Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) beja4a3y

[Brian Toscano]

Since the last flush, I'm not getting any heavy deposits.  Instead I'm
getting lots of fine powered rust.  I pulled the heater core hoses and the
bright orange rust that was built up on the heater core and inside the
hoses is completely gone! :-)

Looks like another flush similar to the last one should result in much
cleaner coolant.





On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 7:22 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:

>
> Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.
>
> I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.
>
> When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
> year.  When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored.  =
> Figuring that it just needed a good flush and a return to MB coolant, I =
> removed it, flushed it and the cooling system, and installed the correct =
> coolant. I would add that I also replaced hoses, as the hoses had a =
> nasty accumulation of brown discoloration in them that I can only =
> suspect was rust.
>
> Within a matter of weeks I started having problems with the temperatures =
> rising if the car was moving more than about 40-50 mph.  As soon as I =
> crossed that threshold, the temperature would climb a good 10-15 degrees =
> above the proper 82F or thereabouts.
>
> Anyway, I removed the radiator and took it to a trusted shop.  The core =
> was plugged in the very center but what they said was rust.  Where it =
> came from, I have no idea.  When I flushed and refilled the system the =
> coolant remained the proper honey color that MB coolant is.
>
> Apparently the core was already clogged, but since I bought the car in =
> the winter (relatively speaking) the problem didn't manifest itself =
> until the ambient temps got up relatively high.  I can only suspect that =
> they were running straight water in the system, and it caused the block =
> to rust, as it's the only part in the system that could do so.
>
> Point being, flush the system for sure.  Whether or not you'll continue =
> to see the rust/crud in the system is questionable. I doubt it's your =
> heater core.
>
> Dan
>
>
> > From: "Brian Toscano" 
> >> Ernest,
> >> I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed
> the
> >> system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
> >> radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not
> clear
> >> on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron
> and
> >> not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
> >> core?
> >>
> >> I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean
> it,
> >> that it may spring a leak!
> >>
> >> My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty
> the
> >> coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may
> continue to
> >> shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money
> on
> >> something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust
> even
> >> with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are
> otherwise
> >> good.
> >>
> >> On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield <
> >> erne...@backyardengineering.org> wrote:
> >
> >>> since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
> >>> odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the
> air
> >>> in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and
> causing
> >>> corrosion there.
> >>>   replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
> >>>
> >>>   i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
> >>> garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til
> it's
> >>> clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully
> clear.
> >>>   then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
> >>> filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same
> problem.
> >>> cheers!
> >>> e
> >>> '85 300D(200K+)
> >>> '94 XJ(240K+)
> >>>
> >>> On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
>  Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
>  What
>  came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
>  brown,
>  and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
> what
>  is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
> clean
>  water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
>  removed
>  the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
> engine
>  (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
> rust-free.
>  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
> 
>  The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
> the top
>  of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
> 
>  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
>  return to the heater core have a rust buildu

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Peter Hertzing]

Yes auto parts stores have them too.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 3, 2012, at 12:56 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Peter Hertzing wrote:
>> When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
>> correct size for the hose - and should be fine.  
> 
> Like this?
> http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Curt Raymond]

Put the front up on ramps while you're burping it? My '81 300TD liked to have 
the front higher while burping. We lived in the apartment back then so I drove 
it up on a handy curb which made burping it way easier.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 11:02:12 -0600
From: Brian Toscano 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
work)
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
since filled it up to the Full mark.

Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
been purged from the pressurized part of the system?


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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Mitch Haley]

Peter Hertzing wrote:

When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
correct size for the hose - and should be fine.  


Like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W

___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Peter Hertzing]

When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
correct size for the hose - and should be fine.  For arguments sake - you
could make the Radiator the highest point by bleeding the system on
jackstands as high as you can safely get the front of the jeep.

Peter

On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

> Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
> the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
> but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
> more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
> air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
> water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
> thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
> expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
> since filled it up to the Full mark.
>
> Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
> been purged from the pressurized part of the system?
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing 
> wrote:
>
> > Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were
> talking
> > about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system
> to
> > bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of
> the
> > engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
> > properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
> > that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
> > you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
> > it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
> > system.
> >
> > Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
> > internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.
> >
> > Peter
> > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames 
> wrote:
> >
> > > Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
> > >
> > > --
> > > John W Reames
> > > jream...@verizon.net
> > > Home: +14106646986
> > > Mobile: +14437915905
> > >
> > > On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano 
> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has
> the
> > > > spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to
> be
> > > the
> > > > way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
> > > rusting -
> > > > it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't
> > try
> > > > to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
> > > changing
> > > > the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the
> spring
> > I
> > > > could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse
> > water
> > > > through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be
> perfectly
> > > > clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both
> > are
> > > > cast iron.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas <
> > > > richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Maybe those springs?
> > > >>
> > > >> --R
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the
> radiator.
> > > >>> What
> > > >>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns
> rusty
> > > >>> brown,
> > > >>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.
>  Likewise,
> > > what
> > > >>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I
> poured
> > > clean
> > > >>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
> > > >>> removed
> > > >>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
> > > engine
> > > >>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
> > > rust-free.
> > > >>> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
> > the
> > > top
> > > >>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply
> and
> > > >>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
> > > radiator
> > > >>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that
> > spring
> > > >>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
> > > from if
> > > >>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano > > **com
> > >  wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.
> >  The
> > >  bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant
> > tester.
> > >  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original
> > problem
> > >  has
> > > 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
since filled it up to the Full mark.

Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
been purged from the pressurized part of the system?


On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing  wrote:

> Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking
> about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system to
> bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the
> engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
> properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
> that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
> you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
> it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
> system.
>
> Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
> internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.
>
> Peter
> On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames  wrote:
>
> > Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
> >
> > --
> > John W Reames
> > jream...@verizon.net
> > Home: +14106646986
> > Mobile: +14437915905
> >
> > On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano  wrote:
> >
> > > I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
> > > spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be
> > the
> > > way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
> > rusting -
> > > it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't
> try
> > > to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
> > changing
> > > the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring
> I
> > > could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse
> water
> > > through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
> > > clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both
> are
> > > cast iron.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas <
> > > richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Maybe those springs?
> > >>
> > >> --R
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
> > >>> What
> > >>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
> > >>> brown,
> > >>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
> > what
> > >>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
> > clean
> > >>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
> > >>> removed
> > >>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
> > engine
> > >>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
> > rust-free.
> > >>> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
> > >>>
> > >>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
> the
> > top
> > >>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
> > >>>
> > >>> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
> > >>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
> > radiator
> > >>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that
> spring
> > >>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
> > from if
> > >>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
> > >>>
> > >>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano > **com
> >  wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.
>  The
> >  bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant
> tester.
> >  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original
> problem
> >  has
> >  been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not
> expecting
> >  100%
> >  perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
> > block
> >  and head.
> > 
> > 
> >  On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max
> >  wrote:
> > 
> >  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
> > > compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a
> dark
> > > radiator.
> > >
> > > Did you fix the original problem?
> > >
> > > I think your flushing method failed.
> > > --
> > > Max 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Peter Hertzing]

Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking
about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system to
bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the
engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
system.

Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.

Peter
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames  wrote:

> Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
>
> --
> John W Reames
> jream...@verizon.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
>
> On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano  wrote:
>
> > I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
> > spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be
> the
> > way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
> rusting -
> > it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
> > to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
> changing
> > the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
> > could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
> > through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
> > clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
> > cast iron.
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas <
> > richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Maybe those springs?
> >>
> >> --R
> >>
> >>
> >> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
> >>
> >>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
> >>> What
> >>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
> >>> brown,
> >>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
> what
> >>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
> clean
> >>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
> >>> removed
> >>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
> engine
> >>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
> rust-free.
> >>> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
> >>>
> >>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the
> top
> >>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
> >>>
> >>> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
> >>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
> radiator
> >>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
> >>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
> from if
> >>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano **com
>  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
>  bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
>  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
>  has
>  been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
>  100%
>  perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
> block
>  and head.
> 
> 
>  On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max
>  wrote:
> 
>  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
> > compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
> > radiator.
> >
> > Did you fix the original problem?
> >
> > I think your flushing method failed.
> > --
> > Max Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> > '95 E300, '87 300TD
> > ___
> >
> > __**_
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<
> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com<
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> >
> >
>  __**_
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<
> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> >>>
> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com<
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> >>>
> >>>
> >> ___

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I am not saying ignore, but instead leave it and see if the system
continues to clean itself out.  I have already seen that the cooling system
is getting cleaner by driving it.

It may be dex-cool sludge.  When the thermostat failed and I removed the
radiator cap I had to scoop out orange mud like paste.  It may be that the
mechanic who R/R'd the head saw rusty colored coolant and used Dexcool.
 Does't Dexcool usually leave a stain near external seals?  I haven't seen
any evidence of that.

On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 6:13 AM, John Reames  wrote:

> Dex-cool sludge?
>
> --
> John W Reames
> jream...@verizon.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
>
> On Jun 3, 2012, at 0:23, Brian Toscano  wrote:
>
> > Thank for the suggestions.
> >
> > Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30
> > minutes.  What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water
> through
> > the heater core radiator, and engine.  I am not sure if the garden hose
> has
> > enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by
> > hand.
> >
> > The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty.  I don't think
> the
> > engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is
> > slowly coming out.  Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine
> > over time.
> >
> > The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or
> > expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator.  I
> think
> > this must happen after the engine cools off.  I would think the water
> pump
> > moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is
> > running (except for the expansion tank).
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey 
> wrote:
> >
> >> My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
> >> radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear
> water
> >> came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the
> small
> >> hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3
> >> years
> >> old) should inhibit corrosion.
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:
> mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
> >> On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
> >> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
> >> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
> >> work)
> >>
> >> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
>  What
> >> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
> brown,
> >> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
> what
> >> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
> clean
> >> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
> removed
> >> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
> engine
> >> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
> rust-free.
> >> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
> >>
> >> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the
> top
> >> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
> >>
> >> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
> >> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
> radiator
> >> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
> >> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from
> if
> >> the inside of the engine looks fine.
> >>
> >> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
> >>> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
> >>> However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
> >> has
> >>> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
> >> 100%
> >>> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
> block
> >>> and head.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max 
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
> >>>> com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[John Reames]

Dex-cool sludge?

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jun 3, 2012, at 0:23, Brian Toscano  wrote:

> Thank for the suggestions.
> 
> Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30
> minutes.  What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water through
> the heater core radiator, and engine.  I am not sure if the garden hose has
> enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by
> hand.
> 
> The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty.  I don't think the
> engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is
> slowly coming out.  Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine
> over time.
> 
> The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or
> expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator.  I think
> this must happen after the engine cools off.  I would think the water pump
> moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is
> running (except for the expansion tank).
> 
> 
> On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey  wrote:
> 
>> My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
>> radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water
>> came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small
>> hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3
>> years
>> old) should inhibit corrosion.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
>> On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
>> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
>> work)
>> 
>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
>> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
>> 
>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
>> 
>> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
>> 
>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
>>> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
>>> However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
>> has
>>> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
>> 100%
>>> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
>>> and head.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
>>>> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
>>>> radiator.
>>>> 
>>>> Did you fix the original problem?
>>>> 
>>>> I think your flushing method failed.
>>>> --
>>>> Max Dillon
>>>> Charleston SC
>>>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>> 
>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[ernest breakfield]

heater cores seem to collect crud, regardless of where it originates 
from. until you have an effective flush of that area (read; under 
pressure), it's hard to eliminate that as an area of concern... and if 
you didn't do your fill with the heater set full-on high so that the 
water was circulating through there, it's not likely you got all the air 
out of the system.


i definitely would not just leave it to see what happens; these 
things rarely (if ever!) fix themselves.
i think it unlikely that cleaning out the heater core could *cause* 
any problem, or even accelerate any problem you might already have. even 
if that were to happen, would you rather have that problem while you're 
out driving about at some random point, or when you're already at home?



cheers!
e


On 02/Jun/12 17:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Ernest,

I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are otherwise
good.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield<
erne...@backyardengineering.org>  wrote:


since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.


cheers!
e

'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)



On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:


Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
Toscano

wrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max   wrote:

  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

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To Unsubscribe

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Thank for the suggestions.

Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30
minutes.  What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water through
the heater core radiator, and engine.  I am not sure if the garden hose has
enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by
hand.

The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty.  I don't think the
engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is
slowly coming out.  Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine
over time.

The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or
expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator.  I think
this must happen after the engine cools off.  I would think the water pump
moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is
running (except for the expansion tank).


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey  wrote:

> My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
> radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water
> came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small
> hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3
> years
> old) should inhibit corrosion.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
> On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
> work)
>
> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
>  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
>
> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
>
>  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
> the inside of the engine looks fine.
>
> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
> wrote:
>
> > I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
> > bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
> >  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
> has
> > been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
> 100%
> > perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
> > and head.
> >
> >
> > On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:
> >
> >> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
> >> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
> >> radiator.
> >>
> >> Did you fix the original problem?
> >>
> >> I think your flushing method failed.
> >> --
> >> Max Dillon
> >> Charleston SC
> >> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> >> ___
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
___
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To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Scott Ritchey]

My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water
came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small
hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3 years
old) should inhibit corrosion.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
wrote:

> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
>  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
> and head.
>
>
> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:
>
>> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
>> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
>> radiator.
>>
>> Did you fix the original problem?
>>
>> I think your flushing method failed.
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>> ___
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
___
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[John Reames]

Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano  wrote:

> I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
> spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
> way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
> it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
> to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think changing
> the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
> could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
> through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
> clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
> cast iron.
> 
> 
> On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas <
> richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> 
>> Maybe those springs?
>> 
>> --R
>> 
>> 
>> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
>> 
>>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
>>> What
>>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
>>> brown,
>>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
>>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
>>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
>>> removed
>>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
>>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
>>> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
>>> 
>>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
>>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
>>> 
>>> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
>>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
>>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
>>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
>>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
>>> 
>>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
>>> Toscano
 wrote:
>>> 
>>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.
 
 
 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:
 
 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
> radiator.
> 
> Did you fix the original problem?
> 
> I think your flushing method failed.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> ___
> 
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
> 
> 
 __**_
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives 
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) beja4a3y

[Dan Penoff]

Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.

I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.

When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
year.  When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored.  =
Figuring that it just needed a good flush and a return to MB coolant, I =
removed it, flushed it and the cooling system, and installed the correct =
coolant. I would add that I also replaced hoses, as the hoses had a =
nasty accumulation of brown discoloration in them that I can only =
suspect was rust.

Within a matter of weeks I started having problems with the temperatures =
rising if the car was moving more than about 40-50 mph.  As soon as I =
crossed that threshold, the temperature would climb a good 10-15 degrees =
above the proper 82F or thereabouts.

Anyway, I removed the radiator and took it to a trusted shop.  The core =
was plugged in the very center but what they said was rust.  Where it =
came from, I have no idea.  When I flushed and refilled the system the =
coolant remained the proper honey color that MB coolant is.

Apparently the core was already clogged, but since I bought the car in =
the winter (relatively speaking) the problem didn't manifest itself =
until the ambient temps got up relatively high.  I can only suspect that =
they were running straight water in the system, and it caused the block =
to rust, as it's the only part in the system that could do so.

Point being, flush the system for sure.  Whether or not you'll continue =
to see the rust/crud in the system is questionable. I doubt it's your =
heater core.

Dan


> From: "Brian Toscano" 
>> Ernest,
>> I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
>> system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
>> radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
>> on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron and
>> not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
>> core?
>> 
>> I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
>> that it may spring a leak!
>> 
>> My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
>> coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue to
>> shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
>> something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
>> with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are otherwise
>> good.
>> 
>> On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield <
>> erne...@backyardengineering.org> wrote:
> 
>>> since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
>>> odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
>>> in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
>>> corrosion there.
>>>   replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
>>> 
>>>   i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
>>> garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
>>> clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
>>>   then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
>>> filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
>>> cheers!
>>> e
>>> '85 300D(200K+)
>>> '94 XJ(240K+)
>>> 
>>> On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
 What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
 Toscano
 >wrote:
 
 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
> However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
> has
> been fixed.  The flushing I did definite

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Gerry Archer]

My Dodge heater core wouldn't put out any heat at all.  I backflushed it 
with a garden hose for ten or fifteen minutes and the heater then worked 
well until it went to the crusher.

Gerry

From: "Brian Toscano" 

Ernest,
I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed 
the

system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron 
and

not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue 
to

shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are 
otherwise

good.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield <
erne...@backyardengineering.org> wrote:



since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and 
causing

corrosion there.
   replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

   i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully 
clear.

   then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)

On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
 What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, 
what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured 
clean

water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the 
engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and 
rust-free.

 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the 
top

of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower 
radiator

hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from 
if

the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
Toscano

>wrote:

 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron 
block

and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:

 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD



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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Ernest,

I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are otherwise
good.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield <
erne...@backyardengineering.org> wrote:

> since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
> odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
> in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
> corrosion there.
>replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
>
>i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
> garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
> clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
>then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
> filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
>
>
> cheers!
> e
>
> '85 300D(200K+)
> '94 XJ(240K+)
>
>
>
> On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
>
>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
>>  What
>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
>> brown,
>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
>> removed
>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
>>  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
>>
>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
>>
>>  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
>>
>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
>> Toscano
>> >wrote:
>>
>>  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
>>> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
>>>  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
>>> has
>>> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
>>> 100%
>>> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
>>> and head.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:
>>>
>>>  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com


>>>  __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>>  __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[ernest breakfield]

since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses, 
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the 
air in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and 
causing corrosion there.

replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the 
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til 
it's clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until 
fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by 
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.



cheers!
e

'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)


On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanowrote:


I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:


Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

___
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

That is what I am thinking.

Some of the black grit I've found in the coolant may be the old head gasket
from when I paid a mechanic to R/R the head.  The Jeep had a weird severe
misfiring problem that turned out to be low compression from faulty exhaust
valves.  I believe it was isolated to 2000-2001 model years when Jeep
changed the valve springs for emissions

The rust may have formed when the engine was apart when the mechanic worked
on it.  I was in no hurry and he had it apart for about 4 months.

The other unusual thing about this Jeep is that the original owner
purchased it from the dealer with a skunky expansion tank.  He bought it
late in the model year and it was one of the last ones they made.  He also
told me, IIRC, that it was best to leave it near empty to prevent it from
overflowing.  Since I've replaced the thermostat and flushed it out, it
doesn't seem to have that problem anymore.




On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 1:08 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

> Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely full
> of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust.  That would most likely
> be at the top.
>
> --R
>
>
> On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
>
>> I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
>> spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
>> way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting
>> -
>> it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
>> to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
>> changing
>> the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
>> could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
>> through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
>> clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
>> cast iron.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas<
>> richthomas79TD300@**constructivity.net>
>>  wrote:
>>
>>  Maybe those springs?
>>>
>>> --R
>>>
>>>
>>> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
>>>
>>>  Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
 what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
 clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
 engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
 rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the
 top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
 radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from
 if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.

 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano>>> com

  wrote:
>
  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
>  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
> has
> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
> 100%
> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
> block
> and head.
>
>
> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max
> wrote:
>
>  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
>
>> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
>> radiator.
>>
>> Did you fix the original problem?
>>
>> I think your flushing method failed.
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>> ___
>>
>> ___
>>
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> >
>>
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_
>> okiebenz.com
>> 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Rich Thomas]

Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely 
full of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust.  That would 
most likely be at the top.


--R

On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think changing
the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
cast iron.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas<
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>  wrote:


Maybe those springs?

--R


On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:


Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
Toscano

wrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max   wrote:

  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

__**_
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  __**_

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think changing
the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
cast iron.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

> Maybe those springs?
>
> --R
>
>
> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
>
>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
>>  What
>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
>> brown,
>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
>> removed
>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
>>  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
>>
>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
>>
>>  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
>>
>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
>> Toscano
>> >wrote:
>>
>>  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
>>> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
>>>  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
>>> has
>>> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
>>> 100%
>>> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
>>> and head.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:
>>>
>>>  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com


>>>  __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Rich Thomas]

Maybe those springs?

--R

On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanowrote:


I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:


Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano wrote:

> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
>  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
> and head.
>
>
> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:
>
>> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
>> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
>> radiator.
>>
>> Did you fix the original problem?
>>
>> I think your flushing method failed.
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>> ___
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max  wrote:

> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
> radiator.
>
> Did you fix the original problem?
>
> I think your flushing method failed.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> ___
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Max]

Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare 
side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I don't think there is an oil leak into the coolant. There is a small
amount of black stuff in the expansion tank, but it doesn't look like any
oil in coolant I've ever seen.  It settles to the bottom, unlike oil which
would normally float, and the expansion tank rinses out with tap water.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Sun, 27 May 2012 18:43:43 -0600 Brian Toscano
>  wrote:
>
> > I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't
> > affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the
> > coolant seems to separate.  I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is
> > somehow "lighter" or "less dense" and somehow floats to the top and
> > expands out to the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in
> > the system
> >
> > Any thoughts?
>
> With as much turbulence that (should!) exist in the radiator when you are
> driving (which is when the coolant gets warm and expands) I cannot see
> how things would segregate, even if there were some dirty coolant in it.
> Do you have an oil leak into the cooling system?
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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>
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> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Craig]

On Sun, 27 May 2012 18:43:43 -0600 Brian Toscano
 wrote:

> I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't
> affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the
> coolant seems to separate.  I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is
> somehow "lighter" or "less dense" and somehow floats to the top and
> expands out to the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in
> the system
> 
> Any thoughts?

With as much turbulence that (should!) exist in the radiator when you are
driving (which is when the coolant gets warm and expands) I cannot see
how things would segregate, even if there were some dirty coolant in it.
Do you have an oil leak into the cooling system?


Craig

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[MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

About a month ago I was in town and rolled the windows down.  I smelled
antifreeze and someone pulled up next to me and said you're leaking
coolant.  My coolant jug was overflowing, but my dash gauge was spot on.  I
got it to a nearby Wal Mart where I could buy supplies and rent a car
nearby.

I rented a car and drove back home to get tools.  The top of the radiator
had a lot of crap in it, but when I removed the thermostat, everything
looked fine.  I changed the thermostat, refilled, and drove home.  I
flushed the cooling system repeatedly to get rid of any crap that had come
loose.

Now what happens is that my coolant expansion tank gets dirty coolant in
it, but when I remove the radiator cap, I see green coolant.  The expansion
tank is at regular atmospheric pressure and connects to the radiator right
by the tank.

I would expect ALL the coolant to look the same color.  That's not what's
happening.

The hose between the radiator and expansion tank has been changed and the
expansion tank is clean.

I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't affect
the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the coolant
seems to separate.  I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is somehow
"lighter" or "less dense" and somehow floats to the top and expands out to
the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in the system

Any thoughts?
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