[MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-23 Thread Brian Chase
I actually drove the thing today. Shifts real hard and with a jerk. I would 
envy that type of shift in my musclecar, but with this auto, it seems to 
indicate a problem? Or something not as it should be? I told him to check 
the fluid, and it was below the second mark. It took a couple seconds to 
drop into gear (both D and R) and this is what made me tell him to check the 
level.


The rear windows act funny, sort of hesitating, and then catching up. He 
says it's no problem.


By the way, it's an '82 I believe and he is asking $6500. I know - too much.

Anyway, I don't think it's worth the risk to us. The wife expressed interest 
in it.



Brian
83 240D

_
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Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
diesels dont have a redline, they are governed and wont go over a 
certain RPM, well, unless you have a serious problem, in that case a 
redline on a tach is not going to help you anyways.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Noticed today there is no redline on my tachometer -- just where is the 
redline?  Although I know transmission is not going to allow the engine to 
continue to accelerate as it nears redline (I don't think) , but I'm curious 
about where it is.


TIA --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, '91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb

2006-02-23 Thread Rick Knoble
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orange-1977-Mercedes-Benz-300D_W0QQitemZ4614098881QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Kinda low feedback, but hey it's it OK.
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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That IS my interior!

On 2/22/06, Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orange-1977-Mercedes-Benz-300D_W0QQitemZ4614098881QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 Kinda low feedback, but hey it's it OK.
 Rick Knoble
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT
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--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread Jim Cathey

diesels dont have a redline, they are governed and wont go over a
certain RPM, well, unless you have a serious problem, in that case a
redline on a tach is not going to help you anyways.


They do have a 'redline', but for whatever reason MB doesn't
mark it on the tach.  I guess because the governor theoretically
won't let you go there, but by downshifting stupidly, or being
pushed down a steep grade by your trailer you can go over.
The diesel in my pickup truck has a redline, at 2500 RPM.
It also has a governor that cuts it off right there.  I'm
told that somewhere around 4k things start breaking, and no
doubt there's weakening stress somewhat before that.

(Don't even get me started on the time my wife downshifted
from 5 to 2 on the freeway!)


That's a lot of revs for a diesel, which still amazes me.


OTOH, the gas Hercules in my generator, which bears a pretty
strong resemblance to an OM352 or Cummins 6B, also has a
top end around 2500 RPM.  Seems to be size related, and
most diesels that people have experience with are larger
ones.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Droopy glove box door

2006-02-23 Thread lee
Pull out the glove compartment box. It is held in with some plastic rivet-like 
things. Pull out the plug in the middle of each rivet first, then the 
plastic sleeve will also come out. Once you have them all out, remove the 
glove compartment light and pull the box. 

Disassembling the door is a bit more of a booger. You must remove the plastic 
inside liner, and it is held in place by some weird screw thingies. They are 
nuts with slotted heads, and they have the threaded bolt part coming up 
through the middle. I took a large flathead screwdriver and a cutoff disk, 
and cut a large notch in  the screwdriver blade so I could loosen and tighten 
these. 

I disremember how the hinges come off the lid, but it will be evident, and 
straightforward, once you get the plastic inner cover off the lid. 

Or at least that is how it was with my wife's '80 300CD. 

Lee


On Wednesday 22 February 2006 4:21, andrew strasfogel wrote:
 Not a trivial job for me, alas.  I could use some explicit directions on
 disassembling the door and hinges.  Any volunteers?

 On 2/22/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Does someone have the fix for a tilted glove box door that flies open
   every
   time we drive over a bump - 1983 W123 300 TD?  The left hinge appear
   to be
   bent...
 
  If you take it all apart you may be able to bend/repair whatever it
  is that is out of whack.  Our 123's door was a mess when we got it,
  but it's a lot better now.  It comes apart fairly easily.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] timing is EVERYTHING!

2006-02-23 Thread Jim Cathey
Where is the chain tensioner located?  Is it on the driver's side of 
the


Passenger side, I think.


engine?  Could this alone cause the engine not to start by throwing the
timing off that much?  How easily can the tensioner be replaced?


I've never done it on a diesel, but did remove the one on my M130
in the 250C.  (Seals were shot.)  It unscrewed off the side of the
block, once all the crap was out of the way.  They're supposed to
fill with oil so that they don't loosen, and are spring-loaded to
take up slack.  Its oil check valve is what gives it the one-way
action.  If that leaks, or its piston/bore clearance is shot, the
tensioner will loosen up while off, and there's a nasty clatter
after startup until it pumps up with oil again.  That 'impending
death rattle' is common on V8 gassers, and is your clue that it's
time to address the chain and tensioner before it's too late.

Part of installing a new one involves manually pumping it full of oil
before you hit the starter.  Loose chain == very bad!

If the timing does jump, on a diesel I'd expect a forced introduction
of pistons to valves.  Though it is possible that only the injection
pump could have jumped.  Although I hear it'll run, poorly, no matter
what the pump timing is.  If you can get it started.

You _really_ need to address that loose chain.  The tensioner
should probably be examined first.  If you can get it to tighten
the chain you can check the chain stretch (via timing marks) to
see if it is shot.  If the tensioner is all the way extended
and it's still loose then it's a near-death chain, or there's
a guide that's not working resulting in a too-short chain path.
(Or some bozo put in an extra link!)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Housing costs

2006-02-23 Thread Tom Scordato
Brother in law bought his house 6 years ago in suburb of Boston for 275K. 
It is with in the known 100 mile each way  commuting radius (one way) of the 
city , three bedroom ranch on an acre, 1970s neighborhood.


Selling it for over 600K.  40 years ago Boston's housing dollar was about 
equal with Syracuse NY.  What happened?


New York's commuting radius that people drive is up to 150 miles one way. 
Two and a half hours each way at 2:00AM with no traffic.  With 
traffic/bridge waits 3 to 5 hours each way.  What will it be in 20 years? 
You  have 100 million or so people with in a 1000 mile radius of NYC all 
looking for he same thing.  300 million people in the US and growing!


Regards Tom Scordato



































- Original Message - 
From: redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Housing costs


More a matter of their database not being updated for all homes sold in
the recent past than gross errors.  Seattle company, and I check sales
on my properties v. valuations at present.  The site is very close, but
I feel optimistic.  YMMV

On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 06:41 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:


My house was valued at 101K by the site...that's 10,000K more than the
 PO payed 6 years ago, but does not take into account the skyrocketing
 prices in my part of Kansas City. I paid $160,000 6 months ago and it
 was a good deal. It has my neighbors houses WAY too low too.

  If my house were 2 blocks East, it would be worth over $300,000 -
GARUANTEED (or however you spell that word)...AMAZINGLY, the website
does reflect the higher values of houses two blocks away into
account...and is probably closer with those. That is impressive. But
it  is so far off on my block that  one must conclude it is grossly
inaccurate. If I offered my house for anywhere near what that site
values it at, it would be sold within hours. Ditto for my neighbors.

  Chris

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  
with taxes and escrow and the like, it comes to over a grand a month.
i
consider that a lot of money.

The new website www.zillow.com purports to give market prices for any
house
in the country by simply entering the address. The possible market
values of
houses in my neighborhood that I see every day is truly astonishing.
Who knew?

I've been looking up all my friend's homes just for fun.

RLE/Seattle
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 211K, Wulf
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] Mogs

2006-02-23 Thread Jim Cathey
I've been looking at your Mog on your web site and noticed that you 
live in
Spokane?  That's where I was born  raised (well, there and Missoula). 
 My
Mom still lives in Spokane and usually visit her once a year.  What I 
can
see of your land looks awesome.  What part of Spokane do you live?  I 
live


Greenacres area, in the hills approaching Mica peak.  Because it
is so hilly, my natural inclination to have a tractor wasn't practical
unless I got a newer 4WD version, and for that kind of money I could
have a Mog instead!  And so it was.

out in the middle of the Mojave desert.  I'm in the middle of my frame 
off

restoration on a '66 404 hard cab with pritsche bed.  Keeps me out of
trouble (that and the Alfa, '68 Saab 96, etc.).


Desert sounds like just the right area for a lengthy restoration.
Can do most of it outside w/o rust issues.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] '91 300D 2.5

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Howdy -
This  is probably a dumb question -- is the 91 300D considered a W124 
chassis?  What is the engine and trans type numbers?


Getting ready to order some filters and such - just want to make sure I do 
it right - Rusty's sale is happening at the right time!  The seller says the 
oil was just changed and he's getting the records of what else was changed -


Anyway - I appreciate the help --


The car is a 124.128. The engine is a 602.96 and the transmission is a 
722.4 series.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




[MBZ] these people are on crack or something

2006-02-23 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
who would take out a perfectly good 150k mile engine to install another 
unknown engine?


Wierd

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300-SD-M-B-300-SD-recent-engine-1982-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ4615195472QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Green fuel pumps and nozzles

2006-02-23 Thread Dan Weeks

Marshall:

Thanks for the email address for BP. Here's the email I just sent 
them. I trust you approve of my use of ALL CAPS for appropriate 
EMPHASIS:


BP:

Will you folks PLEASE adhere to the industry standard and use 
green-colored fuel nozzles ONLY for diesel fuel? A while ago I 
inadvertently put three gallons of gasoline in my diesel-powered 
Mercedes because it was dispensed by a green nozzle--a color used by 
every other fuel pump I've ever used only to dispense #2 diesel fuel. 
I was not pleased, and until you folks decide to join the rest of the 
fuel retailing world and use green pump nozzles only for diesel fuel, 
I'll be buying all my #2 elsewhere. Not only for my Mercedes, but for 
the 3 other diesel cars and the two semi tractors in my family's 
fleet.


By the way, I don't own the semis, my brother does. He also owns one 
of the family's three diesel V-Dubs, and my stepson-in-law owns the 
other. But close enough for me!


Dan
--
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k



Re: [MBZ] Droopy glove box door

2006-02-23 Thread Aaron Lam
Instead of cutting notches in screwdrivers, just use a pair of needlenose
pliers (use the tips to lock into the slots of the nut)

-Aaron


Re: [MBZ] Mogs

2006-02-23 Thread Desert Rat
Hi Kelly,

What part of the Mojave Desert?
--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 140K Stardust
1985 380SL 145K Blue Belle
1996 Sidekick 57K Kermit



Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread Christopher McCann
true there is no readline on the tach, but there are those handy little 
hashmarks on the speedo for downshifting purposes.
  
  Chris

Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:   diesels dont have a redline, they are 
governed and wont go over a
 certain RPM, well, unless you have a serious problem, in that case a
 redline on a tach is not going to help you anyways.

They do have a 'redline', but for whatever reason MB doesn't
mark it on the tach.  I guess because the governor theoretically
won't let you go there, but by downshifting stupidly, or being
pushed down a steep grade by your trailer you can go over.
The diesel in my pickup truck has a redline, at 2500 RPM.
It also has a governor that cuts it off right there.  I'm
told that somewhere around 4k things start breaking, and no
doubt there's weakening stress somewhat before that.

(Don't even get me started on the time my wife downshifted
from 5 to 2 on the freeway!)

 That's a lot of revs for a diesel, which still amazes me.

OTOH, the gas Hercules in my generator, which bears a pretty
strong resemblance to an OM352 or Cummins 6B, also has a
top end around 2500 RPM.  Seems to be size related, and
most diesels that people have experience with are larger
ones.

-- Jim


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 211K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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On Wednesday, February 22, 2006, at 07:49 PM, Tom Scordato wrote:

   What will it be in 20 years?
 You  have 100 million or so people with in a 1000 mile radius of NYC 
 all
 looking for he same thing.  300 million people in the US and growing!

 Regards Tom Scordato


More people will be working from home, look at the technology of 
today. Video conferencing is the next best thing to being there.
Who knows where it will go. I believe that for many, their 
geographical location will have little to no effect on where their 
check comes from.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


[MBZ] diesel fuel and green nozzles

2006-02-23 Thread Christopher McCann
I realize that your corporate color is a very nice green, but I think  you got 
a bit carried away whenever you decided to make the handles on  ALL your pumps 
green. A green pump - in ANY other fueling station - is  DIESEL FUEL. I own 
three diesels and I always have to take extra care  while at a BP 
station...bordering on Obsesive Compulsive Disorder - to  make sure that DIESEL 
is being pumped into my Mercedes. I know of  people who failed to make that 
distinction at a BP station and put  gasoline into their diesel car becuase of 
the green handle.  GREEN=DIESEL when it comes to fueling stations.
  
  My wife also has a Mercedes diesel. I told her that diesel pumps are  nearly 
always green, EXCEPT AT BP, SO DON'T GO THERE. I can't risk her  making the 
mistake.
  
  PLEASE GET WITH THE PROGRAM.
  
  Thank You,
  
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 211K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
 
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It's a Mercedes - it doesn't need no stinkin' RED line!

On 2/22/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 true there is no readline on the tach, but there are those handy little h=
ashmarks on the speedo for downshifting purposes.

   Chris

 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:   diesels dont have a redline, they =
are governed and wont go over a
  certain RPM, well, unless you have a serious problem, in that case a
  redline on a tach is not going to help you anyways.

 They do have a 'redline', but for whatever reason MB doesn't
 mark it on the tach.  I guess because the governor theoretically
 won't let you go there, but by downshifting stupidly, or being
 pushed down a steep grade by your trailer you can go over.
 The diesel in my pickup truck has a redline, at 2500 RPM.
 It also has a governor that cuts it off right there.  I'm
 told that somewhere around 4k things start breaking, and no
 doubt there's weakening stress somewhat before that.

 (Don't even get me started on the time my wife downshifted
 from 5 to 2 on the freeway!)

  That's a lot of revs for a diesel, which still amazes me.

 OTOH, the gas Hercules in my generator, which bears a pretty
 strong resemblance to an OM352 or Cummins 6B, also has a
 top end around 2500 RPM.  Seems to be size related, and
 most diesels that people have experience with are larger
 ones.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread OK Don
True - there is one in the 450SLC, at an absurdly low RPM.

On 2/22/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  It's a Mercedes - it doesn't need no stinkin' RED line!

 Except that the gassers do have red marks on the tach.
 Go figure.

 -- Jim

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] couple 124 questions

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Sunil Hari wrote:

My 1992 300D needs some maintenance work.  A few questions, if you don't
mind.

1)  When checking ATF level, the maintenance manual says to shift to P, run
engine for 1 to 2 minutes, and check the fluid level.  While checking,
should the engine be running?  I ask because there's another line that says,
With the transmission at operating temperature, the oil level should be at
the max mark.

2)  Power steering fluid - to replace it, I know you suck out what you can
out of the reservoir.  How do you get the rest out?  I tried to check
skinnerbox, but the site is down.




The car needs to be driven for 15-20 minutes before you take a reading 
to be sure the transmission fluid reaches 80 deg C (normal operating 
temp). At lower temps, the fluid will read low. At 20 deg C (68 F), the 
level will be 10-12 mm below the lower mark on the dipstick. It is not 
essential that the transmission be running at the moment you make the 
reading (unless the valve in the torque converter is leaking down rather 
quickly) but it needs to have been running very shortly before you make 
the reading to insure that the converter is filled and the fluid is at 
operating temperature.


Marshall


--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread Dave M.
Old spec was 5150rpm, +/- 150rpm, or 5000-5300. Later specs from the
WIS specify +/- 250rpm, which is a 4900-5400 range. Both are limited
by a setting inside the rear cover of the injection pump. I turned
mine up to about 5300-5400.

:-)

-Dave M.

 --
 Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 18:23:14 -0500
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] RPM Redline

 Noticed today there is no redline on my tachometer -- just where is the
 redline?  Although I know transmission is not going to allow the engine to
 continue to accelerate as it nears redline (I don't think) , but I'm curious
 about where it is.

 TIA --

 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, '91 300D Turbo)



Re: [MBZ] W124 TD rear leveling AGAIN!

2006-02-23 Thread Loren Faeth

Jeff,

The pump is rebuildable.  If you need a rebuild, call Rusty with you VIN, 
and the manufacturer from the plate on the side of the pump, and Rusty will 
get a kit to you.  Both of mine are Vickers, but 2 different kind of 
pumps.  I would guess you could crack the high pressure line at the pump 
with the engine running to determine if the pump is pumping.  I have never 
done this, but it seems like it should work.


Loren

At 04:43 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

The arm to my valve is not loose but the arm itself can rotate freely
once the rod is detached from it. It cacn go round and round with the
engine running and there's no tension.

Right now I'm suspecting the valve itself is toast.

I'm hoping it's not the tandem pump!

Jeff Zedic
Toronto


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[MBZ] W124 fire extinguisher part info

2006-02-23 Thread Dave M.
Hi all,

I finally got my 1.0kg fire extinguisher installed on the diesel. The
larger 1.3kg unit is no longer available, AFAIK. There is mucho
confusion regarding some of the part numbers for the mounting
buckets... I got most of it straightened out, but I still have a few
nagging doubts on a couple things. Anyway, I uploaded photos of
everything, with part numbers in the photos. Warning: If you buy a new
1.0kg unit (yes, they are available from Rusty or your local
stealership), it may arrive uncharged... you need to get it charged at
the airport, or fire department, or someplace that does that stuff.
Anyway, here's the photos:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_fire_ext/

The 1.0kg extinguisher is something like $100-$125 new (I got mine
used), the bracket, bucket, and assorted hardware adds up to about
another $50 or so. The early buckets with carpet for the older 1.3kg
units are a LOT more expensive. Lucky for me, the previous owner of my
E500 had purchased a used 1.3kg setup, which is also shown in the
aforementioned photos.

:-)

Best regards,

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)



Re: [MBZ] Green fuel pumps and nozzles

2006-02-23 Thread Loren Faeth
I sent them MY suggestion with EMPHASIS in some places!  THANKS for the 
email address!


I do agree that Most cases are operator error and I can't blame them for 
that, but there was sort of a voluntary standard that green = diesel, and 
they violated that self-imposed standard.  Voluntary standards are MUCH 
better than .gov imposed regs.  They have confused the marketplace.


Loren

At 03:10 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]





Re: [MBZ] Brake Fluid Flush

2006-02-23 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Larry - its ABS - and the main thing to remember when flushing the brake 
fluid is to use enough pressure, probably around 20 psi.  I was too 
conservative at one of the GWS tech sessions several years ago, and managed 
to drain the lines and leave lots of air in them.  Learned that ABS systems 
need to use more pressure!  The M-B mechanic did a quick fix with me on the 
pedal, but that procedure is not recommended, especially with older master 
cylinders.
I'd recommend taking your time and doing one wheel first to get the 
technique down correctly.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Brake Fluid Flush



Howdy -
One of these days I plan to flush the brake fluid.  Is there anything I 
need

to know or do differently since the 300D has ASB - is that the right
initials? - anti-lock braking -   anyway - I will be using a pressure 
system

to bleed it -

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, '91 300D Turbo 2.5)





Re: [MBZ] Nozzle Change!!!!

2006-02-23 Thread Loren Faeth

Ya dang FURRNERS- - Ya got rong colors fer da DEIZEL nozzls.Plees fix
em !!!


At 05:37 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

Yu FOREIGNERS- - Yu got rong colors for da DIESEL nozzles.Plees fix
it !!!





Re: [MBZ] timing is EVERYTHING!

2006-02-23 Thread Loren Faeth
Tensioner is right ahead of the exhaust manifold.  It comes out with 2 nuts 
removed.  One (17) is half on the manifold and half on the tensioner.  THe 
other (13 or 14) is on the tensioner.  It is much easier to do if you take 
the 2 nuts off the thermostat housing and pull off the housing.  You will 
need tensioner, Oring seal for tensioner, gasket for thermostat housing, 
short piece of hose between the thermo housing and water pump.  It is an 
easy job as long as you don't twist off any of the studs in the head.  You 
will be dealing with 2 studs for the tensioner and 2 for the thermo housing.


The chain CAN'T jump the inj pump sprocket unless the capscrews on the 
hump of the injection timer housing on the block is removed.


It could make the engine hard to start.  If it turns over, the chain has 
not jumped the cam sprocket.  If it jumped, you would have the pistons 
hitting the valves, and lots of noise, damage, jamming.


It is much more likely that it has poor compression.  How hard is it to 
turn the engine over by hand?  If you can't feel compression, you've got 
none.  Inj timing can be off a LOT and the engine will still run.  Valve 
timing can be off some, and it will still start.


Loren

At 05:51 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

Where is the chain tensioner located?  Is it on the driver's side of the
engine?  Could this alone cause the engine not to start by throwing the
timing off that much?  How easily can the tensioner be replaced?

TIA,

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1973 220D


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Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago

2006-02-23 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Curt - you're right, its been a long time since I fooled with a manual 
tranny.  I would therefore assume that if your 240D calls for ATF, then by 
all means use Mobil1 - the cold and high temp characteristics alone are 
worth it!  My comment that 4 cylinder engines should be easier to spin when 
cold than 5 cylinder engines was just based on the work that is being done 
on less parts.  Maybe Marshall has some data that would give insight as to 
why the 240D needs more or less effort from the starter than the newer cars, 
such as the newer design of the glow system?


And I agree that having more resistance in the battery cable connections is 
bad, and you should always try and keep corrosion out of them, and keep them 
clean and tight.  But old cables don't have increased resistance due to 
age - the metallurgy of the copper doesn't change with age.  Corrosion at 
the connections will increase the resistance, though, and that has to be 
addressed.  In more than 50 years, I have never had to change a cable for 
being old, but I have had to repair corroded connections many times!


You can check resistance of the cable/connector circuit with a voltmeter, 
measuring from the battery terminal to the starter, and battery to engine 
ground.  I would be suspicious of a voltage drop under load of more than 1 
Volt.  Remember that there are hundreds of Amperes flowing in those cables 
when the starter is doing its thing.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago



Hi Werner,

 Sounds like you haven't maintained a manual trans in awhile. My 240D and 
190D both call for ATF, I'm just curious if anybody has acutally tried 
Mobil 1 ATF. I had an '88 GMC with a manual trans and it used ATF, my '84 
Ford Tempo did too.


 Some of what you wrote confused me all my cars are 4cyl, 190D 2.2l and a 
240D. I think that whatever it is that makes the 190D more efficient 
(other than not having 3 fat guys in the back seat) also makes it start 
better. I don't know if thats greater compression or better heat 
transferance from the glowplugs or whatever...


 The important thing here is that I think the battery cables haven't been 
changed in 20+ years and should at the very least be swapped out. I'm SURE 
they've gained in resistance. How much I dunno but I bet they've gained 
something and when its really cold (like -20F) and every amp counts I want 
it to be able to get there.


 -Curt





[MBZ] Lower control arm bushings

2006-02-23 Thread Jerry Herrman
What is involved in replacing the lower control arm bushings (inner) on an 82 
240D?  Are special tools needed?  Is this a job that can be done by someone 
with ordinary automotive skills like changing a water pump and master cylinder, 
or is this a job for a professional mechanic with special equipment? Thanks in 
advance.

Jerry 82 240D
230,000 miles
Just keeps going

 


[MBZ] Pack of $100 cars

2006-02-23 Thread redghost

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/135058698.html

Guy has at least four cars, all diesel, all styles, and I think all he 
wants is $100 each. I have not called to verify.


CD
TD
D
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




[MBZ] ED BOOHER WAKE UP!!!!

2006-02-23 Thread redghost

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/134409718.html

$500 for a 250S


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Howdy -
Took a quick look at the engine a little while ago - the main fuel filter 
looks like a tight fit.  Is it a PITA or easier than it looks?


On several of my engines it's easiest to loosen the two screws that hold 
the filter bracket to the engine to allow the filter bracket to be 
lifted up and the filter to be extracted when the center screw is 
loosened. See:


 http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Maintenance/MY81/0780.pdf

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] timing is EVERYTHING!

2006-02-23 Thread redghost
Call Rusty and get a new chain.  With timing off by that much it would 
be a miracle if the thing ran.  While you are in there, adjust the 
valves.



On Wednesday, February 22, 2006, at 02:04 PM, kevin kraly wrote:

Just as the subject line says, TIMING IS EVERYTHING!  I took the valve 
cover
off this little 220D today and checked things over.  It appears that 
the

TIMING is far from perfect right now.  There are points in the engine
revolution where the chain can be lifted away from the cam sprocket 
anywhere
from 1/4 to about 1/2 of an inch.  For some reason, this doesn't seem 
normal

to me.  I think that this engine is in need of a new chain.  However, I
don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on this engine if it's warn 
out.

Any suggestions on what I should do would be appreciated!

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1973 220D project?  Parts car?  Junker?


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago

2006-02-23 Thread redghost
I am using M1 ATF in both Gump and Cleo.  Shifting in both has improved 
after change over and love the feeling after 30k miles


On Wednesday, February 22, 2006, at 02:27 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:


Hi Werner,

  Sounds like you haven't maintained a manual trans in awhile. My 240D 
and 190D both call for ATF, I'm just curious if anybody has acutally 
tried Mobil 1 ATF. I had an '88 GMC with a manual trans and it used 
ATF, my '84 Ford Tempo did too.


  Some of what you wrote confused me all my cars are 4cyl, 190D 2.2l 
and a 240D. I think that whatever it is that makes the 190D more 
efficient (other than not having 3 fat guys in the back seat) also 
makes it start better. I don't know if thats greater compression or 
better heat transferance from the glowplugs or whatever...


  The important thing here is that I think the battery cables haven't 
been changed in 20+ years and should at the very least be swapped out. 
I'm SURE they've gained in resistance. How much I dunno but I bet 
they've gained something and when its really cold (like -20F) and 
every amp counts I want it to be able to get there.


  -Curt

  Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 14:44:27 -0500
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Curt - I suppose 15w50 is OK in warmer climates,and for worn engines,
but I
switched to 5W40 several years ago.  My local Mobil distributor claims
that
Delvac1 only comes that way!
I would think that the 240D would turn over better than the 300D,
simply
because there's one less cylinder to push.  My experience with the 5
cylinder engines is mostly with the turbo version in the SDs (and of
course
the 602 engine in my '90D), but my daughter has a '77 300D - and none
of us
has had any problems with starting them here in the mid-Atlantic area,
and
without resorting to the block heater, too.  But then again, we rarely
see
anything below +10F, either!
Perhaps there's enough difference in the performance of the glow plugs
in
the 4 cylinder engines to require the extra effort?
I have no concerns about putting in heavier cables for the starter
system,
but only say that my experience is that the OE set-up should be good
enough,
if its in good condition.
As for ATF in manual transmissions, I haven't any info.  In the old
days,
we usually used a gear oil (85W?), but I recall that in the 60s or 70s
Detroit started to put thinner engine oils in manual transmissions,
perhaps
to get better fuel mileage??  I do also remember an incident in Alaska
when
a GI brought a 4 cylinder Scout up from the lower 48 in the summer,
and by
January the running engine couldn't make the rear wheels turn as the
differential gear lube had turned solid.  Had to warm it up in a
garage, and
carve it out with a putty knife.  So a free-flowing lube certainly has
its
place, especially in cold climates!
Werner



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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo

2006-02-23 Thread Sunil Hari
marshall, that file didn't attach properly.  it -might- be because i don't
own the cd's, thus they are not in the drive.  But please help us who do not
own the cd's

On 2/22/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Howdy -
  Took a quick look at the engine a little while ago - the main fuel
 filter
  looks like a tight fit.  Is it a PITA or easier than it looks?

 On several of my engines it's easiest to loosen the two screws that hold
 the filter bracket to the engine to allow the filter bracket to be
 lifted up and the filter to be extracted when the center screw is
 loosened. See:

   http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Maintenance/MY81/0780.pdf

 Marshall
 --
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


[MBZ] winter break cars

2006-02-23 Thread redghost

delete at will,  I am only posting really interesting items this time


http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/136137982.html  -- 81 380sl $2200

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/136103912.html  --  86 sel  $1300

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/136046502.html  --  80 TD  $800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/135913988.html  --  stoner

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/135727374.html  --  87 sel  $1700

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/135649540.html  --  82 240d $3k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/135548628.html  --  77 240d $300

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/135270938.html  --  67 230 $700

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/134977374.html  --  62 180c $3800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/134507787.html  --  83 TD $6k


That is all I am going to say about that.



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi Werner
That's good to know about the pre-filters - actually, now that I think about 
it I believe the main fuel filter for the 240D and W124 300D is the same - 
sure looked the same.  This is going to make keeping an inventory of parts 
around for both vehicles much easier!


The main filter for 61x engines and 60x engines are different - they can 
NOT be interchanged. They look almost identical but the threads are a 
different size as I recall.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] winter break cars

2006-02-23 Thread OK Don
Kaleb !!!  This might be your 107 

On 2/22/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 delete at will,  I am only posting really interesting items this time


 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/136137982.html  -- 81 380sl $2200


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] Fuel Filter on my 91 300D Turbo

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Sunil Hari wrote:

marshall, that file didn't attach properly.  it -might- be because i don't
own the cd's, thus they are not in the drive.  But please help us who do not
own the cd's


If you can't reach THAT site, it's not my fault. I have NOTHING to do 
with it. It's just a picture of the filter bracket detached from the engine.


Johnny Bs. suggestion to loosen the vacuum line works best on SOME 201s.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread OK Don
Ahhh,  ---  Anarchy !!!

On 2/22/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 they dont have a governor


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 died on me

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

OK Don wrote:

No whoosh, and no further incidents 600 miles later. The fuel
filters will get replaced anyway.


How much fuel was in the tank when the engine quit? If less than 1/4 
tank, that further strengthens the plugged strainer/filter theory 
(thinks get touchy as the fuel level drops below 1/4).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Not getting messages

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Mitch Haley wrote:



http://www.pindelski.com/

The author is a graduate mechanical engineer and has been working on Mercedes 
cars for
nearly 20 years. The author's lifetime mileage in Mercedes cars exceeds 250,000 
miles.


I've been working on 'em for more than 40 years, have more than 
1,000,000 miles driving 'em and I'm FREE!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 died on me

2006-02-23 Thread OK Don
It was over half -- Tucumcari (last fill) to Albuquerque (where it
died) 175 miles. I wondered about that also ---

I was carrying a partial bottle of Power Service, and emptied it into
the tank the next morning with a fill in Albuquerque. It's run just
fine since then.


 How much fuel was in the tank when the engine quit? If less than 1/4
 tank, that further strengthens the plugged strainer/filter theory
 (thinks get touchy as the fuel level drops below 1/4).

 Marshall
 --

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] air filter on 92 300D

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What do I need that will tell me what I need to do as far as maintanence? 
How often for fuel filters, air filters, repack wheel bearings, and all the 
other things we need to do to keep our MB running in top form?


If you use the same intervals that were used for your 123, you won't be 
far off!!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Nozzle Change!!!!

2006-02-23 Thread Jeff

Loren Faeth wrote:


Ya dang FURRNERS- - Ya got rong colors fer da DEIZEL nozzls.Plees fix
em !!!


At 05:37 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:
 


Yu FOREIGNERS- - Yu got rong colors for da DIESEL nozzles.Plees fix
it !!!
   




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There must be something wrong with me because I read the sign on the 
pump that says Diesel or regular etc..I NEVER look at pump handle 
colours!


Jeff Zedic
Toronto




Re: [MBZ] W124 TD rear leveling AGAIN!

2006-02-23 Thread Jeff
The only pump I see a rebuild kit for is the PS pump WITHOUT self 
levelling rear...


Am I missing something??

Jeff Zedic
Toronto




Re: [MBZ] any thoughts on our new look?

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Gary Hurst wrote:

http://www.buymbparts.com/newdesign/index.html#http://www.buymbparts.com/newdesign/index.html


I HATE it! It's different and I'll get used to it - I guess.

It's MUCH classier and prettier ;-) but where is Rusty's picture?

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




[MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine work)

2006-02-23 Thread Kevin
from: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/134993520.html

black on black 92 350SD (w140) with 3.5L turbodiesel. Needs engine
work, clean title. $3850. 

Car is in Sacramento. See link for contact info. Looks like a good 
candidate for someone who wants one of these, and wants to buy a dead
one so that they can put in the reman engine and have some piece of mind
about it.

K



[MBZ] Ph.D.s per capita [was Re: Housing costs]

2006-02-23 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 11:34:59 -0600 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 It has the most PhDs per capita in the US, if not the UNIVERSE!


Compared to Los Alamos? I REALLY doubt that.



Craig



Re: [MBZ] daffy

2006-02-23 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 13:29:26 -0700 Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ha.
 Mer-say-des

Close: Mayr-Tsay-days


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb

2006-02-23 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 18:27:25 -0600 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 yea I know about that one
 
 Rick Knoble wrote:
 
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orange-1977-Mercedes-Benz-300D_W0QQitemZ4614098881QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


And you won it, too. Are you going to part it out? Any chance for some
dark blue or black sun visors?



Craig



Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:26:06 -0700 Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Old spec was 5150rpm, +/- 150rpm, or 5000-5300. Later specs from the
 WIS specify +/- 250rpm, which is a 4900-5400 range. Both are limited
 by a setting inside the rear cover of the injection pump. I turned
 mine up to about 5300-5400.

Do you have to remove the injection pump to do that? When I had my
injection pump checked on a test stand in Albuquerque, the fellow
apparently turned down the governor and now I can't make it to the ticks
for each of the gears (especially frustrating for the big hill south of
Santa Fe where I used to be able to go up at the speed limit of 75).


Craig

--- 
Craig McCluskey

Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 221 kmi
   Past: 1964 190Dc
 1972 220D/8
 1972 220/8
 1987 190E/2.3

 /\   
 \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN   Friends don't send friends
  X   AGAINST HTML MAIL   HTML email.
 / \  AND POSTINGS 
   http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html
  http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html



Re: [MBZ] Not getting messages

2006-02-23 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 23:37:27 -0500 Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Mitch Haley wrote:
 
  
  http://www.pindelski.com/
  
  The author is a graduate mechanical engineer and has been working on
  Mercedes cars for nearly 20 years. The author's lifetime mileage in
  Mercedes cars exceeds 250,000 miles.
 
 I've been working on 'em for more than 40 years, have more than 
 1,000,000 miles driving 'em and I'm FREE!


Thanks for all your help, Marshall.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] W124 fire extinguisher part info

2006-02-23 Thread John Berryman


On Feb 22, 2006, at 9:35 PM, Dave M. wrote:



http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_fire_ext/

The 1.0kg extinguisher is something like $100-$125 new (I got mine
used), the bracket, bucket, and assorted hardware adds up to about
another $50 or so. The early buckets with carpet for the older 1.3kg
units are a LOT more expensive. Lucky for me, the previous owner of my
E500 had purchased a used 1.3kg setup, which is also shown in the
aforementioned photos.

:-)

Best regards,

--
Dave M.



Dave,
	In photo ext_1.0kg3.jpg , I see some particles in the rubber floor  
mat. It appears to be dirt or sand. are you feeling OK?

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On Feb 22, 2006, at 11:42 PM, Jeff wrote:


There must be something wrong with me because I read the sign on the
pump that says Diesel or regular etc..I NEVER look at pump handle
colours!

Jeff Zedic



	I always look down to make sure I'm standing in a puddle of #2 	and  
speedi-dri before I pull the trigger.


	I have seen green plastic covers on regular unleaded nozzles all  
over the country many different name brands.

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Subject: [MBZ] The Ten Commandments
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TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR DIESEL MAINTENANCE
(from http://www.sdrm.org/roster/diesel/commandments.html)

1. Thou shalt keep thine engine clean and in adjustment that thy life in 
its company shall be long and that the owner shall increase thy pay.


2. Know thy engine and all its parts and functions,  else thou shalt be 
in some unholy spot.


3. Be not wise in thine own conceit. Remember the factory instructions 
and keep them holy, lest repairs be thine undoing.


4. Be not loose in thy jaw hinges for no man 

Re: [MBZ] ED BOOHER WAKE UP!!!!

2006-02-23 Thread Ed Booher
Holy crap, I guess so!  on my part. Just sent the seller an email.

On 2/22/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/134409718.html

 $500 for a 250S


 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner

 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.



Re: [MBZ] W124 TD rear leveling AGAIN!

2006-02-23 Thread Loren Faeth

Call Rusty!   Yes, you are missing something!

At 10:43 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

The only pump I see a rebuild kit for is the PS pump WITHOUT self
levelling rear...

Am I missing something??

Jeff Zedic
Toronto


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Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine work)

2006-02-23 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

WOW, that could be a decent deal, need to jew them down a bit though.

Kevin wrote:


from: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/134993520.html

black on black 92 350SD (w140) with 3.5L turbodiesel. Needs engine
work, clean title. $3850. 

Car is in Sacramento. See link for contact info. Looks like a good 
candidate for someone who wants one of these, and wants to buy a dead

one so that they can put in the reman engine and have some piece of mind
about it.

K

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb

2006-02-23 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

They will be white sun visors Im sure.

Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 18:27:25 -0600 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



yea I know about that one

Rick Knoble wrote:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orange-1977-Mercedes-Benz-300D_W0QQitemZ4614098881QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem




And you won it, too. Are you going to part it out? Any chance for some
dark blue or black sun visors?



Craig

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline

2006-02-23 Thread Dave M.
Craig,

Depends on the engine. On a 603, you don't need to pull the pump. On a
602, I'm not sure... if there's enough room to remove the rear
governor cover (six screws on the rectangular flat plate), you might
be able to. Remember, the tranny may upshift prior to the tick marks
on the speedo face.

To see if you're getting to the proper governor speed, try leaving the
gear shift in L and pinning the throttle... the engine should pull
to approx 5100rpm (+/-) and stay there. If you're well under 5000,
then you need to troubleshoot further... try the no-load test (floor
it in park for a couple seconds and see if it goes to 5100), if not,
you may have issues with air or fuel delivery...

:)

-dm

 --
 Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 22:53:02 -0700
 From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] RPM Redline


 On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:26:06 -0700 Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Old spec was 5150rpm, +/- 150rpm, or 5000-5300. Later specs from the
  WIS specify +/- 250rpm, which is a 4900-5400 range. Both are limited
  by a setting inside the rear cover of the injection pump. I turned
  mine up to about 5300-5400.

 Do you have to remove the injection pump to do that? When I had my
 injection pump checked on a test stand in Albuquerque, the fellow
 apparently turned down the governor and now I can't make it to the ticks
 for each of the gears (especially frustrating for the big hill south of
 Santa Fe where I used to be able to go up at the speed limit of 75).


 Craig



Re: [MBZ] Ph.D.s per capita [was Re: Housing costs]

2006-02-23 Thread Loren Faeth
It was true at sometime, probably 1980 census data.  I don't know or care 
if it is still true.  If you want to do the research on the current title, 
go ahead.


At 11:18 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 11:34:59 -0600 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 It has the most PhDs per capita in the US, if not the UNIVERSE!


Compared to Los Alamos? I REALLY doubt that.



Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 fire extinguisher part info

2006-02-23 Thread Dave M.
Actually, Johnny, I *have* been a little under the weather the past
week. Thanks for the concern, though! I'll scrub the floor mats and
re-shoot the photo when I have a chance. ;-)

BTW, in reply to another question, the fire extinguisher setups shown
in my photos will fit in any Mercedes, not just the W124. The
extinguisher  buckets are the same for most all models, despite the
124- or 129- part number prefixes. The difference is just the metal
bracket that bolts to the seat. You need different brackets for 123,
126, 140, etc seat frames.

:-)

-Dave M.


 --
 Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 01:20:45 -0500
 From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 fire extinguisher part info


 On Feb 22, 2006, at 9:35 PM, Dave M. wrote:

 
  http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_fire_ext/
 
  The 1.0kg extinguisher is something like $100-$125 new (I got mine
  used), the bracket, bucket, and assorted hardware adds up to about
  another $50 or so. The early buckets with carpet for the older 1.3kg
  units are a LOT more expensive. Lucky for me, the previous owner of my
  E500 had purchased a used 1.3kg setup, which is also shown in the
  aforementioned photos.
 


 Dave,
In photo ext_1.0kg3.jpg , I see some particles in the rubber floor
mat. It appears to be dirt or sand. Are you feeling OK?



[MBZ] Tulsa Opera

2006-02-23 Thread Luther Gulseth
Would anyone like to attend the opera in Tulsa on Saturday evening?  I will not 
be able to attend and have 2 tickets.


-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) alive and needing work 
'90 300E (parts or run?)



Re: [MBZ] Housing costs

2006-02-23 Thread R A Bennell
These people need to get a life. My commute is about 5 minutes on a good
day. I usually go home for lunch several times each week. If the hospital
accross the street wasn't so tall, I could probably see my house from the
window in the front of our building. If I could go overland straight through
it wouldn't even take the 5 minutes.

My wife works at our University of Manitoba and her commute is about the
same as mine. We are within 4 or 5 houses of the edge of the University
property but
she works at the other end of it.

If I wasn't lazy (and if I didn't like vehicles as much as I do) I could
easily walk to work I suppose.

One down side is that my vehicles don't get warmed up well on the short trip
to work. With the diesel, I usually take a longer way around so that I don't
have to shut if off before it comes up to temperature. That does not take
long as I don't drive it in the winter. I don't worry quite as much about
the gas engines.

Randy B

-Original Message-


Brother in law bought his house 6 years ago in suburb of Boston for 275K.
It is with in the known 100 mile each way  commuting radius (one way) of the
city , three bedroom ranch on an acre, 1970s neighborhood.

Selling it for over 600K.  40 years ago Boston's housing dollar was about
equal with Syracuse NY.  What happened?

New York's commuting radius that people drive is up to 150 miles one way.
Two and a half hours each way at 2:00AM with no traffic.  With
traffic/bridge waits 3 to 5 hours each way.  What will it be in 20 years?
You  have 100 million or so people with in a 1000 mile radius of NYC all
looking for he same thing.  300 million people in the US and growing!

Regards Tom Scordato






































Re: [MBZ] Not getting messages

2006-02-23 Thread Curt Raymond
It just occured to me I've only been into Mercedes cars for about 4 years and 
I've gone maybe 60,000 miles. At the 40 year point I'll still have alot of 
catching up to do to get to Marshall but I'll be on par with Pindelski.
   
  I used to look at Pindelski's site. His pics are good IIRC he was a pro 
photographer at some point. His descriptions are decent although not super 
detailed. His opinions, well lets just say he's convinced he's right about 
stuff and if you disagree you're branded an idiot.
  Fer instance he hates synthetic oil. Can't understand why anybody would be 
interested in synthetic oils and is in general pretty insulting about anybody 
who would use synthetic oils. I definately get the feeling he doesn't put all 
that many miles on his car or has alot of extra time on his hands. I personally 
hate taking the time to change the oil...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 23:37:27 -0500
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Not getting messages
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Mitch Haley wrote:

 
 http://www.pindelski.com/
 
 The author is a graduate mechanical engineer and has been working on 
Mercedes cars for
 nearly 20 years. The author's lifetime mileage in Mercedes cars 
exceeds 250,000 miles.

I've been working on 'em for more than 40 years, have more than 
1,000,000 miles driving 'em and I'm FREE!

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 
2.5 
turbo 237kmi



-
 Yahoo! Mail
 Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
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On Feb 23, 2006, at 11:05 AM, Dave M. wrote:

 Actually, Johnny, I *have* been a little under the weather the past
 week. Thanks for the concern, though! I'll scrub the floor mats and
 re-shoot the photo when I have a chance. ;-)


 You always keep your cars so clean. You know I couldn't resist that  
one. I try to keep a clean car, not that easy when I'm busy driving  
them as much as I do.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine work)

2006-02-23 Thread Rich Thomas
Kaleb, the spokesman for political correctness -- next gig is a show on 
Air America!


--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


WOW, that could be a decent deal, need to jew them down a bit though.

Kevin wrote:

 


from: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/134993520.html

black on black 92 350SD (w140) with 3.5L turbodiesel. Needs engine
work, clean title. $3850. 

Car is in Sacramento. See link for contact info. Looks like a good 
candidate for someone who wants one of these, and wants to buy a dead

one so that they can put in the reman engine and have some piece of mind
about it.

K

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Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine work)

2006-02-23 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

AIR AMERICA  I THINK NOT!  Maybe LT Don.

Rich Thomas wrote:

Kaleb, the spokesman for political correctness -- next gig is a show on 
Air America!


--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:



WOW, that could be a decent deal, need to jew them down a bit though.

Kevin wrote:





from: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/134993520.html

black on black 92 350SD (w140) with 3.5L turbodiesel. Needs engine
work, clean title. $3850. 

Car is in Sacramento. See link for contact info. Looks like a good 
candidate for someone who wants one of these, and wants to buy a dead

one so that they can put in the reman engine and have some piece of mind
about it.

K

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] Kevin? you need this: W115 W114

2006-02-23 Thread redghost



 Hello,


catfish has just posted in the W115  W114 forum of Mercedes-Benz Club 
of America Forums under the title of '72 220D parts car near portland, 
or.


This thread is located at 
http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?threadid=11360


Here is the message that has just been posted:
***
i got a kick out of this add for a 220D.  i bet he'll let you take it 
for free if you haul it out of there.


  http://portland.craigslist.org/car/135090991.html
***





--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror Owners Manual for my 91 300D

2006-02-23 Thread l02turner

Thanks!
;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Aaron Lam [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror  Owners Manual for my 91 300D



Somewhat similar.

1. Pop off the plastic trim ring that surrounds the shifter
2. Open sliding wood console box, remove two screws at front, and remove
box.
3. If you don't have the box, peel back the carpet to reveal the single
screw on a plastic tab
4. Lift wood upward carefully, starting at the rear.

On 2/23/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Thanks again for the warning Aaron - next question - does the panel lift
up
similar to the W123 cars? i.e., remove a couple of screws from below the
ashtray and lift up to expose the underside of the switch?

Got the replacement from Rusty and I'd like to install it later today --



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD hatch door

2006-02-23 Thread andrew strasfogel
You're Superman in my book if you have 30 yrs. as a professional mechanic.

On 2/22/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Wednesday, February 22, 2006, at 06:27 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

  No way this is a 30 minute job, even with 2 people.
 

I'm not Superman or anything but I have more than 30 years behind
 me
 as a professional mechanic. Take as long as you want, its your time.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am
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Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-23 Thread andrew strasfogel
Jerky transmission could be any number of vacuum or transmission related
issues that requires a GOOD and EXPERIENCED Mercedes diesel mechanic to sort
out.  The rear windows symptoms ARE a problem and a major PIA to fix, though
not beyond the ability of most DIYers.

That being said, if the vehicle is clean, has service records, and is a nice
color combo that appeals to you, try and negotiate a realistic price and
take it in for a prepurchase inspection.  Use the results to bargain down
further on the price.



On 2/22/06, Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I actually drove the thing today. Shifts real hard and with a jerk. I
 would
 envy that type of shift in my musclecar, but with this auto, it seems to
 indicate a problem? Or something not as it should be? I told him to check
 the fluid, and it was below the second mark. It took a couple seconds to
 drop into gear (both D and R) and this is what made me tell him to check
 the
 level.

 The rear windows act funny, sort of hesitating, and then catching up. He
 says it's no problem.

 By the way, it's an '82 I believe and he is asking $6500. I know - too
 much.

 Anyway, I don't think it's worth the risk to us. The wife expressed
 interest
 in it.


 Brian
 83 240D

 _
 On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
 get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement


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Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine work)

2006-02-23 Thread R A Bennell
Wow, talk about sensitive. Let me suggest this sort of thing be saved for
BANNED where it might go somewhat un-noticed given all of the other stuff.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 7:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine
work)


WOW, that could be a decent deal, need to jew them down a bit though.





Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-23 Thread R A Bennell
See, there are polite ways to say the same sort of thing.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 12:25 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale



That being said, if the vehicle is clean, has service records, and is a nice
color combo that appeals to you, try and negotiate a realistic price and
take it in for a prepurchase inspection.  Use the results to bargain down
further on the price.







Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-23 Thread Ed Booher
It's spotted? Like an owl?

On 2/22/06, Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I actually drove the thing today. Shifts real hard and with a jerk. I would
 envy that type of shift in my musclecar, but with this auto, it seems to
 indicate a problem? Or something not as it should be? I told him to check
 the fluid, and it was below the second mark. It took a couple seconds to
 drop into gear (both D and R) and this is what made me tell him to check the
 level.

--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.



Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb

2006-02-23 Thread andrew strasfogel
WTF:  We redid the fuel pump, rebuilt cylinder head, and had the engine
vatted

Vatted?


On 2/23/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 They will be white sun visors Im sure.

 Craig McCluskey wrote:

  On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 18:27:25 -0600 Kaleb C. Striplin
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
 yea I know about that one
 
 Rick Knoble wrote:
 
 
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orange-1977-Mercedes-Benz-300D_W0QQitemZ4614098881QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
 
 
  And you won it, too. Are you going to part it out? Any chance for some
  dark blue or black sun visors?
 
 
 
  Craig
 
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] Ph.D.s per capita [was Re: Housing costs]

2006-02-23 Thread andrew strasfogel
Lost track of WHERE all this discussion applies .

On 2/23/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It was true at sometime, probably 1980 census data.  I don't know or care
 if it is still true.  If you want to do the research on the current title,
 go ahead.

 At 11:18 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:
 On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 11:34:59 -0600 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
   It has the most PhDs per capita in the US, if not the UNIVERSE!
 
 
 Compared to Los Alamos? I REALLY doubt that.
 
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] Tulsa Opera

2006-02-23 Thread andrew strasfogel
What's playing?  Who's singing?

On 2/23/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Would anyone like to attend the opera in Tulsa on Saturday evening?  I
 will not be able to attend and have 2 tickets.


 --
 Luther KB5QHU
 Alma, Ark
 '83 300SD (230,xxx kmi)
 '82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
 '82 300D (74,000 kmi) alive and needing work
 '90 300E (parts or run?)

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Re: [MBZ] Kevin? you need this: W115 W114

2006-02-23 Thread kevin kraly
I did spot this one on CL when it was posted on Saturday.  I'm planning to 
wait it out until the guy realizes that $300 is WY too much for that 
car.  There wouldn't be a part of that car other than the engine that isn't 
either waterlogged, pitted  or rusted to pieces by now with all of the glass 
being broken out of it.  I would like to haul it out of there once he 
reaches the desperation stage and offers it for free.  Maybe, I oughta just 
offer to haul it away and see if he bites. 





Re: [MBZ] Housing costs

2006-02-23 Thread andrew strasfogel
Randy, is that St. Boniface Hospital by any chance?

On 2/23/06, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 These people need to get a life. My commute is about 5 minutes on a good
 day. I usually go home for lunch several times each week. If the hospital
 accross the street wasn't so tall, I could probably see my house from the
 window in the front of our building. If I could go overland straight
 through
 it wouldn't even take the 5 minutes.

 My wife works at our University of Manitoba and her commute is about the
 same as mine. We are within 4 or 5 houses of the edge of the University
 property but
 she works at the other end of it.

 If I wasn't lazy (and if I didn't like vehicles as much as I do) I could
 easily walk to work I suppose.

 One down side is that my vehicles don't get warmed up well on the short
 trip
 to work. With the diesel, I usually take a longer way around so that I
 don't
 have to shut if off before it comes up to temperature. That does not take
 long as I don't drive it in the winter. I don't worry quite as much about
 the gas engines.

 Randy B

 -Original Message-


 Brother in law bought his house 6 years ago in suburb of Boston for 275K.
 It is with in the known 100 mile each way  commuting radius (one way) of
 the
 city , three bedroom ranch on an acre, 1970s neighborhood.

 Selling it for over 600K.  40 years ago Boston's housing dollar was about
 equal with Syracuse NY.  What happened?

 New York's commuting radius that people drive is up to 150 miles one way.
 Two and a half hours each way at 2:00AM with no traffic.  With
 traffic/bridge waits 3 to 5 hours each way.  What will it be in 20 years?
 You  have 100 million or so people with in a 1000 mile radius of NYC all
 looking for he same thing.  300 million people in the US and growing!

 Regards Tom Scordato




































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Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb

2006-02-23 Thread Terry Geiger

Andrew,

I don't know if vatted is a word or not but it means the engine block was 
dipped in a vat of strong cleaners that should clean all ports, passages, 
etc. including oil galleries and water jackets.


Terry Geiger
http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org
'74 Triumph TR6 * '63 Triumph Herald * '84 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel

- Original Message - 
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb



WTF:  We redid the fuel pump, rebuilt cylinder head, and had the engine
vatted

Vatted?








Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD hatch door

2006-02-23 Thread John Berryman


On Feb 23, 2006, at 3:21 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

You're Superman in my book if you have 30 yrs. as a professional  
mechanic.



Aw gee! (blushing)

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



[MBZ] VeeDub In Da House

2006-02-23 Thread Dave M.
These are a riot. Too bad they're in Flash format so I can't download
 save them.


http://www.leftlanenews.com/2006/02/22/vw-strikes-again-un-pimp-my-ride-videos/

http://www.leftlanenews.com/2006/02/17/videos-volkswagens-bizarre-gti-fast-commercials/

http://image.guardian.co.uk/sys-video/Media/video/2005/01/27/golfgti.mov


=)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)



Re: [MBZ] Housing costs

2006-02-23 Thread R A Bennell
No, Victoria General Hospital.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 12:41 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Housing costs


Randy, is that St. Boniface Hospital by any chance?

On 2/23/06, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 These people need to get a life. My commute is about 5 minutes on a good
 day. I usually go home for lunch several times each week. If the hospital
 accross the street wasn't so tall, I could probably see my house from the
 window in the front of our building. If I could go overland straight
 through
 it wouldn't even take the 5 minutes.

 My wife works at our University of Manitoba and her commute is about the
 same as mine. We are within 4 or 5 houses of the edge of the University
 property but
 she works at the other end of it.

 If I wasn't lazy (and if I didn't like vehicles as much as I do) I could
 easily walk to work I suppose.

 One down side is that my vehicles don't get warmed up well on the short
 trip
 to work. With the diesel, I usually take a longer way around so that I
 don't
 have to shut if off before it comes up to temperature. That does not take
 long as I don't drive it in the winter. I don't worry quite as much about
 the gas engines.

 Randy B

 -Original Message-


 Brother in law bought his house 6 years ago in suburb of Boston for 275K.
 It is with in the known 100 mile each way  commuting radius (one way) of
 the
 city , three bedroom ranch on an acre, 1970s neighborhood.

 Selling it for over 600K.  40 years ago Boston's housing dollar was about
 equal with Syracuse NY.  What happened?

 New York's commuting radius that people drive is up to 150 miles one way.
 Two and a half hours each way at 2:00AM with no traffic.  With
 traffic/bridge waits 3 to 5 hours each way.  What will it be in 20 years?
 You  have 100 million or so people with in a 1000 mile radius of NYC all
 looking for he same thing.  300 million people in the US and growing!

 Regards Tom Scordato





Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine work)

2006-02-23 Thread Kevin
Actually, I'm somewhat surprised it didn't at least raise ONE of spud's
eyebrows. he has family in the sac area, and has said before the only 
way he'd get into a 140 is if he found a well cared for one that the 
rods bent on it.

K

On Thu, Feb 23, 2006 at 09:46:52AM -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 WOW, that could be a decent deal, need to *** them down a bit though.
 
 Kevin wrote:
 
  from: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/134993520.html
  
  black on black 92 350SD (w140) with 3.5L turbodiesel. Needs engine
  work, clean title. $3850. 
  
  Car is in Sacramento. See link for contact info. Looks like a good 
  candidate for someone who wants one of these, and wants to buy a dead
  one so that they can put in the reman engine and have some piece of mind
  about it.



Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid?

2006-02-23 Thread Dave M.
Yeah, I got an eyebrow and a half up on this one. If I was
semi-seriously in the market for a 140, I'd definitely look into it
harder. I wonder what engine work it needs (although I'd assume a
short block is in order.) Bummer there's not more photos.

=)

+dm

 --
 Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 13:18:04 -0800
 From: Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] anybody feel stupid? (W140 diesel f/s needs engine
work)


 Actually, I'm somewhat surprised it didn't at least raise ONE of spud's
 eyebrows. he has family in the sac area, and has said before the only
 way he'd get into a 140 is if he found a well cared for one that the
 rods bent on it.

 K


  Kevin wrote:
 
   from: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/134993520.html
  
   black on black 92 350SD (w140) with 3.5L turbodiesel. Needs engine
   work, clean title. $3850.
  
   Car is in Sacramento. See link for contact info. Looks like a good
   candidate for someone who wants one of these, and wants to buy a dead
   one so that they can put in the reman engine and have some piece of mind
   about it.




[MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level

2006-02-23 Thread l02turner

Hello all -
Well, I changed my oil - used the topsider to suck it all out and also 
changed the fuel prefilter.  It runs better already - but that's probably my 
imagination since I'm a big fan of the Mobil 1 I put in. ;-)


Now, my question - did I read that it;s best to keep the oil level at 
between the upper  lower marks instead of at the top mark?  Now, I have 
mine about 3/4 of the way up, between the upper and lower marks.


Sound OK -

Next, I know how to tell the difference between Tex and Leather if I can 
look under the material - so far I haven't found a place where I can look - 
is there any other way to tell the difference?

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 






Re: [MBZ] Brake Fluid Flush

2006-02-23 Thread l02turner

Thanks Werner -
I'll take your suggestion and practice on only one wheel -
;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake Fluid Flush



Larry - its ABS - and the main thing to remember when flushing the brake
fluid is to use enough pressure, probably around 20 psi.  I was too
conservative at one of the GWS tech sessions several years ago, and 
managed
to drain the lines and leave lots of air in them.  Learned that ABS 
systems
need to use more pressure!  The M-B mechanic did a quick fix with me on 
the

pedal, but that procedure is not recommended, especially with older master
cylinders.
I'd recommend taking your time and doing one wheel first to get the
technique down correctly.
Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Brake Fluid Flush



Howdy -
One of these days I plan to flush the brake fluid.  Is there anything I
need
to know or do differently since the 300D has ASB - is that the right
initials? - anti-lock braking -   anyway - I will be using a pressure
system
to bleed it -

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, '91 300D Turbo 2.5)



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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-23 Thread David Johnson
--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The quantity of ATF for a 722.4 transmission if you
 drain the converter 
 is 6 liters (6.35 qt).
Not having access to trustworthy jack stands and
having never seen an engine turned manually, I'm
trying to talk myself into changing the ATF without
draining the converter.  Would that be a bad thing?  
David
83 300DT

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-23 Thread John Berryman


On Feb 23, 2006, at 4:54 PM, David Johnson wrote:


Not having access to trustworthy jack stands and
having never seen an engine turned manually, I'm
trying to talk myself into changing the ATF without
draining the converter.  Would that be a bad thing?
David
83 300DT



	Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral  
bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a  
simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without  
screwing anything up.
	I would avoid tranny shops and trans fluid flushes like the plague.  
Local gas station/service station is probably a good choice too.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Tulsa Opera

2006-02-23 Thread Christopher McCann
What's the opera? (crossing fingers that it's Die Fledermaus or anything Wagner)
  
  Chris

Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Would anyone like to attend the 
opera in Tulsa on Saturday evening?  I will not be able to attend and have 2 
tickets.


-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) alive and needing work 
'90 300E (parts or run?)

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I would keep an eye on them while they did it.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions


... some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without =20
screwing anything up.
I would avoid tranny shops and trans fluid flushes like the
plague. =20
Local gas station/service station is probably a good choice too.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb

2006-02-23 Thread Terry Geiger

Yes,

I've heard the term hot tanked used to describe the same process. 
Vatted may be a term confined to the southern states.


Terry Geiger
http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org
'74 Triumph TR6 * '63 Triumph Herald * '84 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel

- Original Message - 
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb



In North America, we would ususally say hot tanked.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Terry Geiger
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 12:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb


Andrew,

I don't know if vatted is a word or not but it means the engine block 
was

dipped in a vat of strong cleaners that should clean all ports, passages,
etc. including oil galleries and water jackets.

Terry Geiger
http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org
'74 Triumph TR6 * '63 Triumph Herald * '84 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel

- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb



WTF:  We redid the fuel pump, rebuilt cylinder head, and had the engine
vatted

Vatted?








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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-23 Thread David Brodbeck

John Berryman wrote:
	Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral  
bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a  
simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without  
screwing anything up.
  


Good luck. Everyone seems to be afraid of these cars. It seems like when 
I called around to anywhere but a Mercedes specialist asking about a 
transmission service or even a V-belt change, they said we don't do 
that on those cars.




Re: [MBZ] Help - What did I do?

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

John Berryman wrote:
	Its not necessary to cool the turbo down under normal circumstances. 
EGTs are not that high unless your pump/turbo were seriously tweaked. I 
live at the top of a steep 1 mile pull. I keep the hammer down all the 
way up in 3rd gear then shut it down as soon as its in park. 100s of 
1,000s of miles on turbodiesels and never had a problem.
	Ma Benz wouldn't expect people to sit around waiting for their turbos 
to cool down on these Battle Taxis anyway. Burnt oil can coke on turbo 
bushings causing a seizure but that requires much more heat than can be 
generated by these engines under normal circumstances. Of course 
synthetic oil will stand up to more heat than conventional oils. A 935 
it will never be.


What Johnny B. said! Just a few moments at less than full power will 
more than sufficiently cool a Mercedes diesel turbo providing you 
haven't altered factory settings by very much! Using a group IV/V 
synthetic oil (Mobil 1 or similar) improves things even further. 
Mercedes has designed the system so you can't destroy it unless you 
REALLY work at it.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb

2006-02-23 Thread MICHAEL ESH
I am parting out the 1981 300SEL 126 Chassis with dark blue interior. 
Engine is fried and doors have rust. Any body need inside or outside parts?

Mike in Michigan


Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jump on this one quick Kaleb



They will be white sun visors Im sure.

Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 18:27:25 -0600 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



yea I know about that one

Rick Knoble wrote:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orange-1977-Mercedes-Benz-300D_W0QQitemZ4614098881QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem




And you won it, too. Are you going to part it out? Any chance for some
dark blue or black sun visors?



Craig

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 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] main fuel filter question

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

OK Don wrote:

Is this a case where cracking the lines at the injectors would let the
fuel flow faster - prime faster, therefore start faster?


Won't make a difference. If you loosened all of the glow plugs so the 
engine cranked REALLY fast, that would speed up the priming, but that's 
NOT really practical. Just run the engine to be sure the injection pump 
reservoir is full, then shut down pull the old filter and FILL the new 
filter. Then the engine will usually start quite quickly and while it 
may stumble a bit, it usually won't shut down if you hold the pedal down 
a bit.


Marshall
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'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] main fuel filter question

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Mitch Haley wrote:

John Berryman wrote:

Might take more cranking but it will eventually start. It is best to
load the filter though.


That's the funny thing. When I did it with the SD, it fired immediately,
then soon stumbled. I gave it throttle, and kept the revs up until
the stumbling quit. It all took 30 seconds or less, not counting glow
time.


You started the engine on the fuel in the injection pump reservoir. The 
pump is pulling fuel into the empty main filter. That will result in 
engine stalling or at least rough running (if you hold the accelerator 
down). The duration of that running rough can be reduced by filling the 
new filter with clean diesel or Diesel Purge (or even ATF). OM61x 
engines are more troublesome than OM60x engines (unless you use the hand 
pump on the OM61x engine).


Marshall
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  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level

2006-02-23 Thread Jim Cathey
Next, I know how to tell the difference between Tex and Leather if I 
can
look under the material - so far I haven't found a place where I can 
look -

is there any other way to tell the difference?


Stab a lit cigarette into it and see if it smells like burnt
hair, or like burnt plastic.  You're welcome!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level

2006-02-23 Thread Jim Cathey

Stab a lit cigarette into it and see if it smells like burnt
hair, or like burnt plastic.  You're welcome!


And for whatever reason, the PO of our 190D felt compelled
to repeat this test several times.  Must have had a bad
memory.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level

2006-02-23 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Guess Marshall WILL answer the oil level question, me I try to keep it 
somewhere in the range.
Far as tex and cow hide goes, I should think you could give it a sniff test? 
Also I have found that tex has a factory (perfect look) whereas leather has 
a more natural look about it.


Hendrik
sticks and stones may break my bones but leather, whips and chains excite me

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 8:08 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level



Now, my question - did I read that it;s best to keep the oil level at
between the upper  lower marks instead of at the top mark?  Now, I have
mine about 3/4 of the way up, between the upper and lower marks.

Sound OK -

Next, I know how to tell the difference between Tex and Leather if I can
look under the material - so far I haven't found a place where I can 
look -

is there any other way to tell the difference?
TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)




Re: [MBZ] Oil CHange

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Donald Snook wrote:

Peter wrote:  Most parts stores that carry Wix filters will have the
oil filter (and 

Wix is very good).  Probably 8 quarts if the 603 engine is a guide, at 


least 6 anyway.


I suggest that no more than 7 qt be installed in a 602.96 engine. That 
will result in the level being about half way between the ADD and MAX 
marks (when the oil FINALLY reaches the sump - which may take 6-8 
hours). That's what I fill into my 602.96 (I use about 7.5 qt in my 
603.96 engine).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Oil CHange

2006-02-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Sunil Hari wrote:

but do you have to change the filter before 10Kmi?


Why would you do that (unless you are driving in subzero weather or in a 
VERY dusty environment)?


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level

2006-02-23 Thread Werner Fehlauer

Larry -
Yes, the proper level for the oil is below the max mark, probably about 1/2 
to 3/4 way between the top and bottom marks.  Take Marshall's advice, 
though, and look at the level after the car engine has been off for several 
hours - the Mobil1 does stick to internal engine parts, and does take some 
time to flow to the sump!


As for tex vs. leather, a clue is found in the code for the interior - 
usually, a 1xx number is MB-tex, and a 2xx number is leather.  You can check 
out all the codes in the build sheet (available from MBUSA or the dealer, if 
it isn't with the car documents), and also should be on the metal plate in 
front of the radiator (at least the exterior color is embossed there).  The 
codes were listed sometime back by Dan Landiss, and I think I can find the 
link if you don't have it.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Leather Vs MB-Tex and Proper Oil Level



Hello all -
Well, I changed my oil - used the topsider to suck it all out and also
changed the fuel prefilter.  It runs better already - but that's probably 
my

imagination since I'm a big fan of the Mobil 1 I put in. ;-)

Now, my question - did I read that it;s best to keep the oil level at
between the upper  lower marks instead of at the top mark?  Now, I have
mine about 3/4 of the way up, between the upper and lower marks.

Sound OK -

Next, I know how to tell the difference between Tex and Leather if I can
look under the material - so far I haven't found a place where I can 
look -

is there any other way to tell the difference?
TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)





Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-23 Thread R A Bennell
I have yet to do the MB but it is not normally a difficult job to do. I have
done this sort of thing on lots of other vehicles. Not a whole lot harder
than changing the oil in the engine. Messy in most cases but that is normal
when one crawls around under a vehicle. Be prepared to spill some and if you
need to keep the drive or floor or whatever you are parked on clean, the
take some precautions with cardboard or the like to prevent a major cleanup
afterwards.
If you have a place to work then get yourself a set of good quality ramps
and have at it. It is not brain surgery. One loosens bolts and removes them
and then later re-installs them with some new gaskets etc and then
re-tightens them. If one is afraid that one does not have the touch, then
one uses a torque wrench etc. The worst thing that can go wrong is that one
buggers something up and has to buy a new part etc. It is a learning
experience and gets easier with time.

For an example, I offer the following. When I first got my 1986 Chevy
Suburban (back in 1991) I was intimidated by it. I had not owned anything
with a V8 engine since a 1968 Cougar that I traded away in 1973. Most of my
vehicles in between were either new and didn't need anything much or were
older and very simple like my 1968 Chevy pickup with a 292 inline 6. None of
them had as much plumbing as that thing had under the hood. I changed a fuel
filter in the carb and was literally afraid I would not get it back together
again. Within a few months I was much mor comfortable with it. I changed the
valve seals and so I had the valve covers off and all of the junk in the way
had to be moved or removed. I later wondered why I had been so intimidated
by it at the outset.

I'm sort of in the same boat with the MB. I bought it in July 2005 and drove
it a bit but really didn't do much apart from change the oil twice. This
spring I am going to get into it and check the compression, check for chain
stretch etc. I have had it long enough to feel more comfortable with it and
have read the posts on this forum and a couple of others long enough to be
satisfied that there shouldn't be anything too unusual about it. My car is
simple compared to most of the ones that you folks talk about. I don't have
to worry about the self levelling suspension or the turbo etc.  The worst
thing I have to decide is whether to tackle the front seats or hire someone
else to do it.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Brodbeck
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 2:44 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions


John Berryman wrote:
   Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral
 bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a
 simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without
 screwing anything up.


Good luck. Everyone seems to be afraid of these cars. It seems like when
I called around to anywhere but a Mercedes specialist asking about a
transmission service or even a V-belt change, they said we don't do
that on those cars.

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-23 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Yes it would be a bad thing. What about your filter? It is a dirty job but 
very important. Go to a Benz specialist and get it done properly, I would 
not trust some idiot to do this; or get the equipment and learn to do it. It 
is not a hard job, just one where cleanliness (and some experience) is very 
important. The problem with letting some teenager to do this is that if not 
torqued up right you will have fluid leakage. It is usally advisable to put 
a new gasket in while you are changing the fluid/filter.


Hendrik
with near fresh fluid and filter in the box and no drips due to new gasket 
and proper (well very close to) installation


- Original Message - 
From: David Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The quantity of ATF for a 722.4 transmission if you
drain the converter
is 6 liters (6.35 qt).

Not having access to trustworthy jack stands and
having never seen an engine turned manually, I'm
trying to talk myself into changing the ATF without
draining the converter.  Would that be a bad thing?
David
83 300DT

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