Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I had a lot of sucess with Vice-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter. Amazon carries it for $10.38. I had the appropriate sized Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter On 12/8/2013 12:44 PM, Larry T wrote: Hi Gang - I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses between the caliper and chassis). I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need to change the fluid... Thanks! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Recommended Procedure for Wheel Bearings
Wish I could take credit for spoting it but the very, very first thing in the pdf document states the wheel bearing end play as 0.01 - 0.02. Boy I love Mercedes Manuals, so well indexed and easy to reference. It also doesn't give a unit of measure, but hey, were not building the Hubble Space Telescope. On 3/11/2013 9:14 PM, Gerry Archer wrote: From: Alan Clarke alanc...@pacbell.net I know the recommended procedure people are following for setting front wheel bearing is to use a dial indicator and, with the base on the rotor measure the end play of the spindle. People are recommending half a notch if one's dial indicator is measuring thousands. My question is that I have a 1977-1988 Mercedes Service Manual for Chassis and Body Series 123. In section 33.3-300/2 it states : 6 Place tester on front wheel hub and set dial gauge to approx. 2 mm pre-load. 7 Check end play of wheel hub by pulling and pushing on flange. Two millimeters is 0.078 that's a lot of rattle room. If you go to this link, at the bottom there is a pdf file which is a copy of the manual I am referring to. Step 6 pg 266, What gives??? Can't be right. 0.00078 would be within the recommended range of 4 to 8 ten thousands. (0004 to 0008). If I'm in a hurry I tighten the nut while turning the wheel until the bearing is locked. Then I back it off one third turn and whack the spindle with a hammer to release the bearing. If not in a hurry I use a cheap micrometer that is graduated in thousandths of an inch and keep the needle between two adjacent thousandths marks while pulling the wheel. Never had a bearing run hot. Gerry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Recommended Procedure for Wheel Bearings
I know the recommended procedure people are following for setting front wheel bearing is to use a dial indicator and, with the base on the rotor measure the end play of the spindle. People are recommending half a notch if one's dial indicator is measuring thousands. My question is that I have a 1977-1988 Mercedes Service Manual for Chassis and Body Series 123. In section 33.3-300/2 it states : 6 Place tester on front wheel hub and set dial gauge to approx. 2 mm pre-load. 7 Check end play of wheel hub by pulling and pushing on flange. Two millimeters is 0.078 that's a lot of rattle room. If you go to this link, at the bottom there is a pdf file which is a copy of the manual I am referring to. Step 6 pg 266, What gives??? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Recommended Procedure for Wheel Bearings II
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1590160-front-wheel-bearing-removal.html (Here's the link I forgot) I know the recommended procedure people are following for setting front wheel bearing is to use a dial indicator and, with the base on the rotor measure the end play of the spindle. People are recommending half a notch if one's dial indicator is measuring thousands. My question is that I have a 1977-1988 Mercedes Service Manual for Chassis and Body Series 123. In section 33.3-300/2 it states : 6 Place tester on front wheel hub and set dial gauge to approx. 2 mm pre-load. 7 Check end play of wheel hub by pulling and pushing on flange. Two millimeters is 0.078 that's a lot of rattle room. If you go to the link, at the bottom there is a pdf file which is a copy of the manual I am referring to. Step 6 pg 266, What gives??? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Recommended Procedure for Wheel Bearings II
Yes that makes sense. They're tell the technician not to have the dial indicator just barely touching the spindle. Actually 2 mm is just barely touching but i guess it's enough. If that's all there is too it, seem like a strange direction on how to use a tool when a lot of knowledge is presumed by these manuals. On 3/11/2013 9:09 PM, Dieselhead wrote: THey are saying to depress the dial indicator 2 mm when attaching, so there is room for it to go up or down. IF you don't do this and the dial indicator is bottomed out against the rotor, you can get a false reading. After the preload, you zero the dial, and then take your measurement. The 2 mm is to more or less put the dial indicator into center of scale. the reading you want is 0.01 to 0.02 mm that is about half a thousandth I guess. (.00039 to .00078) http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1590160-front-wheel-bearing-removal.html (Here's the link I forgot) I know the recommended procedure people are following for setting front wheel bearing is to use a dial indicator and, with the base on the rotor measure the end play of the spindle. People are recommending half a notch if one's dial indicator is measuring thousands. My question is that I have a 1977-1988 Mercedes Service Manual for Chassis and Body Series 123. In section 33.3-300/2 it states : 6 Place tester on front wheel hub and set dial gauge to approx. 2 mm pre-load. 7 Check end play of wheel hub by pulling and pushing on flange. Two millimeters is 0.078 that's a lot of rattle room. If you go to the link, at the bottom there is a pdf file which is a copy of the manual I am referring to. Step 6 pg 266, What gives??? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Recommended Procedure for Wheel Bearings
BTW I whacked the spindle with a nylon dead blow hammer. My guess was that was enough brutality or do Mercedes like it rough On 3/11/2013 9:14 PM, Gerry Archer wrote: From: Alan Clarke alanc...@pacbell.net I know the recommended procedure people are following for setting front wheel bearing is to use a dial indicator and, with the base on the rotor measure the end play of the spindle. People are recommending half a notch if one's dial indicator is measuring thousands. My question is that I have a 1977-1988 Mercedes Service Manual for Chassis and Body Series 123. In section 33.3-300/2 it states : 6 Place tester on front wheel hub and set dial gauge to approx. 2 mm pre-load. 7 Check end play of wheel hub by pulling and pushing on flange. Two millimeters is 0.078 that's a lot of rattle room. If you go to this link, at the bottom there is a pdf file which is a copy of the manual I am referring to. Step 6 pg 266, What gives??? Can't be right. 0.00078 would be within the recommended range of 4 to 8 ten thousands. (0004 to 0008). If I'm in a hurry I tighten the nut while turning the wheel until the bearing is locked. Then I back it off one third turn and whack the spindle with a hammer to release the bearing. If not in a hurry I use a cheap micrometer that is graduated in thousandths of an inch and keep the needle between two adjacent thousandths marks while pulling the wheel. Never had a bearing run hot. Gerry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] A request of advise on Rebuilding Calipers
Haynes is usually pretty good but this is a Mercedes and good information is hard to come by including Haynes. They make reference to turn the pistons so the recesses are at a 20 degree angle from the bottom of the caliper. First they haven't told me if they are referring to an ATE or Bendix caliper and second I don't know what they are referring to any way. They also make reference to making sure the piston is at least 0.004 above the heat shield and, again, I'm not sure which brand caliper they are talking about but for that matter doesn't the piston move and unless the heat shield is moving also, how does it stay at 0.004. I'm trying to decide whether it is worth doing this or just buying remand ones. Certainly if I opened them up and saw a lot of scoring of pitting I would get remand calipers. Basically just asking for advise on the difficulty in rebuilding calipers and specifically the above instructions which aren't clear to me. Of course I haven't opened the calipers up yet but I'm not sure if this lack of clarity is just a taste of things to come. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] A request of advise on Rebuilding Calipers
Thanks, I will give it a shot. Alan 1985 Turbo Peter Frederick wrote: The top edge of the piston is not flat, it has a section machined away. The heat shield has a circular slot cut in it to allow raised section of the piston to edge to protrude through it. If you don't set it the way the book says, the brakes squeal. Loudly. Doesn't matter which caliper you have, they all have the same type of piston. Take a look at them before you take the pistons out, it will be obvious. In the case of all the ones I've rebuilt, the heat shield only fits one way, and you can figure out how the piston has to go to fit through it. It is VERY difficult to rotate the pistons after installation without the special tool made for the purpose. Do not, under any circumstances, use something like vise grips or Channel-locks to rotate the pistons, as burrs on the piston WILL cause it to stick in the bore. Line them up before pressing them in place. there is some room for minor deviation from the correct angle. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] BAT 240D
I second that... what's a BAT? Sent by SAA (Society Against Acronyms) On 11/30/2012 9:26 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What's BAT? On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 10:34 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote: Everybody see the pristine 240D on BAT today? Nice, especially since it's a 4 speed. Dan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] link to buymbpart
Why the difference, I guess I'm asking what your experiences have been? Alan 85 turbo On 10/31/2012 4:44 AM, Rick Knoble wrote: I would add that you will get much more satisfaction, and much better pricing, if you call direct instead of ordering on the web. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Oct 30, 2012, at 11:07 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: You are correct. It is buyMBparts.biz Is the link to buymbpart incorrect on thehttp://www.okiebenz.com/parts/ page. Shouldn't it be http://www.buymbparts.biz/ nothttp://www.buymbparts.com/... alan 85 turbo ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Amsoil ATF in an older transmission
Doesn't doing several changes defeat the purpose of going to synthetic, namely extended fluid change. BTW, when I first got my vehicle I stocked up on both Amzoil for the engine as well as this transmission fluid which I am now talking about using. This isn't cheap stuff but on the other hand it's cheaper than transmission repair down the road. On 10/27/2012 7:52 AM, Brian Toscano wrote: when I changed my transmission over to Mobil synthetic ATF it came out dirty the first several times - lots of black stuff in the fluid. Not chunks, but just not clear. I guess it came from the bands. Similar with the differential. On two diesel trucks I owned, changing to synthetic caused one to develop a rear main leak while the other was fine. I would say YMMV. On Fri, Oct 26, 2012 at 4:55 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote: I would not fear using Synth in an old transmission. I have used it in both Gump and Frosch with no troubles or leakage. It does tend to clean up the garbage inside the transmission, so you do a short run for the first fill. Also used it in standard street cars 10-20 years old. When you change the fluid, swap in a fresh filter and the seal. No leaks. I have only used Mobil 1, so no idea if Amsoil is any less of a product, but I would doubt. Drain the TC when you do the fluid so you have a true clean system. clay On Oct 25, 2012, at 8:34 PM, Alan Clarke wrote: Wanted some advise or thoughts on using Amsoil ATF in my 85 Turbo. It is a synthetic rated as a Dexron II and III replacement. One mechanic I respect thought it was bad idea to use for reasons of causing leaking seals and the like in an older tranny. The tranny has been serviced regularly and has under 150K mile. Another mechanic who works on Mercedes thought it would be OK as long as it was an approved fluid by MBZ for their vehicles. I'm not sure if it's approved or not. Does anyone have any information and or thoughts about the use of synthetic Amsoil ATF in an older 123 Diesel with a 722.315 transmission? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Amsoil ATF in an older transmission
That's another thought. My hope is that 1) I'm not that high mileage, 150K or so and 2) there was a maintenance sticker on the car when I bought it and I talked to the mechanic so I have reason to hope it was well maintained. But, you mentioned getting an analysis done and that is cheaper than changing the fluid on general principle. On 10/27/2012 9:05 AM, Curt Raymond wrote: You work up to longer duration changes, the first couple changes just scrub out all the crud that built up either from using inferior quality stuff or from poor previous maintenance on the previous owner's part. When I first got my '85 190D oil analysis showed high iron levels in the engine oil. After a few changes with Mobil 1 the iron levels went down to normal and stayed there even with 10,000+ mile oil changes. The previous owner swore to me he changed the oil every 5,000 miles but I don't recall any mention of what oil he'd used. I always assume the previous owner was and idiot (well except for the car I bought from Dwight) and maintain it accordingly. -Curt Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 08:21:59 -0700 From: Alan Clarke alanc...@pacbell.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amsoil ATF in an older transmission Message-ID: 508bfc17.1070...@pacbell.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Doesn't doing several changes defeat the purpose of going to synthetic, namely extended fluid change. BTW, when I first got my vehicle I stocked up on both Amzoil for the engine as well as this transmission fluid which I am now talking about using. This isn't cheap stuff but on the other hand it's cheaper than transmission repair down the road. On 10/27/2012 7:52 AM, Brian Toscano wrote: when I changed my transmission over to Mobil synthetic ATF it came out dirty the first several times - lots of black stuff in the fluid. Not chunks, but just not clear. I guess it came from the bands. Similar with the differential. On two diesel trucks I owned, changing to synthetic caused one to develop a rear main leak while the other was fine. I would say YMMV. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Amsoil ATF in an older transmission
My thanks to those that responded. It was confusing because MBZ has a list of recommended fluids. According to Amzoil, who I called, the specification is the Dextron III specification and they say that is the critical thing that the fluid meet, which is what I think you were saying. It is recommended on their website which I think gives them legal liability. Something they don't do, by the way, with the Amzoil that I have been using for the engine: Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel Marine Motor Oil *SAE 15W-40 (AME)*. They do recommend a 5W-30 European Oil so apparently it meets some European spec. He was saying that was possibly meeting an emissions criteria so I'm not going to worry about it. Again, thanks all. On 10/25/2012 10:19 PM, Rick Knoble wrote: On Oct 25, 2012, at 10:34 PM, Alan Clarke alanc...@pacbell.net wrote: Does anyone have any information and or thoughts about the use of synthetic Amsoil ATF in an older 123 Diesel with a 722.315 transmission? This meets the MB spec http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx That is specified here http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_231_1.pdf I use Mobil 1 ATF as it is cheaper. Amsoil makes fine products too. Mobil 1ATF is thought of as an elixer for tired transmissions by some folks. I would expect Amsoil to perform nearly as well, if not as well as Mobil 1. Rick Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Amsoil ATF in an older transmission
Wanted some advise or thoughts on using Amsoil ATF in my 85 Turbo. It is a synthetic rated as a Dexron II and III replacement. One mechanic I respect thought it was bad idea to use for reasons of causing leaking seals and the like in an older tranny. The tranny has been serviced regularly and has under 150K mile. Another mechanic who works on Mercedes thought it would be OK as long as it was an approved fluid by MBZ for their vehicles. I'm not sure if it's approved or not. Does anyone have any information and or thoughts about the use of synthetic Amsoil ATF in an older 123 Diesel with a 722.315 transmission? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Electile Dysfunction
I think it is, at least this year, occurring most often with Republican's... age may be a contributing factor. You could check with Bob Dole. Alan 85 Turbo 300 Luther wrote: Electile Dysfunction: the inability to become aroused over any of the choices for president put forth by either party in the 2008 election year. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Rubber bumper insert 240D
I said to Hell with it and used 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. Alan 85 Turbo 123 MICHAEL ESH wrote: What is the correct way to insert the rubber bumper pad into the bumper on a 1983 240 D. Thanks, Mike in Michigan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards in California and Oregon
I found a right fender in good shape at a Pick and Pull. The problem was getting the thing off of the vehicle. They use some sort of putty on the seam that was impossible to get off. The manual talks about using heat to soften it and I had a small butane blow torch thing but that didn't help. I gave up, a few people followed me and they were unsuccessful also getting the fender off, all bolts had been removed it was just that damn putty. Asked a knowledgeable body shop fellow who just stated that's why we use new ones. Alan 85 300 Turbo Craig McCluskey wrote: I'm going to be driving out there and want to find a W123 hood and right front fender in good condition. Anyone have any suggestions where? Thanks, Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch
I'll bite, what's the harm in turning the engine in the wrong direction... Thanks, Alan Clarke 85 300 Turbo LarryT wrote: Hi Tom, As the engine rotates - and it must *only* be turned in the normal direction of travel, BTW - you'll see the cam lobes turn and alternately open/close the valves. When both of the high parts of the cam over #1 are pointing more or less up, it'll be on TDC - but the scale on the crank is the final authority. Once close, you should be looking to get the mark on the cam aligned with the notch in the cam tower closest to the radiator. But, even if you miss the spot by just a little don't be tempted to turn the engine backwards to the mark - just crank the engine over again and watch the cam until the mark is close. It can be frustrating as often the compression will not allow the engine to stop at the proper point. Just be patient. Once you've done it once it will seem very easy. Good luck -
Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch
Thanks, Alan 85 300 turbo LarryT wrote: It's been 10+ years since I was deep into my 240D engine, but IIRC, turning it backwards can also cause the old style (the ones with the clip) chain connectors to come apart. But I believe the primary reason is the chain jumping a tooth. While it may seem unlikely, it's actually pretty easy if the chain is stretched or a tooth is damaged. Again, this is from memory going back to '95 - but, the timing device on the end of the IP that is turned by the TC has a fairly tight fit between the chain and block - turning the engine backwards can cause the chain to bunch up jam in the tight confines if the slack Jim C mentioned is not taken up carefully. A link can move to the next tooth without the technician realizing it. The above was observed while working on my 78 240D (W123) and it may not apply to other engines. Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Alan Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:55 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch I'll bite, what's the harm in turning the engine in the wrong direction... Thanks, Alan Clarke 85 300 Turbo LarryT wrote: Hi Tom, As the engine rotates - and it must *only* be turned in the normal direction of travel, BTW - you'll see the cam lobes turn and alternately open/close the valves. When both of the high parts of the cam over #1 are pointing more or less up, it'll be on TDC - but the scale on the crank is the final authority. Once close, you should be looking to get the mark on the cam aligned with the notch in the cam tower closest to the radiator. But, even if you miss the spot by just a little don't be tempted to turn the engine backwards to the mark - just crank the engine over again and watch the cam until the mark is close. It can be frustrating as often the compression will not allow the engine to stop at the proper point. Just be patient. Once you've done it once it will seem very easy. Good luck - ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.27/517 - Release Date: 11/3/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] $40 dollar air filters; I mean... come oooooon!
The air filter used on my 85 turbo w/ trap oxidizer is $40. The trap oxidizer was changed to a catalytic converter, any thought on junkyarding the air filter housing for a model that uses the $16 filter??? Alan Clarke 85 300 turbo
Re: [MBZ] $40 dollar air filters; I mean... come oooooon!
I probably was something less than clear but, is the Turbo different between between the trap oxidizer, non- trap oxidizer models? They sure change the shape/cost of the air filter between the California trap oxidizer turbo version, and turbo model outside California without a trap oxidizer. My guess was that they wanted a bigger filter to make for cleaner air (it measures approx 81/4 wide by 7 tall) perhaps to protect the oxidizer but that is pure speculation. Alan Clarke 85 Turbo Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Im not sure it would work since the turbo etc is different. Sorry. Alan Clarke wrote: The air filter used on my 85 turbo w/ trap oxidizer is $40. The trap oxidizer was changed to a catalytic converter, any thought on junkyarding the air filter housing for a model that uses the $16 filter??? Alan Clarke 85 300 turbo ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] $40 dollar air filters; I mean... come oooooon!
I had noticed that Rusty's retail price was $75. That would be a bit of sticker shock for someone who took their car into a shop that charged retail. I guess I was resigned since I order the air cleaner but I sure appreciate your input as to the impracticality of making the attempt. There are not Fram or other replacement brands out there and if I were going to pick a reason as to why the cost was high, that would be my pick; lack of competition. For now I'll just be glad I am not replacing window seals. Thanks, Alan Clarke 85 turbo ernest breakfield wrote: don't feel bad; some local shops are getting $75 for the A/F for the '85 California 300D. allegedly it's because they're rarer enough that the supply/demand pushes the price far up beyond what the standard W123 goes for. (for an example of this at work, try pricing the window seals for a W123 Coupe!) changing to use the standard setup would probably involve changing the entire manifold set, as they're different to allow room for the Trap Oxidizer. cheers! e
