Re: KR> Epoxy clean up.
Vinegar also cleans epoxy amazingly well. On Thu, Feb 7, 2019, 10:36 AM Mark Jones via KRnet I have found that rubbing alcohol will clean up epoxy from hands, floor, > table top or anything else with ease of just a wipe or two. Of course the > epoxy has to be uncured. It will not affect dried epoxy. > > Mark Jones > Oldsmar, Fl > > N771MJ “WunderBird” > www.flykr2s.com > flyk...@gmail.com > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Epoxy clean up.
I have found that rubbing alcohol will clean up epoxy from hands, floor, table top or anything else with ease of just a wipe or two. Of course the epoxy has to be uncured. It will not affect dried epoxy. Mark Jones Oldsmar, Fl N771MJ “WunderBird” www.flykr2s.com flyk...@gmail.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
No It prevents mold as I said previously. Sent from my iPad > On Sep 18, 2018, at 12:01 PM, Flesner via KRnet wrote: > >> On 9/18/2018 12:29 PM, Joe Beyer via KRnet wrote: >> Correction. It’s Titanium dioxide not Aluminum, that’s used in sunscreen. >> Joe > > +++ > > > So, my KR can set in the sun without getting a burn? > > Larry Flesner > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
On 9/18/2018 12:29 PM, Joe Beyer via KRnet wrote: Correction. It’s Titanium dioxide not Aluminum, that’s used in sunscreen. Joe +++ So, my KR can set in the sun without getting a burn? Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
Correction. It’s Titanium dioxide not Aluminum, that’s used in sunscreen. Joe Sent from my iPad > On Sep 18, 2018, at 7:27 AM, Joe Beyer wrote: > > I used it for my kr-2. It is Shell 862 resin with aluminum dioxide (that > makes it white) and the resin is diluted. The harder is TETA and works with > the Shell resin. It meets FAA standards. The aluminum dioxide prevents mold > from weakening over time. > Joe > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Sep 18, 2018, at 5:49 AM, Flesner via KRnet wrote: >> >> >> >> Has anyone besides me used FPL-16A epoxy for building the boat? It was >> developed by Forest Products Laboratory and ranked as good or better than >> anything they tested. >> >> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/hughesglue.php >> >> Larry Flesner >> >> >> >> ___ >> Search the KRnet Archives at >> https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. >> Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. >> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change >> options. >> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
I used it for my kr-2. It is Shell 862 resin with aluminum dioxide (that makes it white) and the resin is diluted. The harder is TETA and works with the Shell resin. It meets FAA standards. The aluminum dioxide prevents mold from weakening over time. Joe Sent from my iPad > On Sep 18, 2018, at 5:49 AM, Flesner via KRnet wrote: > > > > Has anyone besides me used FPL-16A epoxy for building the boat? It was > developed by Forest Products Laboratory and ranked as good or better than > anything they tested. > > https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/hughesglue.php > > Larry Flesner > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
Has anyone besides me used FPL-16A epoxy for building the boat? It was developed by Forest Products Laboratory and ranked as good or better than anything they tested. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/hughesglue.php Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
Richard, Not sure I agree with your assessment of West Systems. See there web site at; https://www.westsystem.com/ I have used it with cotton flox for structural gluing. And with micro for non-structural. It is used extensive in boat building for all purposes. Thanks, Rob Schmitt N1852Z -Original Message- From: KRnet On Behalf Of Richard Kaczmarek via KRnet Sent: Monday, September 17, 2018 9:48 PM To: KRnet Cc: Richard Kaczmarek Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy One thing to remember West is not a structural epoxy. A better system to use is ProSet it is the same manufacturer. If you are looking to save money another option is Jeffco and only AS sells it. It is a structural epoxy and does have a good pot life if you are doing a large project and it's not 90+ deg. On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 9:57 PM Robert Russell via KRnet wrote: > I see AS is selling ecopoxy as well . > Has anyone used it? > Bob R > Winnipeg > - Original Message - > From: Rllanning via KRnet > To: KRnet > Cc: Rllanning > Sent: Mon, 17 Sep 2018 21:53:40 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy > > I agree with Brian EZ is by far the best. > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Sep 17, 2018, at 9:01 PM, brian.kraut--- via KRnet < > krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote: > > > > You really should give EZPoxy a try. I have tried the all and find > > it > by far the best. Dug up my old comparison here: > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/msg01666.html > > > > > > Brian Kraut > > 904-536-1780 > > br...@eamanuacturing.com > > > > > > Original Message > > Subject: KR> Epoxy > > From: mark jones via KRnet > > Date: Mon, September 17, 2018 10:36 am > > To: krnet@list.krnet.org > > Cc: mark jones > > > > What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are > > they > equal for wetting out wing skins? > > > > Mark Jones > > Oldsmar, Fl > > www.flykr2s.com > > flyk...@gmail.com > > > > > > ___ > > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change options. > > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > > krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
One thing to remember West is not a structural epoxy. A better system to use is ProSet it is the same manufacturer. If you are looking to save money another option is Jeffco and only AS sells it. It is a structural epoxy and does have a good pot life if you are doing a large project and it's not 90+ deg. On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 9:57 PM Robert Russell via KRnet wrote: > I see AS is selling ecopoxy as well . > Has anyone used it? > Bob R > Winnipeg > - Original Message - > From: Rllanning via KRnet > To: KRnet > Cc: Rllanning > Sent: Mon, 17 Sep 2018 21:53:40 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy > > I agree with Brian EZ is by far the best. > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Sep 17, 2018, at 9:01 PM, brian.kraut--- via KRnet < > krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote: > > > > You really should give EZPoxy a try. I have tried the all and find it > by far the best. Dug up my old comparison here: > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/msg01666.html > > > > > > Brian Kraut > > 904-536-1780 > > br...@eamanuacturing.com > > > > > > Original Message > > Subject: KR> Epoxy > > From: mark jones via KRnet > > Date: Mon, September 17, 2018 10:36 am > > To: krnet@list.krnet.org > > Cc: mark jones > > > > What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are they > equal for wetting out wing skins? > > > > Mark Jones > > Oldsmar, Fl > > www.flykr2s.com > > flyk...@gmail.com > > > > > > ___ > > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change options. > > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
I see AS is selling ecopoxy as well . Has anyone used it? Bob R Winnipeg - Original Message - From: Rllanning via KRnet To: KRnet Cc: Rllanning Sent: Mon, 17 Sep 2018 21:53:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy I agree with Brian EZ is by far the best. Sent from my iPad > On Sep 17, 2018, at 9:01 PM, brian.kraut--- via KRnet > wrote: > > You really should give EZPoxy a try. I have tried the all and find it by far > the best. Dug up my old comparison here: > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/msg01666.html > > > Brian Kraut > 904-536-1780 > br...@eamanuacturing.com > > > -------- Original Message > Subject: KR> Epoxy > From: mark jones via KRnet > Date: Mon, September 17, 2018 10:36 am > To: krnet@list.krnet.org > Cc: mark jones > > What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are they equal > for wetting out wing skins? > > Mark Jones > Oldsmar, Fl > www.flykr2s.com > flyk...@gmail.com > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
I agree with Brian EZ is by far the best. Sent from my iPad > On Sep 17, 2018, at 9:01 PM, brian.kraut--- via KRnet > wrote: > > You really should give EZPoxy a try. I have tried the all and find it by far > the best. Dug up my old comparison here: > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/msg01666.html > > > Brian Kraut > 904-536-1780 > br...@eamanuacturing.com > > > ---- Original Message > Subject: KR> Epoxy > From: mark jones via KRnet > Date: Mon, September 17, 2018 10:36 am > To: krnet@list.krnet.org > Cc: mark jones > > What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are they equal > for wetting out wing skins? > > Mark Jones > Oldsmar, Fl > www.flykr2s.com > flyk...@gmail.com > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
You really should give EZPoxy a try. I have tried the all and find it by far the best. Dug up my old comparison here: https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/msg01666.htmlBrian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com Original Message Subject: KR> Epoxy From: mark jones via KRnet <krnet@list.krnet.org> Date: Mon, September 17, 2018 10:36 am To: krnet@list.krnet.org Cc: mark jones <flyk...@gmail.com> What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are they equal for wetting out wing skins? Mark Jones Oldsmar, Fl www.flykr2s.com flyk...@gmail.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
That’s pretty much my consensus on what I have researched. I drove up to Georgia today to visit mom and she is 50 miles from AS&S in Peachtree City. I’m headed there in the morning to get Aeropoxy and other things that cost lots to ship. Thanks for your input. Mark Jones Oldsmar, Fl www.flykr2s.com flyk...@gmail.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
Mark Jones wrote: > What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are they > equal for wetting out wing skins? It's probably a moot pointsome folks like one or the other. I have used them both, and I do like Aeropoxy better (and that's what I've used most). I went through a gallon of West with the "slow" hardener, and I wasn't sure it was ever going to cure at 72 degrees. So I tried the "fast" hardener, and it went off so fast that it concerned me enough that I put the cup on the concrete floor in case it spontaneously combusted! So it looks to me like West is more susceptible to exothermic reaction than Aeropoxy, at least the "fast" is, and that you can only mix small batches at a time for small jobs. It may be just the ticket for those who work out in the cold north, but I suspect most would use the "slow"certainly for wing skins. You could start by reading the instructions for both Aeropoxy and West 105 (with 205 "fast" hardener and 206 "slow" hardener for an idea for the cure times) and see what you prefer. Both of these are available on West's website. Personally, I find the Aeropoxy to have a less objectionable smell. Whatever you use, I'd weigh it on a gram scale to assure that it's at the proper proportion. I'm not a big fan of the pump system, especially for small batches. Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Epoxy
Mark, Both will work fine. I think that Aeropoxy was just a little less expensive. It also takes longer to cure/harden which isn't a bad thing when doing such a large layup as a wing skin. Thanks, Rob Schmitt N1852Z -Original Message- From: KRnet On Behalf Of mark jones via KRnet Sent: Monday, September 17, 2018 12:36 PM To: krnet@list.krnet.org Cc: mark jones Subject: KR> Epoxy What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are they equal for wetting out wing skins? Mark Jones Oldsmar, Fl www.flykr2s.com flyk...@gmail.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Epoxy
What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy. Are they equal for wetting out wing skins? Mark Jones Oldsmar, Fl www.flykr2s.com flyk...@gmail.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
I think it's well established that vinylester epoxies are the most fuel resistant. How well that will stick over other epoxy is not something I know. Mike Taglieri On Fri, Jul 20, 2018, 10:33 AM jeb via KRnet wrote: > My fiberglass tank developed a leak while doing a weight & balance. > I'm leaning on slosh and another thick coat of epoxy inside (after > cutting the bottom off) > I'm looking for opinions on the best fuel resistant epoxy. > > thanks in advance. > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy - vinyl ester fuel resistance
Jeb wrote: > I'm looking for opinions on the best fuel resistant epoxy. I don't know of any truly fuel resistant epoxies. Vinyl ester resin (which Aircraft Spruce sells) is very fuel resistant. That's what I built N56ML's tanks with, and run auto fuel with ethanol with no problems...several thousand gallons so far. See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/vinylesterkit.php?clickkey=22165 , which is what I used. If I were to do any sloshing, I'd do it with vinyl ester resin. This is off subject, but viny lester resin can be applied over epoxy, while epoxy over vinylester doesn't work so well. Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com On 7/20/2018 9:32 AM, jeb via KRnet wrote: My fiberglass tank developed a leak while doing a weight & balance. I'm leaning on slosh and another thick coat of epoxy inside (after cutting the bottom off) I'm looking for opinions on the best fuel resistant epoxy. thanks in advance. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
My fiberglass tank developed a leak while doing a weight & balance. I'm leaning on slosh and another thick coat of epoxy inside (after cutting the bottom off) I'm looking for opinions on the best fuel resistant epoxy. I can't advise on the epoxy but I'd personally shy away from any "slosh". You more than likely have a few pin hole leaks that a wet coat of epoxy will seal, especially if you intend to cut the tank open anyway. Fuel will exit in volume through a hole too small for water to pass. I had a similar problem 15 years ago with left wing tank. I opened up the bottom and painted on a rich coat of epoxy, added one layer of glass to the bottom with rich coat of epoxy, and sealed the tank closed again. No problems 15 years later. Put the bottom back on with epoxy rich flox and maybe one layer of glass on the outside. You can try to find the leak with about 2 pounds of air pressure in the tank and use a section of hose, placing one end in the ear and scanning the tank surface with the other. When you hit the leak you'll know it. Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> epoxy
My fiberglass tank developed a leak while doing a weight & balance. I'm leaning on slosh and another thick coat of epoxy inside (after cutting the bottom off) I'm looking for opinions on the best fuel resistant epoxy. thanks in advance. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Epoxy Basics article in kitplanes May issue
Just got done reading part one of an article in the May issue of kitplanes on epoxy basics. One thing I got out of part one is the differences in strength when you do a post cure. There is also a Color Curve Chart on page 53. This chart shows the peak surface temperature in relationship to different colors. Paul ViskBelleville Il.618-406-4705 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
A further note to this ; the hardener gets thicker with age and harder to squeeze out. I found 30 seconds in the microwave brings it back to life. Let it cool before mixing or it will accelerate the cure time . Chris Gardiner Sent from my iPad > On May 15, 2017, at 8:24 AM, Mark Langford via KRnet > wrote: > > "And T-88 already comes in convenient squirt bottles with nozzles on the > top. If you're going to weigh each batch anyway (and you should), > there's no need for a pump anyway. This stuff is really thick, and one > of the two gets very thick with age (the darker of the two)" > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
Tip: Cut your mixing sticks (tongue depressors) square on one end to better stir epoxy in the cup. It helps get in to the bottom corners of the cups and the square end also helps squeezing epoxy / flox / micro in to some areas also. Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
Tnx Chris…. may have a new pump assembly for sale…. we’ll see…. jw > On May 14, 2017, at 21:29, Chris Gardiner via KRnet > wrote: > > Joe, > T88 is a little too thick to dispense with pumps from my experience. > If you can achieve consistent 50/50 mix by measure rather than weight , go > for it. > Chris Gardiner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
Subject: Re: KR> epoxy "Air bubbles in the pumps can sometimes bias the mix ratio unless you check every batch." I have been using West System for at least the last ten years and I have never experienced this. When you receive your epoxy and hardener, take it to your place of use and put it on the table or where ever you are going to dispense it from. Open the lid and remove the inner seal. Close the lid and put a few mixing sticks under the rear of the cans so that when you get to the bottom the pumps will still draw until you are just about empty. Let the cans sit overnight and come back the next day to insert the pumps. Don't move the cans just open them and insert the pumps. Pump each one in a separate container until you get a full pump without any air bubbles. That is it and you are now blessed with the easiest epoxy to use in my opinion. I don't check every single batch but approximately 90% of the time I will at least have a little left over in the bottom of my cup. I will lean the cup up against something and insert my mixing stick and come back the next day to remove the stick. Depending on how much I had left over it will either snap off the mixing stick or the residue will come out in one piece on the end of the stick. I have never had a problem with it setting up. If I had any complaints about this epoxy it would be the complete lack of styrene's! Stephen Teate Paradise, Texas I concur. I've never had any issues with the West pumps. I also found them to be really handy with AeroPoxy, although the ratio was a bit different and should be weighed the first few times until you get the ratio down right. Whenever I mix epoxy, I always leave the cup and mixing sticks, brushes, etc to check for cure quality. A number of years ago I was building drones for a few years, so went through many gallons of these resins with very few issues. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
"Air bubbles in the pumps can sometimes bias the mix ratio unless you check every batch." I have been using West System for at least the last ten years and I have never experienced this. When you receive your epoxy and hardener, take it to your place of use and put it on the table or where ever you are going to dispense it from. Open the lid and remove the inner seal. Close the lid and put a few mixing sticks under the rear of the cans so that when you get to the bottom the pumps will still draw until you are just about empty. Let the cans sit overnight and come back the next day to insert the pumps. Don't move the cans just open them and insert the pumps. Pump each one in a separate container until you get a full pump without any air bubbles. That is it and you are now blessed with the easiest epoxy to use in my opinion. I don't check every single batch but approximately 90% of the time I will at least have a little left over in the bottom of my cup. I will lean the cup up against something and insert my mixing stick and come back the next day to remove the stick. Depend ing on how much I had left over it will either snap off the mixing stick or the residue will come out in one piece on the end of the stick. I have never had a problem with it setting up. If I had any complaints about this epoxy it would be the complete lack of styrene's! Stephen Teate Paradise, Texas The information in this email is confidential and may be legally privileged. If you are not an intended recipient, you should delete this message. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorized, and any disclosure, copying, distribution or action taken or omitted in reliance on it is prohibited and may be unlawful. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
And T-88 already comes in convenient squirt bottles with nozzles on the top. If you're going to weigh each batch anyway (and you should), there's no need for a pump anyway. This stuff is really thick, and one of the two gets very thick with age (the darker of the two), so it can take a while to get it out of the bottle even with the squirt bottle. Another thing to know about T-88 is don't clamp it up tight and squeeze it all out of the glue joint. Apply to both surfaces, allow to sit a few minutes to soak deeper into the wood, and then clamp lightly. C-clamps are not required. Think rubber band or other fairly light clamping pressures. There are lots of examples of how people do this, especially for fuselage frame members and spar parts, located on the various builder's pages at www.krnet.org . Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
Air bubbles in the pumps can sometimes bias the mix ratio unless you check every batch. Chris Gardiner Thanks Chris...I will do that. Bob R ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
Joe, T88 is a little too thick to dispense with pumps from my experience. If you can achieve consistent 50/50 mix by measure rather than weight , go for it. Chris Gardiner Sent from my iPad > On May 14, 2017, at 9:52 PM, Joe. E. Wallace via KRnet > wrote: > > Chris Gardner > > I have a similar pump and have not used it as yet…. had intended to do > testing with T-88 until i can produce the proper mixture… I use 50-50 by > measure not weight… would like your thoughts on my approach.. tnx… jw > >> > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
Chris Gardner I have a similar pump and have not used it as yet…. had intended to do testing with T-88 until i can produce the proper mixture… I use 50-50 by measure not weight… would like your thoughts on my approach.. tnx… jw > On May 14, 2017, at 20:40, Chris Gardiner via KRnet > wrote: > > Bob, > The West System pumps are great for dispensing the resin and hardener but you > should mix the batches using an accurate weigh scale to get the ratio correct. > Air bubbles in the pumps can sometimes bias the mix ratio unless you check > every batch. > Chris Gardiner > > Sent from my iPad > >> On May 12, 2017, at 3:11 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet >> wrote: >> >> I picked up my West System pumps and some epoxy today. >> I will try some gluing some small pieces to get the feeling and a bit of >> experience with it before moving on to anything really critical. Have never >> really worked with it before. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> epoxy
Bob, The West System pumps are great for dispensing the resin and hardener but you should mix the batches using an accurate weigh scale to get the ratio correct. Air bubbles in the pumps can sometimes bias the mix ratio unless you check every batch. Chris Gardiner Sent from my iPad > On May 12, 2017, at 3:11 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet > wrote: > > I picked up my West System pumps and some epoxy today. > I will try some gluing some small pieces to get the feeling and a bit of > experience with it before moving on to anything really critical. Have never > really worked with it before. > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> epoxy
I picked up my West System pumps and some epoxy today. I will try some gluing some small pieces to get the feeling and a bit of experience with it before moving on to anything really critical. Have never really worked with it before. Also started pulling some of the new cables into place so I hope to finish those up this weekend. Bob R ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Epoxy Question
Geday Dan I used just on 21ltrs of resin and 7ltr of hardener (3:1) and about 4 ltr of T88. I probably built a bit on the heavy side by enclosing my wing foam on both sides, using finishing tissue over the ply exterior, and tripling layers where you step on the wing root to get in. I bought all mine in one go but I do agree with Mark, it would have been better to buy smaller quantities. Mine is a KR2 (not S) and so is smaller than yours. John Martindale 29 Jane Circuit Toormina NSW 2452 Australia ph:61 2 6658 4767 m:0403 432179 email:john_martindale at bigpond.com web site: http://john-martindale-kr2.zxq.net -Original Message- From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Dan Prichard Sent: Tuesday, 26 November 2013 2:58 PM To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KR> Epoxy Question How much epoxy (ie gallons) is typically used on a KR2S. I know there will a lot of swing in the numbers. Just looking for an average. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4158 / Virus Database: 3629/6864 - Release Date: 11/24/13
KR> Epoxy Question
"How much epoxy (ie gallons) is typically used on a KR2S " Dan, Allow me to skew the numbers you have seen so far. As I approach the end of the build it is one of the things I really try and not focus on too much. The number of boxes of tongue depressors, Dremel tools, and gallons of acetone I have been through is pretty high and I will explain the reasons for it. I bet I have two gallons of Safety Poxy in the wood airframe itself. I started with a stretched and widened KR-2 before the 2S became available so all fiberglass airframe parts became custom. I am probably into my fifth gallon of West system by now. Between the rear turtle deck, canopy frame, instrument panel, forward turtle deck, stub wings, wing root fairings, and tail feather fairings it adds up. All of these components are removable which means they are glassed inside and out. This was done with the pledge of never spending another day on my back under the instrument panel of a Mooney. I can remove the entire top of my airplane in just a few minutes. Obviously, I pay a weight penalty for this but the extent has yet to be determined. One thing that took up a lot of the resin was my wheel pants. I was stupid enough to make my own molds because I couldn't find any that I liked. Yes, now I have the experience of building my own molds and vacuuming my own components. If you or anyone else finds themselves in this boat I would suggest you keep looking! Four months out of the build that I will never get back. Long story short, I guess it depends on how you build it. Stephen Teate Paradise, Texas ** The information in this email is confidential and may be legally privileged. If you are not an intended recipient, you should delete this message. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorized, and any disclosure, copying, distribution or action taken or omitted in reliance on it is prohibited and may be unlawful. **
KR> Epoxy Question
Dan, I don't know where you are in your build, but I'm just about finished with all my structural wood components and will end up using close to a gallon of T-88 (half resin, half hardener). For fiberglass, I've only just completed my horizontal tail surfaces and have gone through about a quart of Aeropoxy resin (which mixes with hardener at 100 to 27). I suspect I'm liberal with the epoxy compared to many, which means some extra weight. -Seth On 11/25/2013 10:08 PM, Mark Langford wrote: > Dan Prichard wrote: > >> How much epoxy (ie gallons) is typically used on a KR2S. I know >> there will >> a lot of swing in the numbers. Just looking for an average. >
KR> Epoxy Question
Dan Prichard wrote: > How much epoxy (ie gallons) is typically used on a KR2S. I know there > will > a lot of swing in the numbers. Just looking for an average. I actually kept up with a lot of my layup weights, but it'd be a real pain to sit down and figure it all out, and then I'd still be wrong. Suffice it to say you'll need at least a gallon of layup resin for fiberglass, and a quart of T-88, so start with that. No need to buy several gallons, as it does go bad after a while... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website at http://www.N56ML.com
KR> Epoxy Question
How much epoxy (ie gallons) is typically used on a KR2S. I know there will a lot of swing in the numbers. Just looking for an average.
KR> Epoxy
Try a dark colored van in the sunshine, Virg On 10/31/2013 12:58 PM, brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com wrote: > I would like to hear what you think of the EZ after you give it a try. > > I don't really put mine outside to post cure, I do it just to speed up > the initial cure a bit. Not sure that it would get hot enough in the > sun for a real post cure. My point was that the strength of the EZ > without a post cure is better than the West and you could get an > additional 20% strength if you did post cure. If I was doing a set of > wings I might consider building a box from Home Depot insulating foam > sheets and making a post cure oven, but it really is not necessary. > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Epoxy
Warmth and sunshine are precious commodities here in Portland Oregon. I'm sure I'll do a post cure in some sort of heat box. Thanks to all for your comments. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 31, 2013, at 10:03 AM, "Virgil N.Salisbury" bellsouth.net> wrote: > > >Try a dark colored van in the sunshine, Virg > > >>On 10/31/2013 12:58 PM, brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com wrote: >> I would like to hear what you think of the EZ after you give it a try. >> >> I don't really put mine outside to post cure, I do it just to speed up >> the initial cure a bit. Not sure that it would get hot enough in the >> sun for a real post cure. My point was that the strength of the EZ >> without a post cure is better than the West and you could get an >> additional 20% strength if you did post cure. If I was doing a set of >> wings I might consider building a box from Home Depot insulating foam >> sheets and making a post cure oven, but it really is not necessary. >> >> ___ >> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. >> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change >> options > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options
KR> Epoxy
I would like to hear what you think of the EZ after you give it a try. I don't really put mine outside to post cure, I do it just to speed up the initial cure a bit. Not sure that it would get hot enough in the sun for a real post cure. My point was that the strength of the EZ without a post cure is better than the West and you could get an additional 20% strength if you did post cure. If I was doing a set of wings I might consider building a box from Home Depot insulating foam sheets and making a post cure oven, but it really is not necessary.
KR> Epoxy
KR> Epoxy
Brian et al I use West System on most of my projects exclusively, as they are marine related and the boat store is a 1 mile away. However, what you state about the West is true and now that the Canadian Aircraft Spruce is only a 1/2 hour away I will try some EZ and T-88. How do you get around 'post curing' when the application is large - and you don't have hot outside weather to post cure? Is it still strong enough without the post cure for KR work? What would be the better choice for large lay-ups (KR wings etc) that can't be 'post cured'? Gary - Canada -Original Message- From: brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 9:12 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy I have found and reprinted my epoxy comparison below. I think I did one with Aeropoxy also at some point, but could not find it. Surprising to me that nobody else has ever reported a comparison or commented on mine. I really would like to hear comments from others that have used different epoxies. I guess most people use what they use and don't see a need to try something different.
KR> Epoxy
You are correct. There isn't much difference between room temperature cured epoxy resins. The curing agents make a lot of difference in viscosity and pot life. The differences start to show up when you get into autoclaves and heated cures. There is difference between epoxy adhesives...mainly due to what the filler is...and there have been a lot of unsuccessful attempts to find a filler as good as asbestos. Basically, find a resin system you are comfortable using and stick with it. I am currently using a system from u.s. composites that I really like...it's their name brand but it is probably made by the same company that makes aeropoxy and/or west system. On Oct 30, 2013 7:36 AM, "Michael Lineback" wrote: > I honestly believe that structurally there is little difference whether it > is T-88, West system, MAS, System3 etc.West system has been used > for years in the Marine industry with complex layups of wood and plywood in > a pretty brutal environment. I would think that if one were to do the > analysis of structural loads on a sailboat with the Wind load, mast stay > loads, and wave pounding for days on end Well you get the idea. > West system was used by the Gudgeon Brothers in Michigan to make > propellers for a NASA wind tunnel project. So I would not be concerned > with using any of the previously mentioned to do structural work for a KR. > > > If you want to do a detailed analysis of West properties you can look up > the Gudgeon Brothers on boat construction. > > Regards, > > Michael > > > On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Mark Langford wrote: > > > Dan Prichard wrote: > > > > >T-88 appears to be the structural adhesive of choice but what about lay > up > > resins. System 3, west, aeropoxy or what? > > > > I second the Aeropoxy recommendation, but others are just as devoted to > > West, so apparently you can't go wrong with either one of those. Some > > folks > > like West for the pump system. I don't see how that could possibly be > > accurate for small batches (like an ounce or two), but to each his own. > I > > prefer to weigh my Aeropoxy proportions to the gram, which is easy and > > accurate with a $10 digital scale that weighs up to 11 pounds (will send > > link tonight). > > > > And yes, T-88 is the structural epoxy of choice. > > > > Mark Langford, Harvest, AL > > ML at N56ML.com > > www.N56ML.com > > > > > > > > ___ > > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change > > options > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Epoxy
I honestly believe that structurally there is little difference whether it is T-88, West system, MAS, System3 etc.West system has been used for years in the Marine industry with complex layups of wood and plywood in a pretty brutal environment. I would think that if one were to do the analysis of structural loads on a sailboat with the Wind load, mast stay loads, and wave pounding for days on end Well you get the idea. West system was used by the Gudgeon Brothers in Michigan to make propellers for a NASA wind tunnel project. So I would not be concerned with using any of the previously mentioned to do structural work for a KR. If you want to do a detailed analysis of West properties you can look up the Gudgeon Brothers on boat construction. Regards, Michael On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Mark Langford wrote: > Dan Prichard wrote: > > >T-88 appears to be the structural adhesive of choice but what about lay up > resins. System 3, west, aeropoxy or what? > > I second the Aeropoxy recommendation, but others are just as devoted to > West, so apparently you can't go wrong with either one of those. Some > folks > like West for the pump system. I don't see how that could possibly be > accurate for small batches (like an ounce or two), but to each his own. I > prefer to weigh my Aeropoxy proportions to the gram, which is easy and > accurate with a $10 digital scale that weighs up to 11 pounds (will send > link tonight). > > And yes, T-88 is the structural epoxy of choice. > > Mark Langford, Harvest, AL > ML at N56ML.com > www.N56ML.com > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options >
KR> Epoxy
I will swear by West Systems Epoxies simply because I have suffered no physical problems with it. I have had severe skin rashes with other systems. Otherwise I cannot say if one brand is superior to another. I have used West system layups to make fuel tanks, layup on/over urethanes and Styrofoam and woods. I have never had the opportunity to revisit one of my projects the was more than 8 years old so I cannot vouch for longevity. -Original Message- From: Dan Prichard Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 12:18 AM To: KR List Subject: KR> Epoxy T-88 appears to be the structural adhesive of choice but what about lay up resins. System 3, west, aeropoxy or what? I can use a little help from experience. Also I asked about Okome plywood usage. No responses. Sent from my iPhone ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Epoxy
Dan Prichard wrote: >T-88 appears to be the structural adhesive of choice but what about lay up resins. System 3, west, aeropoxy or what? I second the Aeropoxy recommendation, but others are just as devoted to West, so apparently you can't go wrong with either one of those. Some folks like West for the pump system. I don't see how that could possibly be accurate for small batches (like an ounce or two), but to each his own. I prefer to weigh my Aeropoxy proportions to the gram, which is easy and accurate with a $10 digital scale that weighs up to 11 pounds (will send link tonight). And yes, T-88 is the structural epoxy of choice. Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML at N56ML.com www.N56ML.com
KR> Epoxy
I have found and reprinted my epoxy comparison below. I think I did one with Aeropoxy also at some point, but could not find it. Surprising to me that nobody else has ever reported a comparison or commented on mine. I really would like to hear comments from others that have used different epoxies. I guess most people use what they use and don't see a need to try something different. from 5/31/08 post We have had a lot of discussions on this list in the past about which epoxy is best. 99% of the posts are usually from people that like the epoxy that they are using and they have not tried anything else. I had always used EZ Poxy in the past and was in that same boat. For the past few days I have been using West System epoxy and I can finally make a comparison between the two. They are both very low odor and pleasant to work with. Viscosity is pretty similar, they both seem to wet out the cloth about the same, and they both get real thin and wet out cloth better when heated with a heat gun. Mixing with micro or flox and sanding are about the same. They can both be used with different hardeners for faster or slower drying. I have used the EZ in cold and hot weather with great results, but have only used the West in fairly warm weather. EZ Poxy is $112 for a 1.5 gallon kit. West is about 23% more expensive at $122 for a 1.26 gallon kit. Looking at the specifications at: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/ezpoxy.php http://westsystem.com/ under the physical properties tab EZ Poxy is about 4% lighter and has about 4% higher tensile strength not post cured. West does not show a tensile strength when post cured. I don't know if that means that they just don't publish it or if it does not get any stronger with post curing. From searching the net I am fairly certain that West is not able to be post cured. The EZ Poxy is nearly 20% stronger if post cured. EZ Poxy will handle heat better when not post cured and much better when post cured. As far as working with them, I like the EZ Poxy better for several reasons. The mix ratio for the EZ Poxy is about one part resin to a half part hardener. West is five parts resin to one part hardener. Weather mixing by volume or weight you can get more precision on your hardener ratio when there is more hardener used, especially on very small batches like I mix a lot of. West has the pumps, but I do it on a scale because you have much better control of how much you mix when you don't need to use full pumps and can do it by the gram. I often hit my layups with a heat gun to make the resin flow better and sometimes to dry them faster. I never had to worry about getting the EZ Poxy too hot, but the West could be overheated pretty easily. I have also a lot of times with the EZ fairly hard, but still a little tacky been able to heat an area some to get it a little soft, bend it as needed, and held it there a few minutes till it cooled and stayed in the new position. With the West it would not bend and would turn white and separate the resin from the fibers. When trimming cured layups I found that the West would tend to have the glass ends fray and come out of the matrix much easier than with the EZ, especially if you cut rapidly with a cutting wheel and got it hot. Some areas even delaminated a little when doing rough cuts and cutting fast. EZ poxy is a brown color and West is clear. A lot of times when I finish a layup with the EZ Poxy I will put it out in the sun and it will heat up and dry faster. I also put dried parts in the sun to post cure some. West would heat up with a carbon layup, but it never gets warm with just white fiberglass. So to sum it up, West is good, but I can't find anything about it that I like better than the EZ Poxy and there are a lot of things about the EZ that I like better. To be fair I guess there are two things about the West that are better, being clear if you wanted to do an unfinished carbon layup instrument panel it would be best, and it is available at local boating stores if you run out on a Saturday. Other's comments are certainly welcome. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com Original Message ---- Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy From: List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Wed, October 30, 2013 6:03 am To: "KRnet" I recommend EZPoxy although most people that have not tried it use West or Aeropoxy. If you check my name and epoxy in the archives you will find a comparison that I did a few years ago. change options
KR> Epoxy
I recommend EZPoxy although most people that have not tried it use West or Aeropoxy. If you check my name and epoxy in the archives you will find a comparison that I did a few years ago. Original Message Subject: KR> Epoxy From: Dan Prichard List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Tue, October 29, 2013 9:18 pm To: KR List T-88 appears to be the structural adhesive of choice but what about lay up resins. System 3, west, aeropoxy or what? I can use a little help from experience. Also I asked about Okome plywood usage. No responses. Sent from my iPhone ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Epoxy
Dan, I used Aeropoxy with both fiberglass and carbon fiber layups and it wets out easily now matter which type of cloth I was using. There's very little odor and using acetone to clean brushes it stops the cure in the brushes right away so I can use the brushes again. I would highly recommend the Aeropoxy. Others may have different results using other systems. Neal Hornung (lt1corvette at earthlink.net) -Original Message- >From: Dan Prichard >Sent: Oct 30, 2013 12:18 AM >To: KR List >Subject: KR> Epoxy > >T-88 appears to be the structural adhesive of choice but what about lay up >resins. System 3, west, aeropoxy or what? I can use a little help from >experience. Also I asked about Okome plywood usage. No responses. > >Sent from my iPhone >___ >Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. >To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change >options
KR> Epoxy
T-88 appears to be the structural adhesive of choice but what about lay up resins. System 3, west, aeropoxy or what? I can use a little help from experience. Also I asked about Okome plywood usage. No responses. Sent from my iPhone
KR> Epoxy
Has anyone used aero marine epoxy on their KR? Sent from my iPhone
KR> epoxy primer
Use unwaxed paper cups, Virg On 3/26/2011 5:06 PM, phillip matheson wrote: > This stuff will dissolve plastic, > --- > > I think you will find almost any paint that is not water based, would > dissolve those cheap plastic cups. Just use better quality containers > > > > Phil Matheson > SAAA Ch 37 > http://www.philskr2.50megs.com/ > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
KR> epoxy primer
This stuff will dissolve plastic, --- I think you will find almost any paint that is not water based, would dissolve those cheap plastic cups. Just use better quality containers Phil Matheson SAAA Ch 37 http://www.philskr2.50megs.com/
KR> epoxy primer
Hey Guys, Just a quick word about high fill epoxy primer. This stuff will dissolve plastic, or at least the thin plastic cups that I used to scoop each part out of the gallon can. After stirring part A and B separately I used throw away plastic cups from the Dollar General to dip into the gallon cans (50/50 mix) and then poured both into one mixing container. After painting one side of the fuselage I went back to clean up only to find the cups had totally dissolved. Change of plans for the other side. Mike Sylvester kr2s builder Birmingham,AL. Cell no.205-966-3854
KR> Epoxy Thinning
Disregard Guys. Meant to go direct to Phil. I hit reply to on wrong e-mail. Thanks Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI E-mail: flyk...@charter.net Web: www.flykr2s.com - Original Message - From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 8:45 AM Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy Thinning Phil, I just tried it again and it is working for me. Try again and let me know. http://www.frappr.com/krbuildersandpilots Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI E-mail: flyk...@charter.net Web: www.flykr2s.com - Original Message - From: "Dana Overall" To: Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 6:02 AM Subject: RE: KR> Epoxy Thinning Thanks Sid and Phil, I will try both thinning methods today and try them out on some scrap. Time to get back to building:-) Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY i39 http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive > From: smw...@md.metrocast.net > To: kr...@mylist.net > Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 12:26:45 -0500 > Subject: KR> Epoxy Thinning > > >Now a building question. I need to encapsulate the ash in epoxy, what > is > the right mixture for thinning epoxy so I can brush it on? As you can > tell, > it's been a while since I worked with wood:-) > > Dana Overall > > > Dana, > What works for me is to thin the epoxy with acetone. Mix the A & B parts > according to manufactures directions. Add a little acetone at a time and > stir it in gently so as not to get to much air mixed in. A varnish > consistancy is what you are looking for. > > > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Epoxy Thinning
Phil, I just tried it again and it is working for me. Try again and let me know. http://www.frappr.com/krbuildersandpilots Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI E-mail: flyk...@charter.net Web: www.flykr2s.com - Original Message - From: "Dana Overall" To: Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 6:02 AM Subject: RE: KR> Epoxy Thinning Thanks Sid and Phil, I will try both thinning methods today and try them out on some scrap. Time to get back to building:-) Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY i39 http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive > From: smw...@md.metrocast.net > To: kr...@mylist.net > Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 12:26:45 -0500 > Subject: KR> Epoxy Thinning > > >Now a building question. I need to encapsulate the ash in epoxy, what > is > the right mixture for thinning epoxy so I can brush it on? As you can > tell, > it's been a while since I worked with wood:-) > > Dana Overall > > > Dana, > What works for me is to thin the epoxy with acetone. Mix the A & B parts > according to manufactures directions. Add a little acetone at a time and > stir it in gently so as not to get to much air mixed in. A varnish > consistancy is what you are looking for. > > > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Epoxy Thinning
Thanks Sid and Phil, I will try both thinning methods today and try them out on some scrap. Time to get back to building:-) Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY i39 http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive > From: smw...@md.metrocast.net > To: kr...@mylist.net > Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 12:26:45 -0500 > Subject: KR> Epoxy Thinning > > >Now a building question. I need to encapsulate the ash in epoxy, what is > the right mixture for thinning epoxy so I can brush it on? As you can tell, > it's been a while since I worked with wood:-) > > Dana Overall > > > Dana, > What works for me is to thin the epoxy with acetone. Mix the A & B parts > according to manufactures directions. Add a little acetone at a time and > stir it in gently so as not to get to much air mixed in. A varnish > consistancy is what you are looking for. > > > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/
KR> Epoxy Thinning
>Now a building question. I need to encapsulate the ash in epoxy, what is the right mixture for thinning epoxy so I can brush it on? As you can tell, it's been a while since I worked with wood:-) Dana Overall - Dana I use the West System 5:1 epoxy, no need to thin it. But I do use Mentholated Spirits, instead of Acetone ( you guys I think call it rubbing Alcohol? or denatured alcohol )as per Sid's answer. Mentholated Spirits ( 95% Ethanol) will also remove the epoxy off you hands or paint with out the health issues and damage to paint work http://adunk.ozehosting.com/metho.html Phil Matheson SAAA Ch. 20 http://www.saaa20.org/ VH-PKR Australia EMAIL: phillipmathe...@bigpond.com KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com --- Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Epoxy Thinning
>Now a building question. I need to encapsulate the ash in epoxy, what is the right mixture for thinning epoxy so I can brush it on? As you can tell, it's been a while since I worked with wood:-) Dana Overall Dana, What works for me is to thin the epoxy with acetone. Mix the A & B parts according to manufactures directions. Add a little acetone at a time and stir it in gently so as not to get to much air mixed in. A varnish consistancy is what you are looking for. When you paint it on, the acetone will penetrate the wood fibers and carry the epoxy with it. As the epoxy cures, the acetone will evaporate. Do use rubber gloves and eye protection. Make sure you have lots of ventilation. Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA smw...@md.metrocast.net
KR> epoxy / resin
thanks a lot for your help Salu2 Eduardo Navarrete Quito-Ecuador +593-9-8243079 (cell) +593-2-2344568 (home) +593-2-2906898 (office) "ANDEAN KR2" www.eduardonavarrete.com --- El vie 19-dic-08, Ed Janssen escribió: > De: Ed Janssen > Asunto: Re: KR> epoxy / resin > A: eduna...@yahoo.com > Fecha: viernes, 19 diciembre, 2008, 2:23 pm > The company that makes T-88 says the properties remain the > same after heating. > > Ed > > - Original Message - From: "Eduardo > Navarrete" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 8:04 AM > Subject: Re: KR> epoxy / resin > > > thanks folks for the answers. and the properties as a > bond agent will be the same or will change? > > Salu2 > > Eduardo Navarrete > Quito-Ecuador > +593-9-8243079 (cell) > +593-2-2344568 (home) > +593-2-2906898 (office) > "ANDEAN KR2" > www.eduardonavarrete.com > > > > > > ¡Felices Fiestas! Enviale una tarjeta electronica > gratis a tu familia y amigos y deseales felices fiestas. > http://yahoomorado.com/tarjetas/ > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html ¡Todo sobre Amor y Sexo! La guía completa para tu vida en Mujer de Hoy. http://mujerdehoy.telemundo.yahoo.com/
KR> epoxy / resin
thanks folks for the answers. and the properties as a bond agent will be the same or will change? Salu2 Eduardo Navarrete Quito-Ecuador +593-9-8243079 (cell) +593-2-2344568 (home) +593-2-2906898 (office) "ANDEAN KR2" www.eduardonavarrete.com ¡Felices Fiestas! Enviale una tarjeta electronica gratis a tu familia y amigos y deseales felices fiestas. http://yahoomorado.com/tarjetas/
KR> epoxy / resin
Hey Ron, Just out of interest, have you weighed a sample of the composite fuselage skin and compared it with a similar size piece of ply. Do you expect to see a weight saving or just a stronger more rigid structure? Paul Smith Brisbane, AUSTRALIA pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/
KR> epoxy / resin
Ron Smith KR2SSXL Buckeye Arizona mercedesm...@yahoo.com http://ronsmith.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php Also, T88 sets up faster when you heat it. Don't dilly dally. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> epoxy / resin
Eduardo, Go easy using a microwave - low heat - whatever. Mine started to melt the plastic container within 15 sec. Since then, I just bring T-88 indoors for a few hours or warm up in a pan of warm water. Ed Janssen - Original Message - From: "Mark Jones" Eduardo wrote: i noticed that the resin (t88) got hard... what do you suggest me to do? Hi Eduardo, Put it in the microwave for 15 seconds. Mark Jones (N886MJ)
KR> epoxy / resin
Be careful with the resin that has begun to harden. If it is just that it is cold and needs to come back to room temp, then no problem. If it has actually begun to harden and requires elevated temp to flow, then the cross linking within the resin has begun. It can be heated and used. I have done so on non-critical applications; however, the final bond strength will be reduced. On aircraft structure, that could spoil your whole day. Be careful. --- On Thu, 12/18/08, Mark Jones wrote: From: Mark Jones Subject: Re: KR> epoxy / resin To: eduna...@yahoo.com, "KRnet" List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Thursday, December 18, 2008, 3:53 PM Eduardo wrote: i noticed that the resin (t88) got hard... what do you suggest me to do? Hi Eduardo, Put it in the microwave for 15 seconds. Longer if needed. You should be good to go. You could also use hot water but that will take longer. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI Web page: www.flykr2s.com e-mail: flyk...@charter.net ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> epoxy / resin
My T88 started to go hard during the winter so I just left the container out in the sun for a few hours until it thinned out again. You can also immerse the container in hot water for a while. Cheers. -- Darren Crompton AUSTRALIA My web site: www.kr-2s.com
KR> epoxy / resin
Eduardo wrote: i noticed that the resin (t88) got hard... what do you suggest me to do? Hi Eduardo, Put it in the microwave for 15 seconds. Longer if needed. You should be good to go. You could also use hot water but that will take longer. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI Web page: www.flykr2s.com e-mail: flyk...@charter.net
KR> epoxy / resin
hi netters i noticed that the resin (t88) got hard... what do you suggest me to do? Salu2 Eduardo Navarrete Quito-Ecuador +593-9-8243079 (cell) +593-2-2344568 (home) +593-2-2906898 (office) "ANDEAN KR2" www.eduardonavarrete.com ¡Todo sobre Amor y Sexo! La guía completa para tu vida en Mujer de Hoy. http://mujerdehoy.telemundo.yahoo.com/
KR> Epoxy and aluminum
At 06:39 PM 11/2/2008, you wrote: > > Does anyone have experience with using epoxy to attach wood and aluminum > > parts together ?. When I bonded aluminum or stainless steel strips to wood or fiberglass, as around the inside of inspection panel openings for securing the panel back in place, I saturated the metal with 1/8 inch holes and epoxy / floxed them in place making sure the epoxy / flox mixture squeezed out of the holes a bit. This acted almost like rivets. I've only had one strip come loose and I think that was because of improper prep on the glass I was attaching it to. Larry Flesner
KR> Epoxy and aluminum
Hey Mark do you have any props in the bank?
KR> Epoxy and aluminum
Just to add my 2 cents on the matter, many composite techniques guides suggest this type of boding with a mixture of flocked cotton in the epoxy. I speak from experience this combo will hold almost anything. Michael J. Simpson mplane...@aol.com c:919-423-6190 -Original Message- From: Darren Crompton To: bobbycrea...@yahoo.com; KRnet Sent: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 7:39 pm Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy and aluminum > > Does anyone have experience with using epoxy to attach wood and aluminum > parts together ?. I have tested and used T88 to bond aluminum to wood. The only preparation I give the aluminum is to roughen up the surface with sand paper and then clean with acetone to remove the dust. Cheers. -- Darren Crompton AUSTRALIA My web site: www.kr-2s.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Epoxy and aluminum
> > Does anyone have experience with using epoxy to attach wood and aluminum > parts together ?. I have tested and used T88 to bond aluminum to wood. The only preparation I give the aluminum is to roughen up the surface with sand paper and then clean with acetone to remove the dust. I used it for my rudder cable guides which can be seen in the last couple of photos here http://kr-2s.com/rudder.html and the fourth photo down here http://kr-2s.com/system.html I am happy to use it in this situation as the amount of pressure applied to the bond is relatively minimal. I would never use it as a primary agent for securing for example, bell cranks or in the extreme case, landing gear brackets. I did use T88 to bond the aluminum piano hinge to the turtle deck and upper longeron but I also used evenly spaced wood screws, as a failure here would most likely be catastrophic. Cheers. -- Darren Crompton AUSTRALIA My web site: www.kr-2s.com
KR> Epoxy and aluminum
Solly Melyon wrote: > There is a certain chemical that you apply with a brush on the aluminum to > create a bonding surface to the glass or wood. I do not have the info on > it. ML could know. There are chemical conversion coatings such as DuPont 225S that clean and prepare surfaces for paint or bonding. It contains phosphoric acid, if that's helpful. I epoxy aluminum to wood by abrading the aluminum with coarse sandpaper, cleaning with lacquer thinner, and then glue using T-88, which is one of the best epoxies for bonding wood. I've never seen it fail in the places I've used it in my plane. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL website: www.n5...@hiwaay.net email: N56ML at hiwaay.net
KR> Epoxy and aluminum
Bobby, Try Etched aluminum by Fibercoat. ACS may have it. There is a certain chemical that you apply with a brush on the aluminum to create a bonding surface to the glass or wood. I do not have the info on it. ML could know. If none of the above. Then simply roughen up the alum surface with a coarse sand paper and use structural adhesive such as Hysol or Aeropoxy (much less expensive). Hope this helped Solly Melyon-Mgr AeroMax Aviation, LLC www.aeromaxaviation.com 229.241.1175 --- On Sun, 11/2/08, bobby burington wrote: From: bobby burington Subject: KR> Epoxy and aluminum To: "KRnet" List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Sunday, November 2, 2008, 7:56 AM Hello all, Does anyone have experience with using epoxy to attach wood and aluminum parts together ?. or is there a better glue to bond wood and aluminum ?. or a special treatment for the aluminum ? Thanks Bobby Burington California KR Builder ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Epoxy and aluminum
Hello all, Does anyone have experience with using epoxy to attach wood and aluminum parts together ?. or is there a better glue to bond wood and aluminum ?. or a special treatment for the aluminum ? Thanks Bobby Burington California KR Builder
KR> epoxy silicone
I am looking for a high temperature fuel and oil resistant silicone that does not need to be exposed to air to dry. Most normal silicones out of a tube have a solvent in them that smells like vinegar that disolves out when they dry. The problem is that in some applications where you need a deep bed of silicone that they skin over on the outside and the inside never dries or takes forever. I have been told by someone that that there is an epoxy silicone (I assume it is a 2 part mixture, but I am not sure) with a part number of CR-2034-B-1/2 that is used on engine applications. I have searched everywhere and can not find it. I don't know who makes it. If anyone knows who makes it please let me know. I am aware of the 2 part silicone mixes that are used for making molds and I have some of them already. I don't know if they are heat, solvent, or oil resistant though. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com
KR> epoxy silicone
I think you want 2 part urethane http://oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop28.htm -dave Brian Kraut wrote: > I am looking for a high temperature fuel and oil resistant silicone that > does not need to be exposed to air to dry. Most normal silicones out of a > tube have a solvent in them that smells like vinegar that disolves out when > they dry. The problem is that in some applications where you need a deep > bed of silicone that they skin over on the outside and the inside never > dries or takes forever. > > I have been told by someone that that there is an epoxy silicone (I assume > it is a 2 part mixture, but I am not sure) with a part number of > CR-2034-B-1/2 that is used on engine applications. I have searched > everywhere and can not find it. I don't know who makes it. If anyone knows > who makes it please let me know. > > I am aware of the 2 part silicone mixes that are used for making molds and I > have some of them already. I don't know if they are heat, solvent, or oil > resistant though. > > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to > http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
KR> epoxy silicone
OOPS!! Wrong URL - sorry... http://www.star-technology.com/table1.html Look at UR5335 -dave Brian Kraut wrote: > I am looking for a high temperature fuel and oil resistant silicone that > does not need to be exposed to air to dry. Most normal silicones out of a > tube have a solvent in them that smells like vinegar that disolves out when > they dry. The problem is that in some applications where you need a deep > bed of silicone that they skin over on the outside and the inside never > dries or takes forever. > > I have been told by someone that that there is an epoxy silicone (I assume > it is a 2 part mixture, but I am not sure) with a part number of > CR-2034-B-1/2 that is used on engine applications. I have searched > everywhere and can not find it. I don't know who makes it. If anyone knows > who makes it please let me know. > > I am aware of the 2 part silicone mixes that are used for making molds and I > have some of them already. I don't know if they are heat, solvent, or oil > resistant though. > > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to > http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
KR> epoxy silicone
Brian We use B1/2 on our jets at work.I don't know how much you need,but I can find out were they order it fom and get you a part number.It is 2 part and is gray in color.Call me Bob Glidden Eminence,Indiana KR2S (Building) Corvair 110 glid...@ccrtc.com
KR> epoxy silicone
Google "RTV" or "RTV Silicone" you will find many sources for the material that functions the way you want. You will find links to epoxy based materials as well. -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Brian Kraut Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 2:31 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> epoxy silicone I am looking for a high temperature fuel and oil resistant silicone that does not need to be exposed to air to dry. Most normal silicones out of a tube have a solvent in them that smells like vinegar that disolves out when they dry. The problem is that in some applications where you need a deep bed of silicone that they skin over on the outside and the inside never dries or takes forever. I have been told by someone that that there is an epoxy silicone (I assume it is a 2 part mixture, but I am not sure) with a part number of CR-2034-B-1/2 that is used on engine applications. I have searched everywhere and can not find it. I don't know who makes it. If anyone knows who makes it please let me know. I am aware of the 2 part silicone mixes that are used for making molds and I have some of them already. I don't know if they are heat, solvent, or oil resistant though. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Epoxy
Which type of epoxy are you all using for building your fuel tanks? With the added note on the West system Epoxy that it's not compatible with fuel containing Alcohol . As well as the lack of any such statement on any other Resin or epoxy I am undecided as to how to go about building my tanks. I have no desire to use any type of fuel containing Alcohol however, if it was put into my tank by some misfortune I dont want it attacking my planes fuel cell. I called Wicks and spoke to them about it and they refered me to a product called Polysulfide sealer , Any thought's on this potential problem and it's cure will be great!!! Thanks to all Eric Von Kelsheimer
KR> epoxy /hardener ratio.
Hi Netters A question was asked about the results that occur when the ratio of epoxy /hardener are off spec. Don Reid said it all. To make this more clear to you, do a little experiment. Mix up a small batch of epoxy using the correct ratios. Mix up several other batches but increase the amount of hardener on each batch by 10%. Do this for 5 batches. Note their curing times. Be sure to put a wooden stick into each as they harden. Test the results by bending bashing etc to destruction for each case. Repeat the same experiment for a change in the amount of epoxy for a constant amount of hardener. The results are going to be a caution to use the most correct ratio epoxy/hardener ratio possible as specified by the manufacturer. Further when you mix the batch, drain it into another container , scrape the walls of the original mixing container well. Mix again in the second container before apply in the epoxy on your plane. It took a while before I found that I had not always properly mixed all the epoxy off the side of the can, so that toward the end of the batch , if I scraped the sides , I might not be getting the correct epoxy/hardener ratio mix. The worst case scenario occurred when I was making a top for my trailer. The foam was 1/2" thick. The outside was done and epoxyed in place. The inside was then epoxied and left to cure over night. Resultnothing. I had forgotten to add the hardener. Procedure-- The ratio was 5 epoxy to 1 hardener. I rolled on with a roller , the hardener and in places painted on the hardener with a brush. The next day it was all hard. Quality ???. But it did last 20 years. But then it was only a trailer top. Regards Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
KR> Epoxy T88
Que tal Quique, si es un alivio que alguien hable espanol tambien para poser entender todo detalle, yo estoy construyendo un kr-2, ya tengo hecho los largueros principales y de las alas, la proxima semana empiezo con el fuselaje, y tu en que parte ya estas?? proximamente voy a ponerme mi pagina web para subir las fotos de lo que tengo hecho. --- Quique Alvarez escribió: > Hola Eduardo, > > Soy un piloto de España. > > ¿Estas montando un Kr2-s??, > > Se agradecer encontrar por aqui a pilotos que hablen > español > > Un saludo > > Enrique > > > > > 2006/1/28, Eduardo Navarrete <>: > > > > Hi, i want to buy a t-88 epoxy in systemthree, > what > > dou you think about this product? did you hear > > something about systemthree? > > > > Salu2 > > > > Eduardo Navarrete > > Quito-Ecuador > > +593-9-8243079 (cell) > > +593-2-2344568 (home) > > +593-2-2906898 (office) > > "ANDEAN KR2" > > > > __ > > Correo Yahoo! > > Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y > antispam ¡gratis! > > Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/ > > > > ___ > > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > krnet-le...@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > Salu2 Eduardo Navarrete Quito-Ecuador +593-9-8243079 (cell) +593-2-2344568 (home) +593-2-2906898 (office) "ANDEAN KR2" __ Correo Yahoo! Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis! Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/
KR> Epoxy T88
thanks james for your answer, what temperature dou you recomend me? here in ecuador the temperature is between 13-19C, --- james escribió: > > Hi Eduardo, I used t-88 on my plane.I had no > problems using it. I also did a number of test > pieces with it, and the WOOD always failed ,leaving > the glue joint intact. It is important that you use > it in the recommended temperature range. Jim > -- Original Message > -- > From: Eduardo Navarrete > Reply-To: KRnet > Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 07:37:09 -0600 (CST) > > >Hi, i want to buy a t-88 epoxy in systemthree, what > >dou you think about this product? did you hear > >something about systemthree? > > > >Salu2 > > > >Eduardo Navarrete > >Quito-Ecuador > >+593-9-8243079 (cell) > >+593-2-2344568 (home) > >+593-2-2906898 (office) > >"ANDEAN KR2" > > > >__ > >Correo Yahoo! > >Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y > antispam ¡gratis! > >Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/ > > > >___ > >Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > krnet-le...@mylist.net > >please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > > > > > Sent via the WebMail system at totalspeed.net > > > > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html > Salu2 Eduardo Navarrete Quito-Ecuador +593-9-8243079 (cell) +593-2-2344568 (home) +593-2-2906898 (office) "ANDEAN KR2" __ Correo Yahoo! Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis! Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/
KR> Epoxy T88
>what temperature dou you >recomend me? here in ecuador the temperature is >between 13-19C, Optimum temperature for epoxy application is 77 degree F. Air temperature can be lower if the epoxy is heated. Higher temperatures will reduce the working time. Lower temperatures will increase it. There is a temperature (each epoxy is different) below which the epoxy will not cure. Few epoxies will cure if the air + resin are at 13C. Heating the resin helps. Keeping a heat lamp on the part being joined will solve any problems. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 lar...@socal.rr.com
KR> Epoxy T88
Hi, i want to buy a t-88 epoxy in systemthree, what dou you think about this product? did you hear something about systemthree? Salu2 Eduardo Navarrete Quito-Ecuador +593-9-8243079 (cell) +593-2-2344568 (home) +593-2-2906898 (office) "ANDEAN KR2" __ Correo Yahoo! Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis! Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/
KR> Epoxy T88
Hi Eduardo, I used t-88 on my plane.I had no problems using it. I also did a number of test pieces with it, and the WOOD always failed ,leaving the glue joint intact. It is important that you use it in the recommended temperature range. Jim -- Original Message -- From: Eduardo Navarrete Reply-To: KRnet List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 07:37:09 -0600 (CST) >Hi, i want to buy a t-88 epoxy in systemthree, what >dou you think about this product? did you hear >something about systemthree? > >Salu2 > >Eduardo Navarrete >Quito-Ecuador >+593-9-8243079 (cell) >+593-2-2344568 (home) >+593-2-2906898 (office) >"ANDEAN KR2" > >__ >Correo Yahoo! >Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis! >Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/ > >___ >Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > Sent via the WebMail system at totalspeed.net
KR> Epoxy
Can anyone tell me what is the best type of epoxy to stick Polystyrene foam to wood? I have tried builders gapfilling foam from an aerosol. It sticks wonderfully but because of its expanding properties it tends to distort structures. Peter
KR> Epoxy
At 02:56 PM 8/15/05 +0100, you wrote: >Can anyone tell me what is the best type of epoxy to stick Polystyrene foam to wood? >Peter Have you tried "hot glue" ? The foam really only needs to be held in place to complete the shaping and wet layup process at which point it is bonded to the glass. Larry Flesner
KR> Epoxy
Larry Do you mean the stuff out of a gun? Peter - Original Message - From: "larry flesner" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 3:18 PM Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy > At 02:56 PM 8/15/05 +0100, you wrote: >>Can anyone tell me what is the best type of epoxy to stick Polystyrene > foam to wood? >>Peter > > > Have you tried "hot glue" ? The foam really only needs to be > held in place to complete the shaping and wet layup process at > which point it is bonded to the glass. > > Larry Flesner > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > --- > >
KR> Epoxy
At 03:43 PM 8/15/05 +0100, you wrote: >Larry >Do you mean the stuff out of a gun? >Peter +++ That is correct. Same as Dan H. mentioned in his post. Just make sure to keep it below any sanding levels. Sandpaper and hot glue don't mix well. Any glue that has gotten above or into any area to be sanded can be cut out with a single edge razor blade and that void filled with micro-slurry. Larry Flesner
KR> Epoxy
What ever epoxy you are using to glass your parts will work. I use west system epoxy. Mix up a bit in a cup, brush on a clear coat on the wood, then mix the remaining epoxy left in the cup with micro spheres, brush that onto the foam and join the parts. I have had little luck with hot melt glue. It doesn't sand well, it sets up to fast, it doesnt protect the wood at the glue joint and it will not penetrate the foam. The epoxy clear coat wets the wood well and acts as a varnish against moisture. Pat - Original Message - From: "Peter Drake" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 9:56 AM Subject: KR> Epoxy > Can anyone tell me what is the best type of epoxy to stick Polystyrene > foam to wood? > I have tried builders gapfilling foam from an aerosol. It sticks > wonderfully but because of its expanding properties it tends to distort > structures. > > Peter > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Epoxy
I used "Elmer's" ultimate glue. It's polyurethane. It's water activated and easy to work with. Like all products in this category it does have some draw backs though as the bonding seam is a little hard to sand as compared to sanding the bonded foam. Overall though I have been very pleased with the results. The best thing about it is that you can find it at any good lumber and building supply store for about $13.00 to $14.00 dollars U.S.(16 fl oz.) I found it here in Louisiana at "Home Depot".
KR> Epoxy
I've use it on all my none epoxy bonding, Wood also. Use epoxy where required though. I fills spaces between foam. It actually reinforces the joint compression wise. Use it with microballoons to make it more sandable. Ron - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 12:45 PM Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy >I used "Elmer's" ultimate glue. It's polyurethane. It's water activated and > easy to work with. Like all products in this category it does have some > draw > backs though as the bonding seam is a little hard to sand as compared to > sanding the bonded foam. Overall though I have been very pleased with the > results. > The best thing about it is that you can find it at any good lumber and > building supply store for about $13.00 to $14.00 dollars U.S.(16 fl oz.) > I found > it here in Louisiana at "Home Depot". > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > >
KR> Epoxy
I tried hot glue last night. AAARGH! I'm using Blue Styrofoam - it melts it! I like the sound of Elmers polyurethane glue only we dont get Elmers here in the UK. So I'm looking for an equivalent available here. Any ideas? Peter - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 6:45 PM Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy >I used "Elmer's" ultimate glue. It's polyurethane. It's water activated and > easy to work with. Like all products in this category it does have some > draw > backs though as the bonding seam is a little hard to sand as compared to > sanding the bonded foam. Overall though I have been very pleased with the > results. > The best thing about it is that you can find it at any good lumber and > building supply store for about $13.00 to $14.00 dollars U.S.(16 fl oz.) > I found > it here in Louisiana at "Home Depot". > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > --- > >
KR> Epoxy
Peter, Try the 5 minute epoxy available at your hardware store. It comes in a double suringe and easy to mix. 5 minutes after setting the foam in you are ready to work on the piece. Good luck > > From: "Peter Drake" > Date: 2005/08/16 Tue AM 05:32:30 EDT > To: "KRnet" > Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy > > I tried hot glue last night. AAARGH! I'm using Blue Styrofoam - it melts > it! Steven Phillabaum KR2S; 5048; corvair; Auburn, Alabama
KR> Epoxy
Peter, I've contacted Elmer's and was only able to leave a message on their phone answering machine. They have a terrible web site in regards to their information about distribution. I think as big a product that Elmer's has been here it surely should have an outlet there. If I get a response from them I will pass it on to you. This glue has great gapping qualities and holding power for foam to foam and foam to wood or even foam and wood to metals. It is however considered non structural.
KR> Epoxy
Gorilla is another manufacture of this product. Any product that says it's Urethane. Ron - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 8:28 AM Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy > Peter, I've contacted Elmer's and was only able to leave a message on > their > phone answering machine. They have a terrible web site in regards to their > information about distribution. I think as big a product that Elmer's has > been > here it surely should have an outlet there. If I get a response from them > I > will pass it on to you. This glue has great gapping qualities and holding > power > for foam to foam and foam to wood or even foam and wood to metals. It is > however considered non structural. > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > >
KR> Epoxy
Ron and All Thank you all for your kind suggestions. It has been very helpful. I have found a source of Gorilla Polyurethane glue and have ordered some! Thanks All Peter - Original Message - From: "Ron Eason" To: "KRnet" Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 2:58 PM Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy > Gorilla is another manufacture of this product. Any product that says it's > Urethane. > Ron > - Original Message - > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 8:28 AM > Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy > > >> Peter, I've contacted Elmer's and was only able to leave a message on >> their >> phone answering machine. They have a terrible web site in regards to >> their >> information about distribution. I think as big a product that Elmer's has >> been >> here it surely should have an outlet there. If I get a response from them >> I >> will pass it on to you. This glue has great gapping qualities and >> holding >> power >> for foam to foam and foam to wood or even foam and wood to metals. It is >> however considered non structural. >> ___ >> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >> >> > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > --- > >
KR> epoxy pumps.
Hi Netters. For those that measure their epoxy by volume, I suggest instead of pumps use syringes. Go to the local drug store and buy a 50 ml syringe. They are cheep. Even though you may be using 1 volume to 1 volume of epoxy to hardener get different sized syringes. The reason is that sooner or later you will stick the epoxy syringe into the hardener by mistake. If the epoxy is a thick type, cut off the needle fitting and run a 3/16" drill into the end of the syringe. This will make it easy to draw up the thick epoxy. Next use a fine tipped black permanent marker to go over the volume markings on the side scale of the syringe. Otherwise the epoxy will gradually dissolve off the marking. Add a stripe of colored tape down one side and on the end of the piston. Cover the entire cylinder with clear cello tape. This will preserve the volume marking indefinitely. Stand the syringe in a can or jar after each use. Do the same with the hardener sysringe but use a different colored tape on it. I use plastic jars for the epoxy and hardener. Peanut butter jars (plastic) work well. Color code them too. It does not take long to estimate the volume of epoxy that you require for a particular job. Don't mix more than you require. Get a couple of small syringes too for small jobs. Get a pair of 5 ml, 10 ml and 20 ml syringes. This way you will always have the exact mixing ratios in your glue. With a syringe you can see that you have the required volume. You are not relying on a pump which might have sucked a bit of air around the piston or might not have been pushed all the way to the top or bottom of it's travel. And don't forget the gloves. Keep that epoxy off your skin. I think that the blue "Tyvec" gloves are the best. They are tougher than latex or vinyl gloves. Clean the gloves off with "varsol", hang them up to dry. Next time use "Baby Powder" on your hands before putting them on again. They will last a long time this way. Sorry if I got a bit wordy. Harold Woods Orillia, ON Canada haroldwo...@rogers.com
