Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
We used 2024t3 aluminium thickness is 1.6 . If you make an angle at the lowerside you can use it as a stiffner and you can at the lower flange also connect your min connections. The whole instrument pannel is that stif, that we made good connection at the longaron side so we will remove one wooden member ( from longaron to longaron) Stef > Op 13 februari 2018 om 7:18 schreef Luis Claudio via KRnet > : > > > Thank you guys, great ideas all. I like the idea of the aluminum panel and I > didn't think about the hassle of the foam being more of a detriment than > helping for all the now obvious reasons. Aluminum it is... I like the > grounding and stiffening suggestions and the fact that I already had the > double knockout (can't remember why I bought it but its been sitting in my > garage for years). > I looked at your panels from the links that you provided and I am super > impressed with the work. Lots of great ideas and believe me I will be visiting > your links as I build to make sure that I pick up on some of these great > ideas. I think I can put this to bed and start cutting the aluminum sheet that > I had purchased and was using as a shelf in the work shop...let the cutting > begin... > While I am at it let me share my progress on the building of my KR2: > Dismantled Revmaster 2100D and in the process of re-assembly with the new > heads that Joe (from Revmaster) provided. Final stages of elevator assembly > (complete rebuild) since the PO had cut the elevator with a saw. Converting > from two control sticks to single stick in the center, Installing T-style > throttle assembly and mixture control. completed brakes and rudder peddle > installation. Completed fuel lines, electric fuel pump and selector valve > installation. Mounted electrical flaps controls with actuator. > work left to do: Complete firewall installation, controls to the elevator > (rudder controls completed). mount tail wheel, fabricate control panel and > mount instrumentation, electrical controls, complete engine assembly and > install. > Thanks everyone. > Luis R Claudio, KR2S, Dallas, Texas On Monday, February 12, 2018 > 11:17:27 PM CST, Global Solutions via KRnet > wrote: > > Hi Mark. > > How thick was the aluminum you used on the panel? > > I am now thinking of making mine from AL as well. > > Thanks > > Stan > > > > On 2/12/2018 1:41 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote: > > Luis Claudio wrote: > > > >> I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out > >> of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. > > I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to > > aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, > > and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass > > like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with > > fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the > > "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the > > bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This > > lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the > > panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to > > mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a > > terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to > > connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on > > later. > > > > Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to > > modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet > > cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut > > it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look > > nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more > > like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with > > aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply > > break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, > > most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius > > dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection > > standpoint. > > > > See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel > > with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or > > cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap > > hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever > > want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber > > for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square > > pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the > > panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see > > www.krnet.org for that site). See > > http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a > > similar one. See http://www.k
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Thank you guys, great ideas all. I like the idea of the aluminum panel and I didn't think about the hassle of the foam being more of a detriment than helping for all the now obvious reasons. Aluminum it is... I like the grounding and stiffening suggestions and the fact that I already had the double knockout (can't remember why I bought it but its been sitting in my garage for years). I looked at your panels from the links that you provided and I am super impressed with the work. Lots of great ideas and believe me I will be visiting your links as I build to make sure that I pick up on some of these great ideas. I think I can put this to bed and start cutting the aluminum sheet that I had purchased and was using as a shelf in the work shop...let the cutting begin... While I am at it let me share my progress on the building of my KR2: Dismantled Revmaster 2100D and in the process of re-assembly with the new heads that Joe (from Revmaster) provided. Final stages of elevator assembly (complete rebuild) since the PO had cut the elevator with a saw. Converting from two control sticks to single stick in the center, Installing T-style throttle assembly and mixture control. completed brakes and rudder peddle installation. Completed fuel lines, electric fuel pump and selector valve installation. Mounted electrical flaps controls with actuator. work left to do: Complete firewall installation, controls to the elevator (rudder controls completed). mount tail wheel, fabricate control panel and mount instrumentation, electrical controls, complete engine assembly and install. Thanks everyone. Luis R Claudio, KR2S, Dallas, Texas On Monday, February 12, 2018 11:17:27 PM CST, Global Solutions via KRnet wrote: Hi Mark. How thick was the aluminum you used on the panel? I am now thinking of making mine from AL as well. Thanks Stan On 2/12/2018 1:41 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote: > Luis Claudio wrote: > >> I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of >> aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. > I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to > aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, > and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass > like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with > fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the > "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the > bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This > lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the > panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to > mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a > terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to > connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on > later. > > Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to > modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet > cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut > it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look > nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more > like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with > aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply > break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, > most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius > dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection > standpoint. > > See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel > with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or > cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap > hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever > want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber > for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square > pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the > panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see > www.krnet.org for that site). See > http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a > similar one. See http://www.krnet.org/krs/sandersen/120604_060.jpg for > that one. There's a lot of flexibility in this method, especially if > you're not going to have access to the back of the panel! > > Mark Langford, Harvest, AL > ML "at" N56ML.com > www.N56ML.com > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe fr
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Hi Mark. How thick was the aluminum you used on the panel? I am now thinking of making mine from AL as well. Thanks Stan On 2/12/2018 1:41 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote: Luis Claudio wrote: I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on later. Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection standpoint. See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see www.krnet.org for that site). See http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a similar one. See http://www.krnet.org/krs/sandersen/120604_060.jpg for that one. There's a lot of flexibility in this method, especially if you're not going to have access to the back of the panel! Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel
Sid, Is the aluminum bonded to the fibreglass or held in place by fasteners (including those for the instruments)? Cheers, Tony On 13 February 2018 at 04:28, Sid Wood via KRnet wrote: > I used the RR panel and forward deck for my KR-2. On the back face of the > instrument panel is a aluminum sheet 0.040 to strengthen the fiberglass and > make an electrical ground for all the instruments and radios. > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
On 2/12/2018 10:22 AM, Luis Claudio via KRnet wrote: I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam Luis R Claudio ++ I built my first panel with 1/4" ply and didn't like the way it turned out. The instruments were recessed, difficult to drill holes for instruments accurately, and things like that. I made my second panel ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/1vajeb0u48h0aio/IMG_8717.JPG?dl=0 ) using left over KR cloth, 12 layers, mostly scrap left from wing, with one good layer on the front for appearance. Carbon fiber might look nice or just lay it up on a smooth surface and paint it black. I used a piece of 1/2 round trim from the lumber yard to stiffen the bottom back side with two 1/4" aluminum tubes from the hobby store from the bottom back to the firewall box to stiffen. Just smash the end of the tube flat and bend 90 degrees to mount. I made 5 shock mount locations using approximately 1 1/4" square blocks epoxied to the bottom side of the glare shield. I drilled a hole in the block, then enlarged the hole from each side using a cheap tapered rasp type bit. I installed rubber corks from each side and cut them down so only about 3/16" extended beyond the hole, front and back. I removed the corks and drilled a center hole to accept the mounting bolt. The panel mounts against the rubber cork on the front and I used a "wood washer" against the cork on the back side. Presto !!! I have a shock mounted instrument panel. One advantage I found with glass is that before painting I could back light the panel with instrument in place and precisely drill the mount holes. 12 layers works for me with stiffeners but to do again I might go 14 or so layers. If properly rigged the panel could be hinged on the bottom and fold down with the removal of just a few bolts. I didn't take it that far but it would be nice. Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Sorry Guys, That last one was to go private- Joe Horton - Original Message - From: "n357cj" To: "KRnet" ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Wow, you must have time on your hands today...writing a short novel. How did you make out with the swift firewall? I ordered a new needle today. They are not made from brass anymore and a few more things I learned from their web page. They also don't offer the 38mm carb anymore. J - Original Message - From: "KRnet" To: "KRnet" Cc: "Mark Langford" Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 2:16:17 PM Subject: Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S I should've included a link to my first N56ML panel, which is at http://www.n56ml.com/kpanel.html . I didn't emphasize the utility of the bottom shelf, but my next panel will probably have a 6" shelf on the bottom for all that extra stuff. Really, 062" aluminum is thicker than it needs to beI'll go for .040" on the next one Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I should've included a link to my first N56ML panel, which is at http://www.n56ml.com/kpanel.html . I didn't emphasize the utility of the bottom shelf, but my next panel will probably have a 6" shelf on the bottom for all that extra stuff. Really, 062" aluminum is thicker than it needs to beI'll go for .040" on the next one Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I followed Marks panel and made it out of aluminum. I paid some hvac shop 20 bucks to put a two inch bend in the bottom. All of my wiring and ground bus is installed on the shelf for an easy install. Two bolts on the side through some wood blocks and two screws on the top hold it in. The two top screws go into a small 4130 rod from the panel to the firewall which makes a nice point to run wires to the firewall. You can see how I did it on my website at mykitlog.com/vr6chris or my Facebook album which is public. Chris Pryce Vacaville, CA ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Luis Claudio wrote: > I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of > aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on later. Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection standpoint. See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see www.krnet.org for that site). See http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a similar one. See http://www.krnet.org/krs/sandersen/120604_060.jpg for that one. There's a lot of flexibility in this method, especially if you're not going to have access to the back of the panel! Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel
I used the RR panel and forward deck for my KR-2. On the back face of the instrument panel is a aluminum sheet 0.040 to strengthen the fiberglass and make an electrical ground for all the instruments and radios. All holes for instruments and screws are match-drilled through the fiberglass, aluminum sheet and bracing. The bottom of the panel has a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/16 inch aluminum angle for stiffing the edge. An additional angle goes between the center bottom and the C box at the fire wall for additional bracing and to shorten some wiring between the panel and the fire wall. The aluminum sheet helps to keep down electrical and radio frequency noise interference. https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/18463865595144e88cd2fca.jpg Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 California, MD, USA I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great to be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and suggestion... working like the dickens to get this bird flying... Luis R Claudio, KR2S Dallas, Texas ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I built my first panel with aircraft grade plywood and the second with 6061-T6 Aluminum sheet when I replaced the original a few years ago. Photos of both are at <http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/2013_Panel.html>. If I had to do another, I would use Aluminum again. Aluminum made for a pretty simple and clean installation. Aircraft Spruce sells a double ended punch that has the two primary instrument hole sizes on each end for $160, but somebody in your local EAA Chapter should have the punches available to use. Everything else can be done with a die grinder (or Dremel) and a unibit. Building a panel using foam core is a problem in that the screws will want to pull into the panel unless you clean around every screw hole and fill with milled fibers or flox. If I wanted a composite panel (which I have considered), I would do a single layup of carbon fiber for the face, then laminate the rest with glass, probably 8 - 10 lay ups to make a reasonably solid panel. I need to build a new panel for my SuperCub clone sometime in the near future. Maybe I'll try that method. Thanks for planting the seed to make me think about it. :o) -Jeff Scott Cherokee Village, AR Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 at 9:22 AM Cc: "Luis Claudio" Subject: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great to be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and suggestion... working like the dickens to get this bird flying... Luis R Claudio, KR2S Dallas, Texas _ ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
"aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam" Luis, That sounds kind of familiar. Because of my lack of experience and tools for working aluminum I decided to make mine out of 1/4" aircraft plywood. I then put a layer of glass on both sides with a silk weave on the front. You could probably do the same thing with 1/8" plywood but I would probably up the glass layers. Using the plywood allowed me to bolt through it where ever I needed to without having to scrape away foam and add flox for reinforcement. I just use normal wood tools to make the shape I needed. But its biggest advantage is that it is very easily modified. Many changes since I started my build. Still the original panel. Stephen Teate Paradise, Texas The information in this email is confidential and may be legally privileged. If you are not an intended recipient, you should delete this message. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorized, and any disclosure, copying, distribution or action taken or omitted in reliance on it is prohibited and may be unlawful. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I used 1/4" plywood and put a brown laminate on it. I have a small shock mounted Aluminum panel in the middle. The entire panel is removed with 8 screws. The panel with instruments shown weighs about 8 lbs. Not sure how that compares to the other materials. http://kr2seafury.com/7.html Craig > On February 12, 2018 at 11:22 AM Luis Claudio via KRnet > wrote: > > > I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of > aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you > did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great > to be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and suggestion... > working like the dickens to get this bird flying... > Luis R Claudio, KR2S Dallas, Texas > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great to be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and suggestion... working like the dickens to get this bird flying... Luis R Claudio, KR2S Dallas, Texas ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Instrument panel wire
Dave, generally Cat5 and automotive cable is insulated with PVC. PVC is flammable, burns readily creating copious amounts of thick, toxic smoke rendering it virtually impossible for pilots to see their flight instruments or BREATHE. I would strongly suggest you use aircraft quality wire (Tefzel) or research other types carefully. Paul Smith Brisbane, AUSTRALIA pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/ -Original Message- Dave_A said: Is there any issue with using Cat5 ethernet cable for making data (say, encoder -> transponder) and audio-panel hookups, and with, say, 18ga automotive wire for 14v power (to/from circuit breakers)?
KR> Instrument panel wire(antenna)
On 12/2/2011 10:58 AM, Dave_A wrote: > The reason I said 58U is that (From what I'd seen online) 58 U foam-core > has some of the lowest attenuation of the 'common' cable types (1.7db, > IIRC) > I don't disagree with you. I've used it with great results, as have many people over the years. I'm not starting an argument (this is more for my own personal education), but I just don't see much of a benefit... at least that would drive me to rip it out of my plane. Yes, it's true that lower loss is better, but what range increase will you really see? I did some calcs to highlight the differences between the two cable types. Granted, they are simple and there are many other variables that I won't pretend to know about, but here it is: Parameters - 15 ft Coax Length 1:1 SWR (assumed) 8W Carrier Output Power Results - RG-58 - 6.8W Output Power (.69dB total loss) RG-8X - 7.0W Output Power (.58dB total loss) Perhaps it's more of a question about how far you can receive? Glenn, if so, can you show me? I just don't know. Matt
KR> Instrument panel wire(antenna)
On 12/2/2011 7:14 PM, Matt Elder wrote: > On 12/2/2011 9:32 AM, Glenn Martin wrote: >> Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead. > You say too lossy. At the frequencies we run at, what's the difference > in attenuation? > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html The reason I said 58U is that (From what I'd seen online) 58 U foam-core has some of the lowest attenuation of the 'common' cable types (1.7db, IIRC) It worked well enough for 10Base2 Ethernet (And yes, I actually have worked with/used 10Base2 in the past... It was simple, and it worked (until 10mbps became too slow))
KR> Instrument panel wire
> They are available through the EAA. > Larry Flesner I looked up the author in question on Google Books, and his books are on there, too... Which is nice for someone like me, who is in a place that has no reliable mail service.
KR> Instrument panel wire(antenna)
On 12/2/2011 8:44 AM, Matt Elder wrote: > On 12/2/2011 9:32 AM, Glenn Martin wrote: >> Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead. > You say too lossy. At the frequencies we run at, what's the difference > in attenuation? > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > at 100 MHz: rg-58u: 4.5db/100 ft rg-8x: 3.1db/100ft LMR-400: 1.2db/100ft (a larger diameter cable, but relatively lightweight) this provides a MAJOR improvement in received signal strength over RG-58 (50% less loss) -- Glenn Martin, KR2 N1333A, Biloxi, MS
KR> Instrument panel wire(antenna)
On 12/2/2011 9:32 AM, Glenn Martin wrote: > Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead. You say too lossy. At the frequencies we run at, what's the difference in attenuation?
KR> Instrument panel wire(antenna)
On 12/2/2011 3:08 AM, Dave_A wrote: > I'm assuming RG58/U for antenna wire... > > ___ > Not RG-58. Too lossy. Use RG-8X instead. -- Glenn Martin, KR2 N1333A, Biloxi, MS
KR> Instrument panel wire
On 12/2/2011 4:08 AM, Dave_A wrote: > Is there any real advantage to teflon-coated aircraft wire over more > common twisted-pair varieties? Well, it won't make a highly poisonous gas when it burns... And it doesn't like to/won't burn in air (read self-extinguishing). A good thing if you have an electrical fire... Also, the Tefzel wire is tough stuff. The insulation won't wear through nearly as fast as the automotive will. You should be using Tefzel coated wire where possible. For the amount of wire in the airplane, the cost difference between using automotive wire and aircraft wire was not worth the effort/risk to "cheap out" for me. You can even get multi-conductor shielded wire for your data applications that comes as aircraft wire. RG-58/U is one possible coax, yes. You'll need to consult the manuals for your radio/XPDR to make sure the impedance required is 50 Ohm (I think most are.) I only mention that because RG-59 is 75 Ohm and looks pretty much the same. Matt
KR> Instrument panel wire
I second that. Also I think everyone should own a copy of Aeroelectric Connection. Go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/ and buy the book. There is a great deal of information on his site, but the book is priceless. Matt > +++ > > When in doubt, consult your Tony Bingelis book with the chart of amp > loads and wire size needed, in a bundle or open air. Everyone > building should have all of Tony's books, especially his first > three. "Firewall Forward" might be optional as it seems to deal > mostly with Lycombing engines but there is still a lot of good info > in it also. They are available through the EAA. > > Larry Flesner
KR> Instrument panel wire
> > > I used Tefzel everywhere I could. >Yes, there is a lot of 22ga wire used, to cut down on weight where heavier >wire is not needed. When in doubt, I always used the heavier ga wire. >Daniel R. Heath +++ When in doubt, consult your Tony Bingelis book with the chart of amp loads and wire size needed, in a bundle or open air. Everyone building should have all of Tony's books, especially his first three. "Firewall Forward" might be optional as it seems to deal mostly with Lycombing engines but there is still a lot of good info in it also. They are available through the EAA. Larry Flesner
KR> Instrument panel wire
Dave, Seems like you know what you need to use. I used Tefzel everywhere I could. Yes, there is a lot of 22ga wire used, to cut down on weight where heavier wire is not needed. When in doubt, I always used the heavier ga wire. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il MVN 40th Anniversary There is a time for building and it never seems to end. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC -Original Message- What do you guys use for your electrical wiring between instruments and such?
KR> Instrument panel wire
What do you guys use for your electrical wiring between instruments and such? Most of the photos I've seen show wire that's quite thin (makes sense for weight savings) - on the order of phone-jack wire or Cat5 I'm assuming RG58/U for antenna wire... Is there any issue with using Cat5 ethernet cable for making data (say, encoder -> transponder) and audio-panel hookups, and with, say, 18ga automotive wire for 14v power (to/from circuit breakers)? Is there any real advantage to teflon-coated aircraft wire over more common twisted-pair varieties? I assume that power and data connections should be routed away from each other... The gear I bought has it's 'internal' harnesses intact (eg, between navcom and obs, or between the various EFIS components), so most of my wiring will be limited to audio and power. The only 2 devices I need to connect for data transmission are the transponder and the EFIS (which has an internal grey-code encoder)...
KR> Instrument Panel
As a KRnet list member recently reported: No more Panel Diving. I cut my forward deck in two about 16 inches aft of the firewall. Now I have wide-open access to the back of the panel, master cylinders, batteries, wiring, etc. I can now fix the three wiring glitches standing flat-footed on the concrete. If I have to leave it in the rain someday, I will use duct tape on the seam like Mark Jones showed me at AirVenture. Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA smw...@md.metrocast.net
KR> Instrument Panel Wiring
Keep the Smoke inside the wires. If it gets out, OOO,OOO, Virg On 12/26/2010 7:45 PM, smwood wrote: > > Per Larry Flesner's advice, lots of wiring diagrams and notes for each > instrument, radio and connector. Every end of every wire is documented and > double checked. Expect first panel light-off/smoke check in about a week. > https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/14681324364d17d64f279e7.jpg > > Sid Wood > Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 > Mechanicsville, MD, USA > smw...@md.metrocast.net > > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
KR> Instrument Panel Wiring
Wiring the instrument panel on my KR-2 is almost done. The panel is a Rand factory unit with panel and forward deck as one single piece. The panel and forward deck is screwed in place and removable as need be for annual condition inspection and possible future mods. The GPS antenna is mounted above the radio under the forward deck. I used 5 different crimpers for the 27 various connector types and splices, 2 wire strippers and yes, the propane torch too. Per Larry Flesner's advice, lots of wiring diagrams and notes for each instrument, radio and connector. Every end of every wire is documented and double checked. Expect first panel light-off/smoke check in about a week. https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/14681324364d17d64f279e7.jpg Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA smw...@md.metrocast.net
KR> Instrument Panel Wiring
WOW Great Thanks to Jon Finley for the link to AeroElectric Connection... This is definitely a KEEPER. Joe. E. Wallace jwallace...@gmail.com On Oct 29, 2010, at 5:26 PM, Jon Finley wrote: > > All, > > I hope everyone is familiar with the AeroElectric Connection and Bob Nuckolls > work.
Re: KR> Instrument Panel Wiring
All, I hope everyone is familiar with the AeroElectric Connection and Bob Nuckolls work. The Connection has created a number of "recipes" for fault tolerant electric systems along with gobs of good information. There is no reason for any homebuilt to have an electrical system fault that causes an emergency. [http://www.aeroelectric.com] http://www.aeroelectric.com Jon Finley -Original Message- From: "Larry&Sallie Flesner" Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 3:00pm To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR> Instrument Panel Wiring At 08:37 AM 10/29/2010, you wrote: >This wire goes from this terminal here to the >terminal over there. I can do that. Ok, leave enough slack to make a >bundle for support. Run the next wire along the length of the first wire. >Next thing I realize, hey I'm wiring the panel. >Sid Wood
KR> Instrument Panel Wiring
At 08:37 AM 10/29/2010, you wrote: >This wire goes from this terminal here to the >terminal over there. I can do that. Ok, leave enough slack to make a >bundle for support. Run the next wire along the length of the first wire. >Next thing I realize, hey I'm wiring the panel. >Sid Wood I hope you're making the schematics while you go, i.e., terminal strip pin numbers, wire numbers, switches, circuit breakers, etc. You'll thank your self a thousand times the first time you have to troubleshoot an electrical problem. The one and only electrical problem I've had to date, loss of main electrical buss, was corrected with two meter checks thanks to detailed wiring schematic. It doesn't have to be fancy, just hand drawn, and each circuit can have it's own page if you want. Larry Flesner
KR> Instrument Panel Wiring
I have started wiring on my KR-2 instrument panel. I have had some experience on this sort of thing, but that was many years ago. Looking at all the schematics for all the gadgets and switches with wires running every which way was daunting to say the least. Truth be known, I found other things to do for a couple months while "I thought about it". Then a divine revelation came upon me: This wire goes from this terminal here to the terminal over there. I can do that. Ok, leave enough slack to make a bundle for support. Run the next wire along the length of the first wire. Next thing I realize, hey I'm wiring the panel. Eating the elephant, one bite at a time. Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA smw...@md.metrocast.net
KR> Instrument panel thickness
Hi all, I'm starting to build the instrument panel. Of course, there are always questions that pops up, where the answer is dependant on a lot of variables. I plan to build the panel from 3mm (might be 2.8, I'm not sure) plywood, and I need to know what thickness is required to ensure the panel will be stiff enough. I understand that it is firstly important to know WHAT will be installed. Well, I'm very much in the steam-age regarding my instruments, so they are heavier than the nice electronic gadgets one can buy. Should I stick 2 plies together, or will one be enough? Regards. JC JC Marais Centurion South Africa 082-401-5259 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.2/2215 - Release Date: 07/08/09 05:53:00
KR> instrument panel, human hailstone
Mark Langford *I read your 'e' about the type IV VW engines. Where you suggest I start looking for them and are they a VW engine or a Porshe engine?* And, what would you expect to pay for one? Marty Martin
KR> instrument panel, human hailstone
NetHeads, The discussion on instrument panels is rather timely to me, as I just designed a new one for my airplane. The main driver is the change from my now defunct Terra TRT-250 to a more reliable Becker (fine German stuff) ATC 4401-175, which conveniently fits into a standard 2.25" intrument hole. Nobody makes a half-width radio sized one except Terra, who was killed by competitor Trimble soon after they bought them. Anyway, now that I've flown for 320 hours and the dust has settled on what works and what doesn't, I decided I'd just throw another panel in there (if I can quit flying long enough). Another driver is the lack of room to do a neat wiring job. My panel is rolled under about 2.5" to provide stiffness and a sort of tray to run wires. 5-6" would be a lot nicer, giving me plenty of room to put terminal strips, switches, headphone jacks, power outlets, filters, timers, tie-downs, and that sort of thing. So the next one is pretty much designed, and shown at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/krpanel_new.jpg . The "centerpiece" for this thing is the daylight viewable LS-800 tablet PC that I'll use to run Chartcase. You get a moving map GPS with your airplane superimposed on the most current sectional. I've sprung for the WX weather module too, so I'll have current Nexrad weather on that same image. That's a budget busting $50 a month, but as Brian Kraut pointed out, it pays for itself if the alternative is spending a couple of days in a hotel missing work. This screen is about 4x bigger than a Garmin 386 screen, and the hardware won't be obsolete in a year or two, since it's simply a tablet PC that can run anything (and do email when I'm on vacation). KRnetter John Buoyea is one of the developers of the product, which is how I found out about it. It's an enhanced version of the free online FlightPrep stuff that Dana (of metal darkside fame) was going on about a few weeks ago. It'll be awesome, but it won't all be installed until after the Gathering. I should be running it on a laptop before then though. And since I carry a laptop to gather EIS data on each flight anyway, I'll actually be saving weight with the LS800. I should mention that I really couldn't figure out which hand I fly with, since I really don't notice. But after thinking about it, I decided it's whichever one is handy. On takeoff I keep my hand on the throttle, so it must be the right one (I'm left handed), but I tune the radio and punch on the EIS with the other one, so apparently I just use whichever one is handy. That's one of the big benefits of having dual sticks...your right hand isn't tied up all the time in the only place it can be to fly the plane. Since it's Friday, I've got to tell you a quick story that just blows my mind. I'm into clouds (for the last year) so my wife bought a book on clouds for me. There's a chaper on thunderclouds (cumulonimbus) and how they work and why they do what they do. They recount the story of William Rankin, a guy who was forced to punch out over a raging thunderstorm. The guy wrote a book about the experience named "The Man who Rode the Thunder" (you can buy a used copy for $300, or pay $3 for an interlibrary loan like I have in the works). Here's a quick synopsis I found on the web: - EXTREME SPORT: PARACHUTING INTO A THUNDERSTORM U.S. Marine Corpse pilot William Rankin had the unfortunate experience of almost becoming a human hailstone when the engine in his fighter jet, a supersonic F8U, failed at 47,000 in the upper levels of a severe thunderstorm over Norfolk, Virginia, in 1959. He bailed out and free fell 37,000 feet through the storm cloud before his parachute engaged. But instead of floating gently to earth, he was caught in the violent updrafts of the storm and actually rose as much as 6,000 feet. For 45 minutes he was lifted and dropped through the thunderstorm's cloud. I was blown up and down as much as 6,000 feet at a time. It went on for a long time, like being on a very fast elevater, with strong blasts of compressed air hitting you. Once when a violent blast of air sent me careering up into the chute and I could feel the cold, wet nylon collapsing about me, I was sure the chute would never blossom again. But, by some miracle, I fell back and the chute did recover it's billow. The wind had savage allies. The first clap of thunder came as a deafening explosion that literally shook my teeth. I didnt hear the thunder, I actually felt it-an almost unbearable physical experience. If it had not been for my closely fitted helmut, the explosions my have shattered my eardrums. I saw lightning all around me in every shape imaginable. When very close, it appeard mainy as a huge, bluish sheet several feet thick, sometimes sticking close to me in pairs, like the blades of a scissors, and I had the dist
KR> instrument panel
Last night I wrote that the Motion Computing LS-800 was daylight readable. After seeing one in person in my cockpit today, I'd have to say that's debatable, and this is the "view anywhere" version. The guy's I borrowed uses it in his wide open Swift, and says "it works for me". In direct sun or shaded from direct sun it is visible, but not as visible as I'd hoped. Still, it fits my panel perfectly, so I may go for it anyway. Just wanted to clarify that it's not optimal from a visibility standpoint, but fits in just about every other way for what I need it to do... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net --
KR> instrument panel
At 01:35 PM 9/16/2006, you wrote: >In direct sun >or shaded from direct sun it is visible, but not as visible as I'd hoped. >Still, it fits my panel perfectly, so I may go for it anyway. +++ Sounds like you may want to include a sun shade along with the installation. Larry Flesner
KR> instrument panel
Try: 3MT Executive Glass Computer Glare Filters, make a bracket that allows you to fold the screen out of the way. And add a hood. I tried a PDA with APIC software and found it to small so I'm mounting a LCD display with a touch screen into the console recessed 2 inches and a sun filter that moves out of the way. For anyone to claim a LCD is direct sunlight readable is BS, that would mean the backlight of the LCD is brighter then the SUN! Before you spend $2700 check out http://www.approach-systems.com/apic.asp -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mark Langford Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 12:36 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> instrument panel Last night I wrote that the Motion Computing LS-800 was daylight readable. After seeing one in person in my cockpit today, I'd have to say that's debatable, and this is the "view anywhere" version. The guy's I borrowed uses it in his wide open Swift, and says "it works for me". In direct sun or shaded from direct sun it is visible, but not as visible as I'd hoped. Still, it fits my panel perfectly, so I may go for it anyway. Just wanted to clarify that it's not optimal from a visibility standpoint, but fits in just about every other way for what I need it to do... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -- ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> instrument panel
The $2700 for the LS-800 was from here: http://www.aviationsafety.com/ls_800.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Angus Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 5:05 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: RE: KR> instrument panel Try: 3MT Executive Glass Computer Glare Filters, make a bracket that allows you to fold the screen out of the way. And add a hood. I tried a PDA with APIC software and found it to small so I'm mounting a LCD display with a touch screen into the console recessed 2 inches and a sun filter that moves out of the way. For anyone to claim a LCD is direct sunlight readable is BS, that would mean the backlight of the LCD is brighter then the SUN! Before you spend $2700 check out http://www.approach-systems.com/apic.asp -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mark Langford Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 12:36 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> instrument panel Last night I wrote that the Motion Computing LS-800 was daylight readable. After seeing one in person in my cockpit today, I'd have to say that's debatable, and this is the "view anywhere" version. The guy's I borrowed uses it in his wide open Swift, and says "it works for me". In direct sun or shaded from direct sun it is visible, but not as visible as I'd hoped. Still, it fits my panel perfectly, so I may go for it anyway. Just wanted to clarify that it's not optimal from a visibility standpoint, but fits in just about every other way for what I need it to do... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -- ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> instrument panel
At 04:21 PM 5/24/2006, you wrote: >Progress is slow.I don't have any pictures of the instrument panel,because I >don't have it together yet. >Bob Glidden + Bob, I built my panel using 12 layers of KR cloth and finished with a layer of deck cloth. Or maybe it was just 8 layers, I can't recall. That was several years ago. It could stand to be a bit thicker but I reinforced it along the bottom back side with a piece of 5/8" spruce and then rounded the front bottom corner. I used a fly cutter to cut the instrument holes and a regular bit for the switch and circuit breaker holes. I also installed two light weight aluminum tubes from the panel to the firewall for stiffening and used them to support wiring to the firewall. Larry Flesner
KR> instrument panel
Instrument panel made of .063 aluminum and holes cut with hole saws. http://krbuilder.org/Electrical/index.html A couple of pics from the top. I made the one on my first KR out of luan plywood covered with a couple of layers of glass. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you in Mt. Vernon - 2006 - KR Gathering There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building is OVER. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
Réf. : KR> instrument panel
When I bought ZS-WEC, her instrument panel was made of a 4mm thick sheet
of Perspex (dark tinted). I replaced that, and did two instrument panels
since. The first one was made of a 0.8mm sheet of 2024 T4 aluminum. I
should mention there is a central piece of wood behind, so the thickness
was OK, except for the automotive instruments that would distort it.
Second iteration was 1.2mm, and I made flanges to convert all the
automotive instruments into aircraft type
ones.
As for the holes, I cut the smallest ones with wood drill bits, the larger
with wood "spades" bits, and large instrument holes with a fly cutter.
If it was to be done again, I would put the panel on shock absorbers.
Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France
"Dan Heath"
Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
25/05/2006 01:40
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 25/05/2006 01:40
Pour :
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : KR> instrument panel
Instrument panel made of .063 aluminum and holes cut with hole saws.
http://krbuilder.org/Electrical/index.html
A couple of pics from the top.
I made the one on my first KR out of luan plywood covered with a couple of
layers of glass.
See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
See you in Mt. Vernon - 2006 - KR Gathering
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for
building
is OVER.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> instrument panel
At 03:18 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote: >If it was to be done again, I would put the panel on shock absorbers. >Serge Vidal ++ I shock mounted my panel with some very simple (read cheap) shock mounts. See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/brakes1.jpg The wood blocks in the upper left are two of the five that the panel mounts to. They are epoxied to the bottom side of the forward deck. The holes are "tapper" drilled from both sides to accept rubber corks from the hardware store. The corks are cut to size so that they extend approx 1/4" beyond each side of the block when compressed. They have a hole drilled through the center to accept the #10 flathead bolts that secures the panel. As always, your results may vary. :-) Larry Flesner
KR> instrument panel
3$ pice of birch ply from Home Depot. Instrument hole cut with hole saw - tint to look like mahogany/rosewood. 4 Coats of clearcheap and easy - looks good. Check it out on N41768...Bill
KR> instrument panel update
KRnetHeads, OK, I've gotta gloat here. Check this out... http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/040607136m.jpg or http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kpanel.html#update if you want to read a couple of paragraphs about it. There are some wires that need to be tied off and clamped in place, but the panel is pretty much done enough to fly it. Larry, could you create a "Best Picture of a Panel" category for the awards this year? That's one I might have a shot at. Or maybe a "Most Often Promised to Appear, But Failed" award would be more appropriate! I agree wholeheartedly with Jim Faughn on the on this. Just finish the dang things and fly 'em to the Gathering! We get the same old ones there, year after year. I hope it's not because people are ashamed of 'em. There are guys who show up every year in KRs that aren't anything to write home about, but the difference in them and us is that they are FLYING, and we are just goofing around WISHING we were flying, at least in my case. I hope to change that soon. I'm about to go to the other side... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
KR>Instrument panel labeling
I had seen the use of label machines in labeling instrument panels before but got my first taste of it yesterday. I bought this at Office Max (or Office Depot, heck I can't ever remember which one it is we have in town:-) at a whole whoppin $19 yesterday. http://rvflying.tripod.com/label.jpg Supposedly they are UV resistant, waterproof and non-scratchable. Sure enough, I can't scratch the lettering off with my fingernail. I'm going to heat a couple of them up as if under the canopy on a summer day and see what they do. From what I hear, they work just fine. You can get all differnet colors such as: black/clear, red/clear, gold/black..the list goes on. You can print in five different sizes, nine different styles including vertically and six different underlines or frames. I know numerous people will post other ways to do it that work just fine, so have at it as I don't remember this thread popping up here lately. For $19 this falls right into my line of thinking which is cheapest/easiest, kinda like the $18 cheapest/easiest static system. BTW, this is a Brother P-touch 1180.piece a cake!! Yes, sure I will have an Eject button in my airplane on the passenger side:-) Another BTW, I'll post a big time, major, put a smile on my face cheapest/easiest tomorrow on Fun Friday...course I'll probably get a few smacks over the head with baseball bats, but so be it. Like the ol saying goes: When you play with fire you sometimes get burnt but most of the time you end up with a nice steak:-) Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Engine. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _ Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
KR>Instrument panel labeling
This is also how I did my labelling: Brother P-Touch, 2 sizes of black label ribbon: 6.35mm and 12.7mm, or if you prefer, 1/4" and 1/2". Works great, looks great, sticks hard. Except that in South Africa, the machines entry prices are $ 80 or so, and each ribbon is sold $ 12 or so! Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Dana Overall Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 12:36 To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR>Instrument panel labeling I had seen the use of label machines in labeling instrument panels before but got my first taste of it yesterday. I bought this at Office Max (or Office Depot, heck I can't ever remember which one it is we have in town:-) at a whole whoppin $19 yesterday. http://rvflying.tripod.com/label.jpg Supposedly they are UV resistant, waterproof and non-scratchable. Sure enough, I can't scratch the lettering off with my fingernail. I'm going to heat a couple of them up as if under the canopy on a summer day and see what they do. From what I hear, they work just fine. You can get all differnet colors such as: black/clear, red/clear, gold/black..the list goes on. You can print in five different sizes, nine different styles including vertically and six different underlines or frames. I know numerous people will post other ways to do it that work just fine, so have at it as I don't remember this thread popping up here lately. For $19 this falls right into my line of thinking which is cheapest/easiest, kinda like the $18 cheapest/easiest static system. BTW, this is a Brother P-touch 1180.piece a cake!! Yes, sure I will have an Eject button in my airplane on the passenger side:-) Another BTW, I'll post a big time, major, put a smile on my face cheapest/easiest tomorrow on Fun Friday...course I'll probably get a few smacks over the head with baseball bats, but so be it. Like the ol saying goes: When you play with fire you sometimes get burnt but most of the time you end up with a nice steak:-) Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Engine. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _ Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418 ___ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR>Instrument panel labeling
>I had seen the use of label machines in labeling instrument panels before >but got my first taste of it yesterday. I bought this at Office Max (or >Office Depot, heck I can't ever remember which one it is we have in town:-) >at a whole whoppin $19 yesterday. >http://rvflying.tripod.com/label.jpg >Dana Overall ++= Wal-Mart sells a similar unit made by a different company but basicly the same features and easy to use. If I can figure it out without the book anyone can do it. I started my panel labeling with the pre-printed set from Wicks for $10 or so and finished it up with the label maker after my wife bought one on sale at Target for $9.99. I think they sell at Wal-Mart in the $16 - $19 range. They have the same selection of (paper or plastic) tape colors. My panel is grey so I used the black print on clear tape. The DAR complimented me on the panel labeling for what that's worth. I've not had any problem with any of the labels trying to peel off. I even have labels near my gas caps that have gotten soaked in fuel and the print is still as clear as when I printed it and the labels are still stuck tight. No tendancy to peel up at the edges or anything. The brand name "Electro-Tag comes to mind but I'm not sure. They have several models to chose from and I've got the cheaper one. As always, your results may vary. :-) Larry Flesner
KR>Instrument panel labeling
I use a brother p-touch for all my of my labeling needs and I can tell you this. Once they have been in place for about a month, they do not like to come off. I got over zealous labeling a rack that I had a bunch of switches and patch panels in that was made of aluminum. Later decided to change some things and I had a bear of a time getting them to peel off. And if you do like Larry and use the clear tape it will almost look like your panel was printed that way.
KR>Instrument panel labeling
In a message dated 1/29/04 7:31:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, jwald...@guarantybankva.com writes: > I got over zealous labeling a rack that I had a bunch of switches > and patch panels in that was made of aluminum. Later decided to change some > things and I had a bear of a time getting them to peel off. > Try a heat gun. -R.S.Hoover (KA6HZF)
KR>Instrument panel labeling
In a message R.S. Hoover writes: Try a heat gun. I eventually did. I was just making the point that it takes a lot for them to peel off. J. Waldron jwald...@guarantybankva.com
KR>Instrument panel labeling
Larry wrote: >The brand name "Electro-Tag comes to > mind but I'm not sure Larry, KRnet, et al: It's a "Dymo Letra Tag". I have one I use for filing etc around the house. Works great. ps. I finished my airfoil conversion by securing the aft spar back in place over the weekend. I think I have a total of about 8 hours from the first pilot hole to start cutting to clamping the spar after it had been epoxied. Small price to pay for the increased performance... Dean Cooper Jacksonville, FL Email me at dean_coo...@bellsouth.net See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html
