[neonixie-l] Re: XM1000 x 6

[Paul Andrews]

That is quite some auctions he has going there. Never heard of the XM1000 
before, plus the CD46? Sheesh.

On Thursday, August 1, 2024 at 2:44:22 PM UTC-4 Mac Doktor wrote:

> I'd love to have this one:
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/276574723087
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> "Every kid starts out as a natural-born scientist, and then we beat it out 
> of them. A few trickle through the system with their wonder and enthusiasm 
> for science intact."—Carl Sagan, *Psychology Today*, 1996
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: CD27 Loose Base

[Paul Andrews]

I had a very sad shipment of these tubes a few years ago. The box rattled 
when I got it and yes, there were some smashed tubes in there when I opened 
it. Amazingly most were intact. Anyway, I took the opportunity to see if I 
could dislodge the glass tube from the base, but the cement they used is 
rock hard. I even tried drilling through the plastic, but it is very hard.

Personally I would start with something soft, e.g. the silicone glue you 
suggest, and see if that is sufficient. I certainly wouldn't try forcing 
anything down between the base and the tube. I suspect that it wouldn't 
really be enough though. Superglue would probably be better but it might 
disfigure the plastic. If you decide to go this route I would try a dab of 
the glue on the back of the base where it can't be seen.

On Monday, June 17, 2024 at 8:56:35 PM UTC-4 alex nolan wrote:

> I recently found a few CD27 that work, but the glass tube seems to be 
> loose in the black plastic base that contains the pins. Does anyone have 
> any tips for how to secure the two pieces together? I don't want to risk 
> damaging the tube with something that would generate heat or other stress 
> on the glass.
>
> Would some sort of epoxy work? Or perhaps a silicone based glue?
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] A bit $teep for a DMM

[Paul Andrews]

Hmmm. Maybe I need to have another look at this. Anyway I have faster 
processors now too.

On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 11:26:49 AM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:

> I'm planning a similar approach with the HP5245L, but instead I will run 
> the counter with a 10-second gate. The gate signal is an *output* from the 
> counter, and while the signal is active, it just acts like a regular 
> counter. So, all I need to do is wait for gate to go active, send a stream 
> of pulses (up to 235,959 of them), and they will display the time.
>
> The odd thing about the 5245 is that the display is on while counting; 
> annoying if you are measuring frequency but just what you need for a clock. 
> After the initial count is displayed, which is pretty fast at 50Mhz (less 
> than 5msec), the next 9+ seconds only require a single pulse to advance the 
> seconds *in most cases*. When there is a rollover for the next minute, 
> you need to send 41 pulses so that xx:x1:59 becomes xx:x:2:00 . Similar 
> exceptions for ten-minute, hours, etc. At midnite, this trick wont work so 
> you may as well flood the device with an erratic burst of pulses to make 
> most of the digits roll.
>
> Since a 50Mhz pulse-output is too fast for a cheap microcontroller, it 
> will be done from an FPGA.
>
> Of course I wont keep this thing running 24/7 because of the noise and 
> wasted electricity. But at least I will get more usage out of th3 5245L.
>
> On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 7:23:51 AM UTC-7 Adrian Godwin wrote:
>
>> Interesting idea. 
>> I'd speculate that the accuracy problem where the counter failed to see 
>> some pulses is perhaps a synchronization problem. If the pulse-counting 
>> method worked by generating a variable number of pulses at 240kHz then they 
>> should always be visible to the counter as long as that's within it's 
>> range. But if the gate period of the counter didn't coincide with the 
>> gating of the pulses at the generator, you would get variable results. And 
>> there's no obvious way to make them synchronise without stop/start signals.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2024 at 3:04 PM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>>
>>> Why not both? Here is my partially successful attempt to display the 
>>> time on a frequency counter by generating the correct frequency that would 
>>> result in the time being shown in the frequency counter. I had forgotten 
>>> about this until I read this thread:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.nixies.us/2018/03/25/display-the-time-on-an-old-frequency-counter/
>>>
>>> On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 5:53:32 AM UTC-4 Adrian Godwin wrote:
>>>
>>>> I much prefer Nixies in functional equipment rather than for their own 
>>>> sake. And while displaying them in a clock is fine, there are other types 
>>>> of clock to cherish too, leading to a loss of space. And since I can build 
>>>> a clock myself, other functionality is attractive (admittedly I wouldn't 
>>>> pay $300). 
>>>>
>>>> It's a pity there aren't a lot of devices other than counters and DVMs 
>>>> to find - I already have Philps, Racal and Avo examples. I'd like to find 
>>>> a 
>>>> nixie-based measurement system such as a Heidenheim. 
>>>> Are there any other types of instruments that were made ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2024 at 2:03 AM  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Re: [neonixie-l] A bit $teep for a DMM
>>>>> On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:57 AM Mac Doktor  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> What makes this DMM so valuable? There are only four tubes to yank 
>>>>>> out: 
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/405017664588
>>>>>>  
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> It is a FLUKE, you would  only Yank the tubes to clan the pins and 
>>>>>> remove the dust from the sockets... then reassemble carefully and bow 
>>>>>> down 
>>>>>> in Veneration.
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>>
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>
>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/194ac98d77051b3026a5ca51c003969b%40zeusprune.ca
&

Re: [neonixie-l] A bit $teep for a DMM

[Paul Andrews]

Why not both? Here is my partially successful attempt to display the time 
on a frequency counter by generating the correct frequency that would 
result in the time being shown in the frequency counter. I had forgotten 
about this until I read this thread:

https://www.nixies.us/2018/03/25/display-the-time-on-an-old-frequency-counter/

On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 5:53:32 AM UTC-4 Adrian Godwin wrote:

> I much prefer Nixies in functional equipment rather than for their own 
> sake. And while displaying them in a clock is fine, there are other types 
> of clock to cherish too, leading to a loss of space. And since I can build 
> a clock myself, other functionality is attractive (admittedly I wouldn't 
> pay $300). 
>
> It's a pity there aren't a lot of devices other than counters and DVMs to 
> find - I already have Philps, Racal and Avo examples. I'd like to find a 
> nixie-based measurement system such as a Heidenheim. 
> Are there any other types of instruments that were made ?
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 13, 2024 at 2:03 AM  wrote:
>
>> Re: [neonixie-l] A bit $teep for a DMM
>> On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:57 AM Mac Doktor  wrote:
>>
>>> What makes this DMM so valuable? There are only four tubes to yank out: 
>>>  
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/405017664588
>>>  
>>>  
>>> It is a FLUKE, you would  only Yank the tubes to clan the pins and 
>>> remove the dust from the sockets... then reassemble carefully and bow down 
>>> in Veneration.
>>>
>> -- 
>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/194ac98d77051b3026a5ca51c003969b%40zeusprune.ca
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: GN-1

[Paul Andrews]

They seem to be pretty rare - at least I've only seen them for sale once. I 
have quite a few if you're interested, note the black coating on the sides 
is split on all of them - it becomes brittle and shrinks with age. Also 
note that you shouldn't use them in a clock as they have no mercury.

On Tuesday, June 4, 2024 at 11:08:55 AM UTC-4 Robert wrote:

> How rare is this early nixie and is it valuable?
>
> Thanks
> Rib
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: NEW CD46

[Paul Andrews]

And they sold...

On Monday, April 15, 2024 at 12:50:24 PM UTC-4 Adam Piórko wrote:

> Miracle or a clash with reality?
>
> new price: EUR 5,000.00
>
> wtorek, 9 kwietnia 2024 o 00:06:40 UTC+2 liam bartosiewicz napisał(a):
>
>> When the cost of a six digit clock can be measured in Jeff Bezos minutes 
>> then there’s probably an issue with the pricing
>>
>> On Apr 8, 2024, at 7:57 AM, Nicholas Stock  wrote:
>>
>> Prohibitive is not the word I would use 🤣
>>
>>
>> Aspirational? Crazy? Insane?
>>
>> I know there's some inflation going on but this is ridiculous
>>
>> Nick
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 8, 2024, at 07:43, Paul Andrews  wrote:
>>
>> !!!
>>
>> On Monday, April 8, 2024 at 10:03:09 AM UTC-4 Adam Piórko wrote:
>>
>>> The price is prohibitive. I wonder when they will sell...
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.de/itm/296351287168
>>>
>> -- 
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>> .
>>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

I don't think so. They locked the firmware after v1 so that it can no 
longer be updated.

On Thursday, April 11, 2024 at 5:10:21 AM UTC-4 Alan Tan wrote:

> Will this firmware work with the PR1 from Elekstube?
>
> On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 2:35 AM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>
>> Anyone interested in trying out a version that connects to MQTT/Home 
>> Assistant (so you can connect a moment and luminance sensor)?
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 28, 2024 at 11:06:53 PM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:
>>
>>> Do you mean Millclock? I wasn’t aware Dalibor made a temperature Nixie 
>>> tube. In fact that the moment I don’t see any Nixie tubes for sale on his 
>>> site. Just clocks.
>>>
>>> On Feb 28, 2024, at 9:55 PM, Mac Doktor  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Feb 28, 2024, at 9:46 PM, gregebert  wrote:
>>>
>>> Crypto prices should be easy to displayisn't that just a random 
>>> number  ??  ;-]
>>>
>>>
>>> I wish that Daibor had included a "K" in the temperature unit tube.
>>>
>>>
>>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>>
>>> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>>>
>>> "Words fail me. What is a doctorate in homeopathic medicine? A 
>>> blank piece of paper taped to your wall?"—PZ Myers
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
>>> -- 
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>

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[neonixie-l] Re: NEW CD46

[Paul Andrews]

!!!

On Monday, April 8, 2024 at 10:03:09 AM UTC-4 Adam Piórko wrote:

> The price is prohibitive. I wonder when they will sell...
>
> https://www.ebay.de/itm/296351287168
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Urwerk SpaceTime Blade clock

[Paul Andrews]

I love those tubes - Dalibor specials. I wish he would make them generally 
available, but I'm guessing there's probably an agreement in place that he 
doesn't. I suppose I could ask lol!

On Sunday, April 7, 2024 at 4:52:56 AM UTC-4 Robert wrote:

>
> https://www.ablogtowatch.com/new-release-urwerk-spacetime-blade-nixie-tube-clock/
>
>
> Rob
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie Tic Tac Toe

[Paul Andrews]

I have one of his time-flies clocks that I built back in 2019. Still going 
strong.

That tic-tac-toe board looks really neat though.

On Sunday, April 7, 2024 at 5:02:39 PM UTC-4 Mac Doktor wrote:

> https://www.etsy.com/listing/253733048/nixie-oxo-board-diy-kit-round-in-7
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> "By the end of Chuck Statler's 'Rock Videos' of Devo we agreed that even 
> if Devo did not take the stage it was still the best concert any of us 
> had ever attended."—Kim Thayil (Soundgarden), 1995
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] whats the life of the Burroughs HB-106

[Paul Andrews]

I wouldn't use the HB-106 in a clock - no mercury so it will darken pretty 
rapidly, like in maybe 6 months.

The other similarly shaped ones (e.g. 6844A) are junk in my opinion. Never 
got one to reliably light up. Greg, I *did* put one in a microwave for 
about a second - it definitely glowed then lol, but was still useless after 
I got it out (though no worse than when it went in).

On Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 12:08:35 PM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:

> Ever since I got a clearly marked 5031 nixie, I assumed the others with 
> the same shape with no visible marking were also 5031's but there 
> apparently are other numbers such as 6844 and HB-106.
>
> I too have several dead ones, and I often wondered if they had been 
> circulating in Ebay-land as untested devices. I knew the risk when I bought 
> them.
>
> I have tried to rehab them, with zero success. The ones that are dark cant 
> be coaxed to glow even at 500 volts; others have partially-glowing cathodes 
> or glowing only on the bondwires. As best I can tell, the gas is 
> compromised. I suspect that since these were early-production devices the 
> glass-to-metal seal was not nearly as good as later devices. A few have 
> darkened interiors, which is probably sputtered material due to a lack of 
> mercury; of those, some still have a slight orange glow.
>
> In hindsight, I should have tried zapping them in a discarded microwave 
> oven I found last week, just to see if anything is in there. BTW, there 
> were a few things I scrapped from the microwave, but I made sure the deadly 
> MOT was recycled.
> On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 9:31:49 PM UTC-7 liam bartosiewicz wrote:
>
>> Fairly certain that all HB-106’s are standard life. You could probably 
>> get somewhere around 10,000 hours with a “new” one. 
>>
>> > On Apr 5, 2024, at 7:55 PM, David  wrote: 
>> > 
>> > The truly long-life tubes had mercury added. If you see a hazy purple 
>> glow when the tube is lit, it's long life. Solid orange is not so long 
>> life. 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > David Forbes, Tucson AZ 
>> > 
>> >> On Apr 5, 2024, at 6:45 PM, Jasper nagle  
>> wrote: 
>> >> 
>> >> i picked 9 of these up for $90 $10 a pcs for A clock project, and 
>> iv'e tried searching all the data sheets about them the most i can find is 
>> one stating long life, but long life in 1955 i would assume wouldn't 
>> compare well to like a 1960 one ? 
>> > 
>> > -- 
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>>  
>>
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] eBay B-7971

[Paul Andrews]

Seems like this is off-topic/cross posted?

On Wednesday, April 3, 2024 at 1:21:50 AM UTC-4 Peter Hall wrote:

> I went too $75 aussie,each...hope he has a win👍
>
> From🚨Peter Hall😁 insidiousnixies🦘Utube 
>
> On 3 Apr 2024 12:18 am, Robert  wrote:
>
> Did anyone here buy them?
>
> Rob
>
> On 27 Mar 2024, at 12:37, Michail Wilson  wrote:
>
>  
>
> Careful.
>
>  
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/196312588768
>
>  
>
> I asked…
>
> Have you done any testing? Example with a plasma ball? Visible cracks? You 
> willing to accept returns if they don’t work if opened and tested on video?
>
>  
>
> His response was:
>
> *Can you please Read? Not tested! UNTESTED! AS IS for display ONLY and 
> Absolutely no return. For parts or not working.*
>
>  
>
>  
>
> I was hoping he would at least check for cracks, but instead he added text 
> to his auction saying…
>
> Final Sale and NO Returns. Tubes are for display ONLY in Untested 
> condition.
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Michail
>
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> .
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> .
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>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

Anyone interested in trying out a version that connects to MQTT/Home 
Assistant (so you can connect a moment and luminance sensor)?

On Wednesday, February 28, 2024 at 11:06:53 PM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:

> Do you mean Millclock? I wasn’t aware Dalibor made a temperature Nixie 
> tube. In fact that the moment I don’t see any Nixie tubes for sale on his 
> site. Just clocks.
>
> On Feb 28, 2024, at 9:55 PM, Mac Doktor  wrote:
>
> 
>
>
> On Feb 28, 2024, at 9:46 PM, gregebert  wrote:
>
> Crypto prices should be easy to displayisn't that just a random 
> number  ??  ;-]
>
>
> I wish that Daibor had included a "K" in the temperature unit tube.
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> "Words fail me. What is a doctorate in homeopathic medicine? A blank piece 
> of paper taped to your wall?"—PZ Myers
>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

Do you mean Millclock? I wasn’t aware Dalibor made a temperature Nixie tube. In fact that the moment I don’t see any Nixie tubes for sale on his site. Just clocks.On Feb 28, 2024, at 9:55 PM, Mac Doktor  wrote:On Feb 28, 2024, at 9:46 PM, gregebert  wrote:Crypto prices should be easy to displayisn't that just a random number  ??  ;-]I wish that Daibor had included a "K" in the temperature unit tube.
Terry Bowman, KA4HJH"The Mac Doctor"https://www.astarcloseup.com"Words fail me. What is a doctorate in homeopathic medicine? A blank piece of paper taped to your wall?"—PZ Myers







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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

Hi Nick. I’ve fixed the problem Richard d was having, so it’s Ok to update to the latest version on the web site.On Feb 27, 2024, at 11:02 PM, Nicholas Stock  wrote:Hi Paul, I'm running the version prior to the latest and I've noticed on two occasions the displays have been blank, the clock portal is still responsive, but no display on the OLEDsa restart fixes it.Cheers.NickOn Thu, Feb 22, 2024 at 8:36 AM Paul Andrews <p...@nixies.us> wrote:Richard ran in to an issue with the latest firmware (it was continuously connecting to and disconnecting from wifi), so I'm curious if anyone else has tried it and what the results are. For him downgrading to the previous version worked. Naturally I have not experienced this issue myself, but am just wondering whether to pull it from my web site or not.On Wednesday, February 21, 2024 at 12:48:07 PM UTC-5 Richard Scales wrote:Many thanks for this - installation was a breeze, all looking lovely. - RichardOn Wednesday 21 February 2024 at 02:10:25 UTC Paul Andrews wrote:Last release for a while, barring the odd bug fix. Available at the usual place. This is the release notes:Added a default clock face that includes colons, am, pm and empty background.Added an additional time display mode that uses four digits, a flashing colon and a display of today's weather.Changed the initial configuration to use this clock face and display the four-digit clock with weather.The default weather icons have also changed to monochrome. These icons can be drawn against the blank background and the color can be adjusted to match the color of the clock face (via the Weather page).Where the GUI allows you to adjust colors the controls indicate what will happen as you adjust the colorThere is an additional color control that both displays the current color and provides an alternate way to modify it.The GUI is responsive to the state of the clock - it will hide controls that aren't used for the current clock state.The clock can now display BMP files that have 1, 2, 4, 8, 16 or 24 bits per pixel. batch_convert_images.py has been modified to produce files with these various bit depths.This is a piccie:On Saturday, February 10, 2024 at 2:39:34 PM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:Tell me more about all this. I would like to provide access to a movement sensor, so I’ve ordered a aqara motion sensor and a sonoff zigbee dongle. I’m a little confused about the options from there on though. e.g. ESPHome, zigbee2mqtt, HA etc. It seems like just polling an mqtt broker would be easiest from the perspective of getting data from the sensor but I would like this to be as general as possible given the memory restrictions that I have in the clock. Any guidance would be gratefully received.On Saturday, January 27, 2024 at 10:38:55 AM UTC-5 Benoit Tourret wrote:I also like esp web tools, this is a great piece of art !!!I am using the version used on Home Assistant, called EspHome. this is an esp32, 8266, rp2040 "os" used with simple yaml configuration files.I use it with success for many sensors and displays in my home, and I try to use it on my new clock: B-7971/eight equipped with SmartSockets.up to now I can display time / date and internal + external temperature. I wish I could display message from HomeAssistant...Le samedi 27 janvier 2024 à 02:33:28 UTC+1, Paul Andrews a écrit :I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware for the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that the ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now I have - though I'm not the first. Note that they released a v2 of this clock that does have WiFi connectivity, so this firmware is for the original v1 clocks. I went a bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can upload new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 day weather forecast etc.- details are here.My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools interface - you can flash the firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.Anyhow, hope you like.



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Re: [neonixie-l] Scope clock STM32

[Paul Andrews]

Wow. As others have said, that is great work, and yes, would be very 
interested in trying to do this myself (to replace my frankensteined scope 
clock). I love the idea of using SVG to encode the shapes, leaves open a 
lot of scope (no pun intended!) for future mods.

On Monday, February 26, 2024 at 4:19:41 AM UTC-5 ken Henriksen wrote:

> Hi Poul.
>
>  
>
> That is a great job nice work, I have been working for this some time but 
> not to extend you got. Would it be possible to see the schematics ect?
>
>  
>
> /Ken
>
>  
>
> *From: *"neoni...@googlegroups.com"  on behalf 
> of paulvr <6006...@gmail.com>
> *Reply to: *"neoni...@googlegroups.com" 
> *Date: *Monday, 26 February 2024 at 10.12
> *To: *neonixie-l 
> *Subject: *[neonixie-l] Scope clock STM32
>
>  
>
> This is my first post in this forum and I would like to introduce you to 
> my version of the scope clock. Mainly inspired by the work of David Forbes 
> and Grahame Marsh.
> The work is not finished yet, but I have reached a milestone for myself in 
> that all components are on one PCB and only one voltage source is required, 
> nm. 12 volts DC.
> The high voltage is made using a standard Würth WE-flex transformer, plus 
> and minus 250 Volt. The filament voltage is provided by a buck and forward 
> converter and a standard Würth push-pull transformer (6.3 Volt to 600mA).
> The MCU is an STM32G491, mainly chosen because of the integrated 12-bit 
> DACs. The image composition is completely DMA controlled and works 
> independently of the CPU, which therefore has a lot of time for other tasks.
> The characters and graphic shapes are encoded as SVG path.
> An ESP32 has been added to achieve the correct time according to the NTP. 
> Operation is entirely via a web server running on the ESP32. The software 
> is not finished, and not all functions work (work in progress).
> The next step is to try out other CRT tubes and make a housing.
>
>  
>
> Regards,
>
> Paul
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

Richard ran in to an issue with the latest firmware (it was continuously 
connecting to and disconnecting from wifi), so I'm curious if anyone else 
has tried it and what the results are. For him downgrading to the previous 
version worked. Naturally I have not experienced this issue myself, but am 
just wondering whether to pull it from my web site or not.
On Wednesday, February 21, 2024 at 12:48:07 PM UTC-5 Richard Scales wrote:

> Many thanks for this - installation was a breeze, all looking lovely.
>  - Richard
>
> On Wednesday 21 February 2024 at 02:10:25 UTC Paul Andrews wrote:
>
>> Last release for a while, barring the odd bug fix. Available at the 
>> usual place <https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/>. This 
>> is the release notes:
>>
>>
>>- Added a default clock face that includes colons, am, pm and empty 
>>background.
>>- Added an additional time display mode that uses four digits, a 
>>flashing colon and a display of today's weather.
>>- Changed the initial configuration to use this clock face and 
>>display the four-digit clock with weather.
>>- The default weather icons have also changed to *monochrome*. These 
>>icons can be drawn against the blank background and the color can be 
>>adjusted to match the color of the clock face (via the *Weather*
>> page).
>>- Where the GUI allows you to adjust colors the controls indicate 
>>what will happen as you adjust the color
>>- There is an additional color control that both displays the current 
>>color and provides an alternate way to modify it.
>>- The GUI is responsive to the state of the clock - it will hide 
>>controls that aren't used for the current clock state.
>>- The clock can now display BMP files that have 1, 2, 4, 8, 16 or 24 
>>bits per pixel. batch_convert_images.py has been modified to produce 
>> files 
>>with these various bit depths.
>>
>> This is a piccie:
>>
>> [image: original.jpg]
>>
>> On Saturday, February 10, 2024 at 2:39:34 PM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Tell me more about all this. I would like to provide access to a 
>>> movement sensor, so I’ve ordered a aqara motion sensor and a sonoff zigbee 
>>> dongle. I’m a little confused about the options from there on though. e.g. 
>>> ESPHome, zigbee2mqtt, HA etc. It seems like just polling an mqtt broker 
>>> would be easiest from the perspective of getting data from the sensor but I 
>>> would like this to be as general as possible given the memory restrictions 
>>> that I have in the clock. Any guidance would be gratefully received.
>>> On Saturday, January 27, 2024 at 10:38:55 AM UTC-5 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>>
>>>> I also like esp web tools, this is a great piece of art !!!
>>>> I am using the version used on Home Assistant, called EspHome 
>>>> <https://esphome.io/>. this is an esp32, 8266, rp2040 "os" used with 
>>>> simple yaml configuration files.
>>>> I use it with success for many sensors and displays in my home, and I 
>>>> try to use it on my new clock: B-7971/eight equipped with SmartSockets.
>>>> up to now I can display time / date and internal + external 
>>>> temperature. I wish I could display message from HomeAssistant...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Le samedi 27 janvier 2024 à 02:33:28 UTC+1, Paul Andrews a écrit :
>>>>
>>>>> I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware 
>>>>> for the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity 
>>>>> that 
>>>>> the ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now *I* have - though I'm not 
>>>>> the first. Note that they released a *v2* of this clock that does 
>>>>> have WiFi connectivity, so this firmware is for the original *v1* 
>>>>> clocks. I went a bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based 
>>>>> GUI, 
>>>>> you can upload new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to 
>>>>> display a 5 day weather forecast etc.- details are here 
>>>>> <https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/>.
>>>>>
>>>>> My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools 
>>>>> <https://esphome.github.io/esp-web-tools/> interface - you can flash 
>>>>> the firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyhow, hope you like.
>>>>>
>>>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Who bought (almost) all of the fraction tubes?

[Paul Andrews]

Good to see they're still getting the odd nixie to sell

On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 8:58:17 PM UTC-5 Mac Doktor wrote:

> https://www.ebay.com/itm/276338717209
>
> I bought one the night before. When I got up someone had snagged the other 
> 69. The seller has a couple of other oddballs and he combines shipping. 
> Saved me over $20. Go to his items for sale, search for "nixie" and click 
> the "Worldwide" box.
>
> Oh, what the hell. Here it is:
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=yitry&store_cat=0&store_name=langrex&_oac=1&_nkw=nixie&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2
>
>
> Now here's a REAL bargain!
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/305312611122
>
> 35% off. Act now. Only 21 letters to go.
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor”
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> "Never install version point-zero of anything"
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

Tell me more about all this. I would like to provide access to a movement 
sensor, so I’ve ordered a aqara motion sensor and a sonoff zigbee dongle. 
I’m a little confused about the options from there on though. e.g. ESPHome, 
zigbee2mqtt, HA etc. It seems like just polling an mqtt broker would be 
easiest from the perspective of getting data from the sensor but I would 
like this to be as general as possible given the memory restrictions that I 
have in the clock. Any guidance would be gratefully received.
On Saturday, January 27, 2024 at 10:38:55 AM UTC-5 Benoit Tourret wrote:

> I also like esp web tools, this is a great piece of art !!!
> I am using the version used on Home Assistant, called EspHome 
> <https://esphome.io/>. this is an esp32, 8266, rp2040 "os" used with 
> simple yaml configuration files.
> I use it with success for many sensors and displays in my home, and I try 
> to use it on my new clock: B-7971/eight equipped with SmartSockets.
> up to now I can display time / date and internal + external temperature. I 
> wish I could display message from HomeAssistant...
>
>
> Le samedi 27 janvier 2024 à 02:33:28 UTC+1, Paul Andrews a écrit :
>
>> I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware for 
>> the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that the 
>> ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now *I* have - though I'm not the 
>> first. Note that they released a *v2* of this clock that does have WiFi 
>> connectivity, so this firmware is for the original *v1* clocks. I went a 
>> bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can upload 
>> new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 day 
>> weather forecast etc.- details are here 
>> <https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/>.
>>
>> My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools 
>> <https://esphome.github.io/esp-web-tools/> interface - you can flash the 
>> firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.
>>
>> Anyhow, hope you like.
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

sis you do the full install or the firmware only install? You need to do the full install.On Feb 10, 2024, at 1:13 AM, Peter H  wrote:Hi, really great work, very proffessional! , I'm so greatful, it`s working excellent. Only the screen saver menu cannot be opened, "Error loading page" but the matrix screen saver is working, cannot be changed but its already very nice. A great advantage now is to use the clock buttons. The clock has sometime a wifi problem so it is good to be indipendent. I have now also the new Gen2 clock, agreat device but it has not your great Web interface. Thank you, PeterPaul Andrews schrieb am Freitag, 9. Februar 2024 um 20:53:13 UTC+1:I've released v0.2 and binaries for the NoveLife SE(?) and Si Hai clones. This version includes a digital rain screen saver and an on-clock menu system for change between clock faces and weather icon sets.Note if you've already installed an earlier version, installing this one will lose your settings and any additional clock faces you may have uploaded because of the added settings and web pages for the new stuff, soyou will have to re-apply them and re-upload any additional faces and icons.Same web page: https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 7:43:55 AM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:OK. Good to know. There are a few clones of the original clock that use different pinouts. Take a look at src/GLOBAL_DEFINES.h for some examples.On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 7:08:09 AM UTC-5 Allen wrote:That is the very have as well. It works great!Allen Wisbey, W1SBYOn Feb 5, 2024, at 2:45 AM, leo oel <leolo...@gmail.com> wrote:Hello, I have this version of clock, will this firmware work for me?  понедельник, 5 февраля 2024 г. в 04:09:59 UTC+2, Allen: Thanks for this!I was able to upload it to my clock with no issues whatsoever.Kudos!Allen Wisbey, W1SBYOn Jan 26, 2024, at 8:51 PM, Paul Andrews <judg...@gmail.com> wrote:Of course, it works for me using Chrome on a Mac. My version of Chrome is Version 120.0.6099.234 (Official Build) (arm64), and the device was /dev/cu.usbserial-120On Jan 26, 2024, at 9:19 PM, Nicholas Stock <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:Paul, I uploaded it without issue on the PC (tried using my Mac, no dice using Chrome, it could connect but kept resetting the clock...). The interface is awesome as is the ability to change all the fonts etc bravo sir! Far better clock nowOn Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:39 PM Nicholas Stock <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:That is awesome Paul. I will definitely try this with mine.Many many thanks,NickOn Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:33 PM Paul Andrews <pa...@nixies.us> wrote:I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware for the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that the ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now I have - though I'm not the first. Note that they released a v2 of this clock that does have WiFi connectivity, so this firmware is for the original v1 clocks. I went a bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can upload new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 day weather forecast etc.- details are here.My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools interface - you can flash the firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.Anyhow, hope you like.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/683e06ba-6166-4b47-8dab-ecc451bf3957n%40googlegroups.com.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/neonixie-l/3YbJj3jF-qQ/unsubscribe.To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRHLgFWWdEiOBf-k8fxCRYSyzWvEQxUSzcMqQ0RgTT4uVTQ%40mail.gmail.com.



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Re: [neonixie-l] EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

I've released v0.2 and binaries for the NoveLife SE(?) and Si Hai clones. 
This version includes a digital rain screen saver and an on-clock menu 
system for change between clock faces and weather icon sets.

Note if you've already installed an earlier version, installing this one 
will lose your settings and any additional clock faces you may have 
uploaded because of the added settings and web pages for the new stuff, 
soyou will have to re-apply them and re-upload any additional faces and 
icons.

Same web page: https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/

On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 7:43:55 AM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:

> OK. Good to know. There are a few clones of the original clock that use 
> different pinouts. Take a look at src/GLOBAL_DEFINES.h for some examples.
>
> On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 7:08:09 AM UTC-5 Allen wrote:
>
>> That is the very have as well. It works great!
>>
>> Allen Wisbey, W1SBY
>>
>>
>> On Feb 5, 2024, at 2:45 AM, leo oel  wrote:
>>
>> Hello, I have this version of clock, will this firmware work for me?
>>
>>
>>  [image: 2024-02-05_10-38-00-693.jpg] [image: 024-02-05_10-38-00-643.jpg]
>>
>> понедельник, 5 февраля 2024 г. в 04:09:59 UTC+2, Allen: 
>>
>>> Thanks for this!
>>>
>>> I was able to upload it to my clock with no issues whatsoever.
>>>
>>> Kudos!
>>>
>>> Allen Wisbey, W1SBY
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 26, 2024, at 8:51 PM, Paul Andrews  wrote:
>>>
>>> Of course, it works for me using Chrome on a Mac. My version of Chrome 
>>> is Version 120.0.6099.234 (Official Build) (arm64), and the device was 
>>> /dev/cu.usbserial-120
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 26, 2024, at 9:19 PM, Nicholas Stock  wrote:
>>>
>>> Paul, I uploaded it without issue on the PC (tried using my Mac, no dice 
>>> using Chrome, it could connect but kept resetting the clock...). The 
>>> interface is awesome as is the ability to change all the fonts etc 
>>> bravo sir! Far better clock now
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:39 PM Nicholas Stock  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> That is awesome Paul. I will definitely try this with mine.
>>>>
>>>> Many many thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Nick
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:33 PM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware 
>>>>> for the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity 
>>>>> that 
>>>>> the ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now *I* have - though I'm not 
>>>>> the first. Note that they released a *v2* of this clock that does 
>>>>> have WiFi connectivity, so this firmware is for the original *v1* clocks. 
>>>>> I went a bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you 
>>>>> can 
>>>>> upload new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 
>>>>> day weather forecast etc.- details are here 
>>>>> <https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/>.
>>>>>
>>>>> My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools 
>>>>> <https://esphome.github.io/esp-web-tools/> interface - you can flash 
>>>>> the firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyhow, hope you like.
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/683e06ba-6166-4b47-8dab-ecc451bf3957n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>  
>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/683e06ba-6166-4b47-8dab-ecc451bf3957n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Databook for Futaba VFD displays?

[Paul Andrews]

Try emailing the contacts listed 
at https://www.futaba.co.jp/en/product/vfd. I’ve got results in the past 
with various companies that still exist. It isn’t unusual for them to keep 
old libraries of this stuff.

On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 9:52:36 AM UTC-5 Dekatron42 wrote:

> Thanks, yes I think I will be fine from the information in the diagram for 
> these VFD's.
>
> But a data book would be very welcome especially since I have a bunch of 
> other VFD arriving, later and hopefully some of them are from Futaba, as I 
> bought what was left from an old radio/repair shop and I don't know what's 
> in the box yet.
>
> I have been looking some more for a Futaba VFD data book but it seems 
> impossible to find one anywhere.
>
> /Martin
>
> On Thursday 1 February 2024 at 09:58:58 UTC+1 andybiker wrote:
>
>> Hi Martin,
>>
>> This seems to be a bare VFD, the elektor article gives the pinout and a 
>> fair guess at how to drive the filement.
>>
>> I'm not sure you'll find a full datasheet due to the age.
>>
>> treat it as any other VFD.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Andrew
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 6:58:53 PM UTC Dekatron42 wrote:
>>
>>> I've Googled some and haven't been able to find a databook for Futaba 
>>> VFD displays, does anyone know where I can download a PDF?
>>>
>>> I'm right now interested in finding a datasheet for the 10*14 pixels 
>>> display DM-4Z 2E that is used in the Elektor June 1983 article "Spectrum 
>>> display".
>>>
>>> /Martin
>>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Four unidentified tubes

[Paul Andrews]

Nice. Love the matrix tube!

On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 1:59:36 PM UTC-5 Adam Piórko wrote:

> Hi,
> I have prepared short videos for those interested in how these tubes work.
> I tested at 170V and a 22K resistor.
>
> Matrix tube:
> https://youtube.com/shorts/t5ID4yaS7O0
>
> Segments tube:
> https://youtu.be/qwhtoexY2Rg
>
> Adam
>
>
> wtorek, 31 października 2023 o 05:40:08 UTC+1 Richard Scales napisał(a):
>
> Great finds indeed - love the multi segment tubes!
> - Richard
>
> On Saturday, 28 October 2023 at 22:00:17 UTC+1 Adam Piórko wrote:
>
> Auction on German ebay
>
> sobota, 28 października 2023 o 22:43:37 UTC+2 Audrey napisał(a):
>
> Those are extremely unusual. Where did you find them?
>
> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023, 3:01 PM Adam Piórko  wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> At the beginning, I apologize for any potential language errors.
>
> Recently, I purchased a Nixie tubes, including some without any labels 
> that I've never seen online before.
>
> To avoid influencing the responses to my questions by showing all the 
> pictures right away, I created a form with images and questions. 
>
> Link to the form: https://forms.gle/frmLGNC21vvtwB7a7
>
> For those interested in what others think, here's a spreadsheet with the 
> responses: 
>
>
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nLfibsxU6VJlkkvQ5WDbqf5lvFvVf9YXliW_yJ_-SUo/edit?usp=sharing
>
> For those who want to see higher-resolution images: 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cweRUT3Vihw6jMqjabuwxRFCLpToSJAp?usp=sharing
>
>
> They don't know how to use the dekatron, so I won't check its operation. 
>
> As for the nixie tube, what value of limiting resistors do you suggest for 
> 170V? 
>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "neonixie-l" group.
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Reaches for popcorn....

[Paul Andrews]

Yeah. He could easily have got more I think. Possibly they were sold off 
eBay, He posted on Nixie Tube Artists Facebook group before listing them.

On Sunday, February 4, 2024 at 7:38:54 PM UTC-5 Audrey wrote:

> Someone did the buy it now for $1650 for the CD47 listing, jeez...
>
> On Sun, Feb 4, 2024, 7:25 PM Nicholas Stock  wrote:
>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/176223472746
>>
>> Fugly tubes anyone? I kid (sort of...)..
>>
>> Super, super rare. Don't see these at auction often, not my listing!
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Nick
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

OK. Good to know. There are a few clones of the original clock that use 
different pinouts. Take a look at src/GLOBAL_DEFINES.h for some examples.

On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 7:08:09 AM UTC-5 Allen wrote:

> That is the very have as well. It works great!
>
> Allen Wisbey, W1SBY
>
>
> On Feb 5, 2024, at 2:45 AM, leo oel  wrote:
>
> Hello, I have this version of clock, will this firmware work for me?
>
>
>  [image: 2024-02-05_10-38-00-693.jpg] [image: 024-02-05_10-38-00-643.jpg]
>
> понедельник, 5 февраля 2024 г. в 04:09:59 UTC+2, Allen: 
>
>> Thanks for this!
>>
>> I was able to upload it to my clock with no issues whatsoever.
>>
>> Kudos!
>>
>> Allen Wisbey, W1SBY
>>
>>
>> On Jan 26, 2024, at 8:51 PM, Paul Andrews  wrote:
>>
>> Of course, it works for me using Chrome on a Mac. My version of Chrome 
>> is Version 120.0.6099.234 (Official Build) (arm64), and the device was 
>> /dev/cu.usbserial-120
>>
>>
>> On Jan 26, 2024, at 9:19 PM, Nicholas Stock  wrote:
>>
>> Paul, I uploaded it without issue on the PC (tried using my Mac, no dice 
>> using Chrome, it could connect but kept resetting the clock...). The 
>> interface is awesome as is the ability to change all the fonts etc 
>> bravo sir! Far better clock now
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:39 PM Nicholas Stock  wrote:
>>
>>> That is awesome Paul. I will definitely try this with mine.
>>>
>>> Many many thanks,
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:33 PM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>>>
>>>> I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware 
>>>> for the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that 
>>>> the ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now *I* have - though I'm not 
>>>> the first. Note that they released a *v2* of this clock that does have 
>>>> WiFi connectivity, so this firmware is for the original *v1* clocks. I 
>>>> went a bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can 
>>>> upload new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 
>>>> day weather forecast etc.- details are here 
>>>> <https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/>.
>>>>
>>>> My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools 
>>>> <https://esphome.github.io/esp-web-tools/> interface - you can flash 
>>>> the firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.
>>>>
>>>> Anyhow, hope you like.
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/683e06ba-6166-4b47-8dab-ecc451bf3957n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/683e06ba-6166-4b47-8dab-ecc451bf3957n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRHLgFWWdEiOBf-k8fxCRYSyzWvEQxUSzcMqQ0RgTT4uVTQ%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
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>>
>>
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>&

Re: [neonixie-l] EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

I don’t know. You could back up the firmware first and then try it. Also if it doesn’t work, you could try building it from source and tweaking it, it is possible that some of the pin assignments might be different? Building it is actually pretty painless if you install vscode and the platform.io plugin (instructions are available if you follow the links to my GitHub repository).Sent from my iPadOn Feb 5, 2024, at 3:45 AM, leo oel  wrote:Hello, I have this version of clock, will this firmware work for me? <2024-02-05_10-38-00-693.jpg> <024-02-05_10-38-00-643.jpg>понедельник, 5 февраля 2024 г. в 04:09:59 UTC+2, Allen: Thanks for this!I was able to upload it to my clock with no issues whatsoever.Kudos!Allen Wisbey, W1SBYOn Jan 26, 2024, at 8:51 PM, Paul Andrews <judg...@gmail.com> wrote:Of course, it works for me using Chrome on a Mac. My version of Chrome is Version 120.0.6099.234 (Official Build) (arm64), and the device was /dev/cu.usbserial-120On Jan 26, 2024, at 9:19 PM, Nicholas Stock <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:Paul, I uploaded it without issue on the PC (tried using my Mac, no dice using Chrome, it could connect but kept resetting the clock...). The interface is awesome as is the ability to change all the fonts etc bravo sir! Far better clock nowOn Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:39 PM Nicholas Stock <nick...@gmail.com> wrote:That is awesome Paul. I will definitely try this with mine.Many many thanks,NickOn Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:33 PM Paul Andrews <pa...@nixies.us> wrote:I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware for the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that the ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now I have - though I'm not the first. Note that they released a v2 of this clock that does have WiFi connectivity, so this firmware is for the original v1 clocks. I went a bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can upload new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 day weather forecast etc.- details are here.My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools interface - you can flash the firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.Anyhow, hope you like.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/683e06ba-6166-4b47-8dab-ecc451bf3957n%40googlegroups.com.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/neonixie-l/3YbJj3jF-qQ/unsubscribe.To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRHLgFWWdEiOBf-k8fxCRYSyzWvEQxUSzcMqQ0RgTT4uVTQ%40mail.gmail.com.



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<024-02-05_10-38-00-643.jpg><2024-02-05_10-38-00-693.jpg>



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[neonixie-l] Re: EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

Are you using mqtt in your clock? I use 
https://github.com/bertmelis/espMqttClient in one of my clocks to connect 
to my Bambu X1C 3D printer - it publishes updates on the printer status 
that I can display in my living room.

On Saturday, January 27, 2024 at 10:38:55 AM UTC-5 Benoit Tourret wrote:

I also like esp web tools, this is a great piece of art !!!
I am using the version used on Home Assistant, called EspHome 
<https://esphome.io/>. this is an esp32, 8266, rp2040 "os" used with simple 
yaml configuration files.
I use it with success for many sensors and displays in my home, and I try 
to use it on my new clock: B-7971/eight equipped with SmartSockets.
up to now I can display time / date and internal + external temperature. I 
wish I could display message from HomeAssistant...


Le samedi 27 janvier 2024 à 02:33:28 UTC+1, Paul Andrews a écrit :

I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware for 
the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that the 
ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now *I* have - though I'm not the first. 
Note that they released a *v2* of this clock that does have WiFi 
connectivity, so this firmware is for the original *v1* clocks. I went a 
bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can upload 
new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 day 
weather forecast etc.- details are here 
<https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/>.

My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools 
<https://esphome.github.io/esp-web-tools/> interface - you can flash the 
firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.

Anyhow, hope you like.

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Re: [neonixie-l] EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

Of course, it works for me using Chrome on a Mac. My version of Chrome is 
Version 120.0.6099.234 (Official Build) (arm64), and the device was 
/dev/cu.usbserial-120

> On Jan 26, 2024, at 9:19 PM, Nicholas Stock  wrote:
> 
> Paul, I uploaded it without issue on the PC (tried using my Mac, no dice 
> using Chrome, it could connect but kept resetting the clock...). The 
> interface is awesome as is the ability to change all the fonts etc bravo 
> sir! Far better clock now
> 
> On Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:39 PM Nicholas Stock  <mailto:nickst...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> That is awesome Paul. I will definitely try this with mine.
>> 
>> Many many thanks,
>> 
>> Nick
>> 
>> On Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 5:33 PM Paul Andrews > <mailto:p...@nixies.us>> wrote:
>>> I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware for 
>>> the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that the 
>>> ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now I have - though I'm not the first. 
>>> Note that they released a v2 of this clock that does have WiFi 
>>> connectivity, so this firmware is for the original v1 clocks. I went a bit 
>>> crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can upload new 
>>> clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 day weather 
>>> forecast etc.- details are here 
>>> <https://www.nixies.us/projects/elekstubeips-clock/>.
>>> 
>>> My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools 
>>> <https://esphome.github.io/esp-web-tools/> interface - you can flash the 
>>> firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.
>>> 
>>> Anyhow, hope you like.
>>> 
>>> -- 
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[neonixie-l] EleksTubeIPS replacement firmware

[Paul Andrews]

I recently did a search to see if EleksMaker had updated the firmware for 
the EleksTubeIPS clock so that it could use the WiFi connectivity that the 
ESP32 has. Well, they hadn't, but now *I* have - though I'm not the first. 
Note that they released a *v2* of this clock that does have WiFi 
connectivity, so this firmware is for the original *v1* clocks. I went a 
bit crazy with it: It syncs with NTP, has a web-based GUI, you can upload 
new clock faces from the GUI, you can configure it to display a 5 day 
weather forecast etc.- details are here 
.

My software engineer heart particularly loves the esp web tools 
 interface - you can flash the 
firmware and connect the clock to WiFi directly from the page above.

Anyhow, hope you like.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Helping Nixie Tubes Fire in a Darkened Room

[Paul Andrews]

You could have a high value resistor permanently connected between the 
cathodes and ground so there is always a minimum current flowing through 
them?

On Friday, December 1, 2023 at 8:30:47 AM UTC-5 Robert G. Schaffrath wrote:

> It would an interesting idea but the glass would block the ionizing 
> radiation (alpha and probably most beta particles from daughter elements in 
> the ore).
>
> I have the same issue with B-7971's in a dark room. Unless I shine a 
> flashlight at them, it takes them a bit of time to turn on from a cold 
> start.
>
>
> On Thursday, November 30, 2023 at 4:43:52 PM UTC-5 Nicholas Stock wrote:
>
> May I suggest a small piece of uranium ore placed next to the clock?
>
> LOL.
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Helping Nixie Tubes Fire in a Darkened Room

[Paul Andrews]

Are they also dimmed using an LDR? If so, turn dimming off - if you have 
access to the source code, you could turn dimming off briefly when the 
clock turns on.

On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 9:43:48 PM UTC-5 Jeff Walton wrote:

> I've recently come across a situation where I have some tubes in a clock 
> that are being directly driven and are having trouble starting when the 
> room is darkened but light right up when a room light is turned on.  These 
> particular tubes were probably intended for use in a calculator.  They are 
> seven segment neon MG-17G tubes.  Once the tubes have any of the segments 
> lit, there is really no issue with the performance.  It's when the tubes go 
> completely dark if a space is used while scrolling a message or lighting a 
> dash on and off to emulate a colon.  I'm wondering if others have found any 
> particular tricks to help convince tubes to light up.  There is no 
> "baselighting" and the HV is ~172v.  I'm considering increasing the HV by 
> 10-15v but don't want to over drive the tubes.  Short of putting a 
> radioactive source in the vicinity, are there other things that anyone has 
> had any luck with?
>
> Jeff
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Introduction & Telefunken Varisymbol alphanumeric advertisement sign ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370

[Paul Andrews]

Regarding ZM1370 - I literally posted a link to my photos of one earlier in a reply to your initial post.On Nov 24, 2023, at 6:59 PM, Magnedyne  wrote:Alright I’ve done some more research and it appears that this sign might even more special than I previously thought. Some have claimed that Telefunken never sold the ZM1360 and ZM1370 due to them turning out not economically viable. The datasheet for the Varisymbol mentioned datasheets for the ZM1360 and 70 being worked on. I have furthermore found no documentation regarding the ZM1360 and ZM1370 ever being commercially sold. Now of course a lack of documentation is in no way proof but I’ve also not been able to find anyone, or even pictures for that manner, of these two tube types. If this were to be true I’d have pre production, or rather sample tubes as production never happened. I’m very glad that none of these seemingly nonexistent tubes are „defective“/have a coating.Terry S schrieb am Donnerstag, 16. November 2023 um 01:10:31 UTC+1:I agree, don't change a wire! It's a piece of history as-is. Fix any defects and let it live as a tribute to the original designer. Who are you (or any of us) to second guess the designer? Could you update it with an Arduino and make it do back flips?  Yes of course But should you? No.On Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 6:36:09 AM UTC-6 Magnedyne wrote:I'll probably leave it as is. I find the curiosity/historical aspect to be more interesting and important than having something which has a use. It's just like the homemade computerkits I collect, each tells their own little story. Some are unfinished, who knows for what reason maybe something got in the way, somebody lost motivation or something else entirely. I wouldn't even think about finishing these kits just to have a functional computer, it's more interesting this way.Yes I'm certain the tubes are not socketed. The baseplate has holes drilled in it which the leads poke through. The unused leads have been bent to the side so that the tube stays in place. I'm uncertain if glue has been used. The wires are soldered to the pins directly.For now I'll keep it running for some time, like Terry suggested, maybe the tubes will come back on their own but I certainly doubt it.Alex schrieb am Mittwoch, 15. November 2023 um 09:48:07 UTC+1:Nice Find.Looking at those pics it seems clear to my eye that this has cathode resistors rather than anode, one for each used cathode. These will then likely be in three groups, Telefunken only, Varisign only and common to both. This then yields one anode wire to all (red wire?)  And three cathode wires (three blacks). It does look like they have only put tails on used cathodes.Circuit is likely a simple astable / flip flop with a pair of big transistors for switching the cathodes, maybe with a variable amount of capacitance on its base for the fade effect?I would suggest an apprentice build back then, maybe the mechanics are nice but I would say the electronics are fairly hum-drum.My approach with this would be to remove the resistor strips, add missing cathode wires, make up some ruler like PCBs with serial HV latches on and replace the main veroboard with a PCB with your favourite micro / embedded solution. This can take in / use the original switches and transformer so with the back on it would look the same. You can then keep the bits removed for archive or if there is enough space, mount new bits on top as a mezzanine. Depends on your goals really, but as is it's more of a curio / collector asset only really...It would blow their minds back then to have scrolling dynamically updated text, and would make use of all the segments (assuming those have not been poisoned to oblivion with deposits).For your current segment poisoning, you could parallel another fairly high R resistor across the existing ones for that tube to up the drive. Certainly no multiplexing going on here! Are you certain they are not socketed? Looks odd with the wires disappearing into the material like that.Best of luck!- AlexOn Wednesday, 15 November 2023 at 07:34:47 UTC Magnedyne wrote:



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Re: [neonixie-l] Introduction & Telefunken Varisymbol alphanumeric advertisement sign ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370

[Paul Andrews]

I should also say that the anode voltage might be full-wave rectified. Life 
is not simple.

On Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 2:36:58 PM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:

> Might be worth checking some voltages - bearing in mind that those 
> voltages are likely to be lethal if they short through you. If you've never 
> done that kind of thing you should be very cautious. You should have an 
> isolation transformer and plug the sign in to that.
>
> Power supplies can deteriorate over time, specifically the capacitors dry 
> out if they aren't used and the voltage becomes unstable, given that these 
> tubes worked better just before you bought this, it is making me wonder if 
> this is a problem you are having. If you have an oscilloscope, that would 
> be better than a multimeter so you can see if any mains frequency is making 
> it through. You could probably figure out what the voltage should be by 
> checking the resistors on each cathode and comparing them with those on the 
> datasheet I posted a link to. There is a good chance that the tubes are 
> being multiplexed, which would mean that the resistors would typically be 
> lower for a given anode voltage.
>
> Can you post some close-ups of the circuit board, transformer and part of 
> the wiring loom?
>
> On Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 1:55:39 PM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:
>
>> I have opened it up and removed all of the crumbling foam it was filled 
>> with. Lucky me, it wasn't foam which turned to goop.
>> Well, the tubes are not socketed, instead they're directly soldered in. 
>> So definitely not corrosion. Seems like it's the tubes.
>>
>> [image: IMG_20231114_194941.jpg]
>>
>> Paul Andrews schrieb am Dienstag, 14. November 2023 um 16:09:22 UTC+1:
>>
>>> Regarding the yield? Just my (and others) experience with 'new old 
>>> stock' tubes. I don't have any information on what the yield was at the 
>>> time of manufacture. Its easy to rationalize a low yield because of the 
>>> large seal between the glass and the body, but that would just be guesswork.
>>>
>>> Interesting that the affected tubes were better in the original photos. 
>>> In the U.S. we have a product called 'deoxit' that is used to fix old 
>>> electrical contacts that may have some dirt/corrosion on them. It is just 
>>> sprayed on the contacts and then the device is used as normal, though I 
>>> don't know what the breakdown voltage is of the product. I have used it in 
>>> old vacuum tube devices.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 12:56:18 AM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alright, thanks for the tips. I’ll see what I can do. Not doubling the 
>>>> current on other tubes should be obvious, if anything ill modify the 
>>>> circuit on those to run on like 60% current or something, don’t want those 
>>>> to wear out after all. How long would I double the current on the affected 
>>>> tubes? I’m guessing until it lights up entirely, but what if it doesn’t? I 
>>>> don’t want to risk damaging any tubes further unless I have access to a 
>>>> replacement. Interesting regarding the yield, where did you find that info?
>>>> Paul Andrews schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 um 22:55:13 UTC+1:
>>>>
>>>>> Because all the segments are in the same plane, it is possible that 
>>>>> they could all get deposits equally, so increasing the current may work. 
>>>>> Yes, the current is controlled by a resistor. The documentation I linked 
>>>>> you to gives the recommended current for each segment. To try to 
>>>>> re-condition the segments I would double the current, but I would only do 
>>>>> that with the affected tubes.
>>>>>
>>>>> These tubes are known for having a low yield so it is possible that 
>>>>> the affected tubes have other problems, such as outgassing. I would be 
>>>>> very 
>>>>> careful when removing them from any socket they may be in to avoid 
>>>>> breaking 
>>>>> a seal between the pin and the tube.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 4:22:00 PM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Furthermore I should mention that the partial glow does not affect 
>>>>>> only specific elements of the tube but any element inside the tube. 
>>>>>> Can this be caused by deposits?
>>>>>> Nicholas Stock schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 u

Re: [neonixie-l] Introduction & Telefunken Varisymbol alphanumeric advertisement sign ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370

[Paul Andrews]

Might be worth checking some voltages - bearing in mind that those voltages 
are likely to be lethal if they short through you. If you've never done 
that kind of thing you should be very cautious. You should have an 
isolation transformer and plug the sign in to that.

Power supplies can deteriorate over time, specifically the capacitors dry 
out if they aren't used and the voltage becomes unstable, given that these 
tubes worked better just before you bought this, it is making me wonder if 
this is a problem you are having. If you have an oscilloscope, that would 
be better than a multimeter so you can see if any mains frequency is making 
it through. You could probably figure out what the voltage should be by 
checking the resistors on each cathode and comparing them with those on the 
datasheet I posted a link to. There is a good chance that the tubes are 
being multiplexed, which would mean that the resistors would typically be 
lower for a given anode voltage.

Can you post some close-ups of the circuit board, transformer and part of 
the wiring loom?

On Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 1:55:39 PM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:

> I have opened it up and removed all of the crumbling foam it was filled 
> with. Lucky me, it wasn't foam which turned to goop.
> Well, the tubes are not socketed, instead they're directly soldered in. So 
> definitely not corrosion. Seems like it's the tubes.
>
> [image: IMG_20231114_194941.jpg]
>
> Paul Andrews schrieb am Dienstag, 14. November 2023 um 16:09:22 UTC+1:
>
>> Regarding the yield? Just my (and others) experience with 'new old stock' 
>> tubes. I don't have any information on what the yield was at the time of 
>> manufacture. Its easy to rationalize a low yield because of the large seal 
>> between the glass and the body, but that would just be guesswork.
>>
>> Interesting that the affected tubes were better in the original photos. 
>> In the U.S. we have a product called 'deoxit' that is used to fix old 
>> electrical contacts that may have some dirt/corrosion on them. It is just 
>> sprayed on the contacts and then the device is used as normal, though I 
>> don't know what the breakdown voltage is of the product. I have used it in 
>> old vacuum tube devices.
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 12:56:18 AM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Alright, thanks for the tips. I’ll see what I can do. Not doubling the 
>>> current on other tubes should be obvious, if anything ill modify the 
>>> circuit on those to run on like 60% current or something, don’t want those 
>>> to wear out after all. How long would I double the current on the affected 
>>> tubes? I’m guessing until it lights up entirely, but what if it doesn’t? I 
>>> don’t want to risk damaging any tubes further unless I have access to a 
>>> replacement. Interesting regarding the yield, where did you find that info?
>>> Paul Andrews schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 um 22:55:13 UTC+1:
>>>
>>>> Because all the segments are in the same plane, it is possible that 
>>>> they could all get deposits equally, so increasing the current may work. 
>>>> Yes, the current is controlled by a resistor. The documentation I linked 
>>>> you to gives the recommended current for each segment. To try to 
>>>> re-condition the segments I would double the current, but I would only do 
>>>> that with the affected tubes.
>>>>
>>>> These tubes are known for having a low yield so it is possible that the 
>>>> affected tubes have other problems, such as outgassing. I would be very 
>>>> careful when removing them from any socket they may be in to avoid 
>>>> breaking 
>>>> a seal between the pin and the tube.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 4:22:00 PM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Furthermore I should mention that the partial glow does not affect 
>>>>> only specific elements of the tube but any element inside the tube. 
>>>>> Can this be caused by deposits?
>>>>> Nicholas Stock schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 um 21:56:10 UTC+1:
>>>>>
>>>>>> WHAT A FIND!!! OMG. I didn't even know there were smaller versions of 
>>>>>> the ZM1350 (shame on me!).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The tubes with the partially lit segments can probably be revived 
>>>>>> with a little extra current... just be careful not to burn them during 
>>>>>> the 
>>>>>> healing process (if it works..).
>>

Re: [neonixie-l] Introduction & Telefunken Varisymbol alphanumeric advertisement sign ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370

[Paul Andrews]

Regarding the yield? Just my (and others) experience with 'new old stock' 
tubes. I don't have any information on what the yield was at the time of 
manufacture. Its easy to rationalize a low yield because of the large seal 
between the glass and the body, but that would just be guesswork.

Interesting that the affected tubes were better in the original photos. In 
the U.S. we have a product called 'deoxit' that is used to fix old 
electrical contacts that may have some dirt/corrosion on them. It is just 
sprayed on the contacts and then the device is used as normal, though I 
don't know what the breakdown voltage is of the product. I have used it in 
old vacuum tube devices.

On Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 12:56:18 AM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:

>
> Alright, thanks for the tips. I’ll see what I can do. Not doubling the 
> current on other tubes should be obvious, if anything ill modify the 
> circuit on those to run on like 60% current or something, don’t want those 
> to wear out after all. How long would I double the current on the affected 
> tubes? I’m guessing until it lights up entirely, but what if it doesn’t? I 
> don’t want to risk damaging any tubes further unless I have access to a 
> replacement. Interesting regarding the yield, where did you find that info?
> Paul Andrews schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 um 22:55:13 UTC+1:
>
>> Because all the segments are in the same plane, it is possible that they 
>> could all get deposits equally, so increasing the current may work. Yes, 
>> the current is controlled by a resistor. The documentation I linked you to 
>> gives the recommended current for each segment. To try to re-condition the 
>> segments I would double the current, but I would only do that with the 
>> affected tubes.
>>
>> These tubes are known for having a low yield so it is possible that the 
>> affected tubes have other problems, such as outgassing. I would be very 
>> careful when removing them from any socket they may be in to avoid breaking 
>> a seal between the pin and the tube.
>>
>> On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 4:22:00 PM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Furthermore I should mention that the partial glow does not affect only 
>>> specific elements of the tube but any element inside the tube. 
>>> Can this be caused by deposits?
>>> Nicholas Stock schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 um 21:56:10 UTC+1:
>>>
>>>> WHAT A FIND!!! OMG. I didn't even know there were smaller versions of 
>>>> the ZM1350 (shame on me!).
>>>>
>>>> The tubes with the partially lit segments can probably be revived with 
>>>> a little extra current... just be careful not to burn them during the 
>>>> healing process (if it works..).
>>>>
>>>> Wow..
>>>>
>>>> Welcome to the group,
>>>>
>>>> Nick
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Nov 13, 2023 at 12:07 PM Magnedyne  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Well, this serves as my introduction and and as a thread about a 
>>>>> beautiful sign I just picked up.
>>>>> Firstly something about myself.
>>>>> I’m a 17 year old collector and (hobby) historian of vintage 
>>>>> computers, my interests are mainly minis, mainframes, early micros and 
>>>>> kit/diy computers. But I’ve got a few other different bits and bobs 
>>>>> throughout the history of technology as well.
>>>>> Now back to the reason I joined this group. 
>>>>> I came across an absolutely beautiful Telefunken advertising sign for 
>>>>> the, frankly underdocumented, Telefunken Varisymbol tubes. They were 
>>>>> Telefunkens response to the Burroughs 7971 alphanumerical tubes. These 
>>>>> were 
>>>>> only sold for a very brief amount of time and exclusively in Europe. 
>>>>> Interestingly these are flat like panaplex tubes and the anode is not 
>>>>> a grid, but a coating on the inside of the tube. These are the earliest 
>>>>> gas 
>>>>> discharge tubes, well the ones I’m aware of anyhow, which used such a 
>>>>> coating. 
>>>>> The sign is a handmade one off which was lugged around to fairs to 
>>>>> advertise the Varisymbol to potential Customers. It implements all three 
>>>>> sizes of the Varisymbol ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370. It can alternate between 
>>>>> „TELEFUNKEN“ and „VARISYMBOL“ at four different speeds. Switching between 
>>>>> the sign reading „TELEFUNKEN“  three times, then „VARIS

Re: [neonixie-l] Introduction & Telefunken Varisymbol alphanumeric advertisement sign ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370

[Paul Andrews]

Because all the segments are in the same plane, it is possible that they 
could all get deposits equally, so increasing the current may work. Yes, 
the current is controlled by a resistor. The documentation I linked you to 
gives the recommended current for each segment. To try to re-condition the 
segments I would double the current, but I would only do that with the 
affected tubes.

These tubes are known for having a low yield so it is possible that the 
affected tubes have other problems, such as outgassing. I would be very 
careful when removing them from any socket they may be in to avoid breaking 
a seal between the pin and the tube.

On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 4:22:00 PM UTC-5 Magnedyne wrote:

>
> Furthermore I should mention that the partial glow does not affect only 
> specific elements of the tube but any element inside the tube. 
> Can this be caused by deposits?
> Nicholas Stock schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 um 21:56:10 UTC+1:
>
>> WHAT A FIND!!! OMG. I didn't even know there were smaller versions of the 
>> ZM1350 (shame on me!).
>>
>> The tubes with the partially lit segments can probably be revived with a 
>> little extra current... just be careful not to burn them during the healing 
>> process (if it works..).
>>
>> Wow..
>>
>> Welcome to the group,
>>
>> Nick
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 13, 2023 at 12:07 PM Magnedyne  wrote:
>>
>>> Well, this serves as my introduction and and as a thread about a 
>>> beautiful sign I just picked up.
>>> Firstly something about myself.
>>> I’m a 17 year old collector and (hobby) historian of vintage computers, 
>>> my interests are mainly minis, mainframes, early micros and kit/diy 
>>> computers. But I’ve got a few other different bits and bobs throughout the 
>>> history of technology as well.
>>> Now back to the reason I joined this group. 
>>> I came across an absolutely beautiful Telefunken advertising sign for 
>>> the, frankly underdocumented, Telefunken Varisymbol tubes. They were 
>>> Telefunkens response to the Burroughs 7971 alphanumerical tubes. These were 
>>> only sold for a very brief amount of time and exclusively in Europe. 
>>> Interestingly these are flat like panaplex tubes and the anode is not a 
>>> grid, but a coating on the inside of the tube. These are the earliest gas 
>>> discharge tubes, well the ones I’m aware of anyhow, which used such a 
>>> coating. 
>>> The sign is a handmade one off which was lugged around to fairs to 
>>> advertise the Varisymbol to potential Customers. It implements all three 
>>> sizes of the Varisymbol ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370. It can alternate between 
>>> „TELEFUNKEN“ and „VARISYMBOL“ at four different speeds. Switching between 
>>> the sign reading „TELEFUNKEN“  three times, then „VARISYMBOL“ three times 
>>> and the sign reading „TELEFUNKEN VARISYMBOL TELEFUNKEN“/ „VARISYMBOL 
>>> TELEFUNKEN VARISYMBOL“  is possible as well. Unfortunately three tubes 
>>> don’t display quite properly. I’m hoping it’s just the electronics, I 
>>> haven’t had time for a detailed diagnosis yet. Even if it’s the tubes, it 
>>> seems to be the most common type at least, the ZM1350 which seems to have 
>>> popped up most often in the past.
>>> Any further info about the Varisymbol is greatly appreciated.
>>> Cheers,
>>> Magnedyne
>>> [image: IMG_0026.jpeg]
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_0025.jpeg]
>>> [image: IMG_0021.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/20e32d2c-3ac1-4656-b532-77b22f6a35f1n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Introduction & Telefunken Varisymbol alphanumeric advertisement sign ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370

[Paul Andrews]

An amazing find. I have some ZM1370, I've never seen any ZM1360. You can 
find some documentation here https://www.nixies.us/bwg_gallery/zm1370/.

BTW Nick, the ZM1360 is *bigger *than the ZM1350 at 60mm high.

On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 4:39:17 PM UTC-5 Nicholas Stock wrote:

> Oh, it moves? Probably a leaky tube then I'm afraid.. unless anybody else 
> on the list has ideas?
>
> On Mon, Nov 13, 2023 at 1:22 PM Magnedyne  wrote:
>
>>
>> Furthermore I should mention that the partial glow does not affect only 
>> specific elements of the tube but any element inside the tube. 
>> Can this be caused by deposits?
>> Nicholas Stock schrieb am Montag, 13. November 2023 um 21:56:10 UTC+1:
>>
>>> WHAT A FIND!!! OMG. I didn't even know there were smaller versions of 
>>> the ZM1350 (shame on me!).
>>>
>>> The tubes with the partially lit segments can probably be revived with a 
>>> little extra current... just be careful not to burn them during the healing 
>>> process (if it works..).
>>>
>>> Wow..
>>>
>>> Welcome to the group,
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 13, 2023 at 12:07 PM Magnedyne  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Well, this serves as my introduction and and as a thread about a 
 beautiful sign I just picked up.
 Firstly something about myself.
 I’m a 17 year old collector and (hobby) historian of vintage computers, 
 my interests are mainly minis, mainframes, early micros and kit/diy 
 computers. But I’ve got a few other different bits and bobs throughout the 
 history of technology as well.
 Now back to the reason I joined this group. 
 I came across an absolutely beautiful Telefunken advertising sign for 
 the, frankly underdocumented, Telefunken Varisymbol tubes. They were 
 Telefunkens response to the Burroughs 7971 alphanumerical tubes. These 
 were 
 only sold for a very brief amount of time and exclusively in Europe. 
 Interestingly these are flat like panaplex tubes and the anode is not a 
 grid, but a coating on the inside of the tube. These are the earliest gas 
 discharge tubes, well the ones I’m aware of anyhow, which used such a 
 coating. 
 The sign is a handmade one off which was lugged around to fairs to 
 advertise the Varisymbol to potential Customers. It implements all three 
 sizes of the Varisymbol ZM1350 ZM1360 & ZM1370. It can alternate between 
 „TELEFUNKEN“ and „VARISYMBOL“ at four different speeds. Switching between 
 the sign reading „TELEFUNKEN“  three times, then „VARISYMBOL“ three times 
 and the sign reading „TELEFUNKEN VARISYMBOL TELEFUNKEN“/ „VARISYMBOL 
 TELEFUNKEN VARISYMBOL“  is possible as well. Unfortunately three tubes 
 don’t display quite properly. I’m hoping it’s just the electronics, I 
 haven’t had time for a detailed diagnosis yet. Even if it’s the tubes, it 
 seems to be the most common type at least, the ZM1350 which seems to have 
 popped up most often in the past.
 Any further info about the Varisymbol is greatly appreciated.
 Cheers,
 Magnedyne
 [image: IMG_0026.jpeg]

 [image: IMG_0025.jpeg]
 [image: IMG_0021.jpeg]



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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing Displays

[Paul Andrews]

Well you don't wait in an ISR, so in the ISR it is really just:

- figure out what bits to set
- set them
- figure out when you next want the ISR to trigger
- arrange for that to happen

I've only ever set 64 bits in an ISR so I've no idea if it would break if I 
tried to set more, but make sure you use SPI to do it. If you are doing 
your own bit-twiddling, don't use the arduino functions, they have a lot of 
overhead. If you can't use SPI (so you have to do your own bit twiddling) 
you can get the important stuff from the arduino functions and write your 
own methods to do it without all the overhead, but really your circuit 
should be designed so that you *can* use SPI.

On Wednesday, November 1, 2023 at 11:19:48 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote:

> @Paul - I have no idea of the sense of scale and the relative times taken. 
> If I were to hang another HV driver on the chain with associated 
> electronics to switch the HV, is there going to be enough time to do the 
> following:
>
> Set the bits for the segments required- I add this step just in case any 
> settling time might be be required
> Set the bits for the segments required and the anode(s) on
> Wait for 400us (typical on time for the panaplex segments I have in mind
> Set the digits and anode(s) off again
> Loop to the next set of digits
>
> With 12 individual anodes - there would be 12 passes - one for each anode 
> that needed to be switched on
> If I used 2 drivers (using 3 x 16 bits for cathodes, I could use bits from 
> the remaining 16 to control the anodes. Thus there would be only 3 passes.
>
> Please stop me when I've gone off the scent (still mid-covid) :-(
>
> In Summary:
> Using the HV55xx for cathodes AND anodes
> Given i want 12 characters:
> with 1 driver I have 16 segments and 16 spare for the 12 anodes - easy but 
> slowest
> with 2 drivers I have 3 lots of 16 segments and then group the displays 
> into lumps of 4 (12 characters/3) and still have 16 bits to control the 
> anodes, of which there will now only be 3)
>
> Am I anywhere near close with the driver split and the pseudocode for the 
> ISR?
> I was thinking that there should be some uS delays either before and/or 
> after lighting the segments
>
>
> - Richard
>
>
> On Wednesday, 1 November 2023 at 15:01:20 UTC Richard Scales wrote:
>
>> @David - many thanks for that caution though there will not be (nor ever 
>> will there be!) any LEDS for this project!
>> @Pauld - thank you - I had thought of that but I was endeavouring to keep 
>> the code inside the ISR to an absolute minimum so thought that it would be 
>> best handled outside of it and hence separate from the HV chain. Using 
>> SPI.Transfer  to send 32, 64 or 96 bits - I guess it all happens fairly 
>> quickly!
>> @Benoit - I will look at that - ESP32 - another bridge thus far uncrossed!
>>  - Richard
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, 1 November 2023 at 14:54:53 UTC Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>
>>> Hello, 
>>>
>>> if an ESP8266 is not enough powerful, the ESP32 will do the job.
>>> the ESP_WROVER can be a good platfom.
>>> you should have a look to Mose's work on https://neonixie.com/Z57XM6DV2/
>>> the code is a bit "strong" as it can be used both on an 6 IV-9 clock and 
>>> a more traditional  6 digits Z57, superb clocks, all they need is 
>>> addressable LEDs for a more colorful background. and deactivable.
>>> the BH1750 luxmeter does a great job and is more sensible than a 
>>> standard photoresistor.
>>>
>>> Le mercredi 1 novembre 2023 à 14:38:44 UTC+1, David Pye a écrit :
>>>
 Hi,

 I offer you one caution with the ESP8266 boards - almost everything is 
 implemented in the libraries in software rather than onchip hw. 

 That means doing things like updating addressable LEDs can cause the 
 multiplexing to glitch slightly because of the need to send LED data at 
 strict timings.   (Or, if you sacrifice led timings to run your multiplex 
 interrupt routine, it can glitch the LEDs.  ).  Chips which have DMA/more 
 complex peripherals might avoid this.

 You might get away with it with certain combinations of things but it 
 was a bit of a pain for me.

 David

 On Wed, 1 Nov 2023, 11:54 Richard Scales,  
 wrote:

> Many thanks Nick. 
> Unless anything else comes to light I think I will forge ahead on that 
> basis. I want to drive 15 segment panaplex displays (16 including the DP) 
> so plan to use HV5530 or similar driver for the segments, probably two of 
> them. Then the same MPSA42/MPSA92 driver arrangement for the HV though 
> there are going to be 5 of those - I might be running low on pins it 
> using 
> a Wemos - I might consider a port expander for the extra pins needed - I 
> need to check pins required - I think 4 for the HV register chain, 6 for 
> the Anode switching (two drivers driving a 12 digit device - perhaps 5 
> for 
> a 10 digit device) plus I want to read a PIR and talk to a BMP-280 

[neonixie-l] Re: Multiplexing Displays

[Paul Andrews]

Hi Richard,

Remember that the Microchip chips (HV5530 etc.) are just *high voltage* 
port expanders. You can use them to control the MPSA42/MPSA92 transistors 
too, so assign a bunch of their pins to the cathodes and some to the 
anodes. Slight wrinkle is that that specific chip is open-drain, so you 
might need a pull-up on the MPSA42 base, not sure, I would have to check my 
circuit.

On Wednesday, November 1, 2023 at 7:54:43 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote:

> Many thanks Nick. 
> Unless anything else comes to light I think I will forge ahead on that 
> basis. I want to drive 15 segment panaplex displays (16 including the DP) 
> so plan to use HV5530 or similar driver for the segments, probably two of 
> them. Then the same MPSA42/MPSA92 driver arrangement for the HV though 
> there are going to be 5 of those - I might be running low on pins it using 
> a Wemos - I might consider a port expander for the extra pins needed - I 
> need to check pins required - I think 4 for the HV register chain, 6 for 
> the Anode switching (two drivers driving a 12 digit device - perhaps 5 for 
> a 10 digit device) plus I want to read a PIR and talk to a BMP-280 sensor. 
> Certainly a Wemos + port expander would do it - might get away with a Node 
> MCU or similar.
> OK, I just realised that I can use a single 32 bit driver  with two sets 
> of 16 bits, one going to each bank of displays.
> It still has the same pin requirements of the processor I think. That will 
> be a juggling excersise!
>  - Richard
>
>
> On Wednesday, 1 November 2023 at 11:10:02 UTC Nick Sargeant wrote:
>
>> Hi, 
>>
>> It’s not difficult. My fumbling attempts at a Nixie clock some time ago 
>> used a 4:1 multiplex ratio, using four digits and only one decoder. I used 
>> the same MPSA42/MPSA92 driver as your example. My multiplex function was 
>> called at 100Hz, so each digit was refreshing at 25Hz. It doesn’t flicker, 
>> and (whoa!) it is working 15 years later. 
>>
>> The only mod I had was when switching between digits, I turned the 
>> cathode drive off for a period of 20 microseconds, before selecting the 
>> correct anode and turning on the next digit. This helped prevent ghosting. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, 1 November 2023 at 10:14:25 UTC Richard Scales wrote:
>>
>>> Actually - I just looked through an example over at: 
>>> https://www.hackster.io/doug-domke/multiplexed-nixie-tube-clock-759ff5
>>>
>>> ... and it all seems fairly understandable, have I overthought this?
>>>
>>>  - Richard
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, 1 November 2023 at 09:22:03 UTC Richard Scales wrote:
>>>
 The time has come when I need to get a handle the dark and mysterious 
 art of multiplexing.
 I have an understanding of what needs to happen though am mostly at a 
 loss of how to implement it.
 I am broadly assuming that I should be using some kind of interrupt 
 routine to make the actual display work whilst the rest of the code gets 
 on 
 with the job of working out what to display and when to display it.
 Is it even going to be feasible to have some kind of interrupt routine 
 that decides what digits to light - set all the bits and then sets the 
 right anode(s) on and then off again giving enough time for the 
 persistence 
 of vision to produce a non flickering display when using something like a 
 wemos D1?

 I am thinking that the interrupt routine needs to increment which 
 digit(s) is/are being illuminated - set up the right bit pattern for the 
 cathodes and turn on the relevant anode(s) - wait a little and then turn 
 them off again. 
 My worry is that the amount of time that the displays should be left on 
 might be a little too long for the ISR as my understanding is that these 
 should be kept as lean as possible.

 Do I even need multiple interrupts (my covid addled brain is struggling 
 to type let alone contemplate multiple ISR's!)?
 Can the rest of my code run in a non time critical manner as it works 
 out what it wants to display where whilst the interrupt routine merryly 
 illuminates digits based on values which I store in a buffer somewhere? 
 ... or does the rest of my code have to work in come kind of 
 state-machine fashion?
 I would expect (hope) to handle display brightness via PWM signals to 
 HV Drivers. 
 I have no need for cross fade effects either - just basic multiplexing 
 of say 10 different multi segment displays. I am more than happy to break 
 up the displays into say 2 (or more) groups in order to makes things a 
 little easier.

 Can anyone point me in the right direction - ideally with some code 
 snippets that I can use as a foundation?

 Just to confirm, it is only the general implementation  to drive the 
 displays that eludes me - the rest of the clock code is well defined and 
 working well in a direct drive capacity.

 The desire to move to multi

Re: [neonixie-l] An odd, but interesting observation

[Paul Andrews]

There is a note about the safe handling and storage of tubes containing 
Krypton 85 at the end of this 
page https://www.nixies.us/bwg_gallery/122p224/

On Wednesday, October 11, 2023 at 10:54:42 AM UTC-4 Nicholas Stock wrote:

> Well, alas, most of that is now Rubidium (Kr85 half life is about 10.5 
> yrs), so you'll need to give those tubes a little extra push now... :)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Nick
>
> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 7:48 AM jb-electronics  
> wrote:
>
>> PS: Make that "Krypton 85"
>>
>> On 2023-10-11 10:48 a.m., jb-electronics wrote:
>>
>> Interesting indeed! Could be, especially given the fact that some 
>> Burroughts tubes have Radon 85 in them to help them ionize in the dark. 
>> Seems to be the same idea? Jens
>>
>> On 2023-10-09 9:43 p.m., cm...@zeusprune.ca wrote:
>>
>> To:
>> neoni...@googlegroups.com, Rob B  
>>
>>
>> On 2023-10-09 11:22, Rob B wrote: 
>>
>> When I was a kid [~50 yrs ago], I had several power strips with NE-2 
>> indicators, where the indicator starting flicker and then eventually 
>> failed.  I noticed that when sunlight hit the NE-2s, they lit more solidly: 
>> flickering converted to solid, and off converted to flickering.  I always 
>> assumed it was the energy from the sun's photons that was adding just 
>> enough joules to the equation to push failing bulbs back over their 
>> ionization threshold.  Same effect, probably? 
>>
>>
>> which is the reason behind some neon stuff having a small amount of 
>> radioactivity added.  helps kick off the Ionization. 
>>
>> -- 
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[neonixie-l] Re: Glowing Wires

[Paul Andrews]

And for some tubes, that’s all that lights up lol. I wasn’t aware this 
could be fixed. Thanks Benoit and Dalibor. I might try this.

On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 11:53:18 AM UTC-4 Greg P wrote:

> Benoit and Dalibor,
>
> Thank you for your responses.  I will try your suggestions.
>
> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 5:41:12 AM UTC-4 Dalibor wrote:
>
>> Exactly as Benoit said - just decrease the current through the digit so 
>> the glow disappears. Keep it running for days in that configuration, and 
>> make sure the glow on the lead doesn't come back. The sputtered metal from 
>> the digit traps impurities from the gas and make a thin layer on the lead, 
>> protecting it from glowing at rated current.
>> It really takes time :-)
>>
>> On Friday, 6 October 2023 at 16:59:49 UTC+2 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>
>>> you can try to add a resistor on this cathode, this will reduce the 
>>> current, reduce the glow; if the unwanted glowing point disappears, the 
>>> internal oxydation will re-coat the lead. this will take time, but this is 
>>> the only way to isolate the lead without opening the tube...
>>>
>>> Le vendredi 6 octobre 2023 à 15:05:17 UTC+2, Greg P a écrit :
>>>
 I have a clock that has some glowing lead wires from the glass seal to 
 where it connects to the individual cathodes.  This doesn’t happen on 
 every 
 cathode in the tube. 

 I know this can happen if too much current is applied but these tubes 
 are running at the rated current or below when using PWM for dimming.

 So my question is; does anyone have an tricks to resolve this without 
 just changing out the tube?  Trying to avoid changing as these tubes 
 (Z570M) are hardwired to the PCB.

 Appreciate any help on this topic.




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Re: [neonixie-l] An odd, but interesting observation of a weak B7971 tube

[Paul Andrews]

I’ve had some of these tubes that require a higher than normal voltage to 
even trigger. Most people drive nixies at 170V, but this can be a marginal 
trigger voltage for some tubes and completely insufficient for others such 
as the GR10G https://www.nixies.us/bwg_gallery/gr10g/

Shining light on a tube ionizes the gas inside, the brighter the light, the 
more ions. Tubes used in dark environments can take longer to light up. 
Once they are lit, the number of free ions in the gas is usually enough to 
keep it going. Several approaches were used to circumvent this. Some tubes 
have an extra cathode driven with a very low current that is always on. 
Some tubes were doped with Krypton 85, a radioactive gas, 
e.g. https://www.nixies.us/bwg_gallery/122p224/
On Sunday, October 8, 2023 at 12:13:47 PM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:

> Can you do some bench-testing to see if the segments fully light with a 
> bit more voltage ?
> I collected current-voltage (I-V) data on all my 7971's so I can check 
> them for aging effects.
>
> On Sunday, October 8, 2023 at 6:01:55 AM UTC-7 guus.a...@wolmail.nl wrote:
>
>> Hello Jim, 
>>   
>> If you have a source of UV-light, that will do a good job. 
>> Maybe an UV-Led beneath the tube will do the trick 
>>   
>> BR/ 
>> Guus 
>>
>> Op 07-10-2023 19:26 CEST schreef Jim KO5V : 
>>
>>   
>>   
>> I have a B7971 that doesn't want to light up - the ends of some segments 
>> will glow,  but none will illuminate along their entire length. I have had 
>> tubes in the past that were probably a bit gassy, and they cleaned up after 
>> running for a few minutes to a few hours. 
>>   
>> So, I put it into the "10 second" position of my Mod 6 clock, and ran it 
>> over night with no improvement. However after I had been up an hour or so, 
>> I noticed that the tube's segments were lighting up along about 3/4 of 
>> their lengths, and also that the low morning sun was shining on the clock. 
>> This state lasted for as long as the sunlight was on the tube - sometime 
>> after light moved off of the clock, the tube went back to it's wounded 
>> state.  
>>   
>> This morning I watched as the sunlight moved toward the clock, and as 
>> soon as the light hit the clock, the tube immediately recovered, and 
>> performed like it did yesterday. However, that state lasted for about 3-1/2 
>> hours after the sunlight moved away. I then shined a flashlight on the 
>> tube, and it recovered as long as the light was there.  
>>   
>> I guess this is some kind of photo-voltaic effect. I have a bit of 
>> education in basic physics (for engineering), and this baffles me - but 
>> it's cool! 
>>   
>> I have a reading lamp that puts out a full spectrum, so I will put that 
>> on the clock today and see what happens. I may also set up a test to run 
>> the tube at a bit higher voltage (180-ish V). It may never recover 
>> completely, but I think this is a fun exercise. 
>>   
>> Anyway, and ideas are welcome. I may not be able to save the tube, but I 
>> might actually learn something.  Thanks.  Jim 
>>
>>  
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> .
>>  
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] New nixie tube project lanched on kickstarter

[Paul Andrews]

Well its interesting. The IN-18 has two pins that are connected to the 
'giver pill', pins 1 and 8. Perhaps you could use those two pins for 
decimal points? I don't have an IN-18 to hand right now, but I assume the 
pins are shorted together, so no existing clock would have those wired to 
anything? I know that the PV electronics clocks (as an example) don't have 
them wired to anything.

On Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 11:50:59 PM UTC-4 dudu sa wrote:

>
> The reason the pins are not compatible with the IN18 is that the IN18 has 
> too few pins to prevent left and right decimal points. So I added two extra 
> spare pins for connecting the decimal points, and even though they didn't 
> make it in, I left them in anyway
> 在2023年9月21日星期四 UTC+8 09:37:50 写道：
>
>> These tubes look gorgeous and have some good thought behind it.  I love 
>> that it is a true pinned tube with a round dome.  
>>
>> What ruins it for my purpose is that the pinout is proprietary and 
>> probably done so he can sell expensive clocks.  I have multiple IN-18 based 
>> clocks that I was going to just drop tubes into to replace the IN-18s to 
>> see how they looked and held up. 
>>
>> For people that want to build more from scratch, it won't be a big issue. 
>>
>> Jeff 
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: John Snow  
>> Date: 9/20/23 8:30 PM (GMT-06:00) 
>> To: neonixie-l  
>> Subject: [neonixie-l] New nixie tube project lanched on kickstarter 
>>
>> Hello guys,
>> There is a new nixie tube "DMG01" and the clock using this tube , project 
>> lanched on Kickstarter now: （ not my list )
>>
>> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/inixie/glowing-with-nostalgia-the-resurgence-of-nixie-tubes/description
>>
>> The tube is similar with IN18 in size but with more beautiful outlook 
>> and visual effects.
>>
>> Its interesting seems they take great effort to achieve this ! 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: connector for Nixie tube with flexible pins

[Paul Andrews]

If the leads are short you can push them in. When I test tubes (so the 
leads are un-trimmed) I get them roughly seated by hand and then use needle 
nosed pliers to ensure a firm fit. I would recommend you buy a few to try 
them and you'll see what I mean.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 12:58:46 PM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:

> Paul - How much insertion force is required for the MillMax pins ? Do you 
> have to use needle-nose pliers on each lead, or can you plug-in the tube ?
> What about removal ?
>
> I have a future VFD project with Soviet-era tubes that have leads, and 
> havn't decided on solder vs socket.
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 9:05:21 AM UTC-7 Paul Andrews wrote:
>
>> For tubes with leads rather than pins I use  Mill-Max 
>> 0665-0-15-15-30-27-10-0 https://www.digikey.com/short/pd7709hz
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:36:08 AM UTC-4 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I am searching for female pins where I could insert the flexible pins of 
>>> a nixie tube such as a IN-14 or a IN-8-1 without soldier them.
>>> of course, this should working also with VFD tubes.
>>>
>>> the idea should for testing tubes, for prototyping or non permanent 
>>> purpose...
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Benoit.
>>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: connector for Nixie tube with flexible pins

[Paul Andrews]

For tubes with leads rather than pins I use  Mill-Max 
0665-0-15-15-30-27-10-0 https://www.digikey.com/short/pd7709hz

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:36:08 AM UTC-4 Benoit Tourret wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am searching for female pins where I could insert the flexible pins of a 
> nixie tube such as a IN-14 or a IN-8-1 without soldier them.
> of course, this should working also with VFD tubes.
>
> the idea should for testing tubes, for prototyping or non permanent 
> purpose...
>
> Regards,
> Benoit.
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Diving VFD such as IV-22 etc DC Vs AC Filament drive

[Paul Andrews]

Assuming you drive the filaments in parallel rather than in series, a DC 
voltage would be fine. If you drive them in series then (I assume) the 
voltage gradient might be visible. A decision to drive in parallel has a 
knock-on effect - I couldn't come up with an AC drive that had a constant 
voltage with varying load. With filaments in parallel, the load will change 
if one or more filaments burn out. You don't want a filament burn out to 
increase the voltage across the remaining tubes, otherwise they might burn 
out too - so a regulated DC voltage is easiest. With a non-regulated AC 
supply, you will also get a higher voltage at startup when the filament is 
cold. Another reason to go with a regulated DC supply. Which brings me to 
the potential issue of in-rush current. Either a constant current setup or 
a current-limiting resistor in series with the filament would be a good 
idea. The latter also helps with achieving a voltage offset to the grid - 
i.e. making the grid negative with respect to the filament.

On Friday, June 16, 2023 at 1:45:02 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote:

> Greetings all,
>
> I am starting to look at VFD displays and am reading all I can about them.
>
> I am trying to get a better understanding of the pros and cons of using a 
> AC filament drive rather than an DC one.
>
> I am aware that on larger displays (like those monster ones from Russia) 
> it is necessary in order to create a more even glow across segments. I 
> wonder however how important this is for smaller segments like those in 
> IV-22 for example.
>
> Making the filament drive AC adds a small degree of complexity but if the 
> difference is visible and beneficial then I'd like to go that way.
>
> My project would be direct drive, no multiplexing required.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> - Richard
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Date codes on ETL GR10x tubes...

[Paul Andrews]

Heh. Live and learn!

On Wednesday, May 31, 2023 at 7:36:22 AM UTC-4 Jon wrote:

> Ah, that's the *other* ETL! Electronic Tubes Ltd of High Wycombe as 
> opposed to Ericsson Telephones Ltd of Beeston. It's the Ericsson ETL which 
> makes the nixies, dekatrons etc.
>
> Thanks Martin!
>
> Jon.
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 31, 2023 at 12:25:52 PM UTC+1 Dekatron42 wrote:
>
>> It does look like Paul got his information from here: 
>> https://www.radiomuseum.org/dsp_hersteller_detail.cfm?company_id=9901
>>
>> /Martin
>>
>> On Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 11:06:10 UTC+2 Jon wrote:
>>
>>> Paul, would you mind sharing the basis for your comment about the 
>>> post-1957 Mullard/ETL connection? I've done a lot of work on ETL history 
>>> (visited what's left of their archives, talked to employees etc) and this 
>>> is news to me.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Jon.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 8:21:34 PM UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:
>>>
>>>> After 1957 ETL was owned by Mullard. The date codes for Mullard 
>>>> (Philips) tubes are described here 
>>>> <http://www.audiotubes.com/mullcode.htm>. It looks most likely that 
>>>> the first digit is the year number, the second letter is the month. The 
>>>> one 
>>>> I have is labelled 0B, which I would read as February 1960. Its a bit of a 
>>>> mess though.
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 1:15:02 PM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> >  but there is a set of 6 matched GR114/CD47s (will sell only as a 
>>>>> set) 
>>>>> > loads of NIMOs
>>>>>
>>>>> Well, that's going to be the auction of the century. 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 10:06:59 AM UTC-7 Nick wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for asking, but I really don't know yet. There's a HUGE number 
>>>>>> of tubes to go through (many 1000s). A few of the exotica have been sold 
>>>>>> to 
>>>>>> other collectors, but there is a set of 6 matched GR114/CD47s (will sell 
>>>>>> only as a set) amongst the stuff in the store, plus many other rare 
>>>>>> tubes.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'll start doing auctions in a few months and will provide early 
>>>>>> warning here. Some of the stuff is extremely rare, including F9020, 
>>>>>> NEO-5000M, NEO-8000, loads of NIMOs, Pandicons, Pixies, Panaplex, 
>>>>>> Alphanumeric tubes etc.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, 30 May 2023 at 17:55:20 UTC+1 Robert wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What would the cost be per tube, used or NIB?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>> Rob
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 30 May 2023, at 17:40, 'Nick' via neonixie-l <
>>>>>>> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So here's the thing: I'm rationalising my rather large nixie 
>>>>>>> collection over the next few months I don't need lots of every 
>>>>>>> nixie.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm starting with a stash of ETL GR10Gs in varying condition - one 
>>>>>>> has a broken 7 internally, 3 others are "dark" to the point of ... just 
>>>>>>> useable... another 10 are in "used but good to OK condition" and the 
>>>>>>> rest 
>>>>>>> are NIB.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> They're a strange, early, tube, needing a Va of 250VDC and an Ra of 
>>>>>>> only 10K for most digits, but 18K2 for the "1" and 14K7 for the "7", 
>>>>>>> i.e. 
>>>>>>> the 1 & 7 also have cathode resistors... They have no Hg doping, so the 
>>>>>>> life of the tube under controlled circumstances is only 5,000 hours... 
>>>>>>> Early stuff.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> But they are a BEAUTIFUL tube... I mean, REALLY BEAUTIFUL (IMHO)...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The date codes on them are just two characters, e.g. "OJ" or "RC" 
>>>>>>> etc. Range of ETL logos too...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Anyone have a decode table for these?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Nick
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>>>>>>> send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/39c22549-5fab-417d-8518-7888e39cb62en%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/39c22549-5fab-417d-8518-7888e39cb62en%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Date codes on ETL GR10x tubes...

[Paul Andrews]

After 1957 ETL was owned by Mullard. The date codes for Mullard (Philips) 
tubes are described here . It looks 
most likely that the first digit is the year number, the second letter is 
the month. The one I have is labelled 0B, which I would read as February 
1960. Its a bit of a mess though.

On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 1:15:02 PM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:

> >  but there is a set of 6 matched GR114/CD47s (will sell only as a set) 
> > loads of NIMOs
>
> Well, that's going to be the auction of the century. 
>
> On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 10:06:59 AM UTC-7 Nick wrote:
>
>> Thanks for asking, but I really don't know yet. There's a HUGE number of 
>> tubes to go through (many 1000s). A few of the exotica have been sold to 
>> other collectors, but there is a set of 6 matched GR114/CD47s (will sell 
>> only as a set) amongst the stuff in the store, plus many other rare tubes.
>>
>> I'll start doing auctions in a few months and will provide early warning 
>> here. Some of the stuff is extremely rare, including F9020, NEO-5000M, 
>> NEO-8000, loads of NIMOs, Pandicons, Pixies, Panaplex, Alphanumeric tubes 
>> etc.
>>
>> On Tuesday, 30 May 2023 at 17:55:20 UTC+1 Robert wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> What would the cost be per tube, used or NIB?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Rob
>>>
>>> On 30 May 2023, at 17:40, 'Nick' via neonixie-l <
>>> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> So here's the thing: I'm rationalising my rather large nixie collection 
>>> over the next few months I don't need lots of every nixie.
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm starting with a stash of ETL GR10Gs in varying condition - one has a 
>>> broken 7 internally, 3 others are "dark" to the point of ... just 
>>> useable... another 10 are in "used but good to OK condition" and the rest 
>>> are NIB.
>>>
>>> They're a strange, early, tube, needing a Va of 250VDC and an Ra of only 
>>> 10K for most digits, but 18K2 for the "1" and 14K7 for the "7", i.e. the 1 
>>> & 7 also have cathode resistors... They have no Hg doping, so the life of 
>>> the tube under controlled circumstances is only 5,000 hours... Early stuff.
>>>
>>> But they are a BEAUTIFUL tube... I mean, REALLY BEAUTIFUL (IMHO)...
>>>
>>> The date codes on them are just two characters, e.g. "OJ" or "RC" etc. 
>>> Range of ETL logos too...
>>>
>>> Anyone have a decode table for these?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
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>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/39c22549-5fab-417d-8518-7888e39cb62en%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Anyone seen these in real life?

[Paul Andrews]

The artifacts from the web site date from Jan 2021, so it is almost 2.5 
years old.

On Monday, May 22, 2023 at 2:28:55 PM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:

> They also chose to make an actual pin-base like a traditional vacuum tube; 
> not a trivial accomplishment. Time will tell if they have something that is 
> manufacturable and reliable.
>
>
>
> On Monday, May 22, 2023 at 10:48:15 AM UTC-7 MichaelB wrote:
>
>> No, but it's a nice looking tube!
>>
>> On Monday, May 22, 2023 at 9:44:03 AM UTC-7 Nicholas Stock wrote:
>>
>>> https://kepler-labs.com/
>>>
>>> Did these ever make it into production?
>>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: does anyone know the trick to pre tin the leads on mtx-90 tubes

[Paul Andrews]

Interesting. Maybe time to break the flux out? Works for me on old radios.On Apr 29, 2023, at 12:37 PM, Batareyka  wrote:mth-90 used solder with a high lead content. Therefore, for a long time of non-use, the balls on the legs of the solder oxidize and form a rather large film of oxide that prevents the metal itself from melting.To do this, you need to remove the plaque to a shiny with anything, a file or a knife.And after that, everything is soldered quite easily.суббота, 29 апреля 2023 г. в 19:31:58 UTC+3, Jasper nagle:  Maybe I have another go at the blobs tomorrow on a few different tubes I’ll see if age makes a difference On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 at 12:23 am, Yohan Park <w...@kitsunegari.net> wrote:Just tried with my iron set to the highest temperature (480C/896F), added lead based solder to try to make it going but nothing happened.So either you're soldering at insanely high temperatures or they've used different materials over the years... :)On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 2:01:11 PM UTC+2 Jasper nagle wrote:I was able to melt the blobs on the mtx-90 with a soldering iron so it must be something like tin or lead On Sat, 29 Apr 2023 at 7:56 pm, Yohan Park <w...@kitsunegari.net> wrote:
No that's not true. It's not solder but a different metal (can't recall 
what it is) to make it easy to solder. You won't be able to melt the 
blobs with your soldering iron though.On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 1:10:31 PM UTC+1 Paul Andrews wrote:I had read that the little balls on the ends of the leads are solder. Is that not true?On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 7:17:05 AM UTC-4 Jasper nagle wrote:thanks for thatOn Fri, Mar 24, 2023 at 7:01 PM Batareyka <batar...@gmail.com> wrote:H3PO4orH3PO4 + HCl (10:1)пятница, 24 марта 2023 г. в 12:33:31 UTC+2, Jasper nagle: tubes im having no luck putting tin to them i even managed to tin the painted surface i was working on in the process 



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Re: [neonixie-l] Need advice on a new scope...

[Paul Andrews]

The shipping seems a bit expensive 8-)

On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 11:29:33 AM UTC-4 Kevin A. wrote:

> https://www.ebay.com/itm/256029480775
>
> On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 11:44 PM martin martin  wrote:
>
>> My Tek 2236 is nearly 30 moons old and no longer stays on for more than a 
>> few minutes.  I am sure it's fixable, but on the other hand maybe time for 
>> a new digital!
>>
>> What do you guys suggest for general use and of course clock fixing?
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> "neonixie-l" group.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/c712398f-d2c6-4bf2-a344-e579c55e9d3en%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Does anyone have the accurate angles and dimensions of the IN-18 pinout?

[Paul Andrews]

I have accurate footprints 
at https://github.com/judge2005/Eagle-and-KiCAD-Nixie-Libs

On Friday, March 31, 2023 at 5:11:57 AM UTC-4 nnylfsw wrote:

> I see there is a solid CAD model at Grabcad.com.  Just go to the library 
> and search.   There are several useful Nixie items located there.   I can't 
> attest to the accuracy,  but should be easy to verify with the model.  Hope 
> that helps. 
>
>  Original message 
> From: Zachary  
> Date: 3/29/23 19:06 (GMT-08:00) 
> To: neonixie-l  
> Subject: [neonixie-l] Does anyone have the accurate angles and dimensions 
> of the IN-18 pinout? 
>
> I'm trying to model a socket in Fusion 360 but a lot of what I find online 
> is contradictory. Any help would be greatly appreciated 
>
> -- 
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/c3266981-1bd9-4cf4-8685-cd25432f4944n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Identify clock and help with remote…

[Paul Andrews]

Doesn't your friend have a record of where he bought it? Also, 
try https://www.facebook.com/groups/nixieclockfanpage - members there seem 
to be pretty good at identifying obscure nixie boards.

On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 2:51:51 PM UTC-4 Lance Barton wrote:

> I got my first nixie clock from a friend who built it from a kit about 2 
> years ago. I attached an image of the board, I can’t seem to find one like 
> it anywhere online.
>
> Thing is, I think it needs a remote that I don’t have to control it. Is 
> there a way to find one or program one? Appreciate the help gang!
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: does anyone know the trick to pre tin the leads on mtx-90 tubes

[Paul Andrews]

I had read that the little balls on the ends of the leads are solder. Is 
that not true?

On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 7:17:05 AM UTC-4 Jasper nagle wrote:

> thanks for that
>
> On Fri, Mar 24, 2023 at 7:01 PM Batareyka  wrote:
>
>> H3PO4
>> or
>> H3PO4 + HCl (10:1)
>>
>> пятница, 24 марта 2023 г. в 12:33:31 UTC+2, Jasper nagle: 
>>
>>> tubes im having no luck putting tin to them i even managed to tin the 
>>> painted surface i was working on in the process 
>>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] ScopeClock with teensy4.0

[Paul Andrews]

Do you plan on publishing the software (on GitHub for example)?On Mar 8, 2023, at 5:36 PM, jörg  wrote:The tube is a RFT B7 S4-01It‘s from an EO174A Oscilloscope.Nice green and pretty good to focus and linearity to the edges.The tube and first version of PCB could be viewed at https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zTyXJE2faXwI do not plan a kit or selling like david forbes do. First of all, it is initially his design and software. Second, I do not have the will and time to go through all the regulations EU/Germany has for selling such electronics.I could share the PCB if I order the next  batch, but it is not finished, yet.I plan to add ESP32 for NTP and web config.On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 8:02:28 PM UTC+1 Nicholas Stock wrote:Definitely not off-topic! I think everyone on this forum appreciates that post, well done. I really like the starfield effect. What tube were you using? Looks like it has very good linearity across the whole screenCheers,NickOn Sat, Mar 4, 2023 at 11:55 PM Wo Tu  wrote:Hi !Really interesting and great work. Looks really good and its a „want to have“.Would be interested in pcb and code too , if possible a kit too.Thank you.Michail Wilson schrieb am Samstag, 4. März 2023 um 15:11:01 UTC+1:







I am very interested as well.
 
Would love to have the code and pcb design and even a kit.
 
I read through the posts, but didn’t see anything other than the video.   Thumbs up on it too.  
😊
 
Michail Wilson
206-920-6312
 

From: neoni...@googlegroups.com 
On Behalf Of jörg
Sent: Saturday, March 4, 2023 7:14 AM
To: neonixie-l 
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] ScopeClock with teensy4.0

 
@Jon,
yes, I will share the code. I have moved it to the VS Code IDE with PlatformIO. I do not like the Arduino IDE much. It should run on david's hardware, too.
Do yo you have build the hardware already?


On Friday, March 3, 2023 at 5:12:46 AM UTC+1 David Forbes wrote:



I was able to change to a Teensy 4.1 with a 2 channel 12 bit SPI DAC in my latest version. I had to reduce the DAC rate by half. It looks just as good as the old version. Of course, the DAC I chise is already unobtanium.

 

 



 


On Thu, Mar 2, 2023, 7:17 AM jörg  wrote:




Hi, maybe a bit offtopic.

I've put some effort in using the teensy4.x to run the scope clock based on david forbes one.
The teensy3.6 based one is running on my own hardware for a while.

But because of CPU shortage and the use of the teensy3.6 internal DAC's, I was curious to get the stuff up and running on the faster teensy 4.x CPU.
In this approach I'm using a parallel driven 12 bit 4 channels DAC. The usage of a serial DAC was too slow and I did not get DMA up and running on teensy4.x.
Anyway, this works and I like it.

Video: https://youtu.be/HYwgyYnQUxw







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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Rodan CD27 clock

[Paul Andrews]

No problems with stability. I dim them like I dim the CD27 and fade them in and out and there is no flicker. I think the grid anode really helps.On Mar 5, 2023, at 11:33 AM, MichaelB  wrote:Very Nice Paul, how stable are those little TNI-1.5D tubes?On Friday, February 10, 2023 at 4:59:48 PM UTC-8 Paul Andrews wrote:I’ve been slowly making clocks for my stock of Nixie tubes. Thought you guys might be interested in a quick write up I posted for a clock I made using CD27 tubes https://www.nixies.us/clocks/rodan-cd27-nixie-clock/



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[neonixie-l] Re: ScopeClock with teensy4.0

[Paul Andrews]

That looks great

On Thursday, March 2, 2023 at 9:17:42 AM UTC-5 jörg wrote:

> Hi, maybe a bit offtopic.
>
> I've put some effort in using the teensy4.x to run the scope clock based 
> on david forbes one.
> The teensy3.6 based one is running on my own hardware for a while.
>
> But because of CPU shortage and the use of the teensy3.6 internal DAC's, I 
> was curious to get the stuff up and running on the faster teensy 4.x CPU.
> In this approach I'm using a parallel driven 12 bit 4 channels DAC. The 
> usage of a serial DAC was too slow and I did not get DMA up and running on 
> teensy4.x.
> Anyway, this works and I like it.
>
> Video: https://youtu.be/HYwgyYnQUxw
>
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Rodan CD27 clock

[Paul Andrews]

I’ve been slowly making clocks for my stock of Nixie tubes. Thought you 
guys might be interested in a quick write up I posted for a clock I made 
using CD27 tubes https://www.nixies.us/clocks/rodan-cd27-nixie-clock/

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Re: [neonixie-l] Are here any good small alarm clocks for use on night table?

[Paul Andrews]

Another option is the retio at https://retio.co
On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 10:25:56 PM UTC-5 Terry S wrote:

> I'd like to know more about it Pete.
> Terry
>
> On Saturday, February 4, 2023 at 10:55:18 PM UTC-6 petehand wrote:
>
>> I designed one about ten years ago. I made a few and offered them on 
>> Ebay, but nobody was interested. The prototype has been waking me reliably 
>> in the morning for ten years. It has IN17s, 12 or 24 hour mode, two 
>> completely independent alarms, snooze adjustable 1 to 9 minutes, a tilt 
>> switch for snooze (reach out blindly and slap it) and a supercap to keep 
>> time for a nominal 24 hours if it gets unplugged. It uses a 12V wall wart 
>> for power. I believe I still have one left, tucked in a drawer somewhere, 
>> and a few partly assembled boards and parts. 
>>
>> [image: IN17 alarm front.jpg]
>>
>> [image: IN17 alarm open.jpg]
>>
>> I'm old and tired now and I'm never going to pick this project up again. 
>> Does anybody feel like taking it over? It's a shame to let it die.
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: My in-14 tube died strangely.....

[Paul Andrews]

Why?

On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 5:44:42 PM UTC-5 Terry S wrote:

> I seriously doubt nail polish will prevent gas leaks at the pins. 
>
> On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 8:39:40 AM UTC-6 Paul Andrews wrote:
>
>> I've had one IN-18 (out of 6) outgas like this, and I've seen multiple 
>> reports of the same. Now I apply clear nail varnish to the joint between 
>> the glass and the pin. I'm sure it depends how you socket them.
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 5:07:00 PM UTC-5 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> It's always sad when a nixie tube dies.  How long was it running ?
>>>
>>> The only Soviet-era nixies I'm using are IN-18, and they are 
>>> exceptionally good tubes. Consider those for a future project. I have not 
>>> had any fail yet; my 14-tube clock has been running since 2015.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 10, 2023 at 10:02:06 AM UTC-8 overdoingism Lab. 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Sad... so I need to replace it.
>>>>
>>>> But luckily, I used the original plastic sleeves to make the sockets. 
>>>> (use DIP IC socket pin)
>>>>
>>>> I just need to replace the tube. ;-) 
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for everyone's explanation.
>>>>
>>>> overdoingism Lab. 在 2023年1月10日 星期二晚上7:10:23 [UTC+8] 的信中寫道：
>>>>
>>>>> Hello, 
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a failure nixie tube on my clock,
>>>>> But its failure seems a bit peculiar...
>>>>>
>>>>> It's CCCP IN-14, no over current or voltage.
>>>>> [image: nt01.jpg]
>>>>> You can see, even the anode grid have some discoloration. 
>>>>> It's not normal in cathode poisoning, right?
>>>>>
>>>>> And it's working video:
>>>>> https://youtu.be/vGzF316FRBw
>>>>> Color is leaning toward purple. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Who can tell me, what happened to it , and is there any way to save it?
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: My in-14 tube died strangely.....

[Paul Andrews]

I've had one IN-18 (out of 6) outgas like this, and I've seen multiple 
reports of the same. Now I apply clear nail varnish to the joint between 
the glass and the pin. I'm sure it depends how you socket them.

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 5:07:00 PM UTC-5 gregebert wrote:

> It's always sad when a nixie tube dies.  How long was it running ?
>
> The only Soviet-era nixies I'm using are IN-18, and they are exceptionally 
> good tubes. Consider those for a future project. I have not had any fail 
> yet; my 14-tube clock has been running since 2015.
>
> On Tuesday, January 10, 2023 at 10:02:06 AM UTC-8 overdoingism Lab. wrote:
>
>> Sad... so I need to replace it.
>>
>> But luckily, I used the original plastic sleeves to make the sockets. 
>> (use DIP IC socket pin)
>>
>> I just need to replace the tube. ;-) 
>>
>> Thanks for everyone's explanation.
>>
>> overdoingism Lab. 在 2023年1月10日 星期二晚上7:10:23 [UTC+8] 的信中寫道：
>>
>>> Hello, 
>>>
>>> I have a failure nixie tube on my clock,
>>> But its failure seems a bit peculiar...
>>>
>>> It's CCCP IN-14, no over current or voltage.
>>> [image: nt01.jpg]
>>> You can see, even the anode grid have some discoloration. 
>>> It's not normal in cathode poisoning, right?
>>>
>>> And it's working video:
>>> https://youtu.be/vGzF316FRBw
>>> Color is leaning toward purple. 
>>>
>>> Who can tell me, what happened to it , and is there any way to save it?
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] OT: Inspecting phosphor-containing devices with UV light

[Paul Andrews]

And apparently IR erases the 
glow: https://hackaday.io/project/169462-uv-glow-in-the-dark-plot-clock

On Monday, January 9, 2023 at 11:04:44 AM UTC-5 Paul Andrews wrote:

> I remember this project from a few years back. Always meant to give it a 
> go, never did: 
> https://hackaday.io/project/170360-glixie-a-glow-in-the-dark-nixie
>
> On Saturday, January 7, 2023 at 12:26:32 PM UTC-5 Terry Bowman wrote:
>
>>
>> On Jan 7, 2023, at 11:50 AM, Ryan B  wrote:
>>
>> I bought two different wavelength UV lights recently. IIRC 395 and 360 
>> nm. I haven't used them much but I will check out all my CRTs now! I got 
>> them to look for UV reactive glass at thrift shops and on the beach.
>>
>>
>> I have a CRT with dual phosphors, a fast blue and a slow yellow. It 
>> lights up like a Christmas tree when exposed to an 18" BL-B tube. 
>>
>> You can draw pictures on an old television or computer monitor.
>>
>>
>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>
>> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>>
>> “...the book said something astonishing, a very big thought. The stars, 
>> it said, were suns but very far away. The Sun was a star but close 
>> up.”—Carl Sagan, "The Backbone Of Night", *Cosmos*, 1980
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] OT: Inspecting phosphor-containing devices with UV light

[Paul Andrews]

I remember this project from a few years back. Always meant to give it a 
go, never 
did: https://hackaday.io/project/170360-glixie-a-glow-in-the-dark-nixie

On Saturday, January 7, 2023 at 12:26:32 PM UTC-5 Terry Bowman wrote:

>
> On Jan 7, 2023, at 11:50 AM, Ryan B  wrote:
>
> I bought two different wavelength UV lights recently. IIRC 395 and 360 nm. 
> I haven't used them much but I will check out all my CRTs now! I got them 
> to look for UV reactive glass at thrift shops and on the beach.
>
>
> I have a CRT with dual phosphors, a fast blue and a slow yellow. It lights 
> up like a Christmas tree when exposed to an 18" BL-B tube. 
>
> You can draw pictures on an old television or computer monitor.
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> “...the book said something astonishing, a very big thought. The stars, it 
> said, were suns but very far away. The Sun was a star but close up.”—Carl 
> Sagan, "The Backbone Of Night", *Cosmos*, 1980
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Welcome & please introduce yourself!

[Paul Andrews]

Google ‘glasslinger nixie tube’

On Friday, December 23, 2022 at 10:48:39 PM UTC-5 milesan...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Good day, everyone.
>
> I'm just getting into the subject of Nixie tube making. I have gotten to 
> work with some new old stock nixies and some de-soldered miniature digit 
> tubes and now I'm curious about the process of manufacturing my own. I 
> found the Dalibor Farni channel 
> to be extremely 
> fascinating, and the video by jdflyback 
>  where he has actually made a 3 digit 
> cathode ray tube  with 
> perhaps less tools which you and I might have got me thinking of dipping my 
> toes into trying to make one myself as well.
>
> This is also something I wanted to do in order to provide a fallback for 
> nixie tubes availability for this project. A post apocalyptic handheld text 
> based adventure game. I wanted to make sure I don't depend on the 
> increasingly expensive and fleeting stock of overseas shipped tubes. 
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjTn9dDLRig
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: DS3231 shortage

[Paul Andrews]

Thanks everyone

On Friday, December 2, 2022 at 2:53:28 AM UTC-5 mikeselectricstuff wrote:

> On Wed, 30 Nov 2022 13:59:46 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >I can vouch for LCSC too...never had an issue with them and their prices
> >are (usually) very good.
>
> I've been using LCSC a lot in recent years, mostly for parts that are 
> unavailable elsewhere like
> RS485 drivers, MOSFETs, LDO regulators and knock-off JST connector., 
> The only issue I've ever had were some 74HC595s that had some missing 
> features - this was actually
> shown in the datasheet, but I didn't think to look at the datasheet of a 
> 74HC part!
>

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[neonixie-l] DS3231 shortage

[Paul Andrews]

Hot on the heels of my last post about an HV5523 shortage I've now 
discovered that the one remaining chip I either don't have or can't find 
anywhere, is the DS3231. I feel bad asking, but does anyone have a DS3231 
in the SOIC-8 package they wouldn't mind selling?

This one isn't such a big issue - the clock will work fine without it, it 
is just a backup and I can add it to the board later.

BTW I've heard horror stories of these chips sourced from Chinese 
suppliers, so I'm not going to do that.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: hey can someone help me find one of these zener diodes

[Paul Andrews]

You're the first person to mention that. The BOM at the bottom of the page here 
lists the actual part number, this 
is it at DigiKey 

 
- it is a 500mW part.

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 3:53:04 PM UTC-5 jaspern...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> thanks i wasn't to sure i thought it was probable a mistake in the papers 
> but just checking to see if anyone knew something i didn't it is in parts 
> so thanks for confirming my suspicions 
>
>  https://www.nixies.us/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/instructions.pdf
>
> On Tue, Nov 29, 2022 at 9:46 PM newxito  wrote:
>
>> Are you sure about the 3.2A? Maybe 3.2mA test current like the 1N5259B?
>>
>> jaspern...@gmail.com schrieb am Dienstag, 29. November 2022 um 21:12:09 
>> UTC+1:
>>
>>> DIODE ZENER 3.2A 39V DO35 
>>>
>>> thanks jasper 
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: HV5523 shortage

[Paul Andrews]

I have managed to source something I can use, thanks to this group.

On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 2:48:45 PM UTC-5 David Pye wrote:

> My next design (if I get round to it) Is going to be using a st 
> microcontrollers clone (made by gigadevices - gd32e230c8t6) and discrete HV 
> transistors for Nixie driving.
>
> Cheap and available from JLCPCB as pre fab designs.  Can talk to it via 
> spi as well so drive similar to the HV chips if needed.
>
> David
>
> On Wed, 23 Nov 2022, 19:37 Moses,  wrote:
>
>> I assume you need that particular package.. yea, I don't see any stock 
>> anywhere.
>>
>> When I designed my last clock I went with the HV5222, mainly because 
>> there was another part.. the HV5122 that was pin compatible (although 
>> reversed output, but easily corrected in software). I've been trying to 
>> think ahead and picking vanilla parts as much as possible lately.
>>
>> GPU sales appear to be tanking, so we may actually have some excess fab 
>> capacity soon.
>>
>> Regards,
>> -Moses
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 7:16:47 AM UTC-8 Paul Andrews wrote:
>>
>>> I feel like there are going to be quite a few of these types of messages 
>>> for a while. I can't get hold of HV5523 chips, does anyone have one or know 
>>> of anyone that has them in stock?
>>>
>>> I know about the ones on ali express - with shipping works out at about 
>>> $50 each. I'm not that desperate - yet.
>>>
>> -- 
>>
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/46d9f992-6062-4bf7-910f-4af7b9a40ed7n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] HV5523 shortage

[Paul Andrews]

Yes. If I have to, I can desolder a couple from some other PCBs I don't use 
much.

On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 11:30:59 AM UTC-5 nickja...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Yeah, I fear I may come to regret scrapping or even trashing so many old 
> circuit boards in the past, and not just for the lost potential gold 
> recovery either!
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2022 at 9:16 AM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>
>> I feel like there are going to be quite a few of these types of messages 
>> for a while. I can't get hold of HV5523 chips, does anyone have one or know 
>> of anyone that has them in stock?
>>
>> I know about the ones on ali express - with shipping works out at about 
>> $50 each. I'm not that desperate - yet.
>>
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/ae6377c2-8949-4dfc-8991-2d83c8ad8fe9n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] HV5523 shortage

[Paul Andrews]

I feel like there are going to be quite a few of these types of messages 
for a while. I can't get hold of HV5523 chips, does anyone have one or know 
of anyone that has them in stock?

I know about the ones on ali express - with shipping works out at about $50 
each. I'm not that desperate - yet.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Designing Nixie Clock with ZM1082T drived by HV528 and using ESP8266 as MCU

[Paul Andrews]

Basically - schematic would be useful

On Friday, November 4, 2022 at 9:34:42 AM UTC-4 Paul Andrews wrote:

> You didn't say how you had the other pins connected. So:
>
>- VPP should be around 60V. A cathode will be off when its voltage is 
>pushed to VPP.
>- GND, VBIAS and HVGND should all be at 0V. A cathode will be on when 
>its voltage is pulled to this.
>- All the chips, apart from the first one, should have DOUT connected 
>to DIN of the next chip.
>- Use the SPI library to shift data in to the chips, then pull LE low, 
>then push it high.
>- With POL high, a 1 in the data will be a high on the corresponding 
>HV output, which would turn the cathode off. Reverse if POL is low.
>- There are four possible combinations of the setup arguments to SPI - 
>they affect the relative timing and polarity of the toggles to CLK and 
> DIN. 
>You will also need to set the speed at which the data is shifted out if 
>memory serves me right.
>
> Write some code that shifts a specific pattern of data to the tubes - you 
> will want to only turn on one cathode on each tube, so if POL is low, you 
> will want to set one bit for each tube. If you don't see what you expect, 
> mess around with the SPI parameters, POL and the bits you set until you get 
> what you are expecting.
>
> On Thursday, November 3, 2022 at 5:45:03 PM UTC-4 scipa...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi, as my final Masters Degree thesis in Microelectronics I decided to 
>> create portable/small form-factor nixie tube clock using ZM1082T. Whole 
>> project is circled around modern connectivity, so I am using USB type-c for 
>> programing and powering plus Wi-Fi connectivity and all that. So simply 
>> put, I designed my own PCB, which is thing I do and it's fine, but besides 
>> some pinout and footprint miss-steps, everything about that is fine, all my 
>> features (temp, buzzer, RGB Neopixel backlight, Wi-Fi, USB-C powering and 
>> programing, protections, RTC) are working flawlessly. My problem is, I am 
>> not a programmer, and all the features mentioned above were tested using 
>> example libraries and that's fine for having something from which I can 
>> kick-off and create final whole code, but with HV528 it's different story. 
>> In this whole Group there is not much about using push-pull configuration 
>> HV chips from microchip (which, believe me, if I could, I wouldn't have 
>> chosen this chip, but chip shortage, availability, money, my country 
>> shipping, etc. that's why and this is what I got). With poor datasheet 
>> details from microchip, POL and BP pins are for me quite a mystery and when 
>> creating schematic and PCB I left BP open and POL with LE, CLK, DIN were 
>> connected to ESP (on SPI pins, POL and LE to GPIO). which should be fine 
>> based on my reasearch, but for the love of god, I can't seem to figure out 
>> to test it, and control it. Only thing I could manage was that all cathodes 
>> were glowing :D. But basically I am too lazy and time limited to create 
>> some code "now" to test it. I was hoping for some libraries and examples or 
>> some simple shift registers examples, which could be transferred to this, 
>> but no luck. 
>>
>> So if anyone, is interested in this "problem" and shows some interest, I 
>> am willing to show more, fotos, schematics, but for now, I don't want to 
>> post anything (our school algorithms would thing I copied from here and I 
>> would be flagged for plagiarism, stupid, I know, but no point in risking 
>> it...). So thanks everyone for any comment.
>> Looking forward to interesting conversations.
>>
>> PS: probably to catch your interest, here are some unrendered 3D models 
>> from Altium.
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Designing Nixie Clock with ZM1082T drived by HV528 and using ESP8266 as MCU

[Paul Andrews]

You didn't say how you had the other pins connected. So:

   - VPP should be around 60V. A cathode will be off when its voltage is 
   pushed to VPP.
   - GND, VBIAS and HVGND should all be at 0V. A cathode will be on when 
   its voltage is pulled to this.
   - All the chips, apart from the first one, should have DOUT connected to 
   DIN of the next chip.
   - Use the SPI library to shift data in to the chips, then pull LE low, 
   then push it high.
   - With POL high, a 1 in the data will be a high on the corresponding HV 
   output, which would turn the cathode off. Reverse if POL is low.
   - There are four possible combinations of the setup arguments to SPI - 
   they affect the relative timing and polarity of the toggles to CLK and DIN. 
   You will also need to set the speed at which the data is shifted out if 
   memory serves me right.

Write some code that shifts a specific pattern of data to the tubes - you 
will want to only turn on one cathode on each tube, so if POL is low, you 
will want to set one bit for each tube. If you don't see what you expect, 
mess around with the SPI parameters, POL and the bits you set until you get 
what you are expecting.

On Thursday, November 3, 2022 at 5:45:03 PM UTC-4 scipa...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi, as my final Masters Degree thesis in Microelectronics I decided to 
> create portable/small form-factor nixie tube clock using ZM1082T. Whole 
> project is circled around modern connectivity, so I am using USB type-c for 
> programing and powering plus Wi-Fi connectivity and all that. So simply 
> put, I designed my own PCB, which is thing I do and it's fine, but besides 
> some pinout and footprint miss-steps, everything about that is fine, all my 
> features (temp, buzzer, RGB Neopixel backlight, Wi-Fi, USB-C powering and 
> programing, protections, RTC) are working flawlessly. My problem is, I am 
> not a programmer, and all the features mentioned above were tested using 
> example libraries and that's fine for having something from which I can 
> kick-off and create final whole code, but with HV528 it's different story. 
> In this whole Group there is not much about using push-pull configuration 
> HV chips from microchip (which, believe me, if I could, I wouldn't have 
> chosen this chip, but chip shortage, availability, money, my country 
> shipping, etc. that's why and this is what I got). With poor datasheet 
> details from microchip, POL and BP pins are for me quite a mystery and when 
> creating schematic and PCB I left BP open and POL with LE, CLK, DIN were 
> connected to ESP (on SPI pins, POL and LE to GPIO). which should be fine 
> based on my reasearch, but for the love of god, I can't seem to figure out 
> to test it, and control it. Only thing I could manage was that all cathodes 
> were glowing :D. But basically I am too lazy and time limited to create 
> some code "now" to test it. I was hoping for some libraries and examples or 
> some simple shift registers examples, which could be transferred to this, 
> but no luck. 
>
> So if anyone, is interested in this "problem" and shows some interest, I 
> am willing to show more, fotos, schematics, but for now, I don't want to 
> post anything (our school algorithms would thing I copied from here and I 
> would be flagged for plagiarism, stupid, I know, but no point in risking 
> it...). So thanks everyone for any comment.
> Looking forward to interesting conversations.
>
> PS: probably to catch your interest, here are some unrendered 3D models 
> from Altium.
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 14-digit nixie calculator project with clock function

[Paul Andrews]

That looks wonderful

On Monday, October 3, 2022 at 3:58:58 AM UTC-4 newxito wrote:

> No worries, this is a strictly limited edition, this thing is serial 
> number 1 of 1 :-)
> I cheated a little bit; I just modified the original case and connected 
> the display part with a metal tube. 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Indian nixie manufacturer

[Paul Andrews]

A few years ago there were some Indian nixie tubes for sale on ebay. I 
assumed they were either made under license in India, or made overseas for 
an Indian company. I agree that these look like they have recently had that 
label applied though.

On Thursday, September 29, 2022 at 9:01:48 AM UTC-4 Bogdan Paduraru wrote:

> based on the photo , the tubes are made by JRC , 99% sure 
> I am getting some tubes from the seller and I am thinking that I will get 
> those too .
> I don't have any JRC made nixie in my collection, yet ,  therefore I 
> cannot provide accurate information 
>
> On Thursday, September 29, 2022 at 03:48:53 PM GMT+3, Audrey <
> tntm...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> It doesn't make sense to me that a 70s manufacturer wouldve used that gear 
> logo.
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 8:46 AM Audrey  wrote:
>
> I've never heard of this. It is my completely unfounded opinion that an 
> ebay seller stuck some stickers on b-5870s from the us or japan.
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 7:59 AM 'Bogdan Paduraru' via neonixie-l <
> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> Dears ,
>
> I have received below photo from someone 
> Does any one of you have any nixie tubes manufactured in India ? [image: 
> ek-2d75f3a18db241b88908cce2375dfad7-attachment-0-1664276628570.jpg]
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] VFD Filament Current

[Paul Andrews]

Arghh - I accidentally hit send on that last one. So anyway, if you don't 
plan to use the grid to turn the tube off, you can wire it to the segment 
positive voltage and ignore the need for a bias. You still might want to 
put the series resistor in though. The exact value you use is going to 
depend on the cold and hot resistance of the filament. Oh, also if it 
wasn't clear from my second point, the series resistor acts as a voltage 
divider, so you have to figure out what the total total voltage across that 
resistor and filament should be.

In my VFD clock I needed two different filament voltages, so I use a buck 
converter to get the larger of the two and used a series resistor to 
produce the lower. In retrospect it might have been better to use series 
resistors for both and have a higher regulated voltage - the resistances 
are all very small and it would help smooth over any variations in 
individual tubes and resistors.

So the easiest way to figure out these values is to measure the filament 
resistance when cold to get an initial value for the series resistor, then 
start experimenting and measuring.

On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 9:25:57 AM UTC-4 Paul Andrews wrote:

> I don't know the specs for these specific tubes, but a resistor in series 
> with the filament servers a couple of purposes:
>
>1. It reduces the inrush current (i.e. when the filaments are cold). 
>The resistance of the filaments is low when they are cold, so if you put 
>the steady-state voltage across them in that state, there will be a much 
>greater current. For this purpose the series resistor value should be high 
>enough to drop that current within the specified limits of the filament.
>2. Putting a resistor between 0V and the filament raises the base 
>voltage of the filament above 0V. If the tube has a grid, it is typically 
>specified to be at a negative voltage with respect to the filament so that 
>it can be guaranteed to cut off the current when pulled to that voltage. 
> An 
>easy way to achieve this negative bias is to raise the filament voltage 
>above 0V and keep the grid at 0V.
>3. 
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 4:16:12 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote:
>
>> I think I already see blunders in my original post - the filament is the 
>> cathode (I think) at 5V, the segments (individual anodes) at 25V giving a 
>> 19V difference over the grid which is at 5V.
>> I am unsure as to the correct value of the series resistor for the 
>> heaters- 10R has been used by others though I would prefer to know how that 
>> was calculated and indeed whether there are significant gains to be made by 
>> moving to an A/C drive for the filaments.
>> - Richard
>>
>> On Wednesday, 14 September 2022 at 09:02:24 UTC+1 Richard Scales wrote:
>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> I have just managed to acquire a set of these and would ideally like to 
>>> drive them the best possible way.
>>> I had initially though about a 5V for the filament and then 24V for the 
>>> cathodes and grid.
>>> The clock would only have segments activated when someone is nearby - 
>>> the segments will not be left on all of the time.
>>> Now I read about A/C supply to the filaments and wonder if I should be 
>>> going that way.
>>> Would anyone be able to post their findings and/or suggest the right way 
>>> forward?
>>> [image: VFDsnip.JPG]
>>>
>>> I just noted that the picture above shows the connection for the grid 
>>> (pin 9 on H1) connected to 5V and not the 24V as used on the cathodes.
>>> The more I think about it - the less clear this all becomes!
>>> I need to get it right in my head before I go breaking something and 
>>> then I would like to get the best possible result via reasonably straight 
>>> forward means.
>>> Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction and/or share 
>>> proven drive methods?
>>> - Richard
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, 16 September 2019 at 22:23:47 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes! That's exactly what happens. The current through the center-tap is 
>>>> the sum of the anode (segment) current and the grid current. And the peak 
>>>> current through the filament wires is actually *greater* than just the 
>>>> current to heat the filaments.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Tomasz* - As you found out, those VFDs draw a lot of current. I have 
>>>> a future design for a 6-tube ILC1-1/8 (smaller tubes than the ILC1-1/7) 
>>>> and 
>>>> I'm just going to use a high-current filament trans

Re: [neonixie-l] VFD Filament Current

[Paul Andrews]

I don't know the specs for these specific tubes, but a resistor in series 
with the filament servers a couple of purposes:

   1. It reduces the inrush current (i.e. when the filaments are cold). The 
   resistance of the filaments is low when they are cold, so if you put the 
   steady-state voltage across them in that state, there will be a much 
   greater current. For this purpose the series resistor value should be high 
   enough to drop that current within the specified limits of the filament.
   2. Putting a resistor between 0V and the filament raises the base 
   voltage of the filament above 0V. If the tube has a grid, it is typically 
   specified to be at a negative voltage with respect to the filament so that 
   it can be guaranteed to cut off the current when pulled to that voltage. An 
   easy way to achieve this negative bias is to raise the filament voltage 
   above 0V and keep the grid at 0V.
   3. 
   

On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 4:16:12 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote:

> I think I already see blunders in my original post - the filament is the 
> cathode (I think) at 5V, the segments (individual anodes) at 25V giving a 
> 19V difference over the grid which is at 5V.
> I am unsure as to the correct value of the series resistor for the 
> heaters- 10R has been used by others though I would prefer to know how that 
> was calculated and indeed whether there are significant gains to be made by 
> moving to an A/C drive for the filaments.
> - Richard
>
> On Wednesday, 14 September 2022 at 09:02:24 UTC+1 Richard Scales wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone,
>> I have just managed to acquire a set of these and would ideally like to 
>> drive them the best possible way.
>> I had initially though about a 5V for the filament and then 24V for the 
>> cathodes and grid.
>> The clock would only have segments activated when someone is nearby - the 
>> segments will not be left on all of the time.
>> Now I read about A/C supply to the filaments and wonder if I should be 
>> going that way.
>> Would anyone be able to post their findings and/or suggest the right way 
>> forward?
>> [image: VFDsnip.JPG]
>>
>> I just noted that the picture above shows the connection for the grid 
>> (pin 9 on H1) connected to 5V and not the 24V as used on the cathodes.
>> The more I think about it - the less clear this all becomes!
>> I need to get it right in my head before I go breaking something and then 
>> I would like to get the best possible result via reasonably straight 
>> forward means.
>> Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction and/or share 
>> proven drive methods?
>> - Richard
>>
>>
>> On Monday, 16 September 2019 at 22:23:47 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> Yes! That's exactly what happens. The current through the center-tap is 
>>> the sum of the anode (segment) current and the grid current. And the peak 
>>> current through the filament wires is actually *greater* than just the 
>>> current to heat the filaments.
>>>
>>>
>>> *Tomasz* - As you found out, those VFDs draw a lot of current. I have a 
>>> future design for a 6-tube ILC1-1/8 (smaller tubes than the ILC1-1/7) and 
>>> I'm just going to use a high-current filament transformer with the 
>>> center-tap at GND. Grids will NOT be pure DC; closer to full-wave rectified 
>>> around 15-16V. Segment anodes will be pure DC around 36-40V with 
>>> current-regulators and non-multiplexed.
>>>
>>> I actually have an Op-amp summer+ADC+Software to monitor the current 
>>> thru the center-rap  on my NIMO clock to determine the tube health, though 
>>> it's orders of magnitude smaller (30uA per tube).
>>>


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Re: [neonixie-l] VFD Filament Current

[Paul Andrews]

I spent a long time trying to figure out if an AC filament drive was worth 
it. I tried multiple AC circuits. In the end, they all suffered from the 
same problem - the voltage varied with the load. This was a killer for me, 
as I wanted the circuit to work for multiple VFD types. In the end it just 
wasn't worth trying to develop a regulated AC driver for several reasons.

   1. I was driving single-digit VFDs and I wanted to drive them in 
   parallel so that if one failed, the others stayed lit.
   2. If one failed, the voltage across the filaments of the others had to 
   stay the same (so no circuit whose voltage varied because of the load).
   3. The filament length was relatively short (small tubes), so the 
   voltage gradient was small enough that there was no detectable difference 
   in brightness across the length of the filament.


On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 6:26:28 AM UTC-4 David Pye wrote:

> It can indeed.
>
> For single digit tubes the brightness gradient isn't usually noticeable 
> but for the multidigit ones eg the one from the adafruit iceclock, it 
> certainly is.
>
> David
>
> On Wed, 14 Sept 2022, 10:42 Adrian Godwin,  wrote:
>
>> Using DC for the filament means there is more accelerating voltage at one 
>> end than the other and results in a noticeable difference in brightness.
>>
>> I have wondered if it could be solved without a transformer by driving 
>> the filament with a h-bridge. 
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 9:02 AM Richard Scales  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> I have just managed to acquire a set of these and would ideally like to 
>>> drive them the best possible way.
>>> I had initially though about a 5V for the filament and then 24V for the 
>>> cathodes and grid.
>>> The clock would only have segments activated when someone is nearby - 
>>> the segments will not be left on all of the time.
>>> Now I read about A/C supply to the filaments and wonder if I should be 
>>> going that way.
>>> Would anyone be able to post their findings and/or suggest the right way 
>>> forward?
>>> [image: VFDsnip.JPG]
>>>
>>> I just noted that the picture above shows the connection for the grid 
>>> (pin 9 on H1) connected to 5V and not the 24V as used on the cathodes.
>>> The more I think about it - the less clear this all becomes!
>>> I need to get it right in my head before I go breaking something and 
>>> then I would like to get the best possible result via reasonably straight 
>>> forward means.
>>> Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction and/or share 
>>> proven drive methods?
>>> - Richard
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, 16 September 2019 at 22:23:47 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>>
 Yes! That's exactly what happens. The current through the center-tap is 
 the sum of the anode (segment) current and the grid current. And the peak 
 current through the filament wires is actually *greater* than just the 
 current to heat the filaments.


 *Tomasz* - As you found out, those VFDs draw a lot of current. I have 
 a future design for a 6-tube ILC1-1/8 (smaller tubes than the ILC1-1/7) 
 and 
 I'm just going to use a high-current filament transformer with the 
 center-tap at GND. Grids will NOT be pure DC; closer to full-wave 
 rectified 
 around 15-16V. Segment anodes will be pure DC around 36-40V with 
 current-regulators and non-multiplexed.

 I actually have an Op-amp summer+ADC+Software to monitor the current 
 thru the center-rap  on my NIMO clock to determine the tube health, though 
 it's orders of magnitude smaller (30uA per tube).

> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] FS: 5 NOS 5870

[Paul Andrews]

I doubt that Burroughs had a factory in Japan. I suspect that they were 
made in Japan for Burroughs. I also suspect that the same tubes were made 
for other companies and badged for them.

On Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 12:32:58 AM UTC-4 nixiebunny wrote:

> Yes, JRC is Japan Radio. But did they have a Nixie tube factory, or did 
> they print their name on tubes made by another company? These tubes were 
> made using rather sophisticated methods, and the tooling would be rather 
> unique.
> Did JRC make Nixie tubes? Did Burroughs make Nixie tubes in Japan? 
> (I just popped the back off a c.1960 five tube radio made by Monarch in 
> Japan, and it is full of Matsushita tubes.)
> It's an interesting question. 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 20, 2022, 5:15 PM Charles MacDonald  
> wrote:
>
>> On 2022-08-20 14:25, David Forbes wrote:
>> > Max,
>> > Thanks for the photo. These JRC tubes look very similar to Japanese 
>> > Burroughs B-5870 tubes. It's likely they were made in the same factory, 
>> > but I don't know whose factory it was.
>>
>> JRC?  (Japan Radio Company)
>>
>> -- 
>> Charles MacDonald  VA3CPY
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Set of six GR10J on eBay!

[Paul Andrews]

Sold for just over $1,000

On Friday, August 12, 2022 at 3:03:58 PM UTC-4 Dekatron42 wrote:

> I believe they hadn't come as far as to add Mercury to the gas mix at this 
> stage in time.
>
> /Martin
>
> On Friday, 12 August 2022 at 19:21:57 UTC+2 nickja...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Those look really sweet.
>>
>> So did they stop using mercury because of the environmental psychosis, or 
>> was there an actual legitimate reason?
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 12, 2022 at 8:44 AM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>>
>>> Interesting they are ETL. Mine are Hivac. It took me a long time to get 
>>> a set of 6. I didn't run this clock with these tubes in it for long, 
>>> because of the lack of Hg.
>>> [image: 6F36DF9E-1657-4BBF-891C-2BEF1F623E5B_1_105_c.jpeg]
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 12, 2022 at 12:53:33 AM UTC-4 Kevin A. wrote:
>>>
>>>> I feel like PIRs are a must on most nix clocks. Why burn up tubes when 
>>>> no one is around to enjoy the glow? Seems like a total waste. 
>>>>
>>>> For older stuff that doesn't have PIR compatability built in, you can 
>>>> always get an external PIR controlled switch: 
>>>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KAB4CRG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2022, 9:36 PM Nicholas Stock  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Datasheet does give an expected lifetime of 10,000 hrs, which is 
>>>>> pretty good. Put a PIR on a clock with them and it'll last a long time...
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2022 at 6:17 PM Audrey  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> > No Hg
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That's quite unfortunate for such nice tubes
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2022, 8:51 PM Nicholas Stock  
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> No Hg in those puppies IIRC.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2022 at 3:43 PM Audrey  wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> To infinity and beyond...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2022, 6:42 PM Dekatron42  
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> A set of six GR10J on eBay: 
>>>>>>>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm?itemId=134195749943&du=1
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Not my listing….
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>>>>>>>> send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d6411510-538f-41ef-8438-e7cb34c283b2n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d6411510-538f-41ef-8438-e7cb34c283b2n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>>>>>>>> send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAPDJQ6CHTgP8gqzAaB6qHUxrZ7Deoeiu-fo9WnSEk5kEwo%3Dv%3DA%40mail.gmail.com
>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAPDJQ6CHTgP8gqzAaB6qHUxrZ7Deoeiu-fo9WnSEk5kEwo%3Dv%3DA%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>
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>>>>&

[neonixie-l] Re: New 8091 clock

[Paul Andrews]

Great concept - I love that the board is exposed like this. Your clocks are 
always an inspiration.

On Monday, August 8, 2022 at 7:15:54 PM UTC-4 MichaelB wrote:

> Been working in this bad boy for quite a while now and am finally 
> finished. One of Pete's past offerings. More work than any of the the ones 
> i have made in the past . Have a look:at the page on my site: 
> http://badnixie.com/NL8091_Angle_Deck_Nixie.html
> [image: IMG_1866a.jpg]
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] NL7037's...

[Paul Andrews]

Interesting. Was my comment deleted?

On Tuesday, August 2, 2022 at 10:05:24 AM UTC-4 nickja...@gmail.com wrote:

> What's wrong with nipples?  Hehe...  How about the little baby IN-17 with 
> a nipple on the side?
>
> On Tue, Aug 2, 2022 at 2:56 AM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>
>> People think they are ugly until they see them. Tubes with nipples on top 
>> - now *they’re* ugly.
>
>
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 1:02:41 PM UTC-4 Pramanicin wrote:
>>
>>> Not dissimilar to NL934's, and they're quite nice looking IMO. Each to 
>>> their own! CD47's, now they're *fugly*.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 10:00 AM bogdanpaduraru via neonixie-l <
>>> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Agree with you that they are ugly 
>>>> But It would be nice to have in your colection at least one NIB with 
>>>> matching socket 
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On 29 Jul 2022, at 19:29, 'Greg P' via neonixie-l <
>>>> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Gotta be one of the ugliest tubes out there IMHO.  Anode mesh is very 
>>>> coarse and the cathodes are thick and obstruct each other.  Guess people 
>>>> are paying for scarcity and the rounded top.
>>>>
>>>> Z568M / Z5680M or Dalibor tubes way nicer and cheaper.  
>>>>
>>>> My guess $1600 for the lot.
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 11:48:43 AM UTC-4 Bogdan Paduraru wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Over 2100 USD
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 29 Jul 2022, at 18:28, Kevin A.  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> 
>>>>>
>>>>> $1200-$1500 for the lot 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 11:25 AM Nicholas Stock  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jumbo-National-NL-7037-Nixie-Tubes-NIB-Set-of-4-w-sockets-/234639508700?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ...reaches for popcorn.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Not my listing etc etc... anyone want to take bets as to how much 
>>>>>> these will go for?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Nick
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>>>>>> send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRHL5sG6O8gKxcw3LnA5AJWYTNRdNO%3DzXm_FUMJCLpmb1TA%40mail.gmail.com
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRHL5sG6O8gKxcw3LnA5AJWYTNRdNO%3DzXm_FUMJCLpmb1TA%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>> an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CALcVLKL5gyZ%3DTsgaDeMeMQ7%3DWQ6MsefjmktZ%3DoWaVeKNC_J9Hw%40mail.gmail.com
>>>>>  
>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CALcVLKL5gyZ%3DTsgaDeMeMQ7%3DWQ6MsefjmktZ%3DoWaVeKNC_J9Hw%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
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>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1ee8807c-e942-45cf-99ad-0ca739c62076n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1ee8807c-e942-45cf-99ad-0ca739c62076n%40googlegroups.com?utm

Re: [neonixie-l] NL7037's...

[Paul Andrews]

People think they are ugly until they see them. Tubes with nipples on top - 
now *they’re* ugly.

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 1:02:41 PM UTC-4 Pramanicin wrote:

> Not dissimilar to NL934's, and they're quite nice looking IMO. Each to 
> their own! CD47's, now they're *fugly*.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 10:00 AM bogdanpaduraru via neonixie-l <
> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Agree with you that they are ugly 
>> But It would be nice to have in your colection at least one NIB with 
>> matching socket 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 29 Jul 2022, at 19:29, 'Greg P' via neonixie-l <
>> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>> Gotta be one of the ugliest tubes out there IMHO.  Anode mesh is very 
>> coarse and the cathodes are thick and obstruct each other.  Guess people 
>> are paying for scarcity and the rounded top.
>>
>> Z568M / Z5680M or Dalibor tubes way nicer and cheaper.  
>>
>> My guess $1600 for the lot.
>>
>> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 11:48:43 AM UTC-4 Bogdan Paduraru wrote:
>>
>>> Over 2100 USD
>>>
>>>
>>> On 29 Jul 2022, at 18:28, Kevin A.  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> $1200-$1500 for the lot 
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022, 11:25 AM Nicholas Stock  wrote:
>>>

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jumbo-National-NL-7037-Nixie-Tubes-NIB-Set-of-4-w-sockets-/234639508700?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

 ...reaches for popcorn.

 Not my listing etc etc... anyone want to take bets as to how much these 
 will go for?

 Cheers,

 Nick

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 .

>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>> -- 
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1ee8807c-e942-45cf-99ad-0ca739c62076n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>> -- 
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>>
> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/4D566F10-5F55-43AA-ADE6-73622B6F40D0%40yahoo.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: NEC find

[Paul Andrews]

The best source of data on Japanese tubes is this 
one: http://www.boreas.dti.ne.jp/~sd1250/nixie/nixie-data.html

The closest tube that matches is  LD8022, which has the correct 
manufacturer and envelope, but an additional symbol.

On Thursday, July 21, 2022 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4 Bogdan Paduraru wrote:

> Hi folks ,
> Just wanted to share my "disappointment " 
> I was hoping to buy a pair NIB CD-56 to add them to my collection but to 
> my surprise I got some very cool items :
> 1 piece of NOS CD-58 which shows "-" and "|" and combined will show "+" 
> 1 piece of NOS no label which shows" -"  ," +" (complete one ) and "Ω "
> Does any one of you have any information about the second model?
> PS : sorry about the quality of the photos 
>
> [image: 1D61319A-31EF-4294-B93E-569122E5FDD9.jpg][image: 
> 0288FA3C-5597-4E80-9513-99745393E392.jpg][image: 
> 348E312E-085C-4D06-A5BC-9F42A44609B6.jpg][image: 
> E7F76925-0BEA-4A37-ACB4-029620AC330F.jpg][image: 
> FE506E99-F748-4223-8357-8ADCAD26E34C.jpg][image: 
> 0A6E7F7D-8D37-4797-A010-D31582763D00.jpg][image: 
> A0F4427E-889C-4074-A97B-E9C02457E233.jpg]
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Calculating Anode Resistor Values

[Paul Andrews]

Assuming that the nixie tester uses 170V that is

On Wednesday, July 6, 2022 at 7:09:39 PM UTC-4 Terry Bowman wrote:

> On Jul 6, 2022, at 6:57 PM, Max Di Noi  wrote:
>
> the correct resistor is calculated as 170V minus maintaining voltage 
> (check the datasheet of the nixie, usually 140v or so) / current.
>
>
> A-ha.
>
>
> So, for a nixie that needs 2mA you would use a resistor of: (170v - 140v) 
> / 0.002 = 15k ohm.
>
>
> Perfect.
>
>
> I hope that helps.
>
>
> This doesn't just help, it REALLY helps!  8D
>
>
> Why have I never heard this before? 
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> "Every kid starts out as a natural-born scientist, and then we beat it out 
> of them. A few trickle through the system with their wonder and enthusiasm 
> for science intact."—Carl Sagan, *Psychology Today*, 1996
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 What is between Pins 1 and 8?

[Paul Andrews]

It is a capsule that contained mercury. It was heated up when the tube was 
manufactured to release the mercury. The addition of mercury to the tubes 
vastly extends their lifetime.

On Tuesday, June 14, 2022 at 10:15:13 PM UTC-4 lawill...@gmail.com wrote:

> I recently got some IN-18 nixies and noticed an internal coil/wire between 
> pins 1 and 8. What is it? 
> In one of my tubes the wire has come disconnected and loose inside the 
> tube shorting digits together.
> Thanks
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: 7971 Burroughs question

[Paul Andrews]

This is one I made a while back. It uses the tube socket pins that LB(?) 
referred to. I see it isn't very well labelled, in terms of what value of 
resistors to use, and it uses surface mount resistors. Anyway, there it 
is. https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/G9c1wPoq

On Monday, May 16, 2022 at 5:02:23 PM UTC-4 SD wrote:

> Hello
> I was referred to this mail list, thank you
> I am sitting on for years a 7971 that I want to use/adapt but cannot find 
> any sockets from ebay that are not very expensive. I do not want to 
> permanently solder to a perfboard, etc.  these things are super pricey 
> now.  
> any help appreciated
>
> thanks
> scott
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Leading 0 (10s hours) in direct drive of nixie clock - are stray effects any concern?

[Paul Andrews]

8.9k would be correct for 180V. You don't need to figure in anything else 
for direct drive. If the software/hardware uses PWM to control brightness, 
it will still be expecting 8.9k resistors. If the display is actually 
multiplexed, that would be different.

On Thursday, May 5, 2022 at 10:43:16 AM UTC-4 Don Moore wrote:

> I apologize for the title of this post.  I changed the body without 
> updating the subject.  I don't see a way to edit it.
>
> On Thursday, May 5, 2022 at 10:41:23 AM UTC-4 Don Moore wrote:
>
>> Hi - new to this group.  Brand new to nixies, and I have introductory 
>> experience with Panaplex displays.  I have a direct drive design that uses 
>> current sinks in each cathode connection.
>>
>> It appears that with the nixie, the anode resistor supplies the current 
>> limiting function.  I am using Neonixie's 6-digit clock chip and design 
>> from 2006, linked to in a recent post here, that drives 74141s to drive the 
>> tubes using direct drive.  I believe the chip uses PWM to drive the tubes, 
>> but I don't know what the duty cycle or frequency is.  I am curious about 
>> determining the anode resistor value.
>>
>> My tubes are Z5660M, which have a minimum recommended power supply of 
>> 170V.  Let's assume 180V.  The sustaining voltage is 140V.  The datasheet 
>> lists Imin = 3 ma, Imax =6  ma and Ipulse = 20ma.  Would a baseline to 
>> determine the anode resistor be to assume something in the middle like 4.5 
>> ma, which would be about 8.9k at a 40V drop?  It seems like tweaking may be 
>> needed, and to simulate the actual PWM signal to see what intensity 
>> results, and see if the value needs to be increased or decreased.  Am I on 
>> the right track?  Thank you in advance.
>>
>> Don
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Noon to be dekatron spinner owner

[Paul Andrews]

I'm just restoring an old radio that has one. I don't know if it works yet 
or if I'll need to find a replacement. This has been a goal for a while now 
- I've restored several old radios, this will be the first with a magic eye.

I also built an AM broadcast unit that uses vacuum tubes and a magic eye - 
it was a mash up of two different designs I found on the 
internet https://youtu.be/QIib5W-JCY8

On Monday, April 25, 2022 at 11:45:22 AM UTC-4 Robert G. Schaffrath wrote:

> "Magic Eye" tubes are some of my earliest memories of interesting displays 
> when I was a child. My maternal grandparents had a Dumont TV (didn't 
> everyone LOL?) that used a 6AL7 eye tube for tuning the built in AM 
> receiver. My father had a Fisher AM/FM receiver (with add-on stereo MPX 
> demodulator) that used a very rare 6GE12 eye tube with one side for AM and 
> the other FM. Then of course there were more common round 6E5, 6U5 tubes I 
> recall on some vintage receivers of various family members. By the time I 
> was a teen in the 1970's, radio used tuning meters.
>
> On Monday, April 25, 2022 at 3:13:24 AM UTC-4 Dekatron42 wrote:
>
>> You could mount the regulator & mosfet on the underside of the circuit 
>> board and perhaps get more space for a heat sink there. Just bend the legs 
>> upwards and use a spacer between the tab and the circuit board when 
>> screwing it in place so you don't stress the tab and bend it.
>>
>> /Martin
>>
>> On Monday, 25 April 2022 at 02:57:59 UTC+2 Terry Bowman wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On Apr 24, 2022, at 5:25 PM, Aisha Love  wrote:
>>>
>>> My interest started with Nixie tubes and expanded from there. I hope to 
>>> one day have a large collection of unique vintage display devices.
>>>
>>>
>>> Magic eyes. Here are some really inexpensive boards that are a good 
>>> starting point. They have a 12V jack, 3.5mm audio jack and a power switch 
>>> out 
>>> of the way in the back. This first one includes a Chinese EM84:
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/193443031569
>>>
>>>
>>> The second is almost identical. It uses three different sockets for 
>>> three different pinouts: EM80/81, EM800/EM84 or a Soviet 6E5S:
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/191011269169
>>>
>>>
>>> The seller has all three sockets. I bought six boards and two sets of 
>>> sockets. I also scored two or three each of the tubes listed above. The 
>>> only caveat with these particular boards is that the 6V regulator and the 
>>> power MOSFET don't have heatsinks and I haven't been able to find any small 
>>> enough to fit (there's almost no room). The first board has an LM317 and it 
>>> gets hotter than the LM7806.
>>>
>>> The 6E5S really heats things up. My eternal thanks to anyone who can 
>>> find an affordable TO-220 heatsink that's barely larger than the horizontal 
>>> TTR itself.
>>>
>>>
>>> My apologies if I've already talked about this before. I'm very happy 
>>> with what I ended up with and like to share. 8D
>>>
>>> I really do need to post this info to my blog but I haven't had time to 
>>> take pictures and shoot video. Sound familiar?
>>>
>>>
>>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>>
>>> "If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy Batty, *Blade 
>>> Runner*
>>>
>>>

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Re: Analog graphics - was Re: [neonixie-l] Your vote please...

[Paul Andrews]

It looks like it is almost working, so might be worth trying to repair, 
though space can be pretty tight in there. I was in a similar situation and 
chose to replace the electronics with a clock kit. I modified it heavily to 
also work as a bluetooth speaker with audio 
visualization https://youtu.be/3Jtd4h9_4nk.

An alternative to a clock is a vector graphics game mod (think battlezone 
and asteroids). This is 
one https://hackaday.com/2015/12/29/32c3-vector-video-games/, this is 
another 
https://hackaday.com/2020/05/07/scopetrex-is-a-game-console-for-your-oscilloscope/.
 
I'm not sure if these are replacements, or if they just connect to the X/Y 
inputs of a working 'scope.

On Monday, April 25, 2022 at 9:44:57 AM UTC-4 Toby Thain wrote:

> On 2022-04-24 7:45 p.m., Mac Doktor wrote:
> > 
> >> On Apr 24, 2022, at 6:10 PM, 'John Rehwinkel' via neonixie-l 
> >> mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com>> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I'd *really* like to know what frequency ratios of oscillators B and 
> >>> C create static or cycling patterns (A & D produce a lissajous figure 
> >>> baseline)). My idea is to use something like an Arduino with some 
> >>> rotary encoders that jump between ideal frequencies.
> >>
> >> Not high frequency at all, that project was from 1975.  Oscillator A 
> >> is 60Hz, oscillator B is variable from 60-240Hz, oscillator C is 
> >> variable from 300-3000Hz, and oscillator D is variable from 30-300Hz.
> > 
> > True but we're dealing with square waves here. Doing this digitally 
> > (which I am very interested in) requires a decent sampling rate to keep 
> > the corners sharp, which is a large part of the appeal of this analog 
> > version. Having tried it with a laser and some galvos I can tell you 
> > that good bandwidth makes a big difference. And that's as much as I know 
> > about it. I'm here to learn from you guys.
>
> I've been working on a vector generator. The first iteration is about 
> 20k vectors/second but supports lines and points only (no circle 
> segments or anything fancy yet). Just finished routing the PCB.
>
> It should be usable with most dev boards that use Arduino Uno pinout 
> (3.3v or 5v). I have been testing with NXP Freedom KE06Z but I expect to 
> port the code to Duemilanove and STM32 Nucleo G474RE at least.
>
> Sample output: https://imgur.com/a/fZfqSmG
>
> --Toby
>
>
> > 
> > 
> >> I've been using a Teensy board, that processor has a pair of built-in 
> >> DACs, so it wasn't hard to have the old scopes display their own names.
> > 
> > 8 bit DACs? Tell me more.
> > 
> > 
> > Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> > "The Mac Doctor"
> > 
> > https://www.astarcloseup.com 
> > 
> > “...the book said something astonishing, a very big thought. The stars, 
> > it said, were suns but very far away. The Sun was a star but close 
> > up.”—Carl Sagan, "The Backbone Of Night",/Cosmos/, 1980
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> > Groups "neonixie-l" group.
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
> > an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com 
> > .
> > To view this discussion on the web, visit 
> > 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/F63C6D78-CE08-4103-ACD8-E274FCAA4288%40gmail.com
>  
> > <
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/F63C6D78-CE08-4103-ACD8-E274FCAA4288%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer
> >.
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: PIR sensor- what's your favourite?

[Paul Andrews]

I use this:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/183928551928 - a XYC-WB-DC. The 
range is around 6m, so they are useful either for big rooms, or if you want 
to hide the sensor behind a solid cover. You can adjust the range, if you 
can find any suitable docs for it. Here is one image that shows some 
adjustments that can be 
made: 
https://www.faranux.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Microwave-Sesnor-DC-.jpg

A lot of people have problems with 'false' triggers that they assume are 
because of noisy power supplies. This may be true, but my most successful 
use of one of these is in a module that is a couple of feet away from any 
electronics - I suspect that they are triggered by stray EM radiation. 
Another possible cause is that these things see through walls and are 
pretty sensitive. Best thing is to buy a bunch of different movement 
sensors and see what works best for you.

All my clocks use espressif WiFi chips, so I broadcast triggers to all the 
clocks in the same room, so I only need one sensor in each room.

On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 10:38:48 AM UTC-4 flata...@gmail.com wrote:

> BL412 seems a good one as very simple. The circuitry around HR-501 is 
> simple enough but quite a few components as I want to embed the circuit 
> into my PCB, however it does have more options to adjust sensitivity etc. I 
> was also checking Panasonic EKMC160 which is used on the Scope Clock 
> Due that I purchased Grahame (Sgitheach, I believe he's in this group too). 
> It doesn't require any ancillary components (other than a bypass capacitor 
> and a resistor), but it's quite expensive about about $10 or more.
>
> I also find interesting the microwave sensor (plenty of options, I was 
> checking HW-MS03), although it require very careful PCB decign (what a 
> piece of engineering that is!) and I suppose it means that the enclosure of 
> the electronics cannot be made of aluminium or stainless steel. This has 
> the advantage of being more sensitive although microwaves travel across 
> wall so perhaps too sensitive for a clock.
>
> Struggling to find the balance between simple design without it being 
> overkill and something that does the job well.
>
> So many options.
>
> Il giorno lunedì 18 aprile 2022 alle 15:14:29 UTC+1 gregebert ha scritto:
>
>> I just bought a pack-of-5 from a seller on Ebay for 10 USD. They run off 
>> +5 VDC, and the output signal is TTL-compatible (0 to 3.3 VDC), so it will 
>> work with devices operating at 3.3V or 5V.  There are many sellers of this 
>> particular module, and plenty of info is available online.
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/192043733875
>>
>>
>> On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 6:33:21 AM UTC-7 newxito wrote:
>>
>>> I use the BL412 mini PIR 
>>>
>>> [image: Picture1.png]
>>>
>>> I use the mini version because I made a 3 in 1 module that includes PIR, 
>>> GPS and temperature sensor. 
>>> Since this thing is connected with an ugly cable to the clock, I'm 
>>> currently working on a wireless version that eliminates the cable and 
>>> handles all the clocks in the same room.
>>> Maybe later I will add more sensors like humidity or CO2...
>>>
>>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] eBay Paranoia

[Paul Andrews]

@threeneurons, that is very sensible. As someone who had their identity 
stolen I am very wary about any of this. BTW 'stolen identity' does not 
mean they got my credit card info. It means they got my identity and went 
around opening their own credit cards in my name, using my address and my 
social security number. This year we found out that my son also got his 
identity stolen - someone filed their taxes using his information (I still 
don't see the benefit of that).

Anyway, I stopped selling online after paypal sent me a 1099. The extra 
hassle filing taxes isn't worth it for the small amount of money I get from 
selling.

On Thursday, March 31, 2022 at 6:29:12 PM UTC-4 threeneurons wrote:

> eBay has been doing this now, for about a year and a half. I've had no 
> problems, so far. Initially, I didn't understand why they did this, only a 
> few years after selling off Paypal. So It seemed kinda stupid. But I think 
> it has to do with some legal changes both in the US and in Europe. In the 
> US, all online transactions need to include the sales tax of the buyer's 
> state. In Europe, they want the VAT collected at time of purchase. When 
> eBay took over handling the payments, they take care of both of those. 
> Sales tax and VAT get routed directly from the buyer to eBay, and (I 
> assume) to the respective government agency. I only get the item's price, 
> shipping (that I established), less eBay's fees (~10%). They deposit that 
> amount to my bank account, either daily, or weekly, dependent on the 
> sellers preference.
>
> I Long ago set up a different bank account, at a whole different bank, 
> just for online stuff. That way if either eBay or Paypal get hacked, only 
> this "online use" account is exposed. Your SSN is needed, if and when they 
> issue 1099s.
>
> Of course, all banks now, have an on line presents, so with my luck, my 
> main bank gets breached, while the small sum, at the "online use" bank 
> stays unaffected.
>
> On Thursday, March 31, 2022 at 1:45:37 PM UTC-7 Pramanicin wrote:
>
>> Etsy sellers have nixies etc on themI quite liked that platform in 
>> the beginning, but slowly their commissions grew higher and I gave up using 
>> it as a seller.
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 1:30 PM 'Grahame' via neonixie-l <
>> neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> So far I've not had a problem with eBay or Paypal but then I think I 
>>> have been following their rules when both buying and selling.
>>>
>>> I tried to open an account to buy through Alibaba house of horrors and 
>>> they asked for a photograph of my passport, proof of my home address and a 
>>> photo of the credit card I was going to use. I just deleted the email and 
>>> all those that followed asking me to pay for the goods in my basket. 
>>> Eventually they stopped and I've not tried again.
>>>
>>> Grahame
>>> On 31/03/2022 21:01, Jim KO5V wrote:
>>>
>>> Good Afternoon,
>>>
>>> For the last couple of years, I have avoided giving eBay my bank info 
>>> and SS #.  I always use PayPal on line, mainly because in my simple mind, 
>>> keeping my information in one place, rather than spreading it out all over 
>>> the web lowers the odds of having that info stolen. Several years ago,  a 
>>> couple of my CC #s were stolen when on-line merchants were hacked, so I am 
>>> probably a bit over-sensitive.
>>>
>>> I guess eBay wants to dump PayPal and "float" the money themselves, so 
>>> now I'm no longer allowed to sell unless I give them my bank info and SS# 
>>> info. I am not comfortable doing this. I still can buy on eBay with a 
>>> credit card (or PP until they get rid of it). My credit cards are protected 
>>> by their issuing banks, so if they are compromised. I'm OK.  
>>>
>>> I'm just curious how other people on this list feel about this 
>>> situations. Is there a viable alternative to eBay?
>>>
>>> BTW, eBay is holding about $7.00 from a sale I made a couple of months 
>>> ago, and they won't release it until they have my bank info. I think I'll 
>>> let it ride, and see how they handle it.
>>>
>>> Thanks. Jim
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Tube Storage

[Paul Andrews]

That's essentially what I use, and a dymo or brother labeler, except for 
the big ones, and they stay in boxes on a shelf with the contents written 
on them in sharpie on all sides.

On Wednesday, March 23, 2022 at 4:51:28 PM UTC-4 Terry Bowman wrote:

> This is a "how do you guys do it?" question...
>
> I need a way to organize and safely store the odds and ends of tubes that 
> I have. Nixies, Dekatrons, bargraphs, Magic Eyes etc. as well as a lot of 
> the weird things from the WWII era.
>
> Half of this stuff is loose except for some bubble wrap. Most of the 
> Soviet surplus items are still in the box sent from Ukraine, all different 
> shapes and sizes. It makes finding a particular tube a real hassle and 
> handling a box like this can lead to disaster.
>
> Then there's cabinets. You can't find anything decent anymore. Everything 
> is overpriced flimsy crap. The drawers all fall out if you tip it 30°. 
> Standing cabinets are only four feet high and can't take more than five 
> pounds of stuff on top.
>
> I did manage to find this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003P2UOCO
>
>
> From the video it appears that at least the drawers don't slide all of the 
> way out.
>
>
> I also need boxes for my bubble lights and bubble tubes. If I had a a 18 x 
> 26 laser cutter I'd make custom boxes and inserts out of heavy C1S stock 
> but I don't have a place to set one up. Can't afford one that size right 
> now, anyway.
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> Edward R. Murrow: “Who owns the patent on this vaccine?”
> Dr. Jonas Salk: “Well, the people, I would say. There is no patent. Could 
> you patent the sun?”—*See It Now*, 12 April 1955
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie Watch Repair

[Paul Andrews]

David Forbes (aka nixiebunny) is on this list. If you can't get him here, 
try the "nixie clock fan page" on facebook.

On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 12:13:57 PM UTC-5 Morton Denison wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> I've got one of the Cathode Corner Round Nixie Watches that's developed a 
> mechanical problem.
>
> The '-' terminal is loose to the point that if I change the battery I'm 
> afraid it'll fall off the circuit board.  From what I can see, it looks 
> like a solder joint has failed.
>
> I've emailed Cathode Corner using both the neonixie-l and the 
> cathodecorner.com email addresses with no reply., requesting repair.
>
> Does anyone on the board here have the expertise on repair?
>
> I'm old, with hand tremors and other health issues so it's beyond my 
> skills.  10 years ago, I'd try it :>)
>
> Thanks,
> Mort
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Sylvania Florotron Display. 8894

[Paul Andrews]

If you're referring to my clock, they are IV-15.

On Monday, February 7, 2022 at 6:06:28 PM UTC-5 M1 wrote:

> A clock was posted with the colons.  Love the spiral.
>
>  
>
> I found them to be:
>
> IV-15 or DM160 or 6977
>
>  
>
> I bought a bunch thinking they were a lot bigger and was disappointed with 
> the size, but still like them.
>
>  
>
> Was surprised when I just checked to see their prices.   Damn.
>
>  
>
> Michail Wilson
>
> 206-920-6312 <(206)%20920-6312>
>
>  
>
> *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com  *On Behalf 
> Of *Audrey
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 5, 2022 9:14 AM
> *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Sylvania Florotron Display. 8894
>
>  
>
> Nice little collection bill :), wonderful tubes either way of course
>
>  
>
> On Sat, Feb 5, 2022, 8:34 AM Bill Notfaded  wrote:
>
> I love these tube with and without mica.  When I first saw them without 
> mica I had to have some because they are unlike any other VFD I've ever 
> seen!
>
> Bill
>
> On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 10:16:44 AM UTC-7 tntm...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi Bill, the DT-1704A, DT-1704B, DT-1705A and DT-1705B Digivac tubes 
> actually had true floating segments without mica sheets, the later DT-1704C 
> and DT-1705C tubes implemented the mics sheet, probably a good change for 
> reliability.
>
>  
>
> On Fri, Feb 4, 2022, 5:44 AM Bill Notfaded  wrote:
>
> Awesome thanks for the datasheet!  It looked to me similar to the other 
> what I call floating VFD on mica type tubes like a handful of others.
>
>  
>
> Bill
>
> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:01:53 PM UTC-7 charles wrote:
>
> According to the original data sheet the 8894 is more or less standard 
> 7 segment VFD. clipping from the TCA Data Cache. 
>
>
> -- 
> Charles MacDonald VA3CPY Stittsville Ontario 
> cm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the Fringe 
> No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail.
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Is it just me?

[Paul Andrews]

Maybe. I’m thinking of making another batch. PM me.

> On Feb 3, 2022, at 6:24 PM, Bill Notfaded  wrote:
> 
> 
> I agree with Paul.  We need a pinned thread about this.  Also Paul I'd be 
> willing to part with some tubes for one of your single tube clocks maybe with 
> some tube boards but I can order them since you've made them open source 
> basically.  I love your single tube clock.  It's really f'in cool stuff!  
> Your website is super cool too!  I can't tell you how many times I've googled 
> for some weird tube and guess who's got them on his site?  Hehe props.  It's 
> nice when some of us can be references for others.  I wish I had more time 
> but work is crazy busy right now.  I got to Scottsdale Barrett Jackson this 
> past week on first day and last... I love cars but I think neon is even 
> bigger fancy.
> 
> I haven't unboxed it yet but I brought that 8 tube 7971 clock and wanna see 
> how it's made.  It might be a one off since no one really recognized it.
> 
> I'm kinda psyched.  I preordered a big 3D resin printer called Elegoo Saturn 
> during their Kickstarter where they raised over 4M.  I'm hoping I can make 
> some larger nixie tube cases and also other stuff like missing feet for test 
> gear etc.  The resolution is legit.  Unlike many 3D printers you really can't 
> see the layers and it's finally something you can afford to buy.
> 
> There was a time when eBay was just too many things to consider but it seems 
> these days it's look and see if anything neat comes up.
> 
> I bought a couple Heathkit GC-1005's with a couple spare sets of SP-352 this 
> week.  That's my buys this week.  I thought $100 each was great price for the 
> clocks in mint condition?  The Babcock Beckman were 60$ for set of 3 working. 
>  The clocks aren't flickering either.
> 
> Bill
> 
> Bill
> 
>> On Sun, Jan 30, 2022, 7:08 AM Paul Andrews  wrote:
>> I feel there should be a pinned thread titled “I can’t believe the price of 
>> tubes these days”. Don’t get me wrong, I also gasp at some of the asking 
>> prices I see!
>> 
>> Love those IN-18s. I would love to have a set, but I’m not sure I could 
>> justify the asking price, and I really need to make clocks for all the tubes 
>> I already have.
>> 
>>> On Sunday, January 30, 2022 at 8:18:36 AM UTC-5 Robert G. Schaffrath wrote:
>>> I paid $125 for 25 NOS  Philips ZM1022's back in 2002. Kicking myself I did 
>>> not buy 50 at the time as I had the money and they are one of my favorite 
>>> style tubes. They sat packed away for years until 2019 when I got several 
>>> of the four digit Chinese clocks that use them.
>>> 
>>>> On Saturday, January 29, 2022 at 7:26:46 PM UTC-5 J Forbes wrote:
>>>> A screen shot of part of David's Cathode Corner page twenty years ago. I 
>>>> remember when he paid $800 for a box of 100 ZM1040s. Man that was a lot of 
>>>> money! :)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Saturday, January 29, 2022 at 4:28:37 PM UTC-7 Terry Bowman wrote:
>>>>>> On Jan 24, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Nick Andrews  wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> That's just crazy talk.  Glad I picked up some IN-9 and IN-13 a while 
>>>>>> back, but wish I'd bought a lot more.  I think IN-9 should be about 
>>>>>> $5-6ea and the 13s what, $10?  I wish, not any more!  I think it's 
>>>>>> awesome that some folks are being inventive and making things, but it 
>>>>>> really sucks when it ruins the market for specific items which haven't 
>>>>>> been made in decades.
>>>>> 
>>>>> It's been a little over four years since I got into this hobby. In April 
>>>>> of 2018 I made some large purchases on eBay; a variety of cold cathode 
>>>>> goodies, all NOS. The Nixies were all symbolic, no numerics. Here's a 
>>>>> sampling of the prices (not including very reasonable combined shipping). 
>>>>> :
>>>>> 
>>>>> vannadiy:
>>>>> OG-4 - @$5
>>>>> 2  each of IN-19A/B/V - $11 = @$1.84
>>>>> 10  IN-7 - $11.50 = @$1.15
>>>>> 
>>>>> uralspirit:
>>>>> IN-15A/B - @$1.50
>>>>> IN-5A-1/IN-5B-1 - @$2.50
>>>>> IN-7A - @$2.00
>>>>> IN-7B - @$1.90
>>>>> IN-13 - @$6.50  [only $6 a week earlier]
>>>>> 
>>>>> Another seller listed 12 IN-9s for $32 and ac

Re: [neonixie-l] Is it just me?

[Paul Andrews]

They look like DT1704A - the tubes are a little fatter than the Bs and Cs.

> On Feb 3, 2022, at 8:29 PM, Bill Notfaded  wrote:
> 
> A little closer.
> 
> 
>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 6:24:38 PM UTC-7 Bill Notfaded wrote:
>> Some other tubes I bought.  What does anyone know about Sylvania 8894?  Here 
>> they are.
>> 
>> I'm familiar with the DT-1704B but not the 8894 Sylvania?
>> 
>>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 6:02:40 PM UTC-7 Bill Notfaded wrote:
>>> Also yeah it's the 7971 8 tube clock.
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 5:56:22 PM UTC-7 M1 wrote:
>>>> Bill,
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Not sure which 8 tube thing you’re talking about since the link wasn’t 
>>>> provided; however, I think you mean the black clock with 8 x B-7971.  If 
>>>> so, then, heheh, I have one.
>>>> 
>>>> It is the Cogwheel design clock.  I actually went through the process of 
>>>> making one (sourcing the case, etc).  Let me know if you need any info.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> More funny is that I also got the Elegoo Saturn. I’ve only printed the 
>>>> rook.  Yes, the resolution is great.  I assume you also got the uv 
>>>> cure/washing station as well?  It sits waiting for me to give it a real 
>>>> job.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> As for the GC-1005, I have one that was cheaper, but did have a problem.  
>>>> Easy fix.  As for the SP-352, I have plenty if you really need one.  I 
>>>> have found it best to contact sellers directly to purchase and they will 
>>>> negotiate a better price than the high prices they’re asking on ebay.  Of 
>>>> course I normally try to buy them all.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Michail Wilson
>>>> 
>>>> 206-920-6312
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: neoni...@googlegroups.com  On Behalf Of 
>>>> Bill Notfaded
>>>> Sent: Thursday, February 3, 2022 3:25 PM
>>>> To: neonixie-l 
>>>> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Is it just me?
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I agree with Paul.  We need a pinned thread about this.  Also Paul I'd be 
>>>> willing to part with some tubes for one of your single tube clocks maybe 
>>>> with some tube boards but I can order them since you've made them open 
>>>> source basically.  I love your single tube clock.  It's really f'in cool 
>>>> stuff!  Your website is super cool too!  I can't tell you how many times 
>>>> I've googled for some weird tube and guess who's got them on his site?  
>>>> Hehe props.  It's nice when some of us can be references for others.  I 
>>>> wish I had more time but work is crazy busy right now.  I got to 
>>>> Scottsdale Barrett Jackson this past week on first day and last... I love 
>>>> cars but I think neon is even bigger fancy.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I haven't unboxed it yet but I brought that 8 tube 7971 clock and wanna 
>>>> see how it's made.  It might be a one off since no one really recognized 
>>>> it.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I'm kinda psyched.  I preordered a big 3D resin printer called Elegoo 
>>>> Saturn during their Kickstarter where they raised over 4M.  I'm hoping I 
>>>> can make some larger nixie tube cases and also other stuff like missing 
>>>> feet for test gear etc.  The resolution is legit.  Unlike many 3D printers 
>>>> you really can't see the layers and it's finally something you can afford 
>>>> to buy.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> There was a time when eBay was just too many things to consider but it 
>>>> seems these days it's look and see if anything neat comes up.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I bought a couple Heathkit GC-1005's with a couple spare sets of SP-352 
>>>> this week.  That's my buys this week.  I thought $100 each was great price 
>>>> for the clocks in mint condition?  The Babcock Beckman were 60$ for set of 
>>>> 3 working.  The clocks aren't flickering either.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Bill
>>>

[neonixie-l] Re: IN28's...

[Paul Andrews]

Wow, that all looks original, which is impressive. It must weigh a ton. Ask 
me how I know ;-).

On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 6:26:25 PM UTC-5 Pramanicin wrote:

> https://www.ebay.at/itm/293049689642?hash=item443b1f662a:g:dcQAAOSwdzRanSUj
>
> Massive!
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Is it just me?

[Paul Andrews]

I feel there should be a pinned thread titled “I can’t believe the price of 
tubes these days”. Don’t get me wrong, I also gasp at some of the asking 
prices I see!

Love those IN-18s. I would love to have a set, but I’m not sure I could 
justify the asking price, and I really need to make clocks for all the 
tubes I already have.

On Sunday, January 30, 2022 at 8:18:36 AM UTC-5 Robert G. Schaffrath wrote:

> I paid $125 for 25 NOS  Philips ZM1022's back in 2002. Kicking myself I 
> did not buy 50 at the time as I had the money and they are one of my 
> favorite style tubes. They sat packed away for years until 2019 when I got 
> several of the four digit Chinese clocks that use them.
>
> On Saturday, January 29, 2022 at 7:26:46 PM UTC-5 J Forbes wrote:
>
>> A screen shot of part of David's Cathode Corner page twenty years ago. I 
>> remember when he paid $800 for a box of 100 ZM1040s. Man that was a lot of 
>> money! :)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, January 29, 2022 at 4:28:37 PM UTC-7 Terry Bowman wrote:
>>
>>> On Jan 24, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Nick Andrews  wrote:
>>>
>>> That's just crazy talk.  Glad I picked up some IN-9 and IN-13 a while 
>>> back, but wish I'd bought a lot more.  I think IN-9 should be about $5-6ea 
>>> and the 13s what, $10?  I wish, not any more!  I think it's awesome that 
>>> some folks are being inventive and making things, but it really sucks when 
>>> it ruins the market for specific items which haven't been made in decades.
>>>
>>>
>>> It's been a little over four years since I got into this hobby. In April 
>>> of 2018 I made some large purchases on eBay; a variety of cold cathode 
>>> goodies, all NOS. The Nixies were all symbolic, no numerics. Here's a 
>>> sampling of the prices (not including very reasonable combined shipping). :
>>>
>>> vannadiy:
>>> OG-4 - @$5
>>> 2  each of IN-19A/B/V - $11 = @$1.84
>>> 10  IN-7 - $11.50 = @$1.15
>>>
>>> uralspirit:
>>> IN-15A/B - @$1.50
>>> IN-5A-1/IN-5B-1 - @$2.50
>>> IN-7A - @$2.00
>>> IN-7B - @$1.90
>>> *IN-13 - @$6.50*  [only $6 a week earlier]
>>>
>>> Another seller listed 12 IN-9s for $32 and accepted my offer of $28. 
>>> That's $2.34 apiece less than four years ago.
>>>
>>> Sadly, I only purchased five of the IN-13s. Even worse, I could have 
>>> gotten six or eight argon-filled IN-9s for $36 + shipping and passed on it. 
>>> I haven't seen any since. o_O
>>>
>>>
>>> Right now I possess thirteen IN-9s and ten IN-13s. You know that some of 
>>> these won't work well enough to be used. I have a use for seven of the 
>>> IN-13s right now.
>>>
>>>
>>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>>
>>> "There is no Main Street anymore except at Disneyland—and try and buy a 
>>> gun there"—Hank Hill
>>>
>>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: A video about all things nixie

[Paul Andrews]

Love it. Is it possible to include links to the patent documents you have 
uncovered?

On Wednesday, December 22, 2021 at 11:09:25 PM UTC-5 Kevin A. wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Since discovering the joy of nixie tubes a few years ago, I have learned a 
> tremendous amount from not only collecting but also making clocks, both 
> kits and from scratch. 
>
> There are a lot of videos on youtube showcasing this or that nixie tube 
> product, or briefly discussing what a nixie tube is and how to use one, but 
> no one video that really encompasses nixies from their conception to modern 
> day, with a little bit of technical background trickled in. 
>
> I just finished putting together this video about nixies; with segments 
> about nixie history, how they work, different styles, and what the market 
> looks like today. Its only a 13 minute video, so there is no way I can 
> cover everything about everything when it comes to any of these subjects, 
> but I intended it to be a relatively brief but informative watch for 
> newcomers or beginners in the hobby who want to know more. 
>
> Enjoy and let me know what you think: 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmiJsM5oGag  
> 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] A pair of Rodan Okaya CD47 / GR414 on eBay (used with green corrosion on one pin).....

[Paul Andrews]

I have one that has been running for a couple of years now (maybe 6 hours a 
day). It doesn't show any signs of any issues. Not sure about the glass 
thickness - I would assume it is the same as other tubes.

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 10:47:03 AM UTC-5 gregebert wrote:

> For the lucky few who have one or more of these enormous beasts, have you 
> seen any hint of degradation or leakage ? I've always wondered if there 
> were manufacturing challenges due to the size.
>
> Also, is the glass thicker than typical nixies ?
>
> On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 6:08:19 PM UTC-8 tntm...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> IMO they dont look too bad, theyre called working
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 9:06 PM Terry S  wrote:
>>
>>> Fugly is in the eye of the beholder.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 1:49:18 PM UTC-6 Pramanicin wrote:
>>>
 Again, fugly tubes...

 :)

 On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 11:03 AM Dekatron42  
 wrote:

> Just spotted these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/353770528495 used with 
> green corrosion on at least one pin.
>
> /Martin
>
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>>> .
>>>
>>

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