Re: FW: 4X gear set

2015-02-04 Thread mwfoscue
This post's topic has me baffled - not owning a 4x gear (gear set?).  I understand how the "standard" gear set works - saw Andy demo that every Woodworking Show in the late 90's.Having seen pics of a 4x set, I am puzzled as to how/where they mount and what they do for you.When/why would you use the 4x?  And are there other Xx gear sets - like 6x or 10x?  [Uh oh - I bet I have "planted a seed" in NY Joe's brain!  If there wasn't one of those gear set - I bet he'll be figuring out how to make them. ;-) ]Mac-Original Message-
From: Ronkirch1 via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Sent: Feb 4, 2015 9:02 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: 4X gear set






I purchased the 4X gear set when they first came out. When I was using 
them one of the gears slipped on the delrin insert. I called Tracy he 
said to send them back and they would pinned them. They were OK after that. When 
ordering specify that they be pinned if they are still using the delrin 
inserts.
Ron

In a message dated 2/2/2015 4:37:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
bulke...@mmnet.com.au writes:

  
   
  
  
  
  From: Bill 
  Bulkeley [mailto:bulke...@mmnet.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2015 8:18 
  AMTo: 'Bill 
  Bulkeley'Subject: RE: 4X 
  gear set
   
  It’s my 
  understanding that legacy laser cut all their gears on sight at the legacy 
  factory it shows that on their video in the first 60 seconds 
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpDJNYqCrEU
  some of the 4x 
  gears have what looks like delrin inserts in the middle of the gears so i 
  don’t know if legacy will make those ones but still a phone call would soon 
  tell you
   
  Bill
   
  
  
  From: Bill 
  Bulkeley [mailto:bulke...@mmnet.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2015 8:04 
  AMTo: Bill 
  BulkeleySubject: Fw: 4X gear 
  set
   
  
   
  
  - Original 
  Message - 
  
  From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy 
  Ornamental Mills 
  
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  
  Sent: Tuesday, February 
  03, 2015 6:07 AM
  
  Subject: Re: 4X gear 
  set
  
   
  
  in the "for what it's worth" department...i was also 
  looking to obtain some legacy gears  for the the project/mod i am 
  currently doing...put a call in to legacy last week and received a return call 
  just about an hour ago, with an apology for taking so long to get back to 
  me...they said they can and will make gears to order...the procedure would be 
  to take an order, make the gears and then wait a bit for the next batch of 
  work to go to the plater, an outside contractor...how long all of that would 
  take, i do not know, nor could they be specific...would it include the 4X 
  set?, i do not know...and i did not ask for pricing...did not want to push my 
  luck, as i was asking a number of other questions...but they were very 
  courteous on the phone and the feeling i got was that with a bit of patience, 
  an order would be processed and would get done...anyway, might be worth a call 
  to see exactly what is available...in fact, if any of the other members were 
  into obtaining gears, to do it at the same time would probably be the best 
  thing to do...not to get a discount, but to speed up the process a bit...for 
  the record, i spoke to chris, nice guy...joeOn Monday, February 2, 
  2015 at 12:27:52 PM UTC-5, Ian Orgill wrote: 
  
  
  Thanks for replying. I need the diameter of each gear, 
  of set 2(B) and set 3(C) with the number of teeth related to each gear. I 
  think there is 12 in each gear set.
  
   Are you in the 
  UK?
  
   
  
  thanks
  
  IanOn Sunday, 1 February 2015 19:38:54 UTC, 
  Ian Orgill wrote:
  


Hello,

I am looking for the 4x gear multiplier set of 
groups 2 an 3 or B an C,

 can anyone 
help?

 If anyone has got the specs I maybe able to 
get them made.

 

thanks
  








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RE: Unknown part

2015-02-02 Thread mwfoscue
End view of the Startrek part - so we can see that profile.  First post never showed it.Thanks.Mac-Original Message-
From: MAX LATHAM 
Sent: Feb 2, 2015 10:06 PM
To: legacy 
Subject: RE: Unknown part




So, a to be painted klingon circle cutting device!Fits, the man who had the machine had it all , even a gear about a foot diameter, two vices, a rotary table and a box of bits. Am just sorting it all out  Sorry he dies before I even knew anyone around here was a Legacy fan.Need I send more photos?Thanks folksmaxDate: Mon, 2 Feb 2015 19:58:19 -0500Subject: Re: Unknown partFrom: coleandrew...@gmail.comTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comIt looks similar to my circle turning device  . I don't see that red thing on mine . I have not ever used mine , got it when I bought the mill . It mounts fromside rail to rail . You drill a hole in some mdf and set it on that pivot . You can turn circles up to the maximum working length of your mill( 48 in. in my case) . Put some sticky tape on the mdf and put your work piece on it . I remember thinking to raise the bed until the stock just touches the top rails so it won't wobble.On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 5:22 PM,   wrote:Max,If you aren't going to use it - send it to "N Y Joe".  He will make something neat out of it.  Although it may not interest him. Doesn't look big enough. ;-)Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Feb 2, 2015 4:35 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Unknown part











 

 
  
 






Looks like a starboard nacelle antimatter coupling
cover to me max most likely blown off in a klingon attack lololol I’m a trekkie
too Mac

Bill







From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2015
8:30 AM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Unknown part





 



That's funny.  In other words, it's not a Legacy part! 
That's all I got!





 





-Tim









- Original Message - 





From:
mwfos...@earthlink.net






To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com






Sent:
Monday, February 02, 2015 1:15 PM





Subject:
Re: Unknown part





 





Max,

How about an "end view" shot - so we can see its shape.  Also
place a ruler in photo - so can gauge size.

My guess at this point is that it is a piece from The Starship
Enterprise.  Appears to be a component from the Anterior starboard-side
hyper-flux muti-plexing modulator.  I would NOT publicize that you have
it.  Your neighborhood could become swarmed by a flash-mob of Trekies.
Did you by chance purchase the Mill from a "Captain Kirk - Captain James
Kirk"? 
Thanks.
Mac 















-Original Message-

From: MAX LATHAM 
Sent: Feb 2, 2015 1:51 PM 
To: legacy 
Subject: Unknown part 






Recently I
posted about a purchase of a used mill. 



Along with the
boxes came a part with which I am not familiar.





Perhaps
someone has an idea? and thanks





max





 







  







 



 









  







 



















  







 























  







 





















"Those who beat
their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."
(Thomas Jefferson)






















 		 	   		  









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RE: Unknown part

2015-02-02 Thread mwfoscue
Max,If you aren't going to use it - send it to "N Y Joe".  He will make something neat out of it.  Although it may not interest him. Doesn't look big enough. ;-)Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Feb 2, 2015 4:35 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Unknown part











 

 
  
 






Looks like a starboard nacelle antimatter coupling
cover to me max most likely blown off in a klingon attack lololol I’m a trekkie
too Mac

Bill

 





From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2015
8:30 AM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Unknown part





 



That's funny.  In other words, it's not a Legacy part! 
That's all I got!





 





-Tim





 







- Original Message - 





From:
mwfos...@earthlink.net






To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com






Sent:
Monday, February 02, 2015 1:15 PM





Subject:
Re: Unknown part





 





Max,

How about an "end view" shot - so we can see its shape.  Also
place a ruler in photo - so can gauge size.

My guess at this point is that it is a piece from The Starship
Enterprise.  Appears to be a component from the Anterior starboard-side
hyper-flux muti-plexing modulator.  I would NOT publicize that you have
it.  Your neighborhood could become swarmed by a flash-mob of Trekies.
Did you by chance purchase the Mill from a "Captain Kirk - Captain James
Kirk"? 
Thanks.
Mac 















-Original Message-

From: MAX LATHAM 
Sent: Feb 2, 2015 1:51 PM 
To: legacy 
Subject: Unknown part 






Recently I
posted about a purchase of a used mill. 



Along with the
boxes came a part with which I am not familiar.





Perhaps
someone has an idea? and thanks





max





 







  







 



 









  







 



















  







 























  







 





















"Those who beat
their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."
(Thomas Jefferson)





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No virus found in
this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5646 / Virus Database: 4273/9046 - Release Date: 02/02/15

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Re: Unknown part

2015-02-02 Thread mwfoscue
Max,How about an "end view" shot - so we can see its shape.  Also place a ruler in photo - so can gauge size.My guess at this point is that it is a piece from The Starship Enterprise.  Appears to be a component from the Anterior starboard-side hyper-flux muti-plexing modulator.  I would NOT publicize that you have it.  Your neighborhood could become swarmed by a flash-mob of Trekies.Did you by chance purchase the Mill from a "Captain Kirk - Captain James Kirk"? Thanks.Mac -Original Message-
From: MAX LATHAM 
Sent: Feb 2, 2015 1:51 PM
To: legacy 
Subject: Unknown part




Recently I posted about a purchase of a used mill.Along with the boxes came a part with which I am not familiar.Perhaps someone has an idea? and thanksmax         		 	   		  





"Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."   (Thomas Jefferson)



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Re: project pics

2015-01-28 Thread mwfoscue
Max,The photo "label" is quite unique - why is it named Panama?Mac-Original Message-
From: max 
Sent: Jan 28, 2015 11:33 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: project pics

"These are a few of my favorite things" . The bit restraint keeps the bit from bottoming out and  is a dental brace rubber band. Ubiquitous. The bed attachments are vertical and horizontal clamps.








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RE: enlarging turning capacity of a legacy

2015-01-26 Thread mwfoscue
Joe,As I read Bill's comments - I got to thinking:  Months ago you told us your business was essentially making "custom drapery rods".  In MY mind, drapery rods are no bigger around than maybe THREE INCHES - MAXIMUM!!  Yes - some may be 16 feet LONG - but NOT 16" in diameter.Are you now producing them for "The Giant's Castle" from "Jack and the Beanstalk" or perhaps a "Gulliver-esque" theme park?I'm beginning to think that you are going to try to land a contract to replace the huge columns on The White House.  ;-)On a serious note:  Why this apparent change in direction of your business model?I gotta admit - you keep us both educated AND entertained.Thanks for the continuing updates - I do enjoy & appreciate them.Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Jan 26, 2015 11:24 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: enlarging turning capacity of a legacy








 

 
  
 






Very nice i will be interested to see if the
gear linkages will still  reach to fit all the gears when finished

This will really extend the size of work you
will be able to do

Bill

 



From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, 27 January 2015
12:54 PM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: enlarging turning
capacity of a legacy



 



starting a separate discussion  regarding enlarging the turning
capacity of my legacy, as i have decided to proceed with this
project...although, i am still a bit nervous about this mod...what you are
looking at are the prototypes of the vertical supports and the cross
braces...the vertical supports were easy enough...some 2" X 3". cold
rolled steel is a very nice match...the width is the same as the legacy piece,
the depth about 3/16" deeper than the legacy piece, but that does not
matter... and leaving it a full, rectangular tube will only make the whole
support stronger...i cut the legacy support in such a way that if i need to
lengthen the vertical slot(where the bed support brace attaches), i can always
do that later once i mock everything up...this work was a simple cut and weld
procedure...the cross brace was done in a similar fashion but i had to cut a
section out of the 2 X 3 tubing lengthwise and weld it back together again, so
it matched the width of the brace...a bit more work than the support, but it
came out well...everything goes back together as legacy originally intended it
to do...a bit relieved these two pieces came out as well as they did, but it
took more time than i anticipated and with many more pieces i have left to do,
this is going to be a longer project than i originally thought...any and all
comments welcome...and you all can save the "joe, you must be crazy"
comments, as i already know that!...thanks...joe


















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Re: enlarging turning capacity of a legacy

2015-01-26 Thread mwfoscue
Joe,After your latest comments about there being no welds on the LOM - I take back my comment that I suspect you used to work there.  If you had - LOTS of the Mill would have been welded - you LOVE welding - and do it well!   I'll bet you even have welded steel door frames throughout your house - "just because".  And you probably have 8 foot tall by 4 foot wide door frames - "bigger is better"!  ;-)Mac-Original Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Sent: Jan 26, 2015 9:12 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: enlarging turning capacity of a legacy

recently, as i was disassembling and "playing" with my machine, i noticed something that never dawned on me before...there seems to be not a single weld on the legacy whatsoever...i find this to be quite unique for a machine as complex as this is and a major accomplishment in engineering and design...not sure if it is andy, tracy or someone else's background that accomplished this(or perhaps a team effort)...but i certainly tip my hat to the craftsmanship that went into it...very well done and executed...must have taken an incredible amountjoe of hours to work it all out...i am taking a huge amount of time just to modify it, can't imagine how much time it took to make it originally...On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 9:02:08 PM UTC-5, joe biunno wrote:also considering a brace/gusset where the cross brace meets the vertical support...it would be shaped so as not to be in the way of the largest turning diameter, but be as large as possible...will determine if it is needed once the modified machine is completely reassembled...joeOn Monday, January 26, 2015 at 8:54:09 PM UTC-5, joe biunno wrote:starting a separate discussion  regarding enlarging the turning capacity of my legacy, as i have decided to proceed with this project...although, i am still a bit nervous about this mod...what you are looking at are the prototypes of the vertical supports and the cross braces...the vertical supports were easy enough...some 2" X 3". cold rolled steel is a very nice match...the width is the same as the legacy piece, the depth about 3/16" deeper than the legacy piece, but that does not matter... and leaving it a full, rectangular tube will only make the whole support stronger...i cut the legacy support in such a way that if i need to lengthen the vertical slot(where the bed support brace attaches), i can always do that later once i mock everything up...this work was a simple cut and weld procedure...the cross brace was done in a similar fashion but i had to cut a section out of the 2 X 3 tubing lengthwise and weld it back together again, so it matched the width of the brace...a bit more work than the support, but it came out well...everything goes back together as legacy originally intended it to do...a bit relieved these two pieces came out as well as they did, but it took more time than i anticipated and with many more pieces i have left to do, this is going to be a longer project than i originally thought...any and all comments welcome...and you all can save the "joe, you must be crazy" comments, as i already know that!...thanks...joe...forgot to mention...the photos are a before and after...and the added pieces of new metal are 8" long each








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Re: enlarging turning capacity of a legacy

2015-01-26 Thread mwfoscue
Dang Joe!  You remind me of the old Memorex commercials:  "Is it live? - Or is it Memorex?"Is it Legacy? - or is it "Joe's"?   You could convince me that you worked at Legacy - in their fabrication/skunkwerks dept.!VERY nice work Joe!  I KNEW you'd have something bigger to show us.Thanks for sharing.Mac-Original Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Sent: Jan 26, 2015 8:54 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: enlarging turning capacity of a legacy

starting a separate discussion  regarding enlarging the turning capacity of my legacy, as i have decided to proceed with this project...although, i am still a bit nervous about this mod...what you are looking at are the prototypes of the vertical supports and the cross braces...the vertical supports were easy enough...some 2" X 3". cold rolled steel is a very nice match...the width is the same as the legacy piece, the depth about 3/16" deeper than the legacy piece, but that does not matter... and leaving it a full, rectangular tube will only make the whole support stronger...i cut the legacy support in such a way that if i need to lengthen the vertical slot(where the bed support brace attaches), i can always do that later once i mock everything up...this work was a simple cut and weld procedure...the cross brace was done in a similar fashion but i had to cut a section out of the 2 X 3 tubing lengthwise and weld it back together again, so it matched the width of the brace...a bit more work than the support, but it came out well...everything goes back together as legacy originally intended it to do...a bit relieved these two pieces came out as well as they did, but it took more time than i anticipated and with many more pieces i have left to do, this is going to be a longer project than i originally thought...any and all comments welcome...and you all can save the "joe, you must be crazy" comments, as i already know that!...thanks...joe








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Stuck pieces on Mill - does this work?

2015-01-25 Thread mwfoscue
I came across the below link on eBay.The headstock's "drive insert" is STUCK in the Morse taper sleeve.I even resorted to disassembling the headstock to try to get the two pieces apart.  No luck.I've tried "WD-40", "Liquid Wrench", and a couple others.  I've also tried placing the piece(s) in the freezer - then removing them days later and they still would not come apart.  The only thing I haven't tried is the heat treatment - using a propane torch.  Have been reluctant to go that route - saving it as my last resort.The below product claims it should work. (Zoom in on the images and read the labels. It is supposed to make its way into a one millionth of an inch gap.  They also state they have a "money-back guarantee.")My question:  Have any of you tried/used "Kroil"?  If yes - results?http://www.ebay.com/itm/250889118478?_trksid=p11010.c100136.m2769&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140212115136%26meid%3Dc771b46a3aac4b6ebb3e1bfed02fbd49%26pid%3D100136%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D261739895537/?ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1120In the meantime:  While waiting to hear back from The Group, I hope to contact Kano Laboratories and see if I can get a "sample-size" sent to me - either a "drip" bottle or a small "spray" can.  (Yes, Bill, let's hope they make a "drip" bottle/non-aerosol version - so you can order some if it works.)Mac"Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."   (Thomas Jefferson)



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RE: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation

2015-01-24 Thread mwfoscue
James,Thanks. Do you also have one of the more "modern" Legacy Ornamental Mills - like the 900, 1200. 1800?  If so, can you compare the two sets of gears?I need to be sure that the gears you are referring to will work on my Mill.  Do they fit/fill the profile (semi-circular arcs) that is painted on the headstock end of the 900/1200/1800?Thanks for the info re: the felt wheel.  I have a WorkSharp 3000 and I thought it was the felt disk they make for it.  If yours is an inch thick, then it is not for the WorkSharp.  It uses one about 1/2" thick and 150mm diameter.Thanks again.Mac-Original Message-
From: James Fadenrecht 
Sent: Jan 24, 2015 2:05 PM
To: "legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com" 
Subject: RE: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation




I do have a duplicate set of gears (the gold ones), crank, etc. I believe were for the original IRT-33.  The silver plated gears are for the MA.  I could sell you the IRT-33 gold gears, etc. if you like. I'll take a picture of what I have for the IRT so you can see what you would be getting.  once you've seen the picture, we can work out what would be a reasonable price.  In terms of the felt wheel it is a 6" dia, 1" thick wheel.  I'll probably keep that to do finish buffing.Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2015 13:28:21 -0500From: mwfos...@earthlink.netTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentationMike,Three questions:1.  How is it that "Oklahoma" Mike is living near Milwaukee?  (Shouldn't you now be "Milwaukee Mike"?)2.  If you have extra parts that you will not be needing/using, I will probably be interested in some of them.  Specifically, I am in need of a set of the drive(?) gears - the ones identified on the LOM headstock as "A" thru "G".  They appear to be the ones shown in the top/first picture in your email.  Will you be willing to sell me these gears?3.  In the last picture, in the lower right corner, there is what appears to be a round thick felt disk - with a hole in its center.  What is its diameter and thickness?If it is about 6" diameter, I may be interested in it as well.Thanks.Mac-Original Message-
From: "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
Sent: Jan 24, 2015 11:25 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation


  

  
  
Looks like I will be able to get you a manual soon,
  Just bought the one listed on Craigs List.  More to come.
  Mike
  OK

On 10/9/2014 9:48 PM, Tim Krause wrote:


  
  
  Do you have a photo?  I'm assuming a delrin nut.
   
  -Tim
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: Okla Mike (Liltwisted)

To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com

Sent: Thursday, October 09,
  2014 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: New Owner of a
  Woodchuck MA - Need documentation


Split nut on the main drive but not on the
  carriage
On 10/9/2014 4:08 PM, Tim Krause
  wrote:


  
  I've never seen a copy of the Woodchuck manual either. 
Am I understanding that the woodchuck does not have a split
nut on any axis?  
   
  -Tim
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: Okla Mike (Liltwisted) 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com

Sent: Thursday, October
  09, 2014 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: New Owner
  of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation


I've been looking for that darn thing.  I am
  sure it is around but can't find it.  Will keep looking
  Mike
  OK

On 10/9/2014 3:02 AM, Bill
  Bulkeley wrote:


  
  


  
  
Hey
  Mike I don’t suppose you have the woodchucks
  instruction assembly manual do you
I’d
  love to see one and I bet James would too
Bill


  
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
  [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com]
  On Behalf
  Of Okla Mike (Liltwisted)
  Sent:
  Thursday, 9 October 2014 1:36 PM
  To:
  legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
  Subject:
  Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need
  documentation
  


You are correct about
  the lead screw n

Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation

2015-01-24 Thread mwfoscue
Mike,Three questions:1.  How is it that "Oklahoma" Mike is living near Milwaukee?  (Shouldn't you now be "Milwaukee Mike"?)2.  If you have extra parts that you will not be needing/using, I will probably be interested in some of them.  Specifically, I am in need of a set of the drive(?) gears - the ones identified on the LOM headstock as "A" thru "G".  They appear to be the ones shown in the top/first picture in your email.  Will you be willing to sell me these gears?3.  In the last picture, in the lower right corner, there is what appears to be a round thick felt disk - with a hole in its center.  What is its diameter and thickness?If it is about 6" diameter, I may be interested in it as well.Thanks.Mac-Original Message-
From: "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
Sent: Jan 24, 2015 11:25 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation


  

  
  
Looks like I will be able to get you a manual soon,
  Just bought the one listed on Craigs List.  More to come.
  Mike
  OK

On 10/9/2014 9:48 PM, Tim Krause wrote:


  
  
  Do you have a photo?  I'm assuming a delrin nut.
   
  -Tim
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: Okla Mike (Liltwisted)

To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com

Sent: Thursday, October 09,
  2014 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: New Owner of a
  Woodchuck MA - Need documentation


Split nut on the main drive but not on the
  carriage
On 10/9/2014 4:08 PM, Tim Krause
  wrote:


  
  I've never seen a copy of the Woodchuck manual either. 
Am I understanding that the woodchuck does not have a split
nut on any axis?  
   
  -Tim
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: Okla Mike (Liltwisted) 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com

Sent: Thursday, October
  09, 2014 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: New Owner
  of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation


I've been looking for that darn thing.  I am
  sure it is around but can't find it.  Will keep looking
  Mike
  OK

On 10/9/2014 3:02 AM, Bill
  Bulkeley wrote:


  
  


  
 

 
  
 
  
Hey
  Mike I don’t suppose you have the woodchucks
  instruction assembly manual do you
I’d
  love to see one and I bet James would too
Bill


  
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
  [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com]
  On Behalf
  Of Okla Mike (Liltwisted)
  Sent:
  Thursday, 9 October 2014 1:36 PM
  To:
  legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
  Subject:
  Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need
  documentation
  


You are correct about
  the lead screw nut.  It attaches to the bracket
  shown below the crank handle in the picture.  You
  will see two studs on the router mount that will
  line up with them.  They will be held in place
  with 2 wing nuts.  When you are in a free Y axis
  mode, take off the wingnuts and flip the bracket
  away from the router.  It will slide free now. 
  The little shaft in the U bracket is the reversing
  bracket.  For counter-clockwise or left hand
  twists.  
  
  Mike
  Ok
  
  


  On

10/8/2014 7:07 PM, James Fadenrecht wrote:


  
Thanks so much for the
  help.  I'm sure this will get me started.  In
  looking at the parts and the machine, I still
  don't see how or which part connects the drive
  screw to the router base.  The only threaded
  part that looks like it would connect is the
  upper left corner of the second picture.  If
  

RE: Old LOM for sale in Milwaukee $600

2015-01-23 Thread mwfoscue
Maybe it's a Shanghi knock-off - with a couple of Legacy parts added for good measure.  The frame is definitely NOT a-la-NY Joe!  WYYY too light weight - and NOT long enuff!    ;-)Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Jan 23, 2015 8:53 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Old LOM for sale in Milwaukee $600








 

 
  
 






Looks a bit woodchucky to me is but that part
in the box with rollers on it is that legacy?

Bill

 



From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Harvey
Sent: Saturday, 24 January 2015
12:37 PM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Old LOM for sale in
Milwaukee $600



 





http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4852950454.html





 





I do not know what model it is.





 





Harvey









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Re: Old LOM for sale in Milwaukee $600

2015-01-23 Thread mwfoscue
Will the gear train on it work on the LOMs with the six X-axis extruded aluminum rails (like the Models 900, 1000, and 1200)? Specifically the individual gears themselves.  If yes, will new indexing holes have to be drilled?Mac-Original Message-
From: "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
Sent: Jan 23, 2015 8:51 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Old LOM for sale in Milwaukee $600


  

  
  
It is the same WoodChuck as I own and do all my work
  on.  I just sent him an email.  Great parts machine
  
  Mike
  OK
   
On 1/23/2015 7:37 PM, Harvey wrote:


  
  
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4852950454.html


I do not know what model it is.


Harvey
  
  


  









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Re: Legacy Mill 4 Sale in Baltimore area

2015-01-13 Thread mwfoscue
Tim,The ad must appear different in the Pacific NW than it does here - only 60 miles from Baltimore.  The CraigsList ad I saw reads:  Legacy ornamental mill -router lathe - $455The "manual" in one of the photos reads Legacy 500EXL / Legacy 600EXLSo I guess we are back to which is it - and what differentiates one from the other?  (I know the 5 vs the 6; 500/600 - but what else?)Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jan 13, 2015 9:35 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Legacy Mill 4 Sale in Baltimore area








Now I'm laughing at how much time I spent trying to read the label.  
On the listing, it tells you it's a model 600 EXL!  It's not in the 
body of the description :-).  Mystery solved!
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Tim 
  Krause 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 6:31 
  PM
  Subject: Re: Legacy Mill 4 Sale in 
  Baltimore area
  
  It's very difficult to tell.  There is a label on the headstock 
  that shows what model it is.  I can't see the writing, but since the 
  check is in the left side of the options, it is either a model 500 or 
  600.  I have a feeling you're going to ask me how to tell the difference 
  between a model 500 and 600, and I can only say read the fine label!
   
  -Tim
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
mwfos...@earthlink.net 
To: LOM - Tim 
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 12:43 
PM
Subject: Legacy Mill 4 Sale in 
Baltimore area

Model number for this Mill is not specified - but it appears 
to be a small, early model; 40" w/acrylic gear train.http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/4842605427.htmlDoes 
anyone know model number/name for it?Mac





"Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."   (Thomas Jefferson)



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Legacy Mill 4 Sale in Baltimore area

2015-01-13 Thread mwfoscue
Model number for this Mill is not specified - but it appears to be a small, early model; 40" w/acrylic gear train.http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/4842605427.htmlDoes anyone know model number/name for it?Mac



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Re: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California

2015-01-07 Thread mwfoscue
Tim,Next time I go to the Smithsonian's American History Museum, I'll give them your contact info.  I am beginning to think that you house the Legacy Ornamental Mill "collection" that they will one day want to incorporate into their exhibits. (Is there a model that you don't own? Yet?)  ;-)Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jan 7, 2015 5:25 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California








I should have added, the photo on the history page is my machine.  I 
don't know of anyone else that owns one.
 
-Tim
 



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RE: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California

2015-01-07 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,Good one - my fault.  When I went to the "History" link, I scrolled down until I got to the CNC machine and "Robin".  Since it was the "history" page (displaying in chronological order) , I figured I had gone far enough - since I knew the HTC was not a "new" member of the LOM family; that it preceded the CNCs.  So I scrolled back up and found the 600EXL - which has some similarities - and thought that it was the model being referenced.My apologies - I failed to scroll down past the newest mills - into the "specialized" section.Still waiting for someone who owns one to enlighten us - and show us some items produced on it..Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Jan 7, 2015 4:44 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California











 

 
  
 






Am i missing something they look the same to
me or am i looking at the wrong mill here are the 2 pics side by side the one
from (CL) and the one from the legacy history page 

Bill 

 





From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mwfos...@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, 8 January 2015
8:08 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Two Legacy Machines
for $700 in Modesto, California





 



Bill,
Thanks. I went to that page earlier - before posting the question.  
The model on CraigsList (CL) is NOT on the History page.

Look closely at the CL unit - the "tailstock" is not there. 
There is a fixed red strut at both ends. 
At the "head"(?) end are two crank handles - one to drive the router
carriage and the other to rotate the integral/built-in turntable.  

That machine appears to be exactly what Begat "described" with his
"name" for it - a Horizontal Turning center. (Or perhaps a
"Medallion Maker"?)

Waiting for The Group's "Brain Trust"/Tribal Knowledge to jump in and
enlighten us. 
  Tim/Euro Roger, that includes you.  ;-)

Mac















-Original Message-

From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Jan 7, 2015 3:44 PM 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California 




 

I think tim owns one of
those  also there is one on here

http://ornamentalmills.com/history/index.html

 

Bill





From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mwfos...@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, 8 January 2015
5:53 AM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Two Legacy Machines
for $700 in Modesto, California





 



Where do you find info on the Legacy
"Horizontal Turning Center". 
(How did you come by this "identification"?)
Do you have any info/specs on it?  Like length and diameter
capacities?  
What did it come with?  Like gears & ratios, reversing gear, 
etc.
Do any Group members own one?  Perhaps you can enlighten us.  A copy
of the Owner's Manual would be great.
Thanks to all for any feedback/answers.
Mac















-Original Message- 
From: Begat 
Sent: Jan 6, 2015 9:33 PM 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California 



Hello All,

I believe the ornamental mill is a 800 Exl  and the other is a rare
Horizontal Turning Center

https://modesto.craigslist.org/tls/4827196807.html

Begat











No virus found in
this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4257/8887 - Release Date: 01/07/15

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RE: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California

2015-01-07 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,Thanks. I went to that page earlier - before posting the question.  The model on CraigsList (CL) is NOT on the History page.Look closely at the CL unit - the "tailstock" is not there.  There is a fixed red strut at both ends. At the "head"(?) end are two crank handles - one to drive the router carriage and the other to rotate the integral/built-in turntable.  That machine appears to be exactly what Begat "described" with his "name" for it - a Horizontal Turning center. (Or perhaps a "Medallion Maker"?)Waiting for The Group's "Brain Trust"/Tribal Knowledge to jump in and enlighten us.   Tim/Euro Roger, that includes you.  ;-)Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Jan 7, 2015 3:44 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California











 

 
  
 






 

I think tim owns one of those  also there is
one on here

http://ornamentalmills.com/history/index.html

 

Bill





From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mwfos...@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, 8 January 2015
5:53 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Two Legacy Machines
for $700 in Modesto, California





 



Where do you find info on the Legacy "Horizontal Turning
Center". 
(How did you come by this "identification"?)
Do you have any info/specs on it?  Like length and diameter
capacities?  
What did it come with?  Like gears & ratios, reversing gear, 
etc.
Do any Group members own one?  Perhaps you can enlighten us.  A copy
of the Owner's Manual would be great.
Thanks to all for any feedback/answers.
Mac















-Original Message- 
From: Begat 
Sent: Jan 6, 2015 9:33 PM 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California 



Hello All,

I believe the ornamental mill is a 800 Exl  and the other is a rare
Horizontal Turning Center

https://modesto.craigslist.org/tls/4827196807.html

Begat




















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Re: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California

2015-01-07 Thread mwfoscue
Where do you find info on the Legacy "Horizontal Turning Center". (How did you come by this "identification"?)Do you have any info/specs on it?  Like length and diameter capacities?  What did it come with?  Like gears & ratios, reversing gear,  etc.Do any Group members own one?  Perhaps you can enlighten us.  A copy of the Owner's Manual would be great.Thanks to all for any feedback/answers.Mac-Original Message-
From: Begat 
Sent: Jan 6, 2015 9:33 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Two Legacy Machines for $700 in Modesto, California

Hello All,I believe the ornamental mill is a 800 Exl  and the other is a rare Horizontal Turning Centerhttps://modesto.craigslist.org/tls/4827196807.htmlBegat








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RE: New Old Canoe paddle

2014-12-27 Thread mwfoscue
Ok, Bill - you let the cat out of the bag.Tim, It's now your turn to chime in.  Many of us "newer" members have no idea of what "Tim's Quick Change Gear Set" is or what is does.  Other than the one picture that Curtis supplied - I'd never seen of nor heard of it.  Good thing Curtis included a picture.  Looking at that picture I thought it was something that fell off the movie set of Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang-Bang. (Or out of the lab of Rube Goldberg)  :-)  At least until I read Curtis' comments - now I'm curious.Tim - we are waiting to hear from you.Happy New Year to all!Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Dec 27, 2014 7:50 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: New Old Canoe paddle











 

 
  
 






Tims quick change gear set is a great idea I
had one before the fire I miss it I wish I had another

Bill

 





From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of CURTIS GEORGE
Sent: Sunday, 28 December 2014
9:58 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: New Old Canoe paddle





 





Thank you Bill





I had some time and this paddle was just
sitting around, I figured it couldn't hurt to try. I the worst case it ends up
in the garbage.(and that is were I found it in the first place.) ;-)tI did
learn some neat things while working on this cane, first off the paddle is
cedar and very light. (Ive not worked with cedar before in the turning, manly
due to its softness and I though it would be to weak.) I was wrong . this cane
is very light and strong, I did have some tair out on the checkering, but it
was quickly eliminated with just a few strokes with a file .





I used Mike Pung's carriage indexing
method (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjcFpO51upw)
I did do it slightly different than what Mike shows in the video. (mainly due
the the paddle head would get in the way) I made my first cut, then brought it
back to the start, where I then indexed it the 1/2" I wanted, at that
placement,I set my stop block and then just ran the machine down to the limit
switch, stopped the motor (controller) and returned the carriage back to the
start 6 times, then switched the travel rotation (Krause ind. Quick change,
directional gear set..) (see attach.)  and repeated it 6 more times. 





Everything worked out well, the cane took
about an hour to turn, So I wasnt gone form the family's celebration, long
enough to have anyone start looking for me , this year. ;-)





Have a GREAT DAY! everyone.





C.A.G.











From: "Bill
Bulkeley" 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2014
5:01:05 PM
Subject: RE: New Old Canoe paddle



 



Nice curt good idea too

Bill

 





From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of CURTIS GEORGE
Sent: Saturday, 27 December 2014
1:15 PM
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
Subject: New Old Canoe paddle





 





Hello all.





Todays project was to turn this old canoe
paddle into a cane. I think it worked out pretty well.





Let me know what you think?





C.A.G.





 





 





 















 








"Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."   (Thomas Jefferson)



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Re: Greetings

2014-12-25 Thread mwfoscue
Brigitte,Thank you for the very thorough reply.  I found it all very interesting.  We especially appreciate the link to Cane Corner and the two links at bottom of the Cane Restoration page.Also found it no surprise that you also own/use a Shopsmith 500.  I have noticed that MANY LOM owners also own a SS.  (If you have not upgraded to the 510, or better yet the 520, I suggest you check into doing that.  I had a 500 and did the upgrade to 510 when it came out.  Then when the 520 came out upgraded again.  One day I hope t o be able to upgrade to the new DVR/digital motor.)I agree with Curtis - if you don't have the SS Lathe Duplicator, you should check it out.  With its pointed carbide cutter you can do some fairly detailed copying of spindles.Blessings to all.Mac-Original Message-
From: Brigitte Graham 
Sent: Dec 25, 2014 12:04 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills 
Subject: Re: Greetings

Mac, My husband (Gavin) is an occasional user of his LOM 1200 (still on the steep learning curve!). His 'paid' work involved house maintenance for a local landlord, until the estate was sold off and he was made redundant. He now does house/garden maintenance for local people. So his time in his fully equipped w/s is limited. In actual fact he is a qualified wheelwright, but work in making cart/wagon wheels is sporadic at best!The LOM was brought to (mostly) use the copy template feature to speed up making spokes, which are a sort of tear-drop shape in cross section, with a "waist" about 1/3rd or the way down its length.When the machine arrived I thought I would only see him at breakfast time! Hence I called myself 'Legacy Widow'!!My business is re-seating antique chairs with split cane and rush. I also carry out repairs to the chair frames, which often require replacement rails that are broken/missing. I can do turning, but not at all good at it, so Gavin does that for me, either on a small bench top Myford lathe or on the LOM. You can see my work here <>Gavin prefers to work in wood, and is completely computer illiterate, so I do all the 'postings'!!I think this answers all your questions.CheersLegacy WidowP.s. I am a Shop Smith 500 owner/user!!On 25 December 2014 at 06:28,   wrote:Brigitte,I've/we've seen you post here once or twice a year - and you always "sign off" as Legacy Widow.  Here in America a common term is "golf widow" or "angler widow".  Those mean that the husband is an avid golfer/fisherman and the wife is left home alone while hubby spends much of his time in pursuit of his sport.  If I were to apply that logic to your "sign off" - I'd assume you are married to a gent (since you're in the UK I say gent) who spends quite a bit of time using his Legacy Mill.  However, if that were the case, it would be HIM posting to The Group - instead of his wife. (Just like in the USA, the wife probably knows very little about the sport and never shows up on the golf course or on the boat/pier.)Perhaps the case is that both you and your hubby have & use Legacy Mills.  If so, what machine(s) do you have?In any case, we love to hear more from you about what you do with your mill(s?) there on the British Isles.Merry Christmas.Mac-Original Message-
From: Brigitte Graham 
Sent: Dec 24, 2014 2:54 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills 
Subject: Greetings

Evening (well, it is here in UK!) People,I guess we will all be too busy tomorrow to look at the computers, so we'd like to wish You and Yours all a Very happy Christmas and a productive New Year. Hopefully ~ you will all get the gifts you wanted!Although more of a lurker, we really enjoy reading and learning from your comments/projects, looking forward to more of them in 2015?Legacy Widow













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Re: Greetings

2014-12-24 Thread mwfoscue
Brigitte,I've/we've seen you post here once or twice a year - and you always "sign off" as Legacy Widow.  Here in America a common term is "golf widow" or "angler widow".  Those mean that the husband is an avid golfer/fisherman and the wife is left home alone while hubby spends much of his time in pursuit of his sport.  If I were to apply that logic to your "sign off" - I'd assume you are married to a gent (since you're in the UK I say gent) who spends quite a bit of time using his Legacy Mill.  However, if that were the case, it would be HIM posting to The Group - instead of his wife. (Just like in the USA, the wife probably knows very little about the sport and never shows up on the golf course or on the boat/pier.)Perhaps the case is that both you and your hubby have & use Legacy Mills.  If so, what machine(s) do you have?In any case, we love to hear more from you about what you do with your mill(s?) there on the British Isles.Merry Christmas.Mac-Original Message-
From: Brigitte Graham 
Sent: Dec 24, 2014 2:54 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills 
Subject: Greetings

Evening (well, it is here in UK!) People,I guess we will all be too busy tomorrow to look at the computers, so we'd like to wish You and Yours all a Very happy Christmas and a productive New Year. Hopefully ~ you will all get the gifts you wanted!Although more of a lurker, we really enjoy reading and learning from your comments/projects, looking forward to more of them in 2015?Legacy Widow








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Re: merry christmas

2014-12-23 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,Merry Christmas to you and yours!  As well as to ALL members (active AND lurkers) of our Group.Also wishing a Happy, Healthy, Safe, AND Prosperous New Year as well!Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Dec 23, 2014 11:04 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: merry christmas








 

 
  
 






Well I’m a little ahead of you guys over
there, its Christmas eve here so I’m getting in a little early for you all and
I don’t care how politicly incorrect it is I’m an old fashioned boy

Merry Christmas to all in this group from down
under and I hope we all keep going posting here for many many more and a very
happy and prosperous new year for us all

Bill

 

.









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Re: boiled linseed oil

2014-12-21 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,Use two of the gallons for "Horse trading"!  Then figure out how to use that last gallon - it'll probably last you a lifetime.  :-)Mac-Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Dec 21, 2014 10:12 AM
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: boiled linseed oil

Hello Everyone. Merry Christmas to everyone, (Its the session, and the day is only a few days any-how.) ;-)This is not really Legacy related, but woodworking in general. I just got 3 one gallon cans of boiled linseed oil as a part of a horse trade deal. NOW the problem is what do I do with it all ?If anyone out there knows a good way to use this stuff and or has a need of it. please let me know? I normally use tung oil,when I use an oil finish. I know that linseed oil was a big part of  the olden days wood finishing process. It was used in almost everything for wood projects, and even used in making paints as well as sealers.So back to the question what do I use three gal. for?C.A.G.P.S. If anyone has seen Peter P.  Please have him give me a call. Ive lost his ph# as well as his e-mail address.



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RE: Inside-out turning video

2014-12-12 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,Very nice.  I prefer the light colored one - but both look great.Thanks for sharing.Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Dec 13, 2014 12:45 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Inside-out turning video








 

 
  
 






Here is my first attempt years a go http://ornamentalmills.com/Bill_Bulkeley/inside_out_ornament/index.html

A bit rough but it was the first time anything
like that was done on a legacy with practice i think much better ones could be
done. Next Christmas i will have much more time and i will try another

Bill

 



From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of rookie
Sent: Saturday, 13 December 2014
2:24 PM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Cc: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com;
curtgeo...@wowway.com
Subject: Re: Inside-out turning
video



 





Nice thread, I too liked the video, gave me some new ideas for
future projects.  I've made a lot of similar xmas ornaments years back,
see pics.  I would also make little musical boxes to go with them, playing
tunes like Frosty the Snowman, in the center cavity of the ornament I
would make a little Frosty, they make great gifts. These were all made on
my Powermatic lathe,  I've been looking for  way to make them on
the LOM, with ornamental highlights that only the LOM could produce, i.e.,
twist, flutes, etc.  One problem I've had is the small size of the
ornament, just 2-3 inches, not sure how I would approach this with the
LOM..  





 





 





http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/sammyparrot/media/DSC_1654_zps5ba9bc54.jpg.html"
target="_blank">http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x404/sammyparrot/DSC_1654_zps5ba9bc54.jpg"
border="0" alt=" photo
DSC_1654_zps5ba9bc54.jpg"/>





 





http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/sammyparrot/media/DSC_1655_zps9cf68893.jpg.html"
target="_blank">http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x404/sammyparrot/DSC_1655_zps9cf68893.jpg"
border="0" alt=" photo DSC_1655_zps9cf68893.jpg"/>





 





http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/sammyparrot/media/DSC_1659_zpsbeb6239d.jpg.html"
target="_blank">http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x404/sammyparrot/DSC_1659_zpsbeb6239d.jpg"
border="0" alt=" photo
DSC_1659_zpsbeb6239d.jpg"/>





 






On Thursday, December 11, 2014 6:49:27 PM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:











https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adgB1z-hGVQ 
Inside out turning. 





 





Bill introduced us to inside-out turning a
few years back.,In this video,The turning is done on the lathe. but I feel that
the Legacy could do as well or better, in some cases. 





Dose anyone have any Christmas ideas or
projects that could be done for a Holiday gift project?





Come on people, Lets start talking.





And and all ideas are welcome.





C.A.G.












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RE: Inside-out turning video

2014-12-11 Thread mwfoscue
I like your suggestion to just make the ornament stock a couple inches longer and lop off the glued ends to separate them.I was jesting re: you celebrating Christmas on an "opposite cycle" (in your mid-winter) from the northern hemisphere - 25 December is 25 December everywhere (within 24 hrs) - same for 1 January.   :-)Of course Joe w/the Monster Mill in New York will tell us that NO ONE celebrates New Year's like they do in New York!  Right, Joe?Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Dec 11, 2014 9:43 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Inside-out turning video











 

 
  
 






No our Christmas and new year is at the same
time the difference here is the summer holidays start strait after Christmas so
instead of just a long week end for Christmas it’s like 4 weeks long

Better for the kids i feel and one of the
pass times here at Christmas is swimming be a bit hard getting through all that
ice over your way to do that lolol

 

As for the inside out ornament, splitting it
in half instead of doing it like the guy in the video did just make your blank
longer and cut the glued ends off with the drop saw to get them apart much easier

Bill

 

 

 





From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mwfos...@earthlink.net
Sent: Friday, 12 December 2014
12:36 PM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Inside-out turning
video





 



Curtis,
Thank you for sharing that link.  That is a beautiful piece.  I just
wish I could understand Italian (I think that's what he was speaking.) - I'd
have gotten even more out of it.  It's my guess that in the beginning he
was addressing the importance/value of the grain of the wood he was using - and
how to achieve the effect he did.  

I would have eased/beveled the 4 edges that form the glue lines at the top and
bottom so that when it's time to split it apart you have a groove exactly where
the joints are - aligning the knife/splitter exactly where it needs to be.

I wonder what the species of wood were that he used - they were a nice
combination.

At the rate we (The Group) are "communicating" of late - I'd better
send my "Merry Christmas and a Happy, Safe, and Prosperous New Year to
all" wishes right now.  
(Bill - do you folks celebrate New Year's "opposite" us - like you do
winter - summer?  so you celebrate New Year's on July 1?
    :-)   JK!)
Mac















-Original Message-

From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Dec 11, 2014 7:49 PM 
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: Inside-out turning video 








https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adgB1z-hGVQ 
Inside out turning. 





 





Bill introduced us to inside-out turning a
few years back.,In this video,The turning is done on the lathe. but I feel that
the Legacy could do as well or better, in some cases. 





Dose anyone have any Christmas ideas or
projects that could be done for a Holiday gift project?





Come on people, Lets start talking.





And and all ideas are welcome.





C.A.G.









No virus found in
this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4235/8718 - Release Date: 12/11/14

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Re: Inside-out turning video

2014-12-11 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,Thank you for sharing that link.  That is a beautiful piece.  I just wish I could understand Italian (I think that's what he was speaking.) - I'd have gotten even more out of it.  It's my guess that in the beginning he was addressing the importance/value of the grain of the wood he was using - and how to achieve the effect he did.  I would have eased/beveled the 4 edges that form the glue lines at the top and bottom so that when it's time to split it apart you have a groove exactly where the joints are - aligning the knife/splitter exactly where it needs to be.I wonder what the species of wood were that he used - they were a nice combination.At the rate we (The Group) are "communicating" of late - I'd better send my "Merry Christmas and a Happy, Safe, and Prosperous New Year to all" wishes right now.  (Bill - do you folks celebrate New Year's "opposite" us - like you do winter - summer?  so you celebrate New Year's on July 1?     :-)   JK!)Mac-Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Dec 11, 2014 7:49 PM
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: Inside-out turning video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adgB1z-hGVQ  Inside out turning. Bill introduced us to inside-out turning a few years back.,In this video,The turning is done on the lathe. but I feel that the Legacy could do as well or better, in some cases. Dose anyone have any Christmas ideas or projects that could be done for a Holiday gift project?Come on people, Lets start talking.And and all ideas are welcome.C.A.G.








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Re: Youtube video

2014-11-10 Thread mwfoscue
I don't know which is weirder - the "turned object or the background sounds (music?).  What a strange contraption - someone stayed up late, MANY nights, to come up with it!Mac-Original Message-
From: Joe Gassen 
Sent: Nov 10, 2014 9:35 PM
To: "legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com" 
Subject: Re: Youtube video

wowOn Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 3:14 AM, CURTIS GEORGE  wrote:Guilty as charged Bill. ;-)I have to get to work now. Have a good day.C.A.G.From: "Bill Bulkeley" To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSent: Monday, November 10, 2014 3:35:44 AMSubject: RE: Youtube videoVery interesting i think i have seen this or similar before now i wonder if we could do a smaller version on the legacy ..And i know one of the guys has talked about mounting a legacy on end to save floor space might have been Curt im not sureAnyway great videoBill-Original Message-From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of ? Sent: Monday, 10 November 2014 5:54 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: Youtube videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6fPNNUFlTM&feature=youtube_gdata_player. I do not know which tree it handles and how it assesses this work?-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.-No virus found in this message.Checked by AVG - www.avg.comVersion: 2015.0.5315 / Virus Database: 4189/8544 - Release Date: 11/09/14-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



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Re: Drive Motor Dayton 4Z128B or 4Z381A

2014-11-02 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,I was able to view a YouTube video using the number that Alexsandr had in his link (link would not cooperate for me either).  Go to YouTube.com and put this code in their search box line:v = lyrj5QJJUzsI'm not positive that that is what he wanted us to see - its a Laguna Tool mortiser.  Other than that, I don't know what he is wanting/expecting us to see.Mac-Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Nov 2, 2014 6:48 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Drive Motor Dayton 4Z128B or 4Z381A

Alex.  I can get your link to work. could you re-post it?C.A.G.From: "Александр Ткач" To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSent: Sunday, November 2, 2014 1:25:03 AMSubject: Re: Drive Motor Dayton 4Z128B or 4Z381AIn Ukraine, there is also the city of Odessa, where I live it is far from the US. I have already brought the machine https://www.youtube.com/watch? v = lyrj5QJJUzs & feature = youtube_gdata_player.Aleksandr.








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LOM 1200(?) newly listed on eBay.

2014-11-01 Thread mwfoscue
Have you seen this Legacy Mill on eBay?:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wood-mill-lathe-Legacy-Ornamental-Mill-Model-1200-/331363030973?ssPageName=ADME:SS:SS:US:3160The seller gave us a number of photos (basically several similar shots - but from slightly different angles) but seems he did not spend much time crafting the complete ad.  Should have laid out, like many do, all the various pieces he makes mention of - and photo them.  I (and I know most of ya'll) would have included pics of the router bits.  Are they even for use with the LOM?  Are they Magnate?  With what they list, I wish them well in getting their starting/asking price.   What do ya'll think?Mac



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Re: Have YOU made a "splice" like this?

2014-10-28 Thread mwfoscue
Mike,Thanks for sharing the link - I hadn't seen it.That's what you call "precision joinery on a MASSIVE scale"!  I am impressed at how well it all seems to fit together so tightly.  Appears the only metal/steel used in the construction of the temple is in the blades used to make the cuts - NOT in screws & bolts.  Amazing!I can't help but wonder - this method of construction must be more seismically compatible - vs using bolts/screws.  What do you think?I shudder at thinking what this would cost to do in North America.  It would probably never pass "code" either.Any bets that Joe B. in NYC is already figuring out how to make these in his "Big Bertha"?  LoL (Joe - you there?)Mac-Original Message-
From: "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
Sent: Oct 28, 2014 9:03 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Have YOU made a "splice" like this?


  

  
  
Intro Video
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuBBDDOSSY0

On 10/28/2014 8:03 PM, Okla Mike
  (Liltwisted) wrote:


  
  Look at their intro video, it shows quite a few of
their joints in construction of a temple.

Mike
OK
  
  On 10/28/2014 6:41 PM, CURTIS GEORGE
wrote:
  
  

  Hello Mac.
  Now that's impressive!
   The machine is pretty Cool, but that interlocking wedge
  joint is something that I would like to learn more about .
  Thanks for the heads up. 
  C.A.G.
  
  
  
  From: mwfos...@earthlink.net
To: "LOM - Tim" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 3:59:19 PM
Subject: Have YOU made a "splice" like this?



I know
  that some of ya'll will end up trying to replicate what
  this craftsman is seen doing.
  (Joe - that includes you.  Send us pics of you making this
  joint.)
  
  
  http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/hand-tools/a-traditional-locking-scarf-jointnot-so-traditionally-made_o.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=jump&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=JLCNL_102314&day=2014-10-23&he=1b08e8b0803fc50bb62caed67108d12dfaaabc74
  
  
  Enjoy.
  
  
  Mac

  
  






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Have YOU made a "splice" like this?

2014-10-28 Thread mwfoscue
I know that some of ya'll will end up trying to replicate what this craftsman is seen doing.(Joe - that includes you.  Send us pics of you making this joint.)http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/hand-tools/a-traditional-locking-scarf-jointnot-so-traditionally-made_o.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=jump&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=JLCNL_102314&day=2014-10-23&he=1b08e8b0803fc50bb62caed67108d12dfaaabc74Enjoy.Mac



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Re: My new Z axis

2014-10-21 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis and Mike,It has happened!  Legacy Ornamental Mill and Shopsmith have "married"!   With so many Shopsmiths spending the night in the shop with LOMs, it was bound to eventually happen.  So, ya'll with both machines - be forewarned of the consequences of not practicing "Safe Shop".  Be sure to cover your machines when you are not present (make sure no holes in cover) - or you too may find a brilliant mix of the two in your shop one day.   LoL.Wonderful creative thinking and a great job Curtis.  I look forward to seeing more pics and descriptions of your "hybrid".   (Mike, I too am a "fan" and own a Shopsmith Mark V, model 520.) Mac-Original Message-
From: "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
Sent: Oct 21, 2014 6:59 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: My new Z axis


  

  
  
I'm a ShopSmith fan and I think it's great to use
  the table lift system to accomplish your elevation.  I am a big
  fan of re-purpose too.  Great Job Curt
  
  Mike
  OK

On 10/21/2014 5:55 PM, CURTIS GEORGE
  wrote:


  
  


Here is another photo for the side.
C.A.G.

From: "CURTIS
  GEORGE" 
  To: "Legacy-Ornamental-Mills"
  
  Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 6:47:37 PM
  Subject: My new Z axis
  
  
  
Hello Everyone.
Today I think Im
ready to show everyone my new Z axis, for my Legacy
ornamental mill.
My Z axis has  9" of
plunge depth,  The rack-in-pinon movement give me a lot
of control of my plunge , I have a fine adjustment knob
on the rail for even greater control of my cut.
This unit is very
stable even at full extension.
This Z axis was build
to be modulator, meaning with two screws and four knobs
loosened this unit comes off my machine very quickly and
is easy to replace  when/if needed. but what is even
more important to me, is that I can add on to this
set-up for future project ideas.
You can see my Y
movement is now linear bearings, which gives me a more
free movement than what Legacy's slides gave me.
I still have two more
attachment that need to be made before I can start my
newest idea, on how to make the Legacy do even more
ornamental type of work. (but that is entirely a
different topic, for latter conversations .)
Please let me know
what you all think of my contraption.
All that I can tell
you is, For now I really like my newest toy. ;-)
C.A.G.


  
  






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RE: MILL ON E-BAY

2014-10-15 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,
No on e got it - it did not meet the Reserve Price.
I agree with Tim - at $850 it is a great buy.  Just the router is worth $200 - $250.
Mac




-Original Message- From: Bill Bulkeley Sent: Oct 15, 2014 4:47 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: MILL ON E-BAY 



Wow what a bargain who ever got it
Bill 
 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] Sent: Wednesday, 15 October 2014 11:39 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comCc: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com; curtgeo...@wowway.comSubject: Re: MILL ON E-BAY
 

I was going to bid on this, but I couldn't arrange the time to go pick it up.I hope if found a nice home.On Wednesday, October 8, 2014 9:00:26 PM UTC-5, Curtis wrote:


Hello all.

this mill has been on the market for a while. buy it now for $800.00 local pick up only. may not be such a bad deal? Just wanted to let you all know what's out there.

Have a good night.

    C.A.G.

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGACY-1200-ORNAMENTAL-MILL-/331337965842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d25482112 

 

 

 

 

 











 

 
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Have one to sell? Sell now

LEGACY 1200 ORNAMENTAL MILL


 

Error! Filename not specified. 1 viewed per hour.

 








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Seller information


http://www.ebay.com/usr/camaro8589?_trksid=p2047675.l2559" aria-label="Member ID: camaro8589" style="color: #cc; tex
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Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation

2014-10-09 Thread mwfoscue
Curt,Wow - those were AWESOME attachmemts.  With what "paperwork" I have for my mill, I do not have these pages/this info.  I see on the bottoms of the pages that they came from a document called "The Legacy Ornamental Milling System" (Sections 5 & 6).  What are the labels for the other "Sections"?  Perhaps some of them will be useful to us as well.Again, Thanks for sharing.Mac-Original Message->From: Curt George >Sent: Oct 9, 2014 6:11 PM>To: Legacy-Ornamental-mills-group >Subject: Re: New Owner of a Woodchuck MA - Need documentation>>Hello all>These are not form the wood chuck, but do offer some more info that has >not come up so far.>I hope you enjoy them, I will keep on looking in my files for any good info.>C.A.G.



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RE: Which model to get?

2014-10-06 Thread mwfoscue
Hi Russ,Great to hear from a formerly "lurking" member.  Your points are well taken - shopo space is a premium for most of us - so why not make the Legacy "earn its keep and space taken up".By the way - I went to www.ynotwood.com and got messages that the site was a "protected" one?  Saw a number of tabs but was unable to "access" anything.  Some pages seemed to contain nothing anyway - more like placeholders.  I am sure that several members of The Group would like to see your website.  Is there a way you can "let us in"?Thanks again for your input/comments.  Please continue to chime in on the various topics that come up.Have a Great week.Mac-Original Message-
From: Russ Veinot 
Sent: Oct 6, 2014 1:08 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Which model to get?






David,As a 1200 owner for about 12 years, I can tell you that space is important.  The 1200 takes up as much or more space than any other machine in my shop.  To justify the larger machine, I have figured out how to utilize the space of the machine.  Since most of the time, any project on the legacy can be done on a less than half of machine capacity.  So I built a router table that sits on the rails at the other end.  If I need to make a long project, I lift the table out and put it aside. When done, I put it back.  Now I don’t have a separate router cabinet taking up space.  You could do the same thing with almost any bench top machine or even use the space for a removable moxon vice or workbench top. Russ VPaddock lake, WIwww.yknotwood.com  From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2014 12:00 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: Which model to get? Thanks for all the reply's, I can tell this will be a good group to turn to for help.-David








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RE: Ornamental Mills Around the World

2014-09-25 Thread mwfoscue
Tim,I agree with Bill.  Thanks to the map, I know there are a couple LOM owners within about 100 miles of me (I'm in northern Virginia, USA about 30 minutes south od Washington, DC.)  I think the closest owner is in Culpeper, VA.  I'll keep my eyes out for an app that would be a suitable replacement.Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Sep 25, 2014 6:07 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Ornamental Mills Around the World








 

 
  
 






Thats a shame it was nice too see where every
one on the group was i hope we can find another

Bill

 





From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Friday, 26 September 2014
6:58 AM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills
Around the World



 



Well, 

It looks like the map feature us unofficially dead.  I cannot get a hold
of the developer.  His email does not bounce, but he has not replied to my
inquiries.  There is no way at this time to recover the data.  I will
look for a replacement service or code to generate our own map that is in our
control.  If anyone knows of an online service, please let me know,

-Tim
















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Re: 1200 for sale in Indiana

2014-09-21 Thread mwfoscue
I can't tell the difference - how do you tell?I did notice that it appears to have the ball-bearing(?) headstock/spindle bearing vs the Delrin version.  Am I correct?Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Sep 21, 2014 10:32 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: 1200 for sale in Indiana








You both failed to mention it's a model 1000, not a 1200.  :-)
 
-Tim
 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  mwfos...@earthlink.net 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 6:44 
  PM
  Subject: Re: 1200 for sale in 
  Indiana
  
  Eight 
  Magnate router bit boxes (that all look empty) - only three router bits in 
  photos - one in router (along with a collet extender) and 2 in photos.Has 
  a mobility kit (casters) and rail raise/lower acme screws.Has the template 
  following bushing at back of Y-axis carriage.The person is not mush of a 
  "salesman" - gives audience almost NOTHING when it comes to description.  
  What's up with that?!?!  Must not want to sell it - imho.Mac
  

  

  -Original 
Message- From: CURTIS GEORGE Sent: Sep 
21, 2014 7:59 PM To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: 1200 for sale in 
Indiana 



Hello 
everyone. If you or anyone who you know are looking with two days to go 
ON this auction , this might be something that you may want to look at? 
;-)
C.A.G.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGACY-1200-ORNAMENTAL-MILL-/261600324715?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce8982c6b




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  Have 
  one to sell? Sell 
now

LEGACY 
1200 ORNAMENTAL MILL




  
  

  
  

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information

chiroin (206 )
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feedback



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this seller
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Item 
condition:
Used



“The 
7' Legacy 1200 Mill has only been used 2-3x. The gears have some oxidation 
but all works well. ”... Read more


Time 
left:
2d 
00h (Sep 
23, 2014 17:41:18 
PDT)






Starting 
bid:
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Item 
location:
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Ships 
to:
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Re: 1200 for sale in Indiana

2014-09-21 Thread mwfoscue
Eight Magnate router bit boxes (that all look empty) - only three router bits in photos - one in router (along with a collet extender) and 2 in photos.Has a mobility kit (casters) and rail raise/lower acme screws.Has the template following bushing at back of Y-axis carriage.The person is not mush of a "salesman" - gives audience almost NOTHING when it comes to description.  What's up with that?!?!  Must not want to sell it - imho.Mac-Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Sep 21, 2014 7:59 PM
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: 1200 for sale in Indiana

Hello everyone. If you or anyone who you know are looking with two days to go ON this auction , this might be something that you may want to look at? ;-)C.A.G.http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGACY-1200-ORNAMENTAL-MILL-/261600324715?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce8982c6bMouse over image to zoomHave one to sell? Sell nowLEGACY 1200 ORNAMENTAL MILL| Add to watch listSeller informationchiroin (206 )100% Positive feedback Follow this sellerSee other itemsAdChoiceItem condition:Used“The 7' Legacy 1200 Mill has only been used 2-3x. The gears have some oxidation but all works well. ”	... Read moreTime left:2d 00h (Sep 23, 2014 17:41:18 PDT)Starting bid:US $850.00[ 0 bids ] Place bid Enter US $850.00 or moreAdditional coverage available  Add to watch listAdd to collectionFree local pickup100% positive feedbackShipping:Free Local Pickup | See details Item location:Kokomo, Indiana, United States Ships to:Local pick-up only



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Router bits - Great info & another possible source

2014-09-16 Thread mwfoscue
The Group's been rather quiet - so I thought I'd share my recent experience. I just had a phone conversation with the owner of a machining company.  Was talking to him about pneumatic drum sanders - they made one that I own and I had a few questions.  I came to find out that they also manufacture cutting tools - specifically router bits.  They can/will even make "special"/custom bits if needed. )I don't know any details.) He shared with me that all their bits are MADE IN AMERICA.   I requested he take a look at the Magnate site and see how they compared to his product line.  I also suggested he contact Andy @ Legacy - about possibly becoming a supplier of Andy's CNC bits.All that said, I am sufficiently impressed with their product that I own that I want to share their info with The Group.  If you are wanting/needing cutting tools/bits (most all are straight cutters right now.) check them out.At their Home page, click the "Product Information" tab - then go to the right-most block, it has this icon and reads: "Use of Router Bits"      Click on the "Downloads" link.  That brings up a VERY good document about router bits.  LOTS of good info in it - be sure to print it out & read.Here is their link:  http://www.toolmastersllc.comThey are based in Rockford, ILHave a Great week.Mac"Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."   (Thomas Jefferson)"Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."   (Thomas Jefferson)



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RE: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale.

2014-09-04 Thread mwfoscue
Thanks for the input, Max.  I assume you put the band around the outside of the shank - adjusting its placement so that the bit is ~1/16" from bottomed out as pointed out by Radar Roger (RR).  His technique of using a 1/2" grommet/o-ring has you dropping it down INTO the router's collet vs putting it around the shank.  I am sure both work equally well.  I've used the o-ring but will have to now try the ortho-band method if I can get some.  How do the bands hold up to the heat that builds up on the bit during a day's work?  Do they heat-fuse to the shank?Mac-Original Message-
From: MAX LATHAM 
Sent: Sep 4, 2014 8:43 AM
To: legacy 
Subject: RE: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale.




Hi,For retaining the height of the router bit or stand off, if you wish, I've found the little bands used by folks with dental braces work just fine and each bit can have its own! And can be finely adjusted. Usually the orthodontist receptionist will give you a large bag and then the price IS right, too. Or con a kid out of a bag.maxFrom: rhp...@googlemail.comTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: Router "Extreme Extension" on saleDate: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 10:20:39 +0100





Hi Guys
When you put your cutter in make sure that you bottom the bit on the inside 
base of the XX and then bring it out about 1/32” to 1/16” that also reduces 
transmitted vibration.  One trick that Bob at Router Tech suggested is to 
put a little rubber grommet in before the cutter, that works also.
 
Another little point which happens to annoy me is how many of you folk seem 
to think there are such things as RPMs. There is no such thing it is simply 
Revolutions Per Minute. So whether it is one RPM or or thousands of the little 
beggars they are just good old simple RPM. 
 
I feel better now because I see many American turners in You Tube videos 
and my Australian mate adulterating the English language, see below.
 
RegardsRadar Roger


 

From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 9:10 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale
 

Hello and good morning everyone. 

If I may, there is one more thing that should be thrown into 
the pot, (so to speak.) 
When chucking up any router bit (extension or not) you need to 
make sure that the bit is seated in the collect, I know that I played it un-safe 
in the past trying to get the most depth out of a plunging cut by extending the 
bit to much, this can be dangerous . When setting the router bit you need to 
make sure that the bit is down inside the collect but not all the way down,there 
is a shanfer are the bottom of the bit (where the shaft and bit meet) that may 
get in the way of getting the good seating you need, If you seat/set, the bit 
and then raise the bit a slight about to make sure the shansfer is not 
interfering with the seat.  "When Ive used my XX, IN the past,and if I get 
vibration,  I just loosen the collect and play with the seating of the bit 
a little, then tighten it back down to remove slop, sometimes the playing with 
the seating of the bit or XX is all that is needed to remove the vibration. ( I 
agree that the speed needs to be looked at as well, Just trying to get a fuller 
view of a potential problem. thats all.) ;-)   Have a good 
day,Everyone.
C.A.G.







Sorry my mistake I 
forgot to mention rpms I just know to slow the big ones down in fact I always 
start on the slowest speed of my router whatever bit I put in then work the 
speed up to what I think it needs and any bit over 2 inches i don’t use the XX 
those big bits especially like 3inch dia is impossible to use with the XX its 
just too dangerous. And yes your right about checking run out on bits as well 
checking both for run out is a good idea
Bill
 


From: 
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
mwfos...@earthlink.netSent: Thursday, 4 September 2014 11:24 
AMTo: 
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: Router "Extreme Extension" on 
sale
 


Bill,Thanks for the feedback.  
A question - really meant as a point of safety/info for those that may not know 
it:When you installed a "large diameter" bit into the Xtreme Xtension(XX) 
and got the vibrations - did you REMEMBER TO DIAL DOWN THE RPMs?  If not, 
that - combined with the "extended" shaft and larger diameter of the bit - can 
all work together to create the vibration.I hear you as regards runout 
on the XX.  Keep in mind too, that router bits have been known to be (or 
get) slightly less than perfect when it comes to runout/balance.  So what 
I'm saying is the XX may not always be the culprit - it may be a combination of 
factors.  So check everything if you have vibrations - to include ensuring 
you are not running the bit past the manufacturer's maximum recommended 
speed.  At previous "Woodworking Shows", Woodline (one of the 
catalog/on-line company booths) used to give out a nice adhesive backed

Re: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale

2014-09-04 Thread mwfoscue
Point well taken re: rpm - "guilty" as charged.  I honestly never gave it a thought - but you are correct, and I do appreciate you bringing it up.  Similarly, it always "deer" (1 or more).  We are never too old to learn.  Thanks.Mac-Original Message-
From: Roger P 
Sent: Sep 4, 2014 5:20 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale







Hi Guys
When you put your cutter in make sure that you bottom the bit on the inside 
base of the XX and then bring it out about 1/32” to 1/16” that also reduces 
transmitted vibration.  One trick that Bob at Router Tech suggested is to 
put a little rubber grommet in before the cutter, that works also.
 
Another little point which happens to annoy me is how many of you folk seem 
to think there are such things as RPMs. There is no such thing it is simply 
Revolutions Per Minute. So whether it is one RPM or or thousands of the little 
beggars they are just good old simple RPM. 
 
I feel better now because I see many American turners in You Tube videos 
and my Australian mate adulterating the English language, see below.
 
RegardsRadar Roger


 

From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 9:10 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale
 

Hello and good morning everyone. 

If I may, there is one more thing that should be thrown into 
the pot, (so to speak.) 
When chucking up any router bit (extension or not) you need to 
make sure that the bit is seated in the collect, I know that I played it un-safe 
in the past trying to get the most depth out of a plunging cut by extending the 
bit to much, this can be dangerous . When setting the router bit you need to 
make sure that the bit is down inside the collect but not all the way down,there 
is a shanfer are the bottom of the bit (where the shaft and bit meet) that may 
get in the way of getting the good seating you need, If you seat/set, the bit 
and then raise the bit a slight about to make sure the shansfer is not 
interfering with the seat.  "When Ive used my XX, IN the past,and if I get 
vibration,  I just loosen the collect and play with the seating of the bit 
a little, then tighten it back down to remove slop, sometimes the playing with 
the seating of the bit or XX is all that is needed to remove the vibration. ( I 
agree that the speed needs to be looked at as well, Just trying to get a fuller 
view of a potential problem. thats all.) ;-)   Have a good 
day,Everyone.
C.A.G.







Sorry my mistake I 
forgot to mention rpms I just know to slow the big ones down in fact I always 
start on the slowest speed of my router whatever bit I put in then work the 
speed up to what I think it needs and any bit over 2 inches i don’t use the XX 
those big bits especially like 3inch dia is impossible to use with the XX its 
just too dangerous. And yes your right about checking run out on bits as well 
checking both for run out is a good idea
Bill
 


From: 
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
mwfos...@earthlink.netSent: Thursday, 4 September 2014 11:24 
AMTo: 
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: Router "Extreme Extension" on 
sale
 


Bill,Thanks for the feedback.  
A question - really meant as a point of safety/info for those that may not know 
it:When you installed a "large diameter" bit into the Xtreme Xtension(XX) 
and got the vibrations - did you REMEMBER TO DIAL DOWN THE RPMs?  If not, 
that - combined with the "extended" shaft and larger diameter of the bit - can 
all work together to create the vibration.I hear you as regards runout 
on the XX.  Keep in mind too, that router bits have been known to be (or 
get) slightly less than perfect when it comes to runout/balance.  So what 
I'm saying is the XX may not always be the culprit - it may be a combination of 
factors.  So check everything if you have vibrations - to include ensuring 
you are not running the bit past the manufacturer's maximum recommended 
speed.  At previous "Woodworking Shows", Woodline (one of the 
catalog/on-line company booths) used to give out a nice adhesive backed chart 
that had recommended max & min speeds listed for various router bits - based 
upon their size.  Folks may find that chart helpful for bits that they have 
but don't know the brand.  Next time you order from them (www.woodline.com) 
ask if they have any and if they'd include one in your 
order.G'day!Mac







  -Original 
  Message- From: Bill Bulkeley Sent: Sep 3, 2014 7:42 PM To: 
  legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: Router "Extreme 
  Extension" on sale 
  Great 
  tool the Xtreme Xtension I use them I have 3 one in my router table router and 
  one in each of my 2 mills . the only fault no, limitation might be the better 
  word is that bits over 2 inches dia
  You 
  can get vibration problems when you take heavy cuts but that is a very minor 

RE: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale

2014-09-03 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,Thanks for the feedback.  A question - really meant as a point of safety/info for those that may not know it:When you installed a "large diameter" bit into the Xtreme Xtension(XX) and got the vibrations - did you REMEMBER TO DIAL DOWN THE RPMs?  If not, that - combined with the "extended" shaft and larger diameter of the bit - can all work together to create the vibration.I hear you as regards runout on the XX.  Keep in mind too, that router bits have been known to be (or get) slightly less than perfect when it comes to runout/balance.  So what I'm saying is the XX may not always be the culprit - it may be a combination of factors.  So check everything if you have vibrations - to include ensuring you are not running the bit past the manufacturer's maximum recommended speed.  At previous "Woodworking Shows", Woodline (one of the catalog/on-line company booths) used to give out a nice adhesive backed chart that had recommended max & min speeds listed for various router bits - based upon their size.  Folks may find that chart helpful for bits that they have but don't know the brand.  Next time you order from them (www.woodline.com) ask if they have any and if they'd include one in your order.G'day!Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Sep 3, 2014 7:42 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale











 

 
  
 






Great tool the Xtreme Xtension I use them I have 3 one in my router table router
and one in each of my 2 mills . the only fault no, limitation might be the
better word is that bits over 2 inches dia

You can get vibration
problems when you take heavy cuts but that is a very minor problem the  Xtreme
Xtension is for reach so by the time the bit is too big for it, its big enough
on its own to reach

I’d be buying one if I didn’t
already have 3.one point I find is they work so much better if you use a dial indicator
and make sure they are running as true as possible when you install them in the
router

Bill









From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Roger P
Sent: Thursday, 4 September 2014
4:17 AM
To:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Router "Extreme
Extension" on sale





 







Hi Mac





I don’t
work for either Woodpecker or Router Technologies but I used to represent both
companies here in the UK. Now as the Xtreme Xtension was originally built for
me to solve a problem I had in the UK market I know that is a good price. By
the way there is no E on the front of Xtreme or Xtension, it is reserved for
when you have bought one and you go E it works like they said!





Cheers
Radar Roger 









 







From: mwfos...@earthlink.net 





Sent: Wednesday, September 3, 2014 6:40 PM





To: LOM - Tim 





Subject: Router "Extreme Extension" on sale









 









I subscribe to Woodpecker Tools' eClub
newsletters.  I just received the latest Sale ad - where one of the
"On Sale" items is the "ROUTER TECHNOLOGIES EXTREME
EXTENSION" that
several folks use with their LOM.  The price seems to be a fairly good
deal.

Check this out:   http://www.woodpeck.com/eclubspecials.html

(Note: I do not work for them nor do I have any vested interest/relationship
with them.  All I know is that Woodpeckers makes high quality products -
right here in America - NOT China!)

Enjoy.
Mac

"Those who beat their swords into
plowshares will plow for those who did not."
(Thomas Jefferson)














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Router "Extreme Extension" on sale

2014-09-03 Thread mwfoscue
I subscribe to Woodpecker Tools' eClub newsletters.  I just received the latest Sale ad - where one of the "On Sale" items is the "ROUTER TECHNOLOGIES EXTREME EXTENSION" that several folks use with their LOM.  The price seems to be a fairly good deal.Check this out:   http://www.woodpeck.com/eclubspecials.html(Note: I do not work for them nor do I have any vested interest/relationship with them.  All I know is that Woodpeckers makes high quality products - right here in America - NOT China!)Enjoy.Mac"Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who did not."(Thomas Jefferson)



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Re: Input Needed

2014-08-12 Thread mwfoscue
Tim,Please keep The Group going - don't let Google drop it.With the manual LOM's being out of production, this Group is a major help to us current owners. I know it will also be of value to us when we go to "retire" (sell/pass on) our machines - since a newby owner will relish having a Group to turn to for "support" that they won't get much of from Legacy. (I am NOT slamming Legacy - they have moved on in another direction.)By the way, if you have had a chance to upload/post some of all that info we got from Legacy, can you let us know how to access it.  I'll assume we will need to log in to The Group in order to view it.  I am OK with that - in fact, it should be that way - in my opinion.Thank you for all you do/have done for The Group.Sincerely,Mac-Original Message->From: Tim Krause >Sent: Aug 12, 2014 3:42 PM>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>Subject: Re: Input Needed>>Please keep the input coming,  Ironically, advice is oly coming from members>that have posted before.  I will gladly accept input via my personal e-mail>address.  I'm still gathering information, and will respond globally to the>emails.>>-Tim



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Re: 1000 ex for sale

2014-08-11 Thread mwfoscue
Gary,So sorry to hear that you have an ailing relative and need to "downsize" your shop - especially that you feel you need to let go of your Legacy Mill.  My hat's off to you for being willing to do that for "family" - may God Bless you for it.I realize you may not want to "part out" your machine.  But as long as you have a good "starter mill" to sell - one without all the whistles & bells, you may be able to sell the basic Mill AND the "whistles & bells" separately and clear more money in the process.Will you consider selling me any/all of the "not standard issue" 
indexing plates (meaning ones above and beyond the one that all machines
 came with)?  Also, if you have the .25 reduction and 2X multiplier 
gears, I'd be interested in them as well.I'll appreciate you considering my request and I wish you the best in your dedication to your family member.Have a Great week.Mac-Original Message-
From: Gary Moshofsky 
Sent: Aug 11, 2014 1:48 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: 1000 ex for sale






I find 
I need to move for a few years to care for an ailing relative and I won't have 
room for this—or most of my big tools—so rather than storing it I'd rather sell 
it. It has most if not all of the available change gears, a Legacy motor drive, 
a rotary table, a few router bits, and a custom metal stand with a metal 
drust chute. No router. I'm in Portland Oregon.
 
$1200. 









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CNC "Creation"?

2014-08-06 Thread mwfoscue
Check this creation out.  A guy in the Greensboro, NC area made it on his "home-made"(?) CNC Router unit.Here is a link to his CraigsList posting - in case you want to ask him questions:http://greensboro.craigslist.org/tls/4544691493.html(I really like this "maze" - it looks great.)Mac 



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Re: Question: Mill head to toe or Toe to head?

2014-07-22 Thread mwfoscue
Roger,Check this map (If mill is in a Red area, mill head to toe.  If mill is in Blue area, mill toe to head.)  As for women - they too are expected to follow the rules - and most likely will.  For Volvo drivers - depends on where they are.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right-_and_left-hand_traffic#mediaviewer/File:Countries_driving_on_the_left_or_right.svgMaybe you and/or Bill can clarify something I've "wondered" about:  I 
turn on a motor in the N. hemisphere and it turns clockwise.  When I 
ship it to Bill, when he turns it on, it will turn counter-clockwise unless he affixes it to a "Down-under counter-current converter" - 
right?    ;-)Cheers!Mac-Original Message-
From: Roger P 
Sent: Jul 22, 2014 5:06 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Question: Mill head to toe or Toe to head?







Hi Mac
If the rules of the road apply what is the deal for Volvo drivers and come 
to think about lady drivers, where do they start?
Cheers
Euro Roger


 

From: mwfos...@earthlink.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 12:52 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: Question: Mill head to toe or Toe to 
head?
 

Roger 
& Bill,It's my understanding the "Rules of the Road" apply.  If you 
drive your car on the right side of the road you are supposed to mill from right 
to left (head to tail).  On the other hand - if you are in a location where 
one drives their "carriage" on the wrong 

left side of the motorway - you are expected to mill from left to right (tail to 
head).  ;-)Mac




-Original 
  Message- From: Roger P Sent: Jul 21, 2014 
  5:54 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: 
  question 
  
  
  
  
  Hi Bill & Tim
   
  When I started out with Legacy I was told if you lived in the northern 
  hemisphere then start at Headstock, in the southern hemisphere start at the 
  Tailstock but if you lived on or near the equator then you could start in the 
  middle!Cheers Euro Roger
  
  
   
  
  From: Tim Krause 
  Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 8:59 PM
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Subject: Re: question
   
  
  Head to tail for no other reason than that's how I was taught from the 
  videos. 
   
  -Tim
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Bill 
Bulkeley 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 5:21 
AM
Subject: question
 
I have a question I was wondering when you all 
turn spirals do you machine from the headstock to the tails stock or from 
the tail stock to the headstock
I have no reason for asking this other than 
just curiosity
i have done both ways with no problems, but not 
on the same spiral because of obvious back lash problems
Bill -- You received this 
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Re: Question: Mill head to toe or Toe to head?

2014-07-21 Thread mwfoscue
Roger & Bill,It's my understanding the "Rules of the Road" apply.  If you drive your car on the right side of the road you are supposed to mill from right to left (head to tail).  On the other hand - if you are in a location where one drives their "carriage" on the 


	
	
	
	wrong




left side of the motorway - you are expected to mill from left to right (tail to head).  ;-)Mac-Original Message-
From: Roger P 
Sent: Jul 21, 2014 5:54 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: question









Hi Bill & Tim
 
When I started out with Legacy I was told if you lived in the northern 
hemisphere then start at Headstock, in the southern hemisphere start at the 
Tailstock but if you lived on or near the equator then you could start in the 
middle!Cheers Euro Roger


 

From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 8:59 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: question
 

Head to tail for no other reason than that's how I was taught from the 
videos. 
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Bill 
  Bulkeley 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 5:21 AM
  Subject: question
   
  I have a question I was wondering when you all 
  turn spirals do you machine from the headstock to the tails stock or from the 
  tail stock to the headstock
  I have no reason for asking this other than just 
  curiosity
  i have done both ways with no problems, but not 
  on the same spiral because of obvious back lash problems
  Bill -- You received this 
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Re: Improving Mill Base

2014-07-19 Thread mwfoscue
Brandon,I own a Shopsmith and they have a very well engineered retractable wheel set.  The casters in the OEM kit are "ok".  However, you can probably modify them with better wheels.  They even sell replacement casters that perform very well.  Search their website or call them for all the details (their Customer Service Reps are EXCELLENT!).  They are designed to allow you to step on a lever that puts the casters in any one of three positions: 1. Raised off floor - so machine rests on its fixed feet/base;  2. Lowered to raise machine up about a quarter of an inch;  3. Lowered to raise machine up about a half inch (allows you to roll over small "obstacles" like wood chips, floor cracks, bumps, slow kids, etc.)Here is a link to the OEM casters on Shopsmith's site:http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/pl_casters.htmI feel that with "Joe Biunno/Bill Bulkeley ingenuity" you can get the Shopsmith casters to solve the mobility part of your challenges.  As for Bill's recommendations - I agree.  Figure out exactly where you will want the Mill's "Duty Location" to be.  Mark the 4 corners/leg positions, and move the Mill aside.  Snap a chalkline diagonally from corner to corner.  At the intersection place a brick or block of wood that is about 2" high.  Get a 4 foot (or longer) level.  Place one end of level on brick/block - then swing it to the four Mill "leg" locations - measuring how far level is from floor at all four spots.  You now know which foot is the highest, lowest, and in-betweens.  You can now do the math to figure out how much you will need to build up the one, two, or three leg spots to have the Mill's feet ALL resting on the same plane.  Note: rather than making the "buildup" permanent - you may  want to fabricate 1, 2, or 3 "shim blocks" that you can temporarily "attach" to the floor using double-sided tape.  Just be sure you account for the added thickness of the tape and LABEL each with which spot it goes on.NOTE: If you have (or a friend has) a rotary laser you don't need the 4' level.  Just put laser on a block at the intersection of the diagonals. (On block because it's easier to measure when you are ~6" to 12" off the floor than right down there in the 1/2" to 3/4" area.)  Then turn laser on and take readings on a ruler placed vertical at all four leg locations.  Then do the math, build-up, etc, as described above.I hope the above is "clear as a bell" and helps you solve a challenge.Mac>From: Bill Bulkeley >Sent: Jul 19, 2014 9:07 PM>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>Subject: Re: Improving Mill Base>>if you have the height in your shop have you considered mounting you mill >vertical an idea i believe curt had at one time>or perhaps making mounting points in the floor all level i did that in my >old shop wouldn't matter what the floor is like then the mill would be level>and you can still move it for room just set it up on the level points when >you want to use it>Bill>- Original Message - >From: "Brandon Khoury" >To: >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2014 10:43 AM>Subject: Improving Mill Base>>>I am looking for ideas on improving the base of my 1000ex. There are a >couple of goals I wish to accomplish.>>First,  my shop is in the basement of a 117 year old Victorian.  I don't >know how long ago the basement floor was poured,  but it is uneven due so >settling.  The center of the floor is higher than the areas around the >walls. So,  my first goal is to stiffen up the mill to reduce twisting along >the long rails.>>Second,  space in the shop is limited and the base takes up a lot of real >estate. Adding some storage would be nice,  if it doesn't make the mill so >heavy the it is impossible for one person to move.>>Third, and probably the most difficult goal to achieve,  is a way to >raise/lower the casters when the they are not in use. Similar to a hybrid >table saw.  I imagine there will need to be support feet in the center of >the unit when it is not being moved around.  I will need them to be >adjustable to accommodate the floor,  but I will need them to lift up off >the ground when the casters are lowered. I hope the makes sense>>Any comments,  questions, ideas are welcome.  I'm not to the point at which >I am ready to start the hands on portion of this project.  I have a few >other builds that are ready first. But,  I would like to start the designing >stage.>>Thanks,>Brandon



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Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600

2014-07-13 Thread mwfoscue
Thanks for the explanation. So what you are saying is the the two gears can be "swapped" - Drive to lead and lead to drive?  Thanks.  Don't bother further researching the Mill or its set-up for me.  I don't have one nor do I intend to get one.Did you get a chance to view the video?Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jul 13, 2014 10:43 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600








The gear that would go on the main drive gear is swapped with the gear on 
the leadscrew.  So instead of the lead screw turning 8 times and the 
spindle turning once, the spindle would turn 8 times and the leadscrew 
once.  There was a gear kit sold as the lathe attachment that had a lead of 
.039" if I recall.  Again, I would need to look that one up.  My 
memory is failing at the moment. 
 
-Tim


  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  mwfos...@earthlink.net 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 7:36 PM
  Subject: Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, 
  Iowa asking $600
  
  Tim,Thanks 
  for the info - I figured you would contribute some good info. I do have one 
  question.In your reply, you said "The bonus of the plastic set is they 
  where reversible.  This enabled some small pitches."   What do 
  you mean by "reversible?  The metal gears I've seen don't have a "correct 
  way" and a "wrong way" for installing - thus I'd term them "reversible" 
  because They can be flipped over when installing.The second part of my 
  question is about your follow-on comment  "This enabled some small 
  pitches,"  How did that work?Thanks for clearing it up.Here 
  is a cool, somewhat off topic, link.  
   http://www.youtube.com/embed/BISrGwN-yH4If the guy can 
  do this with a carrot, we should be able to make a similar device on the 
  Legacy.  Has anyone done it?  Anyone want to try - -  video the 
  results. (I couldn't carry a tune if you gave me the big bucket to put it 
  in.  So count me out.)Mac
  

  
  -Original 
Message- From: Tim Krause Sent: Jul 13, 
2014 10:09 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: 
Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600 



You are seeing correctly.  They where 1/4" thick gears made from 
cast acrylic.  A direction gear was not an option.  I have made 
plastic gears for my model 200 and I will say they are quite to 
operate.  So far none of them have failed, but they have not seen much 
action.  The bonus of the plastic set is they where reversible.  
This enabled some small pitches, I don't recall off the top of my head what 
they where.  I could look it up if you are really curious. 
 
-Tim


  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  mwfos...@earthlink.net 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:33 
  PM
  Subject: Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux 
  Falls, Iowa asking $600
  
  Am 
  I seeing it right?  Appears that the gears are "plastic". (I know 
  someone will provide the "correct" term here.  One has had the 
  protective paper remover - show it to be red.)What do Group 
  Members have to say about that?Mac
  

  

  -Original 
Message- From: Begat Sent: Jul 13, 2014 
12:12 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600 
Hello,A rare 600 EXLhttp://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/tls/4552786940.htmlThis 
machine is almost  worth it for the PC router and the bits.  



  








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Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600

2014-07-13 Thread mwfoscue
Tim,Thanks for the info - I figured you would contribute some good info. I do have one question.In your reply, you said "The bonus of 
the plastic set is they where reversible.  This enabled some small pitches."   What do you mean by "reversible?  The metal gears I've seen don't have a "correct way" and a "wrong way" for installing - thus I'd term them "reversible" because They can be flipped over when installing.The second part of my question is about your follow-on comment  "This enabled some small pitches,"  How did that work?Thanks for clearing it up.Here is a cool, somewhat off topic, link.   http://www.youtube.com/embed/BISrGwN-yH4If the guy can do this with a carrot, we should be able to make a 
similar device on the Legacy.  Has anyone done it?  Anyone want to try - -  video the results. (I couldn't carry a tune if you gave me the big 
bucket to put it in.  So count me out.)Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jul 13, 2014 10:09 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600








You are seeing correctly.  They where 1/4" thick gears made from cast 
acrylic.  A direction gear was not an option.  I have made plastic 
gears for my model 200 and I will say they are quite to operate.  So far 
none of them have failed, but they have not seen much action.  The bonus of 
the plastic set is they where reversible.  This enabled some small pitches, 
I don't recall off the top of my head what they where.  I could look it up 
if you are really curious. 
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  mwfos...@earthlink.net 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:33 PM
  Subject: Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, 
  Iowa asking $600
  
  Am 
  I seeing it right?  Appears that the gears are "plastic". (I know 
  someone will provide the "correct" term here.  One has had the protective 
  paper remover - show it to be red.)What do Group Members have to say 
  about that?Mac
  

  

  -Original 
Message- From: Begat Sent: Jul 13, 2014 12:12 
PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600 
Hello,A rare 600 EXLhttp://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/tls/4552786940.htmlThis 
machine is almost  worth it for the PC router and the bits.  

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Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600

2014-07-13 Thread mwfoscue
-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jul 13, 2014 10:09 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600








You are seeing correctly.  They where 1/4" thick gears made from cast 
acrylic.  A direction gear was not an option.  I have made plastic 
gears for my model 200 and I will say they are quite to operate.  So far 
none of them have failed, but they have not seen much action.  The bonus of 
the plastic set is they where reversible.  This enabled some small pitches, 
I don't recall off the top of my head what they where.  I could look it up 
if you are really curious. 
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  mwfos...@earthlink.net 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:33 PM
  Subject: Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, 
  Iowa asking $600
  
  Am 
  I seeing it right?  Appears that the gears are "plastic". (I know 
  someone will provide the "correct" term here.  One has had the protective 
  paper remover - show it to be red.)What do Group Members have to say 
  about that?Mac
  

  

  -Original 
Message- From: Begat Sent: Jul 13, 2014 12:12 
PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600 
Hello,A rare 600 EXLhttp://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/tls/4552786940.htmlThis 
machine is almost  worth it for the PC router and the bits.  

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Re: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600

2014-07-13 Thread mwfoscue
Am I seeing it right?  Appears that the gears are "plastic". (I know someone will provide the "correct" term here.  One has had the protective paper remover - show it to be red.)What do Group Members have to say about that?Mac-Original Message-
From: Begat 
Sent: Jul 13, 2014 12:12 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Rare 600 EXL in Sioux Falls, Iowa asking $600

Hello,A rare 600 EXLhttp://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/tls/4552786940.htmlThis machine is almost  worth it for the PC router and the bits.  



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Re: Wood Data Base

2014-07-06 Thread mwfoscue
That third one would "stump" the "experts"!MacFrom: "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
Sent: Jul 6, 2014 1:19 PM

  

  
  
20 years ago when I was making pens, I would use any
  wood I could come across.  My 3 favorites:
  toobough Fir  (AKA 2X4)
  Road kill (mimosa log found on side of road)
  Grape stump ( I wrote it with the grape vine)
  Wonder if that would be 3 of my 5 for the year?  LOL
  
  Mike
  OK 
On 7/6/2014 11:37 AM,
  mwfos...@earthlink.net wrote:


  
  Curtis,
Like Bill said - "Great find!" - thank you for sharing.
I did want to add/point out (in case you have not seen it
yet) that on one of the ages I saw where they said, for US
residents, the US Forest Service will identify "mystery
wood" for you - up to 5 ID's per year.  I don't remember
exactly where on the site I saw it.  But as we all read
through the site (which will take HOURS) - I'm sure we'll
discover lots of neat & useful info.
I have "Bookmarked" the site - a definite "Go To" site for
woodworkers!
Thanks again!
Mac
   
  
  From: Bill Bulkeley 
  
  Sent: Jul 6, 2014 11:29 AM
  
  
  
  


  Great find Curt 
  Bill


  
- Original Message
  - 
From: CURTIS GEORGE

To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills

Sent: Sunday, July
  06, 2014 9:14 PM
Subject: Wood Data
  Base


http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/
  

  Good morning Everyone, while doing
  some research on a wood that Ive not heard of
  before " Paulownia " I found this web site.
  Ive been
reading it for over an hour now, and every topic
(wood) is detailed and has a lot of information
that Ive not seen on other web sites.
  
  
  I guess
you can say, So far that Ive read, I really like
this site. So Im passing the word on to you all.
(this web site is worth keeping for reference
material.) at least in my book.   (happy reading
everyone.) ;-)
  
  
  C.A.G.

  

  









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Wood Data Base

2014-07-06 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,Like Bill said - "Great find!" - thank you for sharing.I did want to add/point out (in case you have not seen it yet) that on one of the ages I saw where they said, for US residents, the US Forest Service will identify "mystery wood" for you - up to 5 ID's per year.  I don't remember exactly where on the site I saw it.  But as we all read through the site (which will take HOURS) - I'm sure we'll discover lots of neat & useful info.I have "Bookmarked" the site - a definite "Go To" site for woodworkers!Thanks again!Mac -Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Jul 6, 2014 11:29 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Wood Data Base








great find curt 
Bill

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  CURTIS 
  GEORGE 
  To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
  
  Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2014 9:14 PM
  Subject: Wood Data Base
  
  http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/
  
  Good morning 
  Everyone, while doing some research on a wood that Ive not heard of before 
  " Paulownia " I found 
  this web site.
  Ive been 
  reading it for over an hour now, and every topic (wood) is detailed and has a 
  lot of information that Ive not seen on other web sites.
  
  I guess you can 
  say, So far that Ive read, I really like this site. So Im passing the word on 
  to you all. (this web site is worth keeping for reference material.) at least 
  in my book.   (happy reading everyone.) ;-)
  
  C.A.G.








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Re: Old 1500 for sale on E-bay

2014-07-04 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,Thanks for the "heads up" for all of us.  Unfortunately, when I copied/pasted the link you provided, I got a msg from eBay saying the item could not be found - try searching using other words.  Any way, I went to eBay and found TWO Legacy Ornamental Mills listed there.  The first one listed is the one you were showing us.  The second Mill (in Hillsdale, NJ) appears to have spent some time in New York - in Joe B's shop - judging by the somewhat unique mod. that has been applied (A rather ingenious one at that.  Just like what we expect from Joe.)   <|;-)Here is a cut/paste of the page showing them:http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Legacy+Mill&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XLegacy+Ornamental+Mill&_nkw=Legacy+Ornamental+Mill&_sacat=0I hope this one works for everyone that tries it.HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY to ALL the Americans in The Group!  (And for "English Roger, whom we have not heard from in quite a while, we thank your forefathers for what they did - so that we can enjoy what we have here in America!) Mac-Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Jul 4, 2014 7:43 PM
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: Old 1500 for sale on E-bay

An old steely mill for saleThe price is a little high, but there is a lot there, If you ask me it looks a little short to be a 1500?  But this machine dose have a lot of possibility's here. ;-)Happy Independence day everyone.C.A.G.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wood-Ornamental-Milling-System-/281374882289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41833ff9f1








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Re: spindle motor mod...done

2014-07-01 Thread mwfoscue
Remember the "L'il Abner / Dogpatch" cartoon strip?  They had that saying: "What's good for General Bullmoose is good for the USA!"? (Of course back then Gen Bullmoose was supposedly referring to General Moteors.)Well, that's the way Google is evolving - and it SCARES me!  They have become HUGE and growing every day - in ALL aspects of our lives.  I have ceased telling folks to "Google it." - instead I tell them to "Bing it" (Goog's closest competition - F they have any.)  Another great search company is DuckDuckGo - because they DO NOT track/record your activity.In any case, Tim, thanks for the reply.  Have an enjoyable and SAFE Independence Day!Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jul 1, 2014 10:42 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: spindle motor mod...done








You got me confused with someone that has an once of 
control.  As the owner/admin of the list I'm lucky to still be able to see 
email addresses of the group!  I'm still waiting for the day google shuts 
down the groups for good. 
 
-Tim
 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  mwfos...@earthlink.net 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2014 6:39 
PM
  Subject: Re: spindle motor 
  mod...done
  Joe,Something really "weird" just 
  happened.  When I accessed my emails, The "From" address on this one read 
  "p-61_pi...@comcast.net".  I 
  thought P-61 - never heard of it; P-51, yes; I wonder who thos "newbie" to The 
  Group is.  When I opened it, I found it was from you.  I now can't 
  seem to get it to repeat what I saw.Were you a pilot? P-61?Just 
  curious how this occurred.  Perhaps Tim can shed some light on this 
  one.



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Re: spindle motor mod...done

2014-07-01 Thread mwfoscue
Joe,Something
 really "weird" just happened.  When I accessed my emails, The "From" 
address on this one read "p-61_pi...@comcast.net".  I thought P-61 - 
never heard of it; P-51, yes; I wonder who thos "newbie" to The Group 
is.  When I opened it, I found it was from you.  I now can't seem to get
 it to repeat what I saw.Were you a pilot? P-61?Just curious how this occurred.  Perhaps Tim can shed some light on this one.I have enjoyed AND Appreciated your recent posts re: the spindle motor mod.  I saw your "shout out" to me. :-)Your
 mod is fantastic looking - and I am sure it will perform as well as it 
looks - kinda like Sandra Bullock or Katherine Zeta Jones.Have a Happy and SAFE 4th!!!Mac-Original Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Sent: Jul 1, 2014 6:07 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: spindle motor mod...done

there are never any dumb questions!...took a piece that i had cut out from my tailstock mod, down to my local home depot to see if there was a match...they carry the rust-oleum brand of paints...rust-oleum "sunrise red", #7762, nails it, in my opinion...but to make things even a bit easier, i first sprayed the bare metal with rust-oleum "gloss apple red", #249124...this is one of those paint and primer combo spray paints eliminating spraying on a dedicated primer...the gloss apple red is close to the legacy color, but is just a shade off...so i then finished up with the sunrise red... and if i did miss a spot, you cannot tell...if you pick up a can, i would be interested to know what your opinion of the color match might be...joeOn Tuesday, July 1, 2014 5:38:25 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:






Dumb question Joe, How did you match the paint color?
 
-Tim
 




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Re: Center Finder

2014-06-26 Thread mwfoscue
This is a link to the piece I have for my engineer's square:http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000437/867/STARRETT-Centerhead-For-12-Square.aspxMac-Original Message->From: Bill Bulkeley >Sent: Jun 26, 2014 7:49 PM>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>Subject: Re: Center Finder>>I personally prefer and use this type i just replace the pencil with a punch >easily made and can do any thickness depending on how long you make the jig>Bill>>- Original Message - >From: >To: "Legacy-Ornamental-Mills" >Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 9:28 AM>Subject: Center Finder>>I received a wood craft flier today and this caught my eye. >http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2086007/45170/Blokkz-The-Squid-Centering-Punch.aspx >Has anyone seen or used one.  Looking at it I find one draw back and that is >the diameter for the wood used 2 3/8 diameter, but I am thinking I might be >able to expand that slightly by turning a couple legs and drilling a hole in >the new leg so it can slide over the existing leg, then make an extension >that will slide over the center rod.>>Jeff Becker



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Re: Center Finder

2014-06-26 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,I'm with you on this one - except you can make your own fairly easily (and cheaply).  That "squid's" accuracy depends of it being perfectly perpendicular to the plane of the object being marked. Not always easy to do.For objects that are round I use my engineer's square that has the 45 degree piece that can replace the 90 degree head.  This puts the "ruler" piece straight through the center of a round disc.  Draw a line in the center area, rotate the disc 90 to 110 degrees and mark the middle area again.  Where the lines intersect is dead center for that disc.The other one I like/use is the one that is made of a plastic and looks similar to this one:   http://www.busybeetools.com/products/CENTER-FINDER-WOODWORKING.htmlOf course if you have the engineer's square with the 45 degree head, there is no need to buy the above plastic one. (Mine was given to me.  I prefer the plastic one for small objects and the engineer's square for the larger discs)Mac-Original Message->From: Bill Bulkeley >Sent: Jun 26, 2014 7:49 PM>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>Subject: Re: Center Finder>>I personally prefer and use this type i just replace the pencil with a punch >easily made and can do any thickness depending on how long you make the jig>Bill>>- Original Message - >From: >To: "Legacy-Ornamental-Mills" >Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 9:28 AM>Subject: Center Finder>>I received a wood craft flier today and this caught my eye. >http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2086007/45170/Blokkz-The-Squid-Centering-Punch.aspx >Has anyone seen or used one.  Looking at it I find one draw back and that is >the diameter for the wood used 2 3/8 diameter, but I am thinking I might be >able to expand that slightly by turning a couple legs and drilling a hole in >the new leg so it can slide over the existing leg, then make an extension >that will slide over the center rod.>>Jeff Becker



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RE: legacy design kit

2014-06-12 Thread mwfoscue
Max,No, I have been searching for one for well over a year.  Still no luck.Why, do you have one you are no longer using and are willing to part with?Thanks.Mac-Original Message-
From: MAX LATHAM 
Sent: Jun 12, 2014 9:56 AM
To: "legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com" 
Subject: RE: legacy design kit




Did you ever get a set?max lathamFrom: bulke...@mmnet.com.auTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: legacy design kitDate: Mon, 12 May 2014 14:35:53 +1000Has anybody out there got the sheets with all the router bit shapes and numbers of the bits on it that comes with the legacy design kit .my kit I got second hand doesn’t have this sheet and I would like to get one again Not the plastic sheets the paper ones If so could someone scan it and either post it here or email it to meI started to design some stair balustrades  and found out I didn’t have itI have to keep going to the router cupboard to check if I have the bits I’m tracing and the number on them it’s a pain  Bill



	
		
			

			
		
		
			
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Re: Site I stumbled upon

2014-06-11 Thread mwfoscue
Joe,You are "spot on" (as Euro-Roger would say.  Haven't heard from him in a while) with comments re: selling your no-longer-needed equipment to someone else.  I'd be MUCH more incline to buy a well-used Mini-Cooper than I would a used "Biunno-mobile" (a one-of-a-kind creation) for many reasons -as you point out.I do like several of the site owners' tips as well as home-made "accessories" he has there.Does anyone know the site owner?  Is he a "lurker" on this site?  If so, I sure wish s/he'd chime in and share the knowledge.By the way - the second thing I did was bookmark his home page - first thing being to go a "cut" of the URL so I could paste it into my msg to The Group.  :-)Mac -Original Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Sent: Jun 11, 2014 7:19 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Cc: mwfos...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Site I stumbled upon

mac...i have seen this site previously and also thought it was well done and informative...but there is one point this person is making that i tend to disagree with...and to note that i have seen this point in the legacy group discussion as well...and that is the idea of building a machine capable of what the legacy can do rather than just buying a legacy...granted, maybe a person can build a better piece of equipment( i doubt it) but in the end, if you ever need to sell it, who might buy it without thinking they are buying a homemade item with no track record...if any of us that currently have a legacy, want to sell it and perhaps move up to a cnc piece of equipment, i doubt there would be much trouble selling their legacy...i do applaud a person's desire to make and create a piece, but perhaps they are not looking down the road and into the future to possibly give themselves better options as to what to do with their equipment...anyway, a bit of rambling here but it was what i thought when i first saw that website originally...like i said, there is some excellent stuff on that site and thanks for providing the link...i only found it by randomly looking for anything regarding ornamental turning and forgot to bookmark the site...joeOn Wednesday, June 11, 2014 6:31:17 PM UTC-4, Va Oak wrote:Tim, et al,I stumbled upon this ( http://benchmark.20m.com/ ) a few minutes ago - while researching a router table on CraigsList.  Click on the "Tools" tab on the left side - then scroll down the list.  You will find this person is a Legacy Ornamental Mill owner (or was).The site owner has done a great job building his website.  I find it very well done and interesting.Tim - perhaps you know whose site this is.  Please tell them "well done".Enjoy.Mac









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Site I stumbled upon

2014-06-11 Thread mwfoscue
Tim, et al,I stumbled upon this ( http://benchmark.20m.com/ ) a few minutes ago - while researching a router table on CraigsList.  Click on the "Tools" tab on the left side - then scroll down the list.  You will find this person is a Legacy Ornamental Mill owner (or was).The site owner has done a great job building his website.  I find it very well done and interesting.Tim - perhaps you know whose site this is.  Please tell them "well done".Enjoy.Mac



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Re: tailstock mod completed

2014-06-09 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,I highlighted Joe's write-up (below) where he states that the "tightening handle" for the headstock lock is underneath - in 6 o'clock position.  I believe I noticed part of the locking knob/lever in one of the pics.  I also wrote Joe and asked him to post a couple pics from some different angles of the unit.  It's an ingenious mod. - I like it.Mac-Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Jun 9, 2014 7:50 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: tailstock mod completed

Hay Joe!I like your tailstock modification, I hope it stays true for you.If you want any tips or ideas concerning  your Head-stock motor drive, Please ask.  I personally cant wait to see how you end up doing your modifications. For the smoothest surface  cut on round spindles the spindle motor is a must , (In my book)Enough said on that topic. How much extension do you get with your new tail stock? and do you still have a lock on that tailstock? I did not see one in your photos.Keep up the good work.I will talk to you more latter.C.A.G.completed the tailstock mod...except for a coat of legacy red paint, which will have to wait as i am in the middle of a job and need the use of a live tailstock asap...first tailstock purchased on ebay was a bust as i thought it had a #2 morse taper, it had a #1 taper...ate that one and put it into the "hope to use in the future" file...as fate would have it a woodworking neighbor had done in a delta 46-700 lathe headstock pulley set up and was tossing the machine...picked up that piece for zero money and the tailstock seemed perfect for how i wanted to set it up on the legacy...the machine gods were smiling on me that day!...and the headstock spindle has a 1"-8 thread, might have ause for that soon...and again, using the second legacy tailstock cross bar piece from my donor machine took the fear out of the "what if i screw it up" situation...began by chopping up the delta tailstock piece... cut, gring, sand,etc...squared it all up...layed it down on its side and took some measurements...all seemed to line up well...then took to taking out a section of the back of the legacy crossbar...and not touching the front as i wanted to keep a good amount of the strength of the crossbar...used a double ended #2 morse taper alignment piece into the headstock and the new tailstock just to be sure all was in line on all planes...clamped the tailstock to the crossbar and began drilling and tapping four holes to attach it all together...might consider welding it all together if i feel it slips out of alignment...time will tell...welded a cross bar on the bottom, backside of the crossbar to get back the stiffness of the crossbar...might change the hand wheel to a sliding-pin type if i feel there is interference with the y carriage going over it...the tightening handle is at the bottom in the 6 o'clock position...going to be nice to have that #2 morse in the tailstock...can definitely use a live center here and there...and other pieces as well for odd ball set-ups...next mod seems to be a dc motor drive for the headstock, since i found a very nice dc motor in the "pile" of stuff from my swap meet travels...just hope it works and is not fried...comments and suggestions are always welcome...thanks...joe




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Re: tailstock mod completed

2014-06-09 Thread mwfoscue
OH NO!  "Say it ain't so, Joe!"  You cut a piece of one of your Legacy's!!  All this time you have been posting here you kept reiterating that you were being VERY careful to NOT do anything to the mills' parts.  Because you wanted to be able to put them back to their "original"  configuration.  I remember all that you talked about when assembling "Mill-zilla".Appears that you have realized that perhaps one Mill will not ever make it back to "original".  :-)Interesting mod that you made here.  Can you provide a couple more pics - taken from both ends as well as from the underside.  I'd like to see the installation from those other angles.Thanks for sharing. Mac-Original Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Sent: Jun 9, 2014 5:13 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: tailstock mod completed

completed the tailstock mod...except for a coat of legacy red paint, which will have to wait as i am in the middle of a job and need the use of a live tailstock asap...first tailstock purchased on ebay was a bust as i thought it had a #2 morse taper, it had a #1 taper...ate that one and put it into the "hope to use in the future" file...as fate would have it a woodworking neighbor had done in a delta 46-700 lathe headstock pulley set up and was tossing the machine...picked up that piece for zero money and the tailstock seemed perfect for how i wanted to set it up on the legacy...the machine gods were smiling on me that day!...and the headstock spindle has a 1"-8 thread, might have ause for that soon...and again, using the second legacy tailstock cross bar piece from my donor machine took the fear out of the "what if i screw it up" situation...began by chopping up the delta tailstock piece... cut, gring, sand,etc...squared it all up...layed it down on its side and took some measurements...all seemed to line up well...then took to taking out a section of the back of the legacy crossbar...and not touching the front as i wanted to keep a good amount of the strength of the crossbar...used a double ended #2 morse taper alignment piece into the headstock and the new tailstock just to be sure all was in line on all planes...clamped the tailstock to the crossbar and began drilling and tapping four holes to attach it all together...might consider welding it all together if i feel it slips out of alignment...time will tell...welded a cross bar on the bottom, backside of the crossbar to get back the stiffness of the crossbar...might change the hand wheel to a sliding-pin type if i feel there is interference with the y carriage going over it...the tightening handle is at the bottom in the 6 o'clock position...going to be nice to have that #2 morse in the tailstock...can definitely use a live center here and there...and other pieces as well for odd ball set-ups...next mod seems to be a dc motor drive for the headstock, since i found a very nice dc motor in the "pile" of stuff from my swap meet travels...just hope it works and is not fried...comments and suggestions are always welcome...thanks...joe




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Re: indexing accessory completed

2014-06-08 Thread mwfoscue
Whew!  Thank you!  I guess I should have read THIS one first.  You have cleared it up.Thanks.Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jun 8, 2014 8:02 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: indexing accessory completed








I attached the wrong file.  This one is correct. 
 
-Tim
 



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Re: indexing accessory completed

2014-06-08 Thread mwfoscue
Tim,I'm "cornfused".  I guess if you only want one start, you index the hole labeled "1" in your drawing.  If you want two starts, you index the "1" and the "2" holes (180 degrees apart).  Now here is where I'm lost: If I want three starts, I index the "1" and two others - 120 degrees apart.  The drawing does not show the "3"s 120 degrees apart.  Similarly, the four and five starts have me feeling like "I don't understand indexing".Can you "un-cornfuse" me?Thank you.Mac-Original Message-
From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Jun 8, 2014 7:57 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: indexing accessory completed








I've got an attachment of an interesting index plate used in the 1920's for 
indexing 1,2,3,4,5 starts on  a piece.  I'm wondering how error free 
does it look?
 
This is used like the killinger lathe Joe showed at the front of this 
thread.  The holes are numbered for the indexes.   I think I see 
a little potential for trouble free spirals, but I need to thik about it some 
more.  
 
Any omments woud be appreciated. 
 
-Tim




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Re: Fluted table pedestal

2014-06-06 Thread mwfoscue
I agree - very nice.  Too bad they had you paint it.  It looks like it would have been beautiful oiled or stained.  How long did it take you?Another question:  Your "follower" is basically a point - but what keeps the router "unit" from acting like a pendulum?  If you don't keep it perpendicular to the "point of cut", won't you end up with a "squirrelly" flute?  For that long curve, wouldn't it have been easier to have the follower have two points (~1" apart) - which would keep the cutter in a fixed orientation.Mac-Original Message-
From: Ccm Ccm 
Sent: Jun 6, 2014 11:35 PM
To: "legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com" 
Subject: Re: Fluted table pedestal

Nice jobOn Friday, June 6, 2014, Okla Mike (Liltwisted)  wrote:

  


  
  
As most of you know, I have stayed strong to the
  Wood Chuck that I purchased new in 1993.  There are many things
  the WC can do, because of its raised head and tails stock, that
  the legacies can not.  Here is an example of a versatility that I
  accomplished last night.
  
  Let's start with a phone call and a text from a customer.  Here is all I got to make the bit and
  as well, all I had to go by for the job.
  



They decided to have it made out of pine.    After the glue-up,
  I took it to the WC and used my saw on a pattern to get the rough
  cut and then to the Shop Smith for the final touches.  That left
  me with the smooth stock ready to be fluted.


  
  I then decided that there was not enough width to flute from the
  side using a Y axis template follower.  So set out to use a
  template on a table with a follower on a sliding box that housed
  my router.



I used the same pattern that was used to cut the post


  
  Lined up the pattern to the follower and bit and drew a line.


  
  Then I off set the line and pattern by 1/4" and secured it to the
  table that was clamped to the rails.  


  
  Next I secured follower stops to be able to have a uniform stop
  and start of all flutes.


  
  Next I set up the crank handle indexing.  I used a 4 inch pitch,
  so 16 turns would give me one full revolution.


  You can see here how nicely it is coming out.


  
  Pretty nice looking for a piece of pine.  


  
  Total time from glue up to making a pattern and quick sanding the
  flutes is 4 hours.  It's a good thing it was pine and only $30 of
  wood in it.  I charged $250 bare wood.  
  
  Hope you enjoyed a little look at working outside the "Y"
  
  Mike
  OK 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

  




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Re: Legacy Mill 1200 for $800 in Sacramento

2014-06-04 Thread mwfoscue
There may be a reason for the rather low asking price.  No mention of anything "included" - so if you don't see it, don't assume other items will be part of the $800 deal. I do notice:  1.  The two threaded split-nuts on the X and Y axis Acme screws are "incomplete".2.  There is an "expandable" chuck on the headstock - can't tell brand/model.3.  A fair bit of rust on the Acme screws. (What's easiest/best way to get it off such a long rod?4.  A red regular dodecagon (?) indexing plate. What's story of that? Tim, did you make this one?5.  No measurement scale/tape on the Y-axis (can't tell on the X-axis.6.  Looks like the standard chuck on the router - no "extender".Lastly:  That's a nice looking leg he/she has standing on the Mill (in the far left pic) - the one on the right - with the tapered spiral.   Has anyone in The Group made one like it?  Are there "instructions" on the Legacy site?  Any other "tips" to share regarding making a leg like this one?Thanks.Mac-Original Message- From: Begat 
Sent: Jun 4, 2014 7:55 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Legacy Mill 1200 for $800  in Sacramento

Hello All,I have never seen a 1200 offered for so low.  Makes me wonder about the parts not in evidence in the pictures.http://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/4504537703.htmlBegat




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Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World

2014-05-26 Thread mwfoscue
"Back to the Future"?  Tim, you ought to make a movie.
Mac
___

-Original Message-
>From: Tim Krause 
>Sent: May 26, 2014 9:24 PM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World
>
>:-)
>
>I'm just ahead of everyone else's time!
>
>-Tim
>
>- Original Message - 
>From: "Milt Engelke" 
>To: 
>Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 5:46 PM
>Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World
>
>
>Tim
>Is your clock (date) off a bit.  Iım still in May and your clock is
>reading July??  Ive been on the road for a couple of weeks but didnıt know
>I was gone that long.
>
>
>On 7/25/14, 10:20 AM, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
>
>>The membership list is private.  The list does not support geographical
>>locations.  Your best bet is to post a message looking for California
>>members.  There's a couple members I can think of, but I'll have to wave
>>privacy issues as well.
>>
>>-Tim
>>
>>- Original Message -
>>From: "Tom Dotta" 
>>To: 
>>Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2014 6:58 AM
>>Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World
>>
>>
>>> Morning Tim
>>>  With all due respect to privacy. Is there a member list available? If
>>> this is a no no I understand. If not I would be interested in 'local'
>>> members contacts, meaning central Calif. I only personally know one
>>> other owner, Marcus in San Jose Ca. and do not think he is a member.
>>> CheersTom Dotta Hollister Calif.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:28 PM, Tim Krause 
>>wrote:
>>> > Don Butler has added a marker to our guestmap.
>>> > Marker message: 1200XL (Extra Long)
>>> > -Tim

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RE: Honeycomb router bits

2014-05-24 Thread mwfoscue
Did anyone notice the bits have Amana Tool "Part #'s"?  The first one in the video is #46308.Just FYI in case you have your "favorite" Amana Tool Co router bit sales outlet.  Check to see if they carry or can get these specialized bits.   I did not see any mention of them being used to cut WOOD; cardboard, aluminum honeycomb, and plastics? - Yes.  Wood? - No.If you live in the USA - may you have an Appreciative Memorial Day!  Be SAFE!Mac--Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: May 24, 2014 10:34 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Honeycomb router bits

I agree it looks good for template work when cutting from the side and perhaps making ribbon spiralsBill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Okla Mike (Liltwisted)Sent: Sunday, 25 May 2014 3:31 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: Honeycomb router bits I like how it is friendly to paper.  Bottom, up-cut and upper, down-cut is not a new idea but there is a greater twist angle for better shearing.  Need to look into that for sure.  This would be great for some Y-axis following like on a square leg or a square twist.MikeOKOn 5/24/2014 12:18 PM, CURTIS GEORGE wrote:Hello I just found a new router bit web site, They have some nice bits, Things that Ive not seen before. What do you think of this honeycomb cutting router bit?Perhaps I could be use on the Legacy? There are few videos to also look at.Just something to think about.Have a happy Memorial day weekend everyone. C.A.G.http://www.toolstoday.com/c-517-honeycomb-cutting-router-bits.aspx   Solid Carbide ZrN Coated Honeycomb Cutting Router Bits Solid Carbide ZrN CoatedHoneycomb Cutting Router Bits   Show Picture 1   Show Picture 2   Show Picture 3   Show Picture 4   Show Picture 5   Show Picture 6   Show Picture 7   Ready to Buy?Free Shipping on orders $35 and up*   Price:$74.96  See Options Below  Bookmark and Share  (No reviews)Be the first to Write a Review  Zirconium Nitride (ZrN) Coated, 6 Flute Up-Spiral Cutting Edge for Superior Chip EjectionDesigned for cutting Aluminum Honeycomb Panel (AHP), Bioboard, Carbon Fiber, Falconboard and Honeycomb cardboard.Benefits of ZrN Coating:·Creates incredibly precise detail work·Optimized flute geometry and low Total Indicated Runout (TIR) guarantees clean cuts, essentially eliminates sanding and reduces chatter when used with low TIR spindles·Creates a harder and tougher cutting ceramic over carbide edge, allowing for a prolonged cutting edge life and helps to prevent the build-up/galling of material in the flutes while cutting·PVD ceramic hardcoat designed for soft, gummy and abrasive materials·High aspect ratio for single pass deep-reach cutting·High flute volume supports high feed rates and chip loads. Has the ability to run and/or be spun much faster than uncoated tools·Flute geometry optimized for cutting sign foam, sign board, hardwoods, thermoplastics and phenolic compositesSolid carbide honeycomb cutting router bits provide a burr-free top and bottom finish, providing that the workpiece is thicker than 0.250”. The number of flutes, along with the extremely sharp cutting edges makes these bits perfect for cutting composite honeycomb material, milling/pocketing including Aluminum Honeycomb Panel (AHP), Bioboard™, Carbon Fiber, Falconboard® and Honeycomb cardboard.   Cardboard Coffee Table CNC ProjectCardboard coffee table CNC project with honeycomb cutting bits   view-zoom-closeup-cabinetView closeup images of CNC Cardboard Table ProjectChoose Your Solid Carbide ZrN Coated Honeycomb Cutting Router BitsDBdB1BallBearingFluteLBrandTool No.Our PriceReady to Buy?3/81-1/43/81/4No63Amana Tool46308$99.95$74.96Quantity: 1Note: For optimal cutting results use mist lubricant system or air cooling.Note: For full effect requires minimum material thickness of 3/8"Note: Honeycomb router bits will NOT produce a knife-cut edge in paper cardboard.You May Also Want...	  Solid Carbide ZrNCoated Honeycomb Hogger CNC Router Bits  Solid Carbide ZrN Coated Honeycomb Hogger CNC Router Bits Price: $67.46 - $127.46  Solid Carbide Spiral'O' Flute, Plastic Cutting Up-Cut & Down-CutRouter Bits  Solid Carbide Spiral 'O' Flute, Plastic Cutting Up-Cut & Down-Cut Router Bits Price: $24.49 - $63.71  Solid Carbide Spiral'O' Flute, Aluminum Cutting Up-Cut & Down-CutRouter Bits  Solid Carbide Spiral 'O' Flute, Aluminum Cutting Up-Cut & Down-Cut Router Bits Price: $24.71 - $97.46



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Re: tailstock mod?

2014-05-19 Thread mwfoscue
Joe,This link "has your name written all over it" - something you would buy.  There is a link within the Craigs posting.  Be sure to cut & paste it into your browser - it takes you to a very interesting "story about the modification of the saw".  Is this guy your brother?  I think you two may be "brothers from a different mother".  :-)http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/4475804651.htmlThey don't make 'em like this one any more.Enjoy!MacOriginal Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Sent: May 19, 2014 4:12 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: tailstock mod?

while i am waiting for some items to be delivered to complete the indexer accessory to the legacy, i was wondering if anyone has made an improvement to their tailstock...i currently have two of the lever/cam types that leave a bit to be desired in my opinion...does that lever ever malfunction?...which would be a big issue if it did in the middle of a cut, obviously...would also like a morse taper (preferably a #2) in it as well for things like live centers...or perhaps a drill chuck (?)...and a typical crank handle to apply pressure into the end of a workpiece would be nice...and a way to lock it down so it cannot loosen, much like on a typical lathe...been giving it some thought and there are some items on ebay that would seem to be an easy modification into the legacy tail stock cross bar...i am close to pulling the trigger on this and was interested if anyone had any previous experience or thoughts on this...thanks...joe



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Re: Legacy 900 in Boston asking $850

2014-05-18 Thread mwfoscue
They state "ELECTEIC SELF FEEDING"  BUT, there is no evidence of it visible in any photos.  LOTS of Indexing Plates though.  I'd LOVE to thane them. (Anyone have any they want to sell?)Mac-Original Message-From: Begat Sent: May 18, 2014 12:03 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Legacy 900 in Boston asking $850Hello All,There is a mill for sale in Boston, a 900.  The seller is asking 900, and it comes with bits, indexing plates, and it seems a linear motor.http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/4473332839.html



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Re: legacy design kit

2014-05-17 Thread mwfoscue
Tim,No file included or attached - please re-send.  Thanks.Mac===-Original Message-
From: "regal...@juno.com" 
Sent: May 16, 2014 10:42 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: legacy design kit

A long time ago I made this file that covers what is in the design kit.  It is for the groups benefit.  I'd assume not what Bill is looking for but interesting. -Tim  - Original Message -   From: mwfos...@earthlink.net   To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com   Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:34 PM  Subject: Re: legacy design kitMike,Yes, I am interested in getting a set of the Magnate Legacy Ornamental Mill router bit templates.I'm not in a hurry - so give The Group a  bit of time to reply back to you on this.  I assume you have a set of the "Originals"?  I have a couple sheets of the rectangular grid - unfortunately, none of the round sheets.  I was thinking I could probably take one of my sheets to a "printing shop" and have then produce a couple "tablets" of the graph paper. (Or better yet a Community College where they teach printing - could be a "project" for a student.  That way it would cost less.)Do you have an Epilogue laser cutter?  Thanks for the offer.Mac--Original Message- From: mike Sent: May 12, 2014 3:01 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: legacy design kit I attached the router bit profile dxf file, I can make the templates out of 1/8in plexiglass if anybody is interested let me know.On Sunday, May 11, 2014 11:35:53 PM UTC-5, aussiman wrote:>> Has anybody out there got the sheets with all the router bit shapes and > numbers of the bits on it that comes with the legacy design kit .my kit I > got second hand doesn’t have this sheet and I would like to get one again >> Not the plastic sheets the paper ones >> If so could someone scan it and either post it here or email it to me>> I started to design some stair balustrades and found out I didn’t have it>> I have to keep going to the router cupboard to check if I have the bits > I’m tracing and the number on them it’s a pain >> Bill



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Re: Gimp + Paint/Renovation Safety Warning

2014-05-16 Thread mwfoscue
Thomas,

GREAT hearing from a "lurker" - and THANK YOU for the tip on Gimp - I know we 
ALL appreciate the info - helps to "keep us safe online".
I normally don't chime in with a "Thanks"( Please assume all Group Members ARE 
thankful).

My primary reason for this note is to inform (or remind) you of the hazards of 
lead-based paint. I can assure you there is a 99.9% chance the paint on the 100 
yr old house has lead in it. If a contractor "disturbs" any area larger than, I 
think, 6 square feet, they have to be EPA "RRP Certified" and are required to 
do quite a bit to remediate the "hazards" from the paint (lead dust in the air, 
on the floor, etc.).  Believe me - this is a BIG DEAL!  Lowes just got fined 
half a million dollars because they had installers who did not meet the RRP 
requirements.  I do not think these EPA regulations apply to YOU doing the 
renovations (yourself) - however, the underlying dangers remain.  You need to 
take considerable cautionary steps to keep from "contaminating" yourself, your 
home and the surrounding landscape - to include proper disposal of the 
renovation debris.  
I don't want to scare you - just want you and fellow Group Members to be aware 
of the dangers & requirements that working on a building built before 1976(?) 
bring  with it. Please "Bing" "Lead-based paint" and "renovations" for more 
specifics. I think the "built before" date is 1976.

Mac
--

-Original Message-
>From: Thomas Ellis 
>Sent: May 16, 2014 1:28 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Gimp
>
>I tend to be a lurker here on the Legacy Board. I have a 1200.
>
>If you decide to download GIMP be sure to go to www.gimp.org to obtain 
>it. The current version is 2.8.10
>
>It you merely go to Google or Bing and type "gimp" then you will have a 
>lot of links that look official but that will download a virus or other 
>malware before loading in Gimp. Your anti-virus may catch these or may not.
>
>gimp.org is the real site.
>
>I have been a computer systems analyst since 1962...
>
>Beginning to implement a big change to my woodwork in my house this 
>coming week. I will post a shot when it is partially complete to show 
>you what I am doing. Nothing great, but the mill will make the project a 
>lot easier.
>
>I live in a little mining town in Appalachia (southeastern Ohio) and 
>bought a 100 year old house for 13K and fixing it in the Victorian 
>rendition... to a degree. The LOM makes some of the work easier..
>
>I have the rotary table, horizontal vice, vertical vice, circle cutter, 
>linear platform, all gear sets, pilaster dogs (4 sizes), z-axis, and the 
>portable (wheels) and drop cloth. And probably some things I have 
>forgotten since it is the middle of the night here.
>
>regards
>Thomas

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Re: Photography for LOM users

2014-05-14 Thread mwfoscue
Don,I'd like to speak for ALL of our LOM Group members and say "Thank you!"  for starting this thread - and sharing you years of experience. GREAT stuff!  We look forward to your future posts here!In order to keep the thread from being 20+ posts long, I ask that we all consider the above our "Thank you - Great job" to Don.  If folks have questions and more tips to add, by all means - reply back to Don's thread.  I don't know about the rest of the members, but when I see where another member has "Thanked" someone who posts/shared something with this Group, I consider that "Thanks" as our collective one.  Therefore, unless I have additional info/images/comments to add, I refrain from making "Ditto" comments - they make the threads become quite long - especially when the "You received this message because you are subscribed to..." paragraphs at the bottom of all our posts are not removed before we post our replies.Sorry, I guess my "2 cents' worth" became more like a "quarters' worth".Mac--Original Message-
From: Don Butler 
Sent: May 14, 2014 9:08 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Photography for LOM users

*As mentioned, I have experience in photography. I started many years ago (about 65 years to be more specific) with a plastic Brownie Hawkeye. In the years since I have used many cameras. I still have my old but still usable Speed Graphic press camera. I've been known to be an early adapter, jumping at every new idea and technology and now use a Nikon D5100 DSLR. That's Digital Single Lens Reflex. **The best thing about taking pictures with digital camera is their flexibility. Whether you use a cell phone, tablet or any other digital imaging device, the images can always be manipulated to make the most pleasing photos. **And that's why it is so good for folks who work wood. We often have a situation wherein the thing we want to photograph can't be moved to a studio setting or no studio-like situation is available, and we feel that taking a shot under work shop conditions will yield a poor result, so we fail to try.**What I'd like to offer to you is some suggestions for getting optimum photo results even when conditions seem to keep us from getting good pictures.**There are many good reasons for photo documents of our work. A very powerful reason is sales. Decent photos allow us to represent our work to potential buyers without having them visit our places of work.**Another reason is to share our work methods and ideas with fellow craftsmen.**And for personal reasons we might wish to have photos for our own enjoyment.**So, here is the first installment of a series that may help all of you to think about photos of the work you do and even of yourselves in ways that will provide the best images you can make.**First, obviously, is the camera. Regardless of the type, is it a film camera or a digital one? If its a film camera I want to urge you to consider getting a digital one. But if not, then the film images you take should be converted (Scanned) into digital files. My plan is to show how digital images can be worked to give really nice results, worthy of display to anyone or anywhere.**So you will need to have a computer (not necessarily a powerful one) and some software for managing digital images. I have the privilege of owning some very powerful software for that. (My wife is very strongly supportive of my endeavors.) Still, I also have quite a few other imaging programs that are actually free and a couple of them are very good at that. I would suggest a free program called GIMP and another one called IrfanView. Each one in their own ways are very good and it costs NOTHING to have both. I do. Paint.net is another one, Inpaint is another. Try doing a web search for Free Image software or similar words.**So the tools are one thing, but as you all know, the way the tools are used is more important. Both are vital to achieve good results. In my next posting on this subject I'll show some original photos and the end results after Post Processing, as we call it. Excellent images can be made of pictures taken under the most unlikely circumstances. **Pictures of your work while in process on your Legacy Mill with typical work shop disarray in the background can be worked to look like they were taken in a clean, white studio or on the beach or on a city street, if you wish.**No special gimmicks like Green Screen photography are necessary. **What is necessary? Learning how to do it. I claim, though, that it is well worth the time and effort. And it should involve little or no expense. **That will be enough for today. I'll try to post often and be as helpful in any way I can. **Feel free to ask specific questions. I'll do my best to answer.**Best regards,**Don "Dances With Wood" Butler**(Otherwise known as Don "Dances With Electrons" Butler)*-- You received this mess

Re: Woods suitable for Outdoor use, etc.

2014-05-13 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,Thanks for the shared info/history.  As far as I know, the big box home improvement stores DO NOT sell white oak. They ONLY sell Red oak (in addition to poplar, aspen, maple, cedar, and pine in N.Va.).I buy most all of my woods from lumber supply/specialty shops.  One I really like is Northland Forest Products.  They have sales outlets in Manassas and Troy, VA as well as Kingston, NH.   I occasionally will pickup some boards from the home centers - their locations are convenient.Mac---Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: May 13, 2014 8:56 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Woods suitable for Outdoor use, etc.

I too also thank you Mac. One short note here, although White Oak is a very good wood the out-door projects, Be careful, Red Oak is not a good wood for out-door projects and can easily be mixed up. One bit of Naval history, the first frigates that the US made were made out of a wood called Live Oak It was so hard that the USS Constitution was called Old Iron sides. Now this Live Oak was a tightly help secret for many years and after the age of the wooden ships was over it was all be forgotten. It turns out the Live Oak is a White Oak planted in the south what there are very little seasonal weather changes, Making all the growth rings very uniformed and close together, giving the wood its high straight and weather resistants . C.A.G. - Original Message -Thank you , I know this only a short list , but white oak is on the list and I was "discussing " it with a friend about its merits. You proved my point. On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 8:12 PM,  wrote: > The attached "chart" shows a variety of woods that are used for outdoor projects. A recent "Post"/Thread spurred discussion and many opinions and suggestions. I recommend you file this chart if you anticipate ever making things for outdoor use/exposure. (I hope ya'll can read the chart and are able to print it out.) > > Enjoy! > > Mac 



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Re: Woods suitable for Outdoor use, etc.

2014-05-13 Thread mwfoscue
Cole,

Thanks for the "feedback".
If you want a "prettier" version (in color) - the chart was an "insert" inside 
the front page of Wood magazine in Lowes last week.  

If price is a factor AND strength is as well, I agree with you - white oak 
"wins" (if it available where you live).  I think the chart covers all of the 
readily available woods suitable for outdoor use/projects - with the exception 
of a handful of "tropicals" that are found on high-end decks/projects (cumaru, 
cambara, tigerwood, etc.)  I don't consider these as "mainline" outdoor woods.

Mac
-


-Original Message-
>From: Cole Andrews 
>Sent: May 13, 2014 8:31 PM
>To: Legacy group 
>Subject: Re: Woods suitable for Outdoor use, etc.
>
>Thank you , I know this only a short list , but white oak is on the
>list and I was "discussing " it with a friend about its merits. You
>proved my point.
>
---

>On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 8:12 PM,   wrote:
>> The attached "chart" shows a variety of woods that are used for outdoor 
>> projects.  A recent "Post"/Thread spurred discussion and many opinions and 
>> suggestions.  I recommend you file this chart if you anticipate ever making 
>> things for outdoor use/exposure.  (I hope ya'll can read the chart and are 
>> able to print it out.)
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> Mac

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Re: 1200ex for sale

2014-05-13 Thread mwfoscue
Don,I want to first extend a prayer and get well wish for you if/when you do have that medical procedure.  In the meantime, good luck with whatever you decide you REALLY want to do with your LOM - whether it's to keep it or sell it.As for you comment/offer in your last paragraph:"I could offer some helpful advice to any who want to photograph their work for display."I, for one, would be very interested in any tips/pointers you would share that would improve my ability to take better photos.  I am sure a number of fellow members would as well.  So if you have the time, please do.Best Wishes.Mac--Original Message-
From: Don Butler 
Sent: May 13, 2014 7:15 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: 1200ex for sale

Friends,Downsizing the shop isn't exactly the issue. I could probably continue tokeep the mill where it is.The real point is *guilt*. I haven't been using it and I feel guilty havingsuch a great machine and NOT using it. In the past year I haven't actuallymade anything in my workshop because of a number of health issues. When Ifirst got the LOM I made lots of things and it made me happy. But now itjust sits there against the wall gathering dust and other things (leftoverpieces of plywood, folded drop cloths I didn't find a place for, etc.).I'm facing the possibility of yet another medical procedure that will keepme out of the shop again this year and I think of how much anotherwoodworker could do with it.So it would be nice if someone else could make use of it and make somegreat things with it.Turning this huge thing vertically scares the bejeebbers out of me. I can'teven think how it could be operated that way, but actually standing it uplike that would be like putting a bus on end, I would think!I won't die if I don't sell it, and if I do keep it I hope I can get theshoptime required to put it back to work. I have some pretty furniture inmind that would need the spirals and reeds that the LOM does so well.Thanks for your observations.I know the PDF I sent with my last message doesn't look like it, but I'm aprofessional photographer and I could offer some helpful advice to any whowant to photograph their work for display. I don't even have to be standingup to do that.Best regards,DonOn Tue, May 13, 2014 at 4:04 AM, CURTIS GEORGE wrote:> Hello and Good morning Don> That's the Real McCoy there. ;-)  Very nice machine, I like your mobility> shelf and wheels.> Dose your head stock have ballbearings or bushings in it?> I wish you luck on your sale of your machine, She is a real beauty, I wish> that I had a place for her in my shop, but I dont.> If you only need to down size your shop, I have been thinking for a long> time, of turning the LOM on its end, gears and headstock facing down and> tail stock straight up in the air. This would give you a much smaller> footprint, and just as long as you have the head room, WITH this idea you> have not lost any real work ability of the machine,Perhaps the  turn table> wouldnt work right?  As I said its just an idea that Ive been playing> around with. Its something to think about. ;-)>> Good luck> and Have a great day.> C.A.G.>> --> AS promised, here is a couple of photos of the LOM 1200EX. I had to get> the sheets of plywood and other stuff away from it to take the photos, but> the shop needed the reorganization anyway.> The attached is a PDF. It should open up for everybody, but if not, free> PDF readers are available on the Internet.>> Best regards,> Don "Dances With Wood" Butler



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Re: legacy design kit

2014-05-12 Thread mwfoscue
Mike,Yes, I am interested in getting a set of the Magnate Legacy Ornamental Mill router bit templates.I'm not in a hurry - so give The Group a  bit of time to reply back to you on this.  I assume you have a set of the "Originals"?  I have a couple sheets of the rectangular grid - unfortunately, none of the round sheets.  I was thinking I could probably take one of my sheets to a "printing shop" and have then produce a couple "tablets" of the graph paper. (Or better yet a Community College where they teach printing - could be a "project" for a student.  That way it would cost less.)Do you have an Epilogue laser cutter?  Thanks for the offer.Mac--Original Message-
From: mike 
Sent: May 12, 2014 3:01 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: legacy design kit

I attached the router bit profile dxf file, I can make the templates out of 1/8in plexiglass if anybody is interested let me know.On Sunday, May 11, 2014 11:35:53 PM UTC-5, aussiman wrote:>> Has anybody out there got the sheets with all the router bit shapes and > numbers of the bits on it that comes with the legacy design kit .my kit I > got second hand doesn’t have this sheet and I would like to get one again >> Not the plastic sheets the paper ones >> If so could someone scan it and either post it here or email it to me>> I started to design some stair balustrades  and found out I didn’t have it>> I have to keep going to the router cupboard to check if I have the bits > I’m tracing and the number on them it’s a pain  >> Bill



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Re: 1200ex for sale

2014-05-12 Thread mwfoscue
Don,Regarding comment on the first photo: "Router and junk underneath not included"I believe that you do have one item there that should be included (and mounted back on the Mill). There is a red sheet metal piece visible under the mill that is the other "half" of the gear train protection/safety cover.Just thought I'd point that out.  Good Luck!MacOriginal Message-
From: Don Butler 
Sent: May 12, 2014 10:43 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: 1200ex for sale

AS promised, here is a couple of photos of the LOM 1200EX. I had to get the sheets of plywood and other stuff away from it to take the photos, but the shop needed the reorganization anyway.The attached is a PDF. It should open up for everybody, but if not, free PDF readers are available on the Internet.Best regards,Don "Dances With Wood" Butler-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



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Re: legacy design kit

2014-05-11 Thread mwfoscue
Bill,Glad you brought up the subject of the Legacy Design Kit.  I'd love to get my hands on one.  If that is not possible, perhaps someone in The Group has the ability (or knows someone who does) to reproduce the Lexan/plastic (?) bit templates like what came in the no-longer-produced kit.  If we have enough Group Members interested is getting the plastic templates - their production may be economically feasible.I do know that you used to be able to get the CAD shapes/sizes from Legacy (and perhaps Tim?). Perhaps you can then print them out to do what you are wanting to do.You bring up a "beef" I have with the Magnate router bits:  On the few Magnate router bits I have, the plastic container/box they came in has a label with most of the bit's info on it.  HOWEVER! - the router bits only have "Magnate" etched on the shank - NO bit model number!  I HATE that!  Why don't they etch the bit's stock/model number on the shank?A related "beef":  Magnate has changed the Model numbers of a number of their bits.  I don't know why - nor have I seen a cross-reference table, where you can look up a bit you have and the table tells you its "equivalent" bit: "old to new" or new to old".  Does anyone have such a cross-reference table/list they can scan and post here? Can anyone explain why Magnate changed their model numbers?  All info anyone can share with The Group regarding Magnate's Legacy Ornamental Mill bits will be greatly appreciated.Thanks.Mac---Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: May 12, 2014 12:35 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: legacy design kit

Has anybody out there got the sheets with all the router bit shapes andnumbers of the bits on it that comes with the legacy design kit .my kit Igot second hand doesn't have this sheet and I would like to get one again Not the plastic sheets the paper ones If so could someone scan it and either post it here or email it to meI started to design some stair balustrades  and found out I didn't have itI have to keep going to the router cupboard to check if I have the bits I'mtracing and the number on them it's a pain  Bill



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Re: Any one want to trade?

2014-05-11 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,Referring to the "plot" - your increasing "value" of what you traded for reminded me of Jack.  He started out with a cow that quit producing milk.  He went to town and traded it for the "magic beans" - which eventually lead to Jack getting "The goose that laid golden eggs" and a "golden harp".  All that from what started out as a "dried up" milk cow - of no more use to Jack's mom.(No, I was not inferring that your "story of horse trading" was fictitious or a "fairy tale".  It is an interesting story, nonetheless.)Mac--Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: May 11, 2014 7:39 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Any one want to trade?

Mac I think I will take that, as a compliment,. ;-) Im sure that you are referring to my Classic writing stile. and NOT the context... being a fairy tail. I Hope? ;-) Thank you, C.A.G. - Original Message -	  Curtis, Your story reads like the old Fairy Tale - "Jack and the Beanstalk". LoLMac --- -Original Message- From: CURTIS GEORGE Sent: May 11, 2014 9:26 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: Any one want to trade? Good morning Bill the funny part of your question is YES I did. ;-) After that first trade, every time I serviced that factory the owner told me that I could take a few mis-shoots with me when I left, We/I must have had 30 Frisbee's in our basement for years,They are good entertainment for the kids and Do make Great place holders for paper plates for picnics .and out side party's. ("MAN" I really miss those days! ) C.A.G. - Original Message - Gee Curt and here’s me thinking you just made really really good bread lolol So when you got home did you flip one of the Frisbees over and eat the other loaf of bread off of it . Bill _From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of CURTIS GEORGE Sent: Sunday, 11 May 2014 7:12 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: Any one want to trade? Hello again everyone. This is a reply to MR. doughting Tomas. ( private e-mail to me.) A horse trade dose not have to be with only one person,and you dont always end up with exactly what you want on the first time,right off the bat. Let me explain, As I said my first lathe was traded for and the trade started off with a loaf a fresh made bread. but I hadnt planed on the lathe until latter. This is how it worked, or started-out. I was working at a fire protection company and was servicing fire equipment at the time. (A job that I loved, but paid very little $$$.) Any how I servced a bakery, and bought two loaf's of bead at there store. Then after I went to a small factory ,(they made rubber Frisbee's ) The owner of the company was talking to me, at my truck, and smelled the beard and wanted to know if I would sell one to him? I told him that I bought the bread for my girl friend and her little boy,but the kid might like a Frisbee better then a piece of bread? He told me that he had a big box of Frisbee's that were mis-shoots,( the colors were not right due to a color change in production,They were good Frisbee's but they could not be sold... ) I agreed and gave him the bead. Very happy with my trade, ;-) two stops latter. I went to a woodworking/cabinet shop. and they had the lathe,an old craftsman that was not used anymore. I traded him 6 Frisbee's and refilled a 20lb co2 bottle for him, for the lathe. (and life goes on! ) ;-) Ive done this type of trading a lot in the past. I give you something, and perhaps sometime latter you can re-pay the favor? But trading is more fun. I got a leather coat in turkey for A ship's ball cap, one Zipo lighter, and two cartons of American cigarettes. ( I dont smoke but I still bought my limit on the ships store... ) ;-) and I still have the jacket 30 yrs latter. ;-) As I said the offer is open to any and all. What do you have to trade??? (I am sorry I ran out of Frisbee's years ago, but? anything could be on the board. ) ;-p C.A.G. - Original Message - With 353 members in this group, Dose anyone Out-There, Want to do a horse trade with me on a 90 volt DC gear motor. What I have is a high tork slow RPM motor, I believe it will run fast enought to have no problem on the acme screw/ carriage drive system. I added one on my Legacy a few years ago. and although I made my unit run with a over sized gear and chain to pick up the speed of gearing,I now dont believe that it was necessary to do so, a direct drive coupling such as a Love-Joy coup. would work just fine, if you wanted to go there route. For those who dont know me very well, I have been acquiring tools this way for Years. (as a mater of fact, I got my first lathe with a trade that started o

Re: Any one want to trade?

2014-05-11 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,Your story reads like the old Fairy Tale - "Jack and the Beanstalk".  LoLMacOriginal Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: May 11, 2014 9:26 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Any one want to trade?

Good morning Bill the funny part of your question is YES I did. ;-) After that first trade, every time I serviced that factory the owner told me that I could take a few mis-shoots with me when I left, We/I must have had 30 Frisbee's in our basement for years,They are good entertainment for the kids and Do make Great place holders for paper plates for picnics .and out side party's. ("MAN" I really miss those days! ) C.A.G. - Original Message -Gee curt and here’s me thinking you just made really really good bread lolol So when you got home did you flip one of the Frisbees over and eat the other loaf of bread off of it . Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of CURTIS GEORGE Sent: Sunday, 11 May 2014 7:12 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: Any one want to trade? Hello again everyone. This is a reply to MR. doughting Tomas. ( private e-mail to me.) A horse trade dose not have to be with only one person,and you dont always end up with exactly what you want on the first time,right off the bat. Let me explain, As I said my first lathe was traded for and the trade started off with a loaf a fresh made bread. but I hadnt planed on the lathe until latter. This is how it worked, or started-out. I was working at a fire protection company and was servicing fire equipment at the time. (A job that I loved, but paid very little $$$.) Any how I servced a bakery, and bought two loaf's of bead at there store. Then after I went to a small factory ,(they made rubber Frisbee's ) The owner of the company was talking to me, at my truck, and smelled the beard and wanted to know if I would sell one to him? I told him that I bought the bread for my girl friend and her little boy,but the kid might like a Frisbee better then a piece of bread? He told me that he had a big box of Frisbee's that were mis-shoots,( the colors were not right due to a color change in production,They were good Frisbee's but they could not be sold... ) I agreed and gave him the bead. Very happy with my trade, ;-) two stops latter. I went to a woodworking/cabinet shop. and they had the lathe,an old craftsman that was not used anymore. I traded him 6 Frisbee's and refilled a 20lb co2 bottle for him, for the lathe. (and life goes on! ) ;-) Ive done this type of trading a lot in the past. I give you something, and perhaps sometime latter you can re-pay the favor? But trading is more fun. I got a leather coat in turkey for A ship's ball cap, one Zipo lighter, and two cartons of American cigarettes. ( I dont smoke but I still bought my limit on the ships store... ) ;-) and I still have the jacket 30 yrs latter. ;-) As I said the offer is open to any and all. What do you have to trade??? (I am sorry I ran out of Frisbee's years ago, but? anything could be on the board. ) ;-p C.A.G. - Original Message -With 353 members in this group, Dose anyone Out-There, Want to do a horse trade with me on a 90 volt DC gear motor. What I have is a high tork slow RPM motor, I believe it will run fast enought to have no problem on the acme screw/ carriage drive system. I added one on my Legacy a few years ago. and although I made my unit run with a over sized gear and chain to pick up the speed of gearing,I now dont believe that it was necessary to do so, a direct drive coupling such as a Love-Joy coup. would work just fine, if you wanted to go there route. For those who dont know me very well, I have been acquiring tools this way for Years. (as a mater of fact, I got my first lathe with a trade that started off with a loaf of Fresh made French bread from a local bakery ... and went on form there.) ;-) I have a number of motors, acquired from another trade a while back. (all the motors work.) So if any of you need a motor to run your Legacy This is your chance to get one cheap! No money, (for the motor, perhaps postage might be necessary depending... ?) So If you have something that you want to trade, Make an offer. things that I am looking for at this min. are , Linear slides, Z axis parts, Perhaps a used lathe chuck? Legacy left overs form an up-grade,Router bits??? STUFF LIKE THAT, So, If you have something, Just make an offer, Perhaps we can make a deal? the sky is the limit. (so to speak.) You can contact me via. E-mail curtgeo...@wowway.com or perhaps Here, depending how many people want to jump on in on this one. C.A.G. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+uns

Fw: Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

2014-05-09 Thread mwfoscue
For those who did not see the link to the referenced Kreg Tool Co. site, here it is:http://www.kregtool.com/files/newsletters/kregplus/june13.aspHopefully this link will be visible (and useful).Mac--Forwarded Message-
From: mwfos...@earthlink.net
Sent: May 9, 2014 12:49 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

Ark,I guess you have not seen my input to your earlier question.  In it, I stated that an excellent wood to use for outdoor projects was White Oak.  It is very water resistant, very strong, readily available, and reasonably priced - considering what you are getting. The above is not just my personal opinion (which is based on experience using various types of woods).  Check out this link - to an article from the Kreg Tool Company (They make the famous Kreg Pocket Hole Jig, among many other woodworking tools.).  They list several (4) woods that perform well in outdoor projects - with White Oak being one.  The first two they list (cedar & redwood) are nice looking when new but have a couple "issues".  Some being Do NOT paint cedar or redwood if it will be "out it the rain" - you will hasten its demise (it will rot prematurely).  Another is the need to use stainless fasteners - regular or galvanized fasteners will create ugly black streaking.  Cedar and redwood do not have the structural strength that white oak does.Just my two cents' worth - I hope it helps.MacOriginal Message-From: Arkady Paka Sent: May 8, 2014 3:20 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)Hi Don.Is white oak  better grade of wood, to consider leaving them open?Ark2014-05-08 0:59 GMT+03:00 Don Butler :>>> Lil Twisted,>>> I fill mine in the shop, too. It doesn't make them that much heavier.> If I used a better grade of wood, I might consider leaving them open.> I would have to think hard about filling the columns after installation,> for fear of making a mess on the entryway.>> Best regards,> Don "Dances With Wood" Butler



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Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

2014-05-09 Thread mwfoscue
Yes - that's the one.


-Original Message-
>From: jwb...@windstream.net
>Sent: May 9, 2014 8:26 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Cc: mwfos...@earthlink.net
>Subject: Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)
>
>I did not see the link you were referring to, but I am thinking this is the 
>link.http://www.kregtool.com/files/newsletters/kregplus/june13.asp
> mwfos...@earthlink.net wrote: 
>
>-- 
>You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

2014-05-09 Thread mwfoscue
If ya'll have not tried White Oak for your outdoor projects, you are missing a great wood for that.  Not only is it very strong and fairly economical, it stands up to the elements very well.  As I mentioned earlier - be sure to read the fine print on whatever spray foam you use.  Some is designed for minimal expansion pressure (For that reason, the proper product to use when installing doors & windows.) while others will exert a fair bit more pressure while expanding more.  If I were going to "foam" a column, I'd call Dow's Technical Support line, tell them what I was planning to do, and ask them what they recommended.  Who knows, you may get them thinking - and next thing we know they develop a product designed SPECIFICALLY for filling the cavity in hollow columns! Mac ___-Original Message-
From: Don Butler 
Sent: May 7, 2014 5:59 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

Lil Twisted,>I fill mine in the shop, too. It doesn't make them that much heavier.If I used a better grade of wood, I might consider leaving them open.I would have to think hard about filling the columns after installation, for fear of making a mess on the entryway.Best regards,Don "Dances With Wood" Butler -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



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Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

2014-05-09 Thread mwfoscue
Ark,I guess you have not seen my input to your earlier question.  In it, I stated that an excellent wood to use for outdoor projects was White Oak.  It is very water resistant, very strong, readily available, and reasonably priced - considering what you are getting. The above is not just my personal opinion (which is based on experience using various types of woods).  Check out this link - to an article from the Kreg Tool Company (They make the famous Kreg Pocket Hole Jig, among many other woodworking tools.).  They list several (4) woods that perform well in outdoor projects - with White Oak being one.  The first two they list (cedar & redwood) are nice looking when new but have a couple "issues".  Some being Do NOT paint cedar or redwood if it will be "out it the rain" - you will hasten its demise (it will rot prematurely).  Another is the need to use stainless fasteners - regular or galvanized fasteners will create ugly black streaking.  Cedar and redwood do not have the structural strength that white oak does.Just my two cents' worth - I hope it helps.MacOriginal Message-
From: Arkady Paka 
Sent: May 8, 2014 3:20 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

Hi Don.Is white oak  better grade of wood, to consider leaving them open?Ark2014-05-08 0:59 GMT+03:00 Don Butler :>>> Lil Twisted,>>> I fill mine in the shop, too. It doesn't make them that much heavier.> If I used a better grade of wood, I might consider leaving them open.> I would have to think hard about filling the columns after installation,> for fear of making a mess on the entryway.>> Best regards,> Don "Dances With Wood" Butler>> --> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.> To post to this group, send email to> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills> .> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.>-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



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Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

2014-05-09 Thread mwfoscue
Ark,Keep in mind that concrete contains LOTS of moisture (even very old concrete has a significant amount).  Because of that, the wood, which will most likely have a lower moisture content, will draw moisture from the concrete and therefore increase the moisture content of the wood.If you want to surround the concrete with wood, you should take steps to keep the moisture from migrating to the wood.  Some possibilities:  "isolate" the concrete - either by painting with a coating designed for that like DryLock or wrap it with a moisture barrier material - like Typar or Tyvek.  Another thing to do is to coat/paint the INSIDE of the wood column wrap - using a high quality coating formulated to be "water proof".Just my two cents' worth - good luck.Mac -Original Message-
From: Arkady Paka 
Sent: May 6, 2014 2:19 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

I'm going to make some hollow columns  for decorative shell around concretepoles.I did not plan to fill the space between the wood and concrete within thecolumn.Hope ventilation openings at the top and bottom of the column will preventproblems.Ark2014-05-06 0:20 GMT+03:00 Don Butler :> I didn't just plug the ends. I filled the cavities completely.> Haven't had any problems at all in quite a number of years.>> Don>>> On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 1:43 PM, Va Oak  wrote:>>> Dow also makes some of their foam adhesive sealants in a larger, "Pro">> size (more economical).  Here is a link to them:>> http://greatstuff.dow.com/products/pro/ Of course, you will need the "gun" to dispense them.  But if you are>> filling large cavities, the Pro size's "economics" may essentially pay for>> the gun - especially when you consider that you can partially use a a>> Pro can and put it  away for later use.  If you try that with the>> "consumer" cans, your days are numbered when it comes to using half a can>> now and the remaining later. I also notice they make a foam for pond and landscaping (P&L) use.  Check>> it out if you are making items for outdoor use.  Since the P&L is>> waterproof, it would most likely serve as a waterproof "plug" at the ends>> of a hollow column. Mac>> On Saturday, May 3, 2014 2:21:13 PM UTC-4, Va Oak wrote:>> One of my "woods of choice" for outdoor projects, where the wood>>> may/will get wet, is white oak - especially where I am needing strength.>> There are six "types" of Great Stuff.  Of them, we most likely will use>>> only 3 or 4 of them - they are:>> 1.  *Window & Door* (foam is the least "expanding" / low pressure>>> exerted by the expanding foam.>> 2.  *Gaps & Cracks*>> 3.  *Big Gap Filler*>> 4. * Pest Blocker* (I had never heard of this one until looking these>>> up today.  Sounds like it ought to be used in the two ends - with one of>>> the above filling the column in between the ends.  Kind of like an Oreo>>> cookie - Pest Block being the two hard "cookies" with the other foam being>>> the "stuffing".  Pun intended.>> It is IMPORTANT to be aware of the expanding factor of the various foams>>> - you don't want it bursting your glued seams.>> Here is a link to the Great Stuff web site:   http://greatstuff.dow.com>> Mac>> >>> >>> -->> -Original Message->>> From: Don Butler>>> Sent: May 3, 2014 11:07 AM>>> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>>> Subject: Re: outdoor hollow columns>> Good morning!>> Attached to this message is a PDF document you can save to your drive or>>> print out (or both) that illustrates a method of making hollow column>>> figures for turning on the Legacy Ornamental Mill.>> I hope you can open it. This is the first time I've tried to attach a>>> .pdf.>> Best regards,>> Don>>  -->> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an>> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.>> To post to this group, send email to>> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.>> Visit this group at>> http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.  --> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.> To post to this group, send email to> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills> .> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.>-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe 

Re: outdoor hollow columns

2014-05-04 Thread mwfoscue
Don,Wow - very informative write-up.  Yes, I am very interested in seeing a SketchUp model.  Can you show where you place the plugs (temporarily I assume - until you move them to the ends to mount the assembly onto mill.  Can you also explain when and how you fill cavity with foam?Thank you for sharing your experience & wisdom.Thanks again.MacOriginal Message-
From: Don Butler 
Sent: May 2, 2014 9:54 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: outdoor hollow columns

In my practice with the LOM I have built a few outdoor columns. The peculiar problems come with the harsher conditions outdoor woodwork has to endure.A solid column may crack due to the outside material shrinking much faster than the core. I see 4x4 posts cracked like that all the time. To head that problem off I make hollow columns. Now getting the workpiece ready for the mill presents considerable difficulty but is well worth the effort. Tight, strong joinery is essential as is using a weatherproof glue. The one I use is Titebond III. There are others, I haven't tried them.The joinery I employ is to cut birdsmouths on the long edges of the boards.To clarify: for a six sided figure the edge cuts are 30º and 60º on one edge and the other edge is 90º.  A good way to achieve the glue up is the make 2 six sided plywood plugs to go inside (They will be needed later anyway to mount the work in the mill) and two stands shaped to hold the pieces from the outside. The first three pieces are glued up and then the other ones are fit after the glue sets.If anybody is interested I'll make up a SketchUp model and post some drawings.Best regards.Don



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Re: outdoor hollow columns & Great Stuff(ing)

2014-05-04 Thread mwfoscue
One of my "woods of choice" for outdoor projects, where the wood may/will get wet, is white oak - especially where I am needing strength.There are six "types" of Great Stuff.  Of them, we most likely will use only 3 or 4 of them - they are:1.  Window & Door (foam is the least "expanding" / low pressure exerted by the expanding foam.2.  Gaps & Cracks3.  Big Gap Filler4.  Pest Blocker (I had never heard of this one until looking these up today.  Sounds like it ought to be used in the two ends - with one of the above filling the column in between the ends.  Kind of like an Oreo cookie - Pest Block being the two hard "cookies" with the other foam being the "stuffing".  Pun intended.It is IMPORTANT to be aware of the expanding factor of the various foams - you don't want it bursting your glued seams.Here is a link to the Great Stuff web site:   http://greatstuff.dow.comMac---Original Message-
From: Don Butler 
Sent: May 3, 2014 11:07 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: outdoor hollow columns

Good morning!Attached to this message is a PDF document you can save to your drive or print out (or both) that illustrates a method of making hollow column figures for turning on the Legacy Ornamental Mill.I hope you can open it. This is the first time I've tried to attach a .pdf.Best regards,Don



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Re: Equipment List

2014-04-20 Thread mwfoscue
For all of us Shopsmith owners in The Group: If we don't have a "stand-alone" drill press, we can configure our SS to the Drill Press mode.  Depending on the drill bit type and diameter and the material being drilled (soft or hard wood, plastic, etc) there are limitations with the Shopsmith drill press.  The minimum rpm with the "original"/Mark 5 headstock is 700 and 250 with the New DVR motor that is made by Teknatool and is the motor on the Mark 7 Shopsmith.  The respective max rpm's are: 5,200 and 10,000.  In any case - no matter what drill press we use, we need to match the drilling rpm to the bit size & type and wood being drilled in order to drill safely and to not damage our equipment.Mac-Original Message-
From: "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
Sent: Apr 20, 2014 8:11 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Equipment List


  

  
  
If some of us don't have it, then I am sure they
  have an uncle-in-law that will.
  

On 4/20/2014 6:29 PM, Tim Krause wrote:


  
  
  
  Is it safe to say we all generally have drill presses in our
shop or access to one?  How about Forstner bit sets that range
up to 2"?  I'm working on developing a project and I want it to
be accessible to most.  If you don't have either, drop me a
personal message.  artmarb...@comcast.net .
  
   
  I hope to hear from no one :-).
   
  -Tim



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Re: Barley twist on pens

2014-04-10 Thread mwfoscue
Barry,Wow!!  That is a very nice looking pen.  Appears to be of a spalted wood - maple?The way you have it "displayed" is terrific.  The two together compliment each other - the "rack" looks great w/the pen and the pen looks great on the rack.  Please share with us the woods you used and how you finished them off (BLO, tung, etc.?)With a holder like that, it doesn't matter if you like the "feel" of the pen - it is a piece of "art" in its own right - does not need to be used as a pen.Thanks for sharing - looking forward to hearing more about your "art piece".Mac -Original Message-
From: Barry Clarke 
Sent: Apr 10, 2014 7:14 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Barley twist on pens

I’ve made a few rope twist pens ,there fun to make and find them very comfortable to use . This pic is one l made for a friend who along with large hands wanted  thicker pen.    On Apr 10, 2014, at 7:05 PM, Tim Krause  wrote:Very inspiring post.  Reminds me of the work Barry Gross was working with (probably still is) that he would place stickers, decals gears etc on the central tube and use a clear two part polymer to clear cast the blocks.   This would be really something different.  Regarding large diameter pens, some day you might appreciate them when you hand grip is no longer what it use to be :-)  Still a great post Curt. Thank You! -Tim - Original Message -From: CURTIS GEORGETo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSent: Thursday, April 10, 2014 3:43 PMSubject: Re: Barley twist on pensHello everyone,On the Beall web site/ fourm. YoYospin (Jarry) comented a while back, the Biggest problem that most owners make, (when using his machine.) is that they cut to deep on there details, which makes the pens uncomfortable  to hold. Perhaps this rope cutting on the pens falls into this category ?Now what I think would be neat, would be to cut the pen blanks (rope or reed...) and then find a way to build up the finish so that the cut doesn't feel funny.I mean (Just an idea.) could you turn a pen and then set that turning back into a clear epoxy? so that the wood would be inside a clear and smooth finish?I know for my self. I like a smooth and thin pen, as well as pencil, I do not like the feel of odd shape or edges, in which hurt my fingers after a long use.  Now Im no expert on this, but even when I see a fine made pen, it will be love at first touch or it just will not happen at all for me. So far Ive not made any pens that feel like what I want. but...? But who know, perhaps some kind of ergo dynamic pen just might be out there for me? but it would be, just my luck that I find one that I like, and it would be one of the ugliest pens ever made. ;-pI wish you guys the best of luck on this topic. Hopefully you all can get some nice pens turned and then Post the pictures, here. I would love to see them.  ;-)C.A.G.Hi Cole and Bill,I don't like the looks of the triple roped pen myself.  I think I like theidea of a double roped so it forms a little bead wrapped around the pen. Iwonder why I don't see more polygon shaped pens with a dash of tear-dropflutes or super tiny reeds.  Jerry Beal came out with the Pen Wizard threeor so years ago and yet I don't see non-round pens anywhere.  One couldargue the tool costs too much but I see it as pennies for what it can do.Isn't that why we bought our machines?  Based on dreams and what we can do,but what we DO in the end is a different story :-)I once read in a pen makers forum that the twisted pens where not thatsuccessful compared to standard pens.  I never got to see any example of thepens and that was just a coupe sellers opinions.  I wondered how they wherepresented. Here's a little story from my life of selling treenware.I made 50 units of a product that generally sells for $25 - $30 all day longusing my legacy and not one of them where round.  I sold them for $35 ormore on ebay and they where selling as I produced them.  Now granted I havea name in the trinket field which helped, but I sold them with the idea thatit's not the shape that you see that any turner makes.  Mine are original,one of a kind, and limited availability.   So I don't know if it was myname, the pitch, or simply the fact they where different, but I do know theyleft my door with a %100 percent guarantee and none ever came back.Moral of the story, if you're in the craft field you do have educate thecustomer and as I call it, "Sell the Story".  It means more cash per unitbut often less sales because the price point is higher.  It beats makingwidgets at a quarter a piece, but I'll admit to making widgets to pay thebills as well.  Those too can be lucrative.I still wonder if a single or double start Barley pen has ever been made andhow it feels.-Tim- Original Message - From: "Cole Andrews" To: "Legacy group" Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2014 12:24 PMSubject: Re: Barley twist on pens> I trie

RE: Wood Chuck as a 3D milling machine

2014-04-06 Thread mwfoscue
Yes Bill,Here in America - baseball is one of the (arguably THE) national sports.  And when "Mommy Bats" have babies, they have to be trained.  This is the device/devise that she uses to train them - to ensure that they grow up to be "good" baseball bats.  Occasionally, this device ends up whacking them pretty hard - to the point that it leaves a "dent".  In that case, the little bat grows up to be a "Ding" bat.  Does that ring a bell?   :-)  I'll bet you, and many more, did not know that.Mac-Original Message-
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Apr 6, 2014 4:03 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Wood Chuck as a 3D milling machine






Ahh a baseball bat training devise so thats what a pax bat is Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Okla Mike (Liltwisted)Sent: Sunday, 6 April 2014 3:47 PMTo: legacy groupSubject: Wood Chuck as a 3D milling machine I don't know if it would be considered 3-D or not but it could do gun stocks and duck decoys.  Have a look at the video and see a baseball bat training devise call a Pax Bat.  I make these for the company who sells them.Carriage is driven by a gear motor and threaded drive shaft, stock WoodCuck stuff.  The main shafts and chains are driven by a separate gear motor with it's own control.  And yes for you noobs, that is a skill saw.http://youtu.be/nzCQkJESZa8Open to comments MikeOK




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RE: New York Show

2014-04-02 Thread mwfoscue
Sorry - meant to say $170 for Totally Turning. I did the math:$180 - entry fee for Showcase and Totally Turning events  $10 - for Showcase only$170 - for Totally TurningBased on what you said below, if I want to enter something to be judged/awarded, I'd have to pay $10 if I were entering it in the Showcase event or $170 if entering in Totally Turning. And if my non-woodworker neighbor want to come along just to see what it was all about, he would not have to pay an admission fee - he'd get in free?Mac-Original Message-
From: Michael Kratky 
Sent: Apr 2, 2014 8:50 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: New York Show






 Don’t know where $170 came from: $180 entry fee for Showcase and Totally Turning events$10 for Showcase onlyNo fee just to visit the gallery or to have pieces in the gallery In a way you could compare it to the Westminster Dog Show there are multiple categories from tables and chairs to marquetry that you can enter for  judging; awards are from Honorable Mention to Best in Show and People’s Choice giving the lucky (well deserved) recipients encouragement and modest boasting rights, there are no cash awards.  We hire the biggest names it he woodworking and woodturning world like David Marks, Richard Raffan, Nick Agar, Mike Mahoney, David Ellsworth, Glenn Lucas, Garrett Hack to mention a few demonstrate and do the judging. Michael P. Kratky From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mwfos...@earthlink.netSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 3:47 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: New York Show Wow!  So if John Q. Public just wanted to go to the NWA Showcase, he'd have to pay $170?!?!Maybe I don't understand what the Showcase is about.  Is it a product & vendor show - like TWS?  Or is it more like the Westminster Dog Show where "artisians" take and display (showcase) their handiwork; and where 1st, 2nd, & 3rd Place awards are given out in a variety of classes?  That would make what we would consider the "admission fee" more like an "entry fee".  Are there provisions for non-competitors to gain entry - for less than $170?Thanks.Mac-Original Message- From: Michael Kratky Sent: Apr 1, 2014 3:33 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: New York Show FYI: NWA (Northeastern Woodworkers Association) Showcase has been running some 23 years Totally Turning (Adirondack Woodturners Association) some 10.  TT used to be held separately in Albany in October but about 4 years ago the parent organization decided to run events concurrent in adjoining facilities as they are chapters or significant interest groups under the same organization as are the carvers, luthiers, boat builders, scroll sawyers, marquetry, intarsia, and pen making groups groups. The problem I have being just as much of a flat boarder as a turner is that Totally Turning commands all my time leaving little time for Showcase.  For $180 paid in advance you can get into Totally Turning and Showcase but $10 only gets you into Showcase. As a club member volunteer you get in free. We start planning for the next year as soon as the current show is pack away, it takes over 200 volunteers. Took 8 years of arm twisting to get Legacy there, hope it worked out well for them, every time I glanced over at their booth they were swamped with on lookers. Michael P. KratkyNortheastern Woodworkers Association (Showcase) www.woodtwokers.orgAdirondack Woodturners Association (Totally Turning) www.adorondackwoodtueners.com From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mwfos...@earthlink.netSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 10:51 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: New York Show Michael,Thank you for the info.  I especially appreciate your "full disclosure" - that you are fully involved in Totally Turning and on the show committee.  Organizations cannot survive and thrive without folks like you.  Please stay involved.Somewhat related comment/question:  I can't help but wonder how The Woodworking Shows fare in comparison.  You mention there were 6.000 (paying?) attendees.  How much admission was charged?  Were there One-day and Entire Show ticket options?Were there "member" rates and non-member rates?I feel The Woodworking Shows' (TWS) admission ticket pricing is very good - given that it covers the entire weekend.The second "comparison" that interests me is what the attendance numbers run at TWS conducted in your area.  Does anyone have any idea of how many attend TWS that are held in your area?Shows like Michael's and TWS are key parts of the "survivability" of woodworking as a hobby.  Folks attend these events, watch some demos, think "I can probably do that" (or I'll give that a try), buy the demo'd item and hopefully get "hooked" on the hobby.  Meanwhile, the device inventors and venders are able to make some money doing what the

Re: Are our mills already "extinct"?

2014-04-01 Thread mwfoscue
Curtis,When you get that info, and the shipping costs, we'll get a taste of what Bill Bulkeley experiences anytime he wants to order something from outside of his "Island Down Under".  That being, the S&H can end up costing more than the item ordered.  That occasionally happens to me when ordering a small repair part from Delta, DeWalt/Stanley, Jet, etc.- the part costs $3.00 and the S&H is $8 to $12.Such is life.Mac -Original Message-
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Apr 1, 2014 9:01 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: are our mills already "extinct"?

Mac I sent the company a E-mail asking if they had any Vendors in the US.   I will let you know what they tell me.Ive been looking at there equipment for a long time. Nice Stuff. I have a feeling that the shipping prices ALONE will make these lathes , out-side many of the woodworkers price ranges. But you never know? The company is out of Sweden  they have web links to England, Germany as well. ( but I dont know if the web link,means that they have vendors in those countries or not?)I will let you know more, when it happens. ;-)Have a good night.C.A.G.I did a quick check of internet - to see if there is/are LignoTec sales places/distributors.  The only hits I got were a couple folks commenting about a Ligno lathe on Router forum and the likes.  Is there any place in the US that has sells them and has showroom?MacSubject: Fw: are our mills already "extinct"?









Hi Tim
I know that number is low, add quite a few more.
RegardsEuro Roger


 

From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Tuesday, April 1, 2014 1:31 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: are our mills already "extinct"?
 

Then you also have the shipping.  When I contacted them many years ago 
he sent me a price list of everything and offered a huge discount and even went 
so far as asking if I wanted to be a USA dealer.  I was just looking for 
the slide portion the Eli Aveseri (sp) helped design.  I think it was 
around $900-1200 by the time it arrived.  I really can't remember.  

 
I've heard a rumor that a little over 10,000 red manual machines where sold 
but I think it's only a rumor. 
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  joe biunno 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 11:51 
  AM
  Subject: Re: are our mills already 
  "extinct"?
   
  i have only recently been introduced to this lathe and its 
  accessories...it is very impressive...but what is missing is the ever 
  important, "how much?"...and should anyone buy a set up, they should also buy 
  ALL the accessories, as we have all seen what happens when anyone did not buy 
  all the legacy accessories available at the time they bought their 
  machine...LOL...and is there a risk of not getting any parts for future 
  repairs, should the company not last?...one thing you have to say about 
  legacy, they are still here...perhaps not servicing their older machines as 
  well as we would like, but just surviving this long is an accomplishment in 
  itself...but this equipment and the things that harvey does are for the 
  hobbyist and/or artist to do single pieces...certainly has its place in the 
  ornamental world...just not in production, i feel...but the legacy can make 
  that crossover into doing multiple, decorative pieces for furniture 
  parts(legs, finials, bed posts,etc.) in a custom furniture shop...it would be 
  interesting to know what this companies sales numbers are in regards to the 
  accessories it offers...anyone have any clues as to how many machines legacy 
  has sold from years ago?...just some fun facts on a fun 
  monday!...joeOn Monday, March 31, 2014 2:32:01 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: 
   


http://lignolathe.com/en/technical_description/index.htm  
- One of my favorite gadget lathe and accessories that have been thought 
out. 
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: joe biunno 
  To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
  
  Cc: joe 
  biunno 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 10:20 
  AM
  Subject: Re: are our mills already 
  "extinct"?
   
  harvey's work is exceptional...that is an accepted fact...but 
  what i find interesting, is all the gizmos and gadgets he made( and there 
  are a lot!) to do all the intricate cuts...i have seen them and seen how 
  they work on a lathe and it is some great stuff...and i could see a 
  challenge being made if any current cnc could do the kind of things that 
  he is capable of doing now...but how long is it before a robotic arm type 
  of cnc is to be used to do decorative work on a spindle or bowl?...too far 
  off into the future you say?...might be here sooner than we might 
  imagine...older, out of date robotics might become available for 
  re-purposing in the woodworking industry(if they are not here 
  already)...then all linear x,y, z, z1,z2,etc axi

Re: Fw: are our mills already "extinct"?

2014-04-01 Thread mwfoscue
I did a quick check of internet - to see if there is/are LignoTec sales places/distributors.  The only hits I got were a couple folks commenting about a Ligno lathe on Router forum and the likes.  Is there any place in the US that has sells them and has showroom?MacSubject: Fw: are our mills already "extinct"?









Hi Tim
I know that number is low, add quite a few more.
RegardsEuro Roger


 

From: Tim Krause 
Sent: Tuesday, April 1, 2014 1:31 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: are our mills already "extinct"?
 

Then you also have the shipping.  When I contacted them many years ago 
he sent me a price list of everything and offered a huge discount and even went 
so far as asking if I wanted to be a USA dealer.  I was just looking for 
the slide portion the Eli Aveseri (sp) helped design.  I think it was 
around $900-1200 by the time it arrived.  I really can't remember.  

 
I've heard a rumor that a little over 10,000 red manual machines where sold 
but I think it's only a rumor. 
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  joe biunno 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 11:51 
  AM
  Subject: Re: are our mills already 
  "extinct"?
   
  i have only recently been introduced to this lathe and its 
  accessories...it is very impressive...but what is missing is the ever 
  important, "how much?"...and should anyone buy a set up, they should also buy 
  ALL the accessories, as we have all seen what happens when anyone did not buy 
  all the legacy accessories available at the time they bought their 
  machine...LOL...and is there a risk of not getting any parts for future 
  repairs, should the company not last?...one thing you have to say about 
  legacy, they are still here...perhaps not servicing their older machines as 
  well as we would like, but just surviving this long is an accomplishment in 
  itself...but this equipment and the things that harvey does are for the 
  hobbyist and/or artist to do single pieces...certainly has its place in the 
  ornamental world...just not in production, i feel...but the legacy can make 
  that crossover into doing multiple, decorative pieces for furniture 
  parts(legs, finials, bed posts,etc.) in a custom furniture shop...it would be 
  interesting to know what this companies sales numbers are in regards to the 
  accessories it offers...anyone have any clues as to how many machines legacy 
  has sold from years ago?...just some fun facts on a fun 
  monday!...joeOn Monday, March 31, 2014 2:32:01 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: 
   


http://lignolathe.com/en/technical_description/index.htm  
- One of my favorite gadget lathe and accessories that have been thought 
out. 
 
-Tim
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: joe biunno 
  To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
  
  Cc: joe 
  biunno 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 10:20 
  AM
  Subject: Re: are our mills already 
  "extinct"?
   
  harvey's work is exceptional...that is an accepted fact...but 
  what i find interesting, is all the gizmos and gadgets he made( and there 
  are a lot!) to do all the intricate cuts...i have seen them and seen how 
  they work on a lathe and it is some great stuff...and i could see a 
  challenge being made if any current cnc could do the kind of things that 
  he is capable of doing now...but how long is it before a robotic arm type 
  of cnc is to be used to do decorative work on a spindle or bowl?...too far 
  off into the future you say?...might be here sooner than we might 
  imagine...older, out of date robotics might become available for 
  re-purposing in the woodworking industry(if they are not here 
  already)...then all linear x,y, z, z1,z2,etc axis' become obsolete(except 
  in computer programming language)...the key being a simple, yet complete, 
  computer program designed specifically for the woodworking industry...if 
  it ever happens, hope i live long enough to see it!...just some random 
  rumblings on a boring 
  monday...joe






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RE: New York Show

2014-04-01 Thread mwfoscue
Wow!  So if John Q. Public just wanted to go to the NWA Showcase, he'd have to pay $170?!?!Maybe I don't understand what the Showcase is about.  Is it a product & vendor show - like TWS?  Or is it more like the Westminster Dog Show where "artisians" take and display (showcase) their handiwork; and where 1st, 2nd, & 3rd Place awards are given out in a variety of classes?  That would make what we would consider the "admission fee" more like an "entry fee".  Are there provisions for non-competitors to gain entry - for less than $170?Thanks.Mac-Original Message-
From: Michael Kratky 
Sent: Apr 1, 2014 3:33 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: New York Show






FYI: NWA (Northeastern Woodworkers Association) Showcase has been running some 23 years Totally Turning (Adirondack Woodturners Association) some 10.  TT used to be held separately in Albany in October but about 4 years ago the parent organization decided to run events concurrent in adjoining facilities as they are chapters or significant interest groups under the same organization as are the carvers, luthiers, boat builders, scroll sawyers, marquetry, intarsia, and pen making groups groups. The problem I have being just as much of a flat boarder as a turner is that Totally Turning commands all my time leaving little time for Showcase.  For $180 paid in advance you can get into Totally Turning and Showcase but $10 only gets you into Showcase. As a club member volunteer you get in free. We start planning for the next year as soon as the current show is pack away, it takes over 200 volunteers. Took 8 years of arm twisting to get Legacy there, hope it worked out well for them, every time I glanced over at their booth they were swamped with on lookers. Michael P. KratkyNortheastern Woodworkers Association (Showcase) www.woodtwokers.orgAdirondack Woodturners Association (Totally Turning) www.adorondackwoodtueners.com From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mwfos...@earthlink.netSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 10:51 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: New York Show Michael,Thank you for the info.  I especially appreciate your "full disclosure" - that you are fully involved in Totally Turning and on the show committee.  Organizations cannot survive and thrive without folks like you.  Please stay involved.Somewhat related comment/question:  I can't help but wonder how The Woodworking Shows fare in comparison.  You mention there were 6.000 (paying?) attendees.  How much admission was charged?  Were there One-day and Entire Show ticket options?Were there "member" rates and non-member rates?I feel The Woodworking Shows' (TWS) admission ticket pricing is very good - given that it covers the entire weekend.The second "comparison" that interests me is what the attendance numbers run at TWS conducted in your area.  Does anyone have any idea of how many attend TWS that are held in your area?Shows like Michael's and TWS are key parts of the "survivability" of woodworking as a hobby.  Folks attend these events, watch some demos, think "I can probably do that" (or I'll give that a try), buy the demo'd item and hopefully get "hooked" on the hobby.  Meanwhile, the device inventors and venders are able to make some money doing what they are doing.  Hence we continue to see neat products brought to market.  Just my thoughts - I can't wait to read other members' feedback ragarding woodworking-related events held in their areas.Have a Great week.Mac-Original Message- From: Michael Kratky Sent: Apr 1, 2014 8:37 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: New York Show Fabulous Show: The 23rd annual Northeastern Woodworkers Association’s Fine Woodworking Show was held March 29-30 at the City Center in Saratoga Springs, NY simultaneously with Totally Turning 2014. The oldest and most prestigious continuously running show with hundreds of exhibitors, vendors, and a special display on string instruments; attendance was over 6,000. Legacy was there for the 1st time, only talked with Andy briefly when they were setting up Friday evening, never got a chance after that as I’m on the show committee and fully involved in Totally Turning. David Marks was held over and did a very special 10 hour day long demo yesterday for the sponsoring club the Northeastern Woodworkers Association. (www.woodworker.org) www.nwawoodworkingshow.orgwww.totallyturning.com Michael P. Kratky From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim KrauseSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 12:26 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: New York Show Anything!- Original Message - From: Michael Kratky To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 5:11 PMSubject: RE: New York Show Thought or impressions of the Show or about Legacy being there for the 1st time? Mi

RE: New York Show

2014-04-01 Thread mwfoscue
Michael,Thank you for the info.  I especially appreciate your "full disclosure" - that you are fully involved in Totally Turning and on the show committee.  Organizations cannot survive and thrive without folks like you.  Please stay involved.Somewhat related comment/question:  I can't help but wonder how The Woodworking Shows fare in comparison.  You mention there were 6.000 (paying?) attendees.  How much admission was charged?  Were there One-day and Entire Show ticket options?Were there "member" rates and non-member rates?I feel The Woodworking Shows' (TWS) admission ticket pricing is very good - given that it covers the entire weekend.The second "comparison" that interests me is what the attendance numbers run at TWS conducted in your area.  Does anyone have any idea of how many attend TWS that are held in your area?Shows like Michael's and TWS are key parts of the "survivability" of woodworking as a hobby.  Folks attend these events, watch some demos, think "I can probably do that" (or I'll give that a try), buy the demo'd item and hopefully get "hooked" on the hobby.  Meanwhile, the device inventors and venders are able to make some money doing what they are doing.  Hence we continue to see neat products brought to market.  Just my thoughts - I can't wait to read other members' feedback ragarding woodworking-related events held in their areas.Have a Great week.Mac -Original Message-
From: Michael Kratky 
Sent: Apr 1, 2014 8:37 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: New York Show






Fabulous Show: The 23rd annual Northeastern Woodworkers Association’s Fine Woodworking Show was held March 29-30 at the City Center in Saratoga Springs, NY simultaneously with Totally Turning 2014. The oldest and most prestigious continuously running show with hundreds of exhibitors, vendors, and a special display on string instruments; attendance was over 6,000. Legacy was there for the 1st time, only talked with Andy briefly when they were setting up Friday evening, never got a chance after that as I’m on the show committee and fully involved in Totally Turning. David Marks was held over and did a very special 10 hour day long demo yesterday for the sponsoring club the Northeastern Woodworkers Association. (www.woodworker.org) www.nwawoodworkingshow.orgwww.totallyturning.com Michael P. Kratky  From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim KrauseSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 12:26 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: New York Show Anything!- Original Message - From: Michael Kratky To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 5:11 PMSubject: RE: New York Show Thought or impressions of the Show or about Legacy being there for the 1st time? Michael P. Kratky   From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim KrauseSent: Monday, March 31, 2014 8:32 PMTo: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.comSubject: New York Show Did anyone make it to the show?  What where your thoughts and impressions? -Tim








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