Re: [MBZ] preferred $5000 car? (kinda OT)

[LT Don]

What was that figure on the Federal tax credit? 

On 8/9/05, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> LT Don wrote:
> >
> > I tried to talk him into the hybraid, but engineer that he is he
> > pulled out his slide rule, bounced cost against fuel prices (then),
> > and said that it was almost a wash.
> 
> It's only a wash if you get your batteries for free. $4k for a battery
> pack in 5 years or so really skews the calculation. Make mine a CRX HF
> please, 65mpg and only one $30 battery.
> 
> I saw a 2000 Insight advertised nearby for $6k last week. "high miles",
> the ad said. How much you wanna bet the owner noticed that the battery
> charge falls off much faster than it used to, checked with the dealer
> on replacement, and then decided to sell?
> 
> Remember the GM electric, I believe it was called Impact? If you went
> to that extreme to optimize a gas engined car of equal performance and
> range, your fuel economy would be triple digit, maybe even 200mpg, and
> the cost of the tiny gas engine would be a fraction of the electric stuff.
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.

Re: [MBZ] preferred $5000 car? (kinda OT)

[Mitch Haley]

LT Don wrote:
> 
> I tried to talk him into the hybraid, but engineer that he is he
> pulled out his slide rule, bounced cost against fuel prices (then),
> and said that it was almost a wash.

It's only a wash if you get your batteries for free. $4k for a battery
pack in 5 years or so really skews the calculation. Make mine a CRX HF
please, 65mpg and only one $30 battery. 

I saw a 2000 Insight advertised nearby for $6k last week. "high miles",
the ad said. How much you wanna bet the owner noticed that the battery
charge falls off much faster than it used to, checked with the dealer
on replacement, and then decided to sell?

Remember the GM electric, I believe it was called Impact? If you went
to that extreme to optimize a gas engined car of equal performance and
range, your fuel economy would be triple digit, maybe even 200mpg, and
the cost of the tiny gas engine would be a fraction of the electric stuff.

[MBZ] More bloody hitch

[Joe Knight]

This is maybe a bit premature, but I think I've just acquired a new
Oris hitch that should be way better suited to installation on my
wagon than the one I've already got.  It'll probably be a couple of
months before I actually have the thing in hand and am able to confirm
this, but I'd like to anticipate the possibility that I'll be wanting
to sell the one I've got.  Problem is that I don't know what model
it's supposed to fit.  The crossmember to which the ball arm attaches
is too long to be a boltup fit for my 124TD.  The two bolt holes near
either end thru which the crossmember attaches to the vehicle are
almost exactly 2" apart and the distance between these two pairs is
~41 5/16".  Additionally, there's a projection in the middle, where
the ball arm attaches, of ~1 3/16" above a straight line between the
top of the bolt holes for which my TD makes no provision.  I've got a
small pdf diagram from the epc for the 210 wagon which most closely
resembles what I've got among those for which I've been able to find
diagrams; anyone interested enough to want to take a peek under his
vehicle let me know & I'll send it along.

joe

Re: [MBZ] preferred $5000 car? (kinda OT)

[LT Don]

Two words -- Honda Civic. 

My son, a year ago, freshly married and starting a job paying a salary
that is more than I EVER earned per year (and I was mid-level military
officer) chose a Honda Civic. Previous vehicle was an Acura Integra.

He has NO regrets. Fun, amazingly roomy, economical, and reliable. And
very slow depreciation.

I tried to talk him into the hybraid, but engineer that he is he
pulled out his slide rule, bounced cost against fuel prices (then),
and said that it was almost a wash.

Re: [MBZ] W124 A/C question - compressor cuts off too soon?

[Marshall Booth]

Dave M. wrote:

Hi all,

I thought the AC was a little weak in my 300E yesterday, although it
was 102°F outside. Today I drove it with a digital thermometer in the
duct. The temps fluctuate between 49°F and 54°F, with fan speed on
high OR low. Seems the system is cutting the compressor off way before
it should, at least that's my guess.

Question: What controls this? Is it *only* the evaporator sensor in
the side of the heater/evaporator box, sending a signal to the
pushbutton unit? Or could there be something else acting up? I found
the FSM section on testing the evap sensor, I'll see if that's within
spec, but if it is then I'm out of ideas. My other 124 will fluctuate
about 10° cooler (say, between 40-45°F), which is what I expected.

If it were low on charge (which I'm fairly certain it is not), the
compressor would run all the time, trying to cool down to the sensor
limit, correct? The system seems to be sort of working as intended,
just at a higher temperature than it should. (???)


Best regards,

The evaporator sensor circuit starts off with a cutoff point of about 5 
deg C (that's ~41 F when the sensor is about 25k ohms) and the sensor 
USUALLY slowly edges upwards in resistance as it ages. On 124s 
manufactured after 9/87 also shut off the compressor if the sensor 
shorts - resistance drops below 2.5k ohm. Richard Easley calculated a 
modification to drop the the effective cutoff to about 36-38 F (with a 
new sensor).


I'll see if I can find Richard's modification, but it was on his Baylor 
pages and I'm not sure they still exist in their former form since he 
left the RE list..


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] W124 A/C question - compressor cuts off too soon?

[Peter Frederick]

Does your monovalve leak?  Are the pressures correct (i.e. does the 
expansion valve work properly)?  The actual evaporator temp is 
controlled by the expansion valve, so if it runs a bit warm, so will 
the evaporator (or if it has some crud in it).  They are fairly easy to 
replace.


If the monovalve leaks, you have reheat when you don't want it.

My TE is quite cold, AC works a charm.  On the 300D, it's only cool at 
idle, cold above 1000 rpm.


Unless you have a bigger condenser, R134a will run a bit warm above 
100F outside temp, worse with high humidity like we have here.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] W124 A/C question - compressor cuts off too soon?

[72benz250]

Hey Dave,

A compressor cycling too often is usualy due to a low charge. Can't confirm 
without low & high pressures.

Basicaly when there is not enough refrigirant, the low side pressure drops too 
low and the low pressure cut off switch turns off the compressor.

Depending on when your system was made there could also be a high pressure cut 
off switch as well.

Good luck 

George

-- Original message -- 

> Hi all, 
> 
> I thought the AC was a little weak in my 300E yesterday, although it 
> was 102°F outside. Today I drove it with a digital thermometer in the 
> duct. The temps fluctuate between 49°F and 54°F, with fan speed on 
> high OR low. Seems the system is cutting the compressor off way before 
> it should, at least that's my guess. 
> 
> Question: What controls this? Is it *only* the evaporator sensor in 
> the side of the heater/evaporator box, sending a signal to the 
> pushbutton unit? Or could there be something else acting up? I found 
> the FSM section on testing the evap sensor, I'll see if that's within 
> spec, but if it is then I'm out of ideas. My other 124 will fluctuate 
> about 10° cooler (say, between 40-45°F), which is what I expected. 
> 
> If it were low on charge (which I'm fairly certain it is not), the 
> compressor would run all the time, trying to cool down to the sensor 
> limit, correct? The system seems to be sort of working as intended, 
> just at a higher temperature than it should. (???) 
> 
> 
> Best regards, 
> 
> -- 
> Dave M. 
> Boise, ID 
> 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 
> 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline) 
> 1986 300E - 206kmi 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

[MBZ] W124 A/C question - compressor cuts off too soon?

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

I thought the AC was a little weak in my 300E yesterday, although it
was 102°F outside. Today I drove it with a digital thermometer in the
duct. The temps fluctuate between 49°F and 54°F, with fan speed on
high OR low. Seems the system is cutting the compressor off way before
it should, at least that's my guess.

Question: What controls this? Is it *only* the evaporator sensor in
the side of the heater/evaporator box, sending a signal to the
pushbutton unit? Or could there be something else acting up? I found
the FSM section on testing the evap sensor, I'll see if that's within
spec, but if it is then I'm out of ideas. My other 124 will fluctuate
about 10° cooler (say, between 40-45°F), which is what I expected.

If it were low on charge (which I'm fairly certain it is not), the
compressor would run all the time, trying to cool down to the sensor
limit, correct? The system seems to be sort of working as intended,
just at a higher temperature than it should. (???)


Best regards,

-- 
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
1986 300E - 206kmi

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[John Robbins]

On Tue, 9 Aug 2005, Kevin wrote:


FWIW, my youngest brother's first car is a 78 300D. He hasn't had it a year
yet, but seems to really like it. It was an easy sell to his mother, since
it was (a) cheap, (b) not something with a high center of gravity, and (c)
something that he'd walk away from if he made a mistake, hit a deer, or
got wrapped up in his idiot classmates having more testosterone than brains.

He started off thinking the car was completely gutless (he previously drove
a 24v taurus, and had driven my 85 190D 5spd and 87 300D), but it has really
grown on him. Go figure?


My little brother was the same way.  He is "borrowing" my other SD, which 
he didn't really care for and was just going to use it till he could get a 
Toyota pickup.  Funny thing happened though... everyone at school saw that 
nice MB star on the front and dubbed the car "cool".  Now he really likes 
the car! :)


John

Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

[Marshall Booth]

jgiels wrote:
you can go to a health food store and buy any quanity you want, I think I 
bought enough for $6 or $8.


douglas.. 300D

- Original Message - 
From: "John Robbins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 7:39 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush




How much citric acid do I need to flush the cooling system?

Local MB dealer has 1 lb in stock for ~$19.  Can get it online for $2-3 a
lb, but have to order 5+ pounds...

Also, I've heard mention of a drain plug on the engine block.  Is this
basically the block heater or have I missed something?

Thanks!!
John
'79 300SD


About a kg (2.2 lb) is correct, but the precise concentration is not 
vital. Any amount between say a pound and 4-5 lbs (0.5 to 2 kg) will 
clean out the most any Mercedes cooling system. Be sure you flush the 
system well several times to insure that all the acid is GONE. The drain 
plug is on the passenger's side of the engine just in front of the 
starter motor.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[jgiels]

Diesel has gone over the $3 mark here in northern CA.

douglas.. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: OK Don 
  To: Mercedes mailing list 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 5:36 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel prices


  Diesel and unleaded are the same price here now - $2.21/gal. First time I've 
seen that in a long time.


  On 8/9/05, Rick Hawkins < [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Folkes,

I noticed something interesting here in North Georgia. A couple of 
weeks ago, gas was costing about  $2.21 and diesel $2.29. Sunday, the
positions were reversed with gas at $2.29 and diesel $2.21.

Has this happened generally or just here? This is the first time in
about a year and a half that I've seen diesel for LESS than gas. 



thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com

payment by all major credit cards or by paypal 

Java Photo
Java Bajaj Cycles
107 Paradise Boulevard
Athens, Georgia 30607




  -- 
  OK Don, KD5NRO
  Norman, OK 
  '87 300SDL
  '81 240D
  '78 450SLC 


--


  ___
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
  For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Back on the 'net

[Zeitgeist]

What our delusional friend meant to say is that I happen to reside in the 
western world's kultural mecca. Auburn unfortunately is not a high-brow 
mecca, but it does share a geographical proximity to Kent, which comes in a 
close second.

Oh, and I do like the leetle froggy wagons, but I prefer to describe them as 
my l'il smokey Freedom Cars.

On 8/9/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Please forgive Casey, as he is living in the liberal black hole
> surrounding the state capitol. Not only is he an avid Biodiesel user,
> but French cars appeal to him. As you will learn, there are no french
> cars allowed in Auburn, even if they are diesel powered. If it is a
> truck by the big three, then it can be diesel.
> 
> Should you need some heavy Benz lust, hit the regional show and shine
> up I-5 in Mountlake Terrace this weekend. 10 am at the Nile Country
> club.
> 

Casey
Biodiesel:
'87 300TD intercooler (206k) 
'84 300D (202k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k)
Olympia, WA

Re: [MBZ] preferred $5000 car? (kinda OT)

[Mitch Haley]

Curt Raymond wrote:
> AWD is just something else to break and from all accounts is a serious PITA 
> to fix.

What's the modern Subaru system like?

My old 1977 wagon differed from the 2WD in: 
1. not having fifth gear, the fifth gear shift fork was hooked up to
a separate gearshift lever and engaged a driveshaft for the rear wheels.
2. Datsun (Nissan now) 280Z diff in the back, with an extra set of
halfshafts. 

So, the added complexity in that case was three driveshafts and one diff,
all rated for far more power than my 1.6L boxermotor ever dreamed of producing,
and one extra shift lever. That car was much abused before I got suckered into
buying it, and suffered many failures in the three months I drove it, but none
involving the drivetrain, and no evidence that it had ever been touched.

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[Kevin]

On Tue, Aug 09, 2005 at 03:29:16PM -0500, LT Don wrote:
> I am just trying to convince myself that I don't miss not having power
> windows, intermittent wipers (relay defective), sunroof, cruise
> control, a working central locking system, and a shutdown box that
> doesn't have a Swiss cheese diaphragm.

Heh. Well, my brother's 300D is a sunroof delete car, and his central locks
don't work either...

K

Re: [MBZ] Removal of center vent servo in 1983 300TD w/o taking apart the dash

[Marshall Booth]

andrew strasfogel wrote:

I can't seem to find the article on the procedure describing how
small-handed individuals could R/R a broken center dash vent servo in
a 123 300D, CD or TD without needing to completely take apart the
entire dash.  IIRC, this involves removing the glove box and being
prepared to have one or both hands scraped raw.



Just found this on the MBCA forum today (but dated 7/30/05) from Paul 
Persico:


>> vacuum actuators can be removed without removing the dash. <<

The center nozzle actuator can be accessed by removing the glove box, 
the right center nozzle and the rubber hood that supplies the center 
nozzles.


The defroster nozzle flap actuator is somewhat more difficult(and is 
most likely the problem). To do this the instrument panel and both the 
panels in the driver's side knee well must be removed. The blanket below 
the instrument panel needs to be moved aside.


The reason I say that the defroster nozzle flap actuator is most likely 
the problem is that that's where the cleaner used to clean the temp 
sensor seems to accumulate. It doesn't make any sense to me but that's 
what I was told AND what I've experienced first hand. It pools in there 
and the rubber deteriorates. This actuator has two positions. One 
section is provided with vacuum T'd off of the center nozzle flap 
actuator. You can check for leaks by MightyVacing the at the vacuum 
solenoids in the center console.:


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[redghost]

the less stuff sucking hp the faster I go

On Tuesday, August 9, 2005, at 07:01 AM, LT Don wrote:


The sort of personality that likes the 240D (such as mine) prefers to
have as little power equipment as possible, since that is only one
more item to break and need replacement. Or at least that is how I
feel.

On 8/9/05, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Good luck, though it seems a little pricey since it has neither PW nor
a sunroof.


--
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[John Robbins]

On Tue, 9 Aug 2005, redghost wrote:


I have three years to go, and Gump will gladly give her life, no matter
how much I may wish the kid harm that day.


So whats going to replace Gump?  Somehow I don't see it being an SDL...

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[LT Don]

I am just trying to convince myself that I don't miss not having power
windows, intermittent wipers (relay defective), sunroof, cruise
control, a working central locking system, and a shutdown box that
doesn't have a Swiss cheese diaphragm.

On 8/9/05, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Don,
> 
> Even manual windows have cranks and regualtors that may break.  So there!
> 
> I have had very little problem with the PW systems on any of the cars
> that had them.  Mercedes electrical stuff is very rugged and
> dependable.
>

-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[Kevin]

FWIW, my youngest brother's first car is a 78 300D. He hasn't had it a year
yet, but seems to really like it. It was an easy sell to his mother, since
it was (a) cheap, (b) not something with a high center of gravity, and (c)
something that he'd walk away from if he made a mistake, hit a deer, or
got wrapped up in his idiot classmates having more testosterone than brains.

He started off thinking the car was completely gutless (he previously drove
a 24v taurus, and had driven my 85 190D 5spd and 87 300D), but it has really
grown on him. Go figure?

K

On Tue, Aug 09, 2005 at 01:22:16PM -0700, redghost wrote:
> I have three years to go, and Gump will gladly give her life, no matter  
> how much I may wish the kid harm that day.
> 
> On Tuesday, August 9, 2005, at 05:43 AM, OK Don wrote:
> 
> > Is your son's life worth the political capitol? I can't think of a  
> > safer car to start him in. Mine started in an '81 240D.
> >
> > On 8/9/05, Kevin J. Slater < [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> > good luck on the auction. I hope it goes well for you. Looks like the  
> > car
> > I should be buying for my 15 3/4 y/o son, but the wife wouldn't see
> > eye-to-eye with me on it and I don't want to use the political capital
> > required to win the decision. IYKWIM. ;-)

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[redghost]

I have three years to go, and Gump will gladly give her life, no matter  
how much I may wish the kid harm that day.


On Tuesday, August 9, 2005, at 05:43 AM, OK Don wrote:

Is your son's life worth the political capitol? I can't think of a  
safer car to start him in. Mine started in an '81 240D.


On 8/9/05, Kevin J. Slater < [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Gary,

good luck on the auction. I hope it goes well for you. Looks like the  
car

I should be buying for my 15 3/4 y/o son, but the wife wouldn't see
eye-to-eye with me on it and I don't want to use the political capital
required to win the decision. IYKWIM. ;-)

...Kevin
87 300TD 275.8k mi

Schisler, Gary said:
>  
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1979-Mercedes- 
24

> 0D-diesel_W0QQitemZ4567424013QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
>
>
> Listing my 79 240D on eBay.  Come one, come all.  Bid high!  ;>)
>
>






--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC ___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[andrew strasfogel]

Don,

Even manual windows have cranks and regualtors that may break.  So there!

I have had very little problem with the PW systems on any of the cars
that had them.  Mercedes electrical stuff is very rugged and
dependable.


On 8/9/05, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The sort of personality that likes the 240D (such as mine) prefers to
> have as little power equipment as possible, since that is only one
> more item to break and need replacement. Or at least that is how I
> feel.
> 
> On 8/9/05, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Good luck, though it seems a little pricey since it has neither PW nor
> > a sunroof.
> >
> --
> If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[LT Don]

There goes YOUR security clearance!  Even as you read this another
page has already been added to your Permanent Record.

On 8/9/05, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  And the other shoe will drop when they open up ANWR to 
>  exploitation, er, exploration.

-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[redghost]

We are headed to $3/gal here.

Went from 2.39 a month ago to 2.59 (last fill), and I am seeing the 
price around 2.79 most places this week.


On Tuesday, August 9, 2005, at 05:36 AM, OK Don wrote:

Diesel and unleaded are the same price here now - $2.21/gal. First 
time I've seen that in a long time.


On 8/9/05, Rick Hawkins < [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Folkes,

I noticed something interesting here in North Georgia. A couple of
weeks ago, gas was costing about  $2.21 and diesel $2.29. Sunday, the
positions were reversed with gas at $2.29 and diesel $2.21.

Has this happened generally or just here? This is the first time in
about a year and a half that I've seen diesel for LESS than gas.



thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com

payment by all major credit cards or by paypal

Java Photo
Java Bajaj Cycles
107 Paradise Boulevard
Athens, Georgia 30607






--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC ___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush

[jgiels]

you can go to a health food store and buy any quanity you want, I think I 
bought enough for $6 or $8.


douglas.. 300D

- Original Message - 
From: "John Robbins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 7:39 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush



How much citric acid do I need to flush the cooling system?

Local MB dealer has 1 lb in stock for ~$19.  Can get it online for $2-3 a
lb, but have to order 5+ pounds...

Also, I've heard mention of a drain plug on the engine block.  Is this
basically the block heater or have I missed something?

Thanks!!
John
'79 300SD

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[andrew strasfogel]

Hey guys - don't worry - be happy!  Bush just signed the Energy Bill!!
 And the other shoe will drop when they open up ANWR to exploitation,
er, exploration.



On 8/9/05, Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Tue, Aug 09, 2005 at 03:12:29AM -0400, Rick Hawkins wrote:
> > I noticed something interesting here in North Georgia. A couple of
> > weeks ago, gas was costing about  $2.21 and diesel $2.29. Sunday, the
> > positions were reversed with gas at $2.29 and diesel $2.21.
> >
> > Has this happened generally or just here? This is the first time in
> > about a year and a half that I've seen diesel for LESS than gas.
> 
> In the past two weeks, diesel has shot up about thirty cents per gallon, with
> gasoline climbing but not nearly at that rate.
> 
> The Valero in Redwood City now wants $3.13 per gallon for diesel, and wants
> $2.89 a gallon for 91 octane. Everywhere I've been in the bay area has AT
> LEAST a fifteen to twenty cent difference in diesel over premium.
> 
> Personally, I'm licking my chops. If this continues, there's going to be
> some CHEAP diesel duallies to be had, as the triton v10 doesn't do a bunch
> worse than the powerchokes on an empty truck (and face it, most toys around
> here run empty).
> 
> K
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL/ bordeaux red and camel

[andrew strasfogel]

Imagine - a classy bordeaux-sipping camel sitting in the back seat of
a Mercedes.  Quite a look.

On 8/9/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 8/9/2005 6:02:56 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> it bordeaux red with camel
> Man, these are my favorite colors!!  Pretty rare combo.  Buy it!  Run it
> 'till it dies and then make a road side sculpture out of it.  Gas costs will
> be the least of your expenses.
>  
> Regards, 
>  
> Jim Friesen
> Phoenix AZ
> 79 300SD, 261 K miles 
> 98 ML 320, 137 K miles
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
>

Re: [MBZ] New Mexico 300SEL - CL

[andrew strasfogel]

Sounds interesting.  Too bad the photos are so tiny I can't tell the
color of the interior or whether it even has a s/r..


On 8/9/05, Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> To all
> 
> Craigslist Phoenix for 8/9/05
> 
> http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/89894895.html
> 
>  Classic  Mercedes 1971, 300 SEL, Daily Driver, Always Garaged, 3.5L  -
> $4000
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
>

Re: [MBZ] Back on the 'net

[redghost]

Please forgive Casey, as he is living in the liberal black hole 
surrounding the state capitol.  Not only is he an avid Biodiesel user, 
but French cars appeal to him.  As you will learn, there are no french 
cars allowed in Auburn, even if they are diesel powered.  If it is a 
truck by the big three, then it can be diesel.


Should you need some heavy Benz lust, hit the regional show and shine 
up I-5 in Mountlake Terrace this weekend.  10 am at the Nile Country 
club.



On Monday, August 8, 2005, at 10:19 PM, Zeitgeist wrote:

David, please disregard what my good friend Clay wrote (he's not 
feeling well) and welcome to the People's Republic of Cascadia.  We 
aren't very friendly, but we do tolerate a fair number of fine 
European machinery out here--enjoy!


On 8/8/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

David,

Welcome to the soviet socialist republic of washington.  The Governor
is a whore, the county executive is a great example of why affirmative
action is a failure, and the diesel benz are plenty and cheap


Casey
Biodiesel:


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

Re: [MBZ] R-12

[72benz250]

Hey Mitch,

Care to share where you got your information from? Not trying to start a flame 
war or anything, but ...

If R-12 was flammable, then you you need a 20$ hazmat charge to ship any of it. 
The bottles would be labled with the 4 squares as flammable. The DOT/IMO label 
for R-12 is NONFLAMMABLE GAS

Here is the MSDS sheet for Freon R-12 from Dupont.
http://msds.dupont.com/msds/pdfs/EN/PEN_09004a2f800069d3.pdf

Here is the fire fighting information from the document above:
--
FIRE FIGHTING MEASURES
--
Flammable Properties
Flash Point : Will not burn
Flammable limits in Air, % by Volume
LEL : Not applicable
UEL : Not applicable
Autoignition : >750 C (>1382 F)
Fire and Explosion Hazards:
Cylinders may rupture under fire conditions. Decomposition
may occur.
Extinguishing Media
As appropriate for combustibles in area.
Fire Fighting Instructions
Use water spray or fog to cool containers. Self-contained
breathing apparatus (SCBA) is required if cylinders rupture
and contents are released under fire conditions. Water
runoff should be contained and neutralized prior to release.

Here is the shipping information from the document above
--
TRANSPORTATION INFORMATION
--
Shipping Information
DOT/IMO
Proper Shipping Name : DICHLORODIFLUOROMETHANE
Hazard Class : 2.2
UN No. : 1028
DOT/IMO Label : NONFLAMMABLE GAS
Shipping Containers
Tank Cars.
Cylinders
Ton Tanks
Reportable Quantity : 5,000 lbs./2,270 kg.

-- Original message -- 

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> > 
> > Hey Mitch, 
> > 
> > Where would that be? 
> 
> Wherever it is that you said flammable refrigerants are illegal. 
> R12 and R134a are flammable, and the combustion byproducts are 
> a lot less innocent than those from hydrocarbons. 
> 
> 
> 
> > 
> > -- Original message -- 
> > 
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> > > > 
> > > > BTW some states have laws against putting flamables in your AC 
> system. 
> > > 
> > > So what do you do where the law doesn't allow R12 or R134a? 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[jjayj]

i have a new and improved attitude (i've been air conditioned at work for three 
hours) that has me looking foreward to these repairs with gusto!  with that '75 
450sl on the way, there will be lots of things to tinker with


> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

--- Begin Message ---
ever wish you had the 82 back? and I had your oil burner?

On 8/9/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> 
> thanx,...where is the seat back motor?
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 


-- 
Don & Teresa Merriman
Market Place Mexico
Vacation Rentals
Property Administration
www.marketplacemexico.com 
--- End Message ---

Re: [MBZ] R-12

[Mitch Haley]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Hey Mitch,
> 
> Where would that be? 

Wherever it is that you said flammable refrigerants are illegal. 
R12 and R134a are flammable, and the combustion byproducts are
a lot less innocent than those from hydrocarbons. 



> 
>  -- Original message --
> 
>  > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>  > >
>  > > BTW some states have laws against putting flamables in your AC 
> system.
>  >
>  > So what do you do where the law doesn't allow R12 or R134a?

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Joe Knight]

Might be prudent to check the etm to see if the seat memory module
might complicate the reliability of any results you'd get from the
wiring at the switch, Jay, if the 126 has seat memory.  The motor' may
well be accessible thru the seat back; the memory module and motor
connectors are buried a bit deeper in all likelihood.  ETM also might
help with deciphering the color coding if there's any confusion as to
which wires feed the recliner motor.  OTOH, it might be pretty obvious
at the switch; I just don't remember.  Other than that, I think you're
on the right track.  I disassembled the switches for a more thorough
cleaning, but that's probably not necessary.  If you go that route,
you might want to open the thing up inside a plastic bag to avoid
losing errant small parts.

joe

On 8/9/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> thanks bob...did that yesterday...switch will move motor one way, blows fuse 
> the other...the switch is a replacement from the boneyard...i was just told 
> that the controls can be found behind the seat back...if i can energize the 
> motor, i'll get it into position and take the fuse out untill i find the bad 
> wire...
> 
> on the other hand, if the switch is bad, how can i operate the seat from the 
> two wires that plug into the seat? give one 12v and the other a ground? then 
> reverse?
> 
> 
> > JJJ,
> > I could be wrong , but I don't think so. It is a DC motor so if it
> > worked to recline the seat the switch simply reverses polarity to make
> > it go forward. This is almost certainly related to the switch. Hose
> > out the switch contacts with some contact cleaner or brake clean
> > while you opperate the switch. have a couple rags handy to dab up the
> > run off.
> >
> > Bob DuPuy
> >
> > ___
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Marshall Booth]

Joe Knight wrote:

If the motor's working you should be able to use jumpers direct to run
it, hot to one, ground to the other, reversing the connections to run
the other way.  I did this a lot while rebuilding the driver's seat in
my wagon.  There's a good chance it's a wiring problem resulting from
all the flexing as the seat is moved.  If you're real lucky the
problem will just be bad contacts in the switch.  If you do wind up
fooling with the wiring to the motors pay very close attention to the
routing; it can be a pain to get this right so the seat can move
throughout its range w/o binding on something.


To move the seat in one direction one wire to the motor is grounded and 
the other is hot (12V). If the wire that is grounded in this direction 
is shorted to ground the motor will still work just fine. If the 
connections are reversed to move the seat in the other direction 
however, the fuse WILL blow as soon as the it's engaged. That describes 
the situation you seem to be reporting - not likely the motor or the 
switch but most likely the wiring.


Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[Schisler, Gary]

Yeah, it looks like a leak but I washed the car.  You can see the water
under the front and the back as well as on top of the air cleaner.  

 



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hendrik Riessen
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 9:45 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

 

Hi Gary,

 

No I won't be bidding but I thought I asked anyway, is that some sort of
leak in the first picture or the remains of a car washing job?

 

Hendrik

- Original Message - 

From: Schisler, Gary   

To: Mercedes mailing list   

Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 8:10 PM

Subject: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

 


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1979-Mercedes-24
0D-diesel_W0QQitemZ4567424013QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Listing my 79 240D on eBay.  Come one, come all.  Bid high!  ;>)

 

Gary





___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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4/08/2005

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Don & Teresa Merriman]

ever wish you had the 82 back? and I had your oil burner?

On 8/9/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> 
> thanx,...where is the seat back motor?
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 


-- 
Don & Teresa Merriman
Market Place Mexico
Vacation Rentals
Property Administration
www.marketplacemexico.com 

Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL

[Dave M.]

Yeah, I was quoting prices based on dealer wholesale (Rusty) or
used... my numbers are probably optimistic. I didn't want to totally
scare poor Kleb like you probably just did, lol...

BTW, my BIL is seriously shopping for a 1992-95 S350 diesel (yes, the
rodbender). If anyone has a line on a cream puff, let me know. Strong
preference given to examples with a documented replacement engine,
although if it's original and uses zero oil and the price was right, I
think that would be OK too (then I'd make him proactively replace the
rods!)

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 13:37:30 -0400
> From: "James Zavesky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL
> 
> Sorry Dave your not even close
> 
> These are wholesale prices:
> 
> ETA rebuilt - left $1300/right $1600. New the pair are 5k from the dealer.
> ignition control modules new are $3800 each (L&R) $7600 for the pair from
> the dealer
> EA module is $2500
> 92 engine harness is $2300
> 93 harness is $1750 (thank you jesus my car used the 93 harness)
> 
> M119 motor is different that the M120 in it's configuration. We have a M119
> in the 1991 500SL
> 
> remove timing chain cover to get to front rails. LOTS of stuff needs to come
> off. Huge PITA. when I get the diesel done that's next on the list when the
> ozone levels drop to something more normal.
> 
> bent rods in a 350 are a cake walk.
> 
> Jim

Re: [MBZ] trans rebuild video

[Marshall Booth]

Luther Gulseth wrote:

Does anybody still have the person's email who was selling the DVD on 
rebuilding 722.2/3/4 trans?  I'm curious about the proceedure and would like 
the video.  TIA all,
Luther


This should do it!

See all the parts inside and how a Mercedes 300D/SD 4 speed automatic 
transmission works A complete tear-down and rebuild/assembly filmed on an actual 
Mercedes 722.315 4 speed auto transmission plus extras... This video covers 
troubleshooting and repairing hard to fix problems on these transmissions.  It 
also covers the torque convertor and special assembly procedures.  It will save 
you a lot of money if you drive any Mercedes automatic.  It contains high 
quality digital camera footage, on screen notes and step by step details.  



As I mentioned before on the lists, I have been editing hours of video.  Well 
I am now making it available on 2 DVD's or VHS for $35 and that includes free 
shipping to make things simple.  I will accept checks or money orders only 
made out to & sent to:


Dan Charnews
PO Box 243
Greenlawn, New York 11740

email-  danterr9 at aol attn: video  after you mail your check so I have a 
quick count for producation.  Thanks -Dan 


Marshall


--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals

[Kevin]

On Tue, Aug 09, 2005 at 10:09:44AM -0700, Joe Knight wrote:
> With a fairly short torque wrench and by removing the windshield
> washer reservoir it is quite possible to do this procedure w/o
> removing the intake.  btdt.

It's even easier when you have the head and intake manifold off :)

K

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[Kevin]

On Tue, Aug 09, 2005 at 03:12:29AM -0400, Rick Hawkins wrote:
> I noticed something interesting here in North Georgia. A couple of 
> weeks ago, gas was costing about  $2.21 and diesel $2.29. Sunday, the 
> positions were reversed with gas at $2.29 and diesel $2.21. 
> 
> Has this happened generally or just here? This is the first time in 
> about a year and a half that I've seen diesel for LESS than gas. 

In the past two weeks, diesel has shot up about thirty cents per gallon, with
gasoline climbing but not nearly at that rate.

The Valero in Redwood City now wants $3.13 per gallon for diesel, and wants
$2.89 a gallon for 91 octane. Everywhere I've been in the bay area has AT 
LEAST a fifteen to twenty cent difference in diesel over premium.

Personally, I'm licking my chops. If this continues, there's going to be
some CHEAP diesel duallies to be had, as the triton v10 doesn't do a bunch
worse than the powerchokes on an empty truck (and face it, most toys around
here run empty).

K

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[Marshall Booth]

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

Marshall,

Any thoughts about this one? TIA.

http://makeashorterlink.com/?A1702159B

Mathieu


Matt, I'd even consider THAT car for ME (it's in Export, PA about 25 
miles East of me).


Could be a very good value if the price remains below $8-9k and it's in 
the condition it SEEMS to be in. 15 year old cars in the Pittsburgh area 
USUALLY have rust issues (don't ask how I know that)! Rust is harder to 
spot with the plastic lower covers on the doors and rocker panels.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

[MBZ] trans rebuild video

[Luther Gulseth]

Does anybody still have the person's email who was selling the DVD on 
rebuilding 722.2/3/4 trans?  I'm curious about the proceedure and would like 
the video.  TIA all,
Luther

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals

[Marshall Booth]

Dave M. wrote:

One tiny adjustment... the torque range neeed is, I believe, 30-40Nm,
not lb-ft... make sure you use the proper setting on your wrench.
Over-torquing can damage the pump. The torque procedure is listed in
the TDM (Tech Data Manual), not the normal service manual (don't ask
me why).


SORRY - final torque IS 35 Nm NOT 35 ft-lb. Proper sequence is: torque 
to 30 Nm and release, torque to 30 Nm and release, torque to 30 Nm and 
then an additional 5 Nm for the final step. Then, IF the pump makes a 
racket determine which cylinder is noisy and redo the torque sequence on 
that one! Needs to repaired promptly as it can damage or destroy the IP.


I'm told that even experienced techs will produce a noisy condition 
maybe one out of ten times. Happens a little more often for a novice.


Thanks for catching that Dave!! Very careless of me.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

[MBZ] Stolen radio & broken glove box

[72benz250]

Hi all,

Some SOB broke into my vehicle and stole the radio and broke the glove box. I 
got a replacement glove box via UPS yesterday but the new color of the dash it 
too dark. What can I do to match it with the old dash color? Attached is a 
picture of the glove box. You can't tell from the picture but the varnish has a 
"cracked" look to it. don't know if that's from the factory or age.

They also stole the old cassette (broken) radio. Can anybody recommend a nice 
radio that's inexpensive? I would hate for this to happen to a high dollar 
radio. I remember seening some blaupunks for under 50$ 6-8 years. 

Thanks

George--- Begin Message ---
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
--- End Message ---
<>

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[jjayj]

thanks bob...did that yesterday...switch will move motor one way, blows fuse 
the other...the switch is a replacement from the boneyard...i was just told 
that the controls can be found behind the seat back...if i can energize the 
motor, i'll get it into position and take the fuse out untill i find the bad 
wire...

on the other hand, if the switch is bad, how can i operate the seat from the 
two wires that plug into the seat? give one 12v and the other a ground? then 
reverse?


> JJJ,
> I could be wrong , but I don't think so. It is a DC motor so if it
> worked to recline the seat the switch simply reverses polarity to make
> it go forward. This is almost certainly related to the switch. Hose
> out the switch contacts with some contact cleaner or brake clean 
> while you opperate the switch. have a couple rags handy to dab up the
> run off.
> 
> Bob DuPuy
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL

[James Zavesky]

Sorry Dave your not even close

These are wholesale prices:

ETA rebuilt - left $1300/right $1600. New the pair are 5k from the dealer.
ignition control modules new are $3800 each (L&R) $7600 for the pair from
the dealer
EA module is $2500
92 engine harness is $2300
93 harness is $1750 (thank you jesus my car used the 93 harness)

M119 motor is different that the M120 in it's configuration. We have a M119
in the 1991 500SL

remove timing chain cover to get to front rails. LOTS of stuff needs to come
off. Huge PITA. when I get the diesel done that's next on the list when the
ozone levels drop to something more normal.

bent rods in a 350 are a cake walk.

Jim





- Original Message - 
From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL


> Kaleb,
>
> EZL is the electronic ignition module/brain. On the M119 cars, they're
> about $3k new, very hard to find used, and $750-$1000 used. Not a
> common failure but I heard of several in the V8 community in the past
> year or two. It's the kind of thing you keep your eyes out for and
> grab a spare if you spot one on eBay for a few hundred bucks. One
> lucky guy scored a spare for $300, I would have been all OVER that if
> I had seen it.
>
> The TBA is Throttle Body Actuator, the electronic throttle body widget
> that has a motor that opens & closes the throttle butterflies (it's
> all electronic on this engine, remember). That's not as bad, maybe $1k
> each, but they're also known to have a limited life span. The previous
> owner of my E500 replaced this before I bought it, and mine was a 94
> with only 90kmi. I think it's a wiring failure, so a car from a hot
> area (Phoenix, Sacramento, etc) may have more issues like this but I'm
> not sure about that.
>
> Don't forget the timing chain & rails, if the rails start to come
> apart, the cost to replace is ginormous, as the whole front of the
> motor has to come off  (and maybe the heads or lower oil pan too). The
> chains usually last 150kmi or so before they stretch enough to change,
> and that's more complex than a diesel chain replacement, but it's the
> rails that you don't want to mess with. VERY hard to tell if the rails
> are OK other than pulling the lower pan and inspecting for big chunks
> of debris (AFAIK).
>
> :-)
>
> -dm
>
> > --
> > Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 07:49:27 -0500
> > From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL
> >
> >
> > what is ezl and tba?
>
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] R-12

[72benz250]

Hey Mitch,

Where would that be? In the US the current defacto standard is r-134. If you 
have a 1993 or older system then you have r-12 and can fill it with r-12 until 
supplies are exhausted.

EPA states you can retrofit a r-12 to r-134. Once it's a r-134 system then 
there are no EPA laws about converting r-134 to anything else like Duracool, 
ef-12 ... but there are some state laws that limit what you can put into your 
AC such as flamables.

Makes sense?

George
-- Original message -- 

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> > 
> > BTW some states have laws against putting flamables in your AC system. 
> 
> So what do you do where the law doesn't allow R12 or R134a? 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] R-12

[72benz250]

Hey Joe,

I'm sure they can have the dryer tested for any reminantes for POE or R-134 in 
the discicant if they really wanted to.

-- Original message -- 

> But who's gonna know if you only give the 'appearance' of having 
> converted to 134a by just and only adding the required fittings. Not 
> that I would advocate this of course, or ever even consider doing it 
> myself. :) 
> 
> j 
> 
> On 8/8/05, Dave M. wrote: 
> > Joe, 
> > 
> > That's a good question - might be a loophole, if one actually wanted 
> > to do this. However to me it would be highly undesireable because you 
> > would need to contaminate a virgin mineral oil system with POE in 
> > order to do the 134a conversion. 
> ... 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Bob DuPuy]

JJJ,
I could be wrong , but I don't think so. It is a DC motor so if it
worked to recline the seat the switch simply reverses polarity to make
it go forward. This is almost certainly related to the switch. Hose
out the switch contacts with some contact cleaner or brake clean 
while you opperate the switch. have a couple rags handy to dab up the
run off.

Bob DuPuy

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[Joe Knight]

For the kind of use that's being contemplated I wouldn't touch this
one w/o a very thorough PPI, looking very carefully for any signs of
corrosion or any electrical gremlins.  It does look very nice, but the
engine compartment pics do evidence some sign of what I take to be
road salt related pitting; if you can see it there I'd think it likely
that there's more & worse in less obvious places.  If it's not
altogether impractical you'd do well to expand your search to well
beyond the perimeter of the salt belt.

joe

On 8/9/05, Mathieu J. Cama <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Marshall,
> 
> Any thoughts about this one? TIA.
> 
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?A1702159B

Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals

[Joe Knight]

With a fairly short torque wrench and by removing the windshield
washer reservoir it is quite possible to do this procedure w/o
removing the intake.  btdt.

joe

On 8/9/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> One tiny adjustment... the torque range neeed is, I believe, 30-40Nm,
> not lb-ft... make sure you use the proper setting on your wrench.
> Over-torquing can damage the pump. The torque procedure is listed in
> the TDM (Tech Data Manual), not the normal service manual (don't ask
> me why).

Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals

[Dave M.]

Peter,

Could you remind us again what the exact symptoms are, and if it
started suddenly or gradually?

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 05:57:31 -0400
> From: Peter Arnold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals
> 
> Dave mentioned that changing the "Delivery Seals" may repair my pump.
> Is that in the POS manual?  Parts & Tool from my usual Source {Rusty
> or Salvation Army Thrift Shop}
> I will be trying to advance the idle screw clockwise tonight per
> Marshal's suggestion.
> 
> --
> 
> Peter T. Arnold

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[Dave M.]

Hi Mathieu,

For driving 60kmi per year, I would want something with good MPG,
unless the company is paying for it. I would strongly lean torwards a
1990-93 300D 2.5T in excellent condition and fairly low miles (low
100's). They should be plentiful in that price range.

If he needs the extra room of an S-class, I'd go with the 300SDL. I
would not want an OM617, he'd be doing valve adjustments every few
months...

;-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 11:54:06 -0400
> From: "Mathieu J. Cama" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Car advice
> 
> Fellow Listers,
> 
> A customer of mine is seeking a car to use for his traveling sales job. He
> averages 60,000 miles/year. He was thinking of rebuilding a 300sd w126 for
> this, but the cost of doing so has him thinking of moving into something
> else or at least a far nicer example. Does anyone have any recommendations
> of what would be an ideal car for him to use? A later w126 perchance? Also,
> does anyone have a car for sale that would be up to this sort of use? He
> would like to find a car that would last him for 3-4 years (200k miles
> plus) at a minimum without having to perform major repairs. His budget
> limits him to under $10k. Ideally he will stay with a diesel due to fuel
> costs. TIA.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Mathieu

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[Mathieu J. Cama]

Marshall,

Any thoughts about this one? TIA.

http://makeashorterlink.com/?A1702159B

Mathieu


A 124 300D 2.5 or E300D (90 thru '95) in good shape could be ideal. The

124 is a LOVELY car to drive on the highway and 30+ mpg of the 602.96 or
606.91 engines are easily attainable (36 mpg is possible under good
conditions). In high mileage situations and highway driving 350-500kmi
lifespans with FEW problems are very common. These cars are usually
quite affordable.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
   Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
 http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals

[Dave M.]

One tiny adjustment... the torque range neeed is, I believe, 30-40Nm,
not lb-ft... make sure you use the proper setting on your wrench.
Over-torquing can damage the pump. The torque procedure is listed in
the TDM (Tech Data Manual), not the normal service manual (don't ask
me why).

:-)

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 09:58:49 -0400
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals
> 
> Peter Arnold wrote:
> > Dave mentioned that changing the "Delivery Seals" may repair my pump.
> > Is that in the POS manual?  Parts & Tool from my usual Source {Rusty
> > or Salvation Army Thrift Shop}
> > I will be trying to advance the idle screw clockwise tonight per
> > Marshal's suggestion.
> >
> > --
> 
> Delivery valve seals will NOT fix a problem with idle speed adjustment
> 
> Replacing delivery valve seals is RARELY needed, but IF required,
> nothing else will solve the problem. Maybe 1-2% of Mercedes injection
> pumps require them during their lifetime. There is really NO reliable
> test of delivery valve seals except with the pump on a test stand. It is
> probably wise to replace the pump seals IF you're going to replace the
> "O" rings on the delivery valve pipe fittings as the seals are
> inexpensive, but it's rarely actually necessary. The only reason to
> replace the seals is if there is uneven delivery from the IP to the
> injectors. My very crude test of delivery seals is to remove all the
> injection lines and crank the engine while watching what comes out of
> the pipe fittings - each should deliver about the same amount of fuel. A
> really proper test (the way it would be done on a test stand) would
> measure the output and pressure of each port during some number of
> revolutions of the pump - each should deliver about the same amount of fuel.
> 
> When playing with the injection pump a little finesse and care is
> required. The pump body is quite easy to distort if anything is
> overtightened (usually "repaired" by loosening and retightening using
> the proper torque/release technique as outlined in the Tech Data
> Manual), or a little too much force on a wrench CAN crack the housing
> and if that happens a new pump is the only solution.
> 
> I do NOT recommend people trying to "tune up" their injection pump as
> injection pumps rarely fail, do NOT routinely drift out of adjustment
> and about 90-95% of all injection pump problems occur right AFTER the
> pump has been "adjusted." Only if all of the injectors have been TESTED
> and shown to be working PERFECTLY but fuel delivery still seems uneven
> is there sufficient justification to even consider playing with the
> delivery valve seals (in MY opinion). Get half a dozen new seals AND "O"
> rings (and several spare "O" rings as it's easy to damage one or more
> when installing the delivery valve fittings). Oil the "O" ring when
> installing it. You'll need the splined socket and a torque wrench
> accurate in the 30-40 lb-ft range. The fittings CAN be removed with the
> intake manifold in place (but it's a little tight).
> 
> Worth checking the engine manual.
> 
> http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-8627.pdf
> 
> Marshall

Re: [MBZ] W123 center vent actuator R&R instructions

[Dave M.]

If you mean the note at the end of the instructions, that was me, and
they were sold back when I sent the message to the old diesel list -
sorry. If you only need to replace the center vent pod, you can get
George Murphy's diaphragm kit for $5 (I think) plus S&H. Note that his
kits ONLY repair the center vent pod, or the 'small lift' portion of
dual-chamber pods. His kits that claim to repair the dual-chamber pods
DO NOT work as advertised (long story). But they work great for the
center vents, provided you do not break the plastic pod while taking
it apart!

:-)

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 09:48:16 -0400
> From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: [DIESEL] W123 center vent actuator R&R
> instructions
> 
> Thanks!!-
> 
> Will whoever has the spare parts please email me privately?
> 
> Andrew

Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL

[Dave M.]

Kaleb,

EZL is the electronic ignition module/brain. On the M119 cars, they're
about $3k new, very hard to find used, and $750-$1000 used. Not a
common failure but I heard of several in the V8 community in the past
year or two. It's the kind of thing you keep your eyes out for and
grab a spare if you spot one on eBay for a few hundred bucks. One
lucky guy scored a spare for $300, I would have been all OVER that if
I had seen it.

The TBA is Throttle Body Actuator, the electronic throttle body widget
that has a motor that opens & closes the throttle butterflies (it's
all electronic on this engine, remember). That's not as bad, maybe $1k
each, but they're also known to have a limited life span. The previous
owner of my E500 replaced this before I bought it, and mine was a 94
with only 90kmi. I think it's a wiring failure, so a car from a hot
area (Phoenix, Sacramento, etc) may have more issues like this but I'm
not sure about that.

Don't forget the timing chain & rails, if the rails start to come
apart, the cost to replace is ginormous, as the whole front of the
motor has to come off  (and maybe the heads or lower oil pan too). The
chains usually last 150kmi or so before they stretch enough to change,
and that's more complex than a diesel chain replacement, but it's the
rails that you don't want to mess with. VERY hard to tell if the rails
are OK other than pulling the lower pan and inspecting for big chunks
of debris (AFAIK).

:-)

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 07:49:27 -0500
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL
>
> 
> what is ezl and tba?

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[Marshall Booth]

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

Fellow Listers,

A customer of mine is seeking a car to use for his traveling sales job. He 
averages 60,000 miles/year. He was thinking of rebuilding a 300sd w126 for 
this, but the cost of doing so has him thinking of moving into something 
else or at least a far nicer example. Does anyone have any recommendations 
of what would be an ideal car for him to use? A later w126 perchance? Also, 
does anyone have a car for sale that would be up to this sort of use? He 
would like to find a car that would last him for 3-4 years (200k miles 
plus) at a minimum without having to perform major repairs. His budget 
limits him to under $10k. Ideally he will stay with a diesel due to fuel 
costs. TIA.


A 124 300D 2.5 or E300D (90 thru '95) in good shape could be ideal. The 
124 is a LOVELY car to drive on the highway and 30+ mpg of the 602.96 or 
606.91 engines are easily attainable (36 mpg is possible under good 
conditions). In high mileage situations and highway driving 350-500kmi 
lifespans with FEW problems are very common. These cars are usually 
quite affordable.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[Mathieu J. Cama]

Let me clarify, the fellow is looking at w126 and w124 cars. He does not 
want a w123 or anything earlier. Anything newer would likely be out of his 
price range. Personally, I think a 300D 2.5 would be the ideal car. Now, to 
only find a nice, low mile example.


Mathieu

At 12:21 PM 8/9/2005, you wrote:

No.

At 12:15 PM 8/9/2005, you wrote:
>Wouldn't Gary's 240D do the job and be fairly economical?


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[Mathieu J. Cama]

No.

At 12:15 PM 8/9/2005, you wrote:

Wouldn't Gary's 240D do the job and be fairly economical?

Re: [MBZ] Car advice

[LT Don]

Wouldn't Gary's 240D do the job and be fairly economical? 

On 8/9/05, Mathieu J. Cama <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Fellow Listers,
> 
> A customer of mine is seeking a car to use for his traveling sales job. He 
> averages 60,000 miles/year. He was thinking of rebuilding a 300sd w126 for 
> this, but the cost of doing so has him thinking of moving into something 
> else or at least a far nicer example. Does anyone have any recommendations 
> of what would be an ideal car for him to use? A later w126 perchance? Also,
> 
> does anyone have a car for sale that would be up to this sort of use? He 
> would like to find a car that would last him for 3-4 years (200k miles 
> plus) at a minimum without having to perform major repairs. His budget 
> limits him to under $10k. Ideally he will stay with a diesel due to fuel 
> costs. TIA.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Mathieu 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[JJJ]

gotta go to work...i'll look for that motor...the headrest goes up and down 
and the seat goes foreward and back...it's just the pesky angle of the seat 
right now... 

Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL

[Marshall Booth]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
who on here has one of these beasts?  EPA says mileage is 11 city 15 
highway.  Thats only 2mpg less than the 4.2 v-8. Hmm.  A dude I know is 
selling his for 12.5k, only has 67k miles, VERY nice car.  Was looking 
at it a while back(before he was selling it) and he says you have to 
remove the air box etc and a bunch of crap on the drivers side of the 
engine compartment to get to the oil filter.  Anyways, whats the deal 
with this V-12 motor?  Any trouble with them?  Seems I have heard of 
trouble but cant think of anything specific.  I would REALLY love to buy 
this thing if I can come up with some cash.


I know of an estimate to replace the wiring harness in either an SL600 
or SEL -damaged by installation of an aftermarket alarm system. The 
dealer wanted $17,000 for the job and said it COULD be more! My mechanic 
did a preliminary estimate and said it could be a LOT more!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Joe Knight]

You might be in luck, sort of.  Looks like the seat back motor & the
headrest motor might be accessible by removing the panelling on the
back of the seat which you should be able to do in situ.  Don't know
how similar the 126 seat is to my 124, but mine looked like somebody
had kludzed in a replacement motor with the seat still installed. 
There was some very sloppy uninsulated soldering done to the wiring
right near that motor.  With the seat out it would've been about as
easy to replace the motor with its harness.

joe

On 8/9/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> argggh! '86 300sdl
> 
> so far, the switch seems good
> 
> i've removed the frame bolts in order to remove the seat...it's too heavy
> and so i took the bolts out of the rails, except one...there are 4 corner
> bolts on top, then there is a sneaker underneath in the middle of the
> rail-you take it out from below...that rail's loose,but...how to get to the
> one that must be on the other side??

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[Gerald R. Flintrop]

Today, both gas and diesel are about $3.00/gal., here in San Diego's North
County.

Jerry   Ö¿Ö
    ~


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 6:03 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

I have noticed for short periods diesel has been less than gas, it only 
lasts a day or 2 though.

Rick Hawkins wrote:

> Folkes,
> 
> I noticed something interesting here in North Georgia. A couple of weeks 
> ago, gas was costing about $2.21 and diesel $2.29. Sunday, the positions 
> were reversed with gas at $2.29 and diesel $2.21.
> 
> Has this happened generally or just here? This is the first time in 
> about a year and a half that I've seen diesel for LESS than gas.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> xx rick
> Rick Hawkins
> 
> www.javaphoto.com
> www.javacycles.com
> 
> payment by all major credit cards or by paypal
> 
> Java Photo
> Java Bajaj Cycles
> 107 Paradise Boulevard
> Athens, Georgia 30607
> 
> 

[MBZ] Car advice

[Mathieu J. Cama]

Fellow Listers,

A customer of mine is seeking a car to use for his traveling sales job. He 
averages 60,000 miles/year. He was thinking of rebuilding a 300sd w126 for 
this, but the cost of doing so has him thinking of moving into something 
else or at least a far nicer example. Does anyone have any recommendations 
of what would be an ideal car for him to use? A later w126 perchance? Also, 
does anyone have a car for sale that would be up to this sort of use? He 
would like to find a car that would last him for 3-4 years (200k miles 
plus) at a minimum without having to perform major repairs. His budget 
limits him to under $10k. Ideally he will stay with a diesel due to fuel 
costs. TIA.


Regards,

Mathieu 

Re: [MBZ] Odometer Question

[Marshall Booth]

Joe Knight wrote:

The odometer is purely mechanical in your car, Dan.  No electrics
involved, except for lighting.  That's not to say it mightn't have
malfunctioned at some point.  Without very complete service records
and a pretty good knowledge of the vehicle's history I don't know how
you'd go about ascertaining that.

joe


What Joe said AND: The odometer can be fail so it doesn't register - 
perhaps for years and then be repaired (often a simple repair) and pick 
up right where it stopped (years or days or weeks ago). That's why a 
CarFax check CAN provide a clue as to use - that should match the 
pattern of use the seller describes. Of course the previous owner might 
well have slipped in a replacement speedometer. I've done that on 
several cars - not to distort mileage but because it was less expensive 
then repairing the original speedometer.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] 140 600SEL/ bordeaux red and camel

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 8/9/2005 6:02:56 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

it  bordeaux red with camel


Man, these are my favorite colors!!  Pretty rare combo.  Buy  it!  Run it 
'till it dies and then make a road side sculpture out of  it.  Gas costs will 
be 
the least of your expenses.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 137 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] euro question

[Marshall Booth]

Rich Thomas wrote:
What are the differences among the various .n versions?  Are they 
generally interchangeable?


NO. Not without a LOT of work in most cases.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] One last question on blue smoke before I commit to the valve seals..

[Marshall Booth]

Kevin J. Slater wrote:

Folks,

I figured I'd ask one last time before I commit to replacing the valve
stem seals on my 300TD's OM603. To recap, the symptoms are:

- Blue smoke when pulling away from a stop after the engine warms up.
- Amount of smoke seems to grow with length of time spent idling.
- Very little or no blue smoke during starting after sitting overnight. (I
don't notice it when backing out of the garage/driveway.)
- Off odor burning smell in the exhaust. (Keeps people off the bumper
though!)

Marshall and Dave M have both given invaluable input into the situation.
What I'm wondering is, could this be something else? Some folks seem to
mention the turbo; which may be easier to service than the replacing the
stem seals with the head on the motor? Any input welcome and appreciated.

...Kevin
87 300TD 275.8k mi (and pissing off 'environmentalists' everywhere it goes..)


The blue smoke could be from the valve stems/seals or any other point of 
access to the air ingested. This is a RARE symptom. I would disconnect 
the breather line from the valve cover to the air intake, do a few hard 
acceleration runs to clear out any possible oil accumulation in the air 
intake path and then see if the blue smoke is diminished.


If there is NO change you can certainly try new seals as that seems to 
be the next logical step, but except for Dave's case (where the seal - 
perhaps an incorrect one - was improperly installed) new seals seldom 
corrects oil consumption problems on diesels.


Still, the replacement of the seals DID cure Dave's problem.

The VERY early stages of a blown head gasket (between the #1 cylinder 
and the oil passage next to the chain vault) can produce symptoms not 
unlike what you describe (the phrase, "(o)ff odor burning smell in the 
exhaust" describes the smell from the exhaust from my 601 engine with 
the blown head gasket). As it gets worse the smoke gets worse and whiter 
and oil consumption increases - mine reached a qt/200 miles before I 
finally replaced the head gasket!


Are you SURE that the air filter and air intake is unrestricted?? When 
was the air cleaner changed?


Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[JJJ]

argggh! '86 300sdl

so far, the switch seems good

i've removed the frame bolts in order to remove the seat...it's too heavy 
and so i took the bolts out of the rails, except one...there are 4 corner 
bolts on top, then there is a sneaker underneath in the middle of the 
rail-you take it out from below...that rail's loose,but...how to get to the 
one that must be on the other side?? 

Re: [MBZ] euro question

[Rich Thomas]

What are the differences among the various .n versions?  Are they 
generally interchangeable?


--R

Marshall Booth wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 

Got a 84 300D euro.  It appears to have the same tranny setup as the 
turbos do, is this correct?
   

123 Euro 300Ds used 722.1 (early) or 722.4 (late) series transmissions, 
300D turbos used 722.3 series transmissions (except the '85 California 
certified 300D turbos that used a 722.4 tranny).


Marshall
 

[MBZ] Odometer Problems

[Bill Aston]

Dan,   I've been into the inner workings of a few  123 instrument panels 
circa 1980 and have never seen anything except rudimentary electrics for 
lighting and mechanical gear stuff for the odometer.

Cheers
Bill 




--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.10.4/66 - Release Date: 8/9/2005

Re: [MBZ] euro question

[Marshall Booth]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Got a 84 300D euro.  It appears to have the same tranny setup as the 
turbos do, is this correct?
123 Euro 300Ds used 722.1 (early) or 722.4 (late) series transmissions, 
300D turbos used 722.3 series transmissions (except the '85 California 
certified 300D turbos that used a 722.4 tranny).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

[MBZ] Baptism !!

[Darrell W. Sigmon]

Are You Kathlick?

Three little boys were concerned because they  couldn't get anyone to play
with them. They decided it was because they had not  been baptized and 
didn't go

to Sunday School. So they went to the nearest  church. Only the janitor was
there. One little boy said, "We need to be baptized  because no one will 
come

out and play with us. Will you baptize  us?"

Sure," said the janitor. He took them into the bathroom and dunked  their
heads in the toilet bowl, one at a time. Then he said "Now go out and 
play. When

they got outside, dripping wet, one of them asked, "What religion do  you
think we are?"

The oldest one said, "We're not Kathlick, because they  pour the water on
you." "We're not Babtis, because they dunk all of you in the  water." 
"We're not
Methdiss, because they just sprinkle you." The littlest one  said, 
"Didn't you

smell that water!" "Yeah! What do you think that means?" "I  think it means
we're Pisscopalians .

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Joe Knight]

What yr & model?  I'll see if I can pull it up on the epc.

joe

On 8/9/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> thanx,...where is the seat back motor?
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
>

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Joe Knight]

If the motor's working you should be able to use jumpers direct to run
it, hot to one, ground to the other, reversing the connections to run
the other way.  I did this a lot while rebuilding the driver's seat in
my wagon.  There's a good chance it's a wiring problem resulting from
all the flexing as the seat is moved.  If you're real lucky the
problem will just be bad contacts in the switch.  If you do wind up
fooling with the wiring to the motors pay very close attention to the
routing; it can be a pain to get this right so the seat can move
throughout its range w/o binding on something.

joe

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[JJJ]

thanx,...where is the seat back motor?

Re: [MBZ] Odometer Question

[Joe Knight]

The odometer is purely mechanical in your car, Dan.  No electrics
involved, except for lighting.  That's not to say it mightn't have
malfunctioned at some point.  Without very complete service records
and a pretty good knowledge of the vehicle's history I don't know how
you'd go about ascertaining that.

joe

Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals

[Joe Knight]

Not to dispute anything Marshall has said, but I did replace the seals
& o-rings on the albatross's pump when a couple of them started
leaking after it'd been sitting idle for 6-8 weeks.  Replacement did
cure that problem.  Per Marshall's suggestion, I would rule out
everything else first, but if you do decide to do this, you'll want to
torque the fittings using the specs in the TDM rather than the fsm;
just ask for this if you decide to go ahead.  Have you tried cracking
the injection lines one by one with the engine idling in an attempt to
isolate the problem to one or more cylinders?  Don't remember if
you've definitively ruled out a balky injector.

joe

Re: [MBZ] Seat motor question

[Tom Hargrave]

Could be the motor, could be the switch or could be the fuse.
 
Operate the up switch while pulling up on the back of the seat - you might
get lucky.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com


 

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of JJJ
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 9:31 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Seat motor question


as reported yesterday, one of my seat motors quit...i messed with it untill
i had reclined the seat back fully, making the car very hard to drive...
 
if i can't find something obvious after removing this heavy lounger, how
might i bypass the switch to get the seat back up? are both leads to the
switch hot? (one up, one down)

[MBZ] New Mexico 300SEL - CL

[Chuck Landenberger]

To all

Craigslist Phoenix for 8/9/05

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/89894895.html

 Classic  Mercedes 1971, 300 SEL, Daily Driver, Always Garaged, 3.5L  - 
$4000 

[MBZ] Seat motor question

[JJJ]

as reported yesterday, one of my seat motors quit...i messed with it untill i 
had reclined the seat back fully, making the car very hard to drive...

if i can't find something obvious after removing this heavy lounger, how might 
i bypass the switch to get the seat back up? are both leads to the switch hot? 
(one up, one down)

Re: [MBZ] OT A find

[Rich Thomas]

Igniter coil from an oil burner.  Kinda heavy but give a good voltage 
kick. You can make one of those things from the old monster movies with 
them, the thing with the two vertical rods angled a bit to each other, 
with the spark traveling up between them.  I think they are called a 
"Jacob's Ladder."


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

In a message dated 8/9/2005 12:33:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



Model A (I think), 




Model T coils were very good for these type of pranks.  They are 
housed in a wooden box.  Mike





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Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[LT Don]

The sort of personality that likes the 240D (such as mine) prefers to
have as little power equipment as possible, since that is only one
more item to break and need replacement. Or at least that is how I
feel.

On 8/9/05, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Good luck, though it seems a little pricey since it has neither PW nor
> a sunroof.
> 
-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.

Re: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals

[Marshall Booth]

Peter Arnold wrote:

Dave mentioned that changing the "Delivery Seals" may repair my pump.
Is that in the POS manual?  Parts & Tool from my usual Source {Rusty
or Salvation Army Thrift Shop}
I will be trying to advance the idle screw clockwise tonight per
Marshal's suggestion.

--


Delivery valve seals will NOT fix a problem with idle speed adjustment

Replacing delivery valve seals is RARELY needed, but IF required, 
nothing else will solve the problem. Maybe 1-2% of Mercedes injection 
pumps require them during their lifetime. There is really NO reliable 
test of delivery valve seals except with the pump on a test stand. It is 
probably wise to replace the pump seals IF you're going to replace the 
"O" rings on the delivery valve pipe fittings as the seals are 
inexpensive, but it's rarely actually necessary. The only reason to 
replace the seals is if there is uneven delivery from the IP to the 
injectors. My very crude test of delivery seals is to remove all the 
injection lines and crank the engine while watching what comes out of 
the pipe fittings - each should deliver about the same amount of fuel. A 
really proper test (the way it would be done on a test stand) would 
measure the output and pressure of each port during some number of 
revolutions of the pump - each should deliver about the same amount of fuel.


When playing with the injection pump a little finesse and care is 
required. The pump body is quite easy to distort if anything is 
overtightened (usually "repaired" by loosening and retightening using 
the proper torque/release technique as outlined in the Tech Data 
Manual), or a little too much force on a wrench CAN crack the housing 
and if that happens a new pump is the only solution.


I do NOT recommend people trying to "tune up" their injection pump as 
injection pumps rarely fail, do NOT routinely drift out of adjustment 
and about 90-95% of all injection pump problems occur right AFTER the 
pump has been "adjusted." Only if all of the injectors have been TESTED 
and shown to be working PERFECTLY but fuel delivery still seems uneven 
is there sufficient justification to even consider playing with the 
delivery valve seals (in MY opinion). Get half a dozen new seals AND "O" 
rings (and several spare "O" rings as it's easy to damage one or more 
when installing the delivery valve fittings). Oil the "O" ring when 
installing it. You'll need the splined socket and a torque wrench 
accurate in the 30-40 lb-ft range. The fittings CAN be removed with the 
intake manifold in place (but it's a little tight).


Worth checking the engine manual.

http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-8627.pdf

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[LT Don]

Gas increased significantly (still a few pennies cheaper than diesel)
and diesel stayed at $2.349.

On 8/9/05, Rick Hawkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Folkes,
> 
> I noticed something interesting here in North Georgia. A couple of
> weeks ago, gas was costing about  $2.21 and diesel $2.29. Sunday, the
> positions were reversed with gas at $2.29 and diesel $2.21.
> 
> Has this happened generally or just here? This is the first time in
> about a year and a half that I've seen diesel for LESS than gas.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> xx rick
> Rick Hawkins
> 
> www.javaphoto.com
> www.javacycles.com
> 
> payment by all major credit cards or by paypal
> 
> Java Photo
> Java Bajaj Cycles
> 107 Paradise Boulevard
> Athens, Georgia 30607
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 


-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.

Re: [MBZ] OT A find

[Slozukimc]

In a message dated 8/9/2005 12:33:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Model A (I think), 

Model T coils were very good for these type of pranks.  They are housed in a 
wooden box.  Mike

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[andrew strasfogel]

Good luck, though it seems a little pricey since it has neither PW nor
a sunroof.

On 8/9/05, Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Gary,
>  
> No I won't be bidding but I thought I asked anyway, is that some sort of
> leak in the first picture or the remains of a car washing job?
>  
> Hendrik
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: Schisler, Gary 
> To: Mercedes mailing list 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 8:10 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D
> 
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1979-Mercedes-240D-diesel_W0QQitemZ4567424013QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> 
>  
> 
> Listing my 79 240D on eBay.  Come one, come all.  Bid high!  ;>)
> 
>  
> 
> Gary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.10.1/64 - Release Date: 4/08/2005
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
>

Re: [MBZ] OT A find

[Slozukimc]

In a message dated 8/9/2005 12:32:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Fun project for the evening:   try making a tazer out of a disposable 
> camera.   (hint: flash circuit!)
> 

I'll have to buy one just to try that..COOLMike

Re: [MBZ] Sold a car, buyer never came to get it??????

[Slozukimc]

In a message dated 8/9/2005 12:31:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Where is it located?

Upstate NY.  Mike

[MBZ] Odometer Question

[DElliott%SWS]

Hello All,

I am trying to determine (guess?) if my miles are correct on my odometer.
I know that the previous owner had some transistors replaced in the
instrument panel.  Does the odometer ever or typically break in such a way,
electronically, that they stop recording miles on these W123's?  I know
about the bad gear problem.  I know this is a very speculative question.

TIA,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi

Re: [MBZ] Sold a car, buyer never came to get it??????

[Slozukimc]

In a message dated 8/9/2005 12:29:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> I didn't buy it did I?
> 
> wasn't this that rather nice looking (for $100) blue 240D?
> 
> was it automatic or stick?
> 
> 
> 

Rob,
  YES, IT WAS YOU!!!  And I am contacting my attorney now.I am suing for 
the value of an old HondaLOLOLOLOLOL!  Nope not you.  Guy is from here 
in NY so that is why I am so upset that he hasn't come to get it.  It's only 
a 2 1/2 hour drive from here to his place and that's driving a 240D ;>).
  Yes it is the blue 240D you were looking at before.  The motor still runs 
good although it blows alot of oil at high RPM so i am thinking it would 
probably last for years as a low RPM genset powerplant and being the body is so 
nice 
it is BEGGING ME to put a nice small block 400 under the hood and have my MB 
back again.  I'm betting I could use a 400 powered 240 for a tow vehicle;>)

Later, Mike

Re: [MBZ] FW: [DIESEL] W123 center vent actuator R&R instructions

[andrew strasfogel]

Thanks!!- 

Will whoever has the spare parts please email me privately?

Andrew

On 8/8/05, Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm just the messenger here, Chuck; wanted to make sure that I had
> saved it somewhere.
> Thank Spud and those who provided him guidance.
> 
> joe
> 
> On 8/8/05, Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Joe,
> >
> > Priceless!
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] OT A find

[Slozukimc]

In a message dated 8/9/2005 12:14:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> > Would a cap hold a charge for 9 hours?
> 
> A good capacitor, yes.
> 
> 

A good capacitor, if left unbridged, will actually pick up a "static charge" 
from the atmosphere.  Be careful using large onesThey can be quite 
dangerous if you were to touch both leads.  Mike

Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[Hendrik Riessen]

Hi Gary,

No I won't be bidding but I thought I asked anyway, is that some sort of leak 
in the first picture or the remains of a car washing job?

Hendrik
  - Original Message - 
  From: Schisler, Gary 
  To: Mercedes mailing list 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 8:10 PM
  Subject: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D


  
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1979-Mercedes-240D-diesel_W0QQitemZ4567424013QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

   

  Listing my 79 240D on eBay.  Come one, come all.  Bid high!  ;>)

   

  Gary



--


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Re: [MBZ] preferred $5000 car? (kinda OT)

[Curt Raymond]

For cheap and reliable an older Subaru is tough to beat. My wife's friend has a 
Legacy wagon thats got 300,000+ miles without the engine being opened. They 
know they're living on borrowed time and are shopping for a boneyard engine now.
I'd stay away from AWD, I mean all the hype would make you think its absolutely 
totally vital, but I've commuted for 2 years in a RWD 240D and FWD cars are so 
much better in the snow. AWD is just something else to break and from all 
accounts is a serious PITA to fix.
Also hard to go wrong with a Toyota, a friend has a '93 Camry that he's driven 
the stink out of, 400,000 miles last I knew but he's on his second engine. 
Frankly for being plastic cars the Legacy and Camry are the first two cars I've 
ever seen where the body outlasted an excellent engine. Neither of them are 
throwaway cars in the way the Breeze is.
Too bad she won't drive a W123 diesel, $5k would buy you a real nice one.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 22:39:35 -0400
From: Rob S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] preferred $5000 car? (kinda OT)
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

What will $5K get ya nowadays?

Redhead's Plymouth Breeze is in need of more work than it's worth, and 
she commutes 70 miles a day.   We're not going to take out a loan to 
buy a car so the cap is about $5K.  less would be much better.

Safety, Fuel economy, reliability without much maintenance, and 
drivability are the  key shopping points.

Early C classes are starting to fall into this price range, although I 
doubt they're reliable at that price.

late 80's, early 90's E classes are right about there.

Subaru Legacy / Outback   are great AWD contenders.

90's Accord / Camry are boring as anything but easy to find.


She wants an airbag, AC, automatic, and ABS.   That's really all she 
requires as features.

She doesn't mind riding in my 123, but has no interest in driving a 
diesel, or any car requiring a "ritual" to start it or turn it off.

any opinions?

-Rob



-
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 

Re: [MBZ] clock stopped

[Curt Raymond]

I'm a senior tech for a company that makes video editing software, recently 
I've been supervising some kids working for us at an outsource company in 
Canada. The hardest thing has been teaching them to look at the simple stuff 
first. Just yesterday one of them was trying to help a guy figure out why his 
fonts didn't work. After working on it for 15 minutes he finally asked me, I 
had him check the fonts folder... Gee the fonts he wants aren't there, shocker.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 15:51:48 -0700
From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] clock stopped
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Marshall is biting his tongue, or he has me on ignore

Fuse

Doh


__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

Re: [MBZ] Back on the 'net

[Rich Thomas]

1 out of 3 ain't bad

--R

redghost wrote:


David,

Welcome to the soviet socialist republic of washington.  The Governor 
is a whore, the county executive is a great example of why affirmative 
action is a failure, and the diesel benz are plenty and cheap


On Monday, August 8, 2005, at 08:01 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:

 


I'm finally back on the Internet, after my cross-country move from Ann
Arbor, MI to Auburn, WA.  The trip went smoothly.  The only Mercedes
sighting of note was a very clean-looking Unimog I saw making stately
progress along I-94, near Miles City, Montana.

It's good to be back online.  You don't realize how dependent you are 
on

the Internet for looking up things like addresses until you don't have
it for a while.

   


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA


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Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

huh?

Schisler, Gary wrote:


IYKWIM ???


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] diesel prices

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I have noticed for short periods diesel has been less than gas, it only 
lasts a day or 2 though.


Rick Hawkins wrote:


Folkes,

I noticed something interesting here in North Georgia. A couple of weeks 
ago, gas was costing about $2.21 and diesel $2.29. Sunday, the positions 
were reversed with gas at $2.29 and diesel $2.21.


Has this happened generally or just here? This is the first time in 
about a year and a half that I've seen diesel for LESS than gas.




thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com

payment by all major credit cards or by paypal

Java Photo
Java Bajaj Cycles
107 Paradise Boulevard
Athens, Georgia 30607




___
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For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts