Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Someday when I have big money I'll turn my 1 car into a 2 1/2 car (which will 
take up all the available width) and get something like this. I'm impressed 
with how inexpensive that is...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 17:17:40 -0400
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 My ceiling is 9'6 

This is 9'3, just remember my prior comment about sticking your car roof 
through the ceiling:
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp7a-d.htm


  
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Me three. When I do it I want 220v out in the garage. Thats only maybe 10 feet 
from the house. When I do that I want a subpanel in the garage with at least 3 
30a circuits so I can run the welder (which requires a 20a) through its 
complete duty cycle without tripping a breaker. Right now if the welder starts 
to get hot it'll trip the breaker. I can weld about 2 continuous before it 
trips...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 16:28:18 -0500
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=iso-8859-1

That is cool. I need to do the same thing. We have 100 Amp service panel and I 
want to move to 200 Amp.

Randy


  
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread andrew strasfogel
As a practical matter, can someone 1) compute how much shipping would cost,
and 2) outline the cost and steps  needed to get it into the garage and
installed (let alone the electrical hook up)?


On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 9:43 AM, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Someday when I have big money I'll turn my 1 car into a 2 1/2 car (which
 will take up all the available width) and get something like this. I'm
 impressed with how inexpensive that is...

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 17:17:40 -0400
 From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
  My ceiling is 9'6

 This is 9'3, just remember my prior comment about sticking your car roof
 through the ceiling:
 http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp7a-d.htm



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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Trampas
You do not want the cable across floor. You want the clear floor version.
Trust me the first time your cart, transmission jack, etc gets stuck on the
bump on floor you will wish you paid extra for clear floor version. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 10:21 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

As a practical matter, can someone 1) compute how much shipping would cost,
and 2) outline the cost and steps  needed to get it into the garage and
installed (let alone the electrical hook up)?


On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 9:43 AM, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Someday when I have big money I'll turn my 1 car into a 2 1/2 car (which
 will take up all the available width) and get something like this. I'm
 impressed with how inexpensive that is...

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 17:17:40 -0400
 From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
  My ceiling is 9'6

 This is 9'3, just remember my prior comment about sticking your car roof
 through the ceiling:
 http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp7a-d.htm



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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Jim Cathey
 When I do that I want a subpanel in the garage with at least 3 30a 
 circuits so I can run the welder (which requires a 20a) through its 
 complete duty cycle without tripping a breaker.

The usual 220V welder plug is something like a 30A small version of
a clothes drier plug.  10-gauge (30A) wire at a minimum, my welder
(and range, and RV, it's a triplet installation) uses 8-gauge (40A)
wire.  I backfeed Big Bertha through one of these plugs when I'm
running the house on that generator.  Poor little 140A generator
is limited to a 40A feed!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Ahh, my welder is 110v I should have said. I don't have any 220v out in the 
garage right now. I should though, everything is a little less expensive if you 
can use 220v, welder, compressor, etc.

-Curt

--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 10:44 AM

 When I do that I want a subpanel in the garage with at least 3 30a 
 circuits so I can run the welder (which requires a 20a) through its 
 complete duty cycle without tripping a breaker.

The usual 220V welder plug is something like a 30A small version of
a clothes drier plug.  10-gauge (30A) wire at a minimum, my welder
(and range, and RV, it's a triplet installation) uses 8-gauge (40A)
wire.  I backfeed Big Bertha through one of these plugs when I'm
running the house on that generator.  Poor little 140A generator
is limited to a 40A feed!

-- Jim




  
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Tom Hargrave
220V equipment is not necessarily less expensive. It's only less expensive
if its more efficient and the $$$ saved more than offsets the additional
cost, which is rarely the case in a home garage.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 10:01 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; Jim Cathey
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

Ahh, my welder is 110v I should have said. I don't have any 220v out in the
garage right now. I should though, everything is a little less expensive if
you can use 220v, welder, compressor, etc.

-Curt

--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 10:44 AM

 When I do that I want a subpanel in the garage with at least 3 30a 
 circuits so I can run the welder (which requires a 20a) through its 
 complete duty cycle without tripping a breaker.

The usual 220V welder plug is something like a 30A small version of
a clothes drier plug.  10-gauge (30A) wire at a minimum, my welder
(and range, and RV, it's a triplet installation) uses 8-gauge (40A)
wire.  I backfeed Big Bertha through one of these plugs when I'm
running the house on that generator.  Poor little 140A generator
is limited to a 40A feed!

-- Jim




  
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Curt Raymond
In the stuff I've been looking at the 220v is usually a little less expensive 
or I can get the seller to move a little on the price.
For instance:
I was looking for a compressor from Harbor Freight. They didn't have the 110v 
unit, the 220v was like $10 cheaper anyway and the sales lady offered to take 
another $20 off. I should have bought it...

Looks to still be true: 
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94667 is 110v, 
$229
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93271 220v $209

-Curt

--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 11:07 AM

220V equipment is not necessarily less expensive. It's only less expensive
if its more efficient and the $$$ saved more than offsets the additional
cost, which is rarely the case in a home garage.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 10:01 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; Jim Cathey
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

Ahh, my welder is 110v I should have said. I don't have any 220v out in the
garage right now. I should though, everything is a little less expensive if
you can use 220v, welder, compressor, etc.

-Curt

--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 10:44 AM

 When I do that I want a subpanel in the garage with at least 3 30a 
 circuits so I can run the welder (which requires a 20a) through its 
 complete duty cycle without tripping a breaker.

The usual 220V welder plug is something like a 30A small version of
a clothes drier plug.  10-gauge (30A) wire at a minimum, my welder
(and range, and RV, it's a triplet installation) uses 8-gauge (40A)
wire.  I backfeed Big Bertha through one of these plugs when I'm
running the house on that generator.  Poor little 140A generator
is limited to a 40A feed!

-- Jim




  
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.6.7/1628 - Release Date: 8/22/2008
6:32 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.6.7/1628 - Release Date: 8/22/2008
6:32 PM
 




  
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley
Curt Raymond wrote:
 Someday when I have big money I'll turn my 1 car into a 2 1/2 car (which will 
 take up all the available width) and get something like this. I'm impressed 
 with how inexpensive that is...
 
 http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp7a-d.htm

Like Andy said, $500 or so to ship it to the east coast, so delivered price 
isn't quite as stunning.

There are a couple of places within a hundred miles of me that sell 9000lb 
lifts 
for $1300-1600. If they'll load it in my truck for me, it'd be worth it to save 
the freight charges. I like the clear floor versions (syncro cables or chains 
run overhead instead of across the floor), but those need 12-13' of ceiling.

My house plans are for a raised two story colonial, with half of the basement 
above ground, attached 13' garage ceiling level with the first story ceiling of 
the house, and the 2nd story running full length over the garage and first 
story.
That was the least amount of building materials and surface area that I could 
come up with to enclose a good size home and a tall three car garage.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Mitch Haley
Curt Raymond wrote:
 Me three. When I do it I want 220v out in the garage. Thats only maybe 10 
 feet from the house.

When I do it, I want to put 200A service panel in the garage, on the wall it 
shares with the house. I'll put all the 240v loads (water heater and well pump 
in basement, kitchen stove on first floor, dryer on 2nd floor, welder and 
compressor in garage) within 10' of that wall. Copper is getting to be 
expensive.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Allan Streib
My garage has two separate 220V 30A outlets.  The prior owner had a
welder and air compressor that both took 220.

A neighbor has 3-phase to run his machine shop tools, which he somehow
creates by running a 3 phase motor and tapping off of it.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-23 Thread Jim Cathey
 A neighbor has 3-phase to run his machine shop tools, which he somehow
 creates by running a 3 phase motor and tapping off of it.

It's called a rotary converter.  Think of it as a rotating
transformer.  The motor is manually spun to get it turning
then power is applied to one phase.  It'll spin up to speed.
Power is then available off the other two phases, though there
is some slip so that the phase power is not exactly on
120-degree spacing.  Good enough, though.

I have three-phase 140A/208-240V power available in my garage,
courtesy of Big Bertha!  I've never yet used it.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread Mitch Haley
andrew strasfogel wrote:
 I think that unless I can walk beneath the car w/o crouching, it makes more
 sense to get the low rise lift rather than a post lift.

With a 9 1/2' ceiling, the floor of the car will be less than 6' in most cases. 
You decide whether it's easier to stoop a bit or get a chair on wheels.
The two post lift leaves a lot more open space under the car than a scissors 
lift, which gets in the way to various extents when doing tranny, driveshaft, 
or 
exhaust work. The drive on lifts are foolproof, just put the wheels on the 
rails 
and hit the lift button, but they don't let you remove the wheels. Drive ons 
are 
great for oil changes, except for MBZ, which you don't need to get under to 
drain the oil.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread andrew strasfogel
Good points - thanks, Mitch.  I guess the two post drive-on lift rules out
brake work...

Also, it requires 220 volts.  How big a deal is that?  Our garage is
detached, about 75' from the house.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread andrew strasfogel
Good points - thanks, Mitch.  I guess the two post drive-on lift rules out
brake work...

Also, it requires 220 volts.  How big a deal is that?  Our garage is
detached, about 75' from the house.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread R A Bennell
How much power do you have in the garage now?  I have 220 V in  mine but only 
30 Amps as I ran #10 cable
underground when we built it. Now I wish I had gone with a minimum of #8 so I 
could run 40 Amps or more. My welders
want more power. If I try to run at the higher amperages, I blow breakers. The 
underground cable is a bit pricy so
it will cost some money to run the bigger line out. My garage is only 40 feet 
or so from the house but also a mess
to dig in the new line.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


Good points - thanks, Mitch.  I guess the two post drive-on lift rules out
brake work...

Also, it requires 220 volts.  How big a deal is that?  Our garage is
detached, about 75' from the house.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread andrew strasfogel
How much power?  I dunno, but we recently had a heavy up in the house so I
guess there is adequate capacity.

On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 1:14 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How much power do you have in the garage now?  I have 220 V in  mine but
 only 30 Amps as I ran #10 cable
 underground when we built it. Now I wish I had gone with a minimum of #8 so
 I could run 40 Amps or more. My welders
 want more power. If I try to run at the higher amperages, I blow breakers.
 The underground cable is a bit pricy so
 it will cost some money to run the bigger line out. My garage is only 40
 feet or so from the house but also a mess
 to dig in the new line.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
 Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:54 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


  Good points - thanks, Mitch.  I guess the two post drive-on lift rules
 out
 brake work...

 Also, it requires 220 volts.  How big a deal is that?  Our garage is
 detached, about 75' from the house.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread R A Bennell
What is a heavy up?

By power, I mean what currently runs from the house to the garage? Is there a 
sub-panel in the garage with breakers
or fuses? How would you turn off the power to the garage from the house end? 
Are there breakers at the house end
that you would use to shut off the power to the garage? That alone would tell 
you what is now available. If you
look at the wiring at the house end or the garage end it will also tell you 
whether there is any additional
capacity available in the sense of possibly having wire that exceeds could be 
fused at a higher amperage.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


How much power?  I dunno, but we recently had a heavy up in the house so I
guess there is adequate capacity.

On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 1:14 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How much power do you have in the garage now?  I have 220 V in  mine but
 only 30 Amps as I ran #10 cable
 underground when we built it. Now I wish I had gone with a minimum of #8 so
 I could run 40 Amps or more. My welders
 want more power. If I try to run at the higher amperages, I blow breakers.
 The underground cable is a bit pricy so
 it will cost some money to run the bigger line out. My garage is only 40
 feet or so from the house but also a mess
 to dig in the new line.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
 Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:54 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


  Good points - thanks, Mitch.  I guess the two post drive-on lift rules
 out
 brake work...

 Also, it requires 220 volts.  How big a deal is that?  Our garage is
 detached, about 75' from the house.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread andrew strasfogel
A heavy up is an enlargement of the main panel box to boost the electrical
capacity.

Yes, there is a separate panel in the garage.

The non-trivial part is getting any unit delivered to the house, unloaded,
and installed!

On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 3:24 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 What is a heavy up?

 By power, I mean what currently runs from the house to the garage? Is there
 a sub-panel in the garage with breakers
 or fuses? How would you turn off the power to the garage from the house
 end? Are there breakers at the house end
 that you would use to shut off the power to the garage? That alone would
 tell you what is now available. If you
 look at the wiring at the house end or the garage end it will also tell you
 whether there is any additional
 capacity available in the sense of possibly having wire that exceeds could
 be fused at a higher amperage.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
  Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:11 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


 How much power?  I dunno, but we recently had a heavy up in the house so
 I
 guess there is adequate capacity.

 On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 1:14 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  How much power do you have in the garage now?  I have 220 V in  mine but
  only 30 Amps as I ran #10 cable
  underground when we built it. Now I wish I had gone with a minimum of #8
 so
  I could run 40 Amps or more. My welders
  want more power. If I try to run at the higher amperages, I blow
 breakers.
  The underground cable is a bit pricy so
  it will cost some money to run the bigger line out. My garage is only 40
  feet or so from the house but also a mess
  to dig in the new line.
 
  Randy
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
  Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:54 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
 
 
   Good points - thanks, Mitch.  I guess the two post drive-on lift rules
  out
  brake work...
 
  Also, it requires 220 volts.  How big a deal is that?  Our garage is
  detached, about 75' from the house.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-22 Thread R A Bennell
That is cool. I need to do the same thing. We have 100 Amp service panel and I 
want to move to 200 Amp.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 1:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


A heavy up is an enlargement of the main panel box to boost the electrical
capacity.

Yes, there is a separate panel in the garage.

The non-trivial part is getting any unit delivered to the house, unloaded,
and installed!

On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 3:24 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 What is a heavy up?

 By power, I mean what currently runs from the house to the garage? Is there
 a sub-panel in the garage with breakers
 or fuses? How would you turn off the power to the garage from the house
 end? Are there breakers at the house end
 that you would use to shut off the power to the garage? That alone would
 tell you what is now available. If you
 look at the wiring at the house end or the garage end it will also tell you
 whether there is any additional
 capacity available in the sense of possibly having wire that exceeds could
 be fused at a higher amperage.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
  Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:11 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


 How much power?  I dunno, but we recently had a heavy up in the house so
 I
 guess there is adequate capacity.

 On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 1:14 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  How much power do you have in the garage now?  I have 220 V in  mine but
  only 30 Amps as I ran #10 cable
  underground when we built it. Now I wish I had gone with a minimum of #8
 so
  I could run 40 Amps or more. My welders
  want more power. If I try to run at the higher amperages, I blow
 breakers.
  The underground cable is a bit pricy so
  it will cost some money to run the bigger line out. My garage is only 40
  feet or so from the house but also a mess
  to dig in the new line.
 
  Randy
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
  Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:54 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop
 
 
   Good points - thanks, Mitch.  I guess the two post drive-on lift rules
  out
  brake work...
 
  Also, it requires 220 volts.  How big a deal is that?  Our garage is
  detached, about 75' from the house.
   ___
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread andrew strasfogel
I always use a log as a support in case the car falls off the jack.  The
problem with ramps is they might move as I attempt to drive up them.  I like
the idea of a lift better.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread Allan Streib
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I always use a log as a support in case the car falls off the jack.
 The problem with ramps is they might move as I attempt to drive up
 them.  I like the idea of a lift better.

I have bad luck with ramps as well, at least on my smooth, sealed
garage floor.  they just slide, the car never goes up on them.

Jack stands and a decent floor jack have always served me well.

A real lift that would let me stand under the car would be wonderful;
unfortunately I have neither the overhead clearance nor the money for
one right not.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread andrew strasfogel
Tempting, but at $1350 not what I would call inexpensive...

On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 2:16 PM, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Andrew,

 Here's what you need...  http://www.asedeals.com/
 low_rise_lifts.htmlOn the inexpensive side.

 A low rise lift to give clearance for your underneath and not push up
 the floor above..

 Chuck
 
   why I am in the market for a garage lift (even it's a
  mere 9.5 ft. from floor to ceiling).
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread andrew strasfogel
I would prefer one that is narrower so I wouldn't have to drive over it all
the time when entering and leaving the garage...  I also wonder what would
be involved in moving the non-portable unit from place to place.
On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 2:16 PM, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Andrew,

 Here's what you need...  http://www.asedeals.com/
 low_rise_lifts.htmlOn the inexpensive side.

 A low rise lift to give clearance for your underneath and not push up
 the floor above..

 Chuck
 
   why I am in the market for a garage lift (even it's a
  mere 9.5 ft. from floor to ceiling).
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Andrew,

Possibly, just some muscle.

Chuck
On Aug 21, 2008, at 8:32 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 I would prefer one that is narrower so I wouldn't have to drive  
 over it all
 the time when entering and leaving the garage...  I also wonder  
 what would
 be involved in moving the non-portable unit from place to place.
 On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 2:16 PM, Chuck Landenberger  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Andrew,

 Here's what you need...  http://www.asedeals.com/
 low_rise_lifts.htmlOn the inexpensive side.

 A low rise lift to give clearance for your underneath and not push up
 the floor above..

 Chuck

  why I am in the market for a garage lift (even it's a
 mere 9.5 ft. from floor to ceiling).


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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread R A Bennell
Glue some rubber on the bottom of the ramps so they won't slide. I guess my 
garage floor is rougher as I have not
experienced any issues with sliding. I am always concerned about going too far 
or not being centered but I can
always get my wife or one of the boys to watch and let me know if I appear to 
be in danger of going off the ramp.

One thing I will comment on (and have in the past) is that my ramps are home 
made out of plywood. They were
initially built for a Mercury Sable that my wife had. The front spoiler on it 
was too low to the ground and my old
steel ramps would not work. The spoiler would hit the ramp long before the 
wheels got to the ramp. I made ramps
with a longer ramp part so it is quite a bit easier to drive up. The angle is 
not as steep. They do project further
under the car so can be a bit in the way when sliding under the car but I can 
live with that.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 9:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I always use a log as a support in case the car falls off the jack.
 The problem with ramps is they might move as I attempt to drive up
 them.  I like the idea of a lift better.

I have bad luck with ramps as well, at least on my smooth, sealed
garage floor.  they just slide, the car never goes up on them.

Jack stands and a decent floor jack have always served me well.

A real lift that would let me stand under the car would be wonderful;
unfortunately I have neither the overhead clearance nor the money for
one right not.

Allan
--
1983 300D

_


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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Andrew,

First, ditch the log.  It's too unstable even if it's a foot in  
diameter.  Get two jack stands.

Second, put a 2x6x36 or 48 on the floor in front of each ramp with  
one end up against a concrete sill or something like that.  Did it  
for many years.  Ramps won't slide.

Chuck
On Aug 21, 2008, at 7:46 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 I always use a log as a support in case the car falls off the  
 jack.  The
 problem with ramps is they might move as I attempt to drive up  
 them.  I like
 the idea of a lift better.
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread Mitch Haley
andrew strasfogel wrote:
 I would prefer one that is narrower so I wouldn't have to drive over it all
 the time when entering and leaving the garage...  I also wonder what would
 be involved in moving the non-portable unit from place to place.

If you have 12' of ceiling height, get a wide one with clear floor underneath.
Then you just swing the arms out of the way with plenty of room to drive in and 
open your doors without hitting the uprights.

If you move and take it with you, you will have to specifically exempt it from 
the sales contract (it's bolted to the floor) and you have the logistics of 
unbolting, disassembling, and moving a 1500lb object. Then you need to have 
about 4 of good concrete and 12' of overhead clearance at the new garage.
There are floor plate lifts that can fit under a 9' or 10' ceiling, but you 
would be driving over the hump in the middle and if you might have to be 
careful 
about hoisting your car into the ceiling. (with any hoist, if you don't have 
16' 
ceilings you better not be hoisting with the hood open)

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread andrew strasfogel
My ceiling is 9'6 due to the architect who designed our garage with a flat
roof.  On the bright side, I can do a green roof one day to grow even more
heirloom tomatoes.

Andrew
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread R A Bennell
Is there any reason that you could not raise the roof and give yourself more 
room? What is the garage built of? Are
there height restrictions in your area? How does it compare to the house in 
terms of height?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 2:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


My ceiling is 9'6 due to the architect who designed our garage with a flat
roof.  On the bright side, I can do a green roof one day to grow even more
heirloom tomatoes.

Andrew


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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread Mitch Haley
andrew strasfogel wrote:
 My ceiling is 9'6 

This is 9'3, just remember my prior comment about sticking your car roof 
through the ceiling:
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp7a-d.htm

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread andrew strasfogel
I think that unless I can walk beneath the car w/o crouching, it makes more
sense to get the low rise lift rather than a post lift.

On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 5:17 PM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
  My ceiling is 9'6

 This is 9'3, just remember my prior comment about sticking your car roof
 through the ceiling:
 http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp7a-d.htm

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-21 Thread andrew strasfogel
Also, that low post lift costs $495 for shipping whereas the low rise was
$1400 delivered (vs. nearly $1800, plus installation and electrical
charges).

On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel
[EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

 I think that unless I can walk beneath the car w/o crouching, it makes more
 sense to get the low rise lift rather than a post lift.


 On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 5:17 PM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
  My ceiling is 9'6

 This is 9'3, just remember my prior comment about sticking your car roof
 through the ceiling:
 http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp7a-d.htm

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-20 Thread Gary Thompson
I've cured a clunking downshift by properly adjusting the transmission
modulator to the correct working pressure. Too high and you get
clunks. Too low and you get flaring.

Adjusting it per the book with a gauge is the only way to know for sure.

Gary Thompson
1995 E320


On 8/19/08, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I guess I should have asked whether a bad vacuum control valve will cause
 the symptoms that I describe (clunking on downshifts).

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-20 Thread andrew strasfogel
What's a gauge.

Just kidding, I'm not that bovine.  I know what they are, but I don't do
gauges in the quantitative sense.  I do cookbook, pictures, and mentoreeing
under the guidance of a certified technician.
I may have been adjusting the transmission modulator w/o knowing what it
is called.  Is it the tiny little crank doodad under the car that you pull
out and turn CW or CCW?  I've done that - first 8 circles CW to cure
flaring, then 6X CCW to cure clunking.  This required me to jack up the car
and slide underneath while holding my breath, so it's not one of my favorite
activities, which is why I am in the market for a garage lift (even it's a
mere 9.5 ft. from floor to ceiling).
On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 11:14 AM, Gary Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

 I've cured a clunking downshift by properly adjusting the transmission
 modulator to the correct working pressure. Too high and you get
 clunks. Too low and you get flaring.

 Adjusting it per the book with a gauge is the only way to know for sure.

 Gary Thompson
 1995 E320


 On 8/19/08, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I guess I should have asked whether a bad vacuum control valve will cause
  the symptoms that I describe (clunking on downshifts).

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-20 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 10:43 AM, andrew strasfogel
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I may have been adjusting the transmission modulator w/o knowing what it
 is called.  Is it the tiny little crank doodad under the car that you pull
 out and turn CW or CCW?  I've done that - first 8 circles CW to cure
 flaring, then 6X CCW to cure clunking.

At the risk of going Marshall on you, please CHECK THE VACUUM SYSTEM
before you play with the transmission modulator!  On every car I've
seen the modulator pressure was right on spec or nearly so without any
tweaks, and turning it one way or the other just made things worse.
Chasing down vacuum leaks is tedious and less satisfying than turning
the little crank doodad, but it is FAR MORE LIKELY to lead you to a
properly shifting transmission!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-20 Thread andrew strasfogel
OK!  There is nothing more tedious than jacking up the wagon etc. to turn
the tiny crank, so I guess I am motivated to learn something new.  Where do
I go for the cookbook?

On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 1:49 PM, Alex Chamberlain
[EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

 On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 10:43 AM, andrew strasfogel
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I may have been adjusting the transmission modulator w/o knowing what
 it
  is called.  Is it the tiny little crank doodad under the car that you
 pull
  out and turn CW or CCW?  I've done that - first 8 circles CW to cure
  flaring, then 6X CCW to cure clunking.

 At the risk of going Marshall on you, please CHECK THE VACUUM SYSTEM
 before you play with the transmission modulator!  On every car I've
 seen the modulator pressure was right on spec or nearly so without any
 tweaks, and turning it one way or the other just made things worse.
 Chasing down vacuum leaks is tedious and less satisfying than turning
 the little crank doodad, but it is FAR MORE LIKELY to lead you to a
 properly shifting transmission!

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-20 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Andrew,

Here's what you need...  http://www.asedeals.com/ 
low_rise_lifts.htmlOn the inexpensive side.

A low rise lift to give clearance for your underneath and not push up  
the floor above..

Chuck

  why I am in the market for a garage lift (even it's a
 mere 9.5 ft. from floor to ceiling).


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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-20 Thread R A Bennell
Get a set of ramps and just drive up onto them. That should give enough 
clearance to get to the tranny.
Alternatively, if you don't have a floor jack, get one. Much quicker and easier 
than using the crank thing in the
trunk- and please use some sort of stand or blocking to protect you before you 
crawl under.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 11:57 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop


OK!  There is nothing more tedious than jacking up the wagon etc. to turn
the tiny crank, so I guess I am motivated to learn something new.  Where do
I go for the cookbook?

On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 1:49 PM, Alex Chamberlain
[EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

 On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 10:43 AM, andrew strasfogel
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I may have been adjusting the transmission modulator w/o knowing what
 it
  is called.  Is it the tiny little crank doodad under the car that you
 pull
  out and turn CW or CCW?  I've done that - first 8 circles CW to cure
  flaring, then 6X CCW to cure clunking.

 At the risk of going Marshall on you, please CHECK THE VACUUM SYSTEM
 before you play with the transmission modulator!  On every car I've
 seen the modulator pressure was right on spec or nearly so without any
 tweaks, and turning it one way or the other just made things worse.
 Chasing down vacuum leaks is tedious and less satisfying than turning
 the little crank doodad, but it is FAR MORE LIKELY to lead you to a
 properly shifting transmission!

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-20 Thread Allan Streib
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I may have been adjusting the transmission modulator w/o knowing
 what it is called.  Is it the tiny little crank doodad under the car
 that you pull out and turn CW or CCW?  I've done that - first 8
 circles CW to cure flaring, then 6X CCW to cure clunking.  This
 required me to jack up the car and slide underneath while holding my
 breath, so it's not one of my favorite activities, which is why I am
 in the market for a garage lift (even it's a mere 9.5 ft. from floor
 to ceiling).

PLEASE get some ramps or jack stands to support the car, never get
under a car supported only by a jack.  Jacks are for lifting, not
holdingmany folks have been killed when a jack let go while they
were under their car.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-19 Thread Rolf
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xxuapi452k1qmln3f5apa455partnumber=1230700046

They list it as back order. Did you try classic parts? This does not
bode well its very crucial to the operation of the transmission.

-Rolf

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 I've been playing with the transmission settings on my new 318K miles 300TD
 turbo wagon.   It had been flaring, and when I cured that by adjusting the
 cable on top of the valve cover and the tiny crank on the side of the
 transmission, it now clunks when shifting down into first gear.  Could a
 leaky vacuum control valve cause this clunking?  All the other adjustments I
 made seemed to help.

 Incidentally, the part number for this valve is 123 070 0046.  Rusty tells
 me it is NLA but perhaps one of you fine people has a good used one or a NOS
 valve I can have for a proverbial song?

 1983 300TD 318 K
 1983 300TD 282 K (trusty/rusty and for sale cheap)
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-19 Thread Mitch Haley
andrew strasfogel wrote:

 Incidentally, the part number for this valve is 123 070 0046.  Rusty tells
 me it is NLA but perhaps one of you fine people has a good used one or a NOS
 valve I can have for a proverbial song?

I tried to check bimby to see if the 116 version was available, or if there 
were 
different 123 versions, and got an error message when I clicked on the Online 
Catalog link. I have a 300D pump around here somewhere, might have a good VCV 
on 
it, but I'm pretty sure it is not 1985.


http://buymbparts.com/epcmakemodel2.epc?make=MERCEDES

Processing Error - make=MERCEDES

  Error:   1705
Message: File access is denied d:\countercat\wwstore\wws_stores.dbf.
   Code:
Program: routerepc
Line No: 47

Handled by: Webstoreserveraa.Error()


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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-19 Thread tom savage
Rolf wrote:
 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xxuapi452k1qmln3f5apa455partnumber=1230700046
 
 They list it as back order. Did you try classic parts? This does not
 bode well its very crucial to the operation of the transmission.

Check with a dealer if Rusty can't get it.  I see it as available with a 
retail price of $89 (vice $125 from Arizona), but the parts guy can tell 
you for sure.

Tom

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-19 Thread Rolf
The annoying thing is that I was just looking at one a few weeks ago and
I am pretty sure it was under $20. Looks like I have some new gold to
dig for at the junk yards.

-Rolf

tom savage wrote:
 Rolf wrote:
   
 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xxuapi452k1qmln3f5apa455partnumber=1230700046

 They list it as back order. Did you try classic parts? This does not
 bode well its very crucial to the operation of the transmission.
 

 Check with a dealer if Rusty can't get it.  I see it as available with a 
 retail price of $89 (vice $125 from Arizona), but the parts guy can tell 
 you for sure.

 Tom

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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-19 Thread andrew strasfogel
I would be careful in stockpiling these nuggets because the Classic Center
said that Mercedes would probably start making them again since the demand
was so hugh...

On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 2:19 PM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The annoying thing is that I was just looking at one a few weeks ago and
 I am pretty sure it was under $20. Looks like I have some new gold to
 dig for at the junk yards.

 -Rolf

 tom savage wrote:
  Rolf wrote:
 
 
 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xxuapi452k1qmln3f5apa455partnumber=1230700046
 
  They list it as back order. Did you try classic parts? This does not
  bode well its very crucial to the operation of the transmission.
 
 
  Check with a dealer if Rusty can't get it.  I see it as available with a
  retail price of $89 (vice $125 from Arizona), but the parts guy can tell
  you for sure.
 
  Tom
 
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Re: [MBZ] Things that go clunk when you stop

2008-08-19 Thread andrew strasfogel
I guess I should have asked whether a bad vacuum control valve will cause
the symptoms that I describe (clunking on downshifts).

On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 2:38 PM, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

 I would be careful in stockpiling these nuggets because the Classic Center
 said that Mercedes would probably start making them again since the demand
 was so hugh...


 On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 2:19 PM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The annoying thing is that I was just looking at one a few weeks ago and
 I am pretty sure it was under $20. Looks like I have some new gold to
 dig for at the junk yards.

 -Rolf

 tom savage wrote:
  Rolf wrote:
 
 
 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xxuapi452k1qmln3f5apa455partnumber=1230700046
 
  They list it as back order. Did you try classic parts? This does not
  bode well its very crucial to the operation of the transmission.
 
 
  Check with a dealer if Rusty can't get it.  I see it as available with a
  retail price of $89 (vice $125 from Arizona), but the parts guy can tell
  you for sure.
 
  Tom
 
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