorce, and her sewing machines
are not going to be accessible to me anymore (or her sewing skills for that
matter).

So, I am looking at buying a machine, and would like some opinions on what I
should get.

Currently, my wife has a nice Bernina Artista 180e, which does about
everything.  Basically, I haven't done anything more than be an assistant
for a long time, so I'm not sure how much of the extra feature set I'm
actually going to need.

A couple of options I see:

1) Go to walmart, buy something like the Brother CE-5000PRW, which has every
basic thing I think I'd need, and appears to do automatic buttonholes.

 a) pros - cheap enough to buy another if it has problems
 b) cons - not as expandable with features, no local repair

2) Buy a Bernina

  a) pros - local repair, an attachment exists for everything
  b) cons - costly


My areas of interest change often, so I can't say I'll be only doing one
period of clothing.  

One thing the Bernina has is a piping foot to actually make piping out of
whatever fabric.  I don't see such a beasty on the Brother, but I just am
not sure I am well enough informed on that.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any advice everyone has, and please forgive me if I'm
acting too much like a newb... because I am one :)

-- 
Don Quixote -- Takeda Kiyoteru -- quix...@toysmakeuspowerful.com
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[h-cost] Native American fiiber sources

[Kim Baird]

 You can get everything you need from animal sources, even without wooly
sheep. Sinew makes a good cord, and NA's were known to use it. Bark was also
used, but I don't think in pounded form, such as you find in Africa and
Polynesia.

Kim
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chris Laning

On Sep 30, 2009, at 9:18 AM, cbellfl...@aol.com wrote:

I wonder whether bark-based fibers or pounded-bark cloth might have been
possibilities. If Native Americans made cord (which I'm sure they
did) then there must have been *some* sources of fiber available.

I

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Re: [h-cost] Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?

[Kim Baird]

 
Llama and those things that look like llama, but I can't remember the name
of. It is lovely, soft, warm, etc. By this time, I think they were trading
with central american tribes. 

That would be the camelids: llama, vicuna, alpaca and guanaco.But I don’t
think there's any evidence for textiles woven from them, or from anything
else except bark and willow, on the eastern seaboard of Canada. Also, no
cotton (too cold) and no flax (no evidence of it).

The locals would have used skin and fur for clothing and blankets.

However, once they learned to weave from the Vikings, who knows what they
might have created? Look what the Navajo did once they got some sheep.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Käthe Barrows
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 8:44 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?

 What kinds of fibers would the scraelings have had to weave with?

Strips of leather?  Strips of bunny fur?  Some American native tribe wove of
strips of bunny fur, but I don't remember who or when.

so what would they have made clothes and blankets out of?

The Mexican natives (Aztec, Maya, etc.), and those south of them (Inca),
wove of something like wool - goat? mountain sheep? - pre European conquest.
Examples survive in museums.  The Northwest Coast natives also wove, but I
don't know when they started and if it was only after they got European
wool.  The American Southwest natives did too, same date/supply question.

--
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
“The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”   -William
Gibson
--
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Re: [h-cost] HELP!

[Kim Baird]

Justine--
To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a
grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue
grid.

You need to overlay your small pattern with a quarter-inch grid, if that is
not already done in your source. Then figure out what each quarter inch must
equal on your finished pattern to fit you. If your bust is 42, and the
pattern pieces would give a bust of  4 inches, you have to enlarge at least
10 times. So each quarter inch would have to be 10 quarters, which is 2.5
inches.

It is much easier to enlarge if you number both grids, the small one and the
large one. Just number each row down the side, and each column across the
top. Then you won't get lost when looking between the two.

All this takes a lot of time, and a big table. It would be far easier to
adjust a pattern you already have.

For a late Victorian bustle dress, just keep all the fullness in the back.
You could modify any skirt that has 5 or more panels. I usually make the
center front panel about 1/6 of the total finished size, use one panel on
each side, and 2 or 4 more in the back. Then I keep gathering up the back at
the waist until fits, and add some sort of waistband. You can have the
opening at any of the seams, but center back is easiest.

If you want an overskirt or draped apron of any kind, work with muslin,
folding and pinning until you get the shape you want, then make an overskirt
from your fashin fabric and attach it to the skirt. This is where you need
to get creative with placement of snaps and hooks and eyes. You need a
closure that is invisible.

A simple way to form a bustle is to use boning and ties. I put 2 rows of
twill tape, or something similar, inside the skirt. These are HORIZONTAL
rows, on the back only. Sew along the top and bottom to form a casing.
Boning goes into the casing. Attach a tie at each end of the casing, and
simply tie the ends together, forcing the boning to bow out and shape the
bustle. The ties rest on the back of your legs.

Of course, you wear a petticoat. And you can't use cheap plastic boning--I
had some plastic-covered metal stuff I ordered from somewhere.

The bodice is trickier--I would either enlarge from a book, or buy something
authentic from Laughing Moon or Truly Victorian.

Don't know if this is very helpful--it's hard to explain without
illustrations!

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of ladybeanofbun...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] HELP!

Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging
bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or
make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new
acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this,
as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to
facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would
try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns,
but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to
arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much
for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns).

The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite
often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in
the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of
skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so!

Here are my main questions.
1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or
least math saavy way?
2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm
ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt??

These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance
would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that
I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the
right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so
daunting having never done it before.

Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others
for your patience:)

Regards,
Justine.

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Re: [h-cost] Kimonos, etc.

[Kim Baird]

A museum curator might be able to tell her what she has, but she won't
appraise or value the items. It's against the rules for museums to do that.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sid Young
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 1:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kimonos, etc.

I would suggest contacting a museum first as they are the real deal so to
speak...

Sidney



On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 4:05 PM, Sharon Collier
sha...@collierfam.comwrote:

 A friend of mine had to move and is getting rid of all sorts of 
 things. One is an old suitcase filled with kimonos, sashes, etc. (I 
 know nothing about Japanese clothing) She says they were brought over 
 from Japan right after WWII. She wants to sell them on e-bay, but has no
idea how much to ask.
 Anyone know anything about this? Or where we can look?
 SharonC.
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Re: [h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion indetail

[Kim Baird]

 
The paperback has no color photos. I did locate the 1975 hard cover edition
at used bookstores on line for around $25.

Kim
Nancy Bradfield's _Costume in
 Detail 1730-1930_ - but she doesn't show photographs, it's all line 
 drawings.

The first edition hardback has photos in color.  I own the second edition
hardback, which has no photos but more costume drawings.
Haven't looked in the paperback edition.

--
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God.
--
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Re: [h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion indetail

[Kim Baird]

For interior details, check out Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 (Paperback) by
Nancy Bradfield 
Amazon has it.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 9:30 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion
indetail

Hi everyone,
I've just got some bonus money and I'm planning on spending some of it on
books. I'm looking for a book that will show me internal construction
details of Victorian era clothing preferably using detailed photos. Looking
on Amazon I found Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail by Lucy Johnston, so
for those who have a copy does it include these sort of details (or it is
external decorative details like embroidery or ruching). My final question
is Amazon UK has two books listed one that's in print
http://tinyurl.com/oobv6x and one that's out of print
http://tinyurl.com/oapatu Does anyone know if there are any differences
between the editions apart from the cover?
Thanks
Elizabeth
---
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

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Re: [h-cost] Pattern for red dress on Dr Who

[Kim Baird]

I would start with Simplicity 2589. It should be easy to modify for what you
want.
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=2589

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sid Young
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 9:48 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Pattern for red dress on Dr Who

I am trying to locate a suitable pattern to possibly recreate the red dress
featured on an episode of the Sci Fi show Dr Who


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[h-cost] Quilt at the VA

[Kim Baird]

Help!

I know I remember someone talking about the Tristan and Isolde quilt at the
VA, and perhaps some new research that is being done? I couldn't find
anything in the archives.
If you know anything, please contact me.
Thanks
Kim
kba...@cableone.net

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[h-cost] Ladies and gentlemen

[Kim Baird]

Justine--

I think that home schoolers might be very interested in your
Victorian/Edwardian society. There is probably an organization of them
(perhaps several) in your area. Let them know what you are planning.

Kim

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[h-cost] 1940s patterns on Ebay

[Kim Baird]

 Please note that the copyright date on vintage commercial patterns NEVER
matches the actual date of issue. For some reason, they copyright date,
which is the only date I've ever seen on these, is always EARLIER than the
actual pattern and style.

The Vogue pattern (2885) looks very much like a wool wedding suit I have
seen, from WWII. The suit was made by a tailor (the bride worked for him)
and the jacket was straight on the bottom, not shaped like the Vogue
pattern. The skirt was more A-line, less tapered. BTW, the suit was from
Minnesota.

I've put some photos on my facebook page, and anyone can access them via
this link:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=67057id=529974599l=03d64ac9ae

Kim

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[h-cost] Foyle's War

[Kim Baird]

 
Ooh, that was a great series! It is available from Netflix.

Kim
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of albert...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 5:04 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1940s patterns (can anyone narrow down the date)

 
In a message dated 4/1/2009 5:26:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
purpl...@optonline.net writes:

There  was(is) a BBC show on PBS called Foyle's War - it is set in England
during  WWII.


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Re: [h-cost] Need help with wool Was: Arnolfi gown - fabric

[Kim Baird]

 The wool you have is worsted. That means the fibers were combed before
spinning and weaving. All the short fibers are gone. The resulting fabric is
smooth, and will not full the way woolens will. The twill weave also
contributes to its smooth, un-fuzzy appearance. That's just the way this
fabric is--you can't change it.

I can't see the weave of the fabric in the picture. Looking at the original
painting might help, but it might not. It's not a photo, after all.

Here is what I would do--
Make some gathers in the fabric, exactly like the waist of the gown. See if
it drapes the same way. (This is why you need a dress form)

Experiment with those pinked embellishments. Wash and dry enough of your
fabric to actually make some, and see if they look like the picture.

Kim




Sorry about the cross posts, and mildly inappropriate topic for some groups,
but I need help with what to do with this wool - if I should use it etc.

I have posted a journal entry which better describes the issue and has links
to some pictures. http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1589.html

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

 From: wickedf...@msn.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 16:59:35 -0700
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi gown - fabric
 
 
 Hmmm, I think what I have  is a very fine twill wool suiting.  I just
washed a four inch square and only got 7/8  shrinkage (only along the
length).  I am a little worried that it won't be fuzzy enoughit looks
so soft in the picture.  This, even when pinked maintains it's structure
very well.
 
 I washed the sample in hot water and dried it on high heatI know its
wool...I burn tested itbut it just wants to look very neat and
modern...
 
 Ah!
 
 Sg

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Re: [h-cost] Trouser Zippers

[Kim Baird]

Hanna--
I think you could go either way. Zippers were just coming into common use in
the 1930's, but men's formal wear was more conservative. So, the more formal
the suit, the less likely it was to have a zipper.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 9:49 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Trouser Zippers

Hello,

I´ll be making a man´s outfit - a chalk-striped three piece suit, and I am
wondering if the pants would have had a buttoned fly or already zippers in
1933. Any ideas?

Thank you,
Hanna

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Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Ribbon?

[Kim Baird]

Margo--
I consulted the expert,, the Oxford English Dictionary. In the 16th
century, ribbon, riband, and other variant spellings, meant the same thing
it means today. It could be a narrow strip of fabric intended to
ornamentation, but another meaning is strips of fabric, or tatters. Also,
strips of anything that are similar to ribbons. It's also been used in place
of sliver to mean a band of fiber ready to be spun.

It looks to me like a ribbon of fabric could be woven that way, or cut or
torn into a ribbon. Without more information, you can't determine what it is
from just the word ribbon.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 16th Century Ribbon?

I hope some of you textile history folks can help me:  In the 16th century,
did the word ribbon mean a narrow woven textile, or could it also mean a
narrow piece cut from wider fabric?

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom

[Kim Baird]

Wow! I've never seen such a wide backstrap loom.

Kim

The loom is a backstrap loom.  It's been used in Southeast Asia and China
for millennia.  The  basic weaving is probably plain weave; the patterned
stripe is done with a pick-up technique.  It's amazing that such a simple
loom can, in the hands of a skilled weaver, have a product that is so
complex.  Just goes to show that it's the skilled weaver rather than the
loom that is key to beautiful weaving.  Another area where the backstrap
loom has been used for millennia (and for very complex weaving) is in the
Andes.


Joan Jurancich
joa...@surewest.net 

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Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

[Kim Baird]

Margo--
I have used the attachment you describe, for buttonholes. That was in the
1960's. I've never had a machine since that made as good a buttonhole.

I have used my current machine, a top of the line Bernina, to make lacing
eyelets for corsets. I haven't been 100% satisfied, but I think the old
attachment will work better.

You might try using a heavier thread in the bobbin when you make these, and
see if that is sturdier.

Let us know how it goes.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 5:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer
attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size buttons.
Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and I'm wondering, has
anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period corsets and bodices?

I have a progressive hand condition, so it's important for me to keep my
handsewing to a minimum, and I can't bear the idea of using grommets!

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Garment-fitting question

[Kim Baird]

You might look for petite sizes. They are made for persons with shorter
torsos.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 3:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Garment-fitting question


Hi,
Making historical costumes fitted to myself and others has made me so much
more critical of the ways modern commercial clothes make me look even worse
than I have to! I gained a bunch of weight over the past couple of years
that I'm having trouble getting rid of, and yet I still have to get dressed
every day and leave the house. Sigh. 
The particular problem I am having with modern clothes is that things that
are big enough to go around my current girth are cut too long from waist to
hip. This gives some skirts and dresses a pot belly all on their own,
independent of mine. Is there any relatively simple alteration to the
clothes that would fix this, while I am working on the alterations to my
shape? I know I could take the waistbands off skirts and shorten the length
from waist to hip, so the skirt gets big where I do; one-piece dresses seem
to present a harder puzzle. In fact I'm a little confused about how they
manage to produce the paunch when they're not actually tight anywhere. Any
suggestions? 

Thank you. 
Lauren
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Need costume calendar

[Kim Baird]

Fran--

Check out this place:
http://www.calendars.com/index.asp?CE=1

I like these:

Dressing the Light 2009 Wall Calendar
The Little Black Dress 2009 Wall Calendar 

If you put FASHION in the search box, you'll get lots of possibilities.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 10:05 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Need costume calendar

I'm getting kind of desperate for a 2009 historic or vintage costume-related
wall calendar.  Any recommendations?

Fran
Lavolta Press
New book on 1820s clothing and needlework!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Re: [h-cost] sewing machines

[Kim Baird]

 
Susan wrote:
 The BEST advice I read was Just re-thread it.  I know you think you did
it right, but do it over.  On the few occasions that I had thread tangle, I
simply re-threaded and it was OK.

Here's a tip for threading your machine--the spool should be VERTICAL, not
horizontal, for best thread flow. Thread with the presser foot UP so that
the tension discs are open, and your thread can go in.

And if you are buying a machine, DON'T buy a Singer, unless it is old, black
and metal. Check out your local Bernina dealer--they may have something
wonderful available as a trade in.

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] sewing machines and button holes

[Kim Baird]

I hate to say it, but an old black Singer, with the buttonhole attachment,
makes the best buttonholes ever. 
Other than that, you'd have to go pretty high end to get a decent automatic
buttonhole. The newest computer machines will even measure the button for
you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size, and sew all
the holes the same.

Kim 


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Re: [h-cost] sewing machines

[Kim Baird]

 
Andy wrote:
The ultimate portable is the Elna Lotus. This model was made in the 70's and
80's. It's smaller than a Singer Featherweight and self-boxing, but has
about a dozen stitches and a good buttonhole system.

I have one of these, and it is a great little machine, perfect for travel.
There are 3 on ebay at the moment.

You should consider a Janome Gem for travel. I've heard good things about
them.
Kim


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Re: [h-cost] OT-Over-dyeing wool melton

[Kim Baird]

You can't make a fuchsia into a lighter pink, you''ll have to go darker, or
at least toned down.

I would try some brown dye on it. Start with a smaller amount--you can
always re-dye darker, if you need to. 

Why don't you just put in a label that says DRY CLEAN ONLY?

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of zelda crusher
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 11:29 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT-Over-dyeing wool melton


You guys know wool better than any sewing list I belong to...
I know that some of this has been covered previously, but I had no luck
finding it in the archives (I am only semi computer literate).
 
I have two questions about this fabric:
http://tinyurl.com/5bwd3h
 
1) I am going to make a coat for my 16 year old daughter (some of you may
remember I just did this last spring
[http://laswa.livejournal.com/24074.html#cutid1]), but she wore it in the
rain and her father's girlfriend threw it in the dryer and it shrank down
too much to use.  Sigh.  Is it practicable to pre-shrink the fabric enough
to prevent this happening again?  And still have the fabric be usable (ie
not wavy and weird to work with)?
 
2) The color is a little loud for even her, so I would like to overdye it,
to perhaps one of these two shades.  I know dyeing is always a bit
unpredicatable, but how do I guess what color to overdye with to get what
shade?
 
http://tinyurl.com/5hbaw6
 
http://tinyurl.com/6f29yg
 
Thanks so much,
Laurie
 
 
_
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows
Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/
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Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

[Kim Baird]

 
You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of jerking
going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether it's
dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I also like
to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well.
However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much heat,
and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.

If you like to sew with cotton, look for Mettler silk finish. There is no
silk in it, but it is very smooth and a little bit shiny. Works well for
hand or machine sewing. I use it for quilting, too.

Kim

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Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

[Kim Baird]

Fran--
I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I really
liked it. I still don't use it for quilting, but it is very handy for
garment sewing. It finishes off seam allowances quickly and beautifully. I
use it when sewing Victorian clothing, too. I'm not about to finish all
those seams by hand overcasting, when they're not visible while wearing the
garment anyway.

Two other handy uses: rolled hems, such as napkins, and gathering anything.

Because they have so many possible settings, and differential feed, you can
make them do many different things. If you get a serger, please take a class
or two on what they can do.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 6:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

I've never liked serging but:  Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? I
know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams that
can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I never sew
knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm adding to the
machine collection. . .

I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the bentwood
case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great straight
stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had another machine,
and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it easy to get them into
good condition?  Mine was like new.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Kim Baird wrote:
  
 You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of 
 jerking going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, 
 whether it's dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or 
 Metrosene. I also like to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it
covers the edge so well.
 However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much 
 heat, and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.
 

snip
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Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

[Kim Baird]

Take a look at Baby Lock or Bernette sergers.

Sewing machine dealers sell sergers, but they are not made by sewing machine
manufacturers. They are all made in Asia, to the specifications of the
company that puts its name on them.

Over the years, they have added many features to the original, home overlock
machine. Some of them are useful, some are only additional expense. 

I would recommend a 3/4 thread model with differential feed. You do NOT need
to pay extra for a serger that sets its own tensions for the different
stitches. A little practice and setting tensions is simple to do. In fact,
you are expected to adjust the tension any time you serge on a different
fabric, or with a different thread. 

Since you don't sew with knits, you won't need a cover stitch. This is the
stitch used to hem T-shirts, etc. Some sergers can convert from overlock to
cover stitch and back again, but you won't use this feature.

Models made within the last 10 years should be fairly easy to thread. You
don't need to buy something with an automatic threading system, unless you
want to spend the extra money. I do save time by tying the new thread on to
the old one, and pulling it through with the tension turned to zero.

You can get a blind hem foot for your serger, if you want to finish the raw
edge and hem at the same time, and at high speed. I usually find it easier
not to do this, but if I had a lot of curtains or something large to do, it
would come in handy.

Do try the machine before you buy. If it sounds clackety or feels shaky when
it sews, it's probably too cheaply made and you shouldn't buy it.

You can probably find a decent, used 3/4 thread serger with differential
feed under $300. If you buy from a dealer, don't hesitate to dicker on
price. If they won't come down, maybe they'll throw in a free accessory.

Good luck.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

What model would you recommend?

Thanks,

Fran

Kim Baird wrote:
 Fran--
 I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I 
 really liked it. I
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Re: [h-cost] Corset pattern 1895

[Kim Baird]

Deredere--

I really like the corset from Laughing Moon:
http://www.lafnmoon.com/

Kim


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 4:55 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Corset pattern 1895

Hi,

I was looking at several corset patterns.
And I was wondering if anyone could recommend me a pattern for a corset for
1895

The best I could find is Past Patterns 106B/P Edwardian corset. 
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=106B.html
cart_id=5688090_4173
But is a little late

Or the corset on page 82 from corsets and crinolines. That one is from mid
1890's and looks comfortable with the elastic on the hips.


Deredere
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RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

[Kim Baird]

Sounds like a costume ball, sometimes called fancy dress ball.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Agnes Gawne
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:04 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically regarding
a ball in Washington DC.  Do any of you have any idea why an 1867 woman
would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck?

Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay.  He was
Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln administration
and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson
administration.  He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when he'd
just returned from Paris.

begin quote:
February 11.  Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball.  The ladies who danced
the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a la marquise.
I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a
roomful.   Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with
whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and Mrs.
Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the blue ribbon
around the neck, a little refinement in which she was alone -- Miss Kinzie,
a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse.
Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully dressed.
:end quote

I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as they
are just theories.

Thanks,
Agnes 

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[h-cost] iron

[Kim Baird]

I have one very much like this: Euro-Pro EP8001 Steam Generator Iron, see
http://www.amazon.com/Euro-Pro-EP8001-Steam-Generator-Iron/dp/B6RVIJ
I don't think the brand makes much difference, as long as you get the
external tank. I've used many irons over the years, and nothing works as
well as having the tank full of steam at the touch of a button.

However, I do have a Eruo Pro ironing table, with suction. I think this
makes a lot of difference, too. Even for cotton or linen, I don't need very
high heat. The steam and the suction work together to get all the wrinkles
out. They don't make that one anymore, but there are other brands, such as
Hi Steam PND 1000AC, 700W Vacuum Suction Commercial Ironing Board , see
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp02315-0794.html

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 5:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT

I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or sixth time,
and it finally started to leak.  Wha!

I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in 2006.  (I
wrote them and asked them to do another soon.) I also contacted Threads
magazine since most of their recent reviews are on more expensive ironing
systems.

But I'm interested in your personal experiences.  What do you like best? Are
you aware of reviews in other publications?
I've had great luck with my Rowenta(s), but am also aware that their service
records in years past hasn't been great.

Don't forget Model numbers - sometimes they just aren't available anymore!

Thanks

Sg

P.S. If you have an ironing system you use and like, please give your
opinon.


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RE: [h-cost] A bit OT doll bustle dress question for bonnet

[Kim Baird]

Deredere:

I would suggest a fairly plain straw hat with a ribbon , either a boater, or
a wider brin, perhaps tied under the chin.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 6:21 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] A bit OT doll bustle dress question for bonnet

Hi,

It as been so long since I was able to make a historic costume.
Not much time anymore so now I make them in smaller size :-) .

It is for a doll that hopefully will arrive soon from Korea.

I am making her a beautiful sheer cotton bustle dress.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dolls/BJD.html

I was wondering what would be worn wit it?
A nice bonnet or a hat?

Greetings,
   Deredere

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RE: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

[Kim Baird]

I like dress C, and you could use the tropical weght wool for it. Or the
black orchid fabric, which sounnds like faille, a ribbed fabric with
plenty of body .

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 4:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

Greetings folks!

It seems my costuming inspiration has come back with a vengeance. After much
lurking and dithering, I'm going to be making two Victorian (or early
Edwardian?) outfits in preparation for CostumeCon 26, but need a little help
with details.

Ageless Patterns for inspirations and then Truly Victorian and Laughing Moon
were posited as good starting patterns for me (I don't think the person
recommending realized I owned/had access to several of Fran's books).  I've
been going through my book and the local library's selection, as well as
several online sites trying to see what general silhouettes appeal most to
me, and it looks like from about 1887 to 1899, and a couple of pieces from
1905 are the ones I'll be trying to focus on, with more of the walking/day
type skirts, not the evening gowns.

I'm not experienced at drafting up yet, so this will be a good learning
experience, no matter what outfits I choose. Plus of course trying to get a
decent idea of color combinations and trim/decorative styles for that time
period.

My sister-in-law will be letting me rifle through her Truly Victorian and
Laughing Moon undergarment and basic skirt/bodice patterns, which will help
me see better as my computer doesn't show them well.

The three primary types of silhouettes I seem to come up with are as
follows, with questions at the end.

A: http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1008.GIF

B:  http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1488.GIF

C:  http://www.vintagevictorian.com/images/Del_3_94d.jpg


A: 1887 Braided Cloth Gown w/Bell Skirt:  This gown was made of bluet-blue
cloth with a vest of dark blue velvet and braiding in dark blue soutache.
The waist is a belted blouse, cut low on the velvet vest, with the fronts
connected by a clasp.  Design for soutache braid included.


B:  1899 Gown Trimmed w/Persian Lamb: The pattern for this terra cotta
colored cloth gown trimmed with embroidery and Persian lamb consists of
bodice, outer skirt, underskirt and pattern for embroidery. 

C:  I like this piece as well, it looks very similar to 5 of the ones in the
1890's Dover book I've got checked out, or one that's pictured in R. Turner
Wilcox's The Mode in Costume out of peacock green with black accents and a
violet satin waist and belt.  

Query 1:  On dress A, isn't a Bell Skirt more 1890's?  I like the thought of
playing with the detailing like this, but am confused at what the back would
look like.  Is anyone familiar with this particular pattern who can clear it
up for me?  Also, what is meant by a velvet vest under the waist?  Is that
simply a sleeved garment under the blouse, or something else?  

Query 2:  Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used so
that I can better visualize them?  I do okay with only written descriptions,
but examples I can see work much better.  I have some long lengths of white
gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel combination that I
think would look nice on a hem or edging, but that's without any knowledge,
and I'd rather have something that doesn't look like an inspired costume.

Query 3: Fabrics/colors.  I've got a tropical weight bright jade/peacock
green wool (almost 20 yards, it was at a thrift store), lots of lightweight
black wool (off cuts from a garment store averaging about 2 yards each), 10
yards of an icy greyed lavender faux shot silk, 10 yards of a black orchid
grosgrain type fabric and 10 yards of a medium rose linen weave, plus lots
of white, black, green and purple bits of velvets, satins, laces and wools
that I could pull out for accents.  They are all plain fabrics, as is most
of my hoard, but I tend to prefer to err that way, than with patterns.
Would any of these work?


Sorry for the rambling, I stayed up a bit too late reading and playing with
images for this last night and am paying for it at work today.

Thank you for your time!

JonnaLyhn Wolfcat

who will also be doing two 1940's outfits-one suit and one evening gown, I
have EVIL friends!


 


Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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RE: [h-cost] Textile Question

[Kim Baird]

According to your definition, it's a fabric.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 2:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Textile Question

I am sorry Andrew, I twisted my words around:

My question according to this definition: Is clay worsted a yarn, weave, or
fabric?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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[h-cost] Thread, fusible webs

[Kim Baird]

 
I've been reading the posts about stitching through Heat and Bond, and what
sewing machine salesmen have to say about threads.

There are MANY brands of fusible web on the market. Personally, I never use
Heat n Bond, even if I get some free. Nasty stuff. If you must use it for
sewing through, get the LIGHT version. The regular stuff is not meant to be
sewn. Check out other brands at your local fabric or quilt shop.

Another alternative is a temporary spray adhesive. I recommend Sulky KK2000.

Guterman is quality thread, and should not give you any trouble, UNLESS you
happen to have some of the spools that were made in Mexico. (The label will
say Mexico). They tried this for a while, and quickly dropped it--the thread
was very poor quality. That was several years ago.

Mettler makes polyester all-purpose thread (Metrosene) and cotton thread in
several weights. I like Mettler silk-finish cotton for both hand and machine
sewing. It has a smooth, shiny finish, but is completely cotton. They also
make a cotton embroidery thread, which is finer. It isn't strong enough for
constructing seams. Mettler makes polyester threads on large cones designed
for sergers also. They sell a line of cotton thread designated for hand
quilting, but I prefer to use the silk-finish cotton for hand quilting--it
looks nicer, and flows more smoothly.

JP Coats also makes quality thread, I have no qualms about using it. If
your machine holds the spool horizontally, Coats spools may not work as well
(mine is vertical).

One thread that can give you problems in any brand is black. For some
reason, that is harder to manufacture without slubs. If you get a bad spool
of black, return it for exchange.

A well made sewing machine, in good working order, should NOT have any
trouble with Guterman thread--machine salesmen sometimes tell you these
things as an excuse when the machine they want to sell you isn't sewing
properly. (no flames from salespersons, please--I used to be one myself. I
know that not all of us are unscrupulous.)

Kim

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RE: [h-cost] fabric shopping

[Kim Baird]

Try this one:

http://www.denverfabrics.com/ 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 3:49 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] fabric shopping

Hi,
   
  I was wondering whether any of you have some recommendations for e-shops
with fabrics or shops that would send me a catalogue? Some shops that would
have basic fabrics like satin, taffeta etc. in various colours? I always get
in trouble when searching for one specific colour...
   
  Thanks a lot,
   
  Zuzana
   
   

   
-
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RE: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix

[Kim Baird]

Quite a few of the dresses looked historically inspired, not to mention the
Marie Antoinette hair.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 4:15 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Christian Lacroix

Its sunday, and usually borring on h-costume so i thoaght it would be ok to
send a clip of Christian Lacroix' new collection, to me it looks fabulous,
with lots of gorgeous beadings. The weddingdress is very italian
rennaissance fantasy to me.
http://www.dr.dk/NETTV/Update/2007/07/04/20070704110115.htm





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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RE: [h-cost] Bernina Sewing machine user manuals

[Kim Baird]

This site claims to have manuals for many models, both print anPDF versions:

http://www.sewconsult.com/bernina_instruction_manuals.htm

Kim (no affiliation) 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 4:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Bernina Sewing machine user manuals

Gentles of The Lists,
  would anyone like to point me in the direction of a good source
[downloadable or otherwise] for Users manuals for the following Bernina
machines - the 700, 730,  Bernina CMatic 801 Electronic?
   
  Our little Island-isolated groups of  living-history interpreters and SCA
members wanted to start making garb, - and I've bought in a number of sewing
machines from our local equivalent of Goodwill.  Before they go out on
loan to members, I want to make sure they all have user manuals. The
trouble is that none of them had user manuals when I bought them secondhand,
and though I've had them all serviced at my own expense by the local Sewing
Machine Engineer, he couldn't provide me with copies of the User manuals for
any of them.
   
  Help! Please?
   
  Matthew Baker
  dwelling in old Jersey.
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[h-cost] Fashion citation

[Kim Baird]

 Oh, how I have longed to issue citations or fines to docents wearing
zippers on Victorian clothing, or polyester doubleknits. . .but I restrain
myself.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 8:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: volunteering

Fashion citation to volunteers?  That is downright funny!  I just about
spewed my drink on the screen laughing...

The idea for merit awards is a much better idea..
Gia

-- Original message --
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer 
 at a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm 
 house, but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other 
 ladies and they're nice.
 
 Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'? 
 
 Hey, Dawn
 I just started showing up. Every month. (That's when the site did 
 living history: just once a month.) Pretty soon I was on the events 
 planning committee, the next year head of another committee, another 
 year later I was on the board, then president.
 Unless it's Sturbridge or Billburg (er, Williamsburg) most sites dont 
 say no, thank-you.
 
 That said, we had our own problems, like the park ranger we had for a 
 few years who was an ex-LA cop. She wanted to issue citations (like 
 traffic citations, not like merit badges) to volunteers who, in the 
 ranger's opinion, didnt measure up, usually in some trivial way. I 
 remember the fashion violation she tried to issue...
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] RE: Things to do in DC [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

[Kim Baird]

I have stayed at the Harrington. Not elegant, but clean and reasonable, in a
great location.

Kim

http://www.hotel-harrington.com/ 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Wilson, Annette
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 7:39 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Things to do in DC [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

I will be in Washington DC with my husband for two and a half days in late
July.
The exhibitions so far described sound interesting, especially the one on
Red at the Textile Museum and the Italian Renaissance and Baroque Women
Painters

I hope they will still be on, and I would also be grateful for advice on any
really good fabric shops there, though if I remember right this was
discussed not long ago and there wasn't much.

Can any one also recommend (off-list since it isn't topical) a good,
reasonably priced hotel which is fairly central to the Smithsonian musuems?

I'm really looking forward to this - it will be the first time we have been
to Washington except for a stopover at the airport (which doesn't count :-)

Annette Wilson
in wintery Canberra, Australia

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RE: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

[Kim Baird]

Fran--

If you want muddy colors, add black dye, or the complement of the color you
are using.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 1:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

I order from Dharma all the time. I am just having trouble reconciling the
heat and agitation most wool-dyeing instructions require, with what that
might do to wool, particularly wool that has already been knitted up and
thefore shrinkage is an issue. Most people seem to be dyeing yarn.

I like muddy colors though, and can't usually achieve them with Procion MX
dyes, which I have lots of around.  I know they are not officially wool dyes
but people seem to use them for wook anyway.

Fran

Sharon Collier wrote:

 Try Dharma Trading Company. They have lovely dyes that work in cold 
 water. I have used them on cotton T-shirts and the dyes stays bright 
 and doesn't wash out. Colors aren't muddy.
 
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RE: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

[Kim Baird]

Fran--

You can dye wool with Procion MX cold water dyes. You won't need heat, just
enough agitation to make sure it dyes evenly .

Kim

Get them from www.dharmatrading.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 4:59 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

Any advice on how to dye an ivory colored, modern, machine knitted 100% wool
turtleneck sweater some less boring but solid color, without felting it or
otherwise damaging the texture?  The heat and agitation in most dye
instructions, even those for wool, makes me very antsy.  I'm not really into
dyeing or working with wool, but I got this sweater for Christmas years ago,
have never worn it because it's boring, and have decided I might as well dye
it.  If it works, I have a nice-quality ivory 1950s cashmere cardigan I'd
like to do next.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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[h-cost] Button question

[Kim Baird]

An interesting item is on eBay, a set of buttons with matching bar pins and
some strange, metal curly things. Can anyone tell me what these were for?
Search for item # 320110929170   

Kim


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RE: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

[Kim Baird]

NOT Victorian or Edwardian.

Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 10:39 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061

Can anybody tell me, roughly, what year this pattern might represent?

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B5061=xTI=10
001page=4

Is that Victorian? 20th century? Something else? I kind of like the
nightgown.



Dawn


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RE: [h-cost] shoe sizes

[Kim Baird]

Bjarne--

A size 8 US men's shoe would be a 38 or 39 European size.
You can't trust US sizes, though--they vary quite a bit.
Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 7:33 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] shoe sizes

Does any know what a size 8 for mens shoes would be in european nr´s.
I use a size 38 but i think they would fit.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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