Re: [MBZ] Rust

[RELNGSON]

> ..I know 911s are galvanized...
> 
After 1976.

RLE





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Re: [MBZ] rust

[RELNGSON]

> ...US time capsule yields rusty car The 1957 Plymouth Belvedere car was 
> part of a competition...
> 
This was mildly interesting 18 months ago when it was nationwide filler 
news...

RLE





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Re: [MBZ] rust

[Wilton Strickland]

'Coulda been much more interesting if it had been hermetically sealed.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: 
To: 
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] rust


> > ...US time capsule yields rusty car The 1957 Plymouth Belvedere car was
> > part of a competition...
> >
> This was mildly interesting 18 months ago when it was nationwide filler
> news...
>
> RLE
>
>
>
>
>
> **
> Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
> favorite sites in one place.  Try it now.
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&;
> icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom0010)
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
old.

We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
and factory and not something they had added.


Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
intended to be sold in NE.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
rust situation on newer MBs.
  
http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently salt is used 
on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust to some extent (and I'll 
count the cars my parents owned since I'm familiar with them).  Japanese, 
American, German... they all rust.

Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 10 years but 
it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed and fenders were like 
swiss cheese when I sold it. 

I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also.  

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:05 PM, "Dimitri Seretakis" 
 wrote:
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
>   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
> rust situation on newer MBs.
>  
> http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust  
> ___
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?

 


 From: Allan Streib 
To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently salt is used 
on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust to some extent (and I'll 
count the cars my parents owned since I'm familiar with them).  Japanese, 
American, German... they all rust.

Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 10 years but 
it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed and fenders were like 
swiss cheese when I sold it. 

I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also.  

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:05 PM, "Dimitri Seretakis" 
 wrote:
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
>   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
> rust situation on newer MBs.
>  
> http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust  
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[hursley]

 My 99 W210 has a rust spot in the wheel fender. And I do wash the wheel well 
after every salt bath. Vehicle was brand new when we acquired it and had never 
left the snow belt area (NJ).  Car is running fine and good.

K.S.

On 11/22/11, Randy Bennell wrote:


Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
> 
>
> I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the rust 
> situation on newer MBs.
> 
> http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
> ___
>


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[clay monroe]

I think there may be some factory work done to prep the cars for a certain 
market, if they know the batch will be going to a cold or rust prone place.  
Sort of like Kalifornia cars are not the same as real benz.  Gump was sold in 
IL, and was outfitted with cold weather gear that would not have been standard 
for a southern car.  Pretty sure the block heater and undercoating would have 
been on a car meant for a florida or oregon dealer.

clay

On Nov 22, 2011, at 3:37 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

> 
> Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?
> 
> I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
> There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year old.
> We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.
> 
> I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was assured 
> that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original and factory 
> and not something they had added.
> 
> Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.
> 
> I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars around 
> the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not intended to be 
> sold in NE.
> 
> Randy
> 
> On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
>> rust situation on newer MBs.
>>  http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
>> ___
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully assembled, the 
chassis and body are dipped in corrosion inhibitors.  Aftermarket undercoating, 
dealer "paint protection", and the like is largely a scam, basically adds 
nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got no anticorrosion treatment at the 
factory, it did a little.  But my parents paid to have an Izuzu (Buick Opel) 
"rustproofed" in the late '70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than 
any other car they owned.

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, "Randy Bennell"  
wrote:
> 
> Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?
> 
> I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
> There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
> old.
> We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.
> 
> I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
> assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
> and factory and not something they had added.
> 
> Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.
> 
> I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
> around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
> intended to be sold in NE.
> 
> Randy
> 
> On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
> > 
> >
> >I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
> > rust situation on newer MBs.
> >   
> > http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
> > ___
> >
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Larry T]

    I did some research for a guy a couple of years ago  to find out what MB 
says in their sales/company lit about Rust prote ction - he had a 2000 S430 and 
the paint below the beltline began to fall off - I looked but could only find 
very vague references to protection against rust and corrosion - no thing 
definitive.   Lots of stuff re lating to Safety but nothing about corrosion 
which surprised me.  I have a fair amount of MB lit and t here was no mention 
of corrosion protectoin from the  60's to today. 



   I believe he eventually sued but never heard the results..  Like others, his 
was bought new, never wrecked/repaired and was always cared for.  He was from a 
Southern state like Ga or AL, IIRC  -- so road salt was not an issue for him . 
He went to MB and asked if they would stand behind their product but they said 
they would not repair the problem under warranty or good will.  The paint was 
coming off the car in sheets with corrosion clearly visible where the paint had 
been.    I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure 
what but things went downhill.  Some say it started years earlier - perhaps so 
- I know the early 70s were awesome cars as well as the W123 and 124 models. 



But everyone has a a story - 

;-) 



LarryT 

91 300D 


Let your engine tell you how healthy it is!   Visit www.youroil.net   For 
Inexpensive Oil Test Kits! 
- Original Message -
From: hurs...@verizon.net 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 7:03:39 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust 

 My 99 W210 has a rust spot in the wheel fender. And I do wash the wheel well 
after every salt bath. Vehicle was brand new when we acquired it and had never 
left the snow belt area (NJ).  Car is running fine and good. 

K.S. 

On 11/22/11, Randy Bennell wrote: 


Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA? 

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida. 
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
old. 
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it. 

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
and factory and not something they had added. 

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets. 

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
intended to be sold in NE. 

Randy 

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote: 
>  
> 
> I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the rust 
> situation on newer MBs. 
> 
> http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust 
> ___ 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, "Larry T"  
wrote:

> I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
> what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[LWB250]

I worked for a guy whose wife was deeply involved in the development and 
marketing when they lived in New Jersey (their families were from SFO, which is 
where I worked for him.)

I spoke to her about it several times, and while she was pretty closed mouthed 
about the whole thing, he told me on more than one occasion that internally the 
190 was considered a failure.

Nothing new here

Dan



 From: Allan Streib 
To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, "Larry T"  
wrote:

> I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
> what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Mountain Man]

Dimitri wrote:
> I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?

It was true 20 years ago when we lived there.
As I understand, they coat the sand these days - maybe they did 20
years ago too, I don't know.
The issue explained to me was the annual waterfall of 13" which causes
a real brine runoff if salt is used.
The salt here is coated - salt is huge BigBiz - money for nothing,
that's the way you do it...
mao - chicago

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Audis and BMWs of the same vintage do not have rust problems. Wouldn't those 
European regulations have effected them as well?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2011, at 8:29 PM, "Allan Streib"  wrote:

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, "Larry T"  
wrote:

I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[LWB250]

Deeply involved in the development and marketing of the 190, that is.

Dan



 From: LWB250 
To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
I worked for a guy whose wife was deeply involved in the development and 
marketing when they lived in New Jersey (their families were from SFO, which is 
where I worked for him.)

I spoke to her about it several times, and while she was pretty closed mouthed 
about the whole thing, he told me on more than one occasion that internally the 
190 was considered a failure.

Nothing new here

Dan



From: Allan Streib 
To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, "Larry T"  
wrote:

> I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
> what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[LWB250]

There was an issue with clear coats in the early 80s.  Exposure to the 
elements, especially sun, accelerated it.

It was very common to see 81-84 models down here in the late 90s where the 
clear coat was gone or was peeling off in large pieces on horizontal surfaces.  
And this was even on garage kept cars.

Dan



 From: Allan Streib 
To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, "Larry T"  
wrote:

> I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
> what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

They don't use any in Hawaii.  They didn't in TX 30 years ago.  Not 
sure about now.  Many other states that didn't used to, now do use 
salt, or a fancier chemical salt (calcium chloride et al)




I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?




 From: Allan Streib 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently 
salt is used on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust 
to some extent (and I'll count the cars my parents owned since I'm 
familiar with them).  Japanese, American, German... they all rust.


Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 
10 years but it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed 
and fenders were like swiss cheese when I sold it.


I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also. 


Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:05 PM, "Dimitri Seretakis" 
 wrote:





 

   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction 
with the rust situation on newer MBs.
  
 http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust 
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently 
salt is used on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust 
to some extent (and I'll count the cars my parents owned since I'm 
familiar with them).  Japanese, American, German... they all rust.


Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 
10 years but it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed 
and fenders were like swiss cheese when I sold it.


I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also. 


Allan


Many states now put down brine in place of salt and sand.  My 
experience is that the brine causes cars to rust even faster.  The 
worst vehicles were in the mid 70s, after the second round of 
pollution restriction.  Many cars and trucks rusted through within 
the first winter.  The Pieces OS got craapy fuel economy.  like 10-14 
for deetriot cars, and 6-12 for pickups.


This was a direct cause of the influx of japanese pickups and cars, 
under their own banner or under the banner of a deetriot giant. 
People did not want to buy a deetriot POS that was crappy, cost a 
fortune in fuel, and rusted out the first winter.  Robert McNamara's 
theory was proven wrong.


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Yes I noticed the brine for the first time last winter. It really made me mad 
when they brined the roads three weeks before the first snowfall. Salt exposure 
for nothing.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2011, at 10:12 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently salt is used 
on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust to some extent (and I'll 
count the cars my parents owned since I'm familiar with them).  Japanese, 
American, German... they all rust.

Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 10 years but 
it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed and fenders were like 
swiss cheese when I sold it.

I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also. 
Allan

Many states now put down brine in place of salt and sand.  My experience is 
that the brine causes cars to rust even faster.  The worst vehicles were in the 
mid 70s, after the second round of pollution restriction.  Many cars and trucks 
rusted through within the first winter.  The Pieces OS got craapy fuel economy. 
 like 10-14 for deetriot cars, and 6-12 for pickups.

This was a direct cause of the influx of japanese pickups and cars, under their 
own banner or under the banner of a deetriot giant. People did not want to buy 
a deetriot POS that was crappy, cost a fortune in fuel, and rusted out the 
first winter.  Robert McNamara's theory was proven wrong.

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Craig]

On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
 wrote:

> I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?

No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the roads
was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] rust

[RELNGSON]

> ...Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully 
> assembled
> 
MB is paying a lot more attention to corrosion in the newest cars and the 
all-stainless steel dual exhaust system on my 2008 is just one example. I 
think they may be a bit late to the party since Porsche has been building their 
bodies with zinc coated steel since 1976. Before that time, they could be 
rusted out before the last payment was due.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. 
Northern IL is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up 
there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
 wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the roads
was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Walt Zarnoch]

Yeah, NY kills cars... :(

Walt

On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 11:51 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:
>
> NY
> MA
> VT
> NH
>
> with honorable mention to:
> MI
>
> IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the southern
> half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern IL is probably
> at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY
>
> Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
>>  wrote:
>>
>>>  I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?
>>
>> No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the roads
>> was mixed with 10% salt.
>>
>> See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf
>>
>> and
>>
>>
>> http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/
>>
>> I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.
>>
>> Also,
>>
>> Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
>> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq
>>
>> That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.
>>
>> Other links:
>>
>> www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf
>>
>> http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
>> (from Colorado)
>>
>> http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm
>>
>>
>> http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
>> (even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).
>>
>> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Michael Canfield]

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust 
eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart.  going 
back together, most of the fits were like original so I could run the 
nuts on by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.


Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

I'm cleaning up some rust around the trim clip holes on front fender of my 
240D. One of them perforated and I had to weld the area closed. Naval jelly and 
POR-15 are my friends here. I'm doing what I can before the salt bath begins.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:25 AM, Michael Canfield  wrote:

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted tight, 
with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust eater ate the 
rust and I was able to get everything apart.  going back together, most of the 
fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Jim Cathey]

Well, there's always "English undercoating."

They salt here too, now, the b@$#@&ds.  The claim is that
the EPA made them do it.  They used to use sand, but then
there was too much particulate matter in the air (dust)
in the Spring.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for 
Mopar P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be 
able to look up the new one.  There is a photo of it here:


http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf



Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The 
rust eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. 
going back together, most of the fits were like original so I could 
run the nuts on by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Gerry Archer]

Autozone has "Rust Eater" which probably isn't as good as Mopar
but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
Gerry

From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar 
P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look 
up the new one.  There is a photo of it here:


http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf



Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust 
eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back 
together, most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on 
by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on 
cars

since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters. 
The

bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Michael Canfield]

Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike
On Nov 23, 2011 10:31 AM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:

> Autozone has "Rust Eater" which probably isn't as good as Mopar
> but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
> on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
> means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
> Gerry
>
> From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
>
>> from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar
>> P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look up
>> the new one.  There is a photo of it here:
>>
>> http://www.mopar.ca/en/**accessories/**inspectandreplaceexhaustsystem**
>> components.php
>>
>> There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
>> http://starparts.chrysler.com/**starlibrary/marketing/**
>> chemicals/chemicals.pdf
>>
>>
>>  Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
>>> I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted
>>> tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust eater
>>> ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back together,
>>> most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
>>> It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.
>>>
>>> Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to
>>> even
>>> drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
>>> putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
>>> Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
>>> local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on
>>> cars
>>> since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with
>>> cheap
>>> recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.
>>> The
>>> bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
>>> fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> __**_
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives 
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>>
>>>
>>> __**_
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>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>>
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>>> __**_
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>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>>
>> __**_
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>>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Curt Raymond]

Which reminds me I need to get a pump sprayer and coat the underside of my cars 
with oil before it gets too cold...

For rusty fasteners I've been using a Ford product that I found in my garage 
(left by the previous owner) which smells terrible but works a treat. Can't 
recall the name, starts with an R.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 06:28:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Dimitri Seretakis 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
Message-ID:
<1322058497.91191.yext-apple-iph...@web113207.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I'm cleaning up some rust around the trim clip holes on front fender of my 
240D. One of them perforated and I had to weld the area closed. Naval jelly and 
POR-15 are my friends here. I'm doing what I can before the salt bath begins.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:25 AM, Michael Canfield  wrote:

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was. I 
don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of the 
car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired but I 
think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body cavities is 
maybe better than it once was.


My wife's 07 Honda Accord appeared to have seam sealer etc that would 
have been applied while it was being built but lacked the solid black 
rubbery undercoating that the local new Honda's had at the time. That is 
why we had it sprayed by one of the local franchise outfits. They also 
drilled holes and sprayed the other stuff in the cavities. We have to 
take it back every 2nd year for touchups but are not charged for the 
inspection and repair.
I had my truck done too but it was not new enough to qualify for the 
long term warranty so I can take it in to be touched up but they will 
make me pay to have the repairs done and will not warranty it against rust.


My truck is an 02 F150 Supercrew. It is just now showing a spot on the 
bottom of the driver's side rocker panel that will need to be dealt 
with. The rest is good so far.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 6:19 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully assembled, the chassis and body are 
dipped in corrosion inhibitors.  Aftermarket undercoating, dealer "paint protection", and 
the like is largely a scam, basically adds nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got no 
anticorrosion treatment at the factory, it did a little.  But my parents paid to have an Izuzu 
(Buick Opel) "rustproofed" in the late '70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than 
any other car they owned.

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, "Randy Bennell"  
wrote:

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
rust situation on newer MBs.

http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
___



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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

In Manitoba, it is considered too cold during much of the winter for 
salt to help much on the highways. Nevertheless, the City of Winnipeg 
tends to salt intersections and as a result we get a bit of a regular 
salt bath if the weather permits - IE - if it warms up a bit and then 
snows a bit.


If, I make a run to Ontario in the winter (the cottage is on Lake of the 
Woods south of Kenora) then there is almost a line at the border where 
the road turns white. Ontario salts the heck out of the roads. Maybe 
justified as the hills and general terrain make the snow hang about more 
than in Manitoba where it tends to be more open and blow off of the roads.


Randy who does not wish to buy any used cars from Ontario!


On 22/11/2011 10:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern 
IL is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
 wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the 
roads

was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/ 



I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt 


(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig





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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[WILTON]

Ziebart in Sault Ste. Marie, ON, did a '71 Chrysler wagon for me in late 
'71.  'Sold it in sou. Cal. in '78 still like new.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Randy Bennell" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was. I 
don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of the car 
is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired but I think 
that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body cavities is maybe 
better than it once was.


My wife's 07 Honda Accord appeared to have seam sealer etc that would have 
been applied while it was being built but lacked the solid black rubbery 
undercoating that the local new Honda's had at the time. That is why we 
had it sprayed by one of the local franchise outfits. They also drilled 
holes and sprayed the other stuff in the cavities. We have to take it back 
every 2nd year for touchups but are not charged for the inspection and 
repair.
I had my truck done too but it was not new enough to qualify for the long 
term warranty so I can take it in to be touched up but they will make me 
pay to have the repairs done and will not warranty it against rust.


My truck is an 02 F150 Supercrew. It is just now showing a spot on the 
bottom of the driver's side rocker panel that will need to be dealt with. 
The rest is good so far.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 6:19 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully 
assembled, the chassis and body are dipped in corrosion inhibitors. 
Aftermarket undercoating, dealer "paint protection", and the like is 
largely a scam, basically adds nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got 
no anticorrosion treatment at the factory, it did a little.  But my 
parents paid to have an Izuzu (Buick Opel) "rustproofed" in the late 
'70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than any other car they 
owned.


Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, "Randy 
Bennell"  wrote:

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve 
it.


I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction 
with the rust situation on newer MBs.


http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

I am not disagreeing with that.  The mopar stuff eats rust.  there is 
a difference.  Different tools for different problems.


With the dogde struts, I could turn the nut, but the rust on the 1" 
or so of bolt sticking through the nut made it so tough that the bolt 
would break before the nut came off.  Yes, I could have worked the 
nut in and out repeatedly to get through the rust with or without 
penetrating oil.  The acetone/atf would help, but not take off the 
rust.


The Mopar stuff: I sprayed it on, waited maybe 20-30 minutes and was 
able to back the nut off.


If the nut is rust welded to the bolt, then the ATF/acetone is the tool.




Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike
On Nov 23, 2011 10:31 AM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:


 Autozone has "Rust Eater" which probably isn't as good as Mopar
 but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
 on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
 means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
 Gerry

 From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>


 from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar
 P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look up
 the new one.  There is a photo of it here:

 http://www.mopar.ca/en/**accessories/**inspectandreplaceexhaustsystem**

components.php

 There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
 http://starparts.chrysler.com/**starlibrary/marketing/**

chemicals/chemicals.pdf


  Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?


 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

 Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
 I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted
 tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The 
rust eater

 ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back together,
 most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
 It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

 Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to
 even
 drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
 putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
 Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
 local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on
 cars
 since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with
 cheap
 recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.
 The
 bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
 fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[WILTON]

And I won't buy one from Florida or farther north than VA.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Randy Bennell" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


In Manitoba, it is considered too cold during much of the winter for salt 
to help much on the highways. Nevertheless, the City of Winnipeg tends to 
salt intersections and as a result we get a bit of a regular salt bath if 
the weather permits - IE - if it warms up a bit and then snows a bit.


If, I make a run to Ontario in the winter (the cottage is on Lake of the 
Woods south of Kenora) then there is almost a line at the border where the 
road turns white. Ontario salts the heck out of the roads. Maybe justified 
as the hills and general terrain make the snow hang about more than in 
Manitoba where it tends to be more open and blow off of the roads.


Randy who does not wish to buy any used cars from Ontario!


On 22/11/2011 10:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern IL 
is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
 wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the 
roads

was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig





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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 11:27 AM, "Randy Bennell"  
wrote:

> I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was.
> I don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of
> the car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired
> but I think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body
> cavities is maybe better than it once was.

The waxy stuff is good.  That's what the VW had from the factory, on a
really hot day it would ooze out around some of the trim pieces.

The trouble with the black tar/ziebart treatment is I think it sealed up
the drains in the doors and other enclosed areas that they sprayed it
into, thereby trapping moisture and actually accelerating rust.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[OK Don]

Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
seems to work.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:

> Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.
>
> Mike
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[WILTON]

Wherever I could, I tried to make sure drains were open, poked with clothes 
hanger, etc., after treatment.  Obviously, not sure if I got all of 'em.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Allan Streib" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 11:27 AM, "Randy Bennell" 
 wrote:



I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was.
I don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of
the car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired
but I think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body
cavities is maybe better than it once was.


The waxy stuff is good.  That's what the VW had from the factory, on a
really hot day it would ooze out around some of the trim pieces.

The trouble with the black tar/ziebart treatment is I think it sealed up
the drains in the doors and other enclosed areas that they sprayed it
into, thereby trapping moisture and actually accelerating rust.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

On 23/11/2011 1:10 PM, OK Don wrote:

Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
seems to work.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfieldwrote:


Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike



I had essentially the same experience with non-synthetic AT fluid. It 
won't stay mixed for long for me either.


Also, remember to be very careful around paint. I assume the acetone 
would remove paint quite well.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Gerry Archer]

Might be interesting to add a dab of liquid soap to the mixture. Liquid
soap (sodium lauryl sulphate) is an emulsifier which might keep the oil in 
suspension. 
 
http://pharmacy.wilkes.edu/kibbeweb/lab6.html 

.or Tween 80 (not cheap)

http://www.bio-world.com/productinfo/4_847_64_486/125960/Tween-Polysorbate.html?gclid=CNenibOqzqwCFQ1X7AodLE3uqw
 

Gerry

From: "OK Don" 
> Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
> M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
> That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
> seems to work.
> 
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:
> 
>> Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.
>>
>> Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!!

[Tyler Backman]

It's a non-visible panel (from the outside of the car), right?

If so, get a wire brush on a drill and remove all of the old paint and  
bondo. Then coat whatever metal is left with POR-15 and call it good.  
I'd only add a patch panel if there is so much rust that it might  
weaken an important part, or if it's visible.

Sincerely,
Tyler William H Backman
1987 190D Turbo Biodiesel


On Sep 9, 2008, at 3:16 PM, LarryT wrote:

> While replacing a headlight wiring harness I found something I  
> thought my 91 didn;t have - rust.  The sheetmetal behind the  
> headlight on the passenger side (below the air filter) appears to  
> have been repaired following a fender bender.  I suspect the fender  
> and headlight unit was replaced but the horizontal sheetmetal looks  
> to have gotten the Bondo treatment.  It was covered with paint and  
> looked like huge welds under the paint - a few taps with a  
> screwdriver and a hole appeared.
>
> So, I'm not sure what to do - nothing (which I'm leaning to) after  
> putting some anti-rust on it - or trying to replace it with a small  
> patch panel.  I suspect the area will continue to rust if noting is  
> done and there's no gurantee I would find all the rust if I try to  
> replace it with a patch panel.
>
> Because of the heavy layer of paint, I cannot reach the rust from  
> the top - working on it from below is always a PITA.
>
> Anyone got any experience with this kind of stuff?  Suggestions?
>
> Thanks -
> Larry -
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Re: [MBZ] Rust Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!!

[LarryT]

Thx Tyler -
Good strategy - I'm a big believe in POR15 and their other products.  When 
restoring my 66 MGB I had the front fenders off for several years and the 
sheet metal inner fenders were exposed the whole time.  This was in my 
garage so weather wasn't severe.  But even in the relatively soft 
environment, it never even threatened to stop working.


- Original Message - 
From: "Tyler Backman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust Yuck!!!


> It's a non-visible panel (from the outside of the car), right?
>
> If so, get a wire brush on a drill and remove all of the old paint and
> bondo. Then coat whatever metal is left with POR-15 and call it good.
> I'd only add a patch panel if there is so much rust that it might
> weaken an important part, or if it's visible.
>
> Sincerely,
> Tyler William H Backman
> 1987 190D Turbo Biodiesel
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2008, at 3:16 PM, LarryT wrote:
>
>> While replacing a headlight wiring harness I found something I
>> thought my 91 didn;t have - rust.  The sheetmetal behind the
>> headlight on the passenger side (below the air filter) appears to
>> have been repaired following a fender bender.  I suspect the fender
>> and headlight unit was replaced but the horizontal sheetmetal looks
>> to have gotten the Bondo treatment.  It was covered with paint and
>> looked like huge welds under the paint - a few taps with a
>> screwdriver and a hole appeared.
>>
>> So, I'm not sure what to do - nothing (which I'm leaning to) after
>> putting some anti-rust on it - or trying to replace it with a small
>> patch panel.  I suspect the area will continue to rust if noting is
>> done and there's no gurantee I would find all the rust if I try to
>> replace it with a patch panel.
>>
>> Because of the heavy layer of paint, I cannot reach the rust from
>> the top - working on it from below is always a PITA.
>>
>> Anyone got any experience with this kind of stuff?  Suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks -
>> Larry -
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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Rich Thomas]

Hmmm, I just had a thought -- some of the craftsman wrenches are 
probably some chrome moly steel alloy, and the instructions are very 
specific about not using stainless steel in the setup because of chrome 
in SS makes some really nasty stuff.  You think it would suck chrome out 
of the tools?


--R

Rich Thomas wrote:
Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the 
top tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not 
a lot) as they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method 
a try, this web site looks like it has a good writeup


http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that 
seems like it might be OK though this guy says that might be too 
much.  I have a 5V power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it 
but probably not a lot. If I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal 
tray/basket and connect that to the cathode, will that make enough 
contact to make the process work?


--R

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Mountain Man]

--Rich wrote:
> You think it would suck chrome out of the tools?

Use the vinegar like the 2nd paragraph sez.
Apples are in season and vinegar is in high production - find someone
milking apples for cider and use apple cider vinegar.
Or, trade the old craftsman for new craftsman? - will they exchange
rusty tools?  I thought their warranty was satisfaction, not broken
only.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Jim Cathey]

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
Anyone suggest a better method?


I've had good luck with it.  I use a battery charger,
and washing soda.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Evaporust available at harbor freight.  It is what tool collectors use.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 8, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Rich Thomas  
wrote:

Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the top tray, 
which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not a lot) as they sat 
in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method a try, this web site looks 
like it has a good writeup

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems like it 
might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have a 5V power 
supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not a lot. If I put 
some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and connect that to the 
cathode, will that make enough contact to make the process work?

--R

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Rich Thomas]

Do you know what that stuff is?

--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Evaporust available at harbor freight.  It is what tool collectors use.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 8, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Rich Thomas  
wrote:

Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the top tray, 
which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not a lot) as they sat 
in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method a try, this web site looks 
like it has a good writeup

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems like it 
might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have a 5V power 
supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not a lot. If I put 
some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and connect that to the 
cathode, will that make enough contact to make the process work?

--R

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Chemical composition no, but it is kind to chrome.  Go to garagejournal.com and 
do a search for evaporust on their forum.  

--- On Sun, 11/8/09, Rich Thomas  wrote:

From: Rich Thomas 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Sunday, November 8, 2009, 10:47 PM

Do you know what that stuff is?

--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
> Evaporust available at harbor freight.  It is what tool collectors use.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 8, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Rich Thomas 
>  wrote:
>
> Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the top 
> tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not a lot) as 
> they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method a try, this web 
> site looks like it has a good writeup
>
> http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
>
> Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems like 
> it might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have a 5V 
> power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not a lot. If 
> I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and connect that to 
> the cathode, will that make enough contact to make the process work?
>
> --R
>
> ___
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>
>
>       
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Is it kind to plastic key heads on MB keys?  The keys to my new '95 are rusty, 
I suspect from being in sweaty pockets and rarely used (car sat for about 6 
months before I bought, if the PO told the truth).

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 1:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

Chemical composition no, but it is kind to chrome.  Go to garagejournal.com and 
do a search for evaporust on their forum.  

--- On Sun, 11/8/09, Rich Thomas  wrote:

From: Rich Thomas 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Sunday, November 8, 2009, 10:47 PM

Do you know what that stuff is?

--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
> Evaporust available at harbor freight.  It is what tool collectors use.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 8, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Rich Thomas 
>  wrote:
>
> Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the 
> top tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not 
> a lot) as they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method 
> a try, this web site looks like it has a good writeup
>
> http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
>
> Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems like 
> it might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have a 5V 
> power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not a lot. If 
> I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and connect that to 
> the cathode, will that make enough contact to make the process work?
>
> --R
>
> ___
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>
>
>       
>
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>   

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Don't know.  Would probably not use on plastic but you could suspend the metal 
part of the key in the stuff keeping the plastic out.  Or use some superfine 
steel wool and wd-40 or 3in1 oil and rub off the rust.

--- On Mon, 11/9/09, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
 wrote:

From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 9:42 AM

Is it kind to plastic key heads on MB keys?  The keys to my new '95 are rusty, 
I suspect from being in sweaty pockets and rarely used (car sat for about 6 
months before I bought, if the PO told the truth).

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 1:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

Chemical composition no, but it is kind to chrome.  Go to garagejournal.com and 
do a search for evaporust on their forum.  

--- On Sun, 11/8/09, Rich Thomas  wrote:

From: Rich Thomas 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Sunday, November 8, 2009, 10:47 PM

Do you know what that stuff is?

--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
> Evaporust available at harbor freight.  It is what tool collectors use.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 8, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Rich Thomas 
>  wrote:
>
> Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the 
> top tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not 
> a lot) as they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method 
> a try, this web site looks like it has a good writeup
>
> http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
>
> Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems like 
> it might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have a 5V 
> power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not a lot. If 
> I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and connect that to 
> the cathode, will that make enough contact to make the process work?
>
> --R
>
> ___
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
>       
>
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>   

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Re: [MBZ] rust repairs

[RELNGSON]

> ...Even there you could probably keep replacing the metal, but would sure 
> get expensive after a while...
> 
It gets expensive immediately if it's done right. If a car is just a blivet 
it won't be worth it.

RLE


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Re: [MBZ] rust repairs

[Dimitri Seretakis]

If it's truly done right then it's as permanent as the factory made it but very 
few people know or care to do it right.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 13, 2009, at 7:54 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

...Even there you could probably keep replacing the metal, but would sure 
get expensive after a while...

It gets expensive immediately if it's done right. If a car is just a blivet 
it won't be worth it.

RLE


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Re: [MBZ] Rust protection

[Fmiser]

rumor has it that Dan wrote:

> Great! I'll switch! Where do you find the stuff?
> 
> Dan
> 
> > I heartily recommend LPS2/3 for fighting the formation of rust.
> > WD-40 only works if you spray it hourly!
> > 
> > Marshall

If you know a general aviation mechanic, he can likely get it for you.

I get mine from MCM Electronics. Great place for lots of electronic
goodies. And the have LPS

http://www.mcmelectronics.com

-- Philip

Re: [MBZ] Rust protection

[John Peterson]

I have used in the past the Corrosion X sold at marine stores, an 
aerosol that is often used on inboard and outboard marine engines.


It works wonderful.

John Peterson
Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5


Dan Weeks wrote:

Great! I'll switch! Where do you find the stuff?

Dan

I heartily recommend LPS2/3 for fighting the formation of rust. WD-40
only works if you spray it hourly!

Marshall
  

Re: [MBZ] Rust protection

[Dan Weeks]

Thanks, John! I'll look for it.

Dan



Message: 1
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2006 14:33:30 -0400
From: John Peterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust protection
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I have used in the past the Corrosion X sold at marine stores, an
aerosol that is often used on inboard and outboard marine engines.

It works wonderful.

John Peterson
Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5


Dan Weeks wrote:

 Great! I'll switch! Where do you find the stuff?

 Dan

 I heartily recommend LPS2/3 for fighting the formation of rust. WD-40
 only works if you spray it hourly!

 Marshall
 




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End of Mercedes Digest, Vol 9, Issue 20
***



--
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Freelance Writing and Photography
515/279-4825
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Rust free

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

You should get that and flip it to the FB morons

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Apr 4, 2019, at 10:22 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 1978 MERCEDES 300D
> 
> https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/wichita-1978-mercedes-300d/6858309572.html
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rust free

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

99k miles...

Unlikely.

On Thu, Apr 4, 2019, 11:20 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> You should get that and flip it to the FB morons
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
>
> > On Apr 4, 2019, at 10:22 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > 1978 MERCEDES 300D
> >
> >
> https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/wichita-1978-mercedes-300d/6858309572.html
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > ___
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost

[andrew strasfogel]

What car??

On 7/30/07, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I've got a little bit of rust near the top of the windshield.  It
> doesn't look like much, but I'm sure its horrible underneath the
> windshield seal. Either the rust or a bad seal is causing a *lot* of
> wind noise and even some water to leak in from that area.  I was quoted
> just under $1000 for this repair (and thats if they can re-use the
> windshield! Add another 200 for a PPG replacement).  The biggest cost
> was nearly 12 hours of labor for body work, and another 10 hours for
> paint prep and painting.
>
> Unfortunately I think this is in-line for a quality repair... what do
> you guys think?  I'm going to get another quote tomorrow I think.
>
> See attached for pictures of the rust.
>
> John
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost

[John Robbins]

92 300D

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> What car??


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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost

[andrew strasfogel]

That's so new!  Ouch.

On 7/31/07, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 92 300D
>
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
> > What car??
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost

[BillR]

John, the only rust on my '81 300SD was under the rear windshield.  I found
it when replacing both windshields, and the rear one could not be
reinstalled until it was rebuilt.  The shop had to cut out and rebuild at
least half of the lower shelf.  Much worse than yours shows, but no doubt an
easier spot to work. It was done well [but not show quality] and the cost
was about $400. Decent body shop was $37.50 an hour. 
BillR 
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD 292k miles

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Robbins
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 1:43 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rust repair cost

I've got a little bit of rust near the top of the windshield.  It doesn't
look like much, but I'm sure its horrible underneath the windshield seal.
Either the rust or a bad seal is causing a *lot* of wind noise and even some
water to leak in from that area.  I was quoted just under $1000 for this
repair (and thats if they can re-use the windshield! Add another 200 for a
PPG replacement).  The biggest cost was nearly 12 hours of labor for body
work, and another 10 hours for paint prep and painting.

Unfortunately I think this is in-line for a quality repair... what do you
guys think?  I'm going to get another quote tomorrow I think.

See attached for pictures of the rust.

John



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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

geez, you have rust problems on that car?

John Robbins wrote:
> 92 300D
> 
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>> What car??
> 
> 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, (2x) 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 87 300TD, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Rust and speed

[Rick Knoble]

I can second that. I traded a rust bucket 356B with a VW engine for a Sunbeam 
Alpine once.
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   The iconic 356 was worse. During the restoration of my friend SJB's '56 
Speedster, replacing the rusted sections cost 13 grand.

Re: [MBZ] Rust stains on concrete

[Harry Watkins]

A product named "Iron Out" does a good job.  I got mine at Walmarts

Harry

On Nov 18, 2007 10:47 AM, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Anyone know how to get rust stains out of concrete?
>
> We had a tubular steel lawn chair on our patio which collected water over
> the summer. When Shirley moved it recently, the now-rusty water spilled
> out and left some stains.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost (124)

[Alex Chamberlain]

John Robbins wrote:
> I've got a little bit of rust near the top of the windshield.  It doesn't
> look like much, but I'm sure its horrible underneath the windshield seal.
> Either the rust or a bad seal is causing a *lot* of wind noise and even some
> water to leak in from that area.  I was quoted just under $1000 for this
> repair (and thats if they can re-use the windshield! Add another 200 for a
> PPG replacement).  The biggest cost was nearly 12 hours of labor for body
> work, and another 10 hours for paint prep and painting.

Sounds about right to me just given the numbers.  Maybe $300 for parts
(custom mixed paint, mostly) and then the rest for labor at about
$30/hr?  But why so much labor---are they planning to strip all the
trim in order to paint?

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al

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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost (124)

[John Robbins]

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
> John Robbins wrote:
> Sounds about right to me just given the numbers.  Maybe $300 for parts
> (custom mixed paint, mostly) and then the rest for labor at about
> $30/hr?  But why so much labor---are they planning to strip all the
> trim in order to paint?

I have no idea... I think it was just a worst case thing (I hope!) since 
I can imagine a lot of people getting pissy about it costing $400 more 
than an estimate.  For normal stuff thats probably not a problem 
(replacing bent up bumpers, etc), but this problem they won't really 
know how long till they get the window out.

Next time I go back there I'll ask them what all they plan on taking off 
(I don't think the trim that goes up the side of the window down the 
rest of the car is removable is it?)

John

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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost (124)

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 8/1/07, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Next time I go back there I'll ask them what all they plan on taking off
> (I don't think the trim that goes up the side of the window down the
> rest of the car is removable is it?)

The black strip that runs along the edge of the roof, where the
raingutter is on an older car?  If your '92 is like my '87, it is
indeed removable.  When I had my windshield replaced last summer, the
installers popped each side off in one piece, continuous (just as it
appears to be) with the molding up the sides of the windshield.  They
got it back on with no apparent damage, too (although this was a shop
recommended by my mechanic, with a lot of experience with old
Mercedes).

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al

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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost (124)

[LWB250]

You must have a special tool or have made one to
reinstall the rain gutter trim on the 123 chassis.  I
would not encourage anyone who doesn't have the tool
or access to one to attempt replacement, as it's a
near-impossible job without it.

That's not to say you can't do it (I have) but having
BTDT, it is not for the faint of heart, a car with a
fresh paint job, or one with limited manual dexterity.

It's especially difficult if you're using new trim, as
it has to be formed to match the shape of the car.  If
you don't know what you're doing, you'll almost
definitely screw it up, or if you're living right,
have parts of it that won't stay in place and want to
pop off all the time.

Dan (who has field stripped 123 and 126 chassis cars
and has the scars to show for it)


--- Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On 8/1/07, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Next time I go back there I'll ask them what all
> they plan on taking off
> > (I don't think the trim that goes up the side of
> the window down the
> > rest of the car is removable is it?)
> 
> The black strip that runs along the edge of the
> roof, where the
> raingutter is on an older car?  If your '92 is like
> my '87, it is
> indeed removable.  When I had my windshield replaced
> last summer, the
> installers popped each side off in one piece,
> continuous (just as it
> appears to be) with the molding up the sides of the
> windshield.  They
> got it back on with no apparent damage, too
> (although this was a shop
> recommended by my mechanic, with a lot of experience
> with old
> Mercedes).
> 
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo et al
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost (124)

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 8/1/07, LWB250 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You must have a special tool or have made one to
> reinstall the rain gutter trim on the 123 chassis.  I
> would not encourage anyone who doesn't have the tool
> or access to one to attempt replacement, as it's a
> near-impossible job without it.

John and I are talking about 124s here.  :)  I'm sure you are right
about the 123, Dan---if anyone knows you would!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost (124)

[LWB250]

Sorry about that!

IIRC, the 126 and 124 rain gutter trim is held on by
some phillips head screws from the bottom of the door
frames, isn't it?

Dan


--- Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> John and I are talking about 124s here.  :)  I'm
> sure you are right
> about the 123, Dan---if anyone knows you would!
> 
> Alex
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair cost (124)

[John Robbins]

LWB250 wrote:
> IIRC, the 126 and 124 rain gutter trim is held on by
> some phillips head screws from the bottom of the door
> frames, isn't it?

Thanks guys for all the info!  So it appears that this estimate is 
fairly inline, and that there isn't a very specific tool needed (like 
the 123 cars).  Good stuff to know :)  Hopefully when they get in there 
they don't find tons more :(

John

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Re: [MBZ] Rust Removal Using Electrolysis

[Christopher McCann]

My friend did this but used molasses instead of Super Washing Soda. It worked 
great. I bet the soda is cheaper than molasses.

Thanks!

CM


Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Some of the listers have used this 
process -- here is a little tutorial 
on a couple of methods.  One is by a (gasp!) Land Rover guy but is very 
detailed.

--R

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/09/rust_removal_using_electr.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890

links to
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/rust-removal-using-electrolysis-63065.html
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Peter T. Arnold]

OK, I flush car off with hot water.

Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.



On 12/3/2010 10:01 AM, theprofil...@dwx.com wrote:





  I also flushed the car after each snowstorm with a lot of hot water from a 
high-pressure spray nozzle on a garden hose--enough to melt all
the slush off and rinse every cranny until the water came off clear. Just running through 
the car wash "undercarriage spray" does more harm than good--saturates the salt 
and slush that's already
there, but doesn't remove it. I let the car dry outside, then store it inside, 
but only because I hate scraping snow and ice off it before work every morning.

Dan
82 300SD
336K FOR SALE $500 needs trans flush and alt installed
Des Moines



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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold  wrote:

> OK, I flush car off with hot water.
>
> Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.
>
>
>
> On 12/3/2010 10:01 AM, theprofil...@dwx.com wrote:
>
>> 
>>
>
>   I also flushed the car after each snowstorm with a lot of hot water from
>> a high-pressure spray nozzle on a garden hose--enough to melt all
>> the slush off and rinse every cranny until the water came off clear. Just
>> running through the car wash "undercarriage spray" does more harm than
>> good--saturates the salt and slush that's already
>> there, but doesn't remove it. I let the car dry outside, then store it
>> inside, but only because I hate scraping snow and ice off it before work
>> every morning.
>>
>> Dan
>> 82 300SD
>> 336K FOR SALE $500 needs trans flush and alt installed
>> Des Moines
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Allan Streib]

Be careful hitting cold glass with hot water.  I've cracked a headlight doing 
that.

Allan


On Fri, 03 Dec 2010 10:25 -0500, "Peter T. Arnold"  wrote:
> OK, I flush car off with hot water.
> 
> Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.
> 
> 
> 
> On 12/3/2010 10:01 AM, theprofil...@dwx.com wrote:
> > 
> 
> >   I also flushed the car after each snowstorm with a lot of hot water from 
> > a high-pressure spray nozzle on a garden hose--enough to melt all
> > the slush off and rinse every cranny until the water came off clear. Just 
> > running through the car wash "undercarriage spray" does more harm than 
> > good--saturates the salt and slush that's already
> > there, but doesn't remove it. I let the car dry outside, then store it 
> > inside, but only because I hate scraping snow and ice off it before work 
> > every morning.
> >
> > Dan
> > 82 300SD
> > 336K FOR SALE $500 needs trans flush and alt installed
> > Des Moines
> >

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Curt Raymond]

I've noticed that on my 201s as well although I've never had to pour water on. 

On the 123s I've seen an annoying tendency for the locks to freeze. I generally 
keep a wind proof lighter (the one like a small torch) around, it doesn't take 
much heat to clear it up. I've tried all kinds of magic substances (including 
graphite and other lock gunk) but nothing seems to help. These days I don't 
lock the doors much so I don't worry...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2010 10:41:22 -0500
From: E M 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold  wrote:

> OK, I flush car off with hot water.
>
> Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.


  
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Dieselhead]

Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.



That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E


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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 10:10 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> Be careful hitting cold glass with hot water.  I've cracked a headlight doing 
> that.
>

I've cracked a windshield doing that (on my old SLC)!  That's a costly
mistake to learn from...

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 10:44 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.
>

Talcum powder works well too.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

I've used talc on rubber door gaskets too.  Works quite well.  Bit more
forgiving on the winter jackets too. ;-)

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 13:55, Alex Chamberlain  wrote:

> On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 10:44 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.
> >
>
> Talcum powder works well too.
>
> Alex
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Craig]

On Fri, 3 Dec 2010 12:44:49 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.

But don't you want to keep WD40 away from painted surfaces?

How about glycerine?

The talc idea sounds pretty good.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Walt Zarnoch]

Hard car wax/candle wax works as well, and is a bit less messy.

Walt
On Dec 3, 2010 2:43 PM, "Craig"  wrote:
> On Fri, 3 Dec 2010 12:44:49 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.
>
> But don't you want to keep WD40 away from painted surfaces?
>
> How about glycerine?
>
> The talc idea sounds pretty good.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

I think my old porsche manual recommends talc on the door gaskets.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 14:42, Craig  wrote:

> On Fri, 3 Dec 2010 12:44:49 -0600 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.
>
> But don't you want to keep WD40 away from painted surfaces?
>
> How about glycerine?
>
> The talc idea sounds pretty good.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craig  wrote:
> The talc idea sounds pretty good.

It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
on your clothes.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[WILTON]

And smells nice.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Alex Chamberlain" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality



On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craig  wrote:

The talc idea sounds pretty good.


It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
on your clothes.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Greg Fiorentino]

I have had pretty good luck (on the wife's '79 300TD) with spraying a key
with 100% silicone spray and working it in the lock.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 10:15 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

I've noticed that on my 201s as well although I've never had to pour water
on. 

On the 123s I've seen an annoying tendency for the locks to freeze. I
generally keep a wind proof lighter (the one like a small torch) around, it
doesn't take much heat to clear it up. I've tried all kinds of magic
substances (including graphite and other lock gunk) but nothing seems to
help. These days I don't lock the doors much so I don't worry...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2010 10:41:22 -0500
From: E M 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold  wrote:

> OK, I flush car off with hot water.
>
> Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.


  
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Walt Zarnoch]

The one problem with any "wet" non-evaporative lubricant in a lock, is that
it will hold dirt/dust/lint/grime/etc.

That being said, it does work wonders when you're in a pinch.

Walt
On Dec 3, 2010 3:05 PM, "Greg Fiorentino"  wrote:
> I have had pretty good luck (on the wife's '79 300TD) with spraying a key
> with 100% silicone spray and working it in the lock.
>
> Greg
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
> On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
> Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 10:15 AM
> To: Diesel List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
>
> I've noticed that on my 201s as well although I've never had to pour water
> on.
>
> On the 123s I've seen an annoying tendency for the locks to freeze. I
> generally keep a wind proof lighter (the one like a small torch) around,
it
> doesn't take much heat to clear it up. I've tried all kinds of magic
> substances (including graphite and other lock gunk) but nothing seems to
> help. These days I don't lock the doors much so I don't worry...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2010 10:41:22 -0500
> From: E M 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
> that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of
frozen
> ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
> into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get
into
> it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.
>
> Ed
> 300E
>
> On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold  wrote:
>
>> OK, I flush car off with hot water.
>>
>> Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.
>
>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Peter T. Arnold]

Silicone spay works better and no mess or smell.

-Pete-

On 12/3/2010 1:44 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.



That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of 
frozen

ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to 
get into

it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E


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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

I think I mentioned the story before, where a guy was spraying down his race
car in the pits with Pledge, between practice lap.  When asked, "do you find
the wax reduces drag and gives you better lap times?".  He replied, "No, but
it makes the cars smell pretty."  hee hee

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 15:03, WILTON  wrote:

> And smells nice.
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message - From: "Alex Chamberlain" <
> apchamberl...@gmail.com>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 2:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
>
>
>  On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craig  wrote:
>>
>>> The talc idea sounds pretty good.
>>>
>>
>> It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
>> you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
>> on your clothes.
>>
>> Alex
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[R A Bennell]

Also makes it easy to remove the bugs. I used Pledge on the windshield 
of my Goldwing.


Randy

On 03/12/2010 3:12 PM, E M wrote:

I think I mentioned the story before, where a guy was spraying down his race
car in the pits with Pledge, between practice lap.  When asked, "do you find
the wax reduces drag and gives you better lap times?".  He replied, "No, but
it makes the cars smell pretty."  hee hee

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 15:03, WILTON  wrote:


And smells nice.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Alex Chamberlain"<
apchamberl...@gmail.com>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality


  On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craig  wrote:

The talc idea sounds pretty good.


It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
on your clothes.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Bill Gallagher]

Plug the little holes:
   Buy some professional exposy paint and apply thin coats until holes 
are filled . make sure surface is bare metal..


Bill
1981 300 TD


redghost wrote:

Jim Cathey is my new best friend.  Curse Jim.

When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check 
Gump's trunk.  We found that there was a lake under the rubber and 
trunk liner.  Lots of rusty looking stuff.  Thought I would wait until 
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.


Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the 
liner out and sopped up the water.  Really nasty looking rust staining 
everywhere.  Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the 
dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating.  All the way 
down to bare painted metal or rust.


Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger 
than a dime.  There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from 
starboard to port in a channel.  Guess where the most rust through is.  
YEP!  right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks 
seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal.


First question -

What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes?  I have 
already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe 
Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection.


Second question -

How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern 
back to the rest of the car?  Can I have a panel made with the channel 
and weld that in?  It would cover the access to the tank sender



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Jim Cathey]

Jim Cathey is my new best friend.  Curse Jim.


Sorry, dude!


When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
Gump's trunk.  We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
trunk liner.  Lots of rusty looking stuff.  Thought I would wait until
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.


That stuff lurks.  Sneaks up on ya.


How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern
back to the rest of the car?  Can I have a panel made with the channel
and weld that in?  It would cover the access to the tank sender


The official way is to get a new trunk floor and have it welded in.
It can be surprisingly less expensive than you might think, or not.
Quotes can be extremely variable, I hit about six body shops before
I found the one that fixed the rust in the SL.  It got a new trunk
floor.  Well, part of one.  I bought the crash piece and the guy
cut it up to get what he needed out of it.  His price was
substantially less than half of anybody else's.  I suggest you
explore bodywork purveyors in the low-rent district, wherever
that is in your area.  Here, it was Hillyard.  I've had good
luck with auto repair labor in Hillyard.  Hungry, and inexpensive.
Last time was two weeks ago when I got the 240D's seat cover
repaired at an upholstery shop.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

I am planning on having BiL see if he can weld it up. He likes to 
hammer and zap metal.  Makes his own stuff for the jeeps.  So I have to 
go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?  Looks like I am 
headed to harbor freight to get a cordless nibbler


On Tuesday, April 4, 2006, at 11:10 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


Jim Cathey is my new best friend.  Curse Jim.


Sorry, dude!


When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
Gump's trunk.  We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
trunk liner.  Lots of rusty looking stuff.  Thought I would wait until
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.


That stuff lurks.  Sneaks up on ya.

How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the 
stern

back to the rest of the car?  Can I have a panel made with the channel
and weld that in?  It would cover the access to the tank sender


The official way is to get a new trunk floor and have it welded in.
It can be surprisingly less expensive than you might think, or not.
Quotes can be extremely variable, I hit about six body shops before
I found the one that fixed the rust in the SL.  It got a new trunk
floor.  Well, part of one.  I bought the crash piece and the guy
cut it up to get what he needed out of it.  His price was
substantially less than half of anybody else's.  I suggest you
explore bodywork purveyors in the low-rent district, wherever
that is in your area.  Here, it was Hillyard.  I've had good
luck with auto repair labor in Hillyard.  Hungry, and inexpensive.
Last time was two weeks ago when I got the 240D's seat cover
repaired at an upholstery shop.

-- Jim


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Jim Cathey]

So I have to go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?


Hey, and good luck with that!  (I don't think I've ever seen one.)
What's new trunk floor metal cost?  (Crash part.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

Will POR-15 build up enough for rejoining the two halves of sheet into 
one?  I suspect that it wants to be a bearing piece not just cosmetic.  
From the muck I ground up while dealing with the rust, I think after 
one fender bender or trunk crunch, it was coated with spray 
undercoating.  Not that it helped.  It just made is sticky.


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 07:53 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

POR15 should be your new best friend. Check out their website, they 
have a variety of good stuff over there. You could either just glob 
the paint on if the holes are really tiny and the structure of the 
metal is not compromised or use it with some fiberglass matte to build 
up strength. They also make a putty version of the stuff for filling 
larger areas.
  I used it to seal a snowmobile gas tank a couple years ago and its 
been just great. I also used it on a lawnmower deck last spring. I 
haven't mowed with that yet but after a winter of sitting out in the 
snow none of the rust has come back. I just wirebrushed the worst of 
the rust off, use the 2 treatment chemicals and just brushed on the 
paint.
  Anywhere its going to be exposed to sunlight you need to topcoat but 
in a trunk you'd be okay.


  Be aware also that most normal primer is porus so rust will develop 
under it just as fast or faster than baremetal.


  -Curt

  Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 19:47:48 -0700
From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  Subject: [MBZ] Rust in the 
trunk  To: Mercedes list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Jim Cathey is my new best friend.  Curse Jim.

When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
Gump's trunk.  We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
trunk liner.  Lots of rusty looking stuff.  Thought I would wait until
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.

Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the
liner out and sopped up the water.  Really nasty looking rust staining
everywhere.  Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the
dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating.  All the way
down to bare painted metal or rust.

Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger
than a dime.  There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from
starboard to port in a channel.  Guess where the most rust through is.
YEP!  right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks
seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal.

First question -

What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes?  I have
already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe
Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection.

Second question -

How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern
back to the rest of the car?  Can I have a panel made with the channel
and weld that in?  It would cover the access to the tank sender


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz



-
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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

I have no idea of cost, I am going to hit Pacific Iron and see what 
they have in the way of thin sheet metal to form a pan or patch



On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:19 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


So I have to go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?


Hey, and good luck with that!  (I don't think I've ever seen one.)
What's new trunk floor metal cost?  (Crash part.)

-- Jim


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Alex Chamberlain]

Don't forget to raid the Goodwill for broken microwaves!  ;)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

On 4/5/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have no idea of cost, I am going to hit Pacific Iron and see what
> they have in the way of thin sheet metal to form a pan or patch
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:19 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> >> So I have to go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?
> >
> > Hey, and good luck with that!  (I don't think I've ever seen one.)
> > What's new trunk floor metal cost?  (Crash part.)
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
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> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Jim Cathey]

Don't forget to raid the Goodwill for broken microwaves!  ;)


St. Vinnie's is much better for that sort of thing.

-- Jim