Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-21 Thread mike wilson

Agreed.  I think the word Paul was looking for is Tuftrided or
Nitrided.  Both of which may be trade names rather than
generics.  Anodising is the process of colouring the colourless
skin of oxide which forms almost instantly on fresh aluminium or
its alloys.

mike

Bruce Rubenstein wrote:
 
 Aluminum is NOT the material of choice for crankshafts. I know of no crankshaft
 using aluminum. Pistons, heads, blocks, yes: no crankshafts.
 
 --- Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Anodizing can be
  colorless and is sometimes used just to harden things. Crankshaft journals,
  for example, are hard anodized for
  racing applications.
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Re: Snorkelling Camera

2002-03-21 Thread mike wilson

Hi Allen,

Allen Murray wrote:
 
 Mike,
 
 Were you equally disappointed with the above and below water shots? I know
 the camera is not terrific on land. 

I didn't really use it much below water.  I bought it because I
sometimes do some outdoor work in whatever the weather
conditions are and need to take pictures of sites.  A waterproof
camera seemed like a good idea and the Canon was by far the
cheapest option.

When I did play with it in swimming pools, I found that most of
the shots were grossly overexposed by the flash

Now I have a Zoom 90 WR, which has its own faults but produces
excellent pictures most of the time.  I suspect it will fail
before the A1, though.

BTW, for those who were discussing proper snorkelling cameras,
there is a UK (?) producer called Sea  Sea who make a few
models with attachable strobes.  They are considerably cheaper
than Nikonos' and are seen secondhand reasonably often.  It may
be a rebrand of the Reefmaster.

One of these was lost by a diver in the English channel.  It was
found about 9 months later in Scotland and the diver was traced
from the photgraphs on the processed film.

mike
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Re: UK PDMLers

2002-03-21 Thread mike wilson

Hi Dave,

David A. Mann wrote:

  Another thing I'd like to ask about is film  processing.  I will
 not be carrying unexposed film through the airports so I'll need a
 shop which sells decent film (Reala, Provia both in 35mm and 120).  I
 also need a place that can develop the stuff.

Once you're in the UK you can buy film over the net at a
considerable saving on High Street places.

  I have no idea how much camera gear I'll bring though.  I'm very
 tempted to bring the RB67 gear to sell as I'll get a lot more for it
 over there.  I'd love to be able to swap it for a secondhand
 FA*400/5.6 or something :)

Just don't try to sell it in Yorkshire 8-)

  What are the rail fares like?  I can find online timetables but not
 fares.  I'd be interested to know what it'll cost me to get to London
 (and Brighton of course).

Comparatively expensive and not entirely reliable.  Buses are
considerably cheaper and not much slower these days.  Car hire
might even be a better way to go.

  I hope the fish  chips are good.

Very variable.  Hard to find good quality nowadays as we have
virtually fished out the North Sea.  You might have to make do
with compressed sand eel and chips. 8-)

mike
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Re: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Bruce Dayton

Bolo,

I have the 67II so hopefully can answer some of your questions.  See
answers interspersed below:


Brother Bruce



Thursday, March 21, 2002, 12:06:44 AM, you wrote:

snip

B 1) The 67II does TTL flash.  From the photos I've seen the hotshoe
B appears to be a Pentax 4p hot shoe.  That means that the 67II will
B do TTL flash with my existing Pentax TTL Flashes, such as the AF280T?
B Also, the 67 flash system is a straight 4p system and won't TTL with
B the auto-focus 5p flashes?

The 67II does 5p digital TTL.  It works the same as the ZX series 35mm
bodies.  That means that it can work with the latest AF360FGZ, the
AF500FTZ and the AF280T.  I have used both my AF280T and my AF360FGZ
on it TTL mode very successfully.  You can also use the Auto modes on
the flash or straight manual if you like.

B 2) Only the AE prism for the 67 does metering, all the other finders
B lack metering so you need either a hand-held or sunny-16 meter? 
B I would like to have a waist-level finder that would meter, so I
B don't have to peer through the small peephole viewfinder so much.

I don't think that the waist level finder on either the 67II or the
earlier models has a meter in them.  You would need to use a handheld
meter or estimate yourself.

B 3) The 6x7 metering prism is a full-average meter, while the 67II AE
B prism is closer to 35mm gear with center-weighted, spot, and matrix
B metering modes?

That is correct.


B 4) Can you adjust TTL flash fill via exposure compensation like you
B can on the SuperProgram?  In other words use manual metering, and adjust
B the exposure compensation to control the flash fill?

That is also correct.  However, remember that your flash synch is only
1/30th of a second.  You can improve that by using the leaf shutter
lenses, but the leaf shuttter lenses are not compatible with the TTL
system.

B 5) What is the highest shutter speed on the leaf shutter lens(s)?  1/500?
B When using the leaf shutter lens does the body sync the flash correctly?

I believe that the lens is what triggers the flash via a PC cord. That
is also why you lose the TTL.

B 6) I have read that mirror and shutter vibration are a big problem
B with the Pentax 67 bodies.  An article on The Luminous Landscape
B http://www.luminous-landscape.com/pentax67ii.htm
B shows multiple images on photographs with Pentax 67 gear because the
B shutter and the mirror shake the camera so badly.   On the other
B hand, the PDML photographers have been getting excellent results.
B What's up?

The focal length of the lenses.  Much like 35mm.  At shorter focal
lengths, vibration is not much of a problem.  At long focal lengths
greater than 300mm you start to run into the usual vibration issues.
It is my understanding that the new 67II has improved on the vibration
problem.  Be sure to perform this simple test - Set shutter to bulb -
lock up mirror - fire shutter but don't immediately release the
shutter - now release the shutter.  You will note that the shutter
vibration is very minor.  The worst vibration is when the mirror
returns - safe because image is already captured.

B 7) Some things that I've read say that the camera and lenses have two
B bayonets, an inner bayonet and a outer bayonet.  Digging around
B it seems that some accessories (extension tubes for example) work only
B on one of the bayonets.  Does this mean there are essentially two incompatible
B lens systems for the 67, and you need to have, for example, extension tubes
B and teleconverters for *each* of the bayonets?

The outer bayonet is for long focal lengths.  I have not encountered
anything personally that uses the outer bayonet, but I have only
looked up to 300mm.  All my lenses and extension tubes are for the
inner bayonet.


B 8) Any lenses to stay away from?  Any particularly outsanding ones
B (yes, I already know about Aaron's 75mm f/2.8 :)?  Any recommendations for
B any particularly good pairs or triplets of prime lenses?

The 55/4 77mm filter is supposed to be outstanding.  My experience so
far would agree with that.  I currently use the 55/4, 90/2.8 and
165/2.8.  I am quite happy with that setup.

B 9) Is the film loading particularily onerous, or is it comparable to
B 6x6 TLR bodies?

I personally am not having any real problems with it.  You do have to
be deliberate, but at least on the 67II, loading is fine.  I have not
loaded any TLR's so can't compare.  I believe one of the nice
improvements of the 67II is that the LCD will tell you what you should
be doing.  After loading the film and winding to the right mark, close
the back and the lcd will tell you to keep winding until it gets to
frame one.  Then the shutter cocks and you are ready to roll.  I don't
know if the older 67 requires you to fire the shutter for each wind or
not.  When the roll is finished the LCD will tell you to keep winding
until the roll is spooled off.  Again, no shutter firing, just
winding.  I'm going to have to try the older 67 to see what it is
like.

B 9) Any 

Mamiya/Sekor

2002-03-21 Thread Frankie Lee

Hi

I am offered the Mamiya/Sekor 135/2.8 (m42) at a cheap price. Anyone know the 
performance of this lens? Thanks.

==
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50MB ¹q¤l¶l¥ó ¡Ghttp://sinamail.sina.com.hk
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RE: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Malcolm Smith

 6) I have read that mirror and shutter vibration are a big problem
 with the Pentax 67 bodies.  An article on The Luminous Landscape
   http://www.luminous-landscape.com/pentax67ii.htm
 shows multiple images on photographs with Pentax 67 gear because the
 shutter and the mirror shake the camera so badly.   On the other
 hand, the PDML photographers have been getting excellent results.
 What's up?

Thank you for this posting. I have been so unsure as to which MF Pentax to
save up for, but I now think the 67II will suit me fine.

I must say I am still quite shocked at the cost of them; as I will only be
able to afford one lens to go with the body, I assume I should get the
equivalent to a 50mm for an LX(?).

My home town is on a spree of demolition of historic buildings, and items of
interest, like original railway signal boxes, and I would like to record
them on a bigger format - which reminds me, I also need a good tripod (my
last one demised, but only cost £20), any recommendations anyone?

Malcolm
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Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-21 Thread mike wilson

Hi,

Mick Maguire wrote:
 
 Bruce said: I know of no crankshaft using aluminum. Pistons, heads, blocks,
 yes: no crankshafts.
 
 You don't? you'd better take a look at:
 
 http://www.autoswalk.com/bmwm1.html  (6th paragraph).

Interesting but almost certainly a mistake of some kind, for the
following reasons:

1. Aluminium has a much lower tensile strength than steel, so
the crank would have to be that proportion larger to be as
strong as a steel one.

2. Unlike steel, aluminium has a (can't remember the correct
term for this) finite number of times it can be flexed before it
fractures.  Steel can be flexed (effectively) infinitely if the
flexure is kept (again, can't remember the correct term) below
the point of exceeding its elasticity (elastic limit?).

Therefore an aluminium crankshaft would have to be (once more,
if I remember correctly) about six times larger than an
equvalent steel one and would need to be replaced after a
certain number of revolutions due to the fatigue limit being
reached.  There are all sorts of other complications too, such
as dealing with bearing surfaces, etc.

This is not to say that _no-one_ has _ever_ made a crank out of
aluminium but I do not see any advantage in doing so.

mike
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Re: UK PDMLers

2002-03-21 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 21/03/02 07:22:46 GMT Standard Time, Dave writes:

 I'd like to make this if someone brings some big glass for me to 
 play with :)  But I'm not sure if I'd still be around. 

Pentax UK have some demo big glass - I'm sure they'd like to bring it along 
for you guys to play with

Kind regards

Peter
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Re: UK PDMLers

2002-03-21 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 21/03/02 07:22:46 GMT Standard Time, Malcolm writes:

 Last time I went it was closed - of all the places in the UK you could
 visit.. 

Brighton was closed? Maybe you forgot your passport?

Peter
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RE: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?

2002-03-21 Thread Rob Brigham

Racing engines are designed to be replaced after a certain number of
revolutions.  I think it was Colin Chapman who said that if car was
designed to last longer than a race weekend mileage, then it was not as
fast as it should be.

 -Original Message-
 From: mike wilson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: 21 March 2002 10:36
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Black limited lens coating - does it wear?
 
 Therefore an aluminium crankshaft would have to be (once more,
 if I remember correctly) about six times larger than an
 equvalent steel one and would need to be replaced after a
 certain number of revolutions due to the fatigue limit being
 reached.  There are all sorts of other complications too, such
 as dealing with bearing surfaces, etc.
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

I went for a stroll the other Sunday, to a local lake on my landlord's 
farm. I took only my LX and drive with 300 Tokina 2.8 to give it a try. I 
recently asked about heavy duty quick release systems because I wanted to 
keep to the same system across all my monopod and tripod-mounted lenses, 
but for the highest common denominator, which would be the 300mm. I 
wasn't satisfied that the choices I had, at the prices I wanted to pay, 
were viable.

So, what I did was simply remove the quick release head from the monopod, 
and mount the 300 2.8 straight onto the head mounting bush. Actual 
shooting isn't a problem, it's the carrying. I decided I like to pop the 
combo onto my shoulder, camera/lens facing backwards, with the monopod 
leg down my chest where I can steady it with a hand. I found that this 
works very well, and my only worry was the whole thing coming detached 
and falling. Attaching directly to the bush was the simplest solution, 
and the fact that it takes 30 seconds or so to unscrew/ rescrew the quick 
release head for other lens combos doesn't bother me.

.02

Cotty

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Re: bokeh

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

Brotherhood
Of
Kameras (that are)
Extremely
Heavy.

Beware
Of
K-mount's
Excellent
Hyalescence

(that'll get the dictionaries going - derivative of hyaline...)

Cotty

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Re: Fungus sanity check please . . .

2002-03-21 Thread Otis Wright, Jr.

Why don't you take a infected lens, store it with some of your good lenses for a
few months (in a monitored environment), then have them tested, and then YOU can
write the definitive text on the issue

Otis Wright

Stan Halpin wrote:

 Thanks Dave and also Bob Blakely. I also have searched the web via Google
 and have so far found no definitive evidence that fungus spreads from lens
 to lens. I totally agree with Bob's logic:

  All fungus reproduce by microscopic (translate as too small to see) spores.
  The method of spore propagation is being carried on air currents. Every time
  you focus your lens near to far, air (with fungus spores) is forced out of
  the lens and some into your camera body. (Yes, camera bodies can get fungus
  too.) Put another lens on the body and focus far to near and you suck air
  (with spores?) into the lens. Will the spores germinate? This depends on
  conditions, especially humidity.
 
  I don't take chances.

 But like Dave I have found no clear evidence.
 For example, if an infested lens is a danger, then one might assume that the
 number of spores per liter of air sampled in a space where lenses are kept
 would be higher if some of the lenses are infested. Has anyone checked the
 air in a closet, cabinet, leather bag, nylon ripstop bag?
 For example, given similar conditions, is the likelihood of stored lenses
 being infested higher once an infested lens is introduced into the space?
 If there is data indicating a correlation between presence of an infested
 lens and the likelihood of additional infestation,  could a meta-analysis
 show that what we have is not cause-effect {infested lens causes others to
 become infested} but common-cause {the conditions that encouraged growth of
 fungus in the first lens also encourage growth in other lenses.}

 Because it is logical, and because we know it is right doesn't make it
 right. I just wish I could see some solid empirical data . . . anybody up
 for a microbiology thesis project? And by the way, what is the minimum
 number of spores needed to achieve growth? One?

 Of course Bob's conclusion is the correct conservative one: don't take
 chances. And I won't. But I would like to be able to convince the
 [skeptical] seller that I have a real issue and am not just mindlessly
 passing on urban myths.

 Stan

  From: David Chang-Sang [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:03:59 -0500
  Subject: RE: Fungus sanity check please . . .
 
  Hi Stan,
 
  First let me say that I use your site ALL the time as a reference when I'm
  looking for used Pentax lenses on Ebay or other places.  It's a god send..
  thank you.
 
  Now.. your fungus problem.
  All I could find on the web that seemed to sort of validate your point was
  the following:
 
  http://www.biotech.ufl.edu/EM/data/lenseatingfungi.html  which is a
  biotech/biomed account of some instances amongst some collegues at
  university of florida
 
  http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/photo/fungus/  an interesting page on
  lens fungus with images and a particularly interesting statement that may
  help you in your arguement:
 
  If you use your equipment in damp environments, let it dry as soon as you
  return into a drier room. Never leave your equipment in a closed
  (splashproof) camera bag when it need not be there. Leather lens cases are
  known to be especially bad, because leather is a natural product where fungi
  can grow before they proceed on to the lens
 
  The mere fact that the fungus can transfer from a leather lens case to a
  lens may suggest it's ability to move/transfer from lens to lens should
  lenses be stored together.
 
 
  Most of the pages/sites I spotted are good at explaining why fungus grows
  and how to stop it but not one of them actually stated that it does actually
  spread from lens to lens.
 
  Hope this helps.
 
  Cheers
  Dave
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Stan Halpin
  Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 8:12 PM
  To: PDML
  Subject: Fungus sanity check please . . .
 
 
  I recently bought a used lens on eBay. It arrived with slightly smeared
  glass. I cleaned the lens, front and back, and looked through and saw little
  squiggly lines 1mm or so in length a few places around the edge of the front
  element. Cleaned the front some more to be sure, and confirmed that the
  little squiggly fuzzy lines are on the back side of the front element.
  Fungus I said. Actually what I said first was something else that rhymes
  with hoover. As Wendy would say.
 
  So I email the seller and tell him I don't want fungus. Fine, he says, send
  it back. I could clean it, I says, but I could not be sure of sanitizing it,
  and I don't want the fungus to spread to my other lenses. How about a
  professional cleaning?
 
  The seller is willing to have me get an estimate for a professional CLA of
  the lens. But he is also ridiculing the notion that a lens which is all
  

Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread mike wilson

Hi,

Cotty wrote:

 So, what I did was simply remove the quick release head from the monopod,
 and mount the 300 2.8 straight onto the head mounting bush. 

I've done this for a while with my Tamron (does no-one in the UK
have big _Pentax_ glass?) and found it extremely acceptable. 
It's alright to carry over the shoulder if you are not going too
far.

mike
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Re: Fungus sanity check please . . .

2002-03-21 Thread Otis Wright, Jr.

The fungus got in didn't it?  What's to stop it getting back out?

Newly discovered Halpin Logic containment field..

Otis Wright

Doug Franklin wrote:

 On Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:12:13 -0600, Stan Halpin wrote:

  Tell me I am not crazy! Tell me I am not repeating a myth, that fungus is
  contagious and destructive. Even better, give me the URL of an
  authoritative source on this topic.

 The fungus got in didn't it?  What's to stop it getting back out?

 TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: Lens fungus questions..

2002-03-21 Thread Rfsindg

Wendy,

I think the best fungus protection you have is the great white north. g
Even here in Chicago, the air holds little moisture all winter.  If we get 
the indoor relative humidity up over 35%, the windows begin to sweat.  Fungus 
just isn't as prevalent here as it is in Houston, Florida, or along the Gulf 
of Mexico.

Regards,  Bob S.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 At last, someone to back me up!
 Hubby thinks I've finally totally gone off my trolley. I've currently got a 
 selection of lenses lined up on the window sill with both caps off. I told 
 him I was trying to prevent fungus. He just shook his head.
 
 Wendy
 
 ---
 Wendy Beard
 Ottawa, Canada 
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Re: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Paul Stenquist

I can answer a few of your questions. First, in regard to lenses, the late model
wides are excellent. I bought the latest 55/4, and it focuses down to 1 foot and
is wonderfully sharp and contrasty. The normals are both great as well -- the
105/2.4 and the 90/2.8. I like my 300/4 as well. It's the last of the earlier
version, not the ED, so it doesn't focus very close. But it's very sharp and
easily handheld.
 I think the problems with mirror shake and shutter vibration occur mainly
when working with long lenses and less than adequate tripods at middle shutter
speeds, like 1/30 or 1/15. I have had great results handheld at speeds from 1/125
on up. I've also had great results with a tripod at 1/60 and at 1/4 and 1/8, all
with the mirror locked up. My tripod is hefty and has a broad base video head,
which is probably not ideal but it dampens a lot of vibration.
  Loading film in my 6x7 is as easy as it was in my Mamiya C220. For someone
who has never worked with roll film, it might be a pain at first, but one gets
used to it in a hurry.
Paul

Bolo wrote:

 For the last year I have been debating about MF quite a bit.  I'm not
 getting rid of my 35mm gear, for I use it and have a nice kit that
 I slowly work on improving.  The size and lightness are important
 for a lot of things.  However, I started out in photography long ago
 with MF 6x6 TLR equipment.  It died eventually and I used my parent's
 35mm gear on and off.  Now that I am a well equipped 35mm user I find
 myself missing MF.  The difference seems to have a lot to do with
 peering through a tiny viewfinder versus a nice big ground glass.
 I think that the MF ground glass lets me slow down instead of
 squinting through a tiny eyepiece I also spend a lot of time with my
 35mm gear on a tripod.  Once that happens I often think I should
 go the extra distance for a larger negative.  That certainly won't
 make the shooting any slower than it already is!

 All along I have been planning on adding some MF equipment, but the
 costs for my favorite 6x6 are a bit high, at least for newer stuff
 which is still manufactured.   Some 6x6 backs cost almost as much as
 a used Pentax 67!  So, I put it on the back burner.  Prior to this
 I didn't really consider Pentax due to the lack of 6x6 and I'm not
 particularly interested in 6x4.5.   Though not interested in Pentax
 MF gear, I've still followed along the pdml posts about the 645 and
 the 6x7 and the 67 and the brotherhood of mystic 67 users.

 Well, I probably should have not followed the 67 message since it
 piqued my interest.  I went looking and found that the Pentax 67
 gear is quite affordable, even _new_ compared to 6x6 systems used.
 As I said above, you can get a 2nd 6x7 body for the price of a
 6x6 back!  At pricing like that it seems that if I want a 2nd back
 I might as well get a 2nd body (if it comes to that).  I'm quite
 familiar with the astounding properties of the Pentax SMC glass, and
 it seems the 67 lenses share all the qualities of my Pentax 35mm gear
 ... just in larger cannon sized diameters.

 I'm off to Chicago this weekend to see some Pentax 67 gear in person
 so I can handle it and see what it feels like.  I was hoping to pick
 the collective brain of the PDML for some extra info before I left.
 I've already read the existing articles, but I haven't seen any info
 on the following:

 1) The 67II does TTL flash.  From the photos I've seen the hotshoe
 appears to be a Pentax 4p hot shoe.  That means that the 67II will
 do TTL flash with my existing Pentax TTL Flashes, such as the AF280T?
 Also, the 67 flash system is a straight 4p system and won't TTL with
 the auto-focus 5p flashes?

 2) Only the AE prism for the 67 does metering, all the other finders
 lack metering so you need either a hand-held or sunny-16 meter?
 I would like to have a waist-level finder that would meter, so I
 don't have to peer through the small peephole viewfinder so much.

 3) The 6x7 metering prism is a full-average meter, while the 67II AE
 prism is closer to 35mm gear with center-weighted, spot, and matrix
 metering modes?

 4) Can you adjust TTL flash fill via exposure compensation like you
 can on the SuperProgram?  In other words use manual metering, and adjust
 the exposure compensation to control the flash fill?

 5) What is the highest shutter speed on the leaf shutter lens(s)?  1/500?
 When using the leaf shutter lens does the body sync the flash correctly?

 6) I have read that mirror and shutter vibration are a big problem
 with the Pentax 67 bodies.  An article on The Luminous Landscape
 http://www.luminous-landscape.com/pentax67ii.htm
 shows multiple images on photographs with Pentax 67 gear because the
 shutter and the mirror shake the camera so badly.   On the other
 hand, the PDML photographers have been getting excellent results.
 What's up?

 7) Some things that I've read say that the camera and lenses have two
 bayonets, an inner bayonet and a outer bayonet.  Digging around
 

RE: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Alan Abbott

Can't afford it !
Alan

 -Original Message-
 From: mike wilson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 11:46 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: A few quick release questions
 
 
 Hi,
 
 Cotty wrote:
 
  So, what I did was simply remove the quick release head 
 from the monopod,
  and mount the 300 2.8 straight onto the head mounting bush. 
 
 I've done this for a while with my Tamron (does no-one in the UK
 have big _Pentax_ glass?) and found it extremely acceptable. 
 It's alright to carry over the shoulder if you are not going too
 far.
 
 mike
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Re: Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-21 Thread Rfsindg

Steve,

With the AF200T, turn the audio flash confirmation on and verify you are 
getting TTL when you fire.  The AF200T is not as tall as the AF280T and 
doesn't bounce, so you may see some red eye with longer lenses (85mm+).  I'd 
try a diffuser to see if you can get rid of the harsh look.  I'd save the 
1/2, 1/4, etc power settings for fill flash outdoors.

You should definitely take the flash and Super Program out for some exercise. 
g

Regards,  Bob S.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  Thanks so much for the reply!  That was my second post
 to the group, but only my first response back.  I just
 checked  yes I do have the AF200T.  It seems from
 past memory (I have not shot with this flash in a
 while), that the pictures with it were also a little
 too harsh.  Do you use a difuser, as it is only a
 direct flash, without any tilt?  Or, do you adjust the
 power settings to the 1/2, 1/4, etc. settings?
 
 If I rememeber, it seems that I also tended to get
 quite a few red-eye shots with this flash.  
 
 I should probably break it out and shoot some to see
 how they turn out. 
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 21/03/02 11:44:51 GMT Standard Time, Cotty writes:

 I decided I like to pop the 
 combo onto my shoulder, camera/lens facing backwards, with the monopod 
 leg down my chest where I can steady it with a hand. I found that this 
 works very well, and my only worry was the whole thing coming detached 
 and falling. 

Don't even remind me. A Tamron 300mm f2.8 sheared off the bush from a Gitzo 
monopod this way, entailing cracked front element, totally buggered hood, 
cracked motordrive, and a few minor scuffs to the camera. Once in a lifetime 
is once too often for me.

KR

peter
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 21/03/02 11:44:51 GMT Standard Time, Mike writes:

 I've done this for a while with my Tamron (does no-one in the UK
 have big _Pentax_ glass?)  

Mike. Someone does, now. 

Kind regards

peter
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RE: Mamiya/Sekor

2002-03-21 Thread Paris, Leonard

I've owned and used Mamiya/Sekor lenses in the past and found them to be
very good, however I have no direct experience with the 135mm f/2.8 m42
lens.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Frankie Lee [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 3:49 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Mamiya/Sekor 


Hi

I am offered the Mamiya/Sekor 135/2.8 (m42) at a cheap price. Anyone know
the performance of this lens? Thanks.
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Re: Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-21 Thread Steve Larson

Hi Steve,
$150 is a little steep, but since everything is included, if it
were me, I`d go for it. Later on you can  try the Hot Shoe Grip
with bracket and the  4P Sync Cord B, it`s an excellent set
up for off camera flash work. The 4P Sync Cord B comes in
two lengths, one meter, and three meter.
 Pentax did not make a diffuser for the AF200T, as there are no
slots for it to slide on.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: Steve Pearson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Flash Delima-Please Help


Thanks for the input.  Maybe I need a difuser for the
AF200T that I have?

Is a used AF280T with both the wide angle  the tele
adaptors for $150 a good price?  It appears to be in
excellent condition with cases  manual.

Thanks for any suggestions!


--- Steve Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi Steve,
  The AF200T is a great little flash, but don`t
 expect it to cover
 a lot of range. The AF280T is substantially more
 powerful,
 will have a lot more reach, plus it tilts and
 swivels, has adapters
 for wide and tele, the wide adapter is always used
 on mine when
 shooting people, it`s kind of like a diffuser. Don`t
 rule out the
 AF400T, all you need to use it on a Super P is a 4P
 Sync Cord B,
 check them out on Boz`s page at:
 http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/
 The AF400T also has the wide and tele adapters, can
 be used
 with an external battery pack, and it is quite
 powerful.
 Steve Larson
 Redondo Beach, California
 - Original Message -
 From: Steve Pearson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:52 PM
 Subject: Flash Delima-Please Help


  I currently own a Super Program  have a Pentax
 AF200
  flash  a Vivitar 283 flash.  I primarily use the
 283
  for Professional jobs, with a Lumiquest bounce
 card.
   It seems that lately the pictures are a bit
  overexposed.  I'm giving some thought to buying a
  Pentax AF280T.  Can anyone tell me what to expect.

  Will the 280 provide a noticeable difference?  Can
 I
  expect better results due to TTL?  I have not been
  real happy with the 200, but maybe it's just too
  under-powered?
 
  Your help is greatly appreciated.  I definately
 need
  help learning about flash photogragphy.  Any
 reference
  out there on the web?
 
  Thanks in advance for any help!
  Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
  http://sports.yahoo.com/
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Re: bokeh

2002-03-21 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Brotherhood
of
Kooky
Equipment
Hoarders



--

---
Get over it.
Dr. Laura

--
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread mike wilson

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Don't even remind me. A Tamron 300mm f2.8 sheared off the bush from a Gitzo
 monopod this way, entailing cracked front element, totally buggered hood,
 cracked motordrive, and a few minor scuffs to the camera. Once in a lifetime
 is once too often for me.

Er, gulp!  OK, I'm convinced.

mike
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread mike wilson

Hi,

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 In a message dated 21/03/02 11:44:51 GMT Standard Time, Mike writes:
 
  I've done this for a while with my Tamron (does no-one in the UK
  have big _Pentax_ glass?)  
 
 Mike. Someone does, now.

Pray tell, whoever you are.  Hope it's coming to the PDML
meet...
m
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Re: Got it, finally.

2002-03-21 Thread Antti-Pekka Virjonen

At 07:40 21.3.2002 -0500, you wrote:
Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

Cool ;-)

Antti-Pekka

---
* Antti-Pekka Virjonen * Fiskarsinkatu 7 D   * GSM: +358 400 789753 *
* Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 2 413  *
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RE: bokeh

2002-03-21 Thread Rob Brigham

Buy
Off
K
E
H
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a new family arrival... somewhat screwey!

2002-03-21 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Hi,
   I just got a very nicely looking Pentax SP1000 with supposedly
   nonfunct. meter for a nice sum (at least here, comparing Spotmatic
   prices) of ~33$/40E ... What a beauty! I now wish all my cameras
   had hot-shoe-less prisms...

   for few family pictures, see
   www.volny.cz/fotof/tech/family
   The SP1000 sports a mounted 1.8/80 Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar, really
   superb glass, the K2DMD sports a 2.8/180 Olympia Sonnar, the LX a
   SMC F 1.4/50 ... It's also a picture of Pentax-Zeiss connection
   (well, if you count Zeiss Jena into the CZ),
   these two companies cooperated a lot in the 70s, resulting in
   (according to some) K mount and several lens designs made together,
   as well as T*/SMC (it was perhaps a sign of what later came with
   Zeiss-Kyocera). Which one came first depends on which expert
   you ask (meaning which side he is on), but damn - I don't give a
   dime who was first. The connection is nice enough! Now I can use
   all my CZJ M42 glass without any stupid ugly adapters!

Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: Got it, finally.

2002-03-21 Thread Fred

 Those cute little letters.

 Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

Congratulations, Collin.  73,

Fred W, K1FW
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Re: R: March 2002 PUG Comments (and a Question)

2002-03-21 Thread Evan Hanson

Fabio,
Do you use a browser to view the photos before you send
them.  I've found there is often a slight difference in how
my pictures look when I view them with photo imaging
software (gimp or photoshop) and browsers.  I don't know why
this is but if I had to make a guess I would think it
probably has something to do with how they read the jpg
compression.  Maybe someone with more technical expertise
can shed some light on this.

Evan


 
 Thank you Ed
 
 but the scanned image I sent wasn't so dark!
 My pictures on the PUG are *always* darker and/or more satured than the pics
 I submit.  Does anyone know what can I to do to avoid it?
 Thanks in advance
 Ciao
 Fabio
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Re: UK PDMLers

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

Pentax UK have some demo big glass - I'm sure they'd like to bring it along 
for you guys to play with

Kind regards

Peter

I'm onto it.

Cotty

___
Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Check out the UK Macintosh ads 
http://www.macads.co.uk
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Re: Re: Got it, finally.

2002-03-21 Thread David Brooks

dot dot dash dash etc etc.
Good job

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: Antti-Pekka Virjonen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:59:07 +0200
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Got it, finally.


At 07:40 21.3.2002 -0500, you wrote:
Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

Cool ;-)

Antti-Pekka

---
* Antti-Pekka Virjonen * Fiskarsinkatu 7 D       * GSM: +358 400 
789753 *
* Computec Oy Turku    * FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 2 413 
 *
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Got it, finally.

2002-03-21 Thread Bill Owens

Congratulations!!

Bill  KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 7:40 AM
Subject: Got it, finally.


 Those cute little letters.
 
 --
 
 Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA
 
 ---
 Get over it.
 Dr. Laura
 
 --
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RE: Got it, finally.

2002-03-21 Thread Alan Abbott

Well done
Alan de G1GOP

 -Original Message-
 From: Collin Brendemuehl [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 12:41 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Got it, finally.
 
 
 Those cute little letters.
 
 --
 
 Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA
 
 ---
 Get over it.
 Dr. Laura
 
 --
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Re: R: March 2002 PUG Comments (and a Question)

2002-03-21 Thread Doug Franklin

On Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:16:56 -0500, Evan Hanson wrote:

 [...] often a slight difference [...] with photo imaging
 software (gimp or photoshop) and browsers.  [...]

I don't know for sure, but I suspect that it is due to differences in
the dithering algorithm used to convert the real number values for
colors that come out of the (DCT) algorithm of the compression into
integer color values and apportion the color error among the other
pixels of the image.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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RE: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread dave o'brien

On Thu, 21 Mar 2002, Malcolm Smith wrote:
 Thank you for this posting. I have been so unsure as to which MF Pentax to
 save up for, but I now think the 67II will suit me fine.
 
 I must say I am still quite shocked at the cost of them; as I will only be
 able to afford one lens to go with the body, I assume I should get the
 equivalent to a 50mm for an LX(?).

The standard lens for the 6x7 is the 105/2.4 - most second hand 6x7s have 
this attached.  It's got a nice feel and is easy to focus.  For wide 
angle, the 55/3.5 is the older model and probably cheaper then the f4.0.  
It's got an enormous front element, though.(100mm or so)  That's about 
28mm in 35mm terms. The 45 is about 22-ish in 35mm terms.
 
There's a 75 (about 35mm) which can usually be quite cheap.

I picked up a 6x7+105/2.5 for about HKD 4,000 a few years ago.  That's 
roughly GBP 400.  You may find a trip to HK pays for itself...

dave
-- 
dave o'brien - http://www.diaspoir.net
He who loses, wins the race,
And parallel lines meet in space.
-- John Boyd, Last Starship from Earth
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Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5

2002-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Wednesday, March 20, 2002, at 02:00  AM, David A. Mann wrote:

  I could just imagine you giving your wedding photographer a detailed
 critique of every shot.

  I hope you've hired someone with a Pentax 6x7 g.

Nope...I hired based on his pictures.  ;)  Also, I personally don't 
think that the Pentax 67 is a great wedding camera unless you're 
sporting one of the leaf shutter lenses.

Seriously, though, he's someone I knew from school (he was a year ahead 
of me at Sheridan), and whose wedding stuff I really like.  He likes to 
shoot high speed 35mm bw reportage-style stuff, and I quite like it.  
He's going to shoot colour formals (dunno if we're going to do those 
medium format or not, probably should), and bw for the ceremony and 
reception and candids.

He shoots Nikon.  Yeah, I know, but I like his results.  ;)

-Aaron
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Re: OT: Somehow I was unsubscribed...

2002-03-21 Thread Doug Brewer

It's very simple. Beginning about 11:30 last night, everything sent to your 
fud account bounced back to me, so about 8:30 this morning I unsubbed the 
account.

Doug



At 09:34 AM 3/21/02 -0500, you wrote:
So, there was no mail from PDML after 11:30 last night.  I decided to 
subscribe another account ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) to see what would 
happen, and it worked, but still no mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  I ask 
majordomo to unsubscribe [EMAIL PROTECTED] and the major tells me I'm not 
subscribed.

What happened?

The major will reply to unsubscribe requests from [EMAIL PROTECTED] (telling 
me that address isn't subscribed), but seems to be ignoring subscribe 
requests from that address.

Eek!

-Aaron
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For sale

2002-03-21 Thread Carl Bowden

I have a P30T body for sale. In perfect condition except for a couple of very
tiny blemishes on the film door. Has had hardly any use. It works well but is
surplus to my requirements.

I'll also include some Cokin filters and accessories that I don't use. Please
contact me off-list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested.

Thanks
Carl
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Re: Re: Re: Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-21 Thread David Brooks

Opps,sorry Steve,i forgot it came with all the other
gear mine did not.
I did it like our military works,buy the bullets then
fiqure out what gun they go with :)

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: Steve Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 06:33:31 -0800
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: Flash Delima-Please Help


Hi Dave,
 When you factor in both adapters, case, manual, and
mint condition, I think the $150 is an OK price. I would
do it. You could search ebay till you find the same thing,
but it would probably be a long search.
 I like your strategy though, buy a camera for the flash ;),
I`ll keep that in mind for the war department.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
 From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 5:22 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Flash Delima-Please Help


Hi Steve.
If thats $150 USd i'd say its steep too.I recently
bought a used AF280T, i'm in Canada, for $100 USd
with case but no manual.Got one form Pentax Canada
at n/c.
Nice flash,good results from the few times
i'v used it.Tooka few inside at night bounce shots
of my cats,no burn,nice picture.
I don't find it big or bulky,especially
after using the Vivitar 285 HV on the D1.
I bought a Super Program to go with the flash BTW.

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: Steve Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 04:46:23 -0800
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Flash Delima-Please Help


Hi Steve,
$150 is a little steep, but since everything is included, if it
were me, I`d go for it. Later on you can try the Hot Shoe Grip
with bracket and the 4P Sync Cord B, it`s an excellent set
up for off camera flash work. The 4P Sync Cord B comes in
two lengths, one meter, and three meter.
 Pentax did not make a diffuser for the AF200T, as there are no
slots for it to slide on.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
 From: Steve Pearson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Flash Delima-Please Help


Thanks for the input. Maybe I need a difuser for the
AF200T that I have?

Is a used AF280T with both the wide angle  the tele
adaptors for $150 a good price? It appears to be in
excellent condition with cases  manual.

Thanks for any suggestions!


--- Steve Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi Steve,
 The AF200T is a great little flash, but don`t
 expect it to cover
 a lot of range. The AF280T is substantially more
 powerful,
 will have a lot more reach, plus it tilts and
 swivels, has adapters
 for wide and tele, the wide adapter is always used
 on mine when
 shooting people, it`s kind of like a diffuser. Don`t
 rule out the
 AF400T, all you need to use it on a Super P is a 4P
 Sync Cord B,
 check them out on Boz`s page at:
 http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/
 The AF400T also has the wide and tele adapters, can
 be used
 with an external battery pack, and it is quite
 powerful.
 Steve Larson
 Redondo Beach, California
 - Original Message -
 From: Steve Pearson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:52 PM
 Subject: Flash Delima-Please Help


  I currently own a Super Program  have a Pentax
 AF200
  flash  a Vivitar 283 flash. I primarily use the
 283
  for Professional jobs, with a Lumiquest bounce
 card.
  It seems that lately the pictures are a bit
  overexposed. I'm giving some thought to buying a
  Pentax AF280T. Can anyone tell me what to expect.

  Will the 280 provide a noticeable difference? Can
 I
  expect better results due to TTL? I have not been
  real happy with the 200, but maybe it's just too
  under-powered?
 
  Your help is greatly appreciated. I definately
 need
  help learning about flash photogragphy. Any
 reference
  out there on the web?
 
  Thanks in advance for any help!
  Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
  http://sports.yahoo.com/
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

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This message 

Re: Graywolf's Site

2002-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds

Tom, are you unsharp masking at all?  The images seem a touch soft.

-Aaron
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Re: 50mm F1.2A

2002-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, March 21, 2002, at 09:21  AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Bahahahaha...
 Look who's talking Mr 
 I'll-Hook-You-Up-With-Everything-You-Need-To-Develop- 
 Your-Own-Film ;-)

Please, do not attempt to point out my own hypocrisy, or I shall be 
forced to squeeze my eyes shut and cover my ears and shout, LA LA LA 
at the top of my lungs until you go away.

-Aaron

;)
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Re: Somehow I was unsubscribed...

2002-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, March 21, 2002, at 09:46  AM, Rob Brigham wrote:

 Dont get paranoid.  If the new address gets unsubscribed, then maybe we
 dont like you anymore!

HAR!  It was a conspiracy by the Legion of Large Format!

The major seems to have regained his senses somewhat, but I'm curious to 
know how the initial unsubscribe came about.  If passport is bouncing 
some of my mail, that would be a real problem.

-Aaron
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RE: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Without a pivoting head of some sort, you can't shoot verticals. 

Moreover, the recommemded stance for holding a monopd is to brace it toward you at an 
angle. In effect, it and your two legs become a tripod. A head lets you tilt the 
monopod in this way and still shoot sraight ahead.

Rob Brigham wrote: 

I fail to see how adding an extra joint could do anything apart from make the pod less 
stable anyway.  Unless you want a little extra height, or MUST have a quick release 
(why on a monopod?) then a head seems pointless. 


[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: Somehow I was unsubscribed...

2002-03-21 Thread Brendan

Conspiracy of small format Aaron 

--- Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 On Thursday, March 21, 2002, at 09:46  AM, Rob
 Brigham wrote:
 
  Dont get paranoid.  If the new address gets
 unsubscribed, then maybe we
  dont like you anymore!
 
 HAR!  It was a conspiracy by the Legion of Large
 Format!
 
 The major seems to have regained his senses
 somewhat, but I'm curious to 
 know how the initial unsubscribe came about.  If
 passport is bouncing 
 some of my mail, that would be a real problem.
 
 -Aaron
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Re: 50mm F1.2A

2002-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, March 21, 2002, at 09:05  AM, Mick Maguire wrote:

 Aaron wrote:  This list is an evil conspiracy to part me from my 
 money.

 HA! When I first started reading this list I had 3 camera bodies (only 1
 serviceable) and 4 lenses. I now have 5 bodies (3 serviceable), 10 
 lenses, 2
 flashes (with all adapters), countless filters, battery grips, cables 
 and
 now a fully operational BW darkroom... And I'm *still* lusting after 
 new
 stuff... Trouble is said stuff is getting dearer all the time...

I had a screwmount body and three lenses, and shortly after I joined I 
picked up a K-mount body and two lenses for it.

Now I have all that stuff, another five K-mount lenses, another two 
screwmount lenses, two more K mount bodies, a 67 body and two 67 lenses.

AAGH!

 there really should be a warning on the list signup about this.

I agree.  Let's write it.  ;)

DISCLAIMER: By joining the PDML, you acknowledge that you will be 
exposed to glowing reviews of expensive pieces of camera equipment that 
you will invariably lust after, and agree not to hold the list 
maintainers responsible for your inevitable financial ruin.

-Aaron
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Re: OT: Somehow I was unsubscribed...

2002-03-21 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, March 21, 2002, at 09:55  AM, Doug Brewer wrote:

 It's very simple. Beginning about 11:30 last night, everything sent to 
 your fud account bounced back to me, so about 8:30 this morning I 
 unsubbed the account.

Thanks for the heads-up.  Calling passport now.

-Aaron
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AF500FTZ and TTL

2002-03-21 Thread Hans-Bernhard Beykirch

Is the AF500FTZ flash together with a MZ-3 or Z-1 capable of TTL flash
together with ambient light measuring and the flash set to -1 stop? E.g.
measuring without flash f11 and 1/15 sec, exactly that is used with
flash as fill-in but the flash downrated by 1 stop.

Regards

Bernd
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Re[2]: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Bruce Dayton

Malcolm,

I really love my 67II.  If you are just going to start with one lens
for awhile - I would choose either the 75/2.8 or the 90/2.8.  The 75
is close to a 35mm and the 90 is close to a 45mm.  If cost is a
concern, go with the 90 as it can be had used easily.  The 75 is a new
lens so there aren't any/many on the used market.


Brother Bruce



Thursday, March 21, 2002, 1:56:26 AM, you wrote:

 6) I have read that mirror and shutter vibration are a big problem
 with the Pentax 67 bodies.  An article on The Luminous Landscape
   http://www.luminous-landscape.com/pentax67ii.htm
 shows multiple images on photographs with Pentax 67 gear because the
 shutter and the mirror shake the camera so badly.   On the other
 hand, the PDML photographers have been getting excellent results.
 What's up?

MS Thank you for this posting. I have been so unsure as to which MF Pentax to
MS save up for, but I now think the 67II will suit me fine.

MS I must say I am still quite shocked at the cost of them; as I will only be
MS able to afford one lens to go with the body, I assume I should get the
MS equivalent to a 50mm for an LX(?).

MS My home town is on a spree of demolition of historic buildings, and items of
MS interest, like original railway signal boxes, and I would like to record
MS them on a bigger format - which reminds me, I also need a good tripod (my
MS last one demised, but only cost £20), any recommendations anyone?

MS Malcolm
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Re: New Tokina 60-120mm f/2.8 and 28-70mm f/2.8

2002-03-21 Thread Fred

 Tokina has also shown a prototype of the AF 60-120mm f/2.8 AT-X at
 the PhotoExpo 2002 in Japan.

Do you know any more details on it, or know of any links with
details to it?  It ~could~ be a really interesting lens.  I do know
that the manual focus Tokina AT-X 60-120/2.8 is a ~great~ portrait
lens, but I am going to assume that the new lens' optical design may
be different from the one-touch focus/zoom ring setup on the MF
version.

Fred
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RE: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Rob Brigham

OK, maybe I can see it in some circumstances.  But this must hinder
framing - if you are using long lenses, then shooting in this way would
make it impossible to point the lens accurately - unless you had a waist
level finder.  Also, many long lenses come with a tripod collar which
would allow verticals anyway.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: 21 March 2002 15:25
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: A few quick release questions
 
 
 Without a pivoting head of some sort, you can't shoot verticals. 
 
 Moreover, the recommemded stance for holding a monopd is to 
 brace it toward you at an angle. In effect, it and your two 
 legs become a tripod. A head lets you tilt the monopod in 
 this way and still shoot sraight ahead.
 
 Rob Brigham wrote: 
 
 I fail to see how adding an extra joint could do anything 
 apart from make the pod less stable anyway.  Unless you want 
 a little extra height, or MUST have a quick release (why on a 
 monopod?) then a head seems pointless. 
 
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 mail2web - Check your email from the web at
 http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: AF500FTZ and TTL

2002-03-21 Thread Brendan

Yup, on the MZ-3 you have to manually set the ambient
light exposure and then dial -1 on the exposure
compensation dial, turn the flash on and it will fire
-1 . I'm not sure about the Z-1 but it doesn't work on
th PZ-20 that way.

--- Hans-Bernhard Beykirch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Is the AF500FTZ flash together with a MZ-3 or Z-1
 capable of TTL flash
 together with ambient light measuring and the flash
 set to -1 stop? E.g.
 measuring without flash f11 and 1/15 sec, exactly
 that is used with
 flash as fill-in but the flash downrated by 1 stop.
 
 Regards
 
 Bernd
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 21/03/02 14:34:45 GMT Standard Time, Mike writes:

 In a message dated 21/03/02 11:44:51 GMT Standard Time, Mike writes:
  
   I've done this for a while with my Tamron (does no-one in the UK
   have big _Pentax_ glass?)  
  
  Mike. Someone does, now.
 
 Pray tell, whoever you are.  Hope it's coming to the PDML
 meet... 

I don't think he's on the list. 

KR

Peter  
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Re: Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-21 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 21/03/02 14:34:45 GMT Standard Time, Steve writes:

 Pentax did not make a diffuser for the AF200T, as there are no
 slots for it to slide on.
 Steve Larson 

They are hidden on the two long sides. Think it's an AFW1. 



KR

Peter
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Re[2]: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Bruce Dayton

Rob,

The biggest use for a head on a monopod is for shooting verticals when
the lens doesn't have a tripod mount.  There are many times that I
take the head off mine when the lens in use already has a good tripod
mount.


Bruce Dayton



Thursday, March 21, 2002, 6:15:04 AM, you wrote:

RB I fail to see how adding an extra joint could do anything apart from
RB make the pod less stable anyway.  Unless you want a little extra height,
RB or MUST have a quick release (why on a monopod?) then a head seems
RB pointless.
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Re: OT: Somehow I was unsubscribed...

2002-03-21 Thread Doug Brewer

Just to clarify things a little, the good major has no automatic 
unsubscribe function. It does not care if you are subbed or not. If mail 
bounces, majordomo just routes it to me with the error message attached. I 
then decide if it's a short term problem (a busy signal, if you will), or 
something more substantial.

In Aaron's case, for example, everything over a nearly nine hour period was 
returned to me, which indicates a substantial glitch. I have no way of 
knowing it is going to get rectified soon, so to keep from having to 
download/store/examine more and more bounced mail, I chose to unsub the 
account and move on to the next problem.

It's always a judgement call. Sometimes I let it slide, if the ISP has a 
history of instability, like msn, which can't seem to figure out how to 
deliver email, and I know it will be back up eventually. But if I get a 
full mailbox notice from an account, I nuke it as fast as my little fingers 
can type, because I'm about to get an avalanche of returns if I don't.

You know what's really fun? Sometimes a list member will subscribe an 
account to the PDML, forward the PDML traffic to a separate account, then 
ignore it. The forward account fills up and starts bouncing mail back to 
the major, which then dutifully sends it to me. I then get to absorb myself 
in the joyous task of figuring out who the account belongs to. Good times.

Occasionally, I'll get notices sent to my account telling me that messages 
sent to my account are not getting throughwhich makes me go, h...

There is also a particular ISP in Wisconsin that routinely goes haywire...a 
domain in China which doesn't work more than it does work...etc, etc, etc. 
Don't get me started.

I guess my point is that if you get unsubbed, it's because something 
happened with your account, or with the path to your account, and the 
backwash is drowning me.

Doug



At 10:00 AM 3/21/02 -0500, you wrote:
Aaron.This has happened to my canoemail account
twice so far this year.I subscribed to my inter.net
account as a back up.
It also did it to me twice near christmas last
year too.
Now i open up both accounts and if i have mail in both
i delete all from one and go into the other to read
just incase it boots me again.
Hooked or what.
BTW the IR film is in the S3

Dave
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mf 70-200 f 4 owners

2002-03-21 Thread David Brooks

I am considering replacing my 80-200 f 4.5/5.6 mf
zoom with the 70-200 f4 mf.I know that this lens
pops up in topics every so often but:are you as
owners/users happy with the quality,optics and build?
I'd like to hear your feed back.I saw one on the net
for $199 Can d and may go look at it for the K1000 and
SP.Main use,horseys.
Off list response is fine.

Dave


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: 50mm F1.2A

2002-03-21 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 21/03/02 14:34:45 GMT Standard Time, Aaron writes:

 You are evil.  This list is an evil conspiracy to part me from my money.
 
 - -Aaron 

Credit where credit's due.

Kind regards
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Re: Somehow I was unsubscribed...

2002-03-21 Thread gfen

On Thu, 21 Mar 2002, Aaron Reynolds wrote:
 HAR!  It was a conspiracy by the Legion of Large Format!

Is this a size envy thing? ;)

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 The destructive character is cheerful.  - Walter Benjamin
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Re: AF500FTZ and TTL

2002-03-21 Thread Bruce Dayton

Hans-Bernhard,

If you want the no hassle approach, the Z-1p allows you to set the
amount of flash fill and then you can shoot away.  I believe the MZ-3
is a bit more fiddley but can be done.  You have to fool the flash by
manually setting exposure and then dialing in the amount of
compensation you want.  Your meter will read off by that amount.


Bruce Dayton



Thursday, March 21, 2002, 7:32:30 AM, you wrote:

HBB Is the AF500FTZ flash together with a MZ-3 or Z-1 capable of TTL flash
HBB together with ambient light measuring and the flash set to -1 stop? E.g.
HBB measuring without flash f11 and 1/15 sec, exactly that is used with
HBB flash as fill-in but the flash downrated by 1 stop.

HBB Regards

HBB Bernd
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread T Rittenhouse

Especially for verticals I imagine.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: wendy beard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: A few quick release questions


 At 06:43 21-3-2002 -0500, you wrote:
 So, what I did was simply remove the quick release head from the monopod,
 and mount the 300 2.8 straight onto the head mounting bush. Actual
 shooting isn't a problem, it's the carrying. I decided I like to pop the
 combo onto my shoulder, camera/lens facing backwards, with the monopod
 leg down my chest where I can steady it with a hand. I found that this
 works very well, and my only worry was the whole thing coming detached
 and falling. Attaching directly to the bush was the simplest solution,
 and the fact that it takes 30 seconds or so to unscrew/ rescrew the quick
 release head for other lens combos doesn't bother me.
 
 .02
 
 Cotty

 When I bought my monopod in the local shop I also asked for advice on
heads
 for it. I'd taken the camera along too to try it out. The salesman told me
 that, in his opinion, I didn't need one and should just screw the pod
 straight onto the camera. Sent me off to go and try it and if I decided I
 wanted a head on it, then of course, he'd sell me one. Not many salsmen
 would do that!
 I did try it and it worked pretty well.

 Wendy

 ---
 Wendy Beard
 Ottawa, Canada
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 home page http://www.beard-redfern.com
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FS: Tokina AT-X 235 AF Pro

2002-03-21 Thread Bruce Dayton

This is the 20-35 constant aperture f:2.8 pro grade zoom. The AT-X
235AF PRO lens uses the latest in lens development technology, using 2
(the front and rear) molded, multicoated aspherical elements which are
created through a collaboration with Hoya Corporation, the world
largest manufacturer of optical glass. This lens also features the
exclusive Focus Clutch Mechanism. As with all the lenses in Tokina
AT-X AF series, the AT-X 235 AF PRO is constructed using all aluminum
lens barrels and a chrome plated brass mount plate. The lens elements
are made of higher quality HLD (high refraction, low dispersion) glass
for higher resolution and contrast.

The lens is quite new, shows no signs of use other than mounting on
the camera. It is the latest version Tokina ATX Pro AF lens and comes
with both caps, hood and soft padded zippered case. The new price from
BH is US $600. I have lowered the asking price to US $400.

I am working on building up my 67 lenses and am starting to sell off
items that I don't use so much.  I find that I mostly use primes and
just don't put much use on the zooms.



 Bruce Dayton
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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Mark Roberts

Wendy Beard wrote:

 When I bought my monopod in the local shop I also asked for advice on
 heads for it. I'd taken the camera along too to try it out. The salesman
 told me that, in his opinion, I didn't need one and should just screw
the
 pod straight onto the camera. Sent me off to go and try it and if I 
 decided I wanted a head on it, then of course, he'd sell me one. Not many
 salsmen would do that!
 I did try it and it worked pretty well.

I tried a head on my monopod at first but I've found I only use the monopod
with my 80-200 or my 300, lenses that have rotating tripod mounts, so I've
pretty much given up on it now.



-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1

2002-03-21 Thread Joseph Tainter

Tom, do you mean that it pops more then the usual ads on a page?

I'm using NS 4.7 - haven't upgraded because of all the bad things I
keep hearing about 6.x. Still, web site designers always assume that we
all have the latest browers (including the designers of
mail-archive.com, where I read PDML). So eventually I'll have to abandon
4.7.

When I installed 4.7 it would download an ad every time I checked my
mail. I e-mailed Netscape to complain, and to my surprise someone
answered and told me how to turn that off. If you are getting extra ads,
perhaps there's a way to turn them off.

Please let us know. I find MS softwhere intolerably annoying and avoid
it as much as possible. And the problem is getting worse.

Thanks,

Joe
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Re: Good buy or staw away?

2002-03-21 Thread Patrick White

Any thoguhts on this camera?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1340399382
Are there potential problems, either current or in the
future?
If I am correct, the top is expensive to replace (but not difficult). I'd
say $200 is the absolute maximum for it.

When an LCD panel gets cracked, it generally shows black areas around the
crack, even when off.  This crack looks to me like it may be only in the top
cover.  However, the shock that caused the crack might have loosened the
connections to the LCD.  One also has to wonder if there might be some more
subtle problem as a result of the shock (like the lens mount might not be
straight anymore).  If there is time, at the very least have them send you a
picture of the camera turned on so you can verify that at least some of the
LCD segments work.
In any case, it might be worthwhile verifying with the seller that you can
return the camera for a full refund if there are any subtle hidden problems
(or perhaps, if for any reason you don't like it?).  If they are reputable
and will give you that guarantee, then it could be a bargain.

hope that helps,
patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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Re: Re: OT: Somehow I was unsubscribed...

2002-03-21 Thread David Brooks

Thanks Doug for clearing that up.

Dave


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

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Re: 67 300mm f/4 vs A* 300/4 and SMCP 135/2.5

2002-03-21 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 21-Mar-02 7:44:15 AM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 On Wednesday, March 20, 2002, at 04:54  AM, mike wilson wrote:
 
  It's a worldwide conspiracy.  I am also banned from turning up
  on a motorcycle.  Or my best man's Morgan 3 wheeler.
 
 We're driving from the church to the reception in a lovely '72 Karmann 
 Ghia convertible.
 
Thinking back many years:
I never considered taking a camera to my own wedding.
However, fiance did say I couldn't wear my comfortable, well-broken-in cowboy 
boots (like anyone would see them under the dress!
I arrived at the church in a large, user-condition early-1970s Cadillac. 
(Property of matron-of-honour.)
He arrived in a primer-coloured 1966 Chevy truck. (Everyday vehicle of best 
man.)
Wedding photos shot with Minoltas -- courtesy of best photo friend.

Uh  I took the ME Super on our honeymoon and brought home many lovely 
Texas Hill Country images from that!

ERNR

My photographs hang on the virtual walls at
http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-21 Thread Steve Pearson

According to the owner's manual for the AF200T, Pentax
did make a wide-angle  a tele adaptor.  It would seem
that for my use, it would be best to get the tele.  As
I primarily use the 100mm for portraits.  My question
is, what does the AFT1 actually do?  It says in the
manual that it offers a more concentrated light.  Does
this have the same effect as a Lumiquest soft box? 
BTW, Lumiquest does not make a soft box for the
AF2ooT, I think because it's too big and it covers the
sensor.  If anyobody currently uses the AFT1 on an
AF200T, are you happy with the results?  Do the
pictures end up a little softer than without the
adaptor?

Finally, is it better to set the flash to TTL, instead
of the RED or GREEN auto settings?  If so, what are
these settings for?

Thanks again everybody!



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 In a message dated 21/03/02 14:34:45 GMT Standard
 Time, Steve writes:
 
  Pentax did not make a diffuser for the AF200T, as
 there are no
  slots for it to slide on.
  Steve Larson 
 
 They are hidden on the two long sides. Think it's
 an AFW1. 
 
 
 
 KR
 
 Peter
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RE: Re: OT: New Epson scanners ?

2002-03-21 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Brendan,

If you want to see even more improvement, download VueScan (if you don't already use 
it).  It's faster, better and more robust than using the Twain software that comes 
with most scanners.  

I believe it may provide better scans than the Silverfast software that comes with the 
Epsons.

Cheers,
Dave

(oh http://www.hamrick.com for vuescan)

snip
Actually I need to retact what I said about the Epson
1680 before. I just got the new drivers for XP and the
scan quality has improved greatly. This was the first
test with the new drivers and the out of focus
problems are gone, this scan was only reduce in size,
no unsharp mask or colour correction nothing.

http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini/flowers2/por.jpg
/snip




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RE: Re[2]: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Malcolm Smith

Thanks Bruce,

I also read your informative reply to Bolo. Now I need a constructive
arguement to put funds away, for what will be known as PDML syndrome - yet
another *** camera.

Malcolm


 Malcolm,

 I really love my 67II.  If you are just going to start with one lens
 for awhile - I would choose either the 75/2.8 or the 90/2.8.  The 75
 is close to a 35mm and the 90 is close to a 45mm.  If cost is a
 concern, go with the 90 as it can be had used easily.  The 75 is a new
 lens so there aren't any/many on the used market.


 Brother Bruce
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RE: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Malcolm Smith

Thanks Dave,

All noted. I have had a quick look at UK prices (swallows hard) and wonder
if camera shop websites abroad or my wife's enemy eBay will be worth a look.

If I don't try another format now, I never will, but I'm not trying a
different manufacturer!

Malcolm


 The standard lens for the 6x7 is the 105/2.4 - most second hand 6x7s have
 this attached.  It's got a nice feel and is easy to focus.  For wide
 angle, the 55/3.5 is the older model and probably cheaper then the f4.0.
 It's got an enormous front element, though.(100mm or so)  That's about
 28mm in 35mm terms. The 45 is about 22-ish in 35mm terms.

 There's a 75 (about 35mm) which can usually be quite cheap.

 I picked up a 6x7+105/2.5 for about HKD 4,000 a few years ago.  That's
 roughly GBP 400.  You may find a trip to HK pays for itself...
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Re: mf 70-200 f 4 owners

2002-03-21 Thread Fred

 I am considering replacing my 80-200 f 4.5/5.6 mf zoom with the
 70-200 f4 mf. I know that this lens pops up in topics every so
 often but: are you as owners/users happy with the quality, optics
 and build? I'd like to hear your feed back. I saw one on the net
 for $199 Can d and may go look at it for the K1000 and SP. Main
 use, horseys. Off list response is fine.

Hi, Dave.

Just to clarify:  Are you really talking about the various non-SMC
Pentax-A/Takumar-A/CPC/Cosmicar (etc.) 70-200/4 mf lenses, or did
you actually mean to refer to the SMC Pentax-A 70-210/4 ?

I think that $199 CDN might be too much for the non-SMC 70-200/4's,
but might be OK for the SMC 70-210/4 if it's in really good shape.

Fred
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Re: Flash Delima-Please Help

2002-03-21 Thread Rfsindg

Steve,

The tele adaptor is all mechanical, a 1.5x2.5 inch box that slides over the flash 
tubes.  It is about 1.5 inches deep with a flat plastic fresnel lens on the front.  It 
simply focuses the light rays into a more narrow beam.  I think it is typically a 
135mm focus.

I don't think this is what you need for 100mm lens portraits.  Something like the wide 
angle adapter may give you light bounced off the room.  I'd try the rubbing alcohol 
bottle or plastic milk carton as a diffuser.  Something to spread that light for a 
bounce.

You should always use the TTL setting on your flash with the Super Program.  This 
measures the light after moving thru your lens and into your camera body.  In effect, 
it knows whether you are using a 100mm or a 24mm lens on the camera and adjusts the 
output of the flash.  With the red and green settings, you measure the light bounced 
back to the flash body and turn off the flash there... no adjusting for that 100mm 
lens!  These settings are available so you can use the flash with 'dumb' cameras that 
don't have Thru-The-Lens flash sensors.

I think Peter at Camera Direct correctly points out that the appropriate accessories 
are the AFW1  AFT1.

Regards,  Bob S.

You wrote:
According to the owner's manual for the AF200T, Pentax
did make a wide-angle  a tele adaptor.  It would seem
that for my use, it would be best to get the tele.  As
I primarily use the 100mm for portraits.  My question
is, what does the AFT1 actually do?  It says in the
manual that it offers a more concentrated light.  Does
this have the same effect as a Lumiquest soft box? 
BTW, Lumiquest does not make a soft box for the
AF2ooT, I think because it's too big and it covers the
sensor.  If anyobody currently uses the AFT1 on an
AF200T, are you happy with the results?  Do the
pictures end up a little softer than without the
adaptor?

Finally, is it better to set the flash to TTL, instead
of the RED or GREEN auto settings?  If so, what are
these settings for?
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RE: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

Without a pivoting head of some sort, you can't shoot verticals. 

Not on a lens with a rotating mount, Paul. The Tokina has a lovely one 
that clicks into place at 90 degree intervals, and is then tightened.

Moreover, the recommemded stance for holding a monopd is to brace it 
toward you at an angle. In effect, it and your two legs become a tripod. A 
head lets you tilt the monopod in this way and still shoot sraight ahead.

I have to agree with you here: this is how I would tend to use a monopod. 
The only exception would be on soft ground where the foot sinks, so I 
place the foot on the toe of my shoe - better than nothin :-)

I'm set on doing some sort of Ultimate Bastard Strength Monopod Mount. 
I'm talking 5mm steel, 488 hemi and four barrels, buddy. And Steve Larson 
didn't say a word this time...

Cotsweld



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Re: A few quick release questions

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

   I've done this for a while with my Tamron (does no-one in the UK
   have big _Pentax_ glass?)  
  
  Mike. Someone does, now.
 
 Pray tell, whoever you are.  Hope it's coming to the PDML
 meet... 

I don't think he's on the list. 

I would have thought that at the rate we buy kit, it was in your interest 
to point ANY cutomers in this direction!

;-)

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Is there a Photo Expo website?

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

Is there an actual Photo Expo 2002 site? Google kindly provided me with 
this:

http://w3.datanet.hu/~torter/p_a_ind.htm

which is not exactly what I had in mind, Hungarian office furniture...

Cheers,

Cotty

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Re: Is there a Photo Expo website?

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

Ah, found it:

http://www.photoexpo2002.com/

It's in Japanese. Peter?

Arigato,

Cotty

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Re: WTB 5p sync cord Long

2002-03-21 Thread Pat White

Brendan, have you checked the price at Pentax Canada?  They're at 3131 Universal 
Drive, north off Dundas, just west of 427.  You can buy all sorts of stuff, like SMC 
filters, straps, sync cords, PC adapters, and who knows what else.

I stopped by there a few weeks ago to buy a manual for my MZ-S (misplaced it when I 
moved), and they gave me one for free!  The service/sales desk people are very 
friendly and helpful, and they have most things in stock.

When are you doing your model shoot?

Pat White
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RE: Re: Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1

2002-03-21 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Graywolf,

If that's the case, then you'll have to conform your code to spec.
If your code is to spec, then you'll have no problem per se.

For example, at my current employ, we have to ensure that code is appropriate for 
browsers from IE 4.0 and Netscape 4.0 and up.  If the end user is using IE 3.0 (which, 
STILL occurs, trust me...) then they're SOL.
Personally, even IE 4.0 is old and shouldn't be supported but we do bend because many 
of our clients are senior citizens and sometimes feel that they shouldn't need to 
upgrade if they don't want to.  

You can't please the entire world (although most Pentax users would disagree once they 
get their hands on a 50mm f1.4 :)  ) especially when it comes to Web 
design/layout/coding.  

If the page is in standard HTML, you should have no problem as long as you stick to 
spec.  It's once you get into using JSPs, Cold Fusion, and in some cases, even XML or 
ASPs that you'll get into trouble.

Cheers,
Dave

Original Message:
-
From: T Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:54:38 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1


Nope, I want to use the broken browsers. The good ones are going to work ok
if my code is good. The broken ones may not so I have to check it. grin

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



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RE: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

All noted. I have had a quick look at UK prices (swallows hard) and wonder
if camera shop websites abroad or my wife's enemy eBay will be worth a look.

If I don't try another format now, I never will, but I'm not trying a
different manufacturer!

Oh, I've heard that Bronica make a pretty good camera...


bullet proof vest, night vision goggles, diving for cover :-)

Cotty

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Re: 50mm F1.2A

2002-03-21 Thread Cotty

 Credit where credit's due.

Were you indeed taking credit for your part in the conspiracy, or
was that a subliminal use your credit card hint, Peter?  ;-)

(Thanks to you and your goodies there are some decidedly British
divots in my own credit card - g.)

Great Scott, Peter probably knows more about our finances than we do!

I am **sorely** tempted by that 50 1.2 - could be a great short portrait 
lens with a DSLR body.

(Dr Smith in 'Lost in Space': oooh the pain, the pain...)

Cotty

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RE: Is there a Photo Expo website?

2002-03-21 Thread Mick Maguire

Cotty wrote http://www.photoexpo2002.com/;

It is the corner which can experience the enjoyment which develop by your
own hand.

dont you just love babelfish!

Regards,
/\/\ick...
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Re: Searching opinions on SMC M-85/2.0

2002-03-21 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Maciej Marchlewski asked:
 How do you judge this lens? I would like to use it mainly for 
 portraits and some body shots from time to time. 

I have no other 85mm to compare it to, but I can tell you that
I like it a _lot_.  It's my favourite lens.

I'll often reach for a 50mm (or the 35-105/3.5) for full-body
shots, but strongly prefer the 85/2 for faces or head+shoulder
portraits.  Sometimes I'll back up a little and shoot two or
three people's faces together.

-- Glenn
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Re: Re: Graywolf's Site

2002-03-21 Thread David Brooks

Tom.When i send pictures to the Jokers web site after
a show (using save to web)i take the 2000x1320 image,size to
5x7 with constrants etc off so the pixe;s change,and un
sharpen then.They look ok that way.

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: T Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:48:29 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Graywolf's Site


Humm?

I will try that.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message - 
 From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: Graywolf's Site


 Tom, are you sharpening before or after reducing them in size?  I 
would 
 suggest sizing them down, making your adjustments and then 
sharpening 
 last.
 
 -Aaron
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

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AF with manual focus lens???

2002-03-21 Thread Christian Skofteland

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1340415983

In his description he says you can use a manual focus lens on an AF body and
it will autofocus.

Am I missing something?

Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: Re: Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1

2002-03-21 Thread Rick Lamb

Hi Dave,

Just to clarify;  JSPs, Cold Fusion, and ASP are all server side having
nothing to do with the browser. These technologies use server side app
servers to parse it's language into straight html which is then sent to the
browser.

Rick

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 1:40 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Re: Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1


Graywolf,

If that's the case, then you'll have to conform your code to spec.
If your code is to spec, then you'll have no problem per se.

For example, at my current employ, we have to ensure that code is
appropriate for browsers from IE 4.0 and Netscape 4.0 and up.  If the end
user is using IE 3.0 (which, STILL occurs, trust me...) then they're SOL.
Personally, even IE 4.0 is old and shouldn't be supported but we do bend
because many of our clients are senior citizens and sometimes feel that they
shouldn't need to upgrade if they don't want to.

You can't please the entire world (although most Pentax users would disagree
once they get their hands on a 50mm f1.4 :)  ) especially when it comes to
Web design/layout/coding.

If the page is in standard HTML, you should have no problem as long as you
stick to spec.  It's once you get into using JSPs, Cold Fusion, and in some
cases, even XML or ASPs that you'll get into trouble.

Cheers,
Dave

Original Message:
-
From: T Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:54:38 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1


Nope, I want to use the broken browsers. The good ones are going to work ok
if my code is good. The broken ones may not so I have to check it. grin

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



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RE: Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1

2002-03-21 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] suggested:
 You guys both may want to try Opera.

A lot of my paying work involves web research.  After Nutscrape
crashed on me one time too many, losing my place among several
open pages, I downloaded Opera.

It's more stable.
When it _does_ crash, it has a pick up where you left off feature.
It has additional features I find directly useful in my work.
It has some less-important features that are still a lot of fun.[*]

The first time I clicked on a folder containing 122 bookmarks
and told it open all items in folder, and it popped up 122
windows at once and filled them without crashing, I sent in my
money for a registered copy.  That was version 4.0.  I'm using
6.01 now under WinNT and 5.0 under Linux.

For the few pages that have bizarre Opera glitches, I've got
Nutscrape 4.something and Internet Exploder 5 that were on the
Windows boxes when I got 'em, and some version of Nutscrape on
one of my Linux machines.  I've left Javascript enabled in one
copy of Netscape for those rare times when I really need to
access a site that requires Javacsript, for a job-related
research task -- any other site that requires Javascript doesn't
get me as a reader.[**]  I wind up using Lynx and Links more
often than Netscape or Internet Explorer.

 Opera seems to be the only browser (in recent memory) that does
 actually conform to proper spec laid out by the W3C.

Once I get my Mac working again, I'll be using both Opera and
iCab on it.  With iCab, it'll show you a little smiley face if
the page you're looking at actually conforms to the HTML spec,
and for the other 99.5% of the pages out there, it'll tell you
what they did wrong if you want.

As for continuing to use broken browsers for testing your own
pages to see whether they'll work for Most People, well yeah,
that's a really good idea for exactly that:  testing.  But I got
tired of relying on them to get work other than testing my own
pages done.

I'm sure there are other good browsers out there besides iCab
and Opera.  I found a couple that do what I need and stopped
looking.

-- Glenn

[*] Mouse gestures!  Wiggle the mouse a particular way, and it
opens the link under the mouse in a new window.  Wiggle it a
different way and it does the same thing as clicking the back
button, etc.  This is cool; this is fun; it amuses me.  It's a
_little_ bit useful from an ergonomic standpoint.  And yes, it
can be turned off.

[**] I trust Java more than Javascript, because Java, despite
the occasional security hole, is _designed_ to be safe[***]; whereas
Javascript was designed to get around the limitations that
Java's security model imposed.  An exploit using Java is a bug;
allowing untrusted code[] to scribble on your system is a
part of Javascript's design.  Though it hasn't been seen much in
the wild _yet_, there's malware in the lab that can erase
Windows and install Linux just from surfing to a website
containing it.[*]

[***] Standalone Java programs can do all sorts of stuff, but
Java applets, which are what you can send as part of a web
page, are supposed to be restricted to a security sandbox:
they get to make whatever mess in a restricted environment that
can't touch the rest of your computer ... or at least that's the
design -- bugs happen.

[] Exact definition depends on how paranoid^H^H^H^H^H^H^H
careful a sysadmin you are.  Strictly, untrusted code is
anything I didn't either write myself or carefully check all the
source code for and then recompile on my own system.  More
realistically, software purchased from or downloaded from
sources you trust not to include Trojan horses or back doors and
to be careful enough not to be infected with viri or worms would
be included in the trusted category.  The program
automatically executed when you visit Joe Random's website is
untrusted code in any case, at least until you walk the code by
hand to check it out.

[*] Okay, so the user would have to be awfully patient while
this was being done -- the point is that if you can do that with
Javascript, you can do a lot of quicker but serious harm with
malware written in Javascript.
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RE: AF with manual focus lens???

2002-03-21 Thread Mick Maguire

Christian wrote: Am I missing something?

Nope, it does what he says. the adapter provides the focusing.

Regards,
/\/\ick... 
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RE: 67 Mania gaining foothold, victim needs help!

2002-03-21 Thread Malcolm Smith

 Oh, I've heard that Bronica make a pretty good camera...


 bullet proof vest, night vision goggles, diving for cover :-)

 Cotty

 ___

Heard being the keyword! I've used Pentax for nearly two and a half
decades, why change with such a good reliable manufacturer?

Plus I like the larger 35mm camera looks, with the 67 series, rather than a
small box!

No need for the protective clothing :-)

Malcolm
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Re: 50mm F1.2A

2002-03-21 Thread gfen

On Thu, 21 Mar 2002, Cotty wrote:
 I am **sorely** tempted by that 50 1.2 - could be a great short portrait
 lens with a DSLR body.

I think I've been buying a new 50mm lens every other month, each time a
half stop quicker than the last (f2, 1.7, 1.4).

I just picked up an f1.4 from a list member, and then this comes along. I
almost feel like I should buy one to keep up the tradition.

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 The destructive character is cheerful.  - Walter Benjamin
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Re: mf 70-200 f 4 owners

2002-03-21 Thread Fred

 Hi Fred. Yes the add said A 70-200 f4. I have yet to see it
 though. Sorry i forgot my mind is hard to read :)

No need to be sorry, Dave - what you said was what you meant.  g

However, what I said before is still valid:  I think that $199 CDN
might be too much for the non-SMC 70-200/4's.  I do think that you
certainly should be able to get a jen-you-wine SMC 70-210/4 for that
price (or less).  While reports on the non-SMC 70-200/4's have been
pretty favorable, I personally think you would be better off picking
up an SMC A 70-210/4 lens - they certainly are not rare (so you
shouldn't have too much trouble finding one), and it is a good lens.

Fred
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Pentax A* Versus Zenitar K 85/1.4

2002-03-21 Thread Fred

I just put some scans of some comparison shots using the Zenitar
K-mount 85/1.4 and the Pentax A* 85/1.4 lenses on my web site:

http://www.cetussoft.com/pentax/85compar/a^-vs-zk.htm

Ya gotta love 85mm - g.

Fred
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Re: AF with manual focus lens???

2002-03-21 Thread Evan Hanson

Nope.  It's the famouse autofocusing teleconverter.  Works
best with fast lenses. 

Evan

Christian Skofteland wrote:
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1340415983
 
 In his description he says you can use a manual focus lens on an AF body and
 it will autofocus.
 
 Am I missing something?
 
 Christian Skofteland
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: AF with manual focus lens???

2002-03-21 Thread Fred

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1340415983

 In his description he says you can use a manual focus lens on an
 AF body and it will autofocus.

 Am I missing something?

Christian, that is indeed the correct story.  That's not just any
ol' teleconverter - it's the Pentax F 1.7X AF Converter, which is
not just a 1.7X TC, but will also autofocus with many manual focus
lenses.  (The lenses do have to be fast enough to start with that
there's enough light left passing through the 1.7X TC for the
autofocus sensors in the AF camera body.)  It's also a pretty good
TC when used with a manual focus body, too.

Fred
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Re: 67 Mania / shake?

2002-03-21 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

  concerning shutter shake, Aaron wrote:
 
 If I were planning on shooting with lenses longer than 300mm, I'd
 probably purchase a Pentax 645 or 645n.  I played with the 645n and the
 400mm once, and man, what a sweet little combo that was.
 
... but bro' ?

... that 40 pound 800mm f4 for the 6x7 is massive enough to
effectivly danp any vibration from the superb goliath-sized 
mirror/shutter mechanisms -  !;^D

Bill
  
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http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
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Re: Pentax A* Versus Zenitar K 85/1.4

2002-03-21 Thread Timothy Sherburne

Nice set of comparisons. The differences in resolution and color are amazing
 1.4. There's no mistaking the two. How much does the Zenitar usually sell
for? 20% of the price of the A*?

t

On 3/21/02 12:40 PM, Fred wrote:

 I just put some scans of some comparison shots using the Zenitar
 K-mount 85/1.4 and the Pentax A* 85/1.4 lenses on my web site:
 
 http://www.cetussoft.com/pentax/85compar/a^-vs-zk.htm
 
 Ya gotta love 85mm - g.
 
 Fred
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Re: Graywolf's Site

2002-03-21 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

 Tom wrote:
 
 Humm? I will try that.

yes - keep your big scan w/o irreversible changes like
sharpening  such. It's overkill when image size is re-
duced and dropped to screen resolutions. Best to fine-tune
the end result of each smaller version to it's use - in this
case, being the web - compressing/shrinking is best done to 
the raw image w/ perhaps major color adjustments first.

Bill 

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http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
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RE: RE: Re: Re: My opinion of Netscape 6.2.1

2002-03-21 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Whoops.. 
how quickly we forget when we're embroiled in design. 
My error. 
I'm thinking of scripting and includes as per .shtml, javascript etc.  
Anywho... code (if you can even call HTML that anymore)... to spec should do the 
trick. 

Cheers,
Dave

Original Message:
-
snip
Hi Dave,

Just to clarify;  JSPs, Cold Fusion, and ASP are all server side having
nothing to do with the browser. These technologies use server side app
servers to parse it's language into straight html which is then sent to the
browser.

Rick
/snip



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SMC-M 135mm/f3.5 plus SMC-M 35mm/f2 or SMC-A 35mm/f2.8

2002-03-21 Thread Francis_Alviar

Hello all,

I want to ask the group what their experience is with this type of lens.  I
know it makes for a good portrait lens with its medium telephoto range but
what else can you use it for?  Any of you use this lens for something other
than portraits?

Also, is $95 a good price for it at 10- condition?

I'm debating whether to get a 35mm/f2 SMC M or a 35mm/f2.8 SMC A.  Do you
guys have either of these two lenses and what do you think of them.  Pros
and cons.  Which is sharper of the two and does it matter?

Thanks.


Francis M. Alviar
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