RE: [lace] Pattern lifting
Dear Karisse, Clay and others, Since you're working with Midlands bobbins, you're in luck! The easiest way to keep your pillow tidy is to go out to your nearest craft or knitting shop and buy a bunch of stitch holders There's an even better way which works in a similar fashion. Got to your supermarket and buy a bunch of those very cheap plastic coat-hangers (we can get about 10 for $1 here). Then with wire cutters or pliers, simply cut each one in half, throwing away the hook bit. Now bend the cut end to make each half into a giant safety pin shape. Each of these will hold about 30 bobbins. Right now I'm working on a large Chantilly edging and have about 150 pairs on the go - not quite all hung in yet - but I already have a stack of 7 of these bobbin holders going. One further VERY IMPORTANT hint. When you load up a pin with the 30 or so bobbins, before you drag it around to one side, place a large hat pin or divider pin about an inch from the edge of your work at a 45 degree angle downwards from it. This way there is not undue tension forced upon the end pins and it also prevents those hundreds of threads becoming tangled in your work. Love David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
re: [lace] pattern lifting
Hi everyon I have had trouble with the lace lifting, but not the pattern lifting except when placing a flat card on a curved (i.e. cookie) pillow top - there are a couple of things I usually do, might be worth considering: I use a workcloth with a hole cut in the middle, to place the bobbins through for all the but patterns with 'lots' of pairs - the cloth can be pinned firmly in place and this would keep the pattern flat too. I now seldom use a pattern on card - most often I photocopy the pattern onto plain paper and that becomes the pricking - even and especially for Buckspoint - no prepricking necessary, and I'm going to toss the pricking afterwards anyway - and the paper should conform to whatever pillow surface (i.e. lie flat). I make all sorts of laces, all sorts of styles, all sorts of experimenting (and master of none, LOL) happy lacing bye for now Bev in Sooke BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Pattern lifting
Hi David - I'm assuming, when you say plastic, that you're talking about a wire hanger that is encased in plastic? Clay Clay Blackwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Original Message] From: David Collyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] There's an even better way which works in a similar fashion. Got to your supermarket and buy a bunch of those very cheap plastic coat-hangers (we can get about 10 for $1 here). Then with wire cutters or pliers, simply cut each one in half, throwing away the hook bit. Now bend the cut end to make each half into a giant safety pin shape. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pattern lifting -- pinning methods
At 08:44 AM 7/22/2004, you wrote: . As I have worked down the pattern the card stock worked up off the pillow but the lace itself did not work up the pins. I slanted the edge pins to the side and back so the lace was held tight against the pricking and did not move up the pins. But the pricking card itself moved up the pins. Hi, I've been gone for 5 days so am a bit behind in my email reading -- and reading as fast as I can to catch up. I just had to speak up on this subject. During the various classes I've had over the years, I've been shown two ways of pinning down a pattern that have not been mentioned here. The first method takes two pins. The first pin is pushed through the pattern into the pillow -- halfway down. Then the top half is bent over so the head is on the cloth pillow cover. The second pin is put perpendicularly to the first with it dipping into and out of the cover on one side of the first pin, then over the pin, and into the cloth cover on the other side of the pin. The second pin keeps the first pin from being able to lift up. A pattern pinned with 4-6-8 of these pin duos will not lift. Method two takes one pin but needs a slightly flexible pillow cover. Dip the point of the pin in and out of the pillow cover right next to the pattern, and then pin in the edge of the pattern, pushed all the way down. Do this all around the pattern. Thus the pattern is caught under a little fold of the pillow fabric and will keep the pattern from being able to lift. Happy lacing, Alice in Oregon -- where we are roasting with the rest of the west coast USA. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pattern lifting
At 1:05 AM +0100 7/23/04, Jane Partridge wrote: In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Karisse Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes But the pricking card itself moved up the pins. This actually is the problem of having so many pins close to each other - in Torchon, where the pins are more widely spaced, the problem is one of the lace rising up the pins. With Bucks, the card rises off the pillow. I was taught (by Jennifer Ford) to correct this by making sure that the edge pins are slanted correctly (slightly out, slightly back) and the pins between are all absolutely vertical. This is quite often difficult to achieve when you are working on a flat pillow, especially as you tend to work with it on a slope. The pins must be perpendicular to the pillow, so if the back edge is raised, it means placing them towards you, rather than away! Once you start working in this way, you will find that the card will settle back to the pillow again, even if you have a section that remains slightly raised. I seem to have a different problem, that of the lace moving up the pins when I do Bucks point. My pricking stays flat (working on a 24 cookie pillow currently), but the lace has lifted maybe 4-5 millimeters (a bit less than 1/4 inch) off the surface of the pricking. I do place the edge pins as described by Jane, and I think my middle forest of pins are fairly vertical, and yet the lace rises up! Despite this, I have just last night completed working all the pins in my Bucks point fan, started in Louise Colgan's class at last year's IOLI convention. I may try to get it mounted this weekend. I am so excited to have finished this huge project, and to have completed it before this year's convention! -- Mary, in Baltimore, MD [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pattern lifting
I seem to have a different problem, that of the lace moving up the pins when I do Bucks point. My pricking stays flat (working on a 24 cookie pillow currently), but the lace has lifted maybe 4-5 millimeters (a bit less than 1/4 inch) off the surface of the pricking. I do place the edge pins as described by Jane, and I think my middle forest of pins are fairly vertical, and yet the lace rises up! I'm assuming this is a fairly wide piece and that you have bobbins stacked either side. If so, I find a trick taught by Ulrike Loehr helpful. At either side of the lace, next to the furthest worked edge pin, place a large pin (eg hatpin, divider pin) angled at about 45 degrees. The point of the pin goes in the pricking card about 1/4inch or so from the sloping edge pin. The pin lies parallel to the edge of the lace, with the head of the pin away from the worked lace. I am trying to draw a diagram, and hope that it comes through intelligibly! | Lace| | Lace| | Lace| | Lace| . | Lace| . | | | | | | | | HeadHead of pin of pin The thread from each bobbin is then taken under this angled pin as the bobbin goes out to the stack. Obviously the large pin has to be moved as the lace grows. Hope this makes sense! Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Pattern lifting
Have you pinned down the pricking? When I pin down the corners (and longer sides, if necessary), the pattern can't ride up because the pins are holding it down. They're pushed all the way down flush with the pillow, so the threads won't catch on them. Robin P. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com/ -Original Message- I have worked many yards of buckspoint lace on roller pillows and not had the problem of the pricking card coming up from the pillow. But when I work a pattern on a cookie type pillow I have this problem. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Pattern lifting
Hi Karisse! I've not worked with 300 bobbins at a time, but I can tell you how to tame your bobbins when you have more than can be accomodated at one time on your pillow... Since you're working with Midlands bobbins, you're in luck! The easiest way to keep your pillow tidy is to go out to your nearest craft or knitting shop and buy a bunch of stitch holders used in knitting to hold knitting stitches when you take the knitting off the needle. They look like very large safety pins, and will accomodate 8 - 10 pairs of bobbins when they are run through the spangles. When you gather up your bobbins like this, the bundles can be stacked on top of each other on one side of the pillow or the other, leaving plenty of space in the center for the bobbins you're working. To figure out how many of these holders you need, count the bobbins on your pillow and divide by 16... for 150 bobbins, I'd buy ten. You can always buy more as you tackle wider projects. For projects where you choose to use Thumpers, or continental bobbins which don't have spangles, most lace vendors carry a bobbin holder that is wood and has an elastic cord that holds the bobbins in place - and in order. They're more expensive than the knitting stitch holders, but the knitting stitch holders just don't work with bobbins that don't have spangles. This is also a wonderful way to prepare your pillow for moving it - for example, to a class or demonstration. After the bobbins are all bundled, scoot the bundles up a tad to take the tension off the threads, and then secure the bundles to the pillow with a cover cloth and/or elastic strip. It will only take a few minutes to have your pillow back in working shape when you get to your destination. Hope this all makes sense!! Clay Blackwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Original Message] From: Karisse Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 7/22/2004 11:45:12 AM Subject: [lace] Pattern lifting My dear friends I am so glad you are there to correct and inform. I am working on a rectangle bucks point pattern that is about 4X6 inches. I have it on a relatively flat cookie pillow. I didn't have any wrinkles in the pattern to pin out on the edges when I put the pattern on the pillow. As I have worked down the pattern the card stock worked up off the pillow but the lace itself did not work up the pins. I slanted the edge pins to the side and back so the lace was held tight against the pricking and did not move up the pins. But the pricking card itself moved up the pins. I was wondering if a pattern like this was worked on a bolster pillow, if the pricking card would stay on the bolster pillow. I have worked many yards of buckspoint lace on roller pillows and not had the problem of the pricking card coming up from the pillow. But when I work a pattern on a cookie type pillow I have this problem. I can't see how one would take care of all the bobbins on a bolster pillow when you are working a large pattern like this that uses so many pairs of bobbins. I have midland spangled bobbins because I like to use them with my roller pillows and my cookie pillows to do bucks point but if I went to using a huge bolster pillow to make this wide lace what do I do with the 300 to 400 bobbins while I am working with the 10 to 20? How did they keep the bobbins from all coming down in front? Did they wrap the extra bobbins in cover clothes and pin them to the side? Did they tie them together and pin them to the side? Has anyone worked a pattern wider than 4 inches and used more than 300 bobbins on a bolster pillow? Thanks for your help and your ideas. And I think I am bonkers too just to think about making some lace like this. OK, bucks thumper is what I meant. Thanks for the smile. I have Christine Springettes book on Fine Buckinghamshire Point lace patterns and I am thinking about making some of the lace in this book but I don't want to fight the patterns coming off the pillow and so I was wondering if I would have to make a huge bolster pillow like I have seen in some pictures of ladies making point lace. Karisse Killeen, Tx where the heat and humidity are making me a litttle bonkers - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pattern lifting
Another way to secure your pattern For each corner of your pattern, run thread through a small hole in the corner, then out to a pin somewhere at the edge of your pillow so that the corner is held flat. Repeat several times from the pattern corner to the pin and back again for each corner. Tie the beginning end and the bitter end together so the corner mooring is secure. Bobbins don't catch on the thread mooring like they do on pins, and the tension of the mooring threads holds the corners tight and the pattern down next to the pillow. Mooring the first corner is tricky, but it gets easier as each corner is tied down to the edge of the pillow (keep trying!). If this makes absolutely no sense, I can draw a picture and post it on my website. Let me know! I really do want to get this idea across because I think it's just the neatest way to keep a pricking in its place. Sally Schoenberg Anchorage Alaska - Original Message - From: Panza, Robin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Arachne (E-mail) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2004 7:56 AM Subject: RE: [lace] Pattern lifting Have you pinned down the pricking? When I pin down the corners (and longer sides, if necessary), the pattern can't ride up because the pins are holding it down. They're pushed all the way down flush with the pillow, so the threads won't catch on them. Robin P. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com/ -Original Message- I have worked many yards of buckspoint lace on roller pillows and not had the problem of the pricking card coming up from the pillow. But when I work a pattern on a cookie type pillow I have this problem. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pattern lifting
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 12:38:08 -0400, Clay wrote: I've not worked with 300 bobbins at a time, but I can tell you how to tame your bobbins when you have more than can be accomodated at one time on your pillow... Since you're working with Midlands bobbins, you're in luck! The easiest way to keep your pillow tidy is to go out to your nearest craft or knitting shop and buy a bunch of stitch holders used in knitting to hold knitting stitches when you take the knitting off the needle. They look like very large safety pins, and will accomodate 8 - 10 pairs of bobbins when they are run through the spangles. When you gather up your bobbins like this, the bundles can be stacked on top of each other on one side of the pillow or the other, leaving plenty of space in the center for the bobbins you're working. To figure out how many of these holders you need, count the bobbins on your pillow and divide by 16... for 150 bobbins, I'd buy ten. You can always buy more as you tackle wider projects. Stitch holders are good, but any pillow only has space for stacking a given number. Having worked with 300 bobbins at one time on a 24 inch cookie pillow, I exceeded the stitch holder stacking space available on my pillow. So I moved on to the next technique - using a lace to tie bundles of bobbins together. I thread a lace through the bobbins for one area of the lace, tie the ends of the lace together so the bobbins are in a bundle, and then swing them out of the way. The bundle takes up a lot less space than the same number of bobbins on stitch holders. There are old pictures of Bucks lacemakers with bundles of bobbins tied up out of the way on their big bolster style pillows, so it's in keeping with the piece Karisse wants to make. -- And now, the current score... Deep Space 9, Babylon 5 Steph Peters [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tatting, lace stitching page http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/index.htm Scanned by WinProxy http://www.Ositis.com/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
