Enablement!

2001-03-21 Thread David A. Mann

I think that's a word ;)

 I just bought my 43mm Limited.  I ended up getting the one I'd borrowed as 
a brand new one from Japan would have cost me about NZ$300 more due to 
the worsening exchange rate.

 Now I'm itching to play with it some more :)

 BTW, the K2 I was having repaired; it's gone back to the repairers for the 
_third_ time.  They still haven't fixed the light meter... (I'm one of the most 
patient guys you'd ever meet but I'm starting to get frustrated now!)

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E.
email [EMAIL PROTECTED] * http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

"Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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Re: KMP update

2001-03-21 Thread David A. Mann

Bojidar Dimitrov writes:

> I have just made a new release of the KMP.  I hope you enjoy it...

 Hi Boz,

 My old web browser (IE3.0) doesn't understand the background colours in 
your frames.  It renders the text in your top and bottom frames as orange on 
a grey background which is just about impossible to read :(

 I really should use my newer Netscape by default now, but I like the old IE 
too much...

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E.
email [EMAIL PROTECTED] * http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

"Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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RE: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread David A. Mann

Paul Provencher writes:

> 010321-01-05 - The fifth frame of the first roll shot on March 21, 2001.

 I use a similar kind of system which I made up myself.  It goes "format-
month/year-[film type+roll number]-frame".

 For example, "6x7-3/2001-S1-4" means 6x7 format, shot (actually I use the 
processing date) during March 2001, S means its a slide film (I use P for 
print film), 1 indicates the first of that month, and frame #4 on that roll.

 This works well for me as I store prints and slides separately, in order of 
date.  I don't bother getting too specific about the date because I usually 
take a while to go through a roll, unless I'm on holiday when I might shoot a 
roll on a good day.

 I only started using this system at the beginning of last year so anything I 
shot during '98 or '99 gets an 'x' in the month position as my memory isn't 
_that_ good :)

 I am working on a searchable database system in my spare time but 
"feature creep" and other interests are all conspiring to delay it.  Once I've 
done the software I need to put the data into it which will be quite a long job 
in itself...

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E.
email [EMAIL PROTECTED] * http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

"Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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TTL flash

2001-03-21 Thread David A. Mann

Hi guys,

 I've been thinking about TTL flash recently.

 Within the Z-1p I believe the TTL flash sensor is centre-weighted.  So if 
you're trying to flash a small object close to the lens, where the background 
is comparatively much further away, the flash ends up overpowering the 
subject to try and achieve an acceptable average over both foreground and 
background, within the coverage of the sensor.

 I figure that a better way of doing this would be to control the flash by 
making the lens communicate its focus distance back to the body, and the 
flash communicate its GN.  The body can then figure out exactly how much 
flash power to apply for a correct exposure at that distance, as a fraction of 
what the flash can actually provide.  For consistent results the flash power 
would have to be controlled by the flash itself, perhaps using a sensor behind 
the tube used in a similar fashion to the old auto-flash sensors (I wouldn't 
want a totally open-loop system).

 Has anyone actually implemented such a system?  I'd totally love it for my 
macro work, and any portraiture where the subject doesn't totally dominate 
the frame.

 If noone's done it then I'd like my name on the patent please, Pentax :)

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E.
email [EMAIL PROTECTED] * http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

"Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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Re: How to use a K (NOT KA) lens in the PZ-1P

2001-03-21 Thread David A. Mann

Alex writes:

> I thought the link was electronic, not mechanic.

 The electronic contact in an "A" lens only communicates the minimum and 
maximum apertures.  This is so the body knows what the limits are in 
program mode (so it won't try to set an f/5.6 lens to f/2.8, or try to set f/32 
when the lens only goes to f/22).

 The actual aperture you've selected is communicated using the mechanical 
coupling as the other guys indicated.

Cheers,

- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E.
email [EMAIL PROTECTED] * http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

"Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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Re: Finally got my FA*24 F2.0

2001-03-21 Thread Antti-Pekka Virjonen

At 21:37 20.3.2001 +1100, Paul Jones wrote:
>I just received my 24 F2.0 lense today, that i asked so many questions about
>before i bought it.
>
> its looks awesome, the build quality appears to be excellent.
>
>The manual focus seems to be great too for an AF lense.
>
>I'm rapped so far, i'll have to take some photos on my lunch break tomorrow.

Happy you !

I was shooting aurora borealis this week (two nights) with my SMC 15/3.5 and A 28/2.8
and M 50/1.7 on ISO 400 and 1600 slides and started to wonder how well would
the 24/2.0 would perform wide open in astrophoto and such ? Any comments ?
It would be quite a lot faster...

Antti-Pekka

---
* Antti-Pekka Virjonen * Fiskarsinkatu 7 D   * GSM: +358 400 789753 *
* Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 2 413  *

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Looking for info on P67 lenses 165 f2.8 & 165 f4.0 LS

2001-03-21 Thread Darren & Tara Sutherland

Does anyone have any experience with either P67 165mm lens...or both?  I am
asking for a friend.  He's trying to determine which is the best choice.
He's mostly doing portraiture and large group (ie. sports teams)
photography.  His primary concern is optical performance.  The optical
formula seems to be different (I guess to allow for the Leaf Shutter) with
each, but we have not been able to determine if one out-performs the other.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Darren S.
Vancouver, BC
Canuckland

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Re: A rare Pentax SMC 80-210 f/3.5 for sale

2001-03-21 Thread Darren & Tara Sutherland

What I know of this lens is that it's BIG!  It's about 50% longer than the
SMC-A 70-210 f4.0 however, it is usually seen cheaper around my town
(Vancouver).  Well...when we actually see them.  I found that it's size
really deterred people from purchasing the one that my store had.  It sat
and sat and sat until someone who didn't mind the size saw it as a good
value for the price we had on it.

Darren S.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: March 20, 2001 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: A rare Pentax SMC 80-210 f/3.5 for sale


>I'm afraid I have collected no comments about this lens. Why not? I suspect
>because so much praise has been heaped upon the 70-210/4A, which is much
>cheaper and commonly available, that I felt few would be interested.
>
>
>
>
>Paul Franklin Stregevsky
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>W: (703) 834-4648
>
>-
>This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
>go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
>visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
>
>
>

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RE: Self enabled a F 100 2.8 Macro

2001-03-21 Thread Kevin Thornsberry

>4)  FA* 80-200/2.8 - This is one I really want but rarely turns up used.
(probably because it is a good lens to have)  I haven't checked third party
options on this one but may to save a few .

That's an expensive lens, but very good.  You could get a slower lens and
save some money for other Pentax items.  I don't know anything about 3rd
party competitors for superfast telezooms.

[Kevin Thornsberry's reply]  Well, the only way I'll assemble this collection is with 
used equipment.  If/when I get it the 80-200/2.8 will likely be the workhorse of my 
collection.  I've had enough cheap equipment in my life.  I'm going to set the bar a 
little higher and wait for what I want to come along.

Thanks for your help.

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Re: ZX-30 Questions

2001-03-21 Thread T Caleb Fauver

Thank you everyone for your advice.  I feel much better.  I was worried
I was the proud owner of a lemon.  :)

If you all don't mind, I do have one more quick question for now.  I am
planning on taking a photography class this summer or next fall.  Will
my professor cringe when he sees my automatic-capable camera?  Should I
save my pennies for a K-1000 to use for this class?  I wouldn't dream of
cheating; I am sincerly interested in learning.  Any advice from
teachers or people that have taken photography classes would be
appreciated.

Thank you again,

Caleb

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RE: OT Film: Hue shift examples

2001-03-21 Thread Juan J. Buhler

On Wed, 21 Mar 2001, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:

> Overexposures of laser-illuminated objects may give you that effect.  If I
> remember correctly, some experimental shots I did recently with 635-nm diode
> laser illumination in a completely darkened room showed some orange in the
> specular reflections off a glazed white ceramic object.  The laser itself is
> most definitely red, not orange.  This was on Fuji Superia, which I believe
> is now a four-layer emulsion.

Thanks Bill.

Laser is what I thought about using for the tests. If I get around to
doing them (we do know what to do with our renderer, we were just
looking for examples because it's an interesting topic) I'll post them
in the the web and report to the list.

j

--
-
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RE: OT: Speaking of closings...

2001-03-21 Thread William D. Sawyer

Thanks, Ken and Paul.  I'm familiar with the place from when it was "Meteor". I'd 
heard it had changed hands a couple of years ago, and had gone downhill from it's 
previous reputation as "the best in the area".  Sounds like they're trying to get away 
from that.  I'm looking for someone who can make decent digital prints from slides, 
and I will give them a try.  

I hate to admit it, but I send most of my slides to Costco (GASP!!), who in turn send 
them to a Kodak lab.  Less than $5 for a 36 exp roll, and the quality is pretty good 
to my cheap eye.  ;-}

Ken, if you're in the area, maybe we can all do another Pentax walkabout in the coming 
months...

Bill Sawyer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kenneth Waller
Sent: March 21, 2001 7:43 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Speaking of closings...


 
Paul & Bill and others in the Detroit vicinity - the name of the place is
Photobition @ 1099 Chicago Rd. Troy Mi. 48083 P/N (248) 583-3090. I continue
to use them and have very little to complain about - occasionally a poorly
mounted slide, but otherwise I am satisfied with them. I find I need to give
them very specific instructions to get some of the other things I want, but
they will stand behind their work. I use them for slides, internegs blowups
and Photo CD scans.
Ken Waller
- Original Message -
From: PAUL STENQUIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: OT: Speaking of closings...


> Sure Bill,
> It's the old Meteor lab, which has a new name. I think it's called
> Detroit Graphics or something like that. They're open 8:30 AM to 6PM on
> weekdays. I'm not sure about Saturdays. I have an address and phone
> number at work, and I'll try to remember to write back to you off list
> with all that info. I can tell you where they are from memory. If you're
> coming off I-75, you would exit at 14 Mile east. Then you'd take a left
> at the first major intersection. It's actually an entrance to Oakland
> Mall. But just as you turn into the mall, you'd see a service road that
> loops around the mall. You turn left on that road, which takes you
> around to the back of the mall. As you approach the mid-point of the
> rear of the mall, there's a stop sign intersection. You then turn left
> into the road that intersects with the service road at that point. I
> think it's called Chicago Road. You head straight north on that road
> about a quarter mile and the lab is on your left. I'm sure you were
> there when they were called Meteor. Same place, same people, new name. I
> believe they charge $9.50 for a roll of 35mm E-6, mounted. Their work
> seems to be flawless, and the turnaround is two hours.
> Paul
> "William D. Sawyer" wrote:
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > Can you share a name and address?
> >
> > Bill Sawyer
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of PAUL STENQUIST
> > Sent: March 20, 2001 6:40 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: OT: Speaking of closings...
> >
> >
> > Interesting. Perhaps they didn't diversify. The same-day E-6 lab that I
> > frequent continues to do a lot of E-6 work in all formats, including 8 x
> > 10. But they also do very nice drum scans and produce top-shelf digital
> > prints from their own scans or from digital images on disk. They make
> > some of the huge display prints that the car companies use at auto shows
> > and in things like lobby displays. They're doing it all and apparently
> > making money.
> >
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > >
> > > The processing lab 5 minutes away from home is gone.
> > >
> > > I went with some E-6 slides yesterday and they are closed-up.
> > >
> > > This means no same day processing for me.
> > >
> > > Did digital get them?  I don't know...
> > >
> > > Regards,  Bob S.
> > > -
> > > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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This me

Re: Introduction to ME, continued.....8-)

2001-03-21 Thread Jan van Wijk

On Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:24:23 +1000, Tanya & Russell Mayer wrote:

>my first query
>is in regards to the Pz-20.  Is anybody familiar with this model (I believe
>that it was released in '94 and
>discontinued in '95)?  I know that it is only a fairly basic model, but I
>have had one offered to me for a
>good price and I am genuinely interested in the "hyper" mode function that
>it offers.  All  comments
>and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I don't know the Pz-20 very well, I have only seen some at shops.

However, there is some info on the famous Pentax K-mount site by out list member Boz:

http://www.phred.org/pentax/k/

Just select "bodies" from the bottom menu and navigate from there.

These are mainly bare bone specifications, so you won't find much explanation about
the hyper mode I guess.

I am sure other will supply all the info you can take :-)

Regards, JvW
-
Jan van Wijk;   www.fsys.demon.nl


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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread William Robb


- Original Message -
From: "Shel Belinkoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: March 21, 2001 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??


> I already know how it does with the K85/1.8, the A*85/1.4, the
> K105/2.8, the A100/2.8 macro, and the A200/4.0 macro ... and I
still
> like it.

Gosh, a love in for the M85mm f2. I would just like it on the
record that I think mine is fine.
William Robb



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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread Shel Belinkoff

I already know how it does with the K85/1.8, the A*85/1.4, the
K105/2.8, the A100/2.8 macro, and the A200/4.0 macro ... and I still
like it.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

William Robb wrote:

> From: "John Mustarde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> > I'm gonna go out and shoot some sharp 
> > pics with my M 85/2 just to prove everyone wrong.
> >
> > I hope.
> >
> > I'll check to see how it compares to 
> > the FA 100/2.8 Macro, A* 200/4
> > Macro, FA* 600/4,  F* 300/4.5, K 200/2.5
> >
> > ... and the lowly but optically fine A 50/2.
> 
> Well, I will see how it does compared to the 77, the A100mm f2.8
> macro, and perhaps the K105mm f2.8.
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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread William Robb


- Original Message -
From: "John Mustarde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: March 21, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??


> I'm gonna go out and shoot some sharp pics with my M 85/2 just
to
> prove everyone wrong.
>
> I hope.
>
> I'll check to see how it compares to the FA 100/2.8 Macro, A*
200/4
> Macro, FA* 600/4,  F* 300/4.5, K 200/2.5
>
> ... and the lowly but optically fine A 50/2.

Well, I will see how it does compared to the 77, the A100mm f2.8
macro, and perhaps the K105mm f2.8.
William Robb



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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread John Mustarde

I'm gonna go out and shoot some sharp pics with my M 85/2 just to
prove everyone wrong. 

I hope. 

I'll check to see how it compares to the FA 100/2.8 Macro, A* 200/4
Macro, FA* 600/4,  F* 300/4.5, K 200/2.5

... and the lowly but optically fine A 50/2.
-- 
Happy Trails,
Texdance
http://members.fortunecity.com/texdance
http://members1.clubphoto.com/john8202
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Re: SPF - K-mount adapter

2001-03-21 Thread Douglas E Harmon

I was pondering this when looking at SM lenses at different shops here or
there. I have a question, don't some lenses have different preceived or
actual focus at different apertures? I seem to have read or heard this
somewhere. Is this true?

l8r,
Douglas E Harmon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/~genius91/
- Original Message -
From: PAUL STENQUIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: SPF - K-mount adapter


: Sure, many of us use the adapter. Stop down metering is a no brainer.
: You simply set the lens aperture switch to the m or manual position,
: focus wide open, then stop down to the desired aperture setting for
: metering and shooting.
: Paul
:
: jmadams wrote:
: >
: > I have just found out I can use my lenses for the SPF on a K-Mount
camera,
: > using the Pentax Adaptor.
: > They are charging CDN$24 + tax for a pucka Pentax adaptor(new), only
: > drawback, is I would have to learn how to use Stop-down metering.  Has
: > anyone used one of the adaptors?
: > James
: >
: > -
: > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
: > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Re: OT: Speaking of closings...

2001-03-21 Thread Kenneth Waller

Paul & Bill and others in the Detroit vicinity - the name of the place is
Photobition @ 1099 Chicago Rd. Troy Mi. 48083 P/N (248) 583-3090. I continue
to use them and have very little to complain about - occasionally a poorly
mounted slide, but otherwise I am satisfied with them. I find I need to give
them very specific instructions to get some of the other things I want, but
they will stand behind their work. I use them for slides, internegs blowups
and Photo CD scans.
Ken Waller
- Original Message -
From: PAUL STENQUIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: OT: Speaking of closings...


> Sure Bill,
> It's the old Meteor lab, which has a new name. I think it's called
> Detroit Graphics or something like that. They're open 8:30 AM to 6PM on
> weekdays. I'm not sure about Saturdays. I have an address and phone
> number at work, and I'll try to remember to write back to you off list
> with all that info. I can tell you where they are from memory. If you're
> coming off I-75, you would exit at 14 Mile east. Then you'd take a left
> at the first major intersection. It's actually an entrance to Oakland
> Mall. But just as you turn into the mall, you'd see a service road that
> loops around the mall. You turn left on that road, which takes you
> around to the back of the mall. As you approach the mid-point of the
> rear of the mall, there's a stop sign intersection. You then turn left
> into the road that intersects with the service road at that point. I
> think it's called Chicago Road. You head straight north on that road
> about a quarter mile and the lab is on your left. I'm sure you were
> there when they were called Meteor. Same place, same people, new name. I
> believe they charge $9.50 for a roll of 35mm E-6, mounted. Their work
> seems to be flawless, and the turnaround is two hours.
> Paul
> "William D. Sawyer" wrote:
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > Can you share a name and address?
> >
> > Bill Sawyer
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of PAUL STENQUIST
> > Sent: March 20, 2001 6:40 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: OT: Speaking of closings...
> >
> >
> > Interesting. Perhaps they didn't diversify. The same-day E-6 lab that I
> > frequent continues to do a lot of E-6 work in all formats, including 8 x
> > 10. But they also do very nice drum scans and produce top-shelf digital
> > prints from their own scans or from digital images on disk. They make
> > some of the huge display prints that the car companies use at auto shows
> > and in things like lobby displays. They're doing it all and apparently
> > making money.
> >
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > >
> > > The processing lab 5 minutes away from home is gone.
> > >
> > > I went with some E-6 slides yesterday and they are closed-up.
> > >
> > > This means no same day processing for me.
> > >
> > > Did digital get them?  I don't know...
> > >
> > > Regards,  Bob S.
> > > -
> > > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> > > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Re: SF7/SF10 manual

2001-03-21 Thread dosk

Check out the Pentax USA Co.'s website. At their request-for-literature page
they have a 1-800 number to call and order manuals for almost all of their
cameras. They're only $4.00 ea, and they mail them out quickly.
Dosk



- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 1:17 AM
Subject: SF7/SF10 manual


> Where could I find an user manual (from web site or hardcopy) for
SF7/SF10?
>
> Frankie
>
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Re: darkroom pics

2001-03-21 Thread Doug Franklin

On Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:54:09 -0600 (CST), Chris Brogden wrote:

> On 20 Mar 2001, at 23:01, William Robb wrote:
> 
> > Anyone interested in a "special" gallery?
> > Call it "My Darkroom"?
> 
> Can I submit an entirely black photo?  :)

Mine would be a photo of an HP ScanJet 3300 with a bunch of papers
piled on top of it. :-)

TTYL, DougF

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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Doug Franklin

On Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:01:36 -0500, tom wrote:

> I use the numbering system someone else recommended - mmddyynn. I put

If you instead use YYMMDDNN then any software in the world can
accurately sort them by date (I'm assuming 'nn' is the roll number for
that day).

TTYL, DougF

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RE: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread Ken Archer

It's easy.  Friday night a Jewish wedding... Satuday a.m. Catholic
wedding...Saturday p.m. Protestant or Jewish wedding...Sunday  afternoon  who
knowsSunday night another who knows.  And that is the easy schedule.  Then
there is the last weekend in June when it really gets busy.  That  also includes
about 120-150 shots per wedding.

On Wed, 21 Mar 2001, you wrote:
> > All I can say is more power to you.  I shot about 700
> > weddings, etc., on the
> > New York/New Jersey society circuit during a
> > five-year period and they don't
> > make enough scotch and aspirin to get me to do another one ;-)
> >
> 
> Wow! 700 weddings in 5 years!  How did you do it?  500 would be
> a very full schedule for 5 years.

That is only two a week.  Two per day on the weekend was common and there was a
lot of mid-week affairs.  I was also a lot younger then ;-)

> 
> Len

-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
Powered by Linux ++ Mailed by Kmail


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Multiple Burst with AF500 FTZ

2001-03-21 Thread McRae, Max MS

Hi All,

Been exploring the multiple flash setting on the AF500 FTZ,
and wondered if anybody has any tips on this feature.

I'll be using mine with a Quantum Turbo Z and a flash 
meter to record just one of the multiple bursts to get the 
aperture setting.
(I'll quickly covered the flash head to prevent the light meter
receiving any more than just a single flash).

I intend to set the aperture one stop less than the meter
indicates to allow for the accumulative effect of the multiple
flashes when I'm shooting for real.

I have worked out a setting, (with the battery pack) that I can 
get 10 nicely spaced pulses at F5.6 at the distance I'll be 
working, over the time period I want to work within.

I intend to go to my local dance school and shoot the ballerinas
practising their routines in the hope I can capture some interesting
imagery.

Am I on the right track do you reckon?

Any advise gratefully accepted. 

Regards,

Max. 
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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Jon Hope

At 05:26 22/03/01, you wrote:

Hi all again.

Thanks for your suggestions. Everything sounds like a lot of work, but what 
isn't these days?

I think I'll catalogue them all along some of the lines mentioned. I 
usually use a roll of film on one subject type, so cataloguing them like 
that isn't going to be too arduous. Knowing me, I'll probably end up with 
twice as many drawers as I have now and a half finished database in a 
year's time. hehe

I too don't throw away photographs I don't consider to be keepers, mainly 
because others that view them find some that I don't like very worthwhile. 
There is no accounting for some people's taste. :-)

Cheers


Jon

Relax! Take life as it comes, you can't chase the sun, you can't race the wind

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FS: Lenses

2001-03-21 Thread William Kane

Hey guys,

   Well, the sale continues . . . Still a bit short on cash, so here are
two more lenses I'm selling from my 'collection':  (I still have quite a
bit of stuff left from the last time I posted)

1.  TAKUMAR-A ZOOM 1:3.5~4.5 28~80mm.  K-mount lens.  58mm front
element.  Comes with a Tamron 58mm front cap and a snap on rear cap
(obviously neither are original caps).  Also comes with a TIFFEN 58mm UV
protector.  I see no marks on the front element of the lens.  There is
one small (dust sized) piece of paint missing off the front of the
filter ring.  I see no marks on the rear element of the lens.  No
fungus.  Diaphram opens and closes smoothly, A fuction works fine.  This
is a two touch zoom lens with a MACRO mode at 80mm.  I've never seen one
of these before on eBay, but that probably just means that it's as rare
as the 40mm pancake ;-)
Asking $65 + shipping.

2.  Vivitar 24mm f2.8.  M42 screw mount lens.  Front and rear elements
are clean and clear.  No fungus.  Comes in original box.  Diaphram opens
and closes smoothly.  Selling because I picked up a k-mount zoom that
has 24mm on it.  I only used this lens to shoot with about 4 or 5
times.  I have a pic of this lens, so ask me to scan it if you want.
Asking $50 + shipping.
Add $10 for a "M42-PENTAX K/M  JAPAN" adapter.

Shipping in U.S. and Canada should be $5 . . . overseas and
international to pay estimated cost.
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Re: Wide-angle outdoor zooms (20 or 24 to 48 or 50mm): Which to get?

2001-03-21 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Paul,

Well, I'm sure you've opened a can of worms here, what with all
those on the list who frequently shoot with zooms, and those
relatively few of us who are more addicted to primes.  Let's look at
this from several perspectives:

> I find that when I'm exercise-walking or
> pleasure-walking with a single lens, I am 
> overcome by "prime" anxiety: "What if this 
> focal length won't do justice to the subject 
> I wish to shoot, or won't allow me to shoot 
> it from the desired perspective?"

Regardless of what lens you're carrying you will never be able to
have the ideal lens for every - or perhaps even most - situations
you want to photograph, even if you're carrying a Sigma 50~500
zoom.  While zooms are nice, they'll be slower and heavier than a
prime that fits within the range of a particular zoom. Of course,
you know what the tradeoffs are, so I needn't drone on.  I think,
though, that once you recognize that you'll never catch every shot,
the choice comes down to how comfortable you are with, and how fast
you can shoot, a particular lens.  Perhaps even that's not a problem
if you're shooting something that'll just wait for you, but often on
those walkarounds, things happen quickly, and sometimes what you
want to capture is quite fleeting.

I prefer a prime or two because I know that I can work fast with it
- sometimes very fast, without even bothering to worry about
focusing or aperture, and sometimes without even getting the camera
right up to my eye.  A true grab shot. I am willing to forgo getting
"everything" with the idea that what I do catch will be something
special.  Of course, this is just me - zooms are too slow to capture
much of what I shoot.

That said:

> seriously thinking
> about acquiring a wide-angle zoom.

OK, now that you know my position on zooms in general, let's get
specific.  I just happen to have the Pentax M24~35/3.5 and the
A24~50.  Of the two I most prefer the 24~35 - in fact, I actually
like it.  It's easier and faster to use, lighter, accepts better
quality lens hoods, and, as far as I'm concerned, is a sharper lens
- the images are far better than those of the 24~50.

While the 24~50 seems like a great focal range - and it is - I think
the heavier, bigger, softer lens that it is puts it in a definite
place well behind the 24~35.  Truth is, I've only used the lens a
half-dozen times or so since I bought it new, that' how much I
dislike it, while I've used the 24~35 just about as much over a
much, much shorter period.  Also, lens hoods for that baby are
difficult to come by, and flare can be a big issue compared to the
more agile 24~35.  If you're primarily a prime shooter, the 24~35
will probably be more comfortable for you.

Using the 24~35 with a fast fifty in your pocket certainly seems the
way to go when considering these two lenses.

I can't speak for the other lenses except that with but one
exception thus far - the 43mm Ltd - the focusing feel of an AF lens,
even when used manually - seems to be atrocious.  Yeah, there will
be a lot of zoom guys and AF guys telling you that it's not bad, but
for a guy like you, who is a lot like me based on our emails, you
probably won't like the way the lens feels.

I won't address the non Pentax lenses as my experience with them is
virtually nil.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: How to use a K (NOT KA) lens in the PZ-1P

2001-03-21 Thread Alexandre A. P. Suaide

Thanks,

I thought the link was electronic, not mechanic.

Alex

"Peifer, William [OCDUS]" wrote:
> 
> Hi Alex,
> 
> The K lenses -- just like the A, F, & FA -- have a mechanical linkage in the(...)
>
> Bill Peifer
> Rochester, NY

-- 
---
Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.   mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Physics Department
University of Sao Paulo - BrazilPhone: 1-313-577-5419
Wayne State University - MI -USAICQ number: 78139605
---
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Re: How to use a K (NOT KA) lens in the PZ-1P

2001-03-21 Thread Todd Stanley


It's easy to use K lenses on a PZ-1p.  Due to a mechanical linkage, the
camera will know where the aperture ring is set, so you don't have to use
stop down metering.  It will meter wide open and stop the lens down
automatically just like the A, F and FA lenses.  What you will lose is
matrix metering, aperture display in the viewfinder, and you will have to
use the aperture ring to set the aperture, you can't set it from the body.
You'll also lose exposure modes where the aperture ring has to be set to A
(program, shutter priority).

Hope this helps,
Todd

At 03:27 PM 3/21/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I have only KA lenses and I was thinking to buy one K lens but
>first I would like to know how it works on the PZ-1P. Let me explain
>better. the KA lenses works wide open because the electronic contacts
>tell the camera which aperture was set in the lens. I don't need to close
>the diaphragm to meter the light. for K lenses, do I need to close the
>diaphragm (press DOF button) while adjusting the shutter speed to have
>the correct exposure?
>
>Alex
>-- 
>---
>Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.   mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Physics Department
>University of Sao Paulo - BrazilPhone: 1-313-577-5419
>Wayne State University - MI -USAICQ number: 78139605
>---
>-

>
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RE: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread Len Paris



> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Ken Archer
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 12:38 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Wedding ... GASP !!!
>
>
> All I can say is more power to you.  I shot about 700
> weddings, etc., on the
> New York/New Jersey society circuit during a
> five-year period and they don't
> make enough scotch and aspirin to get me to do another one ;-)
>

Wow! 700 weddings in 5 years!  How did you do it?  500 would be
a very full schedule for 5 years.

Len
---

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Recall:WTB:Right-angle finder A

2001-03-21 Thread Robertson, Alastair

Hi

I didn't really mean to recall my message - I sent it twice and wanted to
recall one copy.  Thanks to Michael for giving me prices - these things
aren't cheap.  Thinking about it some more, I realised that seeing the LCD
is not so important on the superprogram as there is a LCD panel on top of
the body which gives you the shutter speed and you can read the aperture off
the lens.  I can't imaging using this finder in program mode.  This means
that according to Boz's site, any of the refconverters would do - even the
old one though this apparently reverses the image.  The newer refconverters
include a magnifier which would be nice but not essential for what I want
which is to be able to use the camera near ground level in a horizontal
position and for use with a camera on a focussing rail for extreme macro
work.

So, anybody with any spare refconverter that could sell me one?  

Alastair


Dr Alastair W. Robertson, Senior Lecturer
Ecology, Institute of Natural Resources
Massey University, Private Bag 11222
Palmerston North, NEW ZEALAND
Tel +64 6 350 5799 ext 7965 Fax +64 6 350 5623
Mobile +64 21 416 020   email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.massey.ac.nz/~ARoberts/
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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread Paul . Stregevsky

William,

Are you forgetting the 135/2.8A?

---
William Robb wrote:

The M85mm f2 is one of the mor maligned lenses on the list. I
>have heard more bad about this lens than most any of the primes.


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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Re: Wide-angle outdoor zooms (20 or 24 to 48 or 50mm): Which to get?

2001-03-21 Thread tom

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> I should point out that I own no truly nice lens wider thatn 24mm (except
> for my Zenitar fisheye), so if any of the 20-xx zooms are great at the 20mm
> end, perhaps I could sratch a Pentax 20/2.8A or 18/3.5 SMC off my wish
> list. (Uh-huh.)
> 
> While the 24-35 seems more "limited," it also gives me an excuse to carry a
> fast 50 or 55 in case I unexpectedly go indoors.
> 
> Suggestions?

Well, I can't say anything about any of those lenses except the FA
20-35/4. I really love mine. It's light, reasonably compact, and sharp.
It doesn't have the build quality or MF feel of M or A lenses (or even
FA primes), but I've trekked hundreds of miles with mine stuffed into
the top of my pack.

All the wide angle shots here were taken with that lens mounted on a
program plus:

http://bigdayphoto.com/tom/co_thumbs.html

The one drawback to this lens is that there might be a QC issue. Someone
on the list went through 3 of them before he got one that performed
well. I, otoh, got one that was fine on the first try. I regularly make
11x14's from mine.

tv
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Re: How to use a K (NOT KA) lens in the PZ-1P

2001-03-21 Thread Tiger Moses

it will meter wide open
it just wont CHANGE the aperature for you,
you have to do that manual in all functions!

At 03:27 PM 3/21/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I have only KA lenses and I was thinking to buy one K lens but
>first I would like to know how it works on the PZ-1P. Let me explain
>better. the KA lenses works wide open because the electronic contacts
>tell the camera which aperture was set in the lens. I don't need to close
>the diaphragm to meter the light. for K lenses, do I need to close the
>diaphragm (press DOF button) while adjusting the shutter speed to have
>the correct exposure?
>
>Alex
>-- 
>---
>Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.   mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Physics Department
>University of Sao Paulo - BrazilPhone: 1-313-577-5419
>Wayne State University - MI -USAICQ number: 78139605
>---
>-
>This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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FS: Pacific Image PrimeFilm 1800u Scanner

2001-03-21 Thread aimcompute

Hi all,

Six months after moving I got my desktop system set up again and can now use
my Minolta scanner.

While on a travel assignment I had purchased a Pacific Image PrimeFilm 1800u
scanner to use with my laptop, which I am now willing to part with.  It is a
little less than a year old.  It connects via USB.

Specs are at: http://www.scanace.com/pro_pf1800-index.shtm   The model I
have is the white one.

I have to say that I am not overly impressed with this scanner though some
on the list have used it and been happy with the results.  It may be that I
just didn't have the time to perfect my usage.

As far as I know, it works as intended.  I have noticed the following things
which bother me, but I can't tell if they're normal, abnormal, in some cases
whether it's software or hardware, or just what you get with a $199 film
scanner.

1) When the scan head is doing it's thing, the noises are sometimes soft,
sometimes loud.  It may just be the scan head vibrating the rest of the
plastic case.
2) Sometimes the scan I get is posterized.  If it happens twice in a row, I
turn the scanner off and back on and the resulting scan is as expected.
3) The scanning software preview window sometimes does not refresh it self
properly.  This is either a problem with the software itself or a
software/laptop compatibility problem.
4) There is one slide I have that it consistently interprets a portion of
the slide incorrectly.  It is an orange-hued door on the side of a boat
where the whole frame is coppery-orange from the setting sun.  For some
reason the scanner interprets the door only as grayish-blue.  It is only
this one slide out of 50+ images that causes this kind of problem.

There is a software update for the scanner which I have never installed.
I'm sure I've scanned less than 100 images.

The following PUG submissions were made with this scanner:

http://pug.komkon.org/01mar/earthrec.html
http://pug.komkon.org/01jan/RedSkyatDawn.html
http://pug.komkon.org/00dece/MORESC.html
http://pug.komkon.org/00octo/Highlands.html


I paid 199 USD + shipping.  I don't expect to get that much for it of
course.  I have original box, packing, manual, software, AC Adapter. If
anyone is interested, please contact me off list.

Tom C.







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Wide-angle outdoor zooms (20 or 24 to 48 or 50mm): Which to get?

2001-03-21 Thread Paul . Stregevsky
Since I fancy myself an available-light shooter, naturally my lens arsenal
consists almost entirely of fast primes. I own but one zoom: the Pentax
70-210A f/4. But increasingly I find that when I'm exercise-walking or
pleasure-walking with a single lens, I am overcome by "prime" anxiety:
"What if this focal length won't do justice to the subject I wish to shoot,
or won't allow me to shoot it from the desired perspective?"

Two user comments got me wishing for a wide-angle zoom:

>From the Nikon discussion list:

"I would suggest a 24-50mm f3.3-f4.5 (instead of a selection of wide
primes) as my travel lens, as I have not seen a better 'utility infielder'
than this lens. I keep the 24-50mm on one body as my 'normal' lens, and the
other body wears the 105mm f2.5 most of the time, with a quick switch to a
Tokina 70-210 when circumstances dictate. I find though, that I use the
telephoto lenses less often that I did in my 'salad days', and use the
'short-wide' more often. I wish I had the 24-50mm Nikkor when I was
shooting for the paper. The flexibility of that lens for photojournalism is
enormous."

John Mustarde, from the Pentax discussion list:

"I am very happy with the 24-50[A]. It is sharp and colorful at f/8. The
best shots were of people: It$B!G(Bs easy to get close to the subject and crop
with zoom for a nice candid portraits. This lens seems to want a permanent
spot on my camera. It$B!G(Bs s nice to have 24, 28, 35, and 50mm all rolled
into one. Size and wide angle leaves my 28-105 in the dust"

These two comments, more than any others, have got me seriously thinking
about acquiring a wide-angle zoom.

For the record, my bodies are all manual-focus--two Super Programs, and
perhaps soon an MZ-M.

As I see it, the candidates are as follows:

Pentax 24-35M f/3.5 (one of which is currently available for $230)

Pentax 24-50A f/4

Pentax 20-50F f/4

Pentax 20-35FA f/4, used (ouch! the price!)

Ricoh 24-48 f/2.8

Vivitar Series 1 24-48 f/3.8 (the earlier model--the version preferred by a
Series 1 enthusiast on our list)

Vivitar Series 1 24-48 f/3.5 (the later model)

Tamron and Tokina make interesting models that begin at 20mm: The Tarmon is
a 20-40, f/2.7-3.5; the Tokina, a 20-35 f/3.5-4.5. But with a 77mm filter
size, neither is the lightweight companion I'm after. And I'm not
interested in a Sigma.

I should point out that I own no truly nice lens wider thatn 24mm (except
for my Zenitar fisheye), so if any of the 20-xx zooms are great at the 20mm
end, perhaps I could sratch a Pentax 20/2.8A or 18/3.5 SMC off my wish
list. (Uh-huh.)

While the 24-35 seems more "limited," it also gives me an excuse to carry a
fast 50 or 55 in case I unexpectedly go indoors.

Suggestions?

Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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RE: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi all
I like mine, I'll use it until I get a FA 1.4 (which BTW is not on top op my
"list of Pentax dreams" - (the MZ-S and the 3.5/15mm is).
I think the right price should be aprox. 200$
Best Regards
Jens
 meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]På; vegne af Douglas E Harmon
Sendt: 21. marts 2001 12:59
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??


Thanks William and Arnold,
What you are trying to say is that this is lens is the "not as pretty
sister" that you don't mind people seeing you with and is nice to talk
to I put a bid in on the one on e-Bay, so we'll see how it goes. I think
the BIN price of $275 is to high. What do you all think?

l8r,
Douglas E Harmon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/~genius91/


From: William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
: The M85mm f2 is one of the mor maligned lenses on the list. I
: have heard more bad about this lens than most any of the primes.
: Personally, I don't think it deserves the rap. It is a pretty
: solid little picture maker. Ideal for portraiture. It is
: definitely not in the same legue as the 77, but it is a nice
: little lens. I always enjoy using it, and am pretty happy with
: what it does for me. I haven't used it outside the studio much,
: so I don't know how it does in general use.
: Hope that wasn't too vague, but it's bed time.
: William Robb
:
From: Arnold Stark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
:
: The lens has rather low resolution not only wide open but also when
: stopped down. All other Pentax 85mm lenses are superior in that respect.
: Maybe ALL other SMC Pentax primes offer better resolution.With just 5
: spherical elements one probably cannot construct a fast lenswith  very
: high resolution. However, high resolution is not necessarily what you
: really want in a portrait lens. I did some very nice and natural
: portraits with this lens. Nicely blurred background. Beautiful colours.
: The M85/f2 is almost as small as a normal  lens, so one can easily take
: it everywhere without intimidating the peolpe you want to portrait, and
: mechanically it is really wonderful. I should not have sold mine. But of
: course the FA77/f1.8 is still a greater joy...


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Re: ZX-30 Questions

2001-03-21 Thread John Francis

T Caleb Fauver wrote:
> 
> This will be my first email to the group, and I did troll for a few
> weeks to make sure I wouldn't ask any especially dumb questions.
> However, I didn't find what I was looking for and now I have a couple
> questions.

Welcome aboard!

> In the archives someone refered to the ZX-30 as crippled.  What
> exactally does this mean?  How is the camera crippled?  Does this refer
> to the fact that only certain lenses can be used with this model?

Yes, basically.  Nothing earlier than an 'A' series lens.
Yhis means you can't use many of the excellent early K-mount
lenses with your camera.   The predecessor model, the ZX-50,
had problems with these lenses, too - it couldn't meter
properly with such a lens mounted unless the lens was at full
aperture.   But at least, with the ZX-50, a knowledgable
photographer could compensate for this failing.   With the
ZX-30 you don't even get that option - the camera refuses
to trip the shutter if an old pre-'A' lens is mounted.

> I was very excited when I got the camera, and very disappointed when I
> read the comment from this list I alluded to above.  I am hoping someone
> can provide some more light on this.

It's a perfectly reasonable camera, apart from that one limitation.

> I am confused about what lenses I can use.  I have a 28mm-80mm zoom
> lense now that works fine.  But the manual for the camera is not very
> clear (to me) what other lenses I can use.  Can I use any A, F, or FA
> lense as long as it has the 'A' setting on the lense?

Yes - that's exactly right.
That gives you quite a bit of choice - just about anything made
to fit Pentax cameras since 1983.

-- 
John Francis  [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Silicon Graphics, Inc.
(650)933-82952011 N. Shoreline Blvd. MS 43U-991
(650)932-0828 (Fax)  Mountain View, CA   94043-1389
Hello.   My name is Darth Vader.   I am your father.   Prepare to die.
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RE: ZX-30 Questions

2001-03-21 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

Caleb Fauver wrote:
>Can I use any A, F, or FA lense as long as it has the 'A' setting
>on the lense?

Yes, as long as it has the A setting.  What you won't be able to use are the
plain old K lens -- the ones with no electrical contacts.  (Note that this
restriction also includes those lenses labeled "PENTAX-M" on the front lens
ring.  These are also the plain ordinary K-mount, and they do not have an A
setting on the aperture ring.)  The ZX-30 will not let you fire the shutter
if you mount one of these K lenses.  Hope this helps.

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY

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RE: How to use a K (NOT KA) lens in the PZ-1P

2001-03-21 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

Alex wrote:
>For K lenses, do I need to close the diaphragm (press DOF
>button) while adjusting the shutter speed to have the correct
>exposure?

Hi Alex,

The K lenses -- just like the A, F, & FA -- have a mechanical linkage in the
mount which tells the camera body where the aperture ring is set.  Your
PZ-1p body will use open-aperture metering with a K lens, but because of
this mechanical linkage, the body will be able to tell where you've set the
lens aperture ring, and it will be able to adjust the meter reading
accordingly.  When you depress the shutter, the body will stop the the
aperture for you.  You don't need to depress the DOF button when metering.
Hope this helps.

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY

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Re: How to use a K (NOT KA) lens in the PZ-1P

2001-03-21 Thread John Francis

"Alexandre A. P. Suaide" wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have only KA lenses and I was thinking to buy one K lens but
> first I would like to know how it works on the PZ-1P. Let me explain
> better. the KA lenses works wide open because the electronic contacts
> tell the camera which aperture was set in the lens. I don't need to close
> the diaphragm to meter the light. for K lenses, do I need to close the
> diaphragm (press DOF button) while adjusting the shutter speed to have
> the correct exposure?

You've got a fundamental misunderstanding here.  K lenses, just like
KA lenses, meter wide open because a mechanical linkage tells the
camera body how much the lens has been stopped down (and thus how
much less light will be entering the camera at the taking aperture).

Let's consider an example:
The exposure metering system doesn't need to know whether the lens
is an f5.6 lens that will be stopping down to f11, or an f1.4 lens
that will stop down to f2.8 - all it needs to know is that the final
exposure will be made with only one quarter of the light currently
falling on the metering sensors.

The electronic contacts tell the body what the maximum aperture is,
which is useful for viewfinder display of the aperture.  But most
Pentax cameras use the mechanical linkage between the lens and the
body to control the metering circuits.  The electronic contacts
aren't needed, in general, for exposure metering.
The exception is the two bodies (the MZ-50, and the MZ-30) which
don't use the mechanical link.  That's why these bodies don't work
with pre-"A"-series lenses.

Refer to Boz's K-mount page for more details on all this stuff.


-- 
John Francis  [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Silicon Graphics, Inc.
(650)933-82952011 N. Shoreline Blvd. MS 43U-991
(650)932-0828 (Fax)  Mountain View, CA   94043-1389
Hello.   My name is Darth Vader.   I am your father.   Prepare to die.
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RE: Vuescan

2001-03-21 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

Bingo! Thank you very much Len!

Frits
> Do you have a hosts file on your computer?  If you do, you may
> need to update it or temporarily rename the file to something
> else and then try www.hamrick.com again.
> 
> Len
> ---
> > When I want to goto http://www.hamrick.com I get
> > redirected immediately to
> > http://home.verio.com/index.cfm?rd=best
> >
> > Why? Anyone knows?
> >
> > Frits
> >

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Re: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread tom

Bill Owens wrote:
> 
> It'll be the 500FTZ
> on a Stroboframe with the PZ-1p at -1.5 flash comp and the old ProMaster on
> the ZX-5n for the wife, probably both with Lumiquest diffusers.  BTW, should
> I even use flash comp with the lumiquest ?

Yes, it's TTL, the camera doesn't care if it's diffused.

Only set the flash comp if you've got enough ambient light, otherwise
you'll just underexpose. Drag your shutter to pick up whatever ambient
light you can.

tv
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24-90

2001-03-21 Thread Raimo Korhonen

Hi all!
One short film shot with the new 3.5-4.5/24-90 Pentax. It was just a short ISO 400 
Fujicolor and smallish prints but the results look good. Just one negative point: when 
using the built-in flash the lens casts a strong shadow at the bottom of the image at 
focal lengths shorter than 50 mm even when not using the supplied hood.
I getting to like this lens!
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen



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ZX-30 Questions

2001-03-21 Thread T Caleb Fauver

Hello all,

This will be my first email to the group, and I did troll for a few
weeks to make sure I wouldn't ask any especially dumb questions.
However, I didn't find what I was looking for and now I have a couple
questions.

In the archives someone refered to the ZX-30 as crippled.  What
exactally does this mean?  How is the camera crippled?  Does this refer
to the fact that only certain lenses can be used with this model?

I having a budding interest in photography and a kind family member
offered to help me purchase a SLR.  (I am very poor right now).  I told
them I wanted an all manual camera - the better to learn with - but they
convinced me to get one that does both.  I did not specify a specific
model.  I probably should have researched this more.

I was very excited when I got the camera, and very disappointed when I
read the comment from this list I alluded to above.  I am hoping someone
can provide some more light on this.

I am confused about what lenses I can use.  I have a 28mm-80mm zoom
lense now that works fine.  But the manual for the camera is not very
clear (to me) what other lenses I can use.  Can I use any A, F, or FA
lense as long as it has the 'A' setting on the lense?

Any and all help would be appreciated.

Caleb


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How to use a K (NOT KA) lens in the PZ-1P

2001-03-21 Thread Alexandre A. P. Suaide

Hello,

I have only KA lenses and I was thinking to buy one K lens but
first I would like to know how it works on the PZ-1P. Let me explain
better. the KA lenses works wide open because the electronic contacts
tell the camera which aperture was set in the lens. I don't need to close
the diaphragm to meter the light. for K lenses, do I need to close the
diaphragm (press DOF button) while adjusting the shutter speed to have
the correct exposure?

Alex
-- 
---
Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.   mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Physics Department
University of Sao Paulo - BrazilPhone: 1-313-577-5419
Wayne State University - MI -USAICQ number: 78139605
---
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Vs: 24-90

2001-03-21 Thread Raimo Korhonen

You might be right - the frontmost tube sounds like metal when tapping it (but it is 
not thick) and the filter threads may indeed be metal. Hard to tell without 
scratching, which I´m not prepared to do.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Pål Jensen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Päivä: 21. maaliskuuta 2001 1:55
Aihe: RE: 24-90


>Raimo wrote:
>
>
>I just got my hands on the new SMC Pentax-FA 3.5-4.5 24-90 IF & AL. Looks quite good. 
>Externally the mode of construction is similar to the current way of doing these 
>things which means internal focusing (front lens does not rotate), no window over 
>focusing scale and all plastic (except the lens mount, and glass). 
>
>
>REPLY:
>
>Are you sure it uses plastic lens barrels? I'm sure the outer cover is plastic, 
>however, it seems like from the pictures of the lens that the front tube is quite 
>thick and look like the metal barrels Pentax is using. Even the 17-28 Fish-eye zoom 
>uses metal barrels. I have to say that any lens that has plastic filter threads is 
>off my shopping list. Too bad
>
>Pål
>


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RE: Recommendations for printing wanted

2001-03-21 Thread Tiger Moses

At 12:00 PM 3/21/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Unless you have some reason for the extra expense of Ilfochrome prints the
>new digital are excellent.  My lab uses the Fuji Frontier and I am delighted
>with the results. Even under a loupe they are really good. Like the one
>described below size is limited to 12x18, but the quality and convenience
>are excellent.  I talked to another lab yesterday and their Frontier 8x10
>prints are $6.50 USD, I have been paying $8.20 USD.  Think I'll giv'em a
>try.
>
>Jerry in Houston

who & where?

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RE: Self enabled a F 100 2.8 Macro

2001-03-21 Thread Todd Stanley

At 11:14 PM 3/20/01 -0600, you wrote:
>Well, I have received the F 100 2.8 macro and am enjoying it's
capabilities.  I have a question, though  There is a ring screwed into the
filter threads.  The ring an external groove around it like something
attaches to it.  The ring has no threads to attach a filter to.
>
>-Original Message-
>From:  Kevin Thornsberry [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>Sent:  Sunday, March 18, 2001 10:31 PM
>To:'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
>Subject:   RE: Self enabled a F 100 2.8 Macro
>
>OK Todd et. al.,  here it is.  I welcome all feedback and recommendations.
>
>1)  FA 24/2.0 or FA 20/2.8 or FA 20-35/4 - Autofocus not mandatory but
desired

Those ore really 3 different lenses, the 24mm and 20mm are more different
than what you might think.  And the third is a zoom.  I would lean towards
the 24mm, unless you have a 28mm then maybe the 20mm because it's more
different.  Or the zoom is you don't think you'll need the speed of the
24mm or 20mm.  

>
>2)  FA 50/1.7 - Already have this one.

No 50mm F1.4?  Shame on you :)

>
>3)  F or FA Macro 100/2.8 - F model to arrive in a couple of days.

Nice lens I hear.

>
>4)  FA* 80-200/2.8 - This is one I really want but rarely turns up used.
(probably because it is a good lens to have)  I haven't checked third party
options on this one but may to save a few .

That's an expensive lens, but very good.  You could get a slower lens and
save some money for other Pentax items.  I don't know anything about 3rd
party competitors for superfast telezooms.

>
>5)  A* 300/2.8 - Sure I'd like to have the FA* but it's way out of my
league price wise.  I've noticed some third party manufacturers have higher
photodo scores so I could go that way.

A* glass, can't go wrong with that :)

>
>6) A really good set of TCs (1.4x and 2.0x) - Either the short Pentax or
one of the 7 element thirdparty jobs.  Maintaining AF would be nice but not
mandatory.  Still need to do some research in this area or get some advice
from the PDML.

I don't know a thing about TC's, except that cheap Tempo branded ones STINK.

>
>7)  Two of the following bodies depending on my ultimate preference.
ZX-5n (Already have), PZ-1p or MZ-S (if I can get my hands on one to
evaluate).
>

You need a LX too, right Aaron?  

>To help fund the above I recently sold an Albinar 80-200, have a P-3n on
ebay right now, and will probably be selling a Tamron 35-135/3.5-4.5, a
beseler 67cp enlarger with wet side equipment and maybe (bite my tongue)
the K-1000 I started with (don't hold your breath, I love the "click").

I would not sell the K1000, the money you would probably get (~$120) isn't
going to get you very far towards a lens like the FA* 80-200 F2.8.  Ditto
on the Tamron, the Albinar is a decent lens though.

>
>I'm not sufficiently enabled to go out right now and try to get all of
these and the longer I take the more chance I have to change my mind and
improve my plan but this is how it stands now.  At least I have a plan
(thanks to reading lots of PDML posts) and now I can bargain hunt for good
used equipment at minimum prices.

OK, just keep in mind that if you are not sure you should buy a peice of
Pentax equipment, we are more than happy to enable you to the point where
you'll buy two :)

Todd

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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread Todd Stanley


It's not that it's a bad lens, but it has to compete with such Pentax gems
as the SMC Tak 85mm F1.8, SMC 85mm F1.8, A* 85mm F1.4, FA* 85mm F1.4, and
77mm Limited.  And that's a pretty tough pack of lenses to compete with...

Todd


>> Hey all,
>> I checked BOA's site on this, but was wondering what the
>general
>> consensus was on the M-85mm F2.0. Any comments
>appreciated.
>
>The M85mm f2 is one of the mor maligned lenses on the list. I
>have heard more bad about this lens than most any of the primes.
>Personally, I don't think it deserves the rap. It is a pretty
>solid little picture maker. Ideal for portraiture. It is
>definitely not in the same legue as the 77, but it is a nice
>little lens. I always enjoy using it, and am pretty happy with
>what it does for me. I haven't used it outside the studio much,
>so I don't know how it does in general use.
>Hope that wasn't too vague, but it's bed time.
>William Robb
>
>

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Re: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread Bill Owens

I'm not insane enough (yet) to shoot an actual wedding.  This is a wedding
of a very dear friend and they've asked us to do informal shots of the
reception.  This will be our wedding gift to the  happy couple.  All they
want is 4x6 minilab prints for a small album, but I will keep the negatives
in case they want enlargements at a later date.

Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


> All I can say is more power to you.  I shot about 700 weddings, etc., on
the
> New York/New Jersey society circuit during a five-year period and they
don't
> make enough scotch and aspirin to get me to do another one ;-)



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Re: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread Ken Archer

All I can say is more power to you.  I shot about 700 weddings, etc., on the
New York/New Jersey society circuit during a five-year period and they don't
make enough scotch and aspirin to get me to do another one ;-)


> At 10:41 PM 3/20/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> >I've just been informed by the war department that I am to photograph the
> >reception at a wedding on April 7.  My plan is to give her the ZX-5n with a
> >24-50 zoom while I use the PZ-1p with the FA 28-105 and 500FTZ flash, both
> >loaded with Portra 400.  Any suggestions/hints would be  greatly
> >appreciated.
> >Bill, KG4LOV
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
Powered by Linux ++ Mailed by Kmail


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Right Angle Finder for ZX-5n (was RE: Right-angle finder A)

2001-03-21 Thread Paul . Stregevsky

Kevin,

The Olympus Mailing List discussion archives can be found at
http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/archives/.

--

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 23:17:55 -0600
From: Kevin Thornsberry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Right Angle Finder for ZX-5n  (was RE: Right-angle finder A)

I recall someone recently saying there is an Olympus right angle finder
that will work on a ZX-5n.  Can anyone verify my memory on this and maybe
even give me a model or part number.



Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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Re: Vivitar Series 1 55/1.2K (Yes, you read right): Need pricing advice

2001-03-21 Thread Ken Archer

The real irony is that when the Vivitar Series 1's first came out they were too
expensive and didn't sell all that well.  Now, you can pick one up in mint
condition like I did recently for $125.  Mark, does yours take a 62 or 67mm
filter?

  On Tue, 20 Mar 2001, you wrote:
> 
> Ironically, I just bought a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 last weekend at a 
> local store. Test shots look pretty good, and the 1:2 macro focusing is 
> fantastic!
> - - - - - - - - - -
> Mark Cassino
> Kalamazoo, MI
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
Powered by Linux ++ Mailed by Kmail


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RE: Recommendations for printing wanted

2001-03-21 Thread Lewis, Gerald

Unless you have some reason for the extra expense of Ilfochrome prints the
new digital are excellent.  My lab uses the Fuji Frontier and I am delighted
with the results. Even under a loupe they are really good. Like the one
described below size is limited to 12x18, but the quality and convenience
are excellent.  I talked to another lab yesterday and their Frontier 8x10
prints are $6.50 USD, I have been paying $8.20 USD.  Think I'll giv'em a
try.

Jerry in Houston

-Original Message-
From: Mark Roberts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 3:27 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Recommendations for printing wanted


The place I normally use has the Noritsu/Kodak Digital Light
System (at least I think that's what it's called). It produces
amazingly good prints from slides and I'm delighted with their
service. They just don't yet have the capability of printing any
larger than 12 x 18 at this time.


"Andy Harbin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>I've also been looking into prints from slides (35mm), but it seems that
>most places just do it digitally.  Is this how everyone gets their
>slides printed?  I know about Ilfochrome (not available locally AFAIK),
>but are there other processes?  I absolutely love the extra colour that
>I get from slide film, but it seems to be a hassle to get decent
>enlargements from it.  

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Re: Anyone using an Kodak RFS 3600 scanner?

2001-03-21 Thread Gerald Cermak

Ed replied that he is waiting on a promised loaner unit from someone.  He
expects to have RFS 3600 support in a month or so.  Sometimes I hate being
in the early adopter category.

Cheers,
Gerald

- Original Message -
From: "tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 12:59 AM
Subject: Re: Anyone using an Kodak RFS 3600 scanner?


> Email Ed, or support, or whatever...I think he's addded it, or is just
> about to.
>
> tv
>
> Gerald Cermak wrote:
> >
> > I just checked, vuescan doesn't list the any Kodak scanners as
supported.
> > :(
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 4:32 PM
> > Subject: Re: Anyone using an Kodak RFS 3600 scanner?
> >
> > > I think I remember a post on the filmscanners list saying the RFS3600
> > > had buggy software, and that Kodak had released a new version.
> > >
> > > I'd check Kodak's site. Also, Vuescan should have support for it soon
> > > (or now).
> > >
> > > tv
> > >
> > >
> > > "Juan J. Buhler" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On Sun, 18 Mar 2001, Gerald Cermak wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Even though I set the scan for 12-bits, I can only get a 8-bit per
> > color
> > > > > image from TWAIN.
> > > > >
> > > > > Does anyone know how to get a full 36 bits into a 48-bit tiff for
this
> > > > > scanner?
> > > >
> > > > Hi Gerald,
> > > >
> > > > I don't have an RFS3600, so I cannot answer your question. Being as
it
> > > > is a relatively new scanner, I would just make sure you're using the
> > > > latest version of the software. Even if you are, I wou;dn't discard
a
> > > > bug as the reason for your problem.
> > > >
> > > > I had ordered one of these from Adorama back in November. After
having
> > > > trouble getting consistent focusing from it (edges would be in
focus,
> > > > the center would be soft,) I returned it, and paid the difference
for
> > > > a Polaroid SS4000.
> > > >
> > > > j
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > -
> > > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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> > >
> >
> > -
> > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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> --
> Thomas Van Veen Photography
> Washington D.C.
> http://bigdayphoto.com/
> 301-758-3085
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RE: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Provencher, Paul M.

You could use the day you got the film processed as the number.  Easy
enough.  What you do with the rest of the data (or if you even use a number)
is the freedom you enjoy by doing it yourself!  

You could try to use the demo database that comes with Office 97
Professional Edition (Access Database) that comes ready to run for
cataloging photos too.  Of course it has it's "quirks" and might not be
industrial strength...

Paul M. Provencher
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RE: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Provencher, Paul M.

That's a good idea Doug.  It would give you one number that tells you more
about each frame.  I'd be hard pressed to remember which camera I shot which
picture with so I keep the other data separate from the number.  Just my
preference.  Plus the number gets pretty long as it is - need to use a
pretty small font to get it on a sticker that will fit a slide mount...

ppro



-Original Message-
From: Doug Brewer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 11:33 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs


This is a good numbering system, similar to the one I 
use. I'd like to suggest a small addition, which I have 
found to help me out. At the beginning of each 
string of numbers I have a letter indicating which 
camera I used. For my PZ-1p, the letter is Z, the LX 
gets X. 

Since I tend to shoot different types of photo with 
these two cameras, knowing the letter designation 
immediately narrows the search when I'm looking for a 
specific photo, and should any problems show up in the 
photos, I'll know which camera is at fault.

Doug "other organizational efforts are largely 
theoretical" Brewer



Quoting "Provencher, Paul M." 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


> There are a number of "systems" but the most important 
thing is that you do
> it on an ongoing basis.  That allows you to manage it 
in smaller chunks and
> to record the info at a time that you are more likely 
to remember it.
>
> Aside from storage and retrieval systems, which I 
think are best left to
> personal preference, I like to use a numbering system 
that I learned in a
> lab.  It is good because it encodes useful data, is 
scaleable, and easy to
> use.
>
> Basically start with the date noted as YYMMDD, then 
add on the roll number
> for that day in the format NN where NN is a two digit 
number using leading
> zeros, and finally the frame number, again in the NN 
format.  A typical
> number would look like this:
>
> 010321-01-05 - The fifth frame of the first roll shot 
on March 21, 2001.
> Since the number of digits should not change (if you 
routinely shoot more
> than 99 rolls of film or more than 99 frames on a roll 
you may want to add
> a
> digit to these components)
>
> Just by reading the number of the image, I can 
immediately determine when
> it
> was shot and which roll etc.
>
> ppro



Ashwood Lake Photography
http://www.alphoto.com
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Re: quality of sigma 170-500?

2001-03-21 Thread John Francis

Frank Wajer wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> has anyone tried the Sigma 170-500 zoom. How is it's quality compared
> to the fixed 300 f4 or 400 f5.6 Pentax lenses.
> I'm considering getting an ultra-telelens but I'm not sure what will be
> the most versatile focal length. 170-500 zoom would therefore be great.
> 
> Frank

I have no personal experience with this lens, but at one time I was
considering buying it.   All the reports I saw agreed that the lens
is no match for either of the fixed focal length lenses you mention.
As to the quality of this lens vs. the Sigma 135-400  -  most people
felt that the 135-400 is generally better over the 135-350 range
(although, of course, the 170-500 does considerably better beyond 400).

Stick with Pentax - buy a 250-600 :-)

-- 
John Francis  [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Silicon Graphics, Inc.
(650)933-82952011 N. Shoreline Blvd. MS 43U-991
(650)932-0828 (Fax)  Mountain View, CA   94043-1389
Hello.   My name is Darth Vader.   I am your father.   Prepare to die.
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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread IronWorks

I like it - but there is no way I could bring myself to throw any away.

Maris

- Original Message -
From: "Bojidar Dimitrov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Bojidar Dimitrov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs


| Recently Provencher, Paul M. wrote:
| >
| > Jon wrote> Is there a good system to utilise to catelogue and file my
| > photographs that anyone would care to recommend? <<
|
| ...
|
| > Basically start with the date noted as YYMMDD, then add on the roll
number
| > for that day in the format NN where NN is a two digit number using
leading
| > zeros, and finally the frame number, again in the NN format.  A typical
| > number would look like this:
| >
| > 010321-01-05 - The fifth frame of the first roll shot on March 21, 2001.
| > Since the number of digits should not change (if you routinely shoot
more
| > than 99 rolls of film or more than 99 frames on a roll you may want to
add a
| > digit to these components)
| >
| > Just by reading the number of the image, I can immediately determine
when it
| > was shot and which roll etc.
| >
|
| This would, of course, not work for those of us who do not manage to shoot
| an entire film on a single day.  But the system can be adjusted for that.
|
| I too have been thinking of developing a system, and my first take would
be
| something like this:
|
| - shoot slides,
| - when a new film is picked up from the developer:
|   - throw away all that are not at least very good,
|   - record a running number on each "keeper".  Let the numbers run
| continuously, regarless of topic/subject/occasion.  Continue
increasing
| the running numbers with the next film that you get developed.
|   - file the keepers in transparent slide pages.
| - for each "keeper" enter all vital info in a computer database.
|
| Things that might go in the DB are: slide number, image category or
| categories, date, film, lens, exposure info, etc.  The lens and film will
| be identified only by a single number that is a key in a table dedicated
to
| films and another one to lens details.
|
| In this way I can easily find out all images shot with lens #8 or on film
| type #3.  I can also get more fancy and find all images that were shot on
a
| particular date with a given lens but not with film type #3, etc.
|
| If I need to take these images out of their storage, I will have to pull
| images from various slide filing sheets, and will then need to file them
| back in.  Both of these operations are not a problem because the slides a
| numbered sequentially, and I know that there are 20 slides on a page.
|
| What do you all think?
|
| Cheers,
| Boz
|
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|

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RE: Radioactive batteries?? I don't think so

2001-03-21 Thread Provencher, Paul M.

So I guess the Chernobyl brand batteries in my Zenit should not be cause for
concern...? :-)

Paul M. Provencher


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RE: Vuescan

2001-03-21 Thread Paris, Leonard

If he fixes his hosts file, he won't have the problem.

Len
---

> -Original Message-
> From: herbet brasileiro [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 7:54 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Vuescan
> 
> 
> My browser does not get redirected. I'm using IE5
> though.
> Herbet.
> --- "Frits_J._Wüthrich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > When I want to goto http://www.hamrick.com I get
> > redirected immediately to
> > http://home.verio.com/index.cfm?rd=best
> > 
> > Why? Anyone knows?
> > 
> > Frits
> > 
> > -
> > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. 
> > To unsubscribe,
> > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions.
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> > 
> 
> 
> __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. 
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread Rfsindg

Because I like the lens, I've watched the prices.  I haven't seen any less than $240+. 
 I'd probably pay $275 for a 85/2 in like new condition.  It's a cheap alternative to 
the 77mm.

Regards,  Bob S.

>>I do think $275.00 is high for that lens (I presume that is US$). It seems to me 
>that is nearly half of the 77mm lens price, in which case I would spring for it 
>instead. I am finding that Pentax lens pricing has gone really wonky, though. If a 
>pancake is worth 200 US$, then the M85f2 is definitely worth $275.00. I just don't 
>think the M40mm f2,8 is worth mote than $12.50.
William Robb <<

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Follies

2001-03-21 Thread William Kane

Another ebay folly . . .

"50mm Pentax Asahi w/ accessories, Mint"

Take a look at the pics . . . the third pic shows the camera has one of
those hot shoe/viewfinder thingies that were made to go on spotmatics
without shoes . . . 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1223208404
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Re: Radioactive batteries?? I don't think so

2001-03-21 Thread Alexandre A. P. Suaide

Hello

The way I know radioactive batteries is made of Kr85. Kr85 is gaseous in nature, 
disperses quickly in case of an accident, and is chemically and biologically
inert due to the fact that it is a noble gas. The amount used in batteries makes it
an extremely safe radioisotope. The way the battery works is very simple. Kr85
decays in a 0.617 MeV beta particle in each decay and a 0.514 MeV gamma ray in
38 % of decays. The half life of Kr85 is 10.74 year, so the battery 
last a lot of time, maybe 15 years.

The Kr85 gas is enclosed in a photovoltaic cell. When a gamma ray is emitted,
it hits the photovoltaic cell and it is converted in electricity. The
photovoltaic is also enclosed in lead to be safer The energies of the
beta particle and gamma ray are low enough to stop in the lead. So, the
battery does not emit radiation. I don't now if this technology is in the market
because it is a relatively new research area. I've been heard a lot of it in
science community but it is the first time I heard it outside science. Maybe
you are talking about another type of battery. In this case, I think it is
not nuclear battery. 

We can't forget about smoke detectors. Most of them are radioactive.
They have a small alpha source inside. These alpha source emits
alpha particles (helium nuclei) with few MeV of energy. These particles
stop in two inches of air or in a thin paper page. They can't go trough
the detector plastic body. So, we are safe. For curiosity, the way smoke
detector works is simple. As alpha particles has electrical charge, there
is a current between the source and the alpha particle absorver. if there
is smoke, the air density between the absorver and source will change and
the current will drop, and the detector will beep. Simple, isn't it?

To be more afraid of the world we live, we can forget the sun neutrinos,
the radioactive potassium in cement, the cosmic rays. Guys, I am getting crazy,
everything is radioactive  just kidding


Alex

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > PS: Avoid buying any active optical system, they usually use Radioactive
> > decay batteries... might never have to change the battery ever but.. maybe
> > your life won't be as long.
> > Or be carefull and check these with Meters for radioactivity.
> 
> >Philippe, your remark about radioactive Russian optical systems, is it
> >serious, or you are only joking?
> >I have a Russian exposure meter (an Sverdlovsk-6) and I don't have a
> >Geiger radioactivity detector to check if it is radioactive or not.
> >It seems to use a common battery, but the curious thing is that this
> >battery is almost ten years old and it still works.
> 
> If any part of your camera equipment were seriously radioactive, your film
> would have told you that a long time ago. I think this is an, um, Red
> herring.
> JJ
> 


-- 
---
Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.   mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Physics Department
University of Sao Paulo - BrazilPhone: 1-313-577-5419
Wayne State University - MI -USAICQ number: 78139605
---
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Re: 400-600 F8-12 reflex?

2001-03-21 Thread rob



Hi,


I picked up one of these in the UK, I am very impressed


It weighs nothing compared to a 400mm lens.

The f8/12 is no problem focussing in normal daylight.
(MZ-5n & LX with grid screen)

Very pleased with sharpness of pictures shot on Kodachrome 200 with and
without tripod, the handhelds were shot faster than 1/250th on a nice day.

The fixed DOF is most noticable at close focussing distances, ie. have to
be careful to isolate subject from background via composition not DOF.

The lens very very close focus (see K-mount page!!)

I did not shot any shots with donuts in but you can see the effect
without wasting film, it is something you should be aware of.

Late last year I enquired on the list if someone could scan some example
shots for display on the "Lens Gallery" page, but I did not get around to
sorting it out.


Regards


Rob



Below are comments I found on the old archives when I looked last year,
some may have been direct replies when I asked on PDML then.


-
I Purchaced one of these litle marvels last year, I have 
found it to be a very sharp and handy lens 
Mine came with a full set of filters but no case and hood the filters are 
40.5 which is the size used on a lot of 
old rangefinder cameras so yellow, red orange ect. are no prob ND,s should 
be avaliable from pentax, I also use 67mm ND filters on the front of the 
lens sometimes as changing filters is a bit slow. It is a rare lens, less 
common than a 30mm or a 20mm wide, mine did'nt even make it to the shop 
shelf, I have a wanted list with a number of shops where I live here in 
sunny Adelaide Australia. 


-
I have one and have discovered that, with some care, it is quite sharp,
and, as you know, remarkably compact for that focal length.
You will find a spotmeter very helpful, since angle of incidence at
400-600 is so small. If you didn't notice, there is provision for
a 40.5mm filter on the rear of the lens. You can use a front filter
(I use a "protector", made by Pentax for something or other - possible
protecting!). Be sure to use the hood (67mm), or if it wasn't provided,
get as long a 67mm hood as you can find. You can probably use a 67mm
filter on the front if you can't get the 40.5mm filters. Pentax did
make a kit with a variety of SMC coated 40.5mm filters, but I havn't
been able to find it. Minolt and Tiffen still make some 40.5mm filters.
You will find that flare manifests itself in an interesting way;
internal reflections become concentric rings. That is what you would
expect. I personally think multicoated filters, if you can find them,
are especially useful in this lens.


-
The Pentax 400-600/8.0-12 reflex was available as recently as two
months ago new from Camera World of Oregon for $1400. About four
months ago I heard of a used one that sold to a dealer for about
$650-700.

Apparently this is a lens with substantial value. I don't have a
clue why it has such a value - I have never actually seen or used
one. Perhaps it is rare. Perhaps the market for it is a group of
people similar to those of us who are "Looking for a 135/1.8 - Any
Condition, Any Price"

Perhaps there is a niche market for a lens with this range and
size. Looking at the lens specs from the Pentax faq I notice the
400-600 zoom is only a little larger than the FA 28-105/f-5.6.

An interesting lens. You can even put a 2x convertor on it
(800-1200/f16-32+?). Anyone have any hands-on experience?


-
I've got one of these, and I'm pleased with it. Three things to be aware of;
**very** limited depth of field, out of focus highlights turn into donuts,
and you'll have a really hard time focusing with it if you've got the
split-image focusing screen (instead of a plain ground glass or a Beattie
screen).

Considering the focal length, it's not difficult to work with. I've got a
shoulder brace that I use with it, and I haven't had any camera shake
problems ( 1/500 shutter speed helps!!).


-
It's 8-12/400-600. It has many positive comments in books, but I know 
noone really owning it. Pentax offered extra bright tele screens for 
the use of f=8 teles on LX and MX. With such a screen this lens will 
work comfortable. Advantages are the small size, close-up focussing 
capacity and good correction (reflex constructions behave like the 
best apochromatic corrections). Drawbacks are the usual mirror lens 
drawbacks: donut-like unsharpness patterns and fixed aperture. There 
is the rumor, that f=8 or f=11 mirrors are easier to focus than 
normal lenses of the same speed. Maybe someone else knows more here. 
The reflex is a real alternative to the SMC-A 5.6/400, since the 
correction is better and if you switch to an autofocus camera, you 
will not have the feeling that you have missed to buy the lens in 
an AF version. Can be seen as a counterpart for the 17-28mm fisheye 
zoom.


-
All the Pentax reflex lenses are sti

RE: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Doug Brewer

This is a good numbering system, similar to the one I 
use. I'd like to suggest a small addition, which I have 
found to help me out. At the beginning of each 
string of numbers I have a letter indicating which 
camera I used. For my PZ-1p, the letter is Z, the LX 
gets X. 

Since I tend to shoot different types of photo with 
these two cameras, knowing the letter designation 
immediately narrows the search when I'm looking for a 
specific photo, and should any problems show up in the 
photos, I'll know which camera is at fault.

Doug "other organizational efforts are largely 
theoretical" Brewer



Quoting "Provencher, Paul M." 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


> There are a number of "systems" but the most important 
thing is that you do
> it on an ongoing basis.  That allows you to manage it 
in smaller chunks and
> to record the info at a time that you are more likely 
to remember it.
>
> Aside from storage and retrieval systems, which I 
think are best left to
> personal preference, I like to use a numbering system 
that I learned in a
> lab.  It is good because it encodes useful data, is 
scaleable, and easy to
> use.
>
> Basically start with the date noted as YYMMDD, then 
add on the roll number
> for that day in the format NN where NN is a two digit 
number using leading
> zeros, and finally the frame number, again in the NN 
format.  A typical
> number would look like this:
>
> 010321-01-05 - The fifth frame of the first roll shot 
on March 21, 2001.
> Since the number of digits should not change (if you 
routinely shoot more
> than 99 rolls of film or more than 99 frames on a roll 
you may want to add
> a
> digit to these components)
>
> Just by reading the number of the image, I can 
immediately determine when
> it
> was shot and which roll etc.
>
> ppro



Ashwood Lake Photography
http://www.alphoto.com
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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread tom

Bojidar Dimitrov wrote:
> 
> Recently Provencher, Paul M. wrote:
> >
> > Jon wrote> Is there a good system to utilise to catelogue and file my
> > photographs that anyone would care to recommend? <<
> 
> ...
> This would, of course, not work for those of us who do not manage to shoot
> an entire film on a single day.  But the system can be adjusted for that.



If there shots from more than one day on the roll, I just use the day
processed. It at least gives you a ballpark figure of when they were
shot.

I think filing slides is about twice as easy as filing negs, since you
have to match prints or contacts to the negs. I think that's the
nightmare aspect of filing - looking at a print, then trying to find the
neg.

I too am considering setting up a DB, but haven't gotten around to it.
I'm wondering if I ever will, since just keeping everything numbered is
enough of a chore in itself.

One thing that I do now is scan the keepers, and add the filing system
number to the filename, e.g.:

http://bigdayphoto.com/tom/images/booger_dog_03190101_23.jpg

Ok, that one's not so much of a keeper, but you get the idea.

This way I've got most of my good shots on disk, and probably somewhere
on my web site...if I want to print one, it's easy enough to find the
neg.

tv
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Re: AF280T Help

2001-03-21 Thread William Kane


   Don't have an a-c adapter for it . . . started to take out screws
today on the hopes that it's the capacitor . . . oscillator did sound
off correctly while charging the flash (except it started high, started
moving low and held a pitch instead of going all the way to low), so I'm
assuming the capacitor really has gone south.

   Does anyone out there have the repair manual for the AF280T?  Or know
where I can get one?  Turns out there are SEVERAL capacitors in there,
and I want to find out which one(s) are more likely to be the culprit
before replacing them all . . .

Thanks,
Illinois Bill

"Paris, Leonard" wrote:
> 
> Hey Bill,
> 
> If you have an a-c adapter for this flash, try this.
> 
> Plug it in and charge up the flash.  Leave it plugged in and charged for a
> whole day. If you can, fire the flash with the test button several times
> during this day.  Then, when the day is over, put a fresh set of batteries
> in it and see how long it takes between recharges.  If it still takes about
> the same amount of time, the flash needs repair.  The problem could be
> either the capacitor or the charging circuitry. Listen for the sound of the
> oscillator when you try to charge the flash from batteries, it should be
> pretty audible and decrease in volume as the capacitor approaches fully
> charged.  In tone, the sound should start fairly low and increase in pitch
> as full charge is approached.
> 
> Replacing the capacitor could be tough, if you can't find a suitable
> replacement. And the problem might not be the capacitor.
> 
> Len
> ---
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: William Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 10:02 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: AF280T Help
> >
> >
> > I missed Alan's post . . . is there anything I can do about this?  I
> > know how to solder pretty well, anyone think that it's easy enough to
> > try and take out the old capacitor and put in a new one?
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > Mark Roberts wrote:
> > >
> > > Bill Kane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > > >   I've got this flash for my Super Program, and lately
> > it's been taking
> > > >FOREVER to charge up to full power (somewhere along the
> > lines of 60-120
> > > >seconds) . . . is there any way to help this guy out?  I
> > gave it new
> > > >batteries, but that hasn't worked.
> > >
> > > I'm with Alan: Sounds like the capacitor's going South.
> > > -
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[FW:Asahi Pentax SV]

2001-03-21 Thread Todd Stanley


Spotted in rec.photo.marketplace
http://groups.google.com/groups?oi=djq&as_ugroup=rec.photo.marketplace

Todd

 

Subject: 
 Asahi Pentax SV
Date: 
 Tue, 20 Mar 2001 14:17:19 GMT
   From: 
 "Joseph R. Uhlberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 Organization: 
 Excite@Home - The Leader in Broadband http://home.com/faster
 Newsgroups: 
 rec.photo.marketplace




For Sale: Original owner of an Asahi Pentax SV (same as Honeywell
Pentax  H3V). Serial # 572738.
Includes original Super-Takumar 55mm F1.8 normal lens. Lens has some
cleaning marks on front element but is in otherwise superb condition.

Camera is in extremely good condition considering its over 25 year age.
Leatherette is clean and intact; there is a slight rounded "dimple" on
the top of the prism housing. Chrome is mostly clean and without any
pitting.
Shutter action is crisp and accurate at all speeds; self timer functions
flawlessly.

Includes original Pentax lens cap, neckstrap and everyready carry case.

Price: $75.00 and I will pay insured shipping costs to any U.S. or
Canadian location.

Respond to either: [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks,

Joe







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[FW: Outer housing for PENTAX DIGITAL SPOTMETER; make offer.]

2001-03-21 Thread Todd Stanley


Spotted in rec.photo.marketplace
http://groups.google.com/groups?oi=djq&as_ugroup=rec.photo.marketplace

Todd



Subject: 
 FS: Outer housing for PENTAX DIGITAL SPOTMETER; make offer.
Date: 
 Mon, 19 Mar 2001 16:54:44 -0800
   From: 
 "Pepe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 Organization: 
 http://extra.newsguy.com
 Newsgroups: 
 rec.photo.marketplace




This is a new replacement part (actually 2 parts: front Y1 and backY2) 
body proper that was never used. So if your spotmeter body is cracked or
otherwise needs replacing, this is what you need. Make me a reasonable
offer.  $25 takes it immediately.




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[FW: Pentax Brand New MZ-3]

2001-03-21 Thread Todd Stanley


Spotted in rec.photo.marketplace.35mm
http://groups.google.com/groups?oi=djq&as_ugroup=rec.photo.marketplace

Todd



Subject: 
 FS: Pentax Brand New MZ-3
Date: 
 Mon, 19 Mar 2001 22:44:36 GMT
   From: 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] (a)
 Organization: 
 Your Organization
 Newsgroups: 
 rec.photo.marketplace.35mm




I just returned from Japan and bought a brand (3/16/01) new black Pentax
MZ-3. 
I need to sell due to a bad carburator on my motorcycle.  The camera has
never 
been opened from the seal plastic bag.  Comes with English and Japanese 
manuals & internonal warranty.  Purchase price: The same as what I bought it 
for (except you don't have to pay the custom duty charge) $480.00 (57700
Yen) + 
shipping.


 Email if interested.

 -alan

  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 



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Radioactive batteries?? I don't think so

2001-03-21 Thread John . Cohen


> PS: Avoid buying any active optical system, they usually use Radioactive
> decay batteries... might never have to change the battery ever but.. maybe
> your life won't be as long.
> Or be carefull and check these with Meters for radioactivity.

>Philippe, your remark about radioactive Russian optical systems, is it
>serious, or you are only joking?
>I have a Russian exposure meter (an Sverdlovsk-6) and I don't have a
>Geiger radioactivity detector to check if it is radioactive or not.
>It seems to use a common battery, but the curious thing is that this
>battery is almost ten years old and it still works.

If any part of your camera equipment were seriously radioactive, your film
would have told you that a long time ago. I think this is an, um, Red
herring.
JJ

J. John Cohen, M.D., Ph.D. 
Department of Immunology, B-184 
University of Colorado Medical School 
Denver, CO 80262, USA 
phone: +1 303 315-8898 
fax:  +1 303 315-5967 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 



-Original Message-
From: Carlos Royo [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, 20 March, 2001 15:03
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Russian lens




Philippe Trottier wrote:



--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
--
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RE: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Provencher, Paul M.

Jon wrote> Is there a good system to utilise to catelogue and file my
photographs that anyone would care to recommend? <<

There are a number of "systems" but the most important thing is that you do
it on an ongoing basis.  That allows you to manage it in smaller chunks and
to record the info at a time that you are more likely to remember it.

Aside from storage and retrieval systems, which I think are best left to
personal preference, I like to use a numbering system that I learned in a
lab.  It is good because it encodes useful data, is scaleable, and easy to
use.

Basically start with the date noted as YYMMDD, then add on the roll number
for that day in the format NN where NN is a two digit number using leading
zeros, and finally the frame number, again in the NN format.  A typical
number would look like this:

010321-01-05 - The fifth frame of the first roll shot on March 21, 2001.
Since the number of digits should not change (if you routinely shoot more
than 99 rolls of film or more than 99 frames on a roll you may want to add a
digit to these components)

Just by reading the number of the image, I can immediately determine when it
was shot and which roll etc.

ppro
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Re: Recommendations for printing wanted

2001-03-21 Thread tom

Aaron Reynolds wrote:
> 
> tom wrote:
> >
> > How about Aaron?
> 
> Until I pick up a new medium format scanner, my current weakness is 645,
> from which I've never been happy with anything I've printed over 16x20.

Are you eyeing the new Polaroid or Nikon?

tv
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Re: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread Bill Owens

Unfortunately, this isn't possible in this case unless the rehearsal dinner
is at the same place.  It's being held about 350 miles from here.

Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


>
> I suggest you make a visit to the place where the wedding reception is to
> be held.
> Check the lightnings, how high the ceiling is, how spacious and big area
> is, etc...
> It is always good to be prepared and not arrive at a venue and start
> cracking ones head.
>
> IMHO
>
> Jason
>
> At 10:41 PM 3/20/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> >I've just been informed by the war department that I am to photograph the
> >reception at a wedding on April 7.  My plan is to give her the ZX-5n with
a
> >24-50 zoom while I use the PZ-1p with the FA 28-105 and 500FTZ flash,
both
> >loaded with Portra 400.  Any suggestions/hints would be  greatly
> >appreciated.
> >Bill, KG4LOV
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> Snail: Pobox 56-86, Taipei, Taiwan ROC
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: 02-27136283, 02-27699236
> HP: 0930636190(Roc), 98322170(Sg)
>
> "The love we give away is the only love we keep"
>
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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Bojidar Dimitrov

Recently Provencher, Paul M. wrote:
> 
> Jon wrote> Is there a good system to utilise to catelogue and file my
> photographs that anyone would care to recommend? <<

...

> Basically start with the date noted as YYMMDD, then add on the roll number
> for that day in the format NN where NN is a two digit number using leading
> zeros, and finally the frame number, again in the NN format.  A typical
> number would look like this:
> 
> 010321-01-05 - The fifth frame of the first roll shot on March 21, 2001.
> Since the number of digits should not change (if you routinely shoot more
> than 99 rolls of film or more than 99 frames on a roll you may want to add a
> digit to these components)
> 
> Just by reading the number of the image, I can immediately determine when it
> was shot and which roll etc.
> 

This would, of course, not work for those of us who do not manage to shoot
an entire film on a single day.  But the system can be adjusted for that.

I too have been thinking of developing a system, and my first take would be
something like this:

- shoot slides,
- when a new film is picked up from the developer:
  - throw away all that are not at least very good,
  - record a running number on each "keeper".  Let the numbers run
continuously, regarless of topic/subject/occasion.  Continue increasing
the running numbers with the next film that you get developed.
  - file the keepers in transparent slide pages.
- for each "keeper" enter all vital info in a computer database.

Things that might go in the DB are: slide number, image category or
categories, date, film, lens, exposure info, etc.  The lens and film will
be identified only by a single number that is a key in a table dedicated to
films and another one to lens details.

In this way I can easily find out all images shot with lens #8 or on film
type #3.  I can also get more fancy and find all images that were shot on a
particular date with a given lens but not with film type #3, etc.

If I need to take these images out of their storage, I will have to pull
images from various slide filing sheets, and will then need to file them
back in.  Both of these operations are not a problem because the slides a
numbered sequentially, and I know that there are 20 slides on a page.

What do you all think?

Cheers,
Boz

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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread tom

Jon Hope wrote:
> 
> Enough rambling. A couple of questions. Is there a good system to utilise
> to catelogue and file my photographs that anyone would care to recommend?
> And secondly, do you people go through the photographs you have taken on
> any sort of regular basis?

I use the numbering system someone else recommended - mmddyynn. I put
everything in a printfile sleeve, and file it along with a contact
sheet. I started this after a couple of years of photography and am
still trying to catch up.

There are some DB programs that will allow you to catalogue your photos
alongn with subject information... but I haven't gotten around to that.
I may write something myself.

tv
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Re: Bodies Roll Call UPDATE 72

2001-03-21 Thread Takehiko Ueda

> - MX...114
> - LX...114

Aaron, our day has almost come! 

Sincerely,


Take Ueda, Osaka, Japan
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.tripod.co.jp/hayatama/photo/

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quality of sigma 170-500?

2001-03-21 Thread Frank Wajer

Hi,

has anyone tried the Sigma 170-500 zoom. How is it's quality compared
to the fixed 300 f4 or 400 f5.6 Pentax lenses.
I'm considering getting an ultra-telelens but I'm not sure what will be
the most versatile focal length. 170-500 zoom would therefore be great.


Frank

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Re: OT: darkroom pics

2001-03-21 Thread tom

Michael Nosal wrote:
> 
> >I may try it again, reducing the exposure for the lightbox another stop.
> >
> >You can tell I was in the middle of a session by all the discarded paper
> >on the floor...
> >
> 
> What's the camera and lens next to the lightbox?

ZX-5n and 85/1.4.

tv
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I hate unemployment ...

2001-03-21 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

... so these have to go:

Sears 80-200/4 zoom
It's in good condition.  I got it about 1990
and used in on my A3000 and ZX-M.
$50

Kenko auto extension tubes
Very nice condition.  Clean and ready to use.
$50

Sigma 1.4x AF Teleconverter.
In nice condition.  With caps.
$40

Add $5 for shipping for one or $7 all 3 items.

Collin

***

Data Processing Consultation, Inc.
Providing Broad-Spectrum Business Soutions and Assistance
http://www.iol21.com/dpconsult
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Bodies Roll Call UPDATE 72

2001-03-21 Thread Albano_Garcia


No new members. Just three more exemplars of the best camera ever made,
for Aarons joy.


Please send the messages to me directly, to not disturb other members, thanks.
Also, I've not included 110 and digital cameras, just because I started this
way, and I didn't want to change in the middle of the way.
Also, if you already submited and want to add new items, please put clearly in
your message: this is not my first submission, so I don't put you twice in the
total answers.
Thanks to all contributors.



TOTAL ANSWERS: 348 members

MANUAL FOCUS:

Screw Mount:

- Asahiflex IIa3
- Asahiflex IIb2
- Asahi Pentax (AP)3
- K2
- SL...8
- SV..10
- S1a..9
- S2...1
- S3...3
- SP500...10
- SP1000...9
- Spotmatic...32
- Spotmatic II13
- Spotmatic IIa1
- Spotmatic SP22
- Spotmatic SP II..7
- Spotmatic F.33
- Spotmatic F MD...2
- Spotmatic MD.3
- ES..14
- ES II...20
- ElectroSpotmatic.3
- H1...2
- H1a..5
- H2...4
- H3...4
- H3v..5

Bayonette:

- KM14
- KX36
- KX MD..1
- K227
- K2 DMD.8
- K1000.68
- K1000 SE...6
- MX...114
- ME33
- ME SE..1
- ME Super.105
- ME Super SE4
- MV.6
- MG12
- LX...114
- Super Program.65
- Super A...35
- Program Plus..15
- Program A.10
- A3000..3
- A3.2
- A3(date)...1
- P3.6
- P3n6
- P308
- P30t..11
- P5.5
- P501
- ZX M..18
- MZ M...9

AUTOFOCUS:

- ME F..11
- SF 1...5
- SFX3
- SF 1n..6
- SFXn...9
- SF 7...2
- SF 10..6
- PZ 1..18
- PZ 1 SE1
- Z121
- PZ 1p.63
- Z1p...39
- PZ 10..5
- Z 10...1
- PZ 20..9
- Z 20...3
- Z 50p..1
- PZ 70..6
- Z 70...2
- Z5.1
- MZ 3..16
- ZX 5...7
- MZ 5..11
- ZX 5n.47
- MZ 5n.32
- ZX 7...9
- MZ 7...6
- ZX 10..9
- MZ 10.12
- ZX 30..5
- ZX 50..5
- MZ 50..6


MEDIUM FORMAT:

- 64516
- 645n3
- 6x7.9
- 67..9
- 67 II...6




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Re: PUG news

2001-03-21 Thread Rapture


Sorry i just got back from a trip, what's the theme?
Patterns and Textures?

At 12:01 AM 3/21/2001 -0600, you wrote:
>This is last call for the next gallery. If you are going to
>submit an image, please do it soon.
>Also, I am please to announce that Chris Brogden has joined the
>PUG Enablers team. Chris will be working in the capacity of
>proofreader.
>Thanks
>Bill
>-
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Re: OT: darkroom pics

2001-03-21 Thread Michael Nosal

>I may try it again, reducing the exposure for the lightbox another stop.
>
>You can tell I was in the middle of a session by all the discarded paper
>on the floor...
>

What's the camera and lens next to the lightbox?

--mike

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RE: Recommendations for printing wanted

2001-03-21 Thread Andy Harbin

I've also been looking into prints from slides (35mm), but it seems that
most places just do it digitally.  Is this how everyone gets their
slides printed?  I know about Ilfochrome (not available locally AFAIK),
but are there other processes?  I absolutely love the extra colour that
I get from slide film, but it seems to be a hassle to get decent
enlargements from it.  

Andy

 -Original Message-
From:   Mark Roberts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
Sent:   March 20, 2001 8:51 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject:Recommendations for printing wanted

My S.O. wants a big-ass print of one of my 645 photos (say, 30 x
22). I'd appreciate any recommendations of where to send the
transparancy (Ektachrome 100S) for a high quality print. 

Mark
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Re: WTB: Right-angle finder A

2001-03-21 Thread Michael Perham

"Robertson, Alastair" wrote:

> Hi
>
> I am after a right-angle finder for my super program.  Ideally it should be
> the A-type that allows the LCD panel to be viewed. Anybody willing to sell
> me one for a reasonable price?
>

I have been trying to pick one up on e-bay for some time.  Haven't seen an
A-type, but the "M" shows up from time to time.  A new (A-type) sells for about
$500 cdn. and the B-types have been going on e-bay for about $385 cdn. (last
week one went for $249 US)  add shipping etc. you would be well over $400.  Not
a bargain by any means.

Add my name to anyone trying to sell one...  but I am becoming resigned to the
fact that I may have to spring for a new one.

Cheers,  Mike.


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Re: Wallaby Country!

2001-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds



PAUL STENQUIST wrote:
> 
> I wore it in Wallaby country as well. (At least I think I was in Wallaby
> country :-) I had a shoot in an Australian farm town right after the New
> Zealand adventure, so the rugby shirt was in my luggage.

We sent my cousin in Moscow a Team Canada hockey jersey so she could
stick out. ;)

I considered wearing my Toronto Maple Leafs jersey the last time I was
in Montreal, but I decided that I valued my personal safety too highly.

Welcome to the list, Tanya!

-Aaron

p.s. you may want to get into the geography poll that Chris is running;
it'll give you a good idea of where everyone is in the world.


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Re: darkroom pics

2001-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds



William Robb wrote:
> 
> I like the safelight one the best.
> Hmmm, I see a PUG theme coming on.
> Anyone interested in a "special" gallery?
> Call it "My Darkroom"?

I'd be in for that.

-Aaron

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Re: Subject: Introduction to ME! :-)

2001-03-21 Thread Bruce Dayton

Tanya,

If you are considering lots of wedding work, you may want to stick with the
PZ-1p.  Two reasons come to mind.  First, a second or backup body that
operates and feels *exactly* like the main body allows you to fully
concentrate on the job at hand, rather than fiddling with the differences.
This includes both controls and meters.  You get to *know* a camera over
time and to trust it.  The second reason is because of the fill flash/flash
compensation capabilities.  Wedding shots can always use a twinkle in the
eyes of the couple - even in broad daylight.  This is one place that the
PZ-1p shines.  Flash synch up to 1/250th and flash compensation at -1.5 ev
is just about right.  It makes sure that there are no shadows hiding the
eyes and puts a catchlight in the eyes.

I would look around and see if you can find a used PZ-1p  - who knows, with
all this LX enabling going on, maybe one of the list members would be
willing to part with theirs.

Good luck,

Bruce Dayton
Sacramento, CA


- Original Message -
From: "Tanya & Russell Mayer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Pentax Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 2:04 AM
Subject: Subject: Introduction to ME! :-)


> Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 21:39:53 -0800
> From: "Ernest Alejandria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Introduction to ME! :-)
>
> Tanya Mayer wrote:
>
> 
> >is in regards to the Pz-20.  Is anybody familiar with this model (I
> > >believe
> >that it was released in '94 and
> >discontinued in '95)?  I know that it is only a fairly basic model, but
>I
> >have had one offered to me for a
> >good price and I am genuinely interested in the "hyper" mode function
>that
> >it offers.  All  comments
> >and advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Welcome to the group, Tanya. I'm not too familiar with the camera in
> question but since you already owned a PZ-1p, I assumed that the "hyper"
> mode of the PZ-20 would be equal to or less than that of top-of-the-line
> model. So at best, purchasing this camera would just buy you redundant
> capabilty. Good luck and let us know what you decide.
>
> Ernest Paulo
>
> Thanks for your welcome Ernest, and also for your advice.
>
> I think that maybe I should have rephrased my enquiry about the Pz-20.
> I guess I am primarily wondering if it operates in the same way as the
PZ-1p
> and if anybody could possibly elaborate on this and the other features
that
> this
> camera body has, I would be most appreciative.  Also, I am wanting
> to purchase something similar to the Pz-1p in weight and ergonomics, but
> can't afford another Pz-1p at the moment (hopefully when the MZ-S comes
> out, they'll go down in price), so thought that the PZ-20 might be a good
> compromise.  I have found that my MZ-50 is basically useless with my
> collection of lenses (which are all used k mounts), with exception of
course
> to the sigma 28-80 that it came with, and the p30t can be a little
limitiing
> at
> times with its slow maximum shutter speed - thus! i need yet another new
> body
> (yes, i really do NEED it - well, so I tell my husband anyways!).  At this
> rate
> though, I will be not only building a darkroom in our new house, but also
a
> room
> just for storing my cameras in, hehe, maybe we should buy the kids some
bunk
> beds
> and they can share a room! Oh, such an expensive interest we all have here
> (but a good excuse to shop!).
>
> :-D
>
> Tanya.


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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Bruce Dayton

Jon,

I'm not sure that there is a perfect system.  I have tried several ways.
What I have found is that they are time consuming.  What I have settled on
lately is scanning all images and organizing them by roll and frame number.
Scan size allows for a reasonable 4 X 6.  Anything I really like also gets
scanned for 8 X 10 and stored in a *full size* folder.  Then I have a piece
of software that creates thumbnails of all pics and gives me an Explorer
view so that I can quickly move from roll to roll.  This is then archived to
CD.  The negatives are put in pages and stored in binders.

Unfortunately, either you take a lot of time with a system of sorts or you
somewhat *lose* everything.  In some respects, slides can be handy because
you can throw away most of them and only keep the really good stuff.  If you
buy slide pages that have an opaque backing, you can view all the thumbnails
simply by holding it up to the light.  Then organize them by subject or
chronology or something.  This is probably one of the better compromises for
slide shooters.  However, I am no longer one of these.

You asked if I ever go through old stuff.  Yes, I do quite often, due to the
speed of showing all the thumbnails with the above mentioned system.

Bruce Dayton
Sacramento, CA


- Original Message -
From: "Jon Hope" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 4:09 AM
Subject: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs


> Hi all
>
> I was looking for a photograph I had taken a year or so ago, and my filing
> system being what it is.. well, it isn't a system as such, just whack
> everything into draws until they fill up and then get more drawers:-)..
> Anyway, I was going through all the stuff I'd taken over the past few
years
> and was pleasantly surprised at some of the photographs I'd forgotten I'd
> ever taken. Actually, I was more than pleasantly surprised, I was rather
> chuffed with some of them, so much so that some are going to be enlarged
> and hung on the walls here at home. I dunno why I didn't pull them out
> earlier and get them done.
>
> Enough rambling. A couple of questions. Is there a good system to utilise
> to catelogue and file my photographs that anyone would care to recommend?
> And secondly, do you people go through the photographs you have taken on
> any sort of regular basis?
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Jon


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Re: FS: Black ME Super

2001-03-21 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Gary ..

I've been thinking about your offer, but have also been involved
with other purchases and sales which would effect my decision.  I'd
planned to get back to you last night but, instead, fell asleep .

I'd take $175.00 and would throw in either a strap or a filter as a
small incentive, as I've several extra straps and a few filters I'd
be willing to part with.  Don't know which filter I'd pass along as
I've many, many filters, and would probably just grab the first
decent one in the box.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

"Gary L. Murphy" wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 19 Mar 2001 17:38:37 -0800, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> 
> >I'd like to get $200.00 for it, but I'd listen to any reasonable
> >offer.  I paid $200.00 for it, so, of course I'd like to get all my
> >money back .  But really, I'll listen to any reasonable offer -
> >you decide what works for you.
> 
> Shel,
> 
> I assumed you passed on my offer for this?
> 
> Later,
> Gary
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Re: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread Rapture


I suggest you make a visit to the place where the wedding reception is to 
be held.
Check the lightnings, how high the ceiling is, how spacious and big area 
is, etc...
It is always good to be prepared and not arrive at a venue and start 
cracking ones head.

IMHO

Jason

At 10:41 PM 3/20/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>I've just been informed by the war department that I am to photograph the
>reception at a wedding on April 7.  My plan is to give her the ZX-5n with a
>24-50 zoom while I use the PZ-1p with the FA 28-105 and 500FTZ flash, both
>loaded with Portra 400.  Any suggestions/hints would be  greatly
>appreciated.
>Bill, KG4LOV
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]


Snail:  Pobox 56-86, Taipei, Taiwan ROC
Email:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:02-27136283, 02-27699236
HP: 0930636190(Roc), 98322170(Sg)

"The love we give away is the only love we keep"

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Re: Wedding ... GASP !!!

2001-03-21 Thread dick graham

At my son's wedding last year I ran out of Portra just before the wedding 
dance and had to fall back on Gold 200 for the reception and dance 
shots.  The Portra shots came back from the lab just as I expected, great 
skin tones, less contrast, great detail, your typical wedding photography 
color palette.  The Gold 200 shots of the reception  and dance had great 
color saturation and vibrancy, skin tones were over tanned but actually it 
made for a good party film because the increased color saturation really 
picked up the color of the balloons and other decorations.  I can see why 
the UK magazine Practical Photography picked it as their favorite 200 speed 
color print film last year.

DG



At 10:04 PM 3/20/01 -0500, you wrote:
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> >   Phillippe.
> >  Don't be such a wimpget in there with your 35mm !!!
> >   Seriously...look thru actual wedding albums and magazines
> >   for inspiration and unusual angles, interview the couple to
> >   see what THEY want (hint)...then shoot loads of Kodak Gold
> >   200 asa.
>
>Gold 200? Why would you use this over Portra or one of the Fuji's?
>
>tv
>-
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Re: Introduction to ME, continued.....8-)

2001-03-21 Thread Alexandre A. P. Suaide

Welcome to the list. Enjoy it as much as possible.

Alex

Tanya & Russell Mayer wrote:
> 
> Continued from first message
> 
> I have some stuff posted on photo.net and here are the links, if anyone is
> 
> Thanks in advance, and it is nice to me among other people who believe that
> Pentax is second to none!
> 
> Tanya Mayer.
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .

-- 
---
Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.   mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Physics Department
University of Sao Paulo - BrazilPhone: 1-313-577-5419
Wayne State University - MI -USAICQ number: 78139605
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Re. O.T. we're talking basketball slaughter of USC (was O.T. Rolling blackout in Ca.)

2001-03-21 Thread W Keith Mosier

Paulo Ernest wrote:

 But not in the middle of "March Madness" when my USC Trojans are in
 the "sweet sixteen" for the first time in history.
 GO SC.

I hope you don't have a black out during the game, when my Cats defeat your
Trojans. :-P  I want you to see just how great Kentucky's team is.  :-)  I
was one of the student photographers for the UK newpaper when "the Baron",
Adolph Rupp was still the Baron of basketball coaches.

Yes, this is the first time USC has made it to the sweet sixteen in the 64
team format, but didn't they make it to the final four in '54 and the sweet
sixteen in the 24 team format in '61 or '62?

Sorry I won't be around for an answer or any further friendly ribbing, but
I have to run to catch a plane.  Just gotta unsubscribe for a week and be
back after the games.  No, I don't have tickets to the games, just the same
ol' work.  I hope the hotel has good reception on the TV.

K.


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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Douglas E Harmon wrote:

> I checked BOA's site on this, but was wondering what the general
> consensus was on the M-85mm F2.0. Any comments appreciated.

Hi Doug ...

As you probably know, I've almost as many 85mm lenses as Fred,
including the M85/2.0, which is neither as sharp nor as contrasty as
the others.  However, I like it because of its small size and
because I don't always want a rendition as sharp as, for example,
the A*85/1.4. However, it's got a pretty decent bokeh if I recall,
and it should be nice for a typical head-and-shoulders shot.  A few
people have tried to pry the M85/2.0 out of my tight grip, but thus
far I won't let it go.  It serves a purpose, and serves it well. 
And, considering that it's less expensive than just about any other
Pentax 85mm lens, it's a decent value as well.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??

2001-03-21 Thread William Robb


- Original Message -
From: "Douglas E Harmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: March 21, 2001 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: What's the good or bad word on the M-85 F2.0??


> Thanks William and Arnold,
> What you are trying to say is that this is lens is the
"not as pretty
> sister" that you don't mind people seeing you with and is nice
to talk
> to I put a bid in on the one on e-Bay, so we'll see how it
goes. I think
> the BIN price of $275 is to high. What do you all think?

I do think $275.00 is high for that lens (I presume that is
US$). It seems to me that is nearly half of the 77mm lens price,
in which case I would spring for it instead. I am finding that
Pentax lens pricing has gone really wonky, though. If a pancake
is worth 200 US$, then the M85f2 is definitely worth $275.00. I
just don't think the M40mm f2,8 is worth mote than $12.50.
William Robb


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Re: Sorta OT. Perusing previous photographs

2001-03-21 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

Jon Hope wrote:
 
> Enough rambling. A couple of questions. Is there a good system to utilise
> to catelogue and file my photographs that anyone would care to recommend?

by far the best (and all the Pros I know use it) is a large
array of drawers to which more drawers can be added to as needed


!8^D

-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Vuescan

2001-03-21 Thread herbet brasileiro

My browser does not get redirected. I'm using IE5
though.
Herbet.
--- "Frits_J._Wüthrich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> When I want to goto http://www.hamrick.com I get
> redirected immediately to
> http://home.verio.com/index.cfm?rd=best
> 
> Why? Anyone knows?
> 
> Frits
> 
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