Re: [MBZ] i spent the evening in the chattahoochee

2008-05-27 Thread Kevin Kraly
i feel sick and glow a little in the dark

Our Willamette River here in Oregon is much the same only COLDER!  People 
water-ski and swim in it all the time which is surprising to me!  It smells 
terrible, and even the sighted paddlers on our dragon boat team can't see 
the paddle blades once they are submerged!

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 7:12 PM, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> close all the way when current is applied, and open when not, or vice
>> versa.  No "partially open" state is implemented or needed---it's
>> controlled not by a variable voltage but by PWM from the climate
>> control brain.
>
> While the control voltage is certainly PWM, there is some question
> as to the physical response time of the valve.  It may well be
> that the valve's position ends up proportional and not 'bang-bang'.
>

Good point Jim, I stand corrected.  But that would have no impact on
the test procedure, am I right?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Slipping trannies and the magic cure (might just be the modulator)

2008-05-27 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 5/27/2008 8:48:45 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

1 Try  driving without the vacuum line attached and see if it still  slips


All good suggestions but the symptom of a bad modulator (not necessarily a  
leaking modulator) is a slipping 2-3 shift and no matter what else I did, I  
would replace the modulator if it is original or several years old.  I  think 
the diaphragm gets stiff and freezes the modulator in a bleed  position.
 
My 79 slipped the 2-3 shift for about 5 years and I thought the trans was  on 
it's death bed, until I put a new modulator in.  Now, 10 years  later, it is 
shifting good as new with 264,000 miles on it (knock wood!)!
 
Mobil 1 ATF has been in this trans for the last 100,000 miles, and that  
don't hurt either! 
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 155 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] Slipping trannies and the magic cure

2008-05-27 Thread Hendrik & Fay
According to the elves:
1 Try driving without the vacuum line attached and see if it still slips
2 check modulating pressure 27-020
And now for the tricky stuff if none of the above work
3 make sure you have a temperature throttle valve or some such thing in 
the valve housing 430/1 item 117 (or 119)
4 exchange shift valve housing (if you got a spare lying around) 27-121
5 check teflon ring on front cover
6 renew inside plates K1 (basically K1 is shot) 27-370

Well there you go, you may have a vaccy problem

Hendrik
who is very confused

Dan Weeks wrote:
> I originally thought it was a worn clutch, too, until Gary and Loren  
> mentioned vacuum. The other shifts are very firm, and the 3-4 happens  
> too early from my point of view, and downshifts are very harsh. Seems  
> like someone has overtightened the modulator to compensate for the  
> slipping 2-3 shift (starts in second).
>
> It's an 88 300TE. I'd love the manual's perspective.
>
> Thanks, Hendrik!
>
> Dan
>
>
>   
>

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[MBZ] i spent the evening in the chattahoochee

2008-05-27 Thread Gary Hurst
i feel sick and glow a little in the dark

never knew how much that dirty water done to me
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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-05-27 Thread Jim Cathey
> None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to 
> press it out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the 
> same as the W124, you need to check).  Any bit of pipe that will seat 
> in the tool and fit inside the hole in the control arm will work, as 
> you don't care about the joint you are pressing out.  It's tight, make 
> sure you have the car supported well!.  Going back in the sleeves and 
> cups that come with the tool work.

The ball joint kit was on sale again at HF, so I bought it.
When I get a chance to try it, we'll see.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL solution found

2008-05-27 Thread Jim Cathey
> Bottom line:  If your gasser is showing ign problems, you may need a
> new battery.

Always worth testing the battery voltage (in a couple of places)
_while_ you crank.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Jim Cathey
> close all the way when current is applied, and open when not, or vice
> versa.  No "partially open" state is implemented or needed---it's
> controlled not by a variable voltage but by PWM from the climate
> control brain.

While the control voltage is certainly PWM, there is some question
as to the physical response time of the valve.  It may well be
that the valve's position ends up proportional and not 'bang-bang'.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Slipping trannies and the magic cure

2008-05-27 Thread Dan Weeks
I originally thought it was a worn clutch, too, until Gary and Loren  
mentioned vacuum. The other shifts are very firm, and the 3-4 happens  
too early from my point of view, and downshifts are very harsh. Seems  
like someone has overtightened the modulator to compensate for the  
slipping 2-3 shift (starts in second).

It's an 88 300TE. I'd love the manual's perspective.

Thanks, Hendrik!

Dan


On May 27, 2008, at 8:32 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Sorry to burst your bubble but more than likely if an auto box  
> slips in
> just one shift it is not a vacuum issue, as the vacuum modulator  
> affects
> all shifts. If you adjust the modulator to tighten up the shift you  
> may
> well find that the other shifts will be harsh.
> More probable is a problem in the valve block or a worn clutch.
> If someone could refresh my memory as to what car and what the problem
> is I can have a bit of a look at the manual.
>
> Hendrik
> with a slipping memory

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Re: [MBZ] slipping trannies and the magic cure

2008-05-27 Thread Trampas
Early 1990s W126 had bad clutches installed from factory, causing wear
around 100k and slipping. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Hendrik & Fay
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:22 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] slipping trannies and the magic cure

Sorry to burst your bubble but more than likely if an auto box slips in 
just one shift it is not a vacuum issue, as the vacuum modulator affects 
all shifts. If you adjust the modulator to tighten up the shift you may 
well find that the other shifts will be harsh.
More probable is a problem in the valve block or a worn clutch.
If someone could refresh my memory as to what car and what the problem 
is I can have a bit of a look at the manual.

Hendrik
with a slipping memory

Loren Faeth wrote:
> Check for vacuum leaks.  I had no flaring with it.  I am surprised 
> that it has started, so I am inclined to look for vacuum hoses that 
> are bad or bumped off/loose
>
> I believe you can fix the odometer by gluing the slipping gear to the 
> shaft with epoxy.  I have done that with other mBs, just never got to 
> doing it on that car.  Rough uo the shaft next to the gear with a 
> file.  Rough up the edge of the gear next to the rough sopt on the 
> shaft, wrap a drop of epoxy around the roughed up area.  Let it sit 
> for at least 24 hours, then drive away.  I did that on my 200D back 
> in 1970-something and it is still holding.  Caveat:  I have never 
> done this on a 124.  Just 110/111 and 123.
>
>   
>

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL solution found

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
send money

Loren Faeth wrote:
> For those who have been following the several month saga of the 380SL 
> with an intermittent "No start when hot" problem.  Several solutions 
> were suggested, including changing the Fuel pump relay and the fuel 
> pump.  I changed both with no positive results.  Okie Don provided me 
> kindly with a PDF of the wiring diagram.  I was starting to chase 
> that yesterday.
> 
> All through the winter, the car was stored, and it started ok in 
> spring after sitting.  One day after it came out of winter storage, 
> my daughter went to start it and it would not start at all.  Crank 
> but no fuel pump sounds, and no start.  This started the Fuel pump 
> rabbit trail.  In the process of chasing the FP rabbit, the battery 
> went weak.  Yesterday, it would not crank or even take a charge, so I 
> ran across town and bought a new battery.  I had planned to get the 
> problem solved, then buy a new battery.  When the new battery was 
> installed, I decided to put in the "new" (Used from K'leb) relay in 
> and crank it.  It started right up!!!  So I tried it with the old 
> relay, that I tried to resolder ala Cathey.  It started right up!
> 
> So, it appears the whole thing was caused by a failing battery, even 
> though the battery didn't seem to be bad, and it tested 13 volts when 
> I was testing it.  I don't understand what happened, but I guess the 
> idiosyncracies of "modern" auto electronics are beyond my 
> understanding.  I really liked the old BMW /2 motorcycles and IH "H" 
> "A" "B" and "C" tractors with the Magneto.  No battery needed.  Nice, 
> but not necessary.
> 
> Now I should check the alternator carefully, to be sure it has not 
> contributed to the problem.
> 
> Bottom line:  If your gasser is showing ign problems, you may need a 
> new battery.
> 
> Old Dieselheads learn new things.slowly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loren Faeth 
> 
> 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
The head is unique to the wagon, have to use a wagon engine or swap the 
wagon head on.

Mitch Haley wrote:
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>> Kaleb,
>> I may have found a used '84 project car with a good  engine.  Will that
>> engine fit in my 83 without any modifications?
> 
> If it's coming out of a coupe or sedan it will need a wagon cylinder head.
> If it's coming out of a 300SD lots of parts will need swapping over. 
> I *think* you can use the sedan camshaft with the SLS pump, but I
> won't guarantee it, Kaleb might know for sure.
> 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 124 Shock Conversion [was: Re: 103 Head issue]

2008-05-27 Thread Mitch Haley
I called him a couple of months ago when that 190dt near me was on eBay,
me he didn't want to talk much. 

Mitch.

"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> 
> Where is Ron these days?  I think he has dropped off the planet
> 
> Mitch Haley wrote:
> > Craig McCluskey wrote:
> >> I see. It applies only to wagons, then?
> >
> > Wagons, euro cars with towing package, and some S-class cars had SLS.
> > Somebody on this list has/had a euro 240D with towing package / self
> > leveling suspension, and I think Ron Dwelle had a 190D euro with that
> > setup. I should make sure Ron knows I want that car if it ever gets
> > wrecked, I don't think he's in a hurry to part with it otherwise.
> >
> > Mitch.
> >
> > ___
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> >
> 
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
>   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Im off

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
land of cheese and porn

OK Don wrote:
> Alaska? Minnesota? I'm betting on Alaska.
> 
> On Sat, May 24, 2008 at 6:49 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Heading to the great white north
>> --
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] slipping trannies and the magic cure

2008-05-27 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Sorry to burst your bubble but more than likely if an auto box slips in 
just one shift it is not a vacuum issue, as the vacuum modulator affects 
all shifts. If you adjust the modulator to tighten up the shift you may 
well find that the other shifts will be harsh.
More probable is a problem in the valve block or a worn clutch.
If someone could refresh my memory as to what car and what the problem 
is I can have a bit of a look at the manual.

Hendrik
with a slipping memory

Loren Faeth wrote:
> Check for vacuum leaks.  I had no flaring with it.  I am surprised 
> that it has started, so I am inclined to look for vacuum hoses that 
> are bad or bumped off/loose
>
> I believe you can fix the odometer by gluing the slipping gear to the 
> shaft with epoxy.  I have done that with other mBs, just never got to 
> doing it on that car.  Rough uo the shaft next to the gear with a 
> file.  Rough up the edge of the gear next to the rough sopt on the 
> shaft, wrap a drop of epoxy around the roughed up area.  Let it sit 
> for at least 24 hours, then drive away.  I did that on my 200D back 
> in 1970-something and it is still holding.  Caveat:  I have never 
> done this on a 124.  Just 110/111 and 123.
>
>   
>

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Re: [MBZ] 124 Shock Conversion [was: Re: 103 Head issue]

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Where is Ron these days?  I think he has dropped off the planet

Mitch Haley wrote:
> Craig McCluskey wrote:
>> I see. It applies only to wagons, then?
> 
> Wagons, euro cars with towing package, and some S-class cars had SLS. 
> Somebody on this list has/had a euro 240D with towing package / self
> leveling suspension, and I think Ron Dwelle had a 190D euro with that
> setup. I should make sure Ron knows I want that car if it ever gets
> wrecked, I don't think he's in a hurry to part with it otherwise. 
> 
> Mitch.
> 
> ___
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> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
$200

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
> interior and rusty but restorable body is worth?  No warranty on the used
> transmission either!
> 
> On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 10:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> 
>> I dont really see any cracks on that head of yours.  I have a place that
>> can actually rebuild the 14;s anyway and they seem to hold up.
>>
>> Luther wrote:
>>> That is a posibility, since Kaleb traded me his solid 617 block for my
>> cracked 603 head.
>>> Luther
>>>
>>> On Thu, 22 May 2008 08:51:30 -0500, Loren Faeth <
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 IF the head on the trashed engine is good, then buy a short
 block.  If the head has more than a couple of small cracks, i'd be
 inclined to buy a long block if it is not too pricey.  Last I knew MB
 only supplied short blocks.  Do check prices from several MB dealers
 who cater to MBCA.  Often the factory price is the best price.

 Check capitol motors, and ask for the MBCA discount on everything you
 will need to get the car running.  you never know what all the little
 stuff is that you will need.  Check with greater DC Section of
 MBCA.  Surely some of the members have found a good engine builder in
 the surrounding area.

 Check with Potomac G.A.P.  They are high, but they may have a good
 engine or short block, if your head is good.  Check sun valley
 Mercedes Dismantlers in CA.  They may have a good complete
 engine.  It is the TD head that you  need, unless you can fit a
 tandem pump ala 124 TD.  In that case, you only need a sedan 617
 turbo engine.  Another option might be to find a good crank.  Luther
 had a 617 with a hole in the side.  Ask Luther if the crank was good
 in that engine.  Potomac should have a good crank.



>>>
>>>
>> --
>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
>>  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
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>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>>
> ___
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Im off

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
further north

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> Illinois?
> 
> On Sat, May 24, 2008 at 7:49 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> 
>> Heading to the great white north
>> --
>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
>>  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] Im off

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
No, he now wants to keep the car.  You might be able to do some sort of 
swap with Todd though maybe.

Luther wrote:
> bringing back the engine to swap me for my 85?
> 
> Luther, mobile-Blackjack II
> 
> 
> - Message from [EMAIL PROTECTED] -
> 
> 
>> Heading to the great white north
>> --
>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
>>   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>>   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>>   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
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>>
>>
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Im back from the great white north

2008-05-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Anything involving a trip to toads involves bad weather.  Heavy rains 
all the way up to ST. Louis.  After that cleared up.  Have a nice visit 
with Todd, I have him a 250D with a bad engine, I came back with a 66 
220SEb finny.  Not sure what the hell Im going to do with that.  Thing 
has been in a warehouse for years.  Loaded it up the night before we 
left, and of course they have thunderstorms up there.  Rained on the 
car.  Next day, thing has rusted out.  Was not rusted before.  Left 
Monday to head back home.  No weather problems but cops everywhere. 
Stayed overnight in the St Louis area so we could take the kids to the 
arch etc.  Did that this morning, got out of there and it started 
raining again.  Rained alot of the way home.  At some point on I44 Im 
coming down a huge hill, probably doing 75 when I get half way down.  I 
notice up ahead quite a bit of water on the highway. The whole 
interstate has probably 6 inches of water over it in a huge area.  I try 
to slow down but slam into it at about 65mph.  I was worried but the 
duramax just plowed right thru it.  Im sure that place turned into a 
disaster at some point during the day.  Made it home, the finny has just 
about tacoed from being rained on for 2 days.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] more stupid dog issues

2008-05-27 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Nothing wrong with a Bitza, if you know what bits are in it and can get 
a look at the parents.
Pit bulls are notorious for violent behaviour and can snap. Although 
their reputation has been excagerted because most pit bull owners are 
clueless idiots who do not know how to manage the breed. A lot of pit 
bulls are bought by weak little bastards who try and tough up their 
image by having a tough dog, however I have also seen a lot of well 
trained pit bulls  that where very good dogs but I still wouldn't trust 
them with little kids because it is breed into them to fight and all of 
a sudden they want to have a little playfight with the kids.
Another good way to choose a dog is to go to an animal shelter where 
dogs are accessed for their temperament, before we bought our Jack I 
went to the animal shelter and was going to buy a young Jack Russel but 
the people at the shelter wouldn't sell him to me because it had been 
accessed as not suitable for young children.

Hendrik
with a dog on his lap giving me big kisses

LarryT wrote:
> I think you were right to go purebred - I used to avoid them also and have 
> gotten some wonderful non-biting mixed breeds at the local SPCA - also I 
> disliked the way some puppy mills operate which turned me against them. 
> It's hard to know the history of a puppy unless you visit the kennel who 
> raised her.  For a dog to be so terrified of thunder must have had a bad 
> experience at some point - like a Cockerpoo we had who out in the back yard 
> (we lived in the country) when a T Storm blew thru - scared her bad and we 
> didnt see her for 5 days.  My son found her while riding his bike (my son, 
> not the dog) one afternoon.
>
> After that she always got close to us when a storm was close - but that was 
> it - she just wanted to be close to us and she was fine.
>
> YMMV -
>
> Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
>   
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 30, Issue 163

2008-05-27 Thread LWB250
Something else you'll want to do to make the job go
easier, especially if this car has seen winter, is to
get under it in advance and hose down the fittings
with some penetrating oil.

Flare nut wrenches are a must for this, too, as with
any other open end wrench you'll round off the
fittings, and you DON'T want to be trying to  get
chewed up fitting off from underneath the car, believe
me...

Changing the spheres will make a substantial
difference in the way it handles and drives,
especially if they're the original ones.

One note of caution:  DO NOT alter the linkage on the
leveling valve.  If it's not set correctly it can
cause the whole system to go up in flames, or fail
prematurely.

Also be sure to get the proper hydraulic fluid from
Rusty, as anything other than the MB approved fluid
can attack the seals.  You'll need a couple of liters
to flush and refill the system.

Dan

--- Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks, Max!
> 
> I shall do that. It DOES make sense, now that you
> mention it, that  
> such a stiff ride would be bad for something.
> 
> Glad to know they are so inexpensive.
> 
> Dan
> 



  

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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 30, Issue 163

2008-05-27 Thread Dan Weeks
Thanks, Max!

I shall do that. It DOES make sense, now that you mention it, that  
such a stiff ride would be bad for something.

Glad to know they are so inexpensive.

Dan


On May 27, 2008, at 5:36 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Dan,
>
> My understanding is that when the accumulators are bad, the  
> hydraulic fluid transmits all road shocks directly to the SLS  
> control valve and can damage it eventually.  I'd recommend you  
> replace the accumulators sooner rather than later, and change the  
> fluid while you are there.  They cost about $100 per, and are the  
> wear item in the system (require replacement roughly every 100k  
> miles or so).  Think about them like shock absorbers (they do the  
> same job) and remember that shocks need to be replaced every so  
> often as well.
>
> I just changed the SLS fluid for my wagon.  Disconnected the return  
> line at the reservoir, rigged temporary line into suitable  
> container, started motor and let the SLS pump all the fluid out of  
> the reservoir and into the bucket.  Shut off engine when reservoir  
> was nearly empty, removed reservoir and cleaned it and replaced  
> weeping supply line to pump, installed and filled with clean  
> fluid.  Re-started car until fluid ran clear out of return line,  
> shut down engine, restored connections and topped off fluid.  Very  
> easy to do if you don't need to replace the supply line.
>
> Max Dillon, Digest Lurker
>
> '87 300TD, 308k miles
>
> Charleston SC

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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Alex Chamberlain
>> If I were draining the cooling system and pulling that hose anyway, I
>> would take the opportunity to test the monovalve.

I ought to amplify that---of course I mean "test the monovalve and see
if it needs replacement."  They don't fail nearly as often as on the
123 and 126 chassis, it seems like, but they do fail.  On my 300D I
get uneven temperature control especially when accelerating from a
stop, and I strongly suspect that the monovalve is not closing all the
way when it should.  I asked at some point how to test it, and someone
(Peter?) said that it was pretty obvious---it either is supposed to
close all the way when current is applied, and open when not, or vice
versa.  No "partially open" state is implemented or needed---it's
controlled not by a variable voltage but by PWM from the climate
control brain.

Alex Chamberlain
passel of 124s

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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Wilton Strickland
Thanks, Alex.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core


> On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 3:29 PM, Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> > Yes, very near the battery, anyway.  Thanks.
> >
>
> If I were draining the cooling system and pulling that hose anyway, I
> would take the opportunity to test the monovalve.
>
> Alex
>
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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 3:29 PM, Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yes, very near the battery, anyway.  Thanks.
>

If I were draining the cooling system and pulling that hose anyway, I
would take the opportunity to test the monovalve.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] CD JOB 83-40

2008-05-27 Thread Wilton Strickland
BTW, Peter, 'was hoping you'd found a magic way to get at evap without htr
core.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CD JOB 83-40


> On the evaporator you need only remove the hose set.  Of course you
> need to remove the heater hoses.  You will need to loosen the clamp
> bolt on the bulkhead to get the hose set off the expansion valve and
> to get the hose set back on.  It's between the fuse box and strut
> mount, on the return hose.
>
> You may also need to unplug the ouside air temp wires, but you can do
> that without taking the trims loose.
>
> Peter
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] CD JOB 83-40

2008-05-27 Thread Wilton Strickland
Yes, thanks.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CD JOB 83-40


> On the evaporator you need only remove the hose set.  Of course you  
> need to remove the heater hoses.  You will need to loosen the clamp  
> bolt on the bulkhead to get the hose set off the expansion valve and  
> to get the hose set back on.  It's between the fuse box and strut  
> mount, on the return hose.
> 
> You may also need to unplug the ouside air temp wires, but you can do  
> that without taking the trims loose.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] CD JOB 83-40

2008-05-27 Thread Peter Frederick
On the evaporator you need only remove the hose set.  Of course you  
need to remove the heater hoses.  You will need to loosen the clamp  
bolt on the bulkhead to get the hose set off the expansion valve and  
to get the hose set back on.  It's between the fuse box and strut  
mount, on the return hose.

You may also need to unplug the ouside air temp wires, but you can do  
that without taking the trims loose.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Wilton Strickland
Yes, very near the battery, anyway.  Thanks.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core


> Beside the battery.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
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[MBZ] CD JOB 83-40

2008-05-27 Thread Wilton Strickland
Peter, you said that for evapectomy, ALL I need to do on engine side is
remove ref hoses (one bolt/nut) from exp valve.  'You sure?  Don't I need to
remove entire evap/heater core BOX from inside car?  This, of course,
requires disconnecting htr hoses, doesn't it?

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Peter Frederick
Beside the battery.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?

2008-05-27 Thread LarryT
The battery for my W124 (91 300D 2.5T) has the vent tube - came like 
that from AutoZone  - bought in Feb 06, IIRC. I guess that is to prevent 
acid damage to metal structures in the engine compartment?

Seems like a good idea - unless the tube goes near something important 
;-^

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?


> Many batteries in the last 20 years have had a vent tube attachment
> point, allowing the gas to be vented away from the engine area.  Most
> motorcycle batteries have this feature also.  The Autolite battery
> for my escort had this, as the battery was mounted in the passenger
> compartment.  useful also for old VWs etc.  I think the o'reilly
> batteries had this, but maybe not.  I know I vented the battery in
> the 240D at some point with a piece of rubber surgical tubing.  I
> don't remember what battery that was.
>
> Sounds like this should have been used for subarus.
>
>
> At 11:06 AM 5/27/2008, you wrote:
>>I think the best part about buying an Optima is not having rust at the 
>>back of
>>the engine compartment from battery fumes. Fortunately, MBZ runs lower 
>>voltage
>>than most, so it isn't as bad as, say, my 1979 Subaru (heck, all of the
>>70's and early 80's Subarus had rusted out fender tops on the right side).
>>
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>
> Loren Faeth
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?

2008-05-27 Thread John Robbins
As far as Autozone is concerned... there doesn't appear to be anything 
on the surface

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autozone

Loren Faeth wrote:
> Dunno, I heard there was a link between Autozone and dead sam.  I 
> heard that Autozone was a sam daughter, and o'R was taken to the 
> national scene by involvement of the the Ex of the said daughter of 
> dead sam.  You tell me, I don't know.  I do know the head shed of 
> Oreilly's is in the same region; Springfield MO is not far from Bentonville.
> 
> At 03:07 PM 5/27/2008, you wrote:
>> Are you implying a relationship between the Walton family and O'Reilly's?
>>
>>>  All that said, I DON'T like sending all my money to Arkansas.
>>>
>> --
>> OK Don, KD5NRO
>> Norman, OK
>> "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
>> -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
>> '90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
>> Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)
>>
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> 
> Loren Faeth 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?

2008-05-27 Thread Loren Faeth
Dunno, I heard there was a link between Autozone and dead sam.  I 
heard that Autozone was a sam daughter, and o'R was taken to the 
national scene by involvement of the the Ex of the said daughter of 
dead sam.  You tell me, I don't know.  I do know the head shed of 
Oreilly's is in the same region; Springfield MO is not far from Bentonville.

At 03:07 PM 5/27/2008, you wrote:
>Are you implying a relationship between the Walton family and O'Reilly's?
>
> >  All that said, I DON'T like sending all my money to Arkansas.
> >
>
>--
>OK Don, KD5NRO
>Norman, OK
>"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
>-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
>'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
>Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)
>
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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Buick $ Question

2008-05-27 Thread Kevin
Something else to consider, parts for the first couple years of the full
size GM FWD with a 3.8 are rather scarce. They completely changed things in
87 or 88, and totally abandoned the electronics that were on the earlier cars.
Supporting an earlier one today is going to be expensive. Save your money and
get a couple years newer car.

On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 01:02:56PM -0500, Donald Snook wrote:
> Randy wrote: "Old friend has an 86 Buick Electra that he wants to sell.
> He wants $2K. I told him it was a $500 car."
> 
> 86 has the 3.8 engine that was the precursor to the real 3800 (that came out 
> in 88).  It is a good engine, but the common failure on the 86-87 3.8 engine 
> was the timing chain.  They had plastic gears and a plastic guide that would 
> fail.  With 115,000 miles, you probably have some timing chain noise.  I had 
> a 1985 Olds 98 (essentially the same car as the electra) and the timing chain 
> was making noise. It is not hard to fix.  Except, it is easiest to remove the 
> front cv axle to get yourself access to the front cover, so you will have to 
> have it aligned afterwards.  86 also did not have the new harmonic balancer 
> that came out in 88.  The other potential problem is the transmission - just 
> make sure the fluid has been changed frequently enough.  Pull the pain.  The 
> common failure on them is a plastic part that will break off and end up in 
> the band. It looks like a clutch band but it isn't.  I think in 86 the went 
> to the distributorless ignition (85 still had a distributor).
> 
> These really are good cars. Check the transmission, listen for timing chain 
> noise, and check the cv boots. Assuming all of these things check out, you 
> probably have a good car.  The only typical things that fail are alternators 
> and water pumps.  Neither one is that hard to replace.  86 might have the old 
> style alternator with the bigger bearing (you can also rebuild the old style 
> alts).   The motor mounts and transmission mounts also go bad on a car that 
> old.  The motor mounts are not hard, the transmission mount is pretty easy.  
> You can tell they are bad if the transmission feels like it bangs into 
> reverse.
> 
> They also have a crank sensor that failed. GM had three updates and only the 
> last one worked.  I would think that after 22 years, this car has gotten the 
> new one. The bearings also go bad on the blower motor.  It will start 
> squealing on hard turns with the vent/a/c on.  They are cheap and VERY easy 
> to replace.  Just push the tabs on the glove box and the whole thing will 
> slide down and the blower motor is right there.
> 
> As far as price, $2000 is too much and $500 is too low for one with such low 
> mileage.  Up to $1200 or so would be what I would try to pay.
> 
> I just paid $500 for my 90 Buick LeSabre with 185,000 miles.

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Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?

2008-05-27 Thread OK Don
Are you implying a relationship between the Walton family and O'Reilly's?

>  All that said, I DON'T like sending all my money to Arkansas.
>

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] OT: cheaper than a unimog

2008-05-27 Thread Ed Booher
On Sun, May 25, 2008 at 2:54 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Around 3000 miles away in NY..LOLOL
>
> Mike


While the fuel cost would be prohibitive, coast to coast, the things
wouldn't stop for anything. Mountain, desert, lake, ocean, Canada ..
it's like the Energizer bunny.

EdB

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Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core

2008-05-27 Thread Wilton Strickland
'Thought so.  'Found it; immediately BEHIND inner corner of battery.
Thanks, Alex!

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hoses to heater core


> On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 12:42 PM, Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> > In preparing for evapectomy on my 124, I can easily see one of the hoses
to
> > the heat exchanger (heater core) right by the brake booster.  Where's
the
> > other one?
>
> Just in front of the battery, a stubby hose leading to the monovalve
> and thence to the primary expansion tank.  Maybe iit's obscured by the
> air cleaner on the 300D?  My mental picture of what's where under the
> hood on a 124 is all muddled from dealing with both a gasser and a
> diesel on alternate days.  ;)
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D, '86 300E, et al.
>
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Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?

2008-05-27 Thread Loren Faeth
Private message to Max:  Send that check!

Oreilly's has a pretty decent supply and sources for MB.  I advocate 
buying from Rusty, but for things like batteries where you usually 
need one now, a FLAPS makes sense.

They told me yesterday they could order a "rebuilt" driveshaft for 
the 300D (124) for  around $400.  Other places have quoted $900.  I 
did not find out if that included new flex plates and bolts.  If so, 
it is a reasonable solution, since the flex plates are probably close 
to $100 each by now.  I like their  cheapest grade of brake 
pads.  All that said, I DON'T like sending all my money to Arkansas.

At 12:07 PM 5/27/2008, you wrote:
>Loren,
>
>Good point, perhaps I should go that route.  We do have O'Reillys 
>here in the Low Country, I have never bothered to go in.  Parks is 
>the best place to go in a pinch, they are open until midnight every 
>day and tend to have parts for everything although one must wait at 
>the counter while they search their vast warehouse.
>
>I guess I must be wealthy, as I will gladly pay more money to get 
>the right part in a convenient fashion.  I just don't have time to fool around.
>
>Max Dillon, digest lurker
>
>'87 300TD, 308k miles
>
>Charleston SC
>
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> 
>
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Loren Faeth 


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[MBZ] OT - Buick $ Question

2008-05-27 Thread Donald Snook
Randy wrote: "Old friend has an 86 Buick Electra that he wants to sell.
He wants $2K. I told him it was a $500 car."

86 has the 3.8 engine that was the precursor to the real 3800 (that came out in 
88).  It is a good engine, but the common failure on the 86-87 3.8 engine was 
the timing chain.  They had plastic gears and a plastic guide that would fail.  
With 115,000 miles, you probably have some timing chain noise.  I had a 1985 
Olds 98 (essentially the same car as the electra) and the timing chain was 
making noise. It is not hard to fix.  Except, it is easiest to remove the front 
cv axle to get yourself access to the front cover, so you will have to have it 
aligned afterwards.  86 also did not have the new harmonic balancer that came 
out in 88.  The other potential problem is the transmission - just make sure 
the fluid has been changed frequently enough.  Pull the pain.  The common 
failure on them is a plastic part that will break off and end up in the band. 
It looks like a clutch band but it isn't.  I think in 86 the went to the 
distributorless ignition (85 still had a distributor).

These really are good cars. Check the transmission, listen for timing chain 
noise, and check the cv boots. Assuming all of these things check out, you 
probably have a good car.  The only typical things that fail are alternators 
and water pumps.  Neither one is that hard to replace.  86 might have the old 
style alternator with the bigger bearing (you can also rebuild the old style 
alts).   The motor mounts and transmission mounts also go bad on a car that 
old.  The motor mounts are not hard, the transmission mount is pretty easy.  
You can tell they are bad if the transmission feels like it bangs into reverse.

They also have a crank sensor that failed. GM had three updates and only the 
last one worked.  I would think that after 22 years, this car has gotten the 
new one. The bearings also go bad on the blower motor.  It will start squealing 
on hard turns with the vent/a/c on.  They are cheap and VERY easy to replace.  
Just push the tabs on the glove box and the whole thing will slide down and the 
blower motor is right there.

As far as price, $2000 is too much and $500 is too low for one with such low 
mileage.  Up to $1200 or so would be what I would try to pay.

I just paid $500 for my 90 Buick LeSabre with 185,000 miles.

Donald H. Snook



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Re: [MBZ] car for BOOHER

2008-05-27 Thread Ed Booher
Wouldn't you know it, I'm on shift all week and can't check messages at
work, get home today to login for the first time in days, and see this link
that is deleted by poster. *sighs*

Thank you, as always, for thinking of me though. It's very appreciated.

EdB

On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 4:11 PM, Redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/687497621.html
>
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?

2008-05-27 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN Charleston SC J63
Loren,

Good point, perhaps I should go that route.  We do have O'Reillys here in the 
Low Country, I have never bothered to go in.  Parks is the best place to go in 
a pinch, they are open until midnight every day and tend to have parts for 
everything although one must wait at the counter while they search their vast 
warehouse.

I guess I must be wealthy, as I will gladly pay more money to get the right 
part in a convenient fashion.  I just don't have time to fool around.

Max Dillon, digest lurker

'87 300TD, 308k miles

Charleston SC

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Re: [MBZ] 124 diesel battery recommendation?

2008-05-27 Thread Loren Faeth
Many batteries in the last 20 years have had a vent tube attachment 
point, allowing the gas to be vented away from the engine area.  Most 
motorcycle batteries have this feature also.  The Autolite battery 
for my escort had this, as the battery was mounted in the passenger 
compartment.  useful also for old VWs etc.  I think the o'reilly 
batteries had this, but maybe not.  I know I vented the battery in 
the 240D at some point with a piece of rubber surgical tubing.  I 
don't remember what battery that was.

Sounds like this should have been used for subarus.


At 11:06 AM 5/27/2008, you wrote:
>I think the best part about buying an Optima is not having rust at the back of
>the engine compartment from battery fumes. Fortunately, MBZ runs lower voltage
>than most, so it isn't as bad as, say, my 1979 Subaru (heck, all of the
>70's and early 80's Subarus had rusted out fender tops on the right side).
>
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Loren Faeth 


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[MBZ] 124 Rear Suspension for Dan Weeks

2008-05-27 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN Charleston SC J63
Dan,

My understanding is that when the accumulators are bad, the hydraulic fluid 
transmits all road shocks directly to the SLS control valve and can damage it 
eventually.  I'd recommend you replace the accumulators sooner rather than 
later, and change the fluid while you are there.  They cost about $100 per, and 
are the wear item in the system (require replacement roughly every 100k miles 
or so).  Think about them like shock absorbers (they do the same job) and 
remember that shocks need to be replaced every so often as well.

I just changed the SLS fluid for my wagon.  Disconnected the return line at the 
reservoir, rigged temporary line into suitable container, started motor and let 
the SLS pump all the fluid out of the reservoir and into the bucket.  Shut off 
engine when reservoir was nearly empty, removed reservoir and cleaned it and 
replaced weeping supply line to pump, installed and filled with clean fluid.  
Re-started car until fluid ran clear out of return line, shut down engine, 
restored connections and topped off fluid.  Very easy to do if you don't need 
to replace the supply line.

Max Dillon, Digest Lurker

'87 300TD, 308k miles

Charleston SC

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Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft vibration solution

2008-05-27 Thread Loren Faeth
Yeah, I know.  I chased the driveshaft shake all over the place on my 
SDL after an idiot took it apart after they took it off without my 
permission.  I never did find it.

At 11:18 AM 5/27/2008, you wrote:
>That is great Loren. Nothing worse to track and fix than vibrations. 
>Sometimes $ is spent without much success.
>
>Randy
>
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
>Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:28 AM
>To: Mercedes Discussion List
>Subject: [MBZ] Drive shaft vibration solution
>
>
>In recent weeks we had a discussion, started by K'leb about
>driveshaft vibration.  My 87 300D has had this problem since I got
>it.  last night, after curing 3 other vehicles, I got to the
>driveshaft problem.  I found a used driveshaft for $50 and put a new
>carrier bearing and rubber mount on it. (thx Rusty)  The new shaft
>had a flat spot in the u joint bearing, but i figured it would last a
>couple of more years anyway.  It came with the rubber flex disks, but
>no bolts.  the front flex disk was good, but the rear showed cracking.
>
>With that ready, it was time to tackle the problem.  When i got the
>"old" driveshaft out, it looked pretty good, and the ujoint was
>good.  The alignment marks lined up, so my first suspicion was
>negated.  Both flex disks showed some cracking, but no bad
>tears.  when I pulled them off the shaft, I looked again, and saw one
>bushing was chewed up on one flex plate.  After this, I started
>looking things over and found a matching messed up area on the rear
>pinion flange.  I saw the pinion nut takes a special wrench,
>different than the one I made for the 123 240D.  I decided to try
>putting it back together, since there was no way to get a new flex
>disk on Memorial day, at 7 PM.  When I put the rear disk on, I bolted
>down the two good bushing counterbores on the rear flange first, then
>tightened down the messed up one, hoping that the first two would
>align the third.  I used the chewed up bolt in a different hole, and
>the nut on yet a third hole.  (I checked and could not find any used
>flex joint bolts around.  I may end up putting a new flex disk on the
>rear at some point, and i may actually pay to replace the rear flange
>someday.  But not wanting to have the car up on blocks littering my
>driveway for a week or more, I opted to put it back together.
>
>Obviously, some knucklehead left a bolt loose at some time.  Always
>take a couple of minutes to be sure all 6 (12) bolts are actually
>tight after you finish driveshaft work.
>
>After I finished, I put the car down and took it for a little test
>drive.Absolutely, wonderfully, SMOOTH!  Success!
>
>It looks like I have a spare driveshaft.  Good insurance that the
>other one will not give out.
>
>
>
>Loren Faeth
>
>
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