Re: [lace] Roller pillow

[robinlace]

The rollers I've made for pillows used the fibrous-type carpet padding.  That's 
getting harder to find, more and more carpet stores sell only the foam rubber 
type.  The short ends should be cut at an angle (taper the material) so that 
there are no ridges where the padding starts and stops.  The rug padding is a 
lot thicker than wool blankets, so it doesn't take as much tedious winding.  
Then a relatively short strip of wool blanket over the padding and a cover.  
The fibrous padding holds the pins well and is easily penetrated by them.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

 lacel...@frontier.com wrote: 
There are ways to make long-lasting rollers, and ways that are shorter lived.  
The best rollers, and long lasting, are made from wool fabric, rolled around a 
supporting dowel.  They need to be just deeper than the length of pins to be 
used.  Thick sections of cotton fabric would be hard to pin into.

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Re: [lace] prickings

[robinlace]

 Lorelei Halley  wrote: 
I've noticed that a lot of art supplies that used to be easily available just 
don't exist any more.  I
suppose the age of computer art has destroyed all the felt markers, colored 
plastic sticky film.  But there are still people who use actual paints, aren't 
there?  


There are still art stores, such as Dick Blick and William Smith.  There are 
also many online sources for markers, colored pencils, technical pens, 
portfolios, etc.  That stuff is also often available in Office Supply stores 
and even JoAnne's and Michael's craft stores.  [All of these are US places, 
sorry I don't know the international market.]  Drawing & painting, like making 
lace, is not a lost art.

Robin P.
robinl...@socal.rr.com
Los Angeles, California, USA

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[lace] Pillows

[mary carey]

I have not made a roller pillow, but have made several sizes of blocks for
block pillows.  I am lucky to be a quilter also which leaves me with pieces of
wool batting which make excellent coverings for styrofoam before putting
cotton - homespun - over that.  The largest is a 23 1/2" square pillow (has a
masonite base with sides made by a friend's husband) and it has it's second
Eeva-Liisa picture on it at the moment.

One roller pillow (as per Pamela Nottihgham's book) was made for me by an
upholsterer and that works well too.

Mary Carey
Campbelltown, NSW, Australia

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Subject: [lace] roller pillows

[Witchy Woman]

Subject: [lace] roller pillows


In 2005 I had a fire at my house and lost all of my lace pillows.  About 3 
years ago I decided to take it up again and started from 
scratch...literally.


My oldest pillow is a homemade roller pillow I take back and forth to work. 
It's made of a a scrap of foam insulation  board for the base with a small 
wooden cigar box (about 3"x5") to hold the roller, and the roller made out 
of strips of felted wool wrapped around a dowel, pinned and covered with a 
layer of cotton to keep the fuzz away from the lace.


For the felted wool I went to the thrift store on 50% off Monday and bought 
a thick 100% wool coat for $5.00.  (I love thrift stores!!)  I threw it in 
the washer in hot water and ran it through the cycle twice, then threw it in 
a hot dryer for about an hour.  It shrank beautifully.  I cut the coat into 
strips as wide as the dowel and wrapped tightly until it fit in the cigar 
box.  I drilled 2 small holes in the box and use corsage pins to hold the 
roller in place when I'm working.


I've tried other materials for rollers, but I like this type of wool roller 
the best.  It hasn't broken down and when it does I still have a lot of the 
coat left to make another roller.


Peg
in Fairview Park OH...where the weather is just the right amount of cool for 
good sleeping.  Sweet dreams everyone.


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[lace] Re: How do you sit

[Chris Brill-Packard]

I learned several years ago after acquiring tennis elbow from  a lap top
computer (not using an external mouse) for large statistical report
and working on a lace project that I had to learn to be more careful.   My
physical therapist stated to me to try to move every 20-30 minutes.  Stand up
and move, go get a drink, go outside for a breath of fresh air, let the dogs
outside, etc - which helps the eyes, hands, elbow, legs and back.   

With
weather permitting - I have found sitting outside in the shade in
an Adirondack chair (I have a wide pillow that will sides will sit on the arms
of the chair) is very comfortable because the knees are higher than the butt
and the lace work is even with my elbows.  The additional plus is the natural
lighting is excellent!  

Inside, I use a dining room chair with a high back
that support my lower back properly with an adjustable lace table. I try to
move my floor lamp around to the right angle so I do not have to bend to see
the pin holes.  I use the sofa table at my side for my pattern holder.   I
also vary this if I am using the standard round pillow - by sitting on my sofa
with a stool to put one foot up on the stool at a time - alternating every few
minutes.  

I had a lower back injury due to a car hitting my car in the
rear.  So flexing the lower back by changing leg positions is helpful.  I
also find that when I do my daily walking for 30-60 minutes every day, sitting
for an hour or two working on lace is not as difficult.

 Chris Brill-Packard,
Cleveland, Ohio area

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Re: [lace] Irish linen thread

[Brenda Paternoster]

I'm not aware of *any* linen thread currently available that is fine enough for 
point ground.

Fresia linen (Belgian) size 100/2 is about the finest linen generally available 
but at 32/wraps/cm it compares in thickness to ordinary sewing machine Sylko 50

If you want to make fine lace you will have to either use cotton or silk, or 
hope to find some old linen somewhere.

Brenda

On 15 Aug 2011, at 23:18, Lora wrote:

> Would anyone happen to know of a supplier of irish linen thread suitable for 
> Point ground and other fine bobbin laces
> 
> Or a thread available in the uk with similar properties , softness, fineness, 
> smoothness ect?
> 
> I have in the past tried a bokens linen but found it too rough and unevenly 
> spun to work with

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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Re: [lace] Roller pillow

[L.Snyder]

Be careful of cotton batting!
I tried to make a pin cushion of several layers of a cotton mattress 
pad, and pins would not go through it! It was solid. Maybe this was 
because it was old and compacted? I don't know. I went for poly instead.

Lauren


On 8/15/2011 4:22 PM, Jane Partridge wrote:
In message 
, 
Lorelei Halley  writes

I haven't
tried cotton or polyesther batting.  Possibly several layers of 
cotton quilt
batting would work.  But I would take a pin to the quilt store and 
test it --
try sticking the pin through several layers of batting to see how it 
feels.


Cotton batting might work OK, but I can remember the advice against 
using polyester stuffing for pin cushions due to the effect it has on 
the pins - can't remember if it is just dulling or blunting as well - 
in which case use in a pillow would be equally bad for them.


I suspect that it would be possible to purchase a second roller for 
the travel pillow - do they not use the size of roller that fits into 
a block pillow? - if so, then I would buy and use two rollers 
alternately to even out the wear - doing this has certainly extended 
the life of my block pillow blocks, which I have had for donkey's 
years and not had to replace yet - with no additional padding!


The travel roller pillow I use most is a Finnish one, which the roller 
is made from tightly rolled carpet underlay (the recycled foam type) - 
and is showing no sign of retaining its holes or wearing out, despite 
a large amount of use over the last seven or eight years (I bought it 
the year the OIDFA congress was at Nottingham).




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[lace] Roller pillow

[Jane Partridge]

In message 
, Lorelei 
Halley  writes

I haven't
tried cotton or polyesther batting.  Possibly several layers of cotton quilt
batting would work.  But I would take a pin to the quilt store and test it --
try sticking the pin through several layers of batting to see how it feels.


Cotton batting might work OK, but I can remember the advice against 
using polyester stuffing for pin cushions due to the effect it has on 
the pins - can't remember if it is just dulling or blunting as well - in 
which case use in a pillow would be equally bad for them.


I suspect that it would be possible to purchase a second roller for the 
travel pillow - do they not use the size of roller that fits into a 
block pillow? - if so, then I would buy and use two rollers alternately 
to even out the wear - doing this has certainly extended the life of my 
block pillow blocks, which I have had for donkey's years and not had to 
replace yet - with no additional padding!


The travel roller pillow I use most is a Finnish one, which the roller 
is made from tightly rolled carpet underlay (the recycled foam type) - 
and is showing no sign of retaining its holes or wearing out, despite a 
large amount of use over the last seven or eight years (I bought it the 
year the OIDFA congress was at Nottingham).


--
Jane Partridge

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Re: [lace] Irish linen thread

[Adele Shaak]

Hi Everybody:

*Is* there still Irish linen thread? Last I heard Barbour's was being made in 
Hungary, and I recently bought some 40/3 - from the same supplier who used to 
send me Barbour's - and it came with a label that said "Motilal Dulichand (P) 
Ltd - India"

It's not bad thread but I wouldn't call it Irish ;-)

Adele
North Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)


On 2011-08-15, at 3:18 PM, Lora wrote:

> Would anyone happen to know of a supplier of irish linen thread suitable for 
> Point ground and other fine bobbin laces
> 
> Or a thread available in the uk with similar properties , softness, fineness, 
> smoothness ect?
> 
> I have in the past tried a bokens linen but found it too rough and unevenly 
> spun to work with
> 
> Lora
> In south Ayrshire Scotland, beneath darkening skies

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RE: [lace] Roller pillow

[Dona Bushong]

I just recently completed a roller pillow.  I used a dowel rod for the
center then wrapped 100% wool felt strips around the dowel until it was the
size I wanted.  The 100% wool felt is more expensive than that mixed with
polyester but I think the 100% works better.  I found the wool on sale and
had a coupon to boot so it wasn't too bad.
I've been making lots of yardage lately.  I don't even bother with making
the pricking into a ring.  I keep several prickings at hand and when I'm at
the last repeat on the pricking that's on my pillow, I lay another on top
for that first repeat.  As the roller progresses and the pins come out of
the lace and pricking, the pricking underneath comes out and waits for the
next round. 

Dona in Guam where the seas are calm today.  Might have to get in a dive or
two...

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[lace] Irish linen thread

[Lora]

Would anyone happen to know of a supplier of irish linen thread suitable for 
Point ground and other fine bobbin laces

Or a thread available in the uk with similar properties , softness, fineness, 
smoothness ect?

I have in the past tried a bokens linen but found it too rough and unevenly 
spun to work with

Lora
In south Ayrshire Scotland, beneath darkening skies

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[lace] More information for Atkinson, Illinois Lace Exhibit August 20, 2011

[Chris Brill-Packard]

  
August 20, 2011 will be the opening day of the lace collection of the
Holevoet family as arranged by Art Holevoet.    The Museum is located in
Atkinson Township, next to the Atkinson Township Town Hall at 402 N. State
Street, Atkinson, Illinois, USA.   Address is: at 402 N. State Street,
Atkinson, IL  
Appointments to view the lace after August 20, 2011 are
required.   Please call (309) 936-7117 to set up date/time for
appointment.  
 
The Opening day of the Lace exhibit is Saturday, August 20,
2011.   The museum opens at 9 am and at 10 am the lace event will
begin.     Lace show is from 10 am - 4 pm.   
 
Ladies from the Moline
Belgian Cultural Center will be demonstrating lace making from mid-morning
until early afternoon.   Moline Belgian Cultural Center has a lace
group.   Moline is located approximately 30 miles from Atkinson, Illinois,
USA.  
 
While the large collection of framed lace will remain a part of the
permanent collection, this opening day event is being planned to stimulate
interested in lace and in the museum of ATKINSON Township, Illinois, USA.  
 There are approximately 30 pieces of lace and a display case filled with
lace items that will be on display August 20, 2011 per Mr. Art Volevoet and
will be available to view by appointment after August 20, 2011 – call (309)
936-7117 to arrange appointment for viewing the permanent collection.
 
Art
Holevoet will be pleased to hear from you if you are planning to attend or if
you have questions.  Art Holevoet phone number is: (309) 936-7621.   
 
Chris Brill-Packard
IOLI USA Northern Regional Director
(International Old
Lacers Inc)  
 
In Cleveland, Ohio area where life is good..rain
stopped, a little sunshine, and about 75 degrees warmperfect day!

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Re: [lace] Roller pillow

[Adele Shaak]

Hi Everybody:

>  I have found that woven cotton fabric many layers thick is
> actually quite resistant to pins.  They won't go in far enough to be stable
> and you will bend a lot of them.  I have found that 100% woven wool fabric
> takes pins very well

I want to add that you should use loosely-woven wool fabric. I made one roller 
pillow with loosely-woven cloth - works great. I have another that I made with 
tightly-wrapped melton cloth, and no pin will go into it. It's just too solid.


Adele
North Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)

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Re: [lace] Roller pillow

[Sue Babbs]

I was given two used Swedish pillows, where the rollers were too soft to 
hold the pins. I use a single layer of a foam sheet, cut to size and pinned 
to fit.


http://www.michaels.com/Creatology%E2%84%A2-Foam-Sheets/gc1328,default,pd.html?start=16&cgid=products-generalcrafts-foam

I would guess that you could get this in a craft store in the UK. it costs 
around $1 / sheet here in America. So is a very inexpensive solution, and 
seems to last a long time. I have been many times round the roller and the 
foam sheet is still in good condition (and won't be cheap or difficult to 
replace when I need to do that)


Sue

sueba...@comcast.net

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[lace] Roller pillow

[Lorelei Halley]

Sue
The first thing to consider about recovering your roller is: how does it fit
into the well hole in your pillow?  If you roller sits in a well you won't be
able to add more padding to the roller and still have it fit in the hole.

But if that isn't a problem (if the well is considerably larger than the
existing roller), then to pad the roller you need cloth or padding that takes
pins easily.  I have found that woven cotton fabric many layers thick is
actually quite resistant to pins.  They won't go in far enough to be stable
and you will bend a lot of them.  I have found that 100% woven wool fabric
takes pins very well and is my preferred padding for an area which will take
pins.  Ideally the padding should equal 3/4 of the length of the pins you are
likely to use so that the pins won't go into the styrofoam at all.  I haven't
tried cotton or polyesther batting.  Possibly several layers of cotton quilt
batting would work.  But I would take a pin to the quilt store and test it --
try sticking the pin through several layers of batting to see how it feels.
(The staff might come running to the defense of their batts, so you'll have to
be sneaky.)

The other possibility is that when the styrafoam roller becomes dished and
pitted from use, just discard it and replace it with a thickish dowel wrapped
tightly in wool fabric.  But you will have 6 months to a year of use before
this happens.  My website has a page on making wool pillows with a wool
wrapped dowel roller.
http://lynxlace.com/makeapillow.html

Lorelei Halley

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Re: [lace] Roller pillow

[lacelady]

There are ways to make long-lasting rollers, and ways that are shorter lived.  
The best rollers, and long lasting, are made from wool fabric, rolled around a 
supporting dowel.  They need to be just deeper than the length of pins to be 
used.  Thick sections of cotton fabric would be hard to pin into.

To temporarily extend the life of a foam roller, a few rounds of wool on top of 
the foam should add a bit of time.  The pins wouldn't go as far into the foam 
so it would take longer to break down.  However, I think it's more time 
effective to make a good roller from the start.

The super-dense foam used in the UK will last longer than standard styrofoam 
but not as long as ethafoam used in the USA.  However, in the USA I've found 
some rollers being made from the foam used for swimming pool toys (pool 
noodles).  These don't last any time at all.  They are nice for a one-time 
project, but not for repeated use.  Test the wool by making a thick pad and 
poking it with a pin.  The pin should go in easily but be held firmly in place, 
no wiggling.

It's possible to disassemble a roller carefully, remove the outside covering, 
and replace the inside material.  I did it on one roller.  I just cut strips 
from an old wool jacket.  I never thought about felting it.  It should be a 
tightly woven wool fabric. Shrinking the wool would make it denser. As long as 
the wool moths stay out of it, a wool roller should last a life time.

Polystyrene develops a hole whenever a pin goes in it.  Hundreds of pinholes 
will break down the surface of the foam.  One company who makes foam pillows 
will put a layer of dust of some sort on the top of the foam, under the cover.  
The theory is that the dust will filter into the holes and fill them up, at 
least for a while...thus extending the life of the pillow.  The fact of life 
with polystyrene is that it has a limited working life.  When the working 
surface gets broken down, the pillow needs replaced.  There's no way to 
refurbish it.

(I wish the ethafoam pillows were available to everyone.  I've been using one 
for 18 years and it's still going strong.  With ethafoam, the holes close up 
when the pin is pulled out.  It takes many years to wear down the working 
surface.)

Life of the roller could be extended a bit by working patterns that have fewer 
pinholes (Torchon rather than Bucks) so there are fewer holes made per square 
inch.  Also, use different areas of the roller, not always just the very center 
section.  This is a very temporary solution.

Have fun with your travel pillow.
Alice

- Original Message -
From: "Sue" 

I have read in the past of the various ways that people help preserve the
surface of a roller pillow... this one I would suspect is polystyrene with
very light wood ends.  
I have lots of white cotton fabric I could cut a strip off and wrap around if
that would help.  What depth would I need to use save the polystyrene from
going soft which is what has happened with my block pillows.  I think I
remember reading about shrinking the fabric first?

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Re: [lace] picots

[Clay Blackwell]

I like the expression "gardening" too.  The Belgian teachers and 
lacemakers I know use this to refer to the tidying up we do of our lace 
before it is bound or framed (especially framed, where it will never 
change - theoretically).  I added the "extreme" because it really was a 
tedious process, but worth the effort!


On 8/15/2011 12:27 PM, Sue wrote:


I love your expression of extreme gardening:-)
Sue T


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Re: [lace] picots

[Sue]

Thank you Clay,
I might be tempted in certain circumstances to try this.   On this occasion 
I am managing to arrange the lace so its not seen and its for me, so no 
matter, but I would hate to get a piece almost complete and get a bunny ears 
to spoil it.   There is absolutely no guarantee that I wont do exactly the 
same if I made a replacement bit of lace.

I love your expression of extreme gardening:-)
Sue T

Sue, what I'm about to say is not for the faint-hearted!  I worked a piece 
some time ago which was very special (can't remember which one it was 
now!), and when I took the pins out, there was a "bunny ear"!!  I was 
devastated.  But I got out my magnifier and a needle, and I coaxed the 
extra thread back through the twists in the stitch until it was all the 
way back into the passives.  I made sure it was on the "back" side of the 
lace, and just left it there.  It seems to me it was a framed piece, so no 
one (even me!) is the wiser which piece it is!!


Clay

On 8/15/2011 7:11 AM, Sue wrote:
That is the type I do, but have never heard of putting the pin away from 
the pattern.  I will definately have to try this.  the way I learned and 
have been working is as you describe except straight into the pinhole


I have worked 3 small strips and managed to get one long loop on one of 
them and 2 on another which is really annoying.   I think the spray of 
starch has helped reduce the impact of one of them.

Sue T
Dorset UK


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Re: [lace] How do you sit?

[bev walker]

Yes, I often stand at the lace pillow. I have a wide ledge at a window
that is perfect for a D-shaped pillow, the height of the ledge plus
the depth of the pillow are perfect. If I open the window, a round
flat pillow can be accommodated though I take care with the bobbins at
the outside edge lest any of them whiffle off their tethers to the
ground below. At other times I've put the pillow on a box on a table
to stand to work. Yes, some jiggering with height is required and I
like to be able to look down to the lace at a comfortable sight
distance using reading glasses.

I'm basically lazy, standing at the pillow is easier  than getting up
and down - and I can walk away any time readily. I sit a lot at the
computer, prefer to avoid more sitting for lace. Lately I've been
knitting (lace) and I work that standing at my window ledge too.

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 4:13 AM, Hazel Smith
 wrote:
> Hello all
>
> Has anyone else tried making lace standing up?
-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west
coast of Canada

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Re: [lace] fungi seen by Dona Bushong

[David C COLLYER]

At 06:46 AM 15/08/2011, jvik...@sover.net wrote:

Hi All,  Since David Collyer is home I will re-send this e-mail that
Dona wrote a few weeks ago.  I know David made this fungi in lace but I
can't remember where it might be posted! As I recall it was for a show
with an interesting name.


Thanks Jane,
I knew it as the Stinkhorn fungus of Australia's Northern Territory 
and the exhibition was called Botanica Erotica. It now adorns a bedroom wall!!


David in Ballarat

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[lace] Lace seller on ebay

[David C COLLYER]

Dear Friends,
Was directed to this lace seller on ebay

vintageblessings

She/he's got some nice stuff

David in Ballarat

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Re: [lace] How do you sit?

[Adele Shaak]

Hi Everybody:

> Has anyone else tried making lace standing up? When we were in temporary 
> accommodation last year the only flat surface I had available was at kitchen 
> worktop height which meant me standing as if I was at the kitchen sink. I 
> found I quite liked it so now I use a chest of drawers in my "work room" 
> (a.k.a. spare bedroom!) instead of a pillow-stand. I think I'd still get neck 
> trouble if I stood at it too long but I find my knees and feet tell me it's 
> time to move around after 30-40 minutes. 

Yes! Not all the time, and I do sit down in classes, but I stand up a lot. I 
should mention that for about six years I've had a job that required me to 
stand for most of the day, and I walk a lot, so now I can cheerfully stand all 
day without any problems. Seven years ago I'd have dropped after two hours, 
which just shows what you can get used to.

I stand up because I have some weird thing wrong with my leg, and if I sit too 
long I start getting electric shocks inside my ankle. The medical profession 
has no idea why this is happening, but if I stand up it's not a problem, so I 
just stand up. I like to have the pillow at just about the right height so that 
when my forearms are comfortably bent, so sometimes that means jiggering around 
with telephone books to get the right height.

I once had a lacemaking teacher who stood up a lot, too.

Adele
North Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)

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Re: [lace] How do you sit?

[David C COLLYER]

At 01:45 AM 15/08/2011, Clay Blackwell wrote:
David, having seen the videos of you conducting, I'm going to go out 
on a limb here and suggest that all of that arm exercise you get is 
actually very good for your back muscles as well, and your back is 
strong enough to handle the stress you put on it while making lace!


Clay - while that may well be true, I have to add that in all my 
years of nursing, with all that heavy lifting, I never once had a 
twinge in my back. Guess I must just be blessed with a strong one.

David

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Re: [lace] picots

[Clay Blackwell]

Oops!  I hit the button too quickly!  I meant to say that this is what 
our Belgian friends would call Extreme "Gardening"!!


And I apologize for not trimming the  history of this thread

Clay

On 8/15/2011 10:11 AM, Clay Blackwell wrote:
Sue, what I'm about to say is not for the faint-hearted!  I worked a 
piece some time ago which was very special (can't remember which one 
it was now!), and when I took the pins out, there was a "bunny ear"!!  
I was devastated.  But I got out my magnifier and a needle, and I 
coaxed the extra thread back through the twists in the stitch until it 
was all the way back into the passives.  I made sure it was on the 
"back" side of the lace, and just left it there.  It seems to me it 
was a framed piece, so no one (even me!) is the wiser which piece it is!!


Clay



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Re: [lace] picots

[Clay Blackwell]

Sue, what I'm about to say is not for the faint-hearted!  I worked a 
piece some time ago which was very special (can't remember which one it 
was now!), and when I took the pins out, there was a "bunny ear"!!  I 
was devastated.  But I got out my magnifier and a needle, and I coaxed 
the extra thread back through the twists in the stitch until it was all 
the way back into the passives.  I made sure it was on the "back" side 
of the lace, and just left it there.  It seems to me it was a framed 
piece, so no one (even me!) is the wiser which piece it is!!


Clay

On 8/15/2011 7:11 AM, Sue wrote:
That is the type I do, but have never heard of putting the pin away 
from the pattern.  I will definately have to try this.  the way I 
learned and have been working is as you describe except straight into 
the pinhole


I have worked 3 small strips and managed to get one long loop on one 
of them and 2 on another which is really annoying.   I think the spray 
of starch has helped reduce the impact of one of them.

Sue T
Dorset UK

This picot has two threads twisted, then the bottom thread is pinned 
in place with pin in fingers, but the top thread is flipped around 
the pin. The cure to not catching a second pin when 'flipping' is 
simple.  When looping the first pin, pin it an inch outside your 
pattern.  Flip the second thread around (no other pins near it).  
Then carefully lift the pin with the threads around it and move it 
gently into it's proper place. Keep the tension mild  until final 
pinning, then tension the threads, make the final twist(s).  Wow!!  
Perfect picot and NO extra pins.

Does this help?

Alice in Oregon --  where we went to the coast for lunch today with 
the church's Lunch Bunch.  Blue sky, no wind, no rain.  Beautiful!


- Original Message -
From: "Sue" 
I have just made a third small strip of lace with picots around the 
outside
edge, each one getting tidier than the last of course.  I dont do 
them very
often but I have found that on the first strip I have caught one of 
the loops
over two pins instead of one, closer to the end than the beginning of 
the

lace.



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Re: [lace] picots

[Maureen Bromley]

I learnt this method from Christine Springett quite a number of years ago.

Maureen
E Yorks UK 


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Re: [lace] Roller pillow

[Sue]

Thank you Malvary and Joepie,
yesterday I mentioned to my husband that I have some woollen offcuts from a 
living history skirt I made a few years ago, so I am not as daft as I 
thought, .  So I will shrink that (if you saw the skirt you would know 
what I mean, even on what was a gentle wash:-)


I might also be tempted in the near future to make up my own roller to fit 
into the same space as this original, so that once I have killed it off I 
can swap over and use the more robust version.   I will go searching my DH 
stash of scraps of wood and see if he has something suitable, or else send 
him so I dont get lost in the pile.
I did remember Davids comments recently about having a bit of a loop in the 
pattern so the pins go into a slightly different place.


I am hoping to get used to it enough and have reworked my original pattern I 
did for the arachne swap 3 years ago into a long strip rather than the 
original rectangle and then I can take it on my travels.
Well I had better go and do our shopping, I cant play with my new toy 
because they sent the one for Austalia rather than GB, !!

Sue T off to shop and sulk


Sue T asked "I have read in the past of the various ways that people help 
preserve the surface of a roller pillow..."


I think that the best thing to cover your roller with is wool fabric (old 
blanket or clothes cut into strips and wound as tightly as possible round 
the styrofoam centre.   One thing you will have to consider is how much 
space do you have so that the roller will still fit into its space, 
probably not enough to fully protect the styrofoam centre.



Malvary in Ottawa (the Nation's capital) where we have a grey day with 
more thunderboomers forecast for later.


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[lace] Sitting comfortably

[Miriam Gidron]

Hi Shirley,

 

I also use my office chair which I can adjust for height, but I don't always
get the correct setting. I have the pillow stand I bought  from you ages ago
and I have to adjust the chair to the height of the stand.

 

This time I just over did.

 

Miriam

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[lace] typing/secretarial chairs, map drawers & lace in fashion

[hottleco]

Hello All!  The adjustable typing/secretarial chair suggestion is a good one.  
The problem is that "new" chairs (available at big box office supply stores) 
are mostly expensive or may not be ergonomically superior (plastic body with 
too-cushy seats) to other types of chairs.  Another choice is an "old 
fashioned" metal one that can be purchased cheaply but they are heavy & tend to 
mar floors/mat carpets because they have 4 rollers instead of 5 to disburse the 
weight.  When we get together in Cortland, OH, there is one old fashioned chair 
that is everyone's favorite so it's a rush to see who grabs it first!  While 
you are at the "used office furniture depot", check out the map/drafting 
cabinets.  Large, shallow drawers were used by lots of companies/government 
offices to store plat maps, blueprints etc. etc.  Back when Shay Pendray had 
her needlepoint shop in Dearborn, MI, she stored reels of Japanese silk in 
them.  Check out the Julianna dress at www.lillypulitzer.com.  It so!
 rt of looks like an oversized pricking.  Of course, machine-made lace is 
always featured on some items in this line.  Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Erie, PA 
USA where we had 2" of rain last night, glub, glub 

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Re: [lace] How do you sit?

[Agnes Boddington]

Having just done 2 days of demonstrating at a country festival, my back is 
shot!

I used one of the available folding wooden-slat chairs, and a tablemate.
It was so uncomfortable that I had to get up and walk around quite a lot, by 
Sat eve a muscle from my right shoulder to the small of my back

was in constant cramp mode.
Yesterday, I took my chair wedge and a foldable chair from home, and felt a 
lot better, though the muscle still hurts.
Normally at home I use either my adjustable lace stand, or standard table 
when Sue D is here to make lace with me.

We both use a chair wedge, and they do help to keep your back straighter.
I have to be careful with my back and neck anyway, as both suffered 
permanent damage when I was hit by a car when I was 14, and I have a good 
massage

every three weeks which keeps the worst at bay.

Apart from that, I also caught a cold!
Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK

- Original Message - >>Agnes & I would probably say take up 
smoking (LOL)   so we

then go and have a cigarette outside the hall!!


Oh so that's why I never have any back problems, despite leaning forward 
all of the time

LOL
David in Ballarat


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Re: [lace] Roller pillow

[Malvary Cole]

Sue T asked "I have read in the past of the various ways that people help 
preserve the surface of a roller pillow..."


I think that the best thing to cover your roller with is wool fabric (old 
blanket or clothes cut into strips and wound as tightly as possible round 
the styrofoam centre.   One thing you will have to consider is how much 
space do you have so that the roller will still fit into its space, probably 
not enough to fully protect the styrofoam centre.


I would mention that when you create your pattern do make sure it is longer 
than the circumference of the roller so that you have a loop.  This means 
that as you are working and unpin from the back and pin at the front the 
pins go into the pillow at a different place each time.  I have been using 
my travel pillow for a long time and the weakest part is where the large 
holding pins go into the roller.  There is a definite groove at each side 
but the working surface is still holding the pins quite nicely and I didn't 
do anything to the roller by way of padding.


Malvary in Ottawa (the Nation's capital) where we have a grey day with more 
thunderboomers forecast for later. 


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Re: [lace] picots

[Clay Blackwell]

Alice, you're Brilliant!  I had never thought to pin outside the 
pattern, but this would probably eliminate those dreaded "bunny ears"!!


Clay

On 8/14/2011 9:50 PM, lacel...@frontier.com wrote:

 This picot has two threads twisted, then the bottom thread is pinned 
in place with pin in fingers, but the top thread is flipped around the 
pin. The cure to not catching a second pin when 'flipping' is simple. 
When looping the first pin, pin it an inch outside your pattern. Flip 
the second thread around (no other pins near it). Then carefully lift 
the pin with the threads around it and move it gently into it's proper 
place. Keep the tension mild until final pinning, then tension the 
threads, make the final twist(s). Wow!! Perfect picot and NO extra pins.


 Does this help?

Alice in Oregon -- where we went to the coast for lunch today with the 
church's Lunch Bunch. Blue sky, no wind, no rain. Beautiful!


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Re: [lace] sitting comfortably to make lace

[Clay Blackwell]

Hi Shirley!

I also use an office chair.  But it turns out that just *any* adjustable 
office chair won't do.  I initially used the chair which is in my study 
and in front of my computer.  But this one caused lots of back-aches 
when making lace.  I began looking for something specifically for lace, 
and found it at a used office-funiture store!  I got it for practically 
nothing, which is even better!  This chair has a firm seat and a back 
that can be adjusted to support the small of my back.  It can also be 
adjusted so that the seat is the perfect depth - not too deep.  The 
height is adjustable, and once I had things set up, I realized that as 
an office chair it would have been awfully uncomfortable!  But it is 
perfect for lacemaking, because it forces me to sit correctly.  Because 
I'm relatively tall, it is sometimes hard to find chairs that can be 
adjusted high enough, but this one does.  My pillow stand adjusts to a 
higher height as well, and now the set-up is more comfortable than it 
has ever been.


Clay



Hi,
 / I use my wheeled office chair with adjustable height, angle and 
back support.  With my feet firmly planted on the ground (I suffer 
from short legs)  I can then pull my pillow stand close and don't seem 
to have any problems with my back.  /


Shirley T.  -  Adelaide, South Australia with rain today but not cold 
i.e. 18C max.




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Re: [lace] picots

[Angelalace]

Hi
I have always used Alice's method to make my picots.  I really struggled to 
make the threads 'snap' together when I first started Bucks Point, and this 
method was suggested to me by Pam Nottingham.
It was supposed to be until I got the hang of it but I never changed back!


Regards Angela




On 15 Aug 2011, at 12:11, "Sue"  wrote:

> That is the type I do, but have never heard of putting the pin away from the 
> pattern.  I will definately have to try this.  the way I learned and have 
> been working is as you describe except straight into the pinhole
> 
> I have worked 3 small strips and managed to get one long loop on one of them 
> and 2 on another which is really annoying.   I think the spray of starch has 
> helped reduce the impact of one of them.
> Sue T
> Dorset UK
> 
>> This picot has two threads twisted, then the bottom thread is pinned in 
>> place with pin in fingers, but the top thread is flipped around the pin. The 
>> cure to not catching a second pin when 'flipping' is simple.  When looping 
>> the first pin, pin it an inch outside your pattern.  Flip the second thread 
>> around (no other pins near it).  Then carefully lift the pin with the 
>> threads around it and move it gently into it's proper place. Keep the 
>> tension mild  until final pinning, then tension the threads, make the final 
>> twist(s).  Wow!!  Perfect picot and NO extra pins.
>> Does this help?
>> 
>> Alice in Oregon --  where we went to the coast for lunch today with the 
>> church's Lunch Bunch.  Blue sky, no wind, no rain.  Beautiful!
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Sue" 
>> I have just made a third small strip of lace with picots around the outside
>> edge, each one getting tidier than the last of course.  I dont do them very
>> often but I have found that on the first strip I have caught one of the loops
>> over two pins instead of one, closer to the end than the beginning of the
>> lace.
> 
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[lace] Roller pillow

[Sue]

We fairly recently bought a Travel pillow (like a little shopping bag) with a
roller pillow inside.As I am new to roller pillows I have a small and
simple pattern neading about 8 pairs of bobbins and which doesn't go all the
way around the roller to put onto it to get used to the change before I set
something reasonable up on it.
I have read in the past of the various ways that people help preserve the
surface of a roller pillow... this one I would suspect is polystyrene with
very light wood ends.I went into the archives to read but am not sure that
I was reading about the right coverings.   Lots seems to have been made from
scratch using a coffee tin or something and covered with layers of wool or
cotton.
I have lots of white cotton fabric I could cut a strip off and wrap around if
that would help.  What depth would I need to use save the polystyrene from
going soft which is what has happened with my block pillows.  I think I
remember reading about shrinking the fabric first?
Can someone point me in the direction of specific text about this.
Many thanks Sue.
Sue T
Dorset UK
www.hurwitzend.co.uk

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Re: [lace] How do you sit?

[Hazel Smith]

Hello all

Has anyone else tried making lace standing up? When we were in temporary 
accommodation last year the only flat surface I had available was at kitchen 
worktop height which meant me standing as if I was at the kitchen sink. I found 
I quite liked it so now I use a chest of drawers in my "work room" (a.k.a. 
spare bedroom!) instead of a pillow-stand. I think I'd still get neck trouble 
if I stood at it too long but I find my knees and feet tell me it's time to 
move around after 30-40 minutes. A bonus is that you burn more calories 
standing up! 
I realise this wouldn't work for some of you but maybe some of the younger 
fitter ones. Just my two-penn'orth.

Hazel Smith (now with a real home at last in Wiltshire, UK)

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Re: [lace] picots

[Sue]

That is the type I do, but have never heard of putting the pin away from the 
pattern.  I will definately have to try this.  the way I learned and have 
been working is as you describe except straight into the pinhole


I have worked 3 small strips and managed to get one long loop on one of them 
and 2 on another which is really annoying.   I think the spray of starch has 
helped reduce the impact of one of them.

Sue T
Dorset UK

This picot has two threads twisted, then the bottom thread is pinned in 
place with pin in fingers, but the top thread is flipped around the pin. 
The cure to not catching a second pin when 'flipping' is simple.  When 
looping the first pin, pin it an inch outside your pattern.  Flip the 
second thread around (no other pins near it).  Then carefully lift the pin 
with the threads around it and move it gently into it's proper place. 
Keep the tension mild  until final pinning, then tension the threads, make 
the final twist(s).  Wow!!  Perfect picot and NO extra pins.

Does this help?

Alice in Oregon --  where we went to the coast for lunch today with the 
church's Lunch Bunch.  Blue sky, no wind, no rain.  Beautiful!


- Original Message -
From: "Sue" 
I have just made a third small strip of lace with picots around the 
outside
edge, each one getting tidier than the last of course.  I dont do them 
very
often but I have found that on the first strip I have caught one of the 
loops

over two pins instead of one, closer to the end than the beginning of the
lace.



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Re: [lace] How do you sit?

[Ilse Depaepe]

Thank you everyone for the great advise.  I'll try some positions out and
take breaks but I do tend to verget about time especially when I'm starting
something new.

Ilse

2011/8/14 Clay Blackwell 

> David, having seen the videos of you conducting, I'm going to go out on a
> limb here and suggest that all of that arm exercise you get is actually very
> good for your back muscles as well, and your back is strong enough to handle
> the stress you put on it while making lace!
>
> Clay
>
>
> On 8/14/2011 10:30 AM, David C COLLYER wrote:
>
>>
>>> Agnes & I would probably say take up smoking (LOL)   so we
>>> then go and have a cigarette outside the hall!!
>>>
>>
>> Oh so that's why I never have any back problems, despite leaning forward
>> all of the time
>> LOL
>> David in Ballarat
>>
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>>
>>
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>



-- 
KTBSPA

Ilse D.

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Re: [lace] How do you store your prickings?

[Sue]

I have to say that the storage of my prickings is not the best way so I 
spend quite a bit of time hunting for certain things but you email has made 
me think about it.
Ever since I began making lace 10 years ago I have kept note books, one just 
has each piece with a number going up from number 1 to the current 482 or 
something.  I write the name of the piece and/or the type and sometimes the 
colour in a one liner.   Other books of which I now have 6, I write the same 
number and name etc, how many prs of bobbins used, what type of thread.  Any 
particular notes about the piece that is relevant.  Sometimes the name of 
who it was given to and also if I made an error, if I liked the piece or 
not.  That bit is the easy record keeping and then I have lots of patterns 
stored in A4 plastic sleeves and into folders which could do with being 
differently arranged, but lack of space stops that:-)
But using the book method if I were Jenny I could then go on to use the same 
numbering sequence and note the storage place.   Box files with letters in 
the type of Lace or something like that.  When making up a pattern I often 
try printing out at different sizes and keep the paper sheets together as 
well, so sometimes going through the files allows me a fresh look at what 
should stay and what should go.   Of course I have made up a second pricking 
when I couldn't find the original :-) which obviously turns up soon after 
that:-)  But its rare for me to throw a pricking away,

Sue T


but how to store it so I can find it later?

Right now some are in plastic sleeve files - sorted on type ; length,
cornered, christmas, mat etc some  with my teaching notes some in the 
stack

on the bookshelf some ... It is just not *organised* so when I am hunting
for a pricking I can never find it until I remake the darn thing.

putting a numbered sticker on each pricking and storing them numerically 
in

bunches of 20 in suspension files in the filing cabinet - marking the
original source (book, mag) in pencil with the pricking number
Hugs
Jenny Brandis
Kununurra, Western Australia


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Re: [lace] Sitting comfortably

[Sue]

This has been a very good conversation and interesting to read all the 
replies.   Personal home space or lack of, plus age and any personal 
disability also has a huge amount to how and sometimes if we can make lace.
So I also totally agree with the several comments of having to find out what 
works for yourself, but hearing what others do or dont do might very well 
help make small adjustments to what we do.

Sue T Dorset UK



One thing that has to be considered is if there are any personal physical 
considerations to take into account which make one way of sitting 
uncomfortable/comfortable.



if I sit on an upright chair for
too long I have difficulty getting up and walking. At home I sit in a 
higher than normal armchair made slightly higher with bed pillows under 
the seat cushion. Another pillow rests against the chair under my calves 
and knees and cushions at my back for support.


The kneeling chair would be totally useless for me , kneeling is not 
advised and, in any case, it's like kneeling on a walnut. Very 
uncomfortable.

You just have to find out what works for you.

Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK


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Re: [lace] Sitting comfortably

[Lora]

One thing I'd suggest to counteract the effects of leaning forward would be to 
try and keep your tailbone tucked to neutral ( your pelvis is level rather than 
tilted)
And to stretch your spine gently in the other direction, by rotating your 
shoulders down and back, and arching  starting with the lower back and 
progressively moving up the spine to deepen the bend
The key is GENTLY, do not go far enough to feel any pain, only a mild stretch 
(think stretching out after waking up in the morning) we're not attempting to 
increase flexibility here, just to realign and counteract the forward bending

Hope that is of use to someone

Lora.
In south Ayrshire scotland, where it's both rainy and warm

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[lace] How do you sit

[Miriam Gidron]

Hi 

 

I had my share of bad experience about sitting correctly , lately.

 

I was concentrating hard on a Bucks Point pattern, didn't realize how the
time is running away. , so didn't get up to make me something to dring. I
was sitting at the endge of the chair, pulled my pillow close tpo me but
bend over it more than usual because I didn't see th e pin holes. I used my
magnifier but this didn't make the bending any easier. Finally my neck gave
in. I have a stiff neck now for ovber 2 weeks. It is getting better but I'm
still giving my pillow some vacation.  That is when I also realized that the
problem wasn't only sitting correctly but that I need new glasses.

Hope to get back soon to my pillow.

 

 

Miriam

In Arad Israel

 

L

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[lace] Sitting comfortably

[Jean Nathan]

One thing that has to be considered is if there are any personal physical 
considerations to take into account which make one way of sitting 
uncomfortable/comfortable.


As Eve Morton has seen on many occasions, if I sit on an upright chair for 
too long I have difficulty getting up and walking. At home I sit in a higher 
than normal armchair made slightly higher with bed pillows under the seat 
cushion. Another pillow rests against the chair under my calves and knees 
and cushions at my back for support.


The kneeling chair would be totally useless for me because I have had a 
whole knee replacement, and when you've had that, kneeling is not advised 
and, in any case, it's like kneeling on a walnut. Very uncomfortable.


The height, angle and size of the pillow is something else to consider. I 
can't reach across a flat pillow which is more than 20 inches diameter and I 
like a flat pillow sloping slightly into my midriff. Anything really flat or 
too large really makes my back ache.


You just have to find out what works for you.

Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK

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