Re: [MBZ] Water pump or thermostat?

[Barry Stark]

Curt -
I'm guessing a quick check of the gage would be to have someone watch the
instrument cluster and pull the connector off of the temperature gage, note
the gage reaction and then ground the gage connector and see if the gage
swings the opposite direction. You can do this with a cold engine and engine
running or not. Likely have to have the key set to the run position.

Barry

>It could of course be the gauge. That'll be my first thing to test. Any
other
> ideas?


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Barry Stark]

Rick -
A couple of ideas. As has been mentioned the oil cooler line nuts screwing
onto the oil cooler fittings can sometimes seize and gall the threads on the
cooler fitting when you try to remove them. If the nut feels like it is
starting to gall stop and whip out your trusty Dremel tool with one of the
abrasive cutting disks mounted. Cut into the nut parallel to the oil line so
you can help relieve the pressure on the threads. You want to weaken the nut
so it will split open. You can stick a blade screwdriver into the cut and
twist it a bit to open up the nut if possible. You want to go slowly as to
try and not cut into the threads on the cooler fitting. The slick fix, if
the threads on the cooler do happen to become compromised, is to saw off the
damaged fitting on the cooler and drill and tap the cooler for a new union
fitting. As I recall from others instructions, as I haven't done this
myself, you can use a fitting like the one on the oil filter housing. You
might find something in the archives about the process. If not in the
okiebenz archives it is likely in the Ritter list archives. If you don't
have access to that list archives let me know and I will search them for
you. Also, when reassembling the clamp that holds the center of the oil
lines at the block, assuming the 123 is like my 126 in that respect, you may
find it difficult to assemble the clamp if you have secured the oil cooler
hose nuts. The easy way is to just start both ends of both hoses just a few
threads so everything is wiggly loose. Once you get the clamp loosely
assembled you can go ahead and tighten up the hose end fittings and finally
the clamp screw. Oh yeah, it seemed to me, at least on my 126, that things
went a bunch easier if I supported the engine and removed the left side
motor mount arm. Now it has been 8 years or more since I did this and memory
being what it is if someone with more recent experience has any corrections
please feel free.

Barry  


> Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler
> lines and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.


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Re: [MBZ] '77 240D alternator belt adjustment woes

[Kevin Kraly]

Well, therein lies the problem.  I only "see" two bolts, the "toothy" one at 
the top and a pivot bolt at the bottom, both currently loose.  Where would 
the third bolt be?  Does it come in from the front with a nut on the 
backside like the other two?  It's been a while since I've dealt with one of 
these on my first '78 300D whose toothy bolt wasn't up to the task either. 
On this 240D with the two afore mentioned bolts loose, the alt will move 
1/4" or a little more back and forth.  I can't move it by hand to get any 
tightness on the belt.


Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
1977 240D 315Kmi, Liesel the Diesel 



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Re: [MBZ] smokin SDL

[Rolf]

Most likely culprit, cracked oil supply line.

-Rolf

On 3/4/2012 12:25 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil is 
dripping on the passenger side near the rear of the engine.  The 
engine is also smoking more than normal.


Turbo seals?
Turbo drain seals?

anything else that could be causing oil drips and oil into the cylinders?

Subject is 1987 300SDL

Thanks to all!

On second thought, the smoke could be oil going out the hot exhaust, 
and not actually created in the cylinders, if the turbo seal(s) blew.



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Re: [MBZ] one of the strangest things I've ever seen...

[Rolf]

Nah they were going dutch.

-Rolf

On 3/7/2012 11:37 PM, clay monroe wrote:

mousey suicide pact?

clay

On Mar 7, 2012, at 8:32 PM, Allan Streib wrote:


We've had a mouse invasion recently.  Mostly in the garage, but I saw
one in the basement last week.  I set a trap (snap-type, baited with
peanut butter), and it was empty for a few days.  Today I went to check
it and it had caught TWO mice at the same time.  Never known mice to
dine in pairs

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] one of the strangest things I've ever seen...

[clay monroe]

mousey suicide pact?

clay

On Mar 7, 2012, at 8:32 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

> We've had a mouse invasion recently.  Mostly in the garage, but I saw
> one in the basement last week.  I set a trap (snap-type, baited with
> peanut butter), and it was empty for a few days.  Today I went to check
> it and it had caught TWO mice at the same time.  Never known mice to
> dine in pairs
> 
> Allan
> -- 
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
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[MBZ] one of the strangest things I've ever seen...

[Allan Streib]

We've had a mouse invasion recently.  Mostly in the garage, but I saw
one in the basement last week.  I set a trap (snap-type, baited with
peanut butter), and it was empty for a few days.  Today I went to check
it and it had caught TWO mice at the same time.  Never known mice to
dine in pairs

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Rolf]

PS you will need to make one of the wrenches on the cooler lines 
thinner. 22mm IIRC


On 3/7/2012 11:32 PM, Rolf wrote:
The reason the oil cooler lines strip is that everyone over tightens 
them. IIRC its only 18ftlb or less. Last time I did it I got it snug 
and gave it a little more.


On 3/7/2012 4:59 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler 
lines

and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.

Thanks In Advance,

Rick





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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Rolf]

The reason the oil cooler lines strip is that everyone over tightens 
them. IIRC its only 18ftlb or less. Last time I did it I got it snug and 
gave it a little more.


On 3/7/2012 4:59 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler lines
and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.

Thanks In Advance,

Rick





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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Allan Streib]

I used ATF/acetone on the fittings the day before I did mine, and the
fittings were undamaged.  Counterholding the fittings as has been
describe is very important.

Getting the hard lines out is a bit tedious.  I don't recall exactly
what worked.

Allan

Dan Penoff  writes:

> That's what happened on my 82 SD as well.  It was the lower fitting and it 
> was goobered up when I took it off.
>
> I wrapped a few feet of teflon tape around it and it finally stopped leaking.
>
> Dan
>
>  
> On Mar 7, 2012, at 9:41 PM, David & Kristin Gilmore wrote:
>
>> At 05:18 PM 3/7/2012, Mitch Haley wrote:
>>> Use two wrenches on the cooler lines. One to turn the nut and the other to 
>>> hold the fitting on the filter housing or especially radiator steady. 
>>> Situate the wrenches so that you can loosen the nut by squeezing the two 
>>> wrenches together, then you won't put any twisting action on the fitting 
>>> that isn't supposed to move. Last thing you want to do is twist the fitting 
>>> out of the radiator.
>> 
>> I remember doing the counter holding and penetrating oil tricks on the 
>> oil cooler lines on my 83 SD and still the cooler fitting was messed up when 
>> the hose coupling finally came off.  Appeared to be galvanic corrosion 
>> between the aluminum fitting and the steel hose coupling - sort of lumpy 
>> crud that when removed showed the fitting to be badly pitted.  I couldn't 
>> get it to not seep oil at the lower cooler connection.  I bought a  second 
>> hand oil cooler by mail and found the lower fitting corroded in the same 
>> way.  Salt spray I guess.  Finally just slathered JB Weld on what was left 
>> of the threads of the original cooler fitting and that stopped the leak.  
>> (And now I have a spare cooler for next time.)
>> 
>> 
>> Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV
>> 
>> 
>> Those  who demand judicial diversity have implicitly given up on the 
>> rule of law.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
> ___
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>
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>

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Adventures in W126 HVAC Repair - I Surrender

[Scott Ritchey]

I'm finally over that #$%@ cold that sidelined me for about a month and the
day was warm, so I went back to work on my floor heat problem.  It was
completely frustrating.

I've given up fixing this @#$% thing.  It's so cramped in there I don't see
any way to even glue it without removing the entire heater assembly, which
involves draining coolant and recovering R12. That's too much. I've already
removed everything but the dash and steering wheel and there's just no way
to get at the broken parts, even just to glue them.  My back seat is full of
center console, floor mats, dash under panels, HVAC ducts, etc. (hope I can
get it all back together).  My plan at this point is to rig up a string to
manually hold the floor-heat flaps open in winter.  I'm thinking about
anchoring it to the pax flap, running through an eye inside the driver-side
flap and then coming out a hole on the pax side flap.  Then I can just pull
on the string (and hook it to something) to open both flaps.  If the
friction is low enough, they should still blow closed when the string is
released.

Thanks to all for your advice but that are is just too inaccessible to fix
it right.  But I'm still open to new ideas

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Scott Ritchey
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 5:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Adventures in W126 HVAC Repair

For some years, the floor heat in my 1982 300SD hasn't worked.  Limited
investigation showed that the floor heat flaps moved freely (as if no
connection to any linkages) so the flaps simply "blew shut" when the blower
ran.

 

We had a spell of warm weather (50s F) so I decided to attack the problem
this week. Now the back seat is full of floor mats, center console, under
dash panels, etc.  Here's what I discovered so far.  These flaps (one left
and one right) have a splined shaft at the top and that's what broke. So the
flaps need to be replaced.  The right flap cost is reasonable (like $40) but
the left is outta sight (like $200).  

 

Here's an operating schematic:
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/floor_heat_schematic

 

Here's the general layout:
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/heater_case

 

Here's what the parts actually look like:
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/parts

Note the splines on top end of the flap shaft.  The black parts go on the
left and the white parts on the right.  The white lever-gear snaps apart
into the lever/gear (top) and a keeper that snaps in from below to lock it
in place

 

On the left flap, a lever arm slides onto the splines and "snaps into the
heater case: http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/left_flap_lever

 

 

On the right side, a gear slides onto the splines and that gear mates with
another gear with a lever similar to the left side.
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/right_flap_gears

 

The metal action bar that engages the ends of both of these levers such that
when the bar moves left the left both flaps open.  The action bar has a 90
degree arm pointing down and the vacuum element pulls the bar left under
vacuum and moves it right via the element's return spring.

 

So much for sharing what I've learned so far.  Now here's my current
problem.  As a minimum, I think I must separate the upper and lower heater
case to install the new flaps. I don't know if I can spread the lower case
(from the upper case) sufficiently with the heater box still in the car and
I don't want to discharge the R12 AC system or pull the dash and steering
wheel.  If I have to pull the heater box from the car to fix this, I'll just
try to put it all back together and learn to live with the problem (i.e. not
use the car in winter).

 

So my question is.  Does anyone know if it's possible to replace these flaps
with the heater case still in the car???

 

Thanks.

Scott in NC

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Re: [MBZ] Water pump or thermostat?

[Fred Moir]

Curt.
Use the IR thermometer that I gave you!

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 3/7/2012 10:02 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Thermostats fail far more often than water pumps.
They're cheaper and easier to replace, too.
Using an IR thermometer on the head is the first
test, though, it'll tell you if the gauge is lying
or not.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Water pump or thermostat?

[Dieselhead]

Thermostat.  Get one from rusty or stealer.  No flaps crap.


Sunday morn we took my 78 240D to breakfast, then ran home for a 
minute. As it was cold out I left the car running while I ran into 
the house. When I got back to the car maybe two minutes later the 
temp gauge was not quite pegged but definetly sitting at nearly the 
top of the swing. I ran it to the end of the street to see if moving 
would bring it down but it didn't. The belt to the water pump is in 
place and not burnt or loose. The coolant level is normal, there are 
no untoward noises.


So I'm thinking its probably either the waterpump or thermostat. The 
question is how do I rule one out without replacing one? The 
waterpump looks like a bear as the AC compressor bracket is in the 
way. It could of course be the gauge. That'll be my first thing to 
test. Any other ideas?


-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Water pump or thermostat?

[Jim Cathey]

Thermostats fail far more often than water pumps.
They're cheaper and easier to replace, too.
Using an IR thermometer on the head is the first
test, though, it'll tell you if the gauge is lying
or not.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Question

[Jim Cathey]

If the plug is bad, the current will be less.


Or more!  I've seen that too.

It is very rare for the plug to ohm out right yet
not work right, due to the way it's constructed.
It's either open-circuit, or possibly partially
shorted inside so that the heat doesn't go all
the way out at the tip.  Those, though, will
usually draw different current than they ought
to.

It takes a pretty good meter to do reliable
sub-ohm measurements.  I'm extremely fond of
the Fluke 80 series.  They certainly work for
this.  The automotive ammeter is even better,
though.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] '77 240D alternator belt adjustment woes

[Jim Cathey]

I fought with the thing for nearly 3 hours with no success!  I got the 
bolts loose, tried to move the adjustor bolt with the teeth that slide 
the bracket to tighten it, but can’t figure out the proper technique 
to get it tighter.  It seems looser ow!  What am I doing wrong?  Is 
there a proper way to move the adjustor?


What are you, blind?  :-)

Here's what works for me: loosen all three bolts/nuts,
put a box wrench on the toothy bolt and twist to tighten.
While holding it in place then tighten the nut on the
other end of the bolt, _without_ moving the toothy bolt
head at all.  Then tighten the other two bolts/nuts.

This assumes your toothed bolt has enough travel left
to attain a proper tightness, and that the teeth aren't
damaged.

If you don't have three tightenable bolts it won't
stay tight.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] Water pump or thermostat?

[Curt Raymond]

Sunday morn we took my 78 240D to breakfast, then ran home for a minute. As it 
was cold out I left the car running while I ran into the house. When I got back 
to the car maybe two minutes later the temp gauge was not quite pegged but 
definetly sitting at nearly the top of the swing. I ran it to the end of the 
street to see if moving would bring it down but it didn't. The belt to the 
water pump is in place and not burnt or loose. The coolant level is normal, 
there are no untoward noises.

So I'm thinking its probably either the waterpump or thermostat. The question 
is how do I rule one out without replacing one? The waterpump looks like a bear 
as the AC compressor bracket is in the way. It could of course be the gauge. 
That'll be my first thing to test. Any other ideas?

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Dan Penoff]

That's what happened on my 82 SD as well.  It was the lower fitting and it was 
goobered up when I took it off.

I wrapped a few feet of teflon tape around it and it finally stopped leaking.

Dan

 
On Mar 7, 2012, at 9:41 PM, David & Kristin Gilmore wrote:

> At 05:18 PM 3/7/2012, Mitch Haley wrote:
>> Use two wrenches on the cooler lines. One to turn the nut and the other to 
>> hold the fitting on the filter housing or especially radiator steady. 
>> Situate the wrenches so that you can loosen the nut by squeezing the two 
>> wrenches together, then you won't put any twisting action on the fitting 
>> that isn't supposed to move. Last thing you want to do is twist the fitting 
>> out of the radiator.
> 
> I remember doing the counter holding and penetrating oil tricks on the 
> oil cooler lines on my 83 SD and still the cooler fitting was messed up when 
> the hose coupling finally came off.  Appeared to be galvanic corrosion 
> between the aluminum fitting and the steel hose coupling - sort of lumpy crud 
> that when removed showed the fitting to be badly pitted.  I couldn't get it 
> to not seep oil at the lower cooler connection.  I bought a  second hand oil 
> cooler by mail and found the lower fitting corroded in the same way.  Salt 
> spray I guess.  Finally just slathered JB Weld on what was left of the 
> threads of the original cooler fitting and that stopped the leak.  (And now I 
> have a spare cooler for next time.)
> 
> 
> Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV
> 
> 
> Those  who demand judicial diversity have implicitly given up on the rule 
> of law.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[David & Kristin Gilmore]

At 05:18 PM 3/7/2012, Mitch Haley wrote:
Use two wrenches on the cooler lines. One to turn the nut and the 
other to hold the fitting on the filter housing or especially 
radiator steady. Situate the wrenches so that you can loosen the nut 
by squeezing the two wrenches together, then you won't put any 
twisting action on the fitting that isn't supposed to move. Last 
thing you want to do is twist the fitting out of the radiator.


 I remember doing the counter holding and penetrating oil tricks 
on the oil cooler lines on my 83 SD and still the cooler fitting was 
messed up when the hose coupling finally came off.  Appeared to be 
galvanic corrosion between the aluminum fitting and the steel hose 
coupling - sort of lumpy crud that when removed showed the fitting to 
be badly pitted.  I couldn't get it to not seep oil at the lower 
cooler connection.  I bought a  second hand oil cooler by mail and 
found the lower fitting corroded in the same way.  Salt spray I 
guess.  Finally just slathered JB Weld on what was left of the 
threads of the original cooler fitting and that stopped the 
leak.  (And now I have a spare cooler for next time.)



 Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV


 Those  who demand judicial diversity have implicitly given up 
on the rule of law.




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[MBZ] '77 240D alternator belt adjustment woes

[Kevin Kraly]

I fought with the thing for nearly 3 hours with no success!  I got the bolts 
loose, tried to move the adjustor bolt with the teeth that slide the bracket to 
tighten it, but can’t figure out the proper technique to get it tighter.  It 
seems looser ow!  What am I doing wrong?  Is there a proper way to move the 
adjustor?

TIA,

Kevin in Hillsboo, Oregon
1977 240D 315Kmi, Liesel the Diesel
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Question

[Fmiser]

> Rick Knoble wrote:

> Is it possible for glow plugs to ohm out okay and still be bad?
> Perhaps shorted by carbon or something?

Yes. But a typical ohm meter is not very accurate at those
ranges.  Much better is to measure the current flow.

I use an old-fashioned automotive ammeter.  The ones that
display -30,0,+30. I put 12AWG wire leads on it.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the
connector for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow
plug in this connector, so I clip on meter lead to the fused
side of the big, screw-in fuse and then touch each contact,
one at a time. The socket has pin numbers molded into it, and
these numbers correspond to the cylinder number.

This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.

If the plug is bad, the current will be less.

If the wire or connectors are in poor shape, the current will
be less.

If the supply voltage is low, the current will be less.

--  Philip, who feels like he's repeating himself

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Dieselhead]

Start soaking the nuts at the oil cooler 
yesterday or the day before.  If you can clean 
off any external oil, and are brave, a short 
application of flame wrench on the nuts maybe the 
trick that is needed to prevent ruining the oil 
cooler.


One other trick is to saw off the ferrules, and 
take off the old hose and replace just the hose. 
(new hose clamps)  That way you don't have to try 
to separate the steel nuts off the aluminum oil 
cooler threads.
The problem is corrosion of dissimilar metals is 
close to a weld, but breaks down readily when 
heated red hot or close to red.  ~1000º



I think I had to take loose the motor mount and 
jack up/support the engine when I did it.  Seems 
like I took off the motor mount.


have lots of smurf gloves available.




Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler lines
and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.

Thanks In Advance,

Rick




 			  		 
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[MBZ] The invisible mercedes

[Rolf]

Pretty cool marketing stunt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIGzpi9lCck&feature=related 



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Re: [MBZ] Hit a deer....need a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my83 300d.

[Michael Canfield]

Yep, just the glass.  Got real lucky.  We were going slow.

Mike
On Mar 7, 2012 8:31 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

> Is that all - just a headlight?  You were lucky.  "My" deer in '96 took
> out, LF headlight, fender and door, plus significant damage to hood on my
> '91 350SDL.
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message - From: "Michael Canfield"  >
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 5:44 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] Hit a deerneed a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for
> my83 300d.
>
>
>  Hit a deerneed a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my 83 300d.
>> Anyone have one for sale?  How about you Rusty?  How much for a new one?
>> Thanks, Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Hit a deer....need a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my83 300d.

[WILTON]

Is that all - just a headlight?  You were lucky.  "My" deer in '96 took out, 
LF headlight, fender and door, plus significant damage to hood on my '91 
350SDL.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Canfield" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 5:44 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Hit a deerneed a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for 
my83 300d.




Hit a deerneed a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my 83 300d.
Anyone have one for sale?  How about you Rusty?  How much for a new one?
Thanks, Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Question

[Dieselhead]

Yes, (rare) and it is also possible they are not getting juice from 
the relay/bad fuse.




 Hi All,

Is it possible for glow plugs to ohm out okay and still be bad?
Perhaps shorted by carbon or something?

Rick



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[MBZ] Hit a deer....need a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my 83 300d.

[Michael Canfield]

Hit a deerneed a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my 83 300d.
Anyone have one for sale?  How about you Rusty?  How much for a new one?
Thanks, Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Mitch Haley]

Use two wrenches on the cooler lines. One to turn the nut and the other to hold 
the fitting on the filter housing or especially radiator steady. Situate the 
wrenches so that you can loosen the nut by squeezing the two wrenches together, 
then you won't put any twisting action on the fitting that isn't supposed to 
move. Last thing you want to do is twist the fitting out of the radiator.


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Dan Penoff]

It's been a long time since I've done this job (thank goodness!) but I do 
recall getting a crows foot 22mm (?) wrench, as the clearance for the line 
fittings is really small.  And be really, really careful on the oil cooler 
fittings, as they are really easy to cross thread and munge up.

Don't ask me how I know...

Dan


On Mar 7, 2012, at 5:01 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:

> Soak the fittings overnight in penetrating oil to make the lines easier to 
> crack.   
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Rick Knoble 
> Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 13:59:43 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler lines
> and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.
> 
> Thanks In Advance,
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Andrew Strasfogel]

Soak the fittings overnight in penetrating oil to make the lines easier to 
crack.   
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Rick Knoble 
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 13:59:43 
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines


Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler lines
and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.

Thanks In Advance,

Rick




  
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[MBZ] Oil Cooler Lines

[Rick Knoble]

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to share on changing oil cooler lines
and motor mounts on a W123? That is tomorrows project.

Thanks In Advance,

Rick




  
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[MBZ] Glow Plug Question

[Rick Knoble]

 Hi All,

Is it possible for glow plugs to ohm out okay and still be bad?
Perhaps shorted by carbon or something?

Rick
  
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[MBZ] Lubro Moly Valve Clean

[glenn brown]

2nd attempt at posting this:
Has anyone on the list used Lubro Moly Valve Clean in their W123 diesel?  
Before replacing the injectors in #4 & 5 cylinders, as these were the ones 
which showed low compression in the compression test which was an attempt to 
get to the cause of the serious smoking upon cold startup, I thought I might 
try this stuff.  TIA
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
  
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Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?

[Curt Raymond]

I suspect if they plugged in the standard block heater as soon as they got home 
it'd keep the engine warm enough to start. Heating it from -40F might be a 
stretch...

IIRC Webasto makes a diesel fired heater that can be activated from a keyfob. 
I've often thought thats the absolute best solution for serious cold weather.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 09:49:52 -0800
From: clay monroe 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?
Message-ID: <4e25688e-930b-48ea-a289-7544245ef...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hmmm.  Tech university, so should have access to 00 cables.  100 year old homes 
with screw in fuses.  Wonder how well the boys are able to pull wire from a 
plug to the street 100 feet away

clay



On Mar 7, 2012, at 7:47 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

> The single 400w block heater works dandy at -20F on a 616 engine, I expect a 
> 60x would be fine at -40F.
> If it wasn't you could go to the "Fairbanks Package" which includes a battery 
> heater and coolant heater. I think the coolant heater is 1000w, the battery 
> heater isn't that much but at that point you'll want to be careful what size 
> extension cord you use.
> 
> -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] I acquired a tire balancer

[WILTON]

I not only enjoy innovation, I enjoy hearing about it, too.

ATTABOY!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Gerry Archer" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 2:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I acquired a tire balancer



When I had four family Beetles, I bought a Beetle hub, replaced the
bearing grease with light oil, left out the seal, chucked the hub in a 
vice,

mounted a tire that needed balancing. gave the wheel a slow spin, and did
something else while it was finding the heavy spot.  Then I put a weight
opposite the heavy spot, spun again, and did something else.  Kept this
up until wheel would stop at various places.  In time I learned which size
weight was needed by how fast the wheel stopped.
Never had to do one over, never had any tire related vibration that wasn't
a defect in the tire.  Beetles didn't weigh much.  Don't know if this 
would

work with heavier cars.
Gerry

From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
I acquired a coats computer spin balancer.  Just tried it out and it works 
great, fast and easy.  I already had a tire machine so I ordered all my 
tires much cheaper and mounted them myself and used a bubble balancer, but 
this will work much better.  It ads up paying $10 a wheel to balance with 
the amount of cars I have, plus I prefer to do it myself.  Now all I  need 
is an alignment machine then I will be all set.


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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1424 / Virus Database: 2113/4855 - Release Date: 03/06/12




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Re: [MBZ] How to delete your Google Browsing History before newpolicy

[Gerry Archer]

Do you mean using Ixquick.com instead of Google?  If not, how
do you do private browsing?
Thanks,
Gerry (not a computer pro)

From: "Rolf" 
If you aren't using private browsing to hide your more delicate 
searches, I don't know what to say.


-Rolf

On 3/1/2012 1:26 PM, Greg Fiorentino wrote:

I'm sure many of you geeks are already aware of this:



http://www.digitaljournal.com/article/320137#ixzz1nissqAwZ



Greg



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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1424 / Virus Database: 2113/4856 - Release Date: 03/07/12



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Re: [MBZ] source for small electric motors?

[Walt Zarnoch]

Try a hair dryer if it's a metal squirrel cage,  sometimes it just
needs a little heat.

Walt

On Wed, Mar 7, 2012 at 1:12 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> On Wed, Mar 7, 2012, at 11:53 AM, Randy Bennell wrote:
>
>> Any chance it is repairable?
>> Electric motor shop might fix the one you have.
>> Might not be any less expensive than a new one but if there is anything
>> unique about mounting etc, then it might be worth looking into.
>
> Mounting does not look unique, but I do want to try to resurrect it after my 
> success doing the same with blowers in my W116 and W123.
>
> I need to figure out how to press the squirrel fan off of the shaft; I 
> loosened the lock screw on the fan collar but it still won't budge.  May try 
> the ATF/acetone trick.
>
> Can motor shops generally balance squirrel fans as well?  There is one that 
> seems to need it.
>
> Allan
>
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Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Mar 7, 2012 5:53 AM, "Dieselhead"
>  The engine bay is long enough to
> hold the dual cam 6 cyl gasser, so the
> length of the 603 will fit.
>

The M110 was a tight squeeze front-to-back in my Euro 280SLC.  Not really
an optimal situation for maintenance.

As long as we're dreaming about soft-top engine swaps, I want a 124 cabrio
with the 500E engine.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] source for small electric motors?

[Allan Streib]

On Wed, Mar 7, 2012, at 11:53 AM, Randy Bennell wrote:

> Any chance it is repairable?
> Electric motor shop might fix the one you have.
> Might not be any less expensive than a new one but if there is anything 
> unique about mounting etc, then it might be worth looking into.

Mounting does not look unique, but I do want to try to resurrect it after my 
success doing the same with blowers in my W116 and W123.

I need to figure out how to press the squirrel fan off of the shaft; I loosened 
the lock screw on the fan collar but it still won't budge.  May try the 
ATF/acetone trick. 

Can motor shops generally balance squirrel fans as well?  There is one that 
seems to need it.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] source for small electric motors?

[Randy Bennell]

On 06/03/2012 8:53 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

One of the blower motors in the Viking range hood is dead.  It is made
by Emerson, model F33CYBFD2225.

I can't find this exact model listed online.  Anyone know of a good
source for compatible replacements?  Specs are 1/25 HP, 1550 RPM, 1.7A,
115 V, 3 3/8" diameter.

Allan




Any chance it is repairable?
Electric motor shop might fix the one you have.
Might not be any less expensive than a new one but if there is anything 
unique about mounting etc, then it might be worth looking into.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?

[clay monroe]

Hmmm.  Tech university, so should have access to 00 cables.  100 year old homes 
with screw in fuses.  Wonder how well the boys are able to pull wire from a 
plug to the street 100 feet away

clay



On Mar 7, 2012, at 7:47 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

> The single 400w block heater works dandy at -20F on a 616 engine, I expect a 
> 60x would be fine at -40F.
> If it wasn't you could go to the "Fairbanks Package" which includes a battery 
> heater and coolant heater. I think the coolant heater is 1000w, the battery 
> heater isn't that much but at that point you'll want to be careful what size 
> extension cord you use.
> 
> -Curt
> 
> Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 21:39:12 -0600
> From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
> 
> If a single block heater can't keep up, you can add a second I am pretty sure.
> 
> 
>> BTDT re SDL.  No need for a yacht for me.  Maybe the oldest could 
>> use this.  Butte, MT is real cold most of the year, and not sure a 
>> block heater would do much at -40.   He needs to do the costco run 
>> for provisions.  Costco being 120 miles away, and lots of bulk food. 
>> Haul two or three other big boys to shop.  Might work.
>> 
>> clay
> 
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Re: [MBZ] source for small electric motors?

[Mitch Haley]

I saw a huge Vulcan at the university surplus Monday, it was the grungiest thing 
I've ever seen. 10 or 12 huge burners in two rows, two ovens or warming boxes 
below, no hood. They wanted $300 for it. Tuesday was public sale day (it's 
reserved for University employees most of the week), and it was gone by the time 
I got there in the afternoon. It probably had over $300 worth of stainless scrap 
and copper tubing in it.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?

[Curt Raymond]

The single 400w block heater works dandy at -20F on a 616 engine, I expect a 
60x would be fine at -40F.
If it wasn't you could go to the "Fairbanks Package" which includes a battery 
heater and coolant heater. I think the coolant heater is 1000w, the battery 
heater isn't that much but at that point you'll want to be careful what size 
extension cord you use.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 21:39:12 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

If a single block heater can't keep up, you can add a second I am pretty sure.


>BTDT re SDL.  No need for a yacht for me.  Maybe the oldest could 
>use this.  Butte, MT is real cold most of the year, and not sure a 
>block heater would do much at -40.   He needs to do the costco run 
>for provisions.  Costco being 120 miles away, and lots of bulk food. 
>Haul two or three other big boys to shop.  Might work.
>
>clay

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Re: [MBZ] source for small electric motors?

[Dan Penoff]

While electric motors are standardized on NEMA standards, things like mounting 
can be very unique.

In a situation like this you're best to contact Viking and see what they have 
available.

After all, you're still way ahead of the curve as far as what the stuff cost 
you versus buying it new or commercially...

Dan

On Mar 7, 2012, at 10:08 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> Actually what I think they will tell me is it's $250.
> 
> AO Smith stock number 30 or 31 looks like it would work.  It's slightly 
> higher current draw but otherwise same specs.
> 
> http://www.emotorpro.com/1-25-hp-115-volt-1550-rpm-a-o-smith-blower-motor-31.aspx
> 
> How is rotation specified?  From the perspective of looking at the shaft end?
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 7, 2012, at 06:32 AM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
>> I second surpluscenter
>> 
>> allelectronics.com sometimes has them as well.
>> 
>> I'd honestly call viking though, worst case they tell you it's NLA.
>> 
>> Walt
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] I acquired a tire balancer

[Allan Streib]

This balances the wheel as a 2-dimensional disc. The real spin
balancers also balance axially, e.g. you might need weight on the
inside or outside of the rim. Beetle tires were really narrow as I
recall; with today's wide profile tires I think that is more important
than it used to be.

On Wed, Mar 7, 2012, at 02:41 AM, Gerry Archer wrote:
> When I had four family Beetles, I bought a Beetle hub, replaced the
> bearing grease with light oil, left out the seal, chucked the hub in a
> vice, mounted a tire that needed balancing. gave the wheel a slow
> spin, and did something else while it was finding the heavy spot. Then
> I put a weight opposite the heavy spot, spun again, and did something
> else. Kept this up until wheel would stop at various places. In time I
> learned which size weight was needed by how fast the wheel stopped.
> Never had to do one over, never had any tire related vibration that
> wasn't a defect in the tire. Beetles didn't weigh much. Don't know if
> this would work with heavier cars. Gerry
>

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Re: [MBZ] source for small electric motors?

[Allan Streib]

Actually what I think they will tell me is it's $250.

AO Smith stock number 30 or 31 looks like it would work.  It's slightly higher 
current draw but otherwise same specs.

http://www.emotorpro.com/1-25-hp-115-volt-1550-rpm-a-o-smith-blower-motor-31.aspx

How is rotation specified?  From the perspective of looking at the shaft end?

Allan


On Wed, Mar 7, 2012, at 06:32 AM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
> I second surpluscenter
> 
> allelectronics.com sometimes has them as well.
> 
> I'd honestly call viking though, worst case they tell you it's NLA.
> 
> Walt
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?

[Dieselhead]

I would choose a 602 turbo.  (unless I had the 603)  However if a 602 
fits, a 603 will fit.  both are the same height, and that is the 
constraint.   The engine bay is long enough to hold the dual cam 6 
cyl gasser, so the length of the 603 will fit.



I want to say the only conversion I have seen with with the 602...

-Rolf

On 3/6/2012 10:33 PM, OK Don wrote:

When I measured the 603 in my SDL, and the engine compartment of the SLC
(with the engine out), I figured the 603 would fit. YMMV.

On Tue, Mar 6, 2012 at 9:08 PM, Dieselhead<126die...@gmail.com>  wrote:


I thought we determined that there were pictures of OM 603s under the
hoods of 107s without hacking the hood.

That SDL looks so nice, I'd fix or put an engine in it.




  But it will not fit under the hood of a w107.  would drop that into this

thing

http://seattle.craigslist.org/**oly/ctd/2853571169.html



On Mar 6, 2012, at 4:29 PM, dbl...@comcast.net wrote:

   Just saw this, no affiliation;


http://seattle.craigslist.org/**see/pts/2876350630.html

  David
  Lynnwood, Wa.
  '77 240d UUgly Daily Driver
  '85 190e Daughter's, wish it was a D
  Some Volvos

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http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/


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http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] I acquired a tire balancer

[Jim Cathey]

I acquired a coats computer spin balancer.  Just tried it out and it 
works

great, fast and easy.  I already had a tire machine


Last auction I went to had two Coats tire machines and a Mays.
The Mays was physically smaller, older, and might have been
able to do larger tires.  (Unimog?)  The ratty Coats went
for $400, and the Mays for more than that.  Skunked again!
At least I got a snowblower.  (They had twelve, I eventually
got the ugliest one.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Anyone need a #22 head?

[Rolf]

I want to say the only conversion I have seen with with the 602...

-Rolf

On 3/6/2012 10:33 PM, OK Don wrote:

When I measured the 603 in my SDL, and the engine compartment of the SLC
(with the engine out), I figured the 603 would fit. YMMV.

On Tue, Mar 6, 2012 at 9:08 PM, Dieselhead<126die...@gmail.com>  wrote:


I thought we determined that there were pictures of OM 603s under the
hoods of 107s without hacking the hood.

That SDL looks so nice, I'd fix or put an engine in it.




  But it will not fit under the hood of a w107.  would drop that into this

thing

http://seattle.craigslist.org/**oly/ctd/2853571169.html



On Mar 6, 2012, at 4:29 PM, dbl...@comcast.net wrote:

   Just saw this, no affiliation;

  
http://seattle.craigslist.org/**see/pts/2876350630.html

  David
  Lynnwood, Wa.
  '77 240d UUgly Daily Driver
  '85 190e Daughter's, wish it was a D
  Some Volvos

  __**_
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  To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] How to delete your Google Browsing History before new policy

[Rolf]

If you aren't using private browsing to hide your more delicate 
searches, I don't know what to say.


-Rolf

On 3/1/2012 1:26 PM, Greg Fiorentino wrote:

I'm sure many of you geeks are already aware of this:



http://www.digitaljournal.com/article/320137#ixzz1nissqAwZ



Greg



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Re: [MBZ] source for small electric motors?

[Walt Zarnoch]

I second surpluscenter

allelectronics.com sometimes has them as well.

I'd honestly call viking though, worst case they tell you it's NLA.

Walt

On Tue, Mar 6, 2012 at 10:08 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> grainger.com
>
> Surpluscenter.com
>
>
>
>> One of the blower motors in the Viking range hood is dead.  It is made
>> by Emerson, model F33CYBFD2225.
>>
>> I can't find this exact model listed online.  Anyone know of a good
>> source for compatible replacements?  Specs are 1/25 HP, 1550 RPM, 1.7A,
>> 115 V, 3 3/8" diameter.
>>
>> Allan
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] I acquired a tire balancer

[Gerry Archer]

When I had four family Beetles, I bought a Beetle hub, replaced the
bearing grease with light oil, left out the seal, chucked the hub in a vice,
mounted a tire that needed balancing. gave the wheel a slow spin, and did
something else while it was finding the heavy spot.  Then I put a weight
opposite the heavy spot, spun again, and did something else.  Kept this
up until wheel would stop at various places.  In time I learned which size
weight was needed by how fast the wheel stopped.
Never had to do one over, never had any tire related vibration that wasn't
a defect in the tire.  Beetles didn't weigh much.  Don't know if this would
work with heavier cars.
Gerry

From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
I acquired a coats computer spin balancer.  Just tried it out and it works 
great, fast and easy.  I already had a tire machine so I ordered all my 
tires much cheaper and mounted them myself and used a bubble balancer, but 
this will work much better.  It ads up paying $10 a wheel to balance with 
the amount of cars I have, plus I prefer to do it myself.  Now all I  need 
is an alignment machine then I will be all set.


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