Re: [MBZ] slow DNS
On Aug 19, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Mitch Haley wrote: Dave Cavner wrote: namebench is an open source utility to help you locate the fastest DNS servers for your area. Works with WIN, Mac and Unix. https://code.google.com/p/namebench/ Reran it at 10pm, and ATT's DNS is a good bit of my trouble. ATT averaged 63ms, with a maximum of...wait for it...1984ms. Mitch. Mitch, At best, it's useful as a rough guide. I should have included a disclaimer that the software hasn't been updated in years to include newer DNS services or expanded IP ranges for Google, PayPal, etc. so you will see some error messages that aren't valid. Also, from the namebench FAQ: Why do I get different results each time I run namebench. The first run is the one that is most likely to be accurate. The more times to run namebench, the more likely you are to be repeating the same queries over and over again. This will skew your results toward the closest nameserver to you, rather than the one most likely to have your requests cached during normal operations Dave '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] slow DNS
namebench is an open source utility to help you locate the fastest DNS servers for your area. Works with WIN, Mac and Unix. https://code.google.com/p/namebench/ Dave '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) On Aug 18, 2013, at 5:44 PM, Benz Hogs wrote: If this is a stationary desktop, this will work. If you use a laptop and go from work network to home, to the coffee house, to a hotel, it will be more complicated than listed below. In Windoze, open a command prompt and type ipconfig/all and find the section Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection. Within this you will need: IPv4 Address Default Gateway Open the Network and Sharing Center (under Control Panel) and hit Change adapter settings. Right click on the connection Local Area Connection and click properties. Select the TCP/IPv4 line and hit properties. Change the bullet to Use the following IP Address and enter the above information. Subnet mask is 255.255.255.0 Below the first 3, change to Use the following DNS server addresses and enter the nameserver numbers Craig gave below. Click OK. Luther KB5QHUForest Park, IL '98 ML320 Max (169,xxx mi) On 8/18/2013 6:49 PM, Craig wrote: Can you not tell your computer to use nameserver 208.67.222.222 # resolver1.opendns.com nameserver 208.67.220.220 # resolver2.opendns.com ? In Linux, all I do is change /etc/resolv.conf and I'm using different name servers. If you do it by IP and not by name, unless the router rejects DNS requests, I don't see why it would not work. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] need help re-installing W123 wagon drip rail end piece
Hi all, Long story short - my '84 Euro wagon finally got a respray. Yeah! All trim removed and replaced successfully EXCEPT the curved rear section of the roof drip rail on the D-pillar. I can get close but one end or the other pops off the car when I try to tap it home. The long straight drip rail run from the windshield back is no problem. I'm planning to visit the bone yards to find some W123s to practice RRing this piece (sedans and wagons since the end section is similar) but am looking for hints or tips from anyone who has been here and done this. Is it best to start at the top next to the long section of rail or at the base of the rear side window? The curved piece seems to have an odd bend to create a friction fit but it's just not happening for me. So frustrating! Thanks, Dave '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] need help re-installing W123 wagon drip rail end piece
Thanks for the on list reply, Dan. Good to know you started at the roof line. I had wondered if the paint build-up from the respray had a negative effect on reattaching the piece but that doesn't seem to be the case. I have no problem seating the long rails with a rubber mallet. I used painters tape and towels to protect the new paint. The trim removal tools from harbor freight work very well. (see someone else's drip rail attachment pictures at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/3467789-post422.html) I've been messing with this so long I can now repeatedly remove and replace the long rail without damaging the paint. Similarly, I am able to seat half the curved piece but after ruining one rear piece buy forcing the aluminum channel too much, I am now cautious with the applied force. Almost immediately after posting here I had a light bulb moment and called the Classic Center which is local to me. They are all at Pebble Beach right now but my trusty sales guy said the restoration crews should be back next week and may be able to assist or give pointers. Fingers crossed. Dave '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) On Aug 15, 2013, at 11:06 AM, Dan Penoff wrote: Dave, As we discussed earlier, I did this on my 79 wagon and I believe I started at the top where the piece meets the long drip rail piece so everything matched up. I don't recall much about putting this piece on, but I do recall putting the drip rail piece on and it was a real PITA. If you haven't already, find some pieces of oak to fashion a tool to drive these on. I'll look in my W123 CD to see if they have a diagram for the tool. I know I had a diagram from a manual to fashion the tool. Dan Sent from my iPad On Aug 15, 2013, at 1:40 PM, Dave Cavner w123wa...@gmail.com wrote: Hi all, Long story short - my '84 Euro wagon finally got a respray. Yeah! All trim removed and replaced successfully EXCEPT the curved rear section of the roof drip rail on the D-pillar. I can get close but one end or the other pops off the car when I try to tap it home. The long straight drip rail run from the windshield back is no problem. I'm planning to visit the bone yards to find some W123s to practice RRing this piece (sedans and wagons since the end section is similar) but am looking for hints or tips from anyone who has been here and done this. Is it best to start at the top next to the long section of rail or at the base of the rear side window? The curved piece seems to have an odd bend to create a friction fit but it's just not happening for me. So frustrating! Thanks, Dave '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] sunroof not powering open? - W123
e - I'd just be guessing what is wrong from this distance, but I've posted a couple links below. Sunroof problems have been discussed to death on many of the MB web forums. I'm sure there is good info in this list archive too but I've never been as successful targeting specifics here as I have elsewhere. Cable/ motor repair: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123SunRoofRepair Where to locate the motor so you can check the gear yourself and how to manually operate the roof when the motor goes.: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1616247-w123-power-sunroof-problems.html Section 77 of the MB factory manual is very helpful in understanding the what, where and how of the sliding roof assembly. Dave '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) hi all! seems the sunroof in our 300D isn't wanting to open; there's a 'click' audible from the front edge (that sounds like it might be a latch?) when we hit the switch, and if it's really quiet we can hear what sounds like what i imagine might be the cable shifting slightly in its track from along the left rear area of the roof. local indy MBZ guy took a quick look at it and suspects that the fiber gear in the motor might be stripped, but says he can't source that independent of the motor, and the motors are only available to him from through the dealer for several hundred dollars. i know this isn't something everyone cares about, but we miss it greatly. here in California, our sunroof gets enjoyed pretty much any time we're below about 40MPH and it's not raining. we (and our dog) would very much like it back. any tips, hints, links or clues to share that might help us get this operational again? the only thing i turned up in a quick Google search that looked promising was a kit and book from Mercedes Source, and i wanted to check with the collective wisdom of the group to see if there might be something else that i should look into first, or as well. thanks in advance for your help! cheers! e '85 300D Berkeley, CA ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Microsoft Community
Haven't followed this and don't know what has been tried but... have you looked at all the subscription options in the link at the bottom of each message, particularly the 'Get MIME or Plain Text Digests?' toggle? If it's set to plain text and you are having issues, I'd change to mime, then save. I would then try to change back to plain text and re-save. If that has been done to no avail I'd be stumped, too. To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Dave '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) On Aug 3, 2013, at 9:14 AM, G. M. Brown wrote: Regarding the problem I'm having with the list digests showing up with individual attachment icons across the top and the TOC being one of 'em causing one to open this attachment to determine if there's any subject matter in a particular digest worth reading, I'm gonna' give Microsoft Community or some knowledgeable compu-geek on the list one last chance to help resolve this issue . . . otherwise I'm just gonna' permanenty unsubscribe. Note: This problem didn't exist prior to my going on vacation on 7/13 and resubscribing upon my return on 7/24. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W126 early vs. late bumpers different?
On Jul 3, 2013, at 1:01 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote: On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 12:05 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote: Beats me. I don't know the late 126s that well as far as bumpers and attachment points. It wouldn't be that hard to see. Yeah, I was feeling lazy and didn't want to crawl underneath with a flashlight, plus worried that it might LOOK deceptively as if they were interchangeable, and then when I get them off both cars I would find out that the bolt holes were off by half an inch or something like that. Alex Here's a link that might help: http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w126/112628-how-does-euro-front-bumper-mount-86-91-w126-us-cars.html Dave ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W124 AC Problem -- '91 300D 2.5T
Larry, If you do have a bad pod (Climate Control Actuator), you can replace the entire unit or just get the internal rubber diaphragms from Geo. Murphy. Some pods have one diaphragm and others have two - the number you need is obvious once disassembled. http://www.perfanalysis.com/climate-control/acc-version-ii/ Good luck, Dave On Jul 1, 2013, at 7:14 AM, Larry T wrote: Thanks for the advice Guys! I plan to have a system leak test done when I can and go from there. So, are ACPods the vacuum things that operate the flaps, etc? It would sure make life easier if the problem is things like seals and o-rings ... ;-) Don't recall the term Pods before ... Thx agn, Larry On 6/30/2013 9:26 PM, Hendrik and Fay wrote: If you pull the car apart, make sure to replace the AC pods, they fail and some you have to pull the dash to replace. Hendrik who has a failed pod under the dash On 01/07/13 10:00, Larry T wrote: Thanks Wilton (and others) -- I will definitely do as suggested and have a full leak test done to be sure the problem is actually behind the dash. A couple of years ago my technician found a loose Schraeder valve was the cause of my loss of Freon. That was a easy problem to find and just as easy to fix! Maybe I'll get lucky again!? Thanks again to all who helped -- LarryT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W124 AC Problem -- '91 300D 2.5T
On Jul 1, 2013, at 7:37 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote: If you do have a bad pod (Climate Control Actuator), you can replace the entire unit or just get the internal rubber diaphragms from Geo. Murphy. Some pods have one diaphragm and others have two - the number you need is obvious once disassembled. http://www.perfanalysis.com/climate-control/acc-version-ii/ Not correct, unfortunately. The pods on the 124 are different from the ones on the 123 and 126. No user-serviceable parts inside as it used to say on the back of TVs. Best just to replace them all when the dash is out. Alex Clarification is good! George claims his kits work for all MBs from '81 - '91. There are also web forums with W124 owners saying they have successfully used his kits. He doesn't sell pods for the W124's oval legroom actuator or their small black pods but does supply those for the pods with the pink tops. If you pull the dash, you should probably check / replace them all. You aren't going to want to do it again any time soon. Dave ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 A/C Compressor
Tomorrow is 1/2 price day at P-N-P. I was going to pick up an A/C compressor or three. Can I pull any GM R4 and change the manifolds to fit the Mercedes? Rick On May 23, 2012, at 8:57 PM, Dieselhead wrote: Nope MB only. Reports are: if you use a gm unit, it does not get lubrication, and burns up the bearings. My understanding is that the MB unit hangs upside down from the GM unit. (no personal experience) This point has been debated to death. The 'upside down R4 will not last' is an Internet phenomena that is often repeated with slim factual support. Swaps have been made for decades with perfectly acceptable results. Theory is the small hole or X (if there is one) on the front should be up. Oil splashes around and collects in the hole - it then drips down onto the shaft, lubricating the bearing and seal. A GM compressor can be reclocked to maintain this orientation as desired. There is enough evidence to my mind that this is not required for a long lived R4. Some newer designs don't even have this 'feature'. Keep the correct amount of oil in the system at all times. If you have a freon leak, make sure your oil levels are maintained when you recharge. Run the system monthly to maintain lubrication. The oil miscibility of the freon in an R4 may be more important than in other designs but that does not mean a GM R4 will not work on an MB. Dave SoCal - '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W124 Window Regulator
Use an old 12V power tool battery with a couple leads to check function on window regulators, etc. Good to check pin-outs on one before you go so you know which connections are needed for ups and downs. Dave SoCal - '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) Got an easy way to get the window down in the junkyard with no power? Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT OK you apple geeks
Type 'top -u' (no quotes) in Terminal to view the processor hog(s). If you want to keep FF, keep add-ons to a bare minimum. Ditto the number of open tabs. Restarting the browser often/daily will keep the memory leaks in check. FFs ad blockers are fabulous when they work but make some sites appear to hang. Dave SoCal - '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) On May 23, 2012, at 2:01 PM, Allan Streib wrote: Firefox is a pig. Any reason you are not just using Safari? Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net writes: I have this iMac, it has 4GB of memory and 4 CPUs and 1 TB drive (half empty) with a 2TB connected for backups. The thing runs bog slow sometimes with the spinning wheel, with Thunderbird, Firefox, maybe a Preview doc or two, iTunes, and maybe an iChat and something else running (and Finder, which always seems to run). I get this idea that this is not how it should be. I think it is Firefox that is buggering it, as the system monitor shows FF running over 1GB of memory usage as time goes on, and varying CPU usage up to 80-90+% sometimes. Nothing else shows much memory or CPU usage If I close FF (and usually I have to do a force quit) and restart it, reload my session, it seems to be fine for awhile. Facebook seems to be the app/page that hangs most, or maybe is causing the problem. I can't decide if FF is buggering things, or some pages that are open in tabs in FF (and FB in particular). This seems to have become more prevalent with the latest versions of FF, I am wondering if they are getting so bloated that they suck up resources way out of proportion to what they should be. I also hear the hard drive banging away when FF is running, but it is not clear why or what it is doing. Here is what memory usage looks like (with FF shut down) Free 2.14GB Wired 430.0 MB Active 976MB Inactive 497.2 MB Used 1.86GB CPU is showing %User 0.75 %System 0.50 % Idle 97.38 385 threads, 68 processes I'll get some numbers after FF has run awhile Any thoughts? --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 A/C Compressor
Rick, Some MBs have SAE threaded comps. and some have metric. There are also light vs. regular version R4s. The 'regular' is slightly longer and supposedly has a larger clutch according to the Delco pdf linked below. http://www.acdelco.com/pdf/appcat_buyers/compressors.pdf My 240D has a light version (added before my time) and the support bracket typically on the back side of the W123 comp. has fit issues (it was removed). There may be a method around that but I don't know fittings very well. I always thought they were interchangeable beyond those points but have seen some weird looking connections on GM R4s that would need substantial MB retrofitting. Luckily the hard line connection fit is obvious when you are looking at them. As an aside, I'm looking to pick up a spare to make a 'tool' like the one shown in the link below - it allows resealing an entire 'good but leaky' R4 instead replacing it or just replacing the front seal. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2714537-post76.html More details: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2709045-post73.html And for completeness from the same (very long) thread - part number info if you want to get everything from ackits.com to redo the front seal. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2505666-post71.html Good luck, Dave SoCal - '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) On May 23, 2012, at 5:17 PM, Rick Knoble wrote: Tomorrow is 1/2 price day at P-N-P. I was going to pick up an A/C compressor or three. Can I pull any GM R4 and change the manifolds to fit the Mercedes? Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Mercedes Microfilm Library for sale (incomplete)
No affiliation. Link has pics. He's taking offers. Thought it might be of interest to someone who may not see other forums. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1652883-f-s-mercedes-microfilm-library.html Seller's words: Hi guys, I have a Mercedes Microfilm library that I no longer need. It is not complete, but does have a ton of films covering everything from body, mechanical, trim, wheels, engines from 1960`s to mid 1990`s ( sorry no reader anymore ) If there is a specific model or engine that you need I can check to make sure it is in there before you buy. $135.00 shipped to any of the lower 48 It's my vague recollection some transmission fiche has information not commonly available. Could well be wrong on that - it's been awhile. When I bought a fiche reader a decade ago I think I paid $20 - used it a few years and sold it for $25. Dave SoCal - '82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Overfilled transmission fluid - wtf?
Dimitri, Topsider parts are available: http://www.airpoweramerica.com/index.php?a=order Dave SoCal '82 240D (3 pedal) '84 300TD (Euro) '85 300TD (Cali) On May 3, 2012, at 8:55 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote: Speaking of topsiders, do repair parts exist for those things? I used it to suck up some biodiesel many years ago and the seals in the plunger/pump thing failed. It's been a boat anchor ever since. Too bad cause it wasn't cheap! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 1985 300TD ACC (heating system) 101
This pictorial on the W123 evaporator removal gets you in the neighborhood: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123Evaporator Dave SoCal '82 240D (3 pedal) '84 300TD (Euro) '85 300TD (Cali) On Apr 24, 2012, at 12:21 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote: The only good thing I can say about replacing the 123 heater core is it's slightly less hard than a 126. Philip: Correct me if I'm wrong; to replace a 123 heater core don't you need to remove the dash, console, all ductwork, steering wheel, and then remove the entire HVAC box/assembly, which requires draining coolant and removing Freon? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Ramps
Driving up ramps is nerve racking for me and I never liked the saddle mount stands I've owned forever. My whole attitude about working under the car changed when I bought the Esco stands reviewed here: http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/07/mega-jack-stand-review-1/ Weight rating is similar to my old stands but the way they sit under the car gives me piece of mind over the old racheting version. I still put stacked 2x12s under the wheels. Dave SoCal '82 240D (3 pedal) '84 300TD (Euro) '85 300TD (Cali) On Apr 21, 2012, at 12:55 PM, Michael Canfield wrote: Jack stands are great as long as you have a good base just like the ramps. I often run the car up on the ramps, then use the factory jack to lift the side I want to work on, remove the ramp on that side and put a jack stand under the car then let the jack down. Gets it up higher so I can get under it or not have to bend so far to do brake work etc.. Mike On Apr 21, 2012 2:28 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Good to hear. They gave me really good clearance. I never really felt comfortable with the whole jack stands thing and only use them when I have no alternative. Maybe someday I can build my dream garage with a lift:) Sent from my iPhone On Apr 21, 2012, at 1:43 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote: I use them all of the time when working under the 300d. Best safety tip I can give is put a piece of heavy plywood under them on a level surface to keep them from sinking into the ground. Mike On Apr 21, 2012 11:56 AM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: I just discovered them. I found a set at my local dump's swap shed. Used them this morning to replace the muffler on my brother's 300TE. Worked like a charm. Anyone here use them? Any safety suggestions? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] tire changing
Speaking of… my 90 year old neighbor - sharp as a tack (mostly) had a blow out in his '93 Camry recently but left the lug wrench on the roadside. He asked me to help find a replacement. Google has not been my friend. Anyone know what size I should be looking for? Another friend went to Pep Boys for a replacement but the guys there said they couldn't help. I'm thinking the friend mis-phrased the request but I wasn't there. It would be nice if it was the factory-standard bent wrench rather than the universal X shape. Dave SoCal '82 240D (3 pedal) '84 300TD (Euro) '85 300TD (Cali) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] tire changing
Lug wrench issue resolved. My neighbor went to a different Pep Boys and picked up what he needed (13/16 / 21MM wrench). Thanks to everyone with the assist. Dave SoCal '82 240D (3 pedal) '84 300TD (Euro) '85 300TD (Cali) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!
Makes this one seem like a bit of a bargain: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2929674404.html Dave SoCal '82 240D (3 pedal) '84 300TD (Euro) '85 300TD (Cali) On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote: Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average to below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a fool out there for every car. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars
On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote: I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is warmer and humid. Randy Moisture definitely migrates upward through slabs. The floor covering industry has used this test to quantify the amount for decades: http://www.vaportest.com/Webpages/calcium_chloride_test.htm Current thinking is rigid insulation before the pour is the best method to eliminate the issue. The amount of insulation depends on your climate zone. Current best practices outlined here: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-059-slab-happy/ Lots of good info on that site regarding moisture content in dwellings - and how to solve the problem. Overkill for most retrofits. My favorite annecdotal quote is an off-topic post from a wood pellet stove forum: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/75919/P0/ ...Somebody on here was advising under-slab insulation even for an unheated garage, which sounded like a pretty good idea. Reply from a guy in SW Maine I have no heated slabs of the 5 on my property. I have styrofoam under 4-and-a-half of them. Guess where it's dark and damp in muggy or rainy weather. I can stack bags of grain on the slab in my rodent-proof room (insulated but not heated) and they never get mildewed against the floor. Whoever said it, I can agree with conviction based on experience. Dave SoCal ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] How do you install the bloody trim?
Further thought reminded me that I likely set the first end section into a clip just so it's holding but not fully seated, then move down the line repeating the process. Once each is set and you know they are all aligned the pushing begins. I *think* I remember that as being the easiest method. I'd agree the mallet (small and rubber, never a hammer) should be a last resort. Tiny taps. Shielding the trim with a folded rag or similar is a wise precaution. Dave SoCal '82 240D (3 pedal) '84 300TD (Euro) '85 300TD (Cali) On Apr 14, 2012, at 9:28 PM, Dieselhead wrote: These sound like the clips used to hold the chrome strips on the rear of a 200D (110) The best way I have found is to bump them with your fist or the heel of your hand. A rubber mallet may bend the trim unless you cushion it with a rag or similar. The tips SoCal Dave gave you are all true also, with the caveat about the mallet. This is my attempt to draw the clip in acsII, without showing the rivet in the middle. oo || o o ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] How do you install the bloody trim?
Hi Marshall, If the clips are still in place, the trim (left - 1236985480, right - 1236985580) should be placed against the them exactly as it'll look once attached. I believe the bottom of the trim piece fits into the clips. Pushing it directly into the attachment points with a good bit of force or a gentle tapping with a small rubber mallet should do the trick. I start closest to the side door, fit the trim into one clip at a time and move backward along the car. It may seem like you are going to break the window with the force required to get it onto the clips but they are made to to clamp very tight. Go slow and you should be fine. Inspect all clips before starting - if one is buggered from the removal they can be gently pried back into shape before installing the trim. If any of the clips (1249889878) are rusted or in really sad shape, pop rivets work for installing new ones. If one is marginal your trim will likely bow out ever so slightly at that spot over time. The trim won't fall off if one or two are weak but the only way to make it perfectly straight with no play is to have strong attachment points along the entire path. Dave SoCal On Apr 14, 2012, at 6:01 PM, Marshall Field wrote: I need to install the trim piece under the cargo-area window on my 81 300TD.The trim attachment points are rivited to the body but will rotate if need be.How does one re-attach such trim? Do you slide it on, snap it over or what?The trim piece is shiny chrome, delicate, very spendy, and according to Q in short supply. So I want to get it right first time. Any help is always appreciated. Marshall in Phoenix ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Ball joint etc.
I bought the SIR Tools M0063 press for $271 and change awhile back at handsontools.com. Discount code Facebook74 (expires 12/31/12) gives you 5% off their regular price of $285.xx. Free shipping. Yeah, it's still spendy and renting the tool is probably smartest for most people. I have 3 W123 keepers and did the math. I always prefer to own when I am able. My mechanic charges a full hour to do almost anything so buying gave me one more reason to stop going there (yup, I need a new indie but that is a different story). Once in a vise, knocking the joint out and pressing in a new one per job #33-440 hovers around 10 minutes without rushing anything. Huge smile the first time I did it. The time savings alone has been worth it to me. Not having to stand in line at a southern CA post office to return a rental may have tipped the scales - I would pay almost anything to not have to do that. Dave On Apr 4, 2012, at 9:07 PM, Fmiser wrote: ...Part number M0063 for $395.00 is the screw press. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Ball joint etc.
Jamie, I begging - please stop - my wallet cannot take any more of your helpful tips. ;-) Dave On Apr 4, 2012, at 5:31 PM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote: I'm glad you guys find that tool useful. I also have 000 589 44 33 00 listed here: http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#steering Its perfect for popping the upper control arm ball joint from the steering knuckle. Also good on tie rods. In most cases, it removes the joint without destroying anything so they can be reused. With these two tools, you can have a steering knuckle out in no time. Jaime ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Hit a deer....need a right Bosch Euro headlight glass for my83 300d.
I've seen Bosch glass available on the big auction site. Helps to know the Mercedes and/or Bosch part number you need. Sometimes listed that way instead of by vehicle type. Check the 'standard' (non-US) version of the EPC. Dave On Mar 8, 2012, at 6:14 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: What about Hella glass/parts, specifically 114/115? (I'm guessing not.) -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Wood keeps falling off W123 dash
I guess I'm not picturing your problem correctly. My wood curves up at the edges and pulls away from the flat metal piece with the nubs. I removed the wood from metal with a razor to be able to keep it perfectly flat, under weights, between 2 pieces of MDF. I was most afraid of cracking the varnish but it seems okay - time will tell if it re-warps. I'm assuming it will. Reattaching the wood to metal with the silicone was trivial. It's flatter than it was but I'm learning to live with the defects - if I obsessed over every little niggle I'd have no spare time. Dave On Feb 20, 2012, at 7:39 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: The wood is perfect yet slightly warped and I don't want to risk damaging the finish. These are some great suggestions, but I like most the idea of scoring the nubs with a razor. On my 1985 300TD, the PO used the thick double-sides foam tape to glue the wood on, and when I needed to remove the piece to swap the ACC module i practically had to use a crowbar to get it off! This of course trashed the wood (which had no metal backing anyway) but as I packrat spare W23 parts I had a wood piece waiting just for this occasion. On Mon, Feb 20, 2012 at 8:49 PM, Dave Cavner w123wa...@gmail.com wrote: I believe on a W123 wagon, the wood is attached to a metal piece which then plugs into the dash with 4 nubs. The wood in question typically curves up at the edges while the metal piece remains flat. I've pulled it off the metal backing and let it sit under weight for a few weeks with a bit of success. Perhaps steam would help even more? If this is what you are talking about, re-gluing it to the metal should be fine. It's still removable. My personal archives have a recommendation for 3M weather striping adhesive following the directions to the letter (glue both items to be bonded and wait). My neighbor is a lifelong glass installer - he recommended a clear silicone which I've had great success with. CR Laurence Silicone Sealant #33S. He's used it with glass inserts on warped kitchen doors and it will straighten them back to square. He also uses it to hang vanity wall mirrors - the stuff is super strong but doesn't bleed through the mirror backing. I love watching him put down a bead around a window perimeter - the finished job looks like a machine did the work. He's tried lots of caulk in his 30+ years and this is the only stuff he uses anymore. I'm a convert. Dave On Feb 20, 2012, at 4:20 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote: On Feb 20, 2012 5:16 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: The ACC wood veneer surrounding the ACC module on her 1985 300CD keeps falling off whenever we go over a bump because the zebrano is ever so slightly warped. I realize I can't un-warp it, bur is there a clever way to maybe add a little something to the holes on the plastic piece where the wood snaps into place so as to make it fit more snugly? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Wood keeps falling off W123 dash
I believe on a W123 wagon, the wood is attached to a metal piece which then plugs into the dash with 4 nubs. The wood in question typically curves up at the edges while the metal piece remains flat. I've pulled it off the metal backing and let it sit under weight for a few weeks with a bit of success. Perhaps steam would help even more? If this is what you are talking about, re-gluing it to the metal should be fine. It's still removable. My personal archives have a recommendation for 3M weather striping adhesive following the directions to the letter (glue both items to be bonded and wait). My neighbor is a lifelong glass installer - he recommended a clear silicone which I've had great success with. CR Laurence Silicone Sealant #33S. He's used it with glass inserts on warped kitchen doors and it will straighten them back to square. He also uses it to hang vanity wall mirrors - the stuff is super strong but doesn't bleed through the mirror backing. I love watching him put down a bead around a window perimeter - the finished job looks like a machine did the work. He's tried lots of caulk in his 30+ years and this is the only stuff he uses anymore. I'm a convert. Dave On Feb 20, 2012, at 4:20 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote: On Feb 20, 2012 5:16 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: The ACC wood veneer surrounding the ACC module on her 1985 300CD keeps falling off whenever we go over a bump because the zebrano is ever so slightly warped. I realize I can't un-warp it, bur is there a clever way to maybe add a little something to the holes on the plastic piece where the wood snaps into place so as to make it fit more snugly? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 300td 1982 backup light lenses?
Rick, Extra reverse lights for that bumper are not common. You might get lucky in a junk yard but I've found the lenses are usually broken. If you do use cracked ones make sure they are not too far gone. Moisture inside the housing leads to irreparable corrosion. The housings with lenses (#123 820 05 56) are 3-4 times the price as new lenses (#123 826 23 90). Bulbs in mine are single filament 21W. Good luck, Dave On Jul 25, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Rick Hawkins Java wrote: Hello, folks. It's hot on the Georgia coast!! Well, we finally reinstalled the bumper on my 82 300td. I'd removed it when i installed a trailer hitch some years back and it never made it back on. Anyway, i have the backup light assemblies and they are working, but both are missing the lenses and screws. Do any of you have a pair or even one lens that could be usable. I would even consider something that was crazed or cracked. You can contact me off list, if you wish. By the way, what bulbs are supposed to be in the backup lights? Normal single filament tail light bulbs? that's what seems to be in it. Our 16 year old is about to go for her driving practical test (road test) and she wants to do it in the Benz. Since the A/C is still down, i figure the examiner will be in such a hurry to get out of the car that he/she will make the test abbreviated. We shall see. thanks, xx rick Rick Hawkins www.javaphoto.com www.javacycles.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Harbor Freight Ads
For anyone with Steve's HF philosophy, this link is for you: http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?p=18485361 Check the wiki on the page for the latest updates. I've noticed the HF coupons in specialty magazines sometimes have better discounts than the more commonly available coupons sent to e-mail and mail subscribers. Doesn't happen often but I've recently seen a $10 difference on an engine hoist price, for example. Dave On Jul 19, 2010, at 6:20 AM, SteveB wrote: You can't have too many Harbor Freight ads. Steve ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] [Daveslist] where to buy R12
http://www.google.com/search?q=609+certification I think the best (recent) price I've seen is $12 but don't recall where. If I find it, I'll post it. Dave On Jul 19, 2010, at 4:48 AM, archer wrote: Hi Gerry, Do you or anyone have a URL for getting a tech a/c certificate online? Thanks, Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Tightening Nets on the Back of Front Seats of 83 300SD
Dwight, Consider yourself lucky — with an older W123 you probably have a metal rather than plastic frame. Removal is obvious once the seat back is off. Dave Date: Sunday, July 18, 2010, 8:03 AM Does this apply to the 123 as well? Thanks, Dwight Dwight E. Giles, Jr. 1978 240D 4 speed. 218K + miles. 1990 300D 2.5t 170K miles. Wickford, RI ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT, mass renaming of files
I shouldn't be here as I've been a Mac guy since the 80s but there are many, many freeware renaming utilities available for Mac so I figured there must be at least a couple (hundred) for Windows. A quick Google search pointed me here: http://www.snapfiles.com/freeware/system/fwfilerename.html but others would probably have better knowledge on the 'definitive' freeware repository for Windows. I'm sure there are many more options than those linked without needing to roll your own script. Dave SoCal -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 9:54 AM To: Banned List; mercedes Mailing List Subject: [MBZ] OT, mass renaming of files Is there some way to mass rename a bunch of files? This is what I mean. I got a bunch of files each with a unique name with a c at the end. I need to rename them all, keeping the same unique file name for each, but only removing the c at the end. If i highlight all of them and remove the c, it will rename all files the same with a number (1) or whatever at the end. That wont work. Anybody know of a way to do it leaving everything the same except removing the c at the end? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] First Year Attorney Tries to Get Me...
Dan, You consider telling him (or dropping a hint) that you are/were professional negotiator? Probably could cut to the chase a bit quicker... Dave On Jul 15, 2010, at 8:19 AM, LWB250 wrote: I don't care about getting the better of him. I knew he was a law school grad by the things he said and the way he was thinking when he came to look at the bike. Nice kid, has some sort of corporate job, so he's probably one of the higher ups in his class. What he doesn't know is he's dealing with someone who has been trained as a professional negotiator/mediator. Hopefully we'll get this worked out and he'll end up with a nice bike and all the goodies that go along with it, and I'll get the price I was asking. Dan --- On Thu, 7/15/10, Donald Snook dsn...@mtsqh.com wrote: From: Donald Snook dsn...@mtsqh.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] First Year Attorney Tries to Get Me... To: 'Mercedes@okiebenz.com' Mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Thursday, July 15, 2010, 9:49 AM Dan wrote: Donald will probably enjoy this... . . . Anyway, a nice young man (who is a first year practicing attorney) came by on Sunday and spent a fair amount of time looking at it and talking with me about it. He decided to buy it, and offered me a $400 deposit to keep it until this weekend, when he could make arrangements to get it. . . . I gotta give him credit for trying. You need to give this poor kid a break. He spent the last three years trying to prove he knows something in law school. His poor brain was smashed down scooped out and replaced so that he could think like a lawyer. If he is in his first year, he thinks he is indestructible and able to dazzle you with his intellect, argument and negotiation skills. He just needs to have his ass kicked by a 70 year old lawyer who has forgotten more law than this kid will ever know. I speak from experience (by getting my ass kicked by an old lawyer). I bet you'll get the better of him, Dan. Donald H. Snook ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fwd: mercedes diesel 300d - $1100 (greenport)
When sellers use lines like that I always reply 'yeah, they all do _ (fill in the blank) UNTIL YOU FIX IT.' Dave On Jul 15, 2010, at 12:35 PM, WILTON wrote: BTW, mine's 24 years old. What issues? ;) Wilton Looks like it may be an '87. If seller wants to sell, wonder why he couldn't tell us more? Wilton Frederick W Moir wrote: http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/1842794598.html to contact the 1987? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL photog of the week
This one might have it beat. http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/1834666383.html Dave On Jul 9, 2010, at 8:10 PM, Rich Thomas wrote: http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1832837612.html Looks good! —R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] AC Question
Speaking of A/C - I think I now have enough W123 cars that need A/C repair to learn to do it myself. If I step away from Harbor Freight and get better quality gauges and vacuum, what brands/sources/retailers would be a good place to start. Regarding the vacuum, I have an 80 gallon Champion compressor - are air -assisted Venturi pump vacs worthwhile or should I go electric? I won't say money is no object but I prefer to buy quality when it makes sense. Thank you, Dave SoCal On Jun 27, 2010, at 8:38 AM, Peter Frederick wrote: If it leaks down in a month, likely there will be enough dye at the leak to see. Since you are going to open it to fix the leak, I would suggest a new receiver/dryer or accumulator (depending on the style of AC, I don't know which one Chrysler used), fresh oil in the compressor, and replacing all the 0-rings. If one is bad, the rest aren't far behind! Check the condensate drain for traces of dye, it's possible you have a cracked evaporator. I don't know if this is a common problem on a PT Cruiser, but they DO fail. Ditto for the condenser -- they are subject to corrosion and road damage, being the most vulnerable part of the system and under the most heat and pressure stress. Probably a good idea to clean out the space between rad and condenser, likely it's full of trash. Check the hoses for leaks at the compression fittings, too, especially the high pressure and hot ones. Check the fittings on the compressor as they can leak, notably the high pressure side as the o-rings erode there. Ditto for compressor front seal, although that one may be hard to find. Best to use a thermal conductivity or combustion type leak detector there if you have access to one, as the dye will be present only under the clutch and likely not very visible. Good luck -- I've been hunting for a leak that size on my 300TE for about six years now. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] AC Question
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll focus on either a 'better brand' electric pump but will still swing by HF with coupon in hand to look at theirs. I'm looking to stick with R12. What about gauges? Are they basically all the same or do you get what you pay for? Brands to look for would be so helpful. I recognize brand names but not necessarily reputation. A/C just hasn't been on my radar until recently. Recovery? I know the law. I know a little of the DIY tricks but would like to do it right. Is there such an animal as a real DIY recovery unit? Anything else? Dave SoCal -- 82 240D 82 300SD 84 300TD (Euro) 85 300TD On Jun 28, 2010, at 6:51 AM, Mitch Haley wrote: Dave Cavner wrote: Speaking of A/C - I think I now have enough W123 cars that need A/C repair to learn to do it myself. If I step away from Harbor Freight and get better quality gauges and vacuum, what brands/sources/retailers would be a good place to start. Regarding the vacuum, I have an 80 gallon Champion compressor - are air -assisted Venturi pump vacs worthwhile or should I go electric? I won't say money is no object but I prefer to buy quality when it makes sense. A few years ago, top brand (snap-on, robinaire, etc) R12 gauges were going for $25 or less used, and decent reclaiming machines were going for $200 or so. Now, like Selectric typewriters, the R12 stuff is becoming harder to find, since most of it was disposed of 5-10 years ago. If you're looking to convert to R134a, that's a different story. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
