Re: Re: Limited 31mm f1.8 or FA 28mm f2.8 and FA 35mm f2
Hi, Thanks! Alek Uytkownik Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] napisa: On Tuesday, December 3, 2002, at 03:05 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, Thanks! So 35 is even better than 24mm and cheaper.Maybe I shall look for the lens Alek Alek, I responded to this a little earlier, but my post hasn't shown up the list yet (maybe the bit byter ate it). But, anyway, this url should have been included with the previous post. http://www.phred.org/pentax/lensgal/fa35_2/fa35_2.html Dan Scott
Re[2]: Winter Storm Warning
Har! Here in the UK the entire country grinds to a halt if there's a touch of hoar frost in the morning! No! Dammit Bob! I won't have it! You know for a fact that it's the *forecast* of a touch of frost that brings us to our knees. Cot Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ Oh, swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
Re: S9000
Goerge, Thanks for the very informative posting re the 9000S printer, and the links at the bottom. Very persuasive. Cheers, Cot Cotty - I've had my S9000 for almost 4 days now, so this is not even close to any kind of a thorough review. I'm replacing a Lexmark Z52 so I'm still in the wow stage. I do most of my printing on Ilford's Galerie Classic Pearl. So far I've reprinted a dozen of my favorite prints and every one is significantly improved, as should be expected, from my previous efforts with the two year old Lexmark. Back when I bought the Lexmark I wanted a relatively fast, inexpensive printer that could do a photo now and then. My desires have changed a bit. I also print a contact sheet for each roll of film. I print these on any relatively decent, double sided photo or near photo paper. I printed 4 sets of contact sheets yesterday. I make the images relatively large, so each roll of 36 takes two sheets. Here, I'm not looking for high quality. I'm looking for speed and relatively decent results. The ink dries quickly and there is no waiting time when flipping the page to print on the reverse side. So far I can say this. The speed claims for this printer are right on. It only takes a couple of minutes or so to print an 8x10 at the highest quality settings. I really appreciate the speed. I do this for a hobby and my time is limited. I will say my first print scared me a bit. It came out wet and banded. A real mess. Turned out to be my fault. I hadn't set the paper type. The second print, with the correct paper type setting was excellent. I believe the individual ink tanks will contribute to a small cost savings. After four days of mixed photo and text printing the bar graphs on the ink monitor show black, photo cyan, and yellow diminished by perhaps 15-20%. (At this point I can't speak for the accuracy of the bar graphs in the display.) Cyan, photo magenta, and magenta look barely touched. Here is the basis for my decision: 1) Most of the reviews scored the quality of the Epson and Canon too close to call, though some gave the edge to one or the other. I sincerely doubt that any can really tell the difference if prints from both are not side by side. 2) Speed is clearly awarded to the Canon. 3) The Canon print head is easily replaceable by the owner. The Epson must go back to the factory for a head replacement. Canon wins this one. 4) Longevity isn't a factor. I'm already reprinting by best stuff because print quality has improved so much in the last couple of years. I guessing I'll probably be doing it again in the next five years or so. So for me, the decision was fairly easy. We'll see if I feel as positive a year from now after I've lived with it for a while. --- Here are a few links to reviews that may help you make a decision. From Tom's Hardware Guide: http://www6.tomshardware.com/consumer/02q1/020307/index.html From Steve's Digicams: http://www.steves-digicams.com/2002_reviews/canon_s9000.html From Luminous-Landscape: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/printers/s9000.shtml From TechTV: http://www.techtv.com/freshgear/products/story/0,23008,3373429,00.html See you later, gs Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ Oh, swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
RE: 6x7 MLU
Pat White wrote: Actually, I don't find vibration to be that much of an issue on the 6x7. It could be that MLU was added because a professional camera really should have it, to make the camera suitable for the most demanding applications. I bought my non MLU for landscape photography, and it is always tripod mounted - vibration is not an issue for me. The larger negative or slide is far superior to 35mm for this part of my hobby. As for the film transport, several people have mentioned that the most significant upgrade came with the 67II, and that the 67 is better than the 6x7, but still not perfect. No problems with mine so far. Apart from loading the first film (!), I have had no problems. The early cameras are definitely less expensive, and I'm pleased with mine. Also, all the lenses fit all the cameras, so once you're into the system, you can get a later body when it suits your budget. I want another body so I can shoot slide and BW of the same scenes. Because I find the 67 body I have no problem, and the non MLU is not favoured and therefore cheaper, I'll be acquiring another. Malcolm
RE: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
On the subject of ringlights, didn't they use it for fashion shoots in the 80's. How did it work out then, any idea? In the last 6 months on UK TV I have seen three different programmes that were about or included current fashion photographers. In every case the photographer used a ringlight at some point - it was only about a foot/18 inches across tho (still pretty big!). Chris
Pentax updated firmware for Optio 330GS
From dpreview: Pentax Japan has posted updated firmware, version 1.11, for their Optio 330GS, we're currently unsure as to whether this can be loaded onto European or US cameras. It is of interest because it appears to provide direct printing over USB, and Pentax were not part of the Direct Print Standard announced at the weekend.
Re: Winter Storm Warning
You're right! The next reasonable spell, I'd be at the realtors, putting my house up for sale! Where DO you live, Dan? keith whaley Dan Scott wrote: = snipped = It's just whatever you've acclimated to. I'm thinking you guys would drop like flies if you had a month or two of F 100+ weather and green house humidity. g Heck, one March we had a daytime high 113 F. And it wasn't dry heat, it was soaking wet two feet out the door heat. :-)
ricoh 50mm 1.4 any experiences???
whats its bokeh like as good as pentax?
any experiences with the ricoh 28-100mm, someone told me it was made by pentax???
a good lens? nice flare resistance? sharpness? was it made by pentax for ricoh?
Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
Ok now I know what your talking about, I have them in my fish tank though, didn't pay too much for the bulbs. I build my own light boxes for signage so it shouldn't be a problem Thanks Feroze - Original Message - From: Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 5:27 AM Subject: Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash On Tuesday, December 3, 2002, at 01:33 PM, Feroze Kistan wrote: Aren't there compact fluorescent studio lights now? There's plenty of CF lamps with good CRI and color temp of 5000k, wouldn't that be sufficient? They sure don't put out much heat compared to most of the other lamps. Dan Scott (don't know anything, just wondering) Hi Dan, Dont know about the CF lights, would be worth looking into, know any more details?? Feroze Feroze, I was just guessing, based on my experience with CFs for aquaria. If you aren't adverse to DIY, AHS sells kits of ballast, reflectors and wiring along with lamps for very reasonable prices, though I'm not sure how you'd adapt that to your purpose. Just checking now: the 36watt and 55watt CFs put out 5300K light with CRIs of 93 and 92, respectively. They also have lamps with color temps of 5000K, 6400K, 6700K, and 10,000K. AHS is http://ahsupply.com/product-.htm Hey, just on a lark I looked at BH, they do sell CF studio lights for high $$$. The price difference would certainly make me look at rolling my own. Dan Scott
Re: Pat White in American Photo/6x7
Dan Scott wrote: Was there a film transport problem with some of the early 6x7s? I've been considering the Koni and Mamiya press cameras as an alternative to a 6x7 because I thought I'd read that the older ones were iffy. The film transport mechanism is the weak spot on the first twenty years or so of 6x7s. That being said, I wouldn't call it iffy. They were used and frequently abused by pros through all those years. I've put close to 1000 rolls of film through my 6x7 without even a hint of a problem. Even the frame spacing is perfect. By the way, any camera with 6x7 graphic on the upper front is the early type. The much more recent version, which purportedly has an improved transport mechanism, is designated 67. And of course the newest version is the 67II. The very early 6x7 lacks mirror lock up, but the 6x7 series camers with mlu are quite nice and frequently affordable. Mine has only some minor cosmetic flaws and came complete with a prism. I paid $202.11 on ebay at about this time last year. Paul
Re: ricoh 50mm 1.4 any experiences???
on 04.12.02 12:16, whereswayne at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: whats its bokeh like as good as pentax? Which Ricoh? There were two versions of 50/1.4 - rikenon XR (worse optically) and rikenon P (better) -- Best Regards Sylwek
Re: Pat White in American Photo/6x7
xr i think - Original Message - From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:54 PM Subject: Re: Pat White in American Photo/6x7 Dan Scott wrote: Was there a film transport problem with some of the early 6x7s? I've been considering the Koni and Mamiya press cameras as an alternative to a 6x7 because I thought I'd read that the older ones were iffy. The film transport mechanism is the weak spot on the first twenty years or so of 6x7s. That being said, I wouldn't call it iffy. They were used and frequently abused by pros through all those years. I've put close to 1000 rolls of film through my 6x7 without even a hint of a problem. Even the frame spacing is perfect. By the way, any camera with 6x7 graphic on the upper front is the early type. The much more recent version, which purportedly has an improved transport mechanism, is designated 67. And of course the newest version is the 67II. The very early 6x7 lacks mirror lock up, but the 6x7 series camers with mlu are quite nice and frequently affordable. Mine has only some minor cosmetic flaws and came complete with a prism. I paid $202.11 on ebay at about this time last year. Paul
Re: ricoh 50mm 1.4 any experiences???
its the xr - Original Message - From: Sylwester Pietrzyk [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:52 PM Subject: Re: ricoh 50mm 1.4 any experiences??? on 04.12.02 12:16, whereswayne at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: whats its bokeh like as good as pentax? Which Ricoh? There were two versions of 50/1.4 - rikenon XR (worse optically) and rikenon P (better) -- Best Regards Sylwek
Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
Very nice shot, Mark! keith whaley Mark Erickson wrote: Jeff, I have a Minolta Spotmeter F. It's pretty nice. The feature that I use a lot is the memory that allows you to take several readings. It shows the results graphically on the LCD display. As William Robb mentioned, it makes zone system calculations really easy. Here's an example taken with my Century Graphic with the aid of my meter: http://www.westerickson.net/mark/misc/PennerLake.jpg --Mark
Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
On 3 Dec 2002 at 21:27, Dan Scott wrote: Hey, just on a lark I looked at BH, they do sell CF studio lights for high $$$. The price difference would certainly make me look at rolling my own. The main problem with using mains frequency fluorescent lamps is that since the phosphorescent materials have a relatively short persistence so the light output isn't relatively continuous like tungsten lamps, it flickers. This can send some camera meters crazy, my LX and E-10 are both affected, we are 50Hz here so the lamps flash 100 times per second. A lot of the commercial fluorescent light (cold lights) have special high frequency power sources, hence the often high costs. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
Re: Winter Storm Warning
On 4 Dec 2002 at 13:11, Shaun Canning wrote: Try living in a country that is in almost perpetual drought, only to hear city based weather 'talking heads' on the TV bemoaning a day of rain Not in Sydney, the talking heads were joyous at the thought of a wet weekend last week, first good rain in many many months. It's a stark contrast with out NA friends for sure, it was 42°C (107.6°F) at my place yesterday. It's too hot to go outside and it's windy so it's like being inside a huge fan forced oven. Just to bring us back on topic for a moment, there was an Option 330GS? and MZ- 6 ad on TV last night, of couse the MZ comes with a luscious Sigma zoom lens. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
The Spotmeter F has an excellent reputation. About the only thing Minolta does well is they make good meters. Personally, I'd prefer a Minolta meter for studio work with flash, but for work with negative film in natural light I think a Pentax spotmeter is head and shoulders better. Hold out. --Mike
Re: More Pentax stuff for auction
Hi J.C. Have you located my order and sent my copy of the 1970 Takumar lens manual yet? eBay #1394035671 This goes back to the November 5th end-of-auction date, by the way... keith whaley Los Angeles * * * * J. C. O'Connell wrote: http://jcoconnell.com/JCO_AUCT.HTM 1970 Pentax Dealer's Takumar Lens Manual$9.99 - Dec-09-02 18:30:00 1975 era- Pentax SMC Takumar Lens Data Sheets$9.99 - Dec-09-02 18:30:00 Pentax SMC-F 50mm F2.8 MACRO AF Lens$129.99 $179.99 - Dec-13-02 18:30:00 Canon Canonet QL17 35mm Rangefinder Camera$49.99 $79.99 - Dec-13-02 18:30:00 Pentax SPOTMATIC 35mm SLR Camera Body$34.99 $59.99 - Dec-13-02 18:30:15 J.C. O'Connell mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] My Business references Websites: http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/jco/
Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
Here's an example taken with my Century Graphic with the aid of my meter: http://www.westerickson.net/mark/misc/PennerLake.jpg Ahh, that's a beautiful shot. You have good tone. (He has good tone was Louis Armstrong's highest praise for a fellow musician.) --Mike
Re: P6X7 Oldies
Luminious-Landscape uses the P 6X7 system a lot and he can have/afford anything. ( Right Mike J. ?) Michael Reichmann uses a Rollei 6008 system and both a Pentax 67 and 645, plus he uses Canon digital SLRs a lot. I can't tell you exactly in what proportion he prefers each to the others, but yes, my experience is that he pretty much goes out and gets whatever he wants. I can at least say that he's probably the last person who would use anything because he has to, or because he's stuck with it, or because he's forced to make do. --Mike Mike Johnston See my weekly online column about photography at either of these two locations: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sunday1.shtml http://www.steves-digicams.com/smp/smp_index.html Also, check out my new monthly column in the English _Black White Photography_ magazine!
Re: Winter Storm Warning
On Wed, 4 Dec 2002, Pål Jensen wrote: There must be more than thousand car on square km I'm occupying. We do. however, have winter tyres on our cars. Either studded or the extreme ice tyres without them. Let's be honest here - Scandinavians also know how to drive on this stuff. That's why they produce so many world-class rally drivers :-) Chris
Re: Winter Storm Warning
Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Problem here is that we're expecting freezing rain. This means glaze ice on roads, and, even worse, downed tree limbs and power lines due to ice build up. On the upside, there's a photo I've been wanting to take for years. On my way to work there's a small maountain road named Hell's Delight Road. I'd love to make a shot of the sign dripping icicles... Stephen
Re: Winter Storm Warning
On Tuesday, December 3, 2002, at 11:02 PM, Mike Johnston wrote: It's just whatever you've acclimated to. I'm thinking you guys would drop like flies if you had a month or two of F 100+ weather and green house humidity. g Heck, one March we had a daytime high 113 F. And it wasn't dry heat, it was soaking wet two feet out the door heat. :-) Yeah but Dan, by the time you're 80 you'll think that's room temperature, and you'll be asking for your cardigan when it gets below 90. s --Mike, tuff guy from the north Damn. I have to buy a cardigan? Dan Scott
Photo ops in Oz
I just saw on CNN that some Australian women are going to dance naked in the Outback to end the drought. Any of you Aussies going to be there with your Pentaxes? Bill
Re: Pat White in American Photo/6x7
Thanks Albano. A question: even with the vibration the shots come out better than a good 35mm with no vibration problems? How much better? Dan Scott On Wednesday, December 4, 2002, at 07:37 AM, Albano Garcia wrote: Hi, Dan Yes, film transport is an issue in old 6x7s. I own an old nonMLU body, and the film transport is a bit weared out. It leaves a lot of space between frames, sometimes cutting frame number 10 by half. Cosmetically it's like new, not a simple mark. And yes, I miss the MLU because I would like to use it always I can (in tripod, non moving subject). But since I mostly use it for handheld portraits, it's not that bad. I think it's worth it if you find it really cheap (as I did). If you really like the beast, you can buy another body (more modern, a 67 if possible) and use the earlier as a backup. That's what I would like to do, if I had money. but first I want more lenses... Somebody has a 55mm for 200 usd? :-) Regards Albano
Re: Becoming OT: Jazz (Was: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F)
Robert Soames Wetmore wrote: (He has good tone was Louis Armstrong's highest praise for a fellow musician.) --Mike I prefer a dry, dirty, nasty tone - like Steve Grossman's. Or maybe rich and fruity and nasty like Harry Sokal...or big and nasty and scratchy like early Gato Barbieri. But never just good! Rob We weren't talking literally about tone preferences, we were talking jazz quality. Ya just had to be there, Rob. Good from Ol' Louis was more praise than you can imagine. Just 'good'? No. Really, REALLY good! g And, not just musical 'tone' but everything about how the musician played. keith whaley
Eclipse in South Africa
Hey everyone Today the 4th of December was a big day, as you probably know it was a total eclipse today and you know what, it sucked! The weather the day before was great and we thought yeah, we're gonna get some nice photo's. Me and a friend drove out to and observetory and it had a live sattelite uplink with the place in the umbra(musinna). We drove out this morning at 05:54 to make sure we get a nice spot. To our disappointment there was a thick blanket of clouds and almost no wind! We were just outside the umbra and was told that we would have a 90% view. The clouds are still here as I am typing 17:09(CAT) and now only is it sort of starting to clear up. I think I got about 4 photo's in total, when there was an open patch of sky. Apparently we actually got to see more of the eclipse than the people in the umbra because they were totally clouded out and so was the rest of the path of totality. I sat the whole day yesterday making filters of and putting different colors in and now that was a real waste! O well, only another 28 years to wait! Then I'll be 43, so I think I'll still be here. Cheers Neil
Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
On Wednesday, December 4, 2002, at 06:56 AM, Rob Studdert wrote: On 3 Dec 2002 at 21:27, Dan Scott wrote: Hey, just on a lark I looked at BH, they do sell CF studio lights for high $$$. The price difference would certainly make me look at rolling my own. The main problem with using mains frequency fluorescent lamps is that since the phosphorescent materials have a relatively short persistence so the light output isn't relatively continuous like tungsten lamps, it flickers. This can send some camera meters crazy, my LX and E-10 are both affected, we are 50Hz here so the lamps flash 100 times per second. A lot of the commercial fluorescent light (cold lights) have special high frequency power sources, hence the often high costs. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html Hi Rob, Electronic Ballasts are pretty cheap nowadays (here, anyway). I suspect the markup on the CF units on the ones purposed for photography is quite substantial. Dan Scott
dogs are damn hard to shoot
My dogs are, shall we say, less than cooperative. Any time you try to kneel to get a better angle, they both trot right over and beg for a pat... Just a rant. go on with your day. Cory Waters
Re: Yes I am
On Tue, 3 Dec 2002, frank theriault wrote: They probe me every night, anyway. Except they have silver-grey skin. Explains the bunny ears, eh? ;) -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re: Pat White in American Photo/6x7
The vibration issue is supposedly with low shutters speeds (from 1/30 to 1 second), and specially combined with long lenses (wich I never plan to own or use). To be honest, Dan, I still have to use the camera in very good conditions. I shot few rolls, and all in not the best conditions (almost-wideopen or wideopen, fairly good speeds, or flash indoors with horrible lighting setup). I want to take some shots with good light, a respectable speed and f stop (ie 1/250 at f8) to start making my own conclusions. By now, I'm satisfied with the results (an example is http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=1097688), but I want to use it more before making my own conclusions. I think the DOf is a real defying issue in 6x7 (very scarce), and people saying the 105mm sucks wide open, I think they are seeing images that basically have zero dof. The quality beats 35mm, no doubt. The pic I showed you, in a 8x10 is absolutely grainless, and I think it can go 16x20 without problems. MF kicks 35mm ass when you go bigger than 8x12. There, 35mm must be perfect to keep reasonable, while MF, even not perfectly shot can keep very well up to huge enlargements. As I said, I need to use it more to make conclusions, and to be honest I enjoy using my Rolleiflex a lot, and the fact it weights the half, costs the sixth part, has leaf shutter and no mirror slap, makes me want to use the TLR more than La Gorda (the fat girl). I think it fits my style more (shooting handheld in the streets of a increasingly hardcore city). I keep the 6x7 because I like it, and want it to use it when the situation is more controlled. Also I want to make some paid jobs, and no matter how good photographer you are, you can't appear in a session with a 50 years old TLR. The 6x7 gives you credibility and confidence to the client IMHO. I would like to have at least one more lens, a wide angle to broaden the possibilities of use (and dof). I feel limited with the 105mm. End of rambling. Regards Albano --- Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Albano. A question: even with the vibration the shots come out better than a good 35mm with no vibration problems? How much better? Dan Scott On Wednesday, December 4, 2002, at 07:37 AM, Albano Garcia wrote: Hi, Dan Yes, film transport is an issue in old 6x7s. I own an old nonMLU body, and the film transport is a bit weared out. It leaves a lot of space between frames, sometimes cutting frame number 10 by half. Cosmetically it's like new, not a simple mark. And yes, I miss the MLU because I would like to use it always I can (in tripod, non moving subject). But since I mostly use it for handheld portraits, it's not that bad. I think it's worth it if you find it really cheap (as I did). If you really like the beast, you can buy another body (more modern, a 67 if possible) and use the earlier as a backup. That's what I would like to do, if I had money. but first I want more lenses... Somebody has a 55mm for 200 usd? :-) Regards Albano = Albano Garcia El Pibe Asahi __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
Re: Winter Storm Warning
On Wednesday, December 4, 2002, at 05:14 AM, Keith Whaley wrote: You're right! The next reasonable spell, I'd be at the realtors, putting my house up for sale! Where DO you live, Dan? keith whaley Dan Scott wrote: = snipped = It's just whatever you've acclimated to. I'm thinking you guys would drop like flies if you had a month or two of F 100+ weather and green house humidity. g Heck, one March we had a daytime high 113 F. And it wasn't dry heat, it was soaking wet two feet out the door heat. :-) Keith, San Antonio, Texas, USA. About 150 miles away from Mexico. Where the Texas Hill Country meets the Texas Coastal Plain. Cradle of Texas liberty (think the Alamo), nickname is the River City (because of the Riverwalk), Fort Sam Houston (army base, Teddy Roosevelt and the Roughriders, Geronimo), Randolph Field AFB, Lackland AFB, home of USAA (office building is larger than the Pentagon), the Spurs. Economy is based on tourism, and the military bases surrounding San Antonio. I think 5 years out of the last 6 have been in drought conditions. Cost of living is affordable, which is good 'cause wages are poor. I think we still lead the nation in teenage pregnancies. No good Pentax shops at all. Dan Scott
Re: dogs are damn hard to shoot
This why I usually have someone to handle the dog and someone else to get their attention. On Wednesday 04 December 2002 03:35 pm, CBWaters wrote: My dogs are, shall we say, less than cooperative. Any time you try to kneel to get a better angle, they both trot right over and beg for a pat... Just a rant. go on with your day. Cory Waters -- Ken Archer Canine Photography San Antonio, Texas Business Is Going To The Dogs
Re: dogs are damn hard to shoot
So is a 6 week old kitten.g Carry on Dave Begin Original Message From: CBWaters [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:35:08 -0500 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: dogs are damn hard to shoot My dogs are, shall we say, less than cooperative. Any time you try to kneel to get a better angle, they both trot right over and beg for a pat... Just a rant. go on with your day. Cory Waters End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
Re: any experiences with the ricoh 28-100mm, someone told me itwas made by pentax???
a good lens? nice flare resistance? sharpness? was it made by pentax for ricoh? I don't think it would have been made by Pentax. Pentax did provide a few primes at the time of the XR series lenses (28/3.5 200/4 for sure, maybe others) but these were lenses already made by Pentax. There is nothing equivalent to the 28-100mm in what Pentax was offering. But who knows? Somebody??? Andre --
Re: ricoh 50mm 1.4 any experiences???
whats its bokeh like as good as pentax? Which Ricoh? There were two versions of 50/1.4 - rikenon XR (worse optically) and rikenon P (better) its the xr In Camerart (Japanese magazine written in english), I remember having seen a review of the XR. They compared its image rendering to the Contax 50/1.4 and found it very pleasing. I think this lens might have been made by Pentax as the specs are practically identical to the M lens. At the time, Pentax was providing, at least, the XR 28/3.5 and the XR 200/4. You need to compare both lenses side by side to judge. Looking at the optics, internal baffling and coatings suite. Andre --
Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
Jeff (and Mike), Thanks for the complement. The Century Graphic is a 2.25x3.25 press camera. It will take pictures with sheet film, and Graflex rollfilm backs and Mamiya RB67 backs can also be used to hold film. I use rollfilm backs. I took this shot with a Schneider Xenar 105mm F3.5 lens, Cokin red filter (yeah, I'm cheap), on Kodak T400CN. Pulled it into the computer with an Epson 2450 scanner, did a little digital dodging and burning, and finally virtually printed it on high-contrast paper (i.e., cranked up the contrast a bit). I only wish there were more clouds. I'm also interested to hear why Mike thinks the Pentax meter is better than the Minolta. The one comparison that I can make is that the Minolta meter has a plastic body and doesn't feel all that rugged. Both Pentax meters feel pretty bomber to me. If I weren't cheap, I'd probably by a Zone VI modified Pentax meter. But I'm cheap. Except for my MZ-S, FA* lenses, etc. H --Mark Hi Mark, Nice shot. Great tonality range. Is the Century Graphic a 4x5 or a 21/4x31/4 camera? My exposure problems seem to arise in tricky lighting situations using colour reversal film (Agfa RSX) and a Gossen Lunalite meter. I'm in the process of acquiring a Minolta Spotmeter F. I hope it doesn't elude me. Jeff.
RE: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
On the subject of ringlights, didn't they use it for fashion shoots in the 80's. How did it work out then, any idea? In the last 6 months on UK TV I have seen three different programmes that were about or included current fashion photographers. In every case the photographer used a ringlight at some point - it was only about a foot/18 inches across tho (still pretty big!). Chris Indeed, same here. It would seem that very bright, flat light stuffed right into models' faces is de riguer here. As Tony Hancock might say, very 'sheesh'... Personally I dislike it but I do have to say that it suits the look they are all trying to achieve which is presumably a featureless pouting visage drained of any colour and looking ready for a slab in the mortuary. Let me have deep bronzed skin tones and full red lips anyday ;-) Cotty Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ Oh, swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
Looking for a A35mmf/2
I'm looking for this lens. Does anyone has got one for sale (preferably in Europe - Paris) ? Thanks, Cyril --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.423 / Virus Database: 238 - Release Date: 25/11/2002
Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
I'm also interested to hear why Mike thinks the Pentax meter is better than the Minolta. I'll withdraw the comment. I don't know the specific Minolta meter under discussion. I just have lots of memories of being irritated while futzing with over-featured Minolta studio meters, and lots of memories of the satisfying, straightforward Pentax spotmeter I used to own. Funny and true story: a woman I knew once who taught classes in how to use the top-of-the-line Minolta studio meter had to bone up on its operation and features before every class she taught. The meter was so complicated she couldn't remember everything about how to work it from one class to the next. --Mike
OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
A good friend is getting married in January 2003,he for the 3rd time,she for the second.I now have the SP and 280t flash (smc m50 f1.7) on it for now.Hope to have the a 50 f1.7 before the wedding. I have done a bit of experimentation with the camera/flash combo and m lens,flash on TTL and using several f stops on the 50 5.6 and 4 mostly.Test shots look good. My ? is: Would i be better of using the A lens for true TTL or will i have just as much success with the M set at f4 or 5.6. The request is for some simple shots,aisle,some alter and the smootch etc.I plan on doing better than that ,but would Portra 160 NC be better in this case than VC.Location is a country club setting with fireplace.Light unknown but probably good. I got suckered in,how do you say no to a 6'2 big person.G Thanks Dave Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
Re: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
Don't worry Jeff.We won't snipe yaG Dave Begin Original Message From: Jeff [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm in the process of acquiring a Minolta Spotmeter F. I hope it doesn't elude me. Jeff. End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
Re: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
David, It seems you are confused about the TTL. I'm not sure what you mean by True. Basically TTL means that the camera body meters the film plane for correct exposure and turns the flash off when there is enough. The big advantage is that you can choose any f-stop you want within the power range of the flash. Using an A lens on A setting will only accomplish the camera setting the f-stop for you. The net difference of using an A lens set to 5.6 and an M lens set to 5.6 is nothing. Of course, letting the camera set the aperture for you somewhat defeats the reason for TTL. You could have just as easily use the flash's sensor in A mode. So, in summary, you don't need any A lenses to get TTL benefit. Pick your F-stop and go for it. Bruce Wednesday, December 4, 2002, 9:25:55 AM, you wrote: DB A good friend is getting married in January 2003,he DB for the 3rd time,she for the second.I now have the SP and DB 280t flash (smc m50 f1.7) on it for now.Hope to have the DB a 50 f1.7 before the wedding. DB I have done a bit of experimentation with the camera/flash combo DB and m lens,flash on TTL and using several f stops on the 50 DB 5.6 and 4 mostly.Test shots look good. DB My ? is: Would i be better of using the A lens for true TTL or DB will i have just as much success with the M set at f4 or 5.6. The request is for some simple shots,aisle,some alter and the DB smootch etc.I plan on doing better than that ,but would Portra DB 160 NC be better in this case than VC.Location is a country club DB setting with fireplace.Light unknown but probably good. I got suckered in,how do you say no to a 6'2 big person.G DB Thanks DB Dave DB Pentax User DB Stouffville Ontario Canada DB http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ DB http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses DB Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
Re: Question #1: Price request
I suspect you are talking about the equivalent of the Vivitar 2xmacro convertor. I have this convertor and it is A) a very good convertor in its own right. B) Even better because it has the helicoid which makes it an exceptional cose-up tool. I paid about $100 Cdn. --$60U.S. for it. I don't think a Panagor model would sell for that high a price, but I suspect it is the same thing. I could be wrong... Vic
Re: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
A somewhat stupid side question to all of this... Does the exposure compensation knob on the SuperProgram do anything when in the TTL flash mode? i.e., can you use it to compensate the exposure the same way that you do when metering a normal scene? I ask, because the times I tend to use flash usually involve taking pictures of women in black velvet dresses, which REALLY throws the metering off. -Mat
Re[2]: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
Mat, It has been a long time since I used the SuperProgram, but I believe the answer is yes. Treat it just as if you were metering without the flash. You are pointing out the real downfall of TTL flash - that is, it has the same metering problems as a program mode, namely, it doesn't know what it is metering. Just looking for the old 18% grey. Black or white turn out poorly without some control from the photographer. If there are any current SuperProgram owners out there who know for sure, please chime in. Bruce Wednesday, December 4, 2002, 10:01:06 AM, you wrote: MM A somewhat stupid side question to all of this... MM Does the exposure compensation knob on the SuperProgram do anything when in MM the TTL flash mode? MM i.e., can you use it to compensate the exposure the same way that you do MM when metering a normal scene? MM I ask, because the times I tend to use flash usually involve taking MM pictures of women in black velvet dresses, which REALLY throws the metering MM off. MM -Mat
Provia 100F vs. Astia 100
Having been a Kodak user for many years, I'm not very familiar with Fuji transparency films. However, I've been trying some different transparency films just to see what's out there. How do Provia 100F and Astia 100 compare in terms of sharpness, saturation, and grain? Paul Stenquist
RE: Provia 100F vs. Astia 100
Astia is muted and coldish, Provia is just slightly saturated and warmish. Grain and sharpness on Provia is streets ahead. Lattitude of Provia is much better too IMO. Astia is said to be the same emulsion as Sensia, but is slightly better IMO - possibly because of better storage and controls. -Original Message- From: Paul Stenquist [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: 04 December 2002 18:25 To: Pentax Discuss Subject: Provia 100F vs. Astia 100 Having been a Kodak user for many years, I'm not very familiar with Fuji transparency films. However, I've been trying some different transparency films just to see what's out there. How do Provia 100F and Astia 100 compare in terms of sharpness, saturation, and grain? Paul Stenquist
Fill-in Flash with AF200T
I had an email from a guy called Steve Morphet who has modified his AF200T flash so that it can be 'switched' between normal and fill-in flash. He has kindly done some drawings and diagrams (much neater than mine :-) and you can see for yourself if you like http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps and navigate your way through Gear Mods, or http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/mods/flashmod/flashmod.html will get you right there. Page takes a minute to load Cheers, Cotty Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ Oh, swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
Re: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
Thanks Bruce. I quess what i meant by True was having the lens in A setting and let the camera do its thing.Poor choice of a word i quess. From what i saw with the M lens the flash/camera seemed to do what its supposed to.They were junk shots but looked fine. Any thoughts on the film.I am humming between Portra 160 VC or Nc or Kodak RG 200. Dave David, It seems you are confused about the TTL. I'm not sure what you mean by True. Basically TTL means that the camera body meters the film plane for correct exposure and turns the flash off when there is enough. The big advantage is that you can choose any f-stop you want within the power range of the flash. Using an A lens on A setting will only accomplish the camera setting the f-stop for you. The net difference of using an A lens set to 5.6 and an M lens set to 5.6 is nothing. Of course, letting the camera set the aperture for you somewhat defeats the reason for TTL. You could have just as easily use the flash's sensor in A mode. So, in summary, you don't need any A lenses to get TTL benefit. Pick your F-stop and go for it. Bruce
Re: Question #2: Macro related
Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Is it a good idea to buy macro filter set? how much sharpness are you willing to lose? according to many people, either a real macro lens, extension tubes, or the Canon or Nikon multielement closeup lenses are the only real choices for high quality results. Herb... For the 50/1,7 with a 49mm ring, the Minolta lenses are the ones to look for. About 10-15$ each on eBay. There are three: no 0, no 1 and no 2. They were made in 49mm, 52mm and 55mm. Achromatic (2-lenses) with... achromatic coating. That's the way Minolta called their pre-multi-coating (2 coatings). Andre --
Re: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
I would definitely use Portra 160NC. It is the best film that I have found for people with natural looking skintones. Colors are very nice and accurate. If you order the imported version from BH, its about $3 a roll. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Bruce. I quess what i meant by True was having the lens in A setting and let the camera do its thing.Poor choice of a word i quess. From what i saw with the M lens the flash/camera seemed to do what its supposed to.They were junk shots but looked fine. Any thoughts on the film.I am humming between Portra 160 VC or Nc or Kodak RG 200. Dave David, It seems you are confused about the TTL. I'm not sure what you mean by True. Basically TTL means that the camera body meters the film plane for correct exposure and turns the flash off when there is enough. The big advantage is that you can choose any f-stop you want within the power range of the flash. Using an A lens on A setting will only accomplish the camera setting the f-stop for you. The net difference of using an A lens set to 5.6 and an M lens set to 5.6 is nothing. Of course, letting the camera set the aperture for you somewhat defeats the reason for TTL. You could have just as easily use the flash's sensor in A mode. So, in summary, you don't need any A lenses to get TTL benefit. Pick your F-stop and go for it. Bruce
Re: Looking for a A35mmf/2
I'm looking for this lens. Does anyone has got one for sale (preferably in Europe - Paris) ? Thanks, Cyril Quel arrondissement? (Juste une blague...) Check on eBay, it is an uncommon lens. If you want one, be prepared to buy it from anywhere... If you're opened to the possibility of using the M version, it will be easier to find one. André --
Re: OT Winter Storm Warning
And here I thought you were in Canada, Frank. You're describing most North Carolina drivers with this statement. Bill And, of course, knowing how to drive properly in low-traction situations helps, too - funny how when it does snow around here, so many drivers fail to reduce speed, brake and turn more gently, and leave much more distance between themselves and the vehicle ahead of them. When it does snow (especially the first snow of the year), the number of accidents is astounding. cheers, frank
Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
That still has to cost some serious money, probally more than a working class guy like me can afford :) Feroze - Original Message - From: Chris Stoddart [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 12:03 PM Subject: RE: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash On the subject of ringlights, didn't they use it for fashion shoots in the 80's. How did it work out then, any idea? In the last 6 months on UK TV I have seen three different programmes that were about or included current fashion photographers. In every case the photographer used a ringlight at some point - it was only about a foot/18 inches across tho (still pretty big!). Chris
Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
Hi Rob Oh it is a bit clumsy but I kind worked out a system , but I want to make my life eaiser thats why I want to get studio lights. Have never used a meter before, mostly relied on the camera to do it. Now my K1000's meter's gone a bit wonky, don't know what happend its just not reading right, hope Pentax can repair it. They told me its a common problem though. Still learning the MZS. How difficult is it to learn to use a meter? Thanks Feroze - Original Message - From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 3:58 AM Subject: Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash On 3 Dec 2002 at 22:10, Feroze Kistan wrote: Hi Rob, Good point, my main idea is to get lights that are low power so that the give off minimal heat so as not to damage the product, they are provided by the client and if I trash it I pay for it. Right now I use the table outdoors and use white sheets to reflect the light from the back or bottom. Lights good this side-about 200 days a year of it. Wont I be reducing the effectivesness of the flash with a softbox? Is there a formula to calculate the amount of light loss or is it eaiser to bracket widely? Hi Feroze, Whilst I appreciate the use of natural light your system seems like it would be nightmare to balance? A diffuser will lose you around 1.25 to 1.75 stops I guess. Have you considered employing an ambient/flash meter to determine appropriate exposure settings? Once you learn to use a good meter you only tend to need to bracket a little for really wide contrast range subjects. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
Re: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
Yup. The exposure compensation knob affects flash. Nice, eh? Mat Maessen wrote: A somewhat stupid side question to all of this... Does the exposure compensation knob on the SuperProgram do anything when in the TTL flash mode? i.e., can you use it to compensate the exposure the same way that you do when metering a normal scene? I ask, because the times I tend to use flash usually involve taking pictures of women in black velvet dresses, which REALLY throws the metering off. -Mat
Optio 330 GS firmware update
Pentax Optio 330GS firmware update posted - details on http://www.dpreview.com/ Cheers, DigiCot Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ Oh, swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
Re[2]: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
Dave, For weddings I use Portra 160NC or 400NC. The 400 will sometimes give you just a little more ambient room light, which looks better than the person standing in the dark type of shot. At weddings you are really looking for flesh tones and low contrast due to dark/black tuxes and white wedding dress. From the Kodak camp Portra NC is the preferred wedding film. Fuji has pretty similar films too. I have found that it has as much to do with the lab as anything. Find out what film your lab prefers (Kodak Portra or Fuji NP) and go with that. Bruce Tuesday, December 3, 2002, 9:43:07 PM, you wrote: bcin Thanks Bruce. bcin I quess what i meant by True was having the lens in bcin A setting and let the camera do its thing.Poor choice of a bcin word i quess. bcin From what i saw with the M lens the flash/camera seemed to do what bcin its supposed to.They were junk shots but looked fine. bcin Any thoughts on the film.I am humming between Portra 160 VC or Nc or Kodak RG 200. bcin Dave bcin David, It seems you are confused about the TTL. I'm not sure what you mean by True. Basically TTL means that the camera body meters the film plane for correct exposure and turns the flash off when there is enough. The big advantage is that you can choose any f-stop you want within the power range of the flash. Using an A lens on A setting will only accomplish the camera setting the f-stop for you. The net difference of using an A lens set to 5.6 and an M lens set to 5.6 is nothing. Of course, letting the camera set the aperture for you somewhat defeats the reason for TTL. You could have just as easily use the flash's sensor in A mode. So, in summary, you don't need any A lenses to get TTL benefit. Pick your F-stop and go for it. Bruce
Re[6]: electra studio flash/ring flash
Feroze, For flash work, if you can take the time to meter, using a hand held meter is oodles better than anything else. I use a Gossen Digital Luna Pro F and it measures flash plus ambient light. Just set the ISO and shutter synch speed and then hold the meter at subject position and fire the flashes. The readout gives you the f stop to use. Set the camera and fire away. The nicety is that you don't have to deal with reflectivity of the subject and compensate. Bruce Wednesday, December 4, 2002, 8:20:19 AM, you wrote: FK Hi Rob FK Oh it is a bit clumsy but I kind worked out a FK system , but I want to make my life eaiser FK thats why I want to get studio lights. Have FK never used a meter before, mostly relied on the FK camera to do it. Now my K1000's meter's gone FK a bit wonky, don't know what happend its just FK not reading right, hope Pentax can repair it. They told FK me its a common problem though. Still learning FK the MZS. FK How difficult is it to learn to use a meter? FK Thanks FK Feroze FK - Original Message - FK From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED] FK To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] FK Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 3:58 AM FK Subject: Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash On 3 Dec 2002 at 22:10, Feroze Kistan wrote: Hi Rob, Good point, my main idea is to get lights that are low power so that the give off minimal heat so as not to damage the product, they are provided by the client and if I trash it I pay for it. Right now I use the table outdoors and use white sheets to reflect the light from the back or bottom. Lights good this side-about 200 days a year of it. Wont I be reducing the effectivesness of the flash with a softbox? Is there a formula to calculate the amount of light loss or is it eaiser to bracket widely? Hi Feroze, Whilst I appreciate the use of natural light your system seems like it FK would be nightmare to balance? A diffuser will lose you around 1.25 to 1.75 stops I guess. Have you considered employing an ambient/flash meter to determine appropriate exposure settings? Once you learn to use a good meter you only FK tend to need to bracket a little for really wide contrast range subjects. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
Re: dogs are damn hard to shoot
Tell me about it. I have one (12 week old pup) who just runs straight at the camera, one who turns his head away and another who turns her ears sideways. A photo of the three of them together? Forget it! Wendy Begin Original Message From: CBWaters [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:35:08 -0500 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: dogs are damn hard to shoot My dogs are, shall we say, less than cooperative. Any time you try to kneel to get a better angle, they both trot right over and beg for a pat... Just a rant. go on with your day. Cory Waters --- Wendy Beard Mosaid Technologies Inc 11 Hines Rd, Kanata, Ontario K2K 2X1, Canada Tel: +1 613 599 9539 x1676 Fax +1 613 591 8148
Re: Provia 100F vs. Astia 100
Paul Stenquist wrote: Having been a Kodak user for many years, I'm not very familiar with Fuji transparency films. . How do Provia 100F and Astia 100 compare I haven't used these, but have run a modest amount of the Provia 400F through my 6x7 and like it. Good color, fine grain and a couple extra stops of aperture/shutterspeed. I would say the Provia 100 would also be nice, from what I've heard of it. I tend towards the E100vs for 100asa film, though. Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] -
Re: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
Not an ebay sale. I already Paypal'd the guy. Hope he doesn't stiff me. Jeff. PS: We'll keep you posted. - Original Message - From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 12:39 PM Subject: Re: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F Don't worry Jeff.We won't snipe yaG Dave Begin Original Message From: Jeff [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm in the process of acquiring a Minolta Spotmeter F. I hope it doesn't elude me. Jeff. End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
Re: Provia 100F vs. Astia 100
I've used a few rolls of Agfa RSX II 50 100. Love it. The secret is in the proc - Original Message - From: Bill D. Casselberry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 2:18 PM Subject: Re: Provia 100F vs. Astia 100 Paul Stenquist wrote: Having been a Kodak user for many years, I'm not very familiar with Fuji transparency films. . How do Provia 100F and Astia 100 compare I haven't used these, but have run a modest amount of the Provia 400F through my 6x7 and like it. Good color, fine grain and a couple extra stops of aperture/shutterspeed. I would say the Provia 100 would also be nice, from what I've heard of it. I tend towards the E100vs for 100asa film, though. Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] -
Re: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
Sorry for the double post. My computer hiccupped. I've used a few rolls of Agfa RSX II 50 100. Love it. The secret is in the processing. Jeff. - Original Message - From: Jeff [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 2:22 PM Subject: Re: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F Not an ebay sale. I already Paypal'd the guy. Hope he doesn't stiff me. Jeff. PS: We'll keep you posted. - Original Message - From: David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 12:39 PM Subject: Re: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F Don't worry Jeff.We won't snipe yaG Dave Begin Original Message From: Jeff [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm in the process of acquiring a Minolta Spotmeter F. I hope it doesn't elude me. Jeff. End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
Re: Provia 100F vs. Astia 100
Ill get it right yet. I've used a few rolls of Agfa RSX II 50 100. Love it. The secret is in the processing Jeff. PS: sorry for the cross posting. I'll have to disable the touchpad from my laptop. - Original Message - From: Bill D. Casselberry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 2:18 PM Subject: Re: Provia 100F vs. Astia 100 Paul Stenquist wrote: Having been a Kodak user for many years, I'm not very familiar with Fuji transparency films. . How do Provia 100F and Astia 100 compare I haven't used these, but have run a modest amount of the Provia 400F through my 6x7 and like it. Good color, fine grain and a couple extra stops of aperture/shutterspeed. I would say the Provia 100 would also be nice, from what I've heard of it. I tend towards the E100vs for 100asa film, though. Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] -
Re[6]: electra studio flash/ring flash
There is no reason to think that a hand held meter is more accurate than the one built into the camera. It is all a mater of how meters, and instruments in general, are used. They measure exactly what they are designed to measure, and if they are working properly, will do it accurately. People get into trouble because they don't understand what is really being measured, and then blame the instrument for poor results. Using manual flash calculations with guide numbers, distances and f-stops is also fool proof. There is a reason why many wedding photographers still use manual flash particularly for candids. The world is not a photo studio and incident light/flash meters are not always practical. BR From: Feroze Kistan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Would this technique, which sounds foolproof, apply to handheld meters in general then? I'm getting the impression that they are more accurate than using the cameras onboard meters is this correct?
RE: More Pentax stuff for auction
oops apologies for my previous email. It was obviously supposed to be private. I hate when that happens. JCO
Re[3]: OT:Sucked in but still wanting to do a good job
Hi, I would definitely use Portra 160NC. It is the best film that I have found for people with natural looking skintones. I guess that excludes George Hamilton and Michael Jackson then... g --- Bob
Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
On 4 Dec 2002 at 7:44, Jeff wrote: What about landscape photography with Positive film? That's what I need the Spotmeter for. Jeff, The Spotmeter F has a few functions that are specifically there to support colour positive shooting. It has two buttons, Highlight and Shadow and the action of these buttons is to add an exposure offset which will pull metered highlights or shadows into the range of most slide films, quite handy in some instances. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
Re: Fill-in Flash with AF200T
I had an email from a guy called Steve Morphet who has modified his AF200T flash so that it can be 'switched' between normal and fill-in flash. He has kindly done some drawings and diagrams (much neater than mine :-) and you can see for yourself if you like What? No robots. No spaceships? That drawing is just a drawing. Where is the soul? The passion? The Art? Yeah, but he's a normal regular guy :-) Cot Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ Oh, swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
RE: Photo ops in Oz
Hi Bill, It's not really a special photo op. Australian women never wear clothes unless they're on TV. Us blokes only wear Akubra hats. We've become quite inventive in finding places to store those spare lenses... Simon Bill Owens wrote: I just saw on CNN that some Australian women are going to dance naked in the Outback to end the drought. Any of you Aussies going to be there with your Pentaxes?
Re: That 6X7 mirror slap
The vibration issue is supposedly with low shutters speeds (from 1/30 to 1 second), and specially combined with long lenses (wich I never plan to own or use) Shooting handheld with the old 6X7 it actually jumped in my hands. The best shot I ever made was a sunset on Lake Champlain where, having no tripod, I set the camera on a park bench, put my hat over the lens, opened the shutter with a cable release, removed the hat, counted to ten, replaced the hat over the lens and closed the shutter. Who needs MLU? Eventually, I too converted to Rolleiflex and Fuji 645 and 690 rangefinders. Bill Lawlor
Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
On Wednesday, December 4, 2002, at 01:46 PM, Feroze Kistan wrote: I don't think so, I need a flat continous light source that dosn't give off too much heat, if one is flicking on and off at 1/100 a sec I think I would only be getting half the light at any given moment most likely with my luck just as the shutter opens Feroze Quality electronic ballasts flicker at extremely high rates, not the low rates of magnetic/tar ballasts. I would be very surprised if a camera would be bothered by one. But a simple test would be to find a CF fixture and take a shot of it. Dan Scott
Re: Question #2: Macro related
N*K*N sells 2 element diopter close up lenses in several strengths (5T, 6T) all I believe are 58mm. The two element diopter is supposed to be superior (sharper images) than the single element. Haven't done any testing but I have used the N*K*N diopters for several years and have no complaints. Ken Waller - Original Message - From: Lon Williamson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:18 AM Subject: Re: Question #2: Macro related I tried to buy the Sigmal 58mm 2-element about 6 months ago and NOBODY had it in stock. I think it may have been discontinued. I've got a 2-element diopter (came with the Phoenix 100mm f3.5 Macro), and it works quite well. Many people think that the 2-element diopters are the way to go: they certainly take up less space than tubes or TCs. -Lon Boris Liberman wrote: Hi! Is it a good idea to buy macro filter set? There're two options - 58 mm for Sigma that can go to f/32 in 135 mm giving supposedly more DOF, or 49 mm for 50/1.7. I am leaning towards 49 mm because I hope to collect more Pentax primes that feature same filter thread. Or such thing is not worth the money anyway - poor optical quality... What do you say? Thanks in advance. --- Boris Liberman www.geocities.com/dunno57 www.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=38625
Re:Provia/Astia
How do Provia 100F and Astia 100 compare in terms of sharpness, saturation, and grain? Paul Stenquist Paul, The current RDPIII/Provia 100F has less contrast and saturation than RVP Velvia 50, but the grain is as fine as the slower Velvia. RAP/Astia is balanced for flesh tones and is an excellent all-around color slide film showing less saturation and contrast than Provia 100F. Grain is a bit more coarse than Provia but should not be a problem under 16X20 enlargements from 35mm. Sensia 100/RA is said to be Astia sold at a lower price as an amateur film. Sensia 200/RM is altogether , IMO, inferior to any of the aforementioned films. As a practical matter, in my experience, Astia lets you retain some shadow detail in shots that would have black shadows on Velvia or Provia and is a good portrait film. Bill Lawlor
Re: dogs are damn hard to shoot
- Original Message - From: CBWaters Subject: dogs are damn hard to shoot My dogs are, shall we say, less than cooperative. Any time you try to kneel to get a better angle, they both trot right over and beg for a pat... As solid stay command is a beautiful thing. William Robb
Re: dogs are damn hard to shoot
Try that with a Maremma and they look at you like you have gone completely insaneand go in the compete opposite direction. Cheers Shaun William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: CBWaters Subject: dogs are damn hard to shoot My dogs are, shall we say, less than cooperative. Any time you try to kneel to get a better angle, they both trot right over and beg for a pat... As solid stay command is a beautiful thing. William Robb . -- Shaun Canning Cultural Heritage Services High Street, Broadford, Victoria, 3658. www.heritageservices.com.au/ Phone: 0414-967644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] My images can be seen at www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=238096
OT: SCSI and XP:( was RE: Hp scanner, printers whatever, they're all bad!)
I might add just one comment to this. With SCSI interface peripherals, the documentation will almost always tell you to turn the devices on before the computer, and off after the computer. After nearly tearing my hair out installing a SCSI scanner a few years ago, when the computer simply would not talk to the scanner, I tried turning the computer on first, then the SCSI device during the boot-up process - lo and behold, it worked! This procedure was not necessary after the installation was completed, and it now all handshakes perfectly following the recommended sequence. Incidentally, I've just finished upgrading one of my PC's to XP, and let me recommend to anyone wanting to do this that you ensure you get your updated drivers _first_ and save a _lot_ of frustration. Highly recommended is www.driverguide.com, where you will be able to obtain many drivers for devices no longer supported by the manufacturers. Also very useful is winS3id.exe, which will tell you the exact name and version of your video adapter card. John Coyle Brisbane, Australia On Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:44 AM, Doug Franklin [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote: Hi Len, On Tue, 3 Dec 2002 11:22:03 -0600, Len Paris wrote: Good advice, Doug. You can't go wrong using this sequence though, so far, I've had no problems turning the printer on after the computer is already running. Turning the printer on first and then booting the computer can't hurt anything and might assure better handshaking, as you say. I may take a the new habit, myself. SNIP TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: Minolta Spotmeter F
Hi Rob and all other members who helped me decide, The meter is on it's way. It's going to miss Hanukah, but I'll have plenty of time to learn it's intricacies. I know about it's features, I'm just going to have to learn how to use them. That's a half of the fun in photography. Cheers, Jeff - Original Message - From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 5:49 PM Subject: Re: Minolta Spotmeter F On 4 Dec 2002 at 7:44, Jeff wrote: What about landscape photography with Positive film? That's what I need the Spotmeter for. Jeff, The Spotmeter F has a few functions that are specifically there to support colour positive shooting. It has two buttons, Highlight and Shadow and the action of these buttons is to add an exposure offset which will pull metered highlights or shadows into the range of most slide films, quite handy in some instances. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
Re: OT Winter Storm Warning
On Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:34:21 -0500, Bill Owens wrote: And here I thought you were in Canada, Frank. You're describing most North Carolina drivers with this statement. when it does snow around here, so many drivers fail to reduce speed, brake and turn more gently, and leave much more distance Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: Just a little P***ed Off!
I'm sorry to hear that this thing has turned sour. It was very thoughtful on your part, and I share your displeasure in learning that someone on the list provoked Tom. I'm also somewhat dismayed that Tom would complain without first inquiring. Paul frank theriault wrote: Excuse me for venting, but I'm going to anyway. Got an e-mail from Graywolf today, asking what's up with money that I was collecting on his behalf from list members. It seems that someone (a list member, but I don't know who) told him that I've dropped off the list, and since Tom hadn't heard from me in a week or two (I've been waiting for enough money to come in to make it worth sending Tom a cheque), he was getting worried. In fact, we've collected over $600, and a first cheque will be ready to go by Friday for about $400 (the balance, being personal cheques from the US, will take 25 days to clear my account). I'm just wondering who would have told Tom that? Geez, I usually post at least once or more per day (I know it's usually drivel, but it's there!). Whoever it is, do you think you could have contacted me, before telling Tom that I've dropped out of sight? This really leaves a bad taste in my mouth - poor Tom was needlessly worried that everyone on the list, along with him might be in the process of being scammed (to use a word that he did). I'm really pissed off!! If the person who spread this malicious rumour reads this, I'd ~really~ like you to contact me off list with an explanation of your actions. Beware, I might have a few choice words for you! -frank -- The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
Re: That 6X7 mirror slap
Bill Lawlor wrote: Shooting handheld with the old 6X7 it actually jumped in my hands. I find that vibration isn't a problem when shooting handheld at speeds as slow as 1/60. The hands do a good job of dampening the vibration. The 6x7 vibration problem is most evident when using flimsy tripods with hard mating surfaces. Paul Stenquist
Re: Just a little P***ed Off!
I think that Tom was just inquiring. I hadn't been in contact with him for a couple of weeks, and he wanted to know what's up. I bear him no ill will. It was his indication that he had information that I'd dropped off the list that angered me. He obviously got it from someone, because if he'd checked the archives, he's see my frequent posts. I'm just curious as to who that someone is, and why they would pass something like that to Tom. I'm sure that Tom was quite dismayed to hear that information, so I can't blame him for his inquiry. I really don't feel that anything regarding the effort in and of itself has gone sour. We've gathered a good deal of money, and Tom will soon be getting it. That's the important thing. Of course, maybe I'm just being overly sensitive, and shouldn't worry about it. There may be an innocent explanation; I'm all ears! vbg thanks, Paul, frank Paul Stenquist wrote: I'm sorry to hear that this thing has turned sour. It was very thoughtful on your part, and I share your displeasure in learning that someone on the list provoked Tom. I'm also somewhat dismayed that Tom would complain without first inquiring. Paul -- The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
Re: Just a little P***ed Off!
Ditto. I share your displeasure in learning that someone on the list provoked Tom. I'm also somewhat dismayed that Tom would complain without first inquiring. Regards, Paul Jones
Re: OT: SCSI and XP:( was RE: Hp scanner, printers whatever, they're all bad!)
Hi John, On Thu, 5 Dec 2002 08:20:53 -, John Coyle wrote: This procedure was not necessary after the installation was completed, and it now all handshakes perfectly following the recommended sequence. Yep, I've been bitten by that before, too. But it's few and far between, and it generally only affects installation of the device rather than its ongoing operation. As with anything else computer, if it doesn't work the first four or five times, try anything else you can think of. :-) TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: OT Winter Storm Warning
Musta missed Bill's post from earlier today. Hmmm... Hey Doug, that's a great quote! It may someday replace my little quote from J. Robert that I now use. g cheers, frank Doug Franklin wrote: On Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:34:21 -0500, Bill Owens wrote: And here I thought you were in Canada, Frank. You're describing most North Carolina drivers with this statement. when it does snow around here, so many drivers fail to reduce speed, brake and turn more gently, and leave much more distance Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ -- The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
Re: OT Winter Storm Warning
On Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:09:56 -0500, frank theriault wrote: Hey Doug, that's a great quote! Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein Herr Einstein had quite penetrating observations about all sorts of stuff beyond physics. He's one of the most interesting people I've ever studied. Here's a very interesting recent article on him. http://www.usnews.com/usnews/issue/021209/misc/9einstein.htm TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash
Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Let me have deep bronzed skin tones and full red lips anyday ;-) Mightn't you wish for a bit more hair while you're at it? and huge pectoral muscles, rippling abs... -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: OT: SCSI and XP:( was RE: Hp scanner, printers whatever, they're all bad!)
John Coyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I might add just one comment to this. With SCSI interface peripherals, the documentation will almost always tell you to turn the devices on before the computer, and off after the computer. You can also turn on most SCSI devices *after* the computer is booted and get the computer to recognize them by following the procedure described here: http://www.scantips.com/scsitip.html#boot -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: Toronto this weekend.
I have a visitor to baby sit, I'll drag them out lol. __ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
Well it's about time!
I finally picked up my CS-130. Glad that is over with. I haven't been in the store the past while and now Pentax has 1/3rd of a display case, with Minolta getting the other 2/3. What did they have? A MZ-60 with the new 28-105 on it. That was it. A telephoto zoom 100-300 too I think. They didn't even need 1/3. Sad. ** Brad W. Dobo, HBA (Eds.) Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ICQ#: 1658
Re: OT Winter Storm Warning
Thanks for the article, Doug. Don't know as much about Albert as I should. I've bookmarked it, and will look at it at my leisure. cheers, frank Doug Franklin wrote: Herr Einstein had quite penetrating observations about all sorts of stuff beyond physics. He's one of the most interesting people I've ever studied. Here's a very interesting recent article on him. http://www.usnews.com/usnews/issue/021209/misc/9einstein.htm TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ -- The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer
Who has switched to Pentax and why?
For me, Pentax was a no-brainer. My wife shot a K-1000 as a reporter for half a decade, so when I got the bug, I studied a little bit, and the PDML more than anything put me in K-mount. My first camera was a KM, and I was hooked. Those of you who have dabbled in the NCMO world, why are you here now? Hi, my name is Farmina Manahesh Robertson, and I shoot Pentax because __ -Lon
Re: OT: SCSI and XP:( was RE: Hp scanner, printers whatever, they're all bad!)
Having been a Software Engineer most of my adult life (and at FIRST, loving it), I can only say that EyeOfNewt and WingOfBat apply way to strongly to computers. And smart cameras. Now where's me KX? THAR's a camera without brains. Mark Roberts wrote: You can also turn on most SCSI devices *after* the computer is booted and get the computer to recognize them by following the procedure described here: http://www.scantips.com/scsitip.html#boot
Re: Just a little P***ed Off!
Someone's a bit of a mongrel aren't they? Cheers Shaun Paul Jones wrote: Ditto. I share your displeasure in learning that someone on the list provoked Tom. I'm also somewhat dismayed that Tom would complain without first inquiring. Regards, Paul Jones . -- Shaun Canning Cultural Heritage Services High Street, Broadford, Victoria, 3658. www.heritageservices.com.au/ Phone: 0414-967644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] My images can be seen at www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=238096
Re: Who has switched to Pentax and why?
On Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:58:45 -0500 Lon Williamson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For me, Pentax was a no-brainer. My wife shot a K-1000 as a reporter for half a decade, so when I got the bug, I studied a little bit, and the PDML more than anything put me in K-mount. My first camera was a KM, and I was hooked. Those of you who have dabbled in the NCMO world, why are you here now? Hi, my name is Farmina Manahesh Robertson, and I shoot Pentax because__ -Lon Hi, my name is Thomas, and I shoot Pentax because Olympus gave up on film-SLRs a long time ago ...did that make any sense to you? :)
Re: Who has switched to Pentax and why?
Hi, my name is Bill. I switched from Nikon to Pentax for the lenses. William Robb
Re: Who has switched to Pentax and why?
Same story here. My wife had a k-1000 and a couple lenses. It was just natural to build from there. Her biggest complaint now is I have taken over her hobby:) Jim Fellows - Original Message - From: Lon Williamson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: PDML Pentax Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 6:58 PM Subject: Who has switched to Pentax and why? For me, Pentax was a no-brainer. My wife shot a K-1000 as a reporter for half a decade, so when I got the bug, I studied a little bit, and the PDML more than anything put me in K-mount. My first camera was a KM, and I was hooked. Those of you who have dabbled in the NCMO world, why are you here now? Hi, my name is Farmina Manahesh Robertson, and I shoot Pentax because __ -Lon
