date:20140924

I have an Edelux 2 (RBW sells this one too) and a battery powered Ixon IQ.
I think PW says the beam from the newer Eyc is similar to that of the Ixon 
IQ but with the dim spot right in front of the wheel filled in. When I got 
my Ixon IQ I liked it much better than any light I had used before it, so I 
doubt you would be disappointed with the Eyc. The beam from the Edelux is 
broader than my Ixon and fills in close to the bike. The Edelux 2 is great 
too, but I don't vastly prefer its beam over the one from the Ixon. Perhaps 
I'm just not that discerning, others may have a different viewpoint.
The Edelux also has a glass front piece and an aluminum housing so it feels 
like a higher quality item than the plastic lights. 

You should also consider the senso feature (or lack thereof) on specific 
models you are considering. You may like having the light come on 
automatically if it starts getting dark towards the end of a ride, or have 
it go off when it gets light after starting out before dawn. Or you may 
prefer to make your own decisions about on or off.

Oh and while you are at it, the linetec dyno tail light is pretty neat too.

On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:09:21 PM UTC-7, DS wrote:

 Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to go 
 with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some feedback 
 from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos B 
 that Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the 
 Eyc is cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is 
 starting to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike 
 out in the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently 
 attached and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of 
 city streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and 
 occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think oakland 
 hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

and whats the confidence interval ...

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 6:54:30 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 But that's only true 75% of the time... :)

 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin tim@littlevillagemag.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Johan-

 I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple on my Riv Road for several 
 months.  It's a very lovely, very narrow crank set.  I got it (from a list 
 member) with standard extractor and pedal threading.

 However, these old French cranks have very little distance between the 
 big ring and the crank arm (that's how they have such low Q factor), which 
 makes them difficult to shift properly.  I couldn't use any modern FD with 
 a sculpted outer plate or it would hit the crank arm.  I had decent luck 
 with a vintage Suntour Cyclone double FD, shifted friction with Silver 
 levers.  But with that setup it was still very reluctant to shift from the 
 small cog to the middle without going to the big ring first.  

 A triple FD would have a sculpted inner plate to lift the chain better 
 than the double FD, but I couldn't find any triple FDs, vintage or 
 otherwise, that don't also have a scuplted outer plate.

 I recently swapped my Riv to drop bars and index shifting (8 speed Campy 
 Ergos) and I couldn't get any FD to work with that Stronglight crank.  I 
 ended up swapping the Campy Racing Triple crank back on, which shifts 
 perfectly with the IRD Alpina FD.  

 I'm just pointing out that low-Q cranks with little space between the big 
 ring and the crank arm do have some complications.  Whether those 
 complications become drawbacks depends on your priorities.  :)

 With drops and Ergo shifters, my Riv is at least 17% faster.

 And 47% of all statistics are fictional.  :)



 On Sep 23, 2014 7:20 PM, Johan Larsson seven@gmail.com wrote:

 If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts only 
 from the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite narrow gap 
 between the outer chain ring and crank arm. That way it's easy to run it 
 as 
 a wide double (48/28 for example) with 110/74 or any choice of available 
 chain rings and still having a narrow Q-factor.

 It's too bad Grant seems to have given up on striving to keep the 
 Q-factor low. (?) As far as I can tell, you wouldn't lose anything with 
 such a crank, there would only be advantages. If you'd need a wider 
 ring-crank arm gap for some mtb style bike with wide tires and a wide 
 cage 
 front shifter you can add spacers and run it with three rings. Or one. Or 
 four. If you have an old road bike you can keep it lean and narrow and 
 run 
 it as a double with almost an unlimited choice of chain ring combinations 
 and a Q-factor in the 130 mm range, still using standard chain rings. 
 This 
 winter I'm hoping to be able to make such a crank for myself, since I 
 finally have access to a lathe and having collected many old cranks I can 
 modify and take parts from.

 Johan Larsson,
 Sweden

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[RBW] Blug post

2014-09-24 Thread Kainalu

With regards to my electrically welded Hillborne- can't post the picture from 
my phone but if any of you have one in front of you, and assuming this isn't 
just a Waterford built Sam thing, the junction of the chain stay to the 
dropouts is it. 
It only takes one to be either lugged, brazed, or tig'd. Or all three!, which 
mine is.
-Kai
Brooklyn NY

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread Edwin W

Like Riv is for bike advice, PW is for lights. Call him up, tell him your 
intended use, and he will tell you the best option(s). I have not heard of him 
steering anyone down the wrong path (he knows how to illuminate it haha). 
A conversation is worth a thousand group postings, in this case. 

Shown the light by Peter White,
Edwin

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread Tim Gavin

I don't have a dyno setup yet.  But I've researched it a good deal, on
Peter White's site and elsewhere.

If I were to take the plunge today, I'd save some money and buy the Shutter
Precision dyno hub.  They're about half the price of the SON hubs, look as
good, and are very well-rated.

Then I'd splurge the money I just saved on the Luxos U.  The beam pattern
and brightness look perfect, and the USB charger seems like a very useful
thing to have.

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:49 AM, Edwin W dweenda...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Like Riv is for bike advice, PW is for lights. Call him up, tell him your
 intended use, and he will tell you the best option(s). I have not heard of
 him steering anyone down the wrong path (he knows how to illuminate it
 haha).
 A conversation is worth a thousand group postings, in this case.

 Shown the light by Peter White,
 Edwin

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

There are alternatives to rim dynamos as well.  I recently did a user 
(i.e., non-technical) review of a number of different types of generators 
on my blog.  It's fairly long, but if you want to start from the beginning, 
you can go here:  
http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/07/20/the-shocking-truth/.  I 
evaluate hub dynos, bottom bracket dynos, sidewall dynos, and (the newest 
thing!) the Velogical rim dyno.  It's not *definitive*, but it may be 
useful.

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 10:57:48 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:

 I don't have a dyno setup yet.  But I've researched it a good deal, on 
 Peter White's site and elsewhere.

 If I were to take the plunge today, I'd save some money and buy the 
 Shutter Precision dyno hub.  They're about half the price of the SON hubs, 
 look as good, and are very well-rated.  

 Then I'd splurge the money I just saved on the Luxos U.  The beam pattern 
 and brightness look perfect, and the USB charger seems like a very useful 
 thing to have.

 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:49 AM, Edwin W dween...@hotmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Like Riv is for bike advice, PW is for lights. Call him up, tell him your 
 intended use, and he will tell you the best option(s). I have not heard of 
 him steering anyone down the wrong path (he knows how to illuminate it 
 haha).
 A conversation is worth a thousand group postings, in this case.

 Shown the light by Peter White,
 Edwin

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread Jayme Frye

+1 on the BM lights already mentioned. I run the Luxos U on my 
camping/commuting bike for the USB charging and the tiny but super bright 
Eyc on my go fast gravel race bike. Both lights perform fabulously.
Cheers

Jayme 

On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:09:21 PM UTC-5, DS wrote:

 Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to go 
 with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some feedback 
 from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos B 
 that Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the 
 Eyc is cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is 
 starting to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike 
 out in the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently 
 attached and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of 
 city streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and 
 occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think oakland 
 hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

Peter White carries the Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo which is $35 more
expensive than the Eyc but about $80 less than the Edluxe II.  I have
one of these IQ Premium Cyo Senso lights that I bought used off of
this list and I love, love, love it.  It's 80lux and has the same
optics as the Luxos and Edluxe II lights.

I highly recommend this light any chance I get due to the value for
the $.  I think it's just as good as the Edluxe II.

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Jayme Frye jayme.f...@gmail.com wrote:
 +1 on the BM lights already mentioned. I run the Luxos U on my
 camping/commuting bike for the USB charging and the tiny but super bright
 Eyc on my go fast gravel race bike. Both lights perform fabulously.
 Cheers

 Jayme


 On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:09:21 PM UTC-5, DS wrote:

 Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to go
 with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some feedback
 from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos B that
 Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the Eyc is
 cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is starting
 to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike out in
 the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently attached
 and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of city
 streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and
 occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think oakland
 hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread 'Hudson Doerge' via RBW Owners Bunch

Plus one for the new cyo. Excellent price, brightness, and beam optics. Love 
mine. 

Hudson in atx

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[RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

2014-09-24 Thread 'hangtownmatt' via RBW Owners Bunch

Here's my story:

In March 2012, I bought myself a Sam Hillborne frameset.  I  wasn't even in 
the market! My son and daughter were competing in a swim meet at UC 
Berkley, and my wife and I took a little side trip to Walnut Creek during 
some downtime. She was interested in their mixte; the Betty Foy. We didn't 
have a lot of time but the staff took the appropriate measurements and put 
her on the Betty and myself, just for kicks, on the A. Homer Hilsen. Wild 
horses couldn't drag me to a double top tubed Hillborne at that time. 
Everything felt great. The service was terrific and there was absolutely 
zero pressure to buy. Unfortunately, we just didn't have enough time to 
fully test ride the bikes. 

A little background on myself. I'm a Classic  Vintage type. My three rides 
at the time were a 1983 Nishiki Sport, a 1986 Bianchi Squadra and a 1996 
Trek 950 rigid MTB. All three had been upgraded and modified in the 
Rivendell fashion. In other words comfortable. The handlebars on each at 
seat level. I had absolutely no need for another bike. But, for the last 
couple years I was seriously test riding bikes whenever the opportunity 
presented itself. And with my kids being competitive swimmers, we were on 
the road a lot, and I had plenty of opportunities. I test rode a lot of 
bikes in the all-rounder category (ex. Surly CC, Surly LHT in both 26 and 
700c, Bianchi Velope, Raliegh's and many others), but nothing fit better or 
rode better than what I already had.  I figured that if I ever purchased 
another bicycle it would have to be a custom to realized any perceivable 
gains.

Shortly after our first trip to Rivendell we had a weekend where both kids 
were out of town at the same time! We jumped on this opportunity and made 
an appointment with Rivendell for an extended test ride. I left it up to 
Rivendell whether they set me up with a Hilsen or a Hillborne, and told 
them right up front I wasn't in the market. We were there for the Betty 
Foy, and I was just along for another test ride opportunity. When we 
arrived everything was set up and ready to go. Grant remeasured both of us 
again to be sure, but the previous measurements were right on.

To make a long story short, we went on a 4-hour test ride! At the end of it 
all we came home with a Betty Foy, a double top tubed green Sam Hillborne, 
and a couple smiles ear-to-ear. I think what people seem to miss is that 
the value of product is sometimes greater than the sum of its parts. Yes, 
there are less expensive alternatives, but I had never felt more 
comfortable and confident on a bike. 

I've been riding the Hillborne for 2.5 years now and have just surpassed 
10,000 miles.  I've only ridden my Bianchi Squadra once since acquiring the 
Hillborne and all the others are just hanging on hooks in the garage.  
Yesterday I did a 55 mile RT commute and am enjoying the Hillborne as much 
today as I did on new bike day.  Maybe even more because I've really got it 
dialed in.

My philosophy on new bike purchases is that you must test ride before 
purchasing.  My only exception to this rule would be replacing a bicycle 
that has been destroyed in a crash with the same exact model.  My 
philosophy regarding a cost comparison between something like a Surly CC 
and a Rivendell Sam Hillborne goes like this:  Back in 2012 the Surly Cross 
Check frame\fork cost $450. The Sam Hillborne frame\fork cost $1,050. 
Building up both bikes with the same parts the Hillbornewould onlybe $600 
more; the difference being the cost of the frame sets. Life is pretty 
short.  Be sure to get the bicycle that fits and has the features you 
need.  After that everything else falls into place.  Nothing is more 
expensive than trying to save a few bucks on the initial purchase and than 
trying to rectify fit and features.

Just my thoughts.

Matt 

On Monday, September 22, 2014 3:02:14 AM UTC-7, Ty Jeske wrote:

 I've been riding a bargain lugged steel Schwinn Traveler (1982) for the 
 last several years. The frame is a little small for me and I've sunk 
 several times its purchase price into repairs, but it has been a reliable 
 and mostly comfortable steed. For the last week though, I've been borrowing 
 a friend's Long Haul Trucker and I've come to realize that the last 30 
 years have brought desirable advances to bicycle technology. The time has 
 finally come to make an upgrade. I love the ride of steel, and the look of 
 lugged steel in particular, so I'm looking between the LHT and the 
 Rivendell Sam Hillborne. The advantage of the LHT is that I'm riding one 
 now and know exactly what I'd be getting. It's also about half the cost of 
 the Sam. The Sam has the advantage of beautiful lugs, possibly superior 
 components, and a reputation for lasting a lifetime. It also fits my ideal 
 of a comfortable go-anywhere bike. Does anybody have any experience with 
 both that may help me decide? Even better, does anyone know how I may go 
 about test riding the Sam Hillborne? I'm

[RBW] So what is standard Q for...

2014-09-24 Thread lungimsam

1. Road double.
2. Road triple.

Feel free to list by decades. I am guessing standards changed from the olde 
days thru now.

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[RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

Great story, Matt! I imagine there are more than a few Just going for a 
test-ride folks that have left Walnut Creek with a new bike!

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:23:38 AM UTC-7, hangtownmatt wrote:

 Here's my story:

 In March 2012, I bought myself a Sam Hillborne frameset.  I  wasn't even 
 in the market! My son and daughter were competing in a swim meet at UC 
 Berkley, and my wife and I took a little side trip to Walnut Creek during 
 some downtime. She was interested in their mixte; the Betty Foy. We didn't 
 have a lot of time but the staff took the appropriate measurements and put 
 her on the Betty and myself, just for kicks, on the A. Homer Hilsen. Wild 
 horses couldn't drag me to a double top tubed Hillborne at that time. 
 Everything felt great. The service was terrific and there was absolutely 
 zero pressure to buy. Unfortunately, we just didn't have enough time to 
 fully test ride the bikes. 

 A little background on myself. I'm a Classic  Vintage type. My three 
 rides at the time were a 1983 Nishiki Sport, a 1986 Bianchi Squadra and a 
 1996 Trek 950 rigid MTB. All three had been upgraded and modified in the 
 Rivendell fashion. In other words comfortable. The handlebars on each at 
 seat level. I had absolutely no need for another bike. But, for the last 
 couple years I was seriously test riding bikes whenever the opportunity 
 presented itself. And with my kids being competitive swimmers, we were on 
 the road a lot, and I had plenty of opportunities. I test rode a lot of 
 bikes in the all-rounder category (ex. Surly CC, Surly LHT in both 26 and 
 700c, Bianchi Velope, Raliegh's and many others), but nothing fit better or 
 rode better than what I already had.  I figured that if I ever purchased 
 another bicycle it would have to be a custom to realized any perceivable 
 gains.

 Shortly after our first trip to Rivendell we had a weekend where both kids 
 were out of town at the same time! We jumped on this opportunity and made 
 an appointment with Rivendell for an extended test ride. I left it up to 
 Rivendell whether they set me up with a Hilsen or a Hillborne, and told 
 them right up front I wasn't in the market. We were there for the Betty 
 Foy, and I was just along for another test ride opportunity. When we 
 arrived everything was set up and ready to go. Grant remeasured both of us 
 again to be sure, but the previous measurements were right on.

 To make a long story short, we went on a 4-hour test ride! At the end of 
 it all we came home with a Betty Foy, a double top tubed green Sam 
 Hillborne, and a couple smiles ear-to-ear. I think what people seem to 
 miss is that the value of product is sometimes greater than the sum of its 
 parts. Yes, there are less expensive alternatives, but I had never felt 
 more comfortable and confident on a bike. 

 I've been riding the Hillborne for 2.5 years now and have just surpassed 
 10,000 miles.  I've only ridden my Bianchi Squadra once since acquiring the 
 Hillborne and all the others are just hanging on hooks in the garage.  
 Yesterday I did a 55 mile RT commute and am enjoying the Hillborne as much 
 today as I did on new bike day.  Maybe even more because I've really got it 
 dialed in.

 My philosophy on new bike purchases is that you must test ride before 
 purchasing.  My only exception to this rule would be replacing a bicycle 
 that has been destroyed in a crash with the same exact model.  My 
 philosophy regarding a cost comparison between something like a Surly CC 
 and a Rivendell Sam Hillborne goes like this:  Back in 2012 the Surly Cross 
 Check frame\fork cost $450. The Sam Hillborne frame\fork cost $1,050. 
 Building up both bikes with the same parts the Hillbornewould onlybe $600 
 more; the difference being the cost of the frame sets. Life is pretty 
 short.  Be sure to get the bicycle that fits and has the features you 
 need.  After that everything else falls into place.  Nothing is more 
 expensive than trying to save a few bucks on the initial purchase and than 
 trying to rectify fit and features.

 Just my thoughts.

 Matt 

 On Monday, September 22, 2014 3:02:14 AM UTC-7, Ty Jeske wrote:

 I've been riding a bargain lugged steel Schwinn Traveler (1982) for the 
 last several years. The frame is a little small for me and I've sunk 
 several times its purchase price into repairs, but it has been a reliable 
 and mostly comfortable steed. For the last week though, I've been borrowing 
 a friend's Long Haul Trucker and I've come to realize that the last 30 
 years have brought desirable advances to bicycle technology. The time has 
 finally come to make an upgrade. I love the ride of steel, and the look of 
 lugged steel in particular, so I'm looking between the LHT and the 
 Rivendell Sam Hillborne. The advantage of the LHT is that I'm riding one 
 now and know exactly what I'd be getting. It's also about half the cost of 
 the Sam. The Sam has the advantage of beautiful lugs, possibly superior

Re: [RBW] Re: My wife adjusted her handlebars

Yes, you are correct, she needs a women's frame to suit her riding
style, at least with drops.  The reason she didn't go for a taller
frame in what she has now:  The TT would have been longer and she
didn't want that.

Or I could explore the alternate solution, which is to put Albas on
the existing bike.  Probably could be done fairly inexpensively, and
moved to another frame later if necessary.

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 9:23 PM, Mike Schiller
mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 I make it a point not to intervene in marital issues. ha but it
 seems obvious that your wife needs a women's frame. They have shorter top
 tubes but with a frame size that is commensurate with her height.

 None of the Riv models are designed this way.  see this
 http://www.teamestrogen.com/content/wsdBikes

 Short of getting a new frame, which she is opposed to, perhaps a zero
 setback seat post or some compact drop bars( less reach)?

 ~mike


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[RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

I always thought the Cross-check was probably more comparable to the Sam, 
but the LHT isn't far off. All three are smartly designed and versatile. 
All three can be lifetime bikes, if you want them to be. I've extensively 
ridden a Disc Trucker, Cross-check, Atlantis, Romulus, and a few test miles 
on a Sam. There isn't anything magical about the intrinsic ride quality of 
the Sam compared to the two Surly models I mentioned, but it does have an 
extra measure of cosmetic flair, which may or may not be worth the extra 
cost and wait, depending on your point of view. Despite the lower price of 
the Surly, I don't believe there's any sacrifice of quality, which is 
sometimes implied in any Surly vs Riv discussion. Surly's quality control 
is the best of any company I've dealt with - they almost never make 
mistakes.

Here are a few technical details to consider. The Riv uses a 1 quill stem, 
which has some advantage for quickly raising and lowering the bar, but the 
quill stems currently available don't have a 31.8 clamp option. Since 
25.4/26.0 handlebars are getting fewer everyday, and 31.8 is effectively 
standard now, you'll be opting out of some great handlebar options with a 
standard quill stem (there are workarounds to solve this problem, but it's 
better to not have the problem in the first place, IMO). The Surly frames 
come with a threadless steerer, which makes switching to different bars 
much easier/cheaper. In general, threaded steerers and quill stems are 
regarded as outdated in the bicycle industry, and few manufacturers are 
supporting that design anymore. That makes the Surly somewhat more 
future-proof in regard to headsets, stems, and handlebars. I see the 
quill stems as a fairly major inconvenience, but, of course, the quill 
stems have an aesthetic effect that some people prefer, and I can't argue 
that. A second consideration is how you plan to accessorize the bike. Rivs 
tend to have rack braze-ons designed around the Nitto racks that they sell, 
while Surly frames have braze-ons designed around more universal rack 
designs. The rack thing shouldn't be a deal-breaker, because many racks 
will fit on the back of a Riv, but it does get difficult if you want, say, 
a Tubus low-rider rack on the fork of a Riv.



On Monday, September 22, 2014 5:02:14 AM UTC-5, Ty Jeske wrote:

 I've been riding a bargain lugged steel Schwinn Traveler (1982) for the 
 last several years. The frame is a little small for me and I've sunk 
 several times its purchase price into repairs, but it has been a reliable 
 and mostly comfortable steed. For the last week though, I've been borrowing 
 a friend's Long Haul Trucker and I've come to realize that the last 30 
 years have brought desirable advances to bicycle technology. The time has 
 finally come to make an upgrade. I love the ride of steel, and the look of 
 lugged steel in particular, so I'm looking between the LHT and the 
 Rivendell Sam Hillborne. The advantage of the LHT is that I'm riding one 
 now and know exactly what I'd be getting. It's also about half the cost of 
 the Sam. The Sam has the advantage of beautiful lugs, possibly superior 
 components, and a reputation for lasting a lifetime. It also fits my ideal 
 of a comfortable go-anywhere bike. Does anybody have any experience with 
 both that may help me decide? Even better, does anyone know how I may go 
 about test riding the Sam Hillborne? I'm in Tampa FL.

 I plan to use the bike much as I do my current one. Mostly recreational 
 rides (15-40 mi), fetching groceries, etc. The occasional overnight camping 
 trip and rare credit card or light touring. Whatever I get will need to 
 take me through the level wooded area and fields between my house and the 
 nearest paved bike trail.


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Re: [RBW] Re: My wife adjusted her handlebars

2014-09-24 Thread Doug Van Cleve

For an upright bar setup, with typical RBW bar height, the frame size has
very little to do with anything.  A tall Nitto stem and upright bars will
work fine, even on a smallish frame IMHO.  You will need to do some
guessing on stem length.  It won't look the best, but it doesn't look good
anyway ;^)BTW, those brifter will work on Albatross bars, mounted as if
they were moustache bars.  Not sure if the angles well get weird with the
bars right side up, but flipped they mount nicely.

Doug

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:53 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, you are correct, she needs a women's frame to suit her riding
 style, at least with drops.  The reason she didn't go for a taller
 frame in what she has now:  The TT would have been longer and she
 didn't want that.

 Or I could explore the alternate solution, which is to put Albas on
 the existing bike.  Probably could be done fairly inexpensively, and
 moved to another frame later if necessary.

 On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 9:23 PM, Mike Schiller
 mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
  I make it a point not to intervene in marital issues. ha but it
  seems obvious that your wife needs a women's frame. They have shorter top
  tubes but with a frame size that is commensurate with her height.
 
  None of the Riv models are designed this way.  see this
  http://www.teamestrogen.com/content/wsdBikes
 
  Short of getting a new frame, which she is opposed to, perhaps a zero
  setback seat post or some compact drop bars( less reach)?
 
  ~mike
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and good 
shifting and a wide range of gears. Personally, I like the direction things 
are going with the wide range 1x10 and 1x11 stuff. Single chainring 
eliminates all these pesky front derailleur compatibility and functionality 
issues, and most chain suck issues. Rear derailleurs simply work more 
reliably than front derailleurs, and 11-42 cassettes with a carefully 
selected chainring size will get most of us up most of the grades that we 
ride. For example, for a hypothetical 700 mm wheel diameter, and a 36t 
chainring, you get a range of 24-90 gear inches. I can sacrifice higher and 
lower gears to not have front derailleur problems anymore.

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:31:01 AM UTC-5, ted wrote:

 and whats the confidence interval ...

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 6:54:30 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 But that's only true 75% of the time... :)

 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin tim@littlevillagemag.com 
 wrote:

 Johan-

 I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple on my Riv Road for several 
 months.  It's a very lovely, very narrow crank set.  I got it (from a list 
 member) with standard extractor and pedal threading.

 However, these old French cranks have very little distance between the 
 big ring and the crank arm (that's how they have such low Q factor), which 
 makes them difficult to shift properly.  I couldn't use any modern FD with 
 a sculpted outer plate or it would hit the crank arm.  I had decent luck 
 with a vintage Suntour Cyclone double FD, shifted friction with Silver 
 levers.  But with that setup it was still very reluctant to shift from the 
 small cog to the middle without going to the big ring first.  

 A triple FD would have a sculpted inner plate to lift the chain better 
 than the double FD, but I couldn't find any triple FDs, vintage or 
 otherwise, that don't also have a scuplted outer plate.

 I recently swapped my Riv to drop bars and index shifting (8 speed Campy 
 Ergos) and I couldn't get any FD to work with that Stronglight crank.  I 
 ended up swapping the Campy Racing Triple crank back on, which shifts 
 perfectly with the IRD Alpina FD.  

 I'm just pointing out that low-Q cranks with little space between the 
 big ring and the crank arm do have some complications.  Whether those 
 complications become drawbacks depends on your priorities.  :)

 With drops and Ergo shifters, my Riv is at least 17% faster.

 And 47% of all statistics are fictional.  :)



 On Sep 23, 2014 7:20 PM, Johan Larsson seven@gmail.com wrote:

 If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts only 
 from the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite narrow gap 
 between the outer chain ring and crank arm. That way it's easy to run it 
 as 
 a wide double (48/28 for example) with 110/74 or any choice of available 
 chain rings and still having a narrow Q-factor.

 It's too bad Grant seems to have given up on striving to keep the 
 Q-factor low. (?) As far as I can tell, you wouldn't lose anything with 
 such a crank, there would only be advantages. If you'd need a wider 
 ring-crank arm gap for some mtb style bike with wide tires and a wide 
 cage 
 front shifter you can add spacers and run it with three rings. Or one. 
 Or 
 four. If you have an old road bike you can keep it lean and narrow and 
 run 
 it as a double with almost an unlimited choice of chain ring 
 combinations 
 and a Q-factor in the 130 mm range, still using standard chain rings. 
 This 
 winter I'm hoping to be able to make such a crank for myself, since I 
 finally have access to a lathe and having collected many old cranks I 
 can 
 modify and take parts from.

 Johan Larsson,
 Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: Minneapolis country bike rally

Surly loaned me several fat bikes. Four Ice Cream Trucks and a couple 
Moonlanders in various sizes. We will add these to the HC family fat bike 
stable, and have lots of bikes available to demo. 9am 9/27 Saturday 
morning. Meet at HC to ride to the demo site, or just go to the parking lot 
near the interpretive center at Fort Snelling state park.

On Saturday, September 20, 2014 12:52:35 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 Hey, I finally posted some details about the rally next weekend. Hope to 
 see many of you there. tell your friends!
 http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2014/09/country-bike-rally-details.html

 On Thursday, September 11, 2014 1:48:15 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 Ha, I enjoy the drive across northern Wisconsin! Too bad you can't make 
 it, Michael. 

 On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 3:35:52 PM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Jim, Alas Pat and I need to bow out of this event, although we are sorry 
 to miss it.  It turns out that after a very,very, busy summer neither one 
 of us was up for the 4 days of driving to  from St Paul.  We have made the 
 trip before.  The road through Ontario is really only worth seeing once and 
 after you leave Green Bay (the bay not the city) northern Wisconsin is 
 dreadfully boring.  We need to relax more, spend and drive less.  We will 
 drive one day through scenic southern NE and then take the tandem to Block 
 Island ( 6 hours off the coast of RI) for two days.

 Michael


 On Thursday, August 28, 2014 12:05:41 PM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 Been chatting with some friends, and I think it might be fun to have a 
 fatbike demo on one of the days. Fat bikes have nothing to do with 
 Rivendell, but they are about as country as bikes get. Any thoughts? 



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Re: [RBW] So what is standard Q for...

2014-09-24 Thread Goshen Peter

Only thing I've ever read is on here and the fine folks at riv.

https://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=54
On Sep 24, 2014 12:24 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 1. Road double.
 2. Road triple.

 Feel free to list by decades. I am guessing standards changed from the
 olde days thru now.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread Eric Norris

I've used the Edeluxe and the Cyo--all of my dyno-powered bikes now have 
various flavors of the Cyo. I haven't used the Edeluxe II, but I found the beam 
pattern on the Cyo lights to be better than the original Edeluxe ... at a lower 
cost.

I'm currently using one of the newer Cyo lights on my Blériot. I got the 
slightly upgraded model that has a daytime running light and a 
sensor-controlled full headlight. I like the light, and my only complaint is 
that there's no way during the daytime to force the full headlight to come on. 
During the day, it's either the daytime light or nothing. If I could redesign 
the light, I would eliminate the  sensor function and have three settings: 
Off/Daytime/Full

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

 On Sep 24, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Peter White carries the Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo which is $35 more
 expensive than the Eyc but about $80 less than the Edluxe II.  I have
 one of these IQ Premium Cyo Senso lights that I bought used off of
 this list and I love, love, love it.  It's 80lux and has the same
 optics as the Luxos and Edluxe II lights.
 
 I highly recommend this light any chance I get due to the value for
 the $.  I think it's just as good as the Edluxe II.
 
 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Jayme Frye jayme.f...@gmail.com wrote:
 +1 on the BM lights already mentioned. I run the Luxos U on my
 camping/commuting bike for the USB charging and the tiny but super bright
 Eyc on my go fast gravel race bike. Both lights perform fabulously.
 Cheers
 
 Jayme
 
 
 On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:09:21 PM UTC-5, DS wrote:
 
 Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to go
 with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some feedback
 from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos B that
 Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the Eyc is
 cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is starting
 to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike out in
 the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently attached
 and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of city
 streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and
 occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think oakland
 hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding.
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!


On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and 
good shifting and a wide range of gears. 


A friend of mine has a Jeff Lyon L'Avecaise equipped with 650Bx42 Hetres 
and a Rene Herse crank.  Big tires, good shifting and wide range, and 
low Q.  It can definitely be done.





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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

2014-09-24 Thread EGNolan

Jim said difficult, not impossible. I personally like 1x's as well, though 
I haven't made it over 7 in the rear yet...
 
Best,
Eric
Indpls
 

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:24:53 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: 
  It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and 
  good shifting and a wide range of gears. 

 A friend of mine has a Jeff Lyon L'Avecaise equipped with 650Bx42 Hetres 
 and a Rene Herse crank.  Big tires, good shifting and wide range, and 
 low Q.  It can definitely be done. 






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Re: [RBW] Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread Anne Paulson

Since the Luxos U is Manny-approved, I ordered it today. I'll mount it
on the handlebars.

I'm removing the Plug USB port that mounts in the headset from my
bike. I'll sell it cheap to anyone who wants it.

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 8:52 PM, Manuel Acosta
manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Anne so far good on trails. I have it mounted right side under my basket.
 So basket takes brunt of the damage if/when I take the time to smell the 
 grass. I havent had it long but I have been riding prerty hard on it. With 
 the rain on the tour I made a mini fender underneath it using a recycled 
 botan candy box. It has since been replace with a fancy cut up coke can.

 Theres pictures somewhere on the interweb...maybe

 Its charges my internet phone well.

 Its my first and only dyno hub so I know no other comparisons.



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It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.

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Re: [RBW] So what is standard Q for...

2014-09-24 Thread Jan Heine

Today, most racing doubles have a Q factor of 146-148 mm. Campagnolo is 
very consistent at 146, others vary a bit. Road triples usually are about 
10 mm wider.

For example, our Rene Herse doubles have a Q factor of 142 mm when set up 
with a 43.5 mm chainline. (I run mine with a narrower chainline, since I 
usually ride on the – relatively small – big ring, so I get a Q of 139 mm). 
The R. Herse triple is designed for a 44 mm chainline, and you get a Q 
factor of 153 mm. If your bike requires a wider chainline because the 
chainstays aren't optimally designed, then you obviously get a wider Q (and 
not-quite-optimal shifting).

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

2014-09-24 Thread Will

+1.

To which I add:

Riding seasons vary. In WI, for example, unless you wish to install studded 
tires, the season ends in early December, returns late March. Your body 
looses elasticity during the off-season. So the first 2-3 weeks in March 
you need to raise the bars and lower the seat. Not much, but a little. Then 
as your riding fitness returns, the seat returns to last year's level, and 
the bars drop, just a bit. This fine tuning matches your body's increasing 
limberness. 

I also notice that I change my cockpit slightly depending on the 
temperature. In summer, shorts and sandals (and lots of mileage) make it 
easy and desireable to stretch out. In late fall when it's cold, wearing 
bulky clothes and winter shoes, reduce mobility, and a somewhat shorter, 
more upright, cockpit is fits better. 

For me, these are always modest adjustments: ~1 cm here or there. But 
feeling dialed in is nice, particularly when you can do it in less than a 
minute. Quills make this possible. 
 



On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:22:03 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 09/24/2014 01:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
  
 I always thought the Cross-check was probably more comparable to the Sam, 
 but the LHT isn't far off. All three are smartly designed and versatile. 
 All three can be lifetime bikes, if you want them to be. I've extensively 
 ridden a Disc Trucker, Cross-check, Atlantis, Romulus, and a few test miles 
 on a Sam. There isn't anything magical about the intrinsic ride quality of 
 the Sam compared to the two Surly models I mentioned, but it does have an 
 extra measure of cosmetic flair, which may or may not be worth the extra 
 cost and wait, depending on your point of view. Despite the lower price of 
 the Surly, I don't believe there's any sacrifice of quality, which is 
 sometimes implied in any Surly vs Riv discussion. Surly's quality control 
 is the best of any company I've dealt with - they almost never make 
 mistakes.

 Here are a few technical details to consider. The Riv uses a 1 quill 
 stem, which has some advantage for quickly raising and lowering the bar, 
 but the quill stems currently available don't have a 31.8 clamp option. 
 Since 25.4/26.0 handlebars are getting fewer everyday, and 31.8 is 
 effectively standard now, you'll be opting out of some great handlebar 
 options with a standard quill stem (there are workarounds to solve this 
 problem, but it's better to not have the problem in the first place, IMO). 
 The Surly frames come with a threadless steerer, which makes switching to 
 different bars much easier/cheaper. In general, threaded steerers and quill 
 stems are regarded as outdated in the bicycle industry, and few 
 manufacturers are supporting that design anymore. That makes the Surly 
 somewhat more future-proof in regard to headsets, stems, and handlebars. 
 I see the quill stems as a fairly major inconvenience, but, of course, the 
 quill stems have an aesthetic effect that some people prefer, and I can't 
 argue that. A second consideration is how you plan to accessorize the bike. 
 Rivs tend to have rack braze-ons designed around the Nitto racks that they 
 sell, while Surly frames have braze-ons designed around more universal rack 
 designs. The rack thing shouldn't be a deal-breaker, because many racks 
 will fit on the back of a Riv, but it does get difficult if you want, say, 
 a Tubus low-rider rack on the fork of a Riv.

  
 In my personal experience, the biggest issue regarding a lifetime 
 bicycle is the ability to adjust your position to physiological changes 
 that occur with time.  Most significant of these, certainly for me and 
 probably for most, has been the need to raise the handlebar position.  In 
 my 30s, I had a 5 drop.  In my 50s, 5cm below the saddle was fine.  By the 
 time I turned 60, as mile 80 rolled around I'd feel as though a railroad 
 spike had been hammered down into the back of my neck, a problem that was 
 solved by raising the bars to seat height.

 Step 1 with threadless is to cut the steerer.  And once you have done 
 that, there is no way to make it longer again.   Yes, you could go for more 
 of an up-angle, but unless you started out with a -17 (and odds are you 
 actually started out with an up-angled stem already) you're very limited in 
 how much higher you can go.  

 With a quill stem you can not only raise the bars, if necessary you can 
 substitute a stem with a longer quill.  

 Let's take this bike as a case in point.



 It was originally built for a well known New England randonneur in 1991, 
 for the 100th anniversary PBP.  Here's how he had it set up when I bought 
 it in 2002:



 Not quite slammed, but the stem is easily several inches lower than I 
 could use.  Switching from a standard quill length to a Technomic made 
 this frame usable for me.  If it had been threadless, there would have been 
 no way on earth I could have ridden this bike.   Which would have been a 
 terrible shame,

Re: [RBW] So what is standard Q for...

2014-09-24 Thread Patrick Moore

This just for one particular crank, the TA Pro 5 Vis (older model). When I
used them as doubles, these have Qs of about 135 mm on a 115 mm spindle. I
daresay the newer models, with more space between outside of right arm and
inside of outer ring, may be a bit wider.

Same TA crank set up as compact double for very wide MTB frame (60 mm tires
+ fenders + room for mud) Q of 160 on a 145 mm custom spindle (44/30 in
middle and inner positions).

For a modern crank: the Sugino XD2 I use has a Q of 160 on a 113 spindle.

160 mm is about the outside limit of comfort for me; 130 about the inside
limit. The TA P5V singles on my Rivs have 130 mm Qs on 113 mm bbs.

Lastly, when I measured the Q of the single ring cottered cranks on a
Raleigh Sport, it was no more than 120 mm -- too narrow for me.

I haven't measured the Q of the double 7410 crank now on the Ram (103 mm
spindle) but I guesstimate it's roughly 140-145.

Going from 130 to 160 is noticeable for 5 minutes; going from 130 to the
7410 is not noticeable.

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:24 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 1. Road double.
 2. Road triple.

 Feel free to list by decades. I am guessing standards changed from the
 olde days thru now.

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  * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
* Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- *Flannery O'Connor,* Wise Blood  *

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[RBW] Microshift thumbies?

Anyone tried these?

http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_doubletriple_9_speed_thumb_shifters_silver-LD0110.php

The cost of setting up the Paul's thumbie adaptor and a new pair of
D/A 9 speed shifters is pushing $200.  The Microshifts look like a
nice alternative.

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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

I lot of us don't consider 42 mm tires to be especially large.

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:24:53 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: 
  It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and 
  good shifting and a wide range of gears. 

 A friend of mine has a Jeff Lyon L'Avecaise equipped with 650Bx42 Hetres 
 and a Rene Herse crank.  Big tires, good shifting and wide range, and 
 low Q.  It can definitely be done. 






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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

What you need to worry about is future-proofing your ability to fit on the 
bike long term.  And there, threadless falls on its face.

I disagree.  In the special case of 1 threadless with a steel steerer, no 
matter how short you happened to cut the steerer, you can always get 
equivalent adjustability to a quill stem..by having the steerer 
threaded and converting to a quill stem.  ;-)

Bill watching-the-bars-rise-as-the-years-roll-by Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

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Re: [RBW] Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread David Stein

I finalized on the Luxos B. Thanks for the input, will report back on it!

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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

Big tires are in the eye of the beholder.  28mm for some.  75mm for others
Narrow Q is in the eye of the beholder.  130mm for some.  165mm for others
Good shifting is in the eye of the beholder.  Doesn't chain suck for some. 
 Doesn't make a sound for others
Wide range gearing is in the eye of the beholder.  50-95 inches on a double 
for some.  18-110 inches on a triple for others
Difficult is in the eye of the beholder.  Can be done by a top builder 
for some.  Is done by mass producers for others

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:19:22 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 I lot of us don't consider 42 mm tires to be especially large.

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:24:53 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: 
  It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and 
  good shifting and a wide range of gears. 

 A friend of mine has a Jeff Lyon L'Avecaise equipped with 650Bx42 Hetres 
 and a Rene Herse crank.  Big tires, good shifting and wide range, and 
 low Q.  It can definitely be done. 






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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes often 
change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that a new 
Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a Nitto quill 
stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, which a lot of people 
do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an issue for many years.

I would strongly suggest NOT threading a threadless fork. It seems very 
unsafe to me

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:22:03 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 09/24/2014 01:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
  
 I always thought the Cross-check was probably more comparable to the Sam, 
 but the LHT isn't far off. All three are smartly designed and versatile. 
 All three can be lifetime bikes, if you want them to be. I've extensively 
 ridden a Disc Trucker, Cross-check, Atlantis, Romulus, and a few test miles 
 on a Sam. There isn't anything magical about the intrinsic ride quality of 
 the Sam compared to the two Surly models I mentioned, but it does have an 
 extra measure of cosmetic flair, which may or may not be worth the extra 
 cost and wait, depending on your point of view. Despite the lower price of 
 the Surly, I don't believe there's any sacrifice of quality, which is 
 sometimes implied in any Surly vs Riv discussion. Surly's quality control 
 is the best of any company I've dealt with - they almost never make 
 mistakes.

 Here are a few technical details to consider. The Riv uses a 1 quill 
 stem, which has some advantage for quickly raising and lowering the bar, 
 but the quill stems currently available don't have a 31.8 clamp option. 
 Since 25.4/26.0 handlebars are getting fewer everyday, and 31.8 is 
 effectively standard now, you'll be opting out of some great handlebar 
 options with a standard quill stem (there are workarounds to solve this 
 problem, but it's better to not have the problem in the first place, IMO). 
 The Surly frames come with a threadless steerer, which makes switching to 
 different bars much easier/cheaper. In general, threaded steerers and quill 
 stems are regarded as outdated in the bicycle industry, and few 
 manufacturers are supporting that design anymore. That makes the Surly 
 somewhat more future-proof in regard to headsets, stems, and handlebars. 
 I see the quill stems as a fairly major inconvenience, but, of course, the 
 quill stems have an aesthetic effect that some people prefer, and I can't 
 argue that. A second consideration is how you plan to accessorize the bike. 
 Rivs tend to have rack braze-ons designed around the Nitto racks that they 
 sell, while Surly frames have braze-ons designed around more universal rack 
 designs. The rack thing shouldn't be a deal-breaker, because many racks 
 will fit on the back of a Riv, but it does get difficult if you want, say, 
 a Tubus low-rider rack on the fork of a Riv.

  
 In my personal experience, the biggest issue regarding a lifetime 
 bicycle is the ability to adjust your position to physiological changes 
 that occur with time.  Most significant of these, certainly for me and 
 probably for most, has been the need to raise the handlebar position.  In 
 my 30s, I had a 5 drop.  In my 50s, 5cm below the saddle was fine.  By the 
 time I turned 60, as mile 80 rolled around I'd feel as though a railroad 
 spike had been hammered down into the back of my neck, a problem that was 
 solved by raising the bars to seat height.

 Step 1 with threadless is to cut the steerer.  And once you have done 
 that, there is no way to make it longer again.   Yes, you could go for more 
 of an up-angle, but unless you started out with a -17 (and odds are you 
 actually started out with an up-angled stem already) you're very limited in 
 how much higher you can go.  

 With a quill stem you can not only raise the bars, if necessary you can 
 substitute a stem with a longer quill.  

 Let's take this bike as a case in point.



 It was originally built for a well known New England randonneur in 1991, 
 for the 100th anniversary PBP.  Here's how he had it set up when I bought 
 it in 2002:



 Not quite slammed, but the stem is easily several inches lower than I 
 could use.  Switching from a standard quill length to a Technomic made 
 this frame usable for me.  If it had been threadless, there would have been 
 no way on earth I could have ridden this bike.   Which would have been a 
 terrible shame, because I love this bike.

 I think worrying about the future availability of 25.4 or 26.0 handlebars, 
 quill stems and threaded headsets is worrying about the wrong thing.  There 
 are plenty of bars, stems and headsets and I'm confident there will 
 continue to be.  What you need to worry about is future-proofing your 
 ability to fit on the bike long term.  And there, threadless falls on its 
 face.





  

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[RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

2014-09-24 Thread Shoji Takahashi

Hi Jim,
If you're not too particular on looks, the SunRace thumbies sold by Riv 
work really well. Even includes housing and cables!
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh3.htm

Good luck on the new set up!
shoji


On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:19:07 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Anyone tried these? 


 http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_doubletriple_9_speed_thumb_shifters_silver-LD0110.php
  

 The cost of setting up the Paul's thumbie adaptor and a new pair of 
 D/A 9 speed shifters is pushing $200.  The Microshifts look like a 
 nice alternative. 

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice


On 09/24/2014 04:23 PM, Joe Broach wrote:


It's worth noting that you can quick adjust the newfangled stems' 
height, too, if you use Sheldon's method and clamp a cable hanger or 
seatpost collar around the steerer below the stem. That holds the 
headset adjustment when you remove the stem and shuffle spacers 
around. I go even further afield when I'm monkeying with fit and 
remove the spacers entirely, then it's truly as simple as a quill 
stem, if not as tidy looking.




Yes, but those are tiny adjustments.  They address Will's seasonal 
tweaks, yes, but don't address the long-term changes I was alluding to.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice


On 09/24/2014 04:19 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:


I disagree.  In the special case of 1 threadless with a steel 
steerer, no matter how short you happened to cut the steerer, you can 
always get equivalent adjustability to a quill stem..by having the 
steerer threaded and converting to a quill stem.  ;-)




A very special case indeed...



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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

Of course, if someone is devoted to quill stems, then I would expect that 
person to be devoted to traditional handlebar designs, to the exclusion 
of newer designs. I personally think the Jones Loop bar is the best 
all-around bar for my riding. I can't do that with a quill stem. There are 
a lot more 31.8 bars than there are 26.0 bars nowadays. I prefer to have 
the option rather than be locked in to a standard that appears to be dying, 
or at least dwindling.

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:36:36 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes 
 often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that a 
 new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a Nitto quill 
 stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, which a lot of people 
 do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an issue for many years.

 I would strongly suggest NOT threading a threadless fork. It seems very 
 unsafe to me

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:22:03 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 09/24/2014 01:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
  
 I always thought the Cross-check was probably more comparable to the Sam, 
 but the LHT isn't far off. All three are smartly designed and versatile. 
 All three can be lifetime bikes, if you want them to be. I've extensively 
 ridden a Disc Trucker, Cross-check, Atlantis, Romulus, and a few test miles 
 on a Sam. There isn't anything magical about the intrinsic ride quality of 
 the Sam compared to the two Surly models I mentioned, but it does have an 
 extra measure of cosmetic flair, which may or may not be worth the extra 
 cost and wait, depending on your point of view. Despite the lower price of 
 the Surly, I don't believe there's any sacrifice of quality, which is 
 sometimes implied in any Surly vs Riv discussion. Surly's quality control 
 is the best of any company I've dealt with - they almost never make 
 mistakes.

 Here are a few technical details to consider. The Riv uses a 1 quill 
 stem, which has some advantage for quickly raising and lowering the bar, 
 but the quill stems currently available don't have a 31.8 clamp option. 
 Since 25.4/26.0 handlebars are getting fewer everyday, and 31.8 is 
 effectively standard now, you'll be opting out of some great handlebar 
 options with a standard quill stem (there are workarounds to solve this 
 problem, but it's better to not have the problem in the first place, IMO). 
 The Surly frames come with a threadless steerer, which makes switching to 
 different bars much easier/cheaper. In general, threaded steerers and quill 
 stems are regarded as outdated in the bicycle industry, and few 
 manufacturers are supporting that design anymore. That makes the Surly 
 somewhat more future-proof in regard to headsets, stems, and handlebars. 
 I see the quill stems as a fairly major inconvenience, but, of course, the 
 quill stems have an aesthetic effect that some people prefer, and I can't 
 argue that. A second consideration is how you plan to accessorize the bike. 
 Rivs tend to have rack braze-ons designed around the Nitto racks that they 
 sell, while Surly frames have braze-ons designed around more universal rack 
 designs. The rack thing shouldn't be a deal-breaker, because many racks 
 will fit on the back of a Riv, but it does get difficult if you want, say, 
 a Tubus low-rider rack on the fork of a Riv.

  
 In my personal experience, the biggest issue regarding a lifetime 
 bicycle is the ability to adjust your position to physiological changes 
 that occur with time.  Most significant of these, certainly for me and 
 probably for most, has been the need to raise the handlebar position.  In 
 my 30s, I had a 5 drop.  In my 50s, 5cm below the saddle was fine.  By the 
 time I turned 60, as mile 80 rolled around I'd feel as though a railroad 
 spike had been hammered down into the back of my neck, a problem that was 
 solved by raising the bars to seat height.

 Step 1 with threadless is to cut the steerer.  And once you have done 
 that, there is no way to make it longer again.   Yes, you could go for more 
 of an up-angle, but unless you started out with a -17 (and odds are you 
 actually started out with an up-angled stem already) you're very limited in 
 how much higher you can go.  

 With a quill stem you can not only raise the bars, if necessary you can 
 substitute a stem with a longer quill.  

 Let's take this bike as a case in point.



 It was originally built for a well known New England randonneur in 1991, 
 for the 100th anniversary PBP.  Here's how he had it set up when I bought 
 it in 2002:



 Not quite slammed, but the stem is easily several inches lower than I 
 could use.  Switching from a standard quill length to a Technomic made 
 this frame usable for me.  If it had been threadless, there would have been 
 no way on earth I could have ridden this bike.   Which would have been a

Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

2014-09-24 Thread Garth

LoL ...   Yes Bill !   
The I of the beholder indeed ! 

The best bike ever, and the best parts ever .  . . .are Ones I HAVE !


On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:28:45 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 *Big tires are in the eye of the beholder.  28mm for some.  75mm for 
 others*
 *Narrow Q is in the eye of the beholder.  130mm for some.  165mm for 
 others*
 *Good shifting is in the eye of the beholder.  Doesn't chain suck for 
 some.  Doesn't make a sound for others*
 *Wide range gearing is in the eye of the beholder.  50-95 inches on a 
 double for some.  18-110 inches on a triple for others*
 *Difficult is in the eye of the beholder.  Can be done by a top builder 
 for some.  Is done by mass producers for others*

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:19:22 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 I lot of us don't consider 42 mm tires to be especially large.

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:24:53 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: 
  It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and 
  good shifting and a wide range of gears. 

 A friend of mine has a Jeff Lyon L'Avecaise equipped with 650Bx42 Hetres 
 and a Rene Herse crank.  Big tires, good shifting and wide range, and 
 low Q.  It can definitely be done. 






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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!


On 09/24/2014 04:19 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:

I lot of us don't consider 42 mm tires to be especially large.


Once you start getting beyond the demi-ballon size you're right, it 
becomes very difficult to maintain reasonable Q factors and all the rest.





On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:24:53 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
 It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big
tires and
 good shifting and a wide range of gears.

A friend of mine has a Jeff Lyon L'Avecaise equipped with 650Bx42
Hetres
and a Rene Herse crank.  Big tires, good shifting and wide range, and
low Q.  It can definitely be done.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice


On 09/24/2014 04:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes 
often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that 
a new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a 
Nitto quill stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, 
which a lot of people do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an 
issue for many years.




And a new fork of comparable quality to a Nitto stem will cost over six 
times as much, about as much as a new frame of comparable (or even 
superior) quality to the Surly frame, based on what we learned in the 
discussion of the Lyon forks.  Basically, I interpret all this as saying 
frames made for threadless forks should be considered disposable.  And 
I'm sure there are plenty of production frames out there that 
legitimately could be considered disposable tools. Certainly the LHT 
qualifies.  But I don't consider a frame like my Longstaff a disposable 
tool.



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[RBW] Re: A different kind of S24O

2014-09-24 Thread Deacon Patrick

Great news update! I've been steadily increasing what I can do and am 
amazed by how quickly things are returning. Did a photo hike where I 
usually run, but it is 5+ miles of steep trails and 3 miles of fairly steep 
biking (12%), so I'm already riding steeper than I'd dared hoped would be 
possible after a few weeks, let alone less than a week!.
No bikes, but here are the photos from the sissy photo hike in case you 
have a hankering for Colorado aspen: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157647572401887/

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

I'm talking about replacing the stock for on a LHT with the same exact fork 
with a longer steerer, if aging or injury (or whatever) makes it desirable 
to have higher bars. Upgrading to a more magical fork is another matter. 
Robert Pirsig had a famous book about a guy who drove himself insane trying 
to define quality, so I won't try to argue whether or not a Surly fork is 
of the same quality as a Nitto stem. 

Interesting point about disposability. To an extent, you are right. This 
doesn't mean you're likely to wear out your LHT anytime soon, but let's say 
you wreck it somehow. No problem, for $400ish, you can get another one just 
like it tomorrow. For more precious frames, like your Longstaff or most 
Rivs, replacement will be more costly in terms of time and money.

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:51:33 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 09/24/2014 04:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: 
  For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes 
  often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that 
  a new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a 
  Nitto quill stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, 
  which a lot of people do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an 
  issue for many years. 
  

 And a new fork of comparable quality to a Nitto stem will cost over six 
 times as much, about as much as a new frame of comparable (or even 
 superior) quality to the Surly frame, based on what we learned in the 
 discussion of the Lyon forks.  Basically, I interpret all this as saying 
 frames made for threadless forks should be considered disposable.  And 
 I'm sure there are plenty of production frames out there that 
 legitimately could be considered disposable tools. Certainly the LHT 
 qualifies.  But I don't consider a frame like my Longstaff a disposable 
 tool. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

This post is addressed to nobody in particular, so don't take it
personal.  Instead, it's addressed towards group think that tends to
overtake any skepticism that might naturally occur towards new trends.

In many ways I am adherent to the old-school ways of doing things, but
if there's one area I really regret pursuing it's low-Q.  IT'S NOT FOR
EVERYONE AND IT'S NOT A PANACEA.

The hype about narrow Q-factor cost me a lot of cartilage in my knees.

Oh how many nights I laid in bed with throbbing knees.  If only I had
not listened.  What I really needed to do was go the opposite
direction.  I'm glad I finally came to realize that.  Otherwise, I
might not be riding at all, because it hurt so much.

Just think about it, next time you are bloviating about Q-factor.

Jim
The hype about narrow Q-factor cost me a lot of cartilage in my knees.

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 12:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
 It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and good
 shifting and a wide range of gears. Personally, I like the direction things
 are going with the wide range 1x10 and 1x11 stuff. Single chainring
 eliminates all these pesky front derailleur compatibility and functionality
 issues, and most chain suck issues. Rear derailleurs simply work more
 reliably than front derailleurs, and 11-42 cassettes with a carefully
 selected chainring size will get most of us up most of the grades that we
 ride. For example, for a hypothetical 700 mm wheel diameter, and a 36t
 chainring, you get a range of 24-90 gear inches. I can sacrifice higher and
 lower gears to not have front derailleur problems anymore.


 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:31:01 AM UTC-5, ted wrote:

 and whats the confidence interval ...

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 6:54:30 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 But that's only true 75% of the time... :)

 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin tim@littlevillagemag.com
 wrote:

 Johan-

 I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple on my Riv Road for several
 months.  It's a very lovely, very narrow crank set.  I got it (from a list
 member) with standard extractor and pedal threading.

 However, these old French cranks have very little distance between the
 big ring and the crank arm (that's how they have such low Q factor), which
 makes them difficult to shift properly.  I couldn't use any modern FD with 
 a
 sculpted outer plate or it would hit the crank arm.  I had decent luck with
 a vintage Suntour Cyclone double FD, shifted friction with Silver levers.
 But with that setup it was still very reluctant to shift from the small cog
 to the middle without going to the big ring first.

 A triple FD would have a sculpted inner plate to lift the chain better
 than the double FD, but I couldn't find any triple FDs, vintage or
 otherwise, that don't also have a scuplted outer plate.

 I recently swapped my Riv to drop bars and index shifting (8 speed Campy
 Ergos) and I couldn't get any FD to work with that Stronglight crank.  I
 ended up swapping the Campy Racing Triple crank back on, which shifts
 perfectly with the IRD Alpina FD.

 I'm just pointing out that low-Q cranks with little space between the
 big ring and the crank arm do have some complications.  Whether those
 complications become drawbacks depends on your priorities.  :)

 With drops and Ergo shifters, my Riv is at least 17% faster.

 And 47% of all statistics are fictional.  :)



 On Sep 23, 2014 7:20 PM, Johan Larsson seven@gmail.com wrote:

 If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts only
 from the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite narrow gap
 between the outer chain ring and crank arm. That way it's easy to run 
 it as
 a wide double (48/28 for example) with 110/74 or any choice of available
 chain rings and still having a narrow Q-factor.

 It's too bad Grant seems to have given up on striving to keep the
 Q-factor low. (?) As far as I can tell, you wouldn't lose anything with 
 such
 a crank, there would only be advantages. If you'd need a wider 
 ring-crank
 arm gap for some mtb style bike with wide tires and a wide cage front
 shifter you can add spacers and run it with three rings. Or one. Or 
 four. If
 you have an old road bike you can keep it lean and narrow and run it as 
 a
 double with almost an unlimited choice of chain ring combinations and a
 Q-factor in the 130 mm range, still using standard chain rings. This 
 winter
 I'm hoping to be able to make such a crank for myself, since I finally 
 have
 access to a lathe and having collected many old cranks I can modify and 
 take
 parts from.

 Johan Larsson,
 Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

One of the things I LOVE about threadless forks/headsets is their 
adjustability. Swapping stems and adding spacers is a quick job, and so 
much more pleasant than unwrapping bars (and inevitably scratching them up 
pulling them through a quill stem). Threadless stems come in a plethora of 
sizes and are easy and cheap to swap out when I need one. Much more so than 
Nitto quill stems. The trick is leaving the stem long enough to have the 
option of putting on spacers and moving the stem up.

My $.02

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:01:44 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 I'm talking about replacing the stock for on a LHT with the same exact 
 fork with a longer steerer, if aging or injury (or whatever) makes it 
 desirable to have higher bars. Upgrading to a more magical fork is another 
 matter. Robert Pirsig had a famous book about a guy who drove himself 
 insane trying to define quality, so I won't try to argue whether or not a 
 Surly fork is of the same quality as a Nitto stem. 

 Interesting point about disposability. To an extent, you are right. This 
 doesn't mean you're likely to wear out your LHT anytime soon, but let's say 
 you wreck it somehow. No problem, for $400ish, you can get another one just 
 like it tomorrow. For more precious frames, like your Longstaff or most 
 Rivs, replacement will be more costly in terms of time and money.

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:51:33 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 09/24/2014 04:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: 
  For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes 
  often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that 
  a new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a 
  Nitto quill stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, 
  which a lot of people do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an 
  issue for many years. 
  

 And a new fork of comparable quality to a Nitto stem will cost over six 
 times as much, about as much as a new frame of comparable (or even 
 superior) quality to the Surly frame, based on what we learned in the 
 discussion of the Lyon forks.  Basically, I interpret all this as saying 
 frames made for threadless forks should be considered disposable.  And 
 I'm sure there are plenty of production frames out there that 
 legitimately could be considered disposable tools. Certainly the LHT 
 qualifies.  But I don't consider a frame like my Longstaff a disposable 
 tool. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice


On 09/24/2014 05:01 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
I'm talking about replacing the stock for on a LHT with the same exact 
fork with a longer steerer, if aging or injury (or whatever) makes it 
desirable to have higher bars. Upgrading to a more magical fork is 
another matter. Robert Pirsig had a famous book about a guy who drove 
himself insane trying to define quality, so I won't try to argue 
whether or not a Surly fork is of the same quality as a Nitto stem.


But you certainly wouldn't argue that a Surly fork is the same quality 
as a Jeff Lyon fork, would you?




Interesting point about disposability. To an extent, you are right. 
This doesn't mean you're likely to wear out your LHT anytime soon, but 
let's say you wreck it somehow. No problem, for $400ish, you can get 
another one just like it tomorrow. For more precious frames, like your 
Longstaff or most Rivs, replacement will be more costly in terms of 
time and money.


If even possible.  In the case of the Longstaff, impossible, since he 
passed away in 2003.


On the other hand, there's a lot to be said for using a disposable tool 
on a mission that is apt to be potentially hazardous or at a minimum is 
likely to lead to rough handling, and touring can certainly be that.   
I'd rather use my Kogswell P/R for touring than my MAP Randonneur, even 
though Mitch Pryor does make a lovely add-on low-rider rack that mounts 
to the front bag support for the current generation of Randonneur 
Project bikes.








On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:51:33 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On 09/24/2014 04:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
 For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic.
Tastes
 often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point
out that
 a new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a
 Nitto quill stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning,
 which a lot of people do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an
 issue for many years.


And a new fork of comparable quality to a Nitto stem will cost
over six
times as much, about as much as a new frame of comparable (or even
superior) quality to the Surly frame, based on what we learned in the
discussion of the Lyon forks.  Basically, I interpret all this as
saying
frames made for threadless forks should be considered disposable.
 And
I'm sure there are plenty of production frames out there that
legitimately could be considered disposable tools. Certainly the LHT
qualifies.  But I don't consider a frame like my Longstaff a
disposable
tool.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

I saw those, but I need indexing...

If I was going for something super inexpensive I would probably do
grip shifters.

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 3:37 PM, Shoji Takahashi
shoji.takaha...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi Jim,
If you're not too particular on looks, the SunRace thumbies sold by Riv work
really well. Even includes housing and cables!
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh3.htm

Good luck on the new set up!
shoji

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:19:07 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

Anyone tried these?

http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_doubletriple_9_speed_thumb_shifters_silver-LD0110.php

The cost of setting up the Paul's thumbie adaptor and a new pair of
D/A 9 speed shifters is pushing $200. The Microshifts look like a
nice alternative.

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[RBW] Re: FS handlebars, stems - Nitto, Cinelli, Ritchey

2014-09-24 Thread Philip Williamson

UPDATE: 
What's left:

Nitto Technomic deluxe stem. 
100mm extension, 25.4 clamp, 115mm to max insertion line. 
Beautiful condition. Looks new.  
$55 shipped

Cinelli Giro D'Italia bars 64-42
42cm.
Lots scratches and tape glue/gunk. 
$15 shipped

Ritchey Force straight mountain bar. 
56cm, 6 degree bend. 
Black. Classic. Some scratches, dirt. Good rider bar
$15 shipped 

Unknown Sparrow-y / Jitensha-y bar 
~50cm c-c
Scratched. Interesting shape. Not classy.
$15 shipped

Thanks to everyone for helping me clear out the shed!
Next up... cranks and pedals? Tires? Rims? Who knows? 
 

On Saturday, September 20, 2014 9:58:14 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 I have known for a while that I only like flared drop bars (Midge, 
 Woodchipper, etc), so it makes no sense to hang on to these bars. 
 Here's a selection of drops, flats and priesty bars for sale. Shipping is 
 included, Paypal is preferred. 

 Nitto stem. 100mm extension, 25.4 clamp, 115mm to max insertion line. 
 Looks like a Technomic deluxe. Good condition. Never installed.  
 $55 shipped

 Nitto Grand Randonneur 135. 45cm
 Looks new. Pretty bar. 
 $40 shipped

 Nitto  Moustache bar. RM016N ~51cm c-c
 Good condition, some tape gunk
 $35 shipped

 Cinelli Giro D'Italia 64-42. 42cm.
 Some scratches, lots of tape glue/gunk. Easy clean-up.
 $25 shipped

 Ritchey Force bar and stem. 56cm, 6 degree bend. 
 Black. Classic. Steel stem, moderate rise, 125mm reach. Some scratches, 
 dirt. Good rider bar
 $55 shipped 

 Nitto Dove Bar prototype. ~50cm c-c
 Scratched up (looks like shifters being moved down the bar without the 
 benefit of tools). Funny story about this bar. 
 Does NOT accept bar end shifters. 
 $15 shipped

 Unknown Sparrow-y / Jitensha-y bar. ~50cm c-c
 Scratched. Interesting shape. Not classy.
 $15 shipped


 Thanks for looking, pictures on request.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



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[RBW] LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

Any feedback on 
these: http://www.rivbike.com/Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/lt007.htm or 
these: http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2

How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady, 
not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)? 

Battery life real good on them?

Any other options I am overlooking?

So many questions...

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Re: [RBW] Dyno light recommendation

2014-09-24 Thread Chris Chen

Light sensing is neat and all but these are LED lights, just turn them on
and relax; You'll be more visible too. Especially for the rear.

cc

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 1:28 PM, David Stein davecst...@gmail.com wrote:

 I finalized on the Luxos B. Thanks for the input, will report back on it!


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-- 
I want the kind of six pack you can't drink. -- Micah

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Re: [RBW] LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

2014-09-24 Thread campyonlyguy

I have PDW fenderbot on the Bleriot. Nice light with a nice reflector and great 
battery life, but nowhere near as bright as a Superflash. In a country setting, 
bright enough. In the city, I put on a bright blink like the Superflash as a 
backup to the Fenderbot.






--Eric N.
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.BlogSpot.com
@CampyOnlyGuy





From: cyclotour...@gmail.com
Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎September‎ ‎24‎, ‎2014 ‎2‎:‎58‎ ‎PM
To: 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch





Any feedback on these: 
http://www.rivbike.com/Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/lt007.htm or these: 
http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2



How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady, 
not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)? 




Battery life real good on them?




Any other options I am overlooking?




So many questions...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

2014-09-24 Thread Abcyclehank

Jim,
I have them on a recently purchased Surly Moonlander and love them.  Later my 
son borrowed the bike and that was the first thing he referenced upon returning 
the bike.  Take the leap I doubt you will be disappointed.  The shifting is 
precise and functions splendidly indexed.

Sincerely,
Ryan Hankinson

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[RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

2014-09-24 Thread lungimsam

Spanninga:
 
Good - bright and makes big light. Steady only. Reflector included in the 
design.
I don't like flashing lights. Why? Last night I saw a cyclist (while I was 
driving a car) with forward and rear flashing lights, and they made it hard 
to zero in on where he was. He could have been anywhere in a 6 foot area. 
Couldn't pinpoint placement of the bike as flashing lights had my vision 
disoriented. Very confusing. Just *light-black-light-black*, etc. as they 
flashed in the night.
 
Not bad, but could be better - had to bend the battery contacts upon 
installing new batteries to get it to work again. Works fine now. No biggie.

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[RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

2014-09-24 Thread dailyrandonneur

I have the Spanniga. It is somewhat basic, you're not getting a super deal 
at $15.

We have it on the tandem fender as a spare to back up the Secula Plus 
generator taillight (which is very bright) on our chainstay.  

The Spanniga is OK on dark roads, so-so in city riding. Switch is a little 
wonky. Our first unit wouldn't turn on unless the two halves -- 
battery-holding base, LED/reflector/cover upper -- were aligned just so; 
the second works ok. 

The reviews on the Fenderbot were middling and in the LBS it looked about 
as bright as the Spanniga, though sturdier. I bought a Radbot 1000 which is 
much brighter, but not intended for fender mounting.

Ed F.
Washington, DC 


On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 5:58:03 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 Any feedback on these: 
 http://www.rivbike.com/Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/lt007.htm or these: 
 http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2

 How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady, 
 not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)? 

 Battery life real good on them?

 Any other options I am overlooking?

 So many questions...


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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

Ryan,
Do you have any pics of your setup?

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Abcyclehank hankinso...@me.com wrote:
 Jim,
 I have them on a recently purchased Surly Moonlander and love them.  Later my 
 son borrowed the bike and that was the first thing he referenced upon 
 returning the bike.  Take the leap I doubt you will be disappointed.  The 
 shifting is precise and functions splendidly indexed.

 Sincerely,
 Ryan Hankinson

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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

2014-09-24 Thread Garth

Very Good Jim ! 

Yes .  . . I bought that theory too  . . .  and it's all preference .  It 
used to be that every crank was narrow and straight, I can't say that I 
particularly liked it either .  Even my '83 Stumpy back in the day had a 
narrow straight Sugino triple .  I like the way the XD's feel now :)  
Speaking of design, those stays clearly chowed how a narrow cranks can be 
in unison with wide tires .  Plus, you could use about any rings and any 
crank with it .   Brilliant ! 



 *Baseball is ninety percent mental and the other half is physical. 
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/y/yogiberra162048.html *
 *Yogi Berra 
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/y/yogiberra162048.html*

 So is cycling . .  .  . . 




On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 5:04:24 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 This post is addressed to nobody in particular, so don't take it 
 personal.  I
 Baseball is ninety percent mental and the other half is physical. 
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/y/yogiberra162048.html
 Yogi Berra 
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/y/yogiberra162048.html

 Read more at 
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/y/yogi_berra.html#S67Mo4PVRLlR5O8Z.99
 nstead, it's addressed towards group think that tends to 
 overtake any skepticism that might naturally occur towards new trends. 

 In many ways I am adherent to the old-school ways of doing things, but 
 if there's one area I really regret pursuing it's low-Q.  IT'S NOT FOR 
 EVERYONE AND IT'S NOT A PANACEA. 

 The hype about narrow Q-factor cost me a lot of cartilage in my knees. 

 Oh how many nights I laid in bed with throbbing knees.  If only I had 
 not listened.  What I really needed to do was go the opposite 
 direction.  I'm glad I finally came to realize that.  Otherwise, I 
 might not be riding at all, because it hurt so much. 

 Just think about it, next time you are bloviating about Q-factor. 

 Jim 
 The hype about narrow Q-factor cost me a lot of cartilage in my knees. 

 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 12:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 thil...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: 
  It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and 
 good 
  shifting and a wide range of gears. Personally, I like the direction 
 things 
  are going with the wide range 1x10 and 1x11 stuff. Single chainring 
  eliminates all these pesky front derailleur compatibility and 
 functionality 
  issues, and most chain suck issues. Rear derailleurs simply work more 
  reliably than front derailleurs, and 11-42 cassettes with a carefully 
  selected chainring size will get most of us up most of the grades that 
 we 
  ride. For example, for a hypothetical 700 mm wheel diameter, and a 36t 
  chainring, you get a range of 24-90 gear inches. I can sacrifice higher 
 and 
  lower gears to not have front derailleur problems anymore. 
  
  
  On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:31:01 AM UTC-5, ted wrote: 
  
  and whats the confidence interval ... 
  
  On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 6:54:30 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: 
  
  But that's only true 75% of the time... :) 
  
  On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin 
 tim@littlevillagemag.com 
  wrote: 
  
  Johan- 
  
  I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple on my Riv Road for several 
  months.  It's a very lovely, very narrow crank set.  I got it (from a 
 list 
  member) with standard extractor and pedal threading. 
  
  However, these old French cranks have very little distance between 
 the 
  big ring and the crank arm (that's how they have such low Q factor), 
 which 
  makes them difficult to shift properly.  I couldn't use any modern FD 
 with a 
  sculpted outer plate or it would hit the crank arm.  I had decent 
 luck with 
  a vintage Suntour Cyclone double FD, shifted friction with Silver 
 levers. 
  But with that setup it was still very reluctant to shift from the 
 small cog 
  to the middle without going to the big ring first. 
  
  A triple FD would have a sculpted inner plate to lift the chain 
 better 
  than the double FD, but I couldn't find any triple FDs, vintage or 
  otherwise, that don't also have a scuplted outer plate. 
  
  I recently swapped my Riv to drop bars and index shifting (8 speed 
 Campy 
  Ergos) and I couldn't get any FD to work with that Stronglight crank. 
  I 
  ended up swapping the Campy Racing Triple crank back on, which shifts 
  perfectly with the IRD Alpina FD. 
  
  I'm just pointing out that low-Q cranks with little space between the 
  big ring and the crank arm do have some complications.  Whether those 
  complications become drawbacks depends on your priorities.  :) 
  
  With drops and Ergo shifters, my Riv is at least 17% faster. 
  
  And 47% of all statistics are fictional.  :) 
  
  
  
  On Sep 23, 2014 7:20 PM, Johan Larsson seven@gmail.com 
 wrote: 
  
  If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts 
 only 
  from the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite 
 narrow gap

[RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

The reviews for the 'Bot aren't very exciting, but based on PDW's 
reputation, I was wondering if there was any supportive views. I have the 
Superflash now and it works fine, just trying to move to a fender mount 
seeing as I have full-time fenders. 

Are there any other options out there for fender mounted lights? I only run 
lights on constant, so wanting to compare in that mode.

Thanks!


On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:58:03 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 Any feedback on these: 
 http://www.rivbike.com/Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/lt007.htm or these: 
 http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2

 How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady, 
 not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)? 

 Battery life real good on them?

 Any other options I am overlooking?

 So many questions...


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[RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo.  It is my sole active 
illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's reflector, 
and an additional reflector on the rear rack.

The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some headlights 
I've used, but more distributed.

It's best on dark roads, as others have observed.  But that's true for any 
powered light.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

2014-09-24 Thread Joe Bernard

I always purchase lifetime bikes. Problem is, I always sell them for 
different lifetime bikes ;)

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:53:04 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 Leaving the steerer long isn't even a trick... Simply do nothing, and it 
 magically stays long!

 I have and love bikes with quill stems and with threadless stems. I've had 
 my Bontrager (threadless) for almost 14 years, so it's looking like a Buy 
 It For Life bike. And the fork may well be almost as irreplaceable as 
 Steve's Longstaff fork. 

 Stem adjustment is something I almost never do on most of my bikes. My 
 quill bikes, never, my newer threadless bike every few months as I dial 
 different elements. Bearing preload seems easy, once you learn to use your 
 body weight, and which thing (stem or star nut) to tighten first. Maybe I'm 
 missing some secret difficulty?

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

'til death do us partor some other bike catches my eye

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:49:33 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I always purchase lifetime bikes. Problem is, I always sell them for 
 different lifetime bikes ;)

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:53:04 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 Leaving the steerer long isn't even a trick... Simply do nothing, and it 
 magically stays long!

 I have and love bikes with quill stems and with threadless stems. I've 
 had my Bontrager (threadless) for almost 14 years, so it's looking like a 
 Buy It For Life bike. And the fork may well be almost as irreplaceable as 
 Steve's Longstaff fork. 

 Stem adjustment is something I almost never do on most of my bikes. My 
 quill bikes, never, my newer threadless bike every few months as I dial 
 different elements. Bearing preload seems easy, once you learn to use your 
 body weight, and which thing (stem or star nut) to tighten first. Maybe I'm 
 missing some secret difficulty?

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

2014-09-24 Thread Eric Norris

Every time I see an email in this thread, I think that Microsoft has started 
making bicycle parts.

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

 On Sep 24, 2014, at 3:51 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Ryan,
 Do you have any pics of your setup?
 
 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Abcyclehank hankinso...@me.com wrote:
 Jim,
 I have them on a recently purchased Surly Moonlander and love them.  Later 
 my son borrowed the bike and that was the first thing he referenced upon 
 returning the bike.  Take the leap I doubt you will be disappointed.  The 
 shifting is precise and functions splendidly indexed.
 
 Sincerely,
 Ryan Hankinson
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

I was looking at the dynamo powered one, but not a fan of the wiring across
the bike. The AAA rears typically last a while w/ rechargeable, so not
worried about that, just the brightness.
Thanks!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
marchantshap...@gmail.com wrote:

 I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo.  It is my sole
 active illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's
 reflector, and an additional reflector on the rear rack.

 The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some
 headlights I've used, but more distributed.

 It's best on dark roads, as others have observed.  But that's true for any
 powered light.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

I used to buy bikes for my lifetime, until I realized that each and every 
bike I've had has ridden differently, and I've *liked* the difference.  Two 
years ago I lost a Trek 560 that I absolutely *loved.  *I was going to get 
a custom-built replacement, but that ultimately proved unworkable.  
Consequently, I bought a Velo Orange Randonneur.  I like it a lot.  I also 
liked my Kogswell D58--threadless stem and all.  I just didn't need it 
anymore.

This is all by way of saying that variety is a spice of life.

When my next bike gets shot out from under me--if--I will not worry about a 
perfect replacement.  Because whatever I find will be as good as, if not 
better, than the old bike.

Lifetime, schmifetime.  They're all tools, they're all bikes, and they're 
all meant to be ridden into the ground.  If you want one with fancy paint, 
that's your deal, and I can completely understand.

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 7:54:32 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 'til death do us partor some other bike catches my eye

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:49:33 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I always purchase lifetime bikes. Problem is, I always sell them for 
 different lifetime bikes ;)

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:53:04 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson 
 wrote:

 Leaving the steerer long isn't even a trick... Simply do nothing, and it 
 magically stays long!

 I have and love bikes with quill stems and with threadless stems. I've 
 had my Bontrager (threadless) for almost 14 years, so it's looking like a 
 Buy It For Life bike. And the fork may well be almost as irreplaceable as 
 Steve's Longstaff fork. 

 Stem adjustment is something I almost never do on most of my bikes. My 
 quill bikes, never, my newer threadless bike every few months as I dial 
 different elements. Bearing preload seems easy, once you learn to use your 
 body weight, and which thing (stem or star nut) to tighten first. Maybe I'm 
 missing some secret difficulty?

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com



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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

2014-09-24 Thread Eric Platt

Much like guitars, never found anything close to a lifetime bike.  In a
related matter, a friend of mine has been through more custom guitars and
custom bikes than I can count.  At least 4 custom bikes I know of.  His
present passion? Long Haul Trucker with 26 wheels.

I have no problem getting the bars high enough on my bikes with threadless
stems.  Now, the 6 or so above the saddle I occasionally put the bars on
my Hillborne?  Nope.  But two or three inches above, not a problem.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 6:54 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 'til death do us partor some other bike catches my eye


 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:49:33 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I always purchase lifetime bikes. Problem is, I always sell them for
 different lifetime bikes ;)

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:53:04 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson
 wrote:

 Leaving the steerer long isn't even a trick... Simply do nothing, and it
 magically stays long!

 I have and love bikes with quill stems and with threadless stems. I've
 had my Bontrager (threadless) for almost 14 years, so it's looking like a
 Buy It For Life bike. And the fork may well be almost as irreplaceable as
 Steve's Longstaff fork.

 Stem adjustment is something I almost never do on most of my bikes. My
 quill bikes, never, my newer threadless bike every few months as I dial
 different elements. Bearing preload seems easy, once you learn to use your
 body weight, and which thing (stem or star nut) to tighten first. Maybe I'm
 missing some secret difficulty?

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice


On 09/24/2014 09:00 PM, Eric Platt wrote:

Much like guitars, never found anything close to a lifetime bike.


Lots of people figured the 54-year-old Gibson Les Paul electric guitar 
would fetch more than its $20,000 to $30,000 pre-auction estimate, but 
no one knew how much more.


The answer: a lot. Two Saturdays ago, *Gil Southworth Jr.* paid 
$140,000 for the guitar I wrote about 
http://www.washingtonpost.com/local/one-careful-owner-the-story-of-a-desirable-vintage-guitar-about-to-be-auctioned/2014/09/08/7a57b312-3778-11e4-9c9f-ebb47272e40e_story.html 
recently. Add in the premium paid toQuinn’s Auction Galleries 
http://www.quinnsauction.com/in Falls Church and the price tag came to 
$165,200. Why, with that money, Gil could have bought 1,652 brand-new 
$100 ukuleles (a sobering thought)


Sure as hell sounds like a lifetime guitar to me.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

The Edelux lights use optics from BM with the II version having optics 
like the new Cyo lights and the original (not II) being like the previous 
version of the Cyo (ie IQ not IQ2). Since the reflectors and LEDs are the 
same, the beams are too.
Choosing between the two brands is about price and features besides the 
primary beam. Want a metal housing and a glass front lens, buy the Edelux. 
Want daytime running lights, buy BM. Want to save money, buy BM. Want a 
switch for on/senso/off buy the Edelux. .

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 11:03:11 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:

 I've used the Edeluxe and the Cyo--all of my dyno-powered bikes now have 
 various flavors of the Cyo. I haven't used the Edeluxe II, but I found the 
 beam pattern on the Cyo lights to be better than the original Edeluxe ... 
 at a lower cost. 

 I'm currently using one of the newer Cyo lights on my Blériot. I got the 
 slightly upgraded model that has a daytime running light and a 
 sensor-controlled full headlight. I like the light, and my only complaint 
 is that there's no way during the daytime to force the full headlight to 
 come on. During the day, it's either the daytime light or nothing. If I 
 could redesign the light, I would eliminate the  sensor function and have 
 three settings: Off/Daytime/Full 

 --Eric N 
 www.CampyOnly.com 
 CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com 
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy 

  On Sep 24, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Jim Bronson jim.b...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote: 
  
  Peter White carries the Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo which is $35 more 
  expensive than the Eyc but about $80 less than the Edluxe II.  I have 
  one of these IQ Premium Cyo Senso lights that I bought used off of 
  this list and I love, love, love it.  It's 80lux and has the same 
  optics as the Luxos and Edluxe II lights. 
  
  I highly recommend this light any chance I get due to the value for 
  the $.  I think it's just as good as the Edluxe II. 
  
  On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Jayme Frye jayme...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote: 
  +1 on the BM lights already mentioned. I run the Luxos U on my 
  camping/commuting bike for the USB charging and the tiny but super 
 bright 
  Eyc on my go fast gravel race bike. Both lights perform fabulously. 
  Cheers 
  
  Jayme 
  
  
  On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:09:21 PM UTC-5, DS wrote: 
  
  Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to 
 go 
  with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some 
 feedback 
  from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos 
 B that 
  Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the 
 Eyc is 
  cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is 
 starting 
  to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike out 
 in 
  the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently 
 attached 
  and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of city 
  streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and 
  occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think 
 oakland 
  hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding. 
  
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[RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

2014-09-24 Thread 'Tony McG' via RBW Owners Bunch

Last Summer I put together a beautiful LHT that I haven't ridden since I 
bought my Atlantis.   The only experience I have with the Sam is a quick 
ride around the block in Walnut Creek a few years ago; I wish I had taken 
it for a longer ride.  The double top tube does not bother me, but I prefer 
cantilever or v-brakes over the caliper brakes offered on the new Sams.

Jim has a good point regarding the threadless vs threaded fork, because 
there are so many more handle bar options available.  I am still trying to 
figure out how to adjust the headset preload on my Atlantis.


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Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

Either way.  I don't know how the battery model compares.  But if you have 
fenders, wiring across the bike is surprisingly easy; I held out for a long 
time, but I'm glad I ultimately went that way.  YMMV.

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 8:44:28 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 I was looking at the dynamo powered one, but not a fan of the wiring 
 across the bike. The AAA rears typically last a while w/ rechargeable, so 
 not worried about that, just the brightness.
 Thanks! 

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 marchan...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo.  It is my sole 
 active illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's 
 reflector, and an additional reflector on the rear rack.

 The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some 
 headlights I've used, but more distributed.

 It's best on dark roads, as others have observed.  But that's true for 
 any powered light.

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Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

I've had a wired rear light before, and never really like the wire draped
across the bike. I suppose I could deal with it (and should!) but hoping
for a battery option! :-)

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 7:38 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
marchantshap...@gmail.com wrote:

 Either way.  I don't know how the battery model compares.  But if you have
 fenders, wiring across the bike is surprisingly easy; I held out for a long
 time, but I'm glad I ultimately went that way.  YMMV.

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 8:44:28 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 I was looking at the dynamo powered one, but not a fan of the wiring
 across the bike. The AAA rears typically last a while w/ rechargeable, so
 not worried about that, just the brightness.
 Thanks!

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 marchan...@gmail.com wrote:

 I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo.  It is my sole
 active illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's
 reflector, and an additional reflector on the rear rack.

 The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some
 headlights I've used, but more distributed.

 It's best on dark roads, as others have observed.  But that's true for
 any powered light.

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Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

I have a Spanninga Pixio Xba I am planning to put on my SimpleOne's fender. 
I also have a PDW Radbot 1k and a dyno BM TopLight Line.
The Radbot 1K is very bright on axis, but is a single small spot of 
brightness. The Pixio is fairly bright though not as bright as the Radbot, 
and also seems to be pretty much a dot when viewed from any distance. I 
like the way the linetec creates a larger illuminated area. I think the 
reflector portion of the Radbot is larger than the one on the Pixio, and 
the TopLight's is even larger.

If you have a place to mount it, you might consider the battery version of 
the TopLight (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/lt009.htm)

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 5:44:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 I was looking at the dynamo powered one, but not a fan of the wiring 
 across the bike. The AAA rears typically last a while w/ rechargeable, so 
 not worried about that, just the brightness.
 Thanks! 

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 marchan...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo.  It is my sole 
 active illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's 
 reflector, and an additional reflector on the rear rack.

 The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some 
 headlights I've used, but more distributed.

 It's best on dark roads, as others have observed.  But that's true for 
 any powered light.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

Eric,

That's the version I have too.  For the life of me I can't figure out
the difference between the S and T settings on the dial.  Of
course O is for Off but anyway.  Minor quibble :)  This light is
great and I used it again tonight on a very pleasant 42 mile ride,
mostly after dark.  I have it aimed fairly high and it lights up a
huge section of road.

I would have a hard time justifying spending more money on a light
than this one.  Granted the Edluxe case is very attractively designed,
and the Luxos U has the USB charging port but they're not really
better lights.

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 1:02 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 I've used the Edeluxe and the Cyo--all of my dyno-powered bikes now have 
 various flavors of the Cyo. I haven't used the Edeluxe II, but I found the 
 beam pattern on the Cyo lights to be better than the original Edeluxe ... at 
 a lower cost.

 I'm currently using one of the newer Cyo lights on my Blériot. I got the 
 slightly upgraded model that has a daytime running light and a 
 sensor-controlled full headlight. I like the light, and my only complaint is 
 that there's no way during the daytime to force the full headlight to come 
 on. During the day, it's either the daytime light or nothing. If I could 
 redesign the light, I would eliminate the  sensor function and have three 
 settings: Off/Daytime/Full

 --Eric N
 www.CampyOnly.com
 CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

 On Sep 24, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Peter White carries the Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo which is $35 more
 expensive than the Eyc but about $80 less than the Edluxe II.  I have
 one of these IQ Premium Cyo Senso lights that I bought used off of
 this list and I love, love, love it.  It's 80lux and has the same
 optics as the Luxos and Edluxe II lights.

 I highly recommend this light any chance I get due to the value for
 the $.  I think it's just as good as the Edluxe II.

 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Jayme Frye jayme.f...@gmail.com wrote:
 +1 on the BM lights already mentioned. I run the Luxos U on my
 camping/commuting bike for the USB charging and the tiny but super bright
 Eyc on my go fast gravel race bike. Both lights perform fabulously.
 Cheers

 Jayme


 On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:09:21 PM UTC-5, DS wrote:

 Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to go
 with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some feedback
 from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos B 
 that
 Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the Eyc 
 is
 cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is starting
 to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike out in
 the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently attached
 and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of city
 streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and
 occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think oakland
 hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Small Tan Saddlesack, B67 brown saddle, Ibex Jacket

2014-09-24 Thread DS

Brooks and Ibex are gone, still have (price drops):

   - *Small Tan Saddlesack: $90 local. $100 shipped*. A little bit of tire 
   rub on the bottom but otherwise in great condition and only used for maybe 
   3 rides or so. 
   - *26 build kit Velocity wheelset 36: $300 local, $330 shipped. *Less 
   than 200 miles, 4 months old. Bought as 2nd 'commuter; wheelset for 
   hunqapillar build. Sticking with the primary set and knobbies for a 
   permanent mtn bike setup.

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Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot

I don't have a rear rack, so the Toplight wouldn't work out. Thanks though!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 8:33 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:

 I have a Spanninga Pixio Xba I am planning to put on my SimpleOne's
 fender. I also have a PDW Radbot 1k and a dyno BM TopLight Line.
 The Radbot 1K is very bright on axis, but is a single small spot of
 brightness. The Pixio is fairly bright though not as bright as the Radbot,
 and also seems to be pretty much a dot when viewed from any distance. I
 like the way the linetec creates a larger illuminated area. I think the
 reflector portion of the Radbot is larger than the one on the Pixio, and
 the TopLight's is even larger.

 If you have a place to mount it, you might consider the battery version of
 the TopLight (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/lt009.htm)

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 5:44:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 I was looking at the dynamo powered one, but not a fan of the wiring
 across the bike. The AAA rears typically last a while w/ rechargeable, so
 not worried about that, just the brightness.
 Thanks!

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




 On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 marchan...@gmail.com wrote:

 I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo.  It is my sole
 active illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's
 reflector, and an additional reflector on the rear rack.

 The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some
 headlights I've used, but more distributed.

 It's best on dark roads, as others have observed.  But that's true for
 any powered light.

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Re: [RBW] Re: For Sale: Schwalbe, MKS, Abus

Payment pending on the pedals. Tires still FS. Marathon Supremes are some
great tires. If 32m is all your frame will fit, these are hard to beat! I'd
keep 'em, but have three sets waiting to mount in that size already!

Price drop: $50 gets them to your door (presuming paypal friend payment)!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 10:56 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:

 The Schoolhouse says the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU4pyiB-kq0


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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

the Microsoft shifters work great.  every once in a while, though, they stop 
shifting completely.  all you have to do is remove and reinstall them and they 
start working again.  no big deal.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

I find it weird how you still have to use two fingers on your left hand,
and one on your right to get it going though.

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:28 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 the Microsoft shifters work great.  every once in a while, though, they
 stop shifting completely.  all you have to do is remove and reinstall them
 and they start working again.  no big deal.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

Do they turn blue when they have a fatal error?

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 11:28 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 the Microsoft shifters work great.  every once in a while, though, they stop 
 shifting completely.  all you have to do is remove and reinstall them and 
 they start working again.  no big deal.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

So of course you should do as you like and go threadless ever and always. I 
see absolutely no reason why you shouldn't.
But some of the rest of us find that the bars we want work with quill 
stems, and find the range of quill stems available perfectly adequate. 
Though threadless has dominated the market for what 15 years I don't think 
the last 5 or 10 have seen dramatic reductions in the availability of quill 
stems etc. I believe your implied prediction of their imminent demise is 
premature, and see no need to shun them for fear of being locked into 
something unobtainable.
Folks explaining how you can adjust bar height on threadless setups, and 
how its really easy, remind me of when I told people that gluing tubulars 
was simple. Easy is in the eye of the doer, and (aside from the advantages 
of removable face plates) I can't believe dealing with threadless is as 
easy as the quill system is. I think spacers above the stem on a threadless 
setup looks bad. You say I can buy a new fork if I want to raise my bars an 
inch? Yea, well you go ahead with that plan but I don't think I will.


On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:40:43 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 Of course, if someone is devoted to quill stems, then I would expect that 
 person to be devoted to traditional handlebar designs, to the exclusion 
 of newer designs. I personally think the Jones Loop bar is the best 
 all-around bar for my riding. I can't do that with a quill stem. There are 
 a lot more 31.8 bars than there are 26.0 bars nowadays. I prefer to have 
 the option rather than be locked in to a standard that appears to be dying, 
 or at least dwindling.

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:36:36 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes 
 often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that a 
 new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a Nitto quill 
 stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, which a lot of people 
 do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an issue for many years.

 I would strongly suggest NOT threading a threadless fork. It seems very 
 unsafe to me

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:22:03 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 09/24/2014 01:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
  
 I always thought the Cross-check was probably more comparable to the 
 Sam, but the LHT isn't far off. All three are smartly designed and 
 versatile. All three can be lifetime bikes, if you want them to be. I've 
 extensively ridden a Disc Trucker, Cross-check, Atlantis, Romulus, and a 
 few test miles on a Sam. There isn't anything magical about the intrinsic 
 ride quality of the Sam compared to the two Surly models I mentioned, but 
 it does have an extra measure of cosmetic flair, which may or may not be 
 worth the extra cost and wait, depending on your point of view. Despite the 
 lower price of the Surly, I don't believe there's any sacrifice of 
 quality, which is sometimes implied in any Surly vs Riv discussion. 
 Surly's quality control is the best of any company I've dealt with - they 
 almost never make mistakes.

 Here are a few technical details to consider. The Riv uses a 1 quill 
 stem, which has some advantage for quickly raising and lowering the bar, 
 but the quill stems currently available don't have a 31.8 clamp option. 
 Since 25.4/26.0 handlebars are getting fewer everyday, and 31.8 is 
 effectively standard now, you'll be opting out of some great handlebar 
 options with a standard quill stem (there are workarounds to solve this 
 problem, but it's better to not have the problem in the first place, IMO). 
 The Surly frames come with a threadless steerer, which makes switching to 
 different bars much easier/cheaper. In general, threaded steerers and quill 
 stems are regarded as outdated in the bicycle industry, and few 
 manufacturers are supporting that design anymore. That makes the Surly 
 somewhat more future-proof in regard to headsets, stems, and handlebars. 
 I see the quill stems as a fairly major inconvenience, but, of course, the 
 quill stems have an aesthetic effect that some people prefer, and I can't 
 argue that. A second consideration is how you plan to accessorize the bike. 
 Rivs tend to have rack braze-ons designed around the Nitto racks that they 
 sell, while Surly frames have braze-ons designed around more universal rack 
 designs. The rack thing shouldn't be a deal-breaker, because many racks 
 will fit on the back of a Riv, but it does get difficult if you want, say, 
 a Tubus low-rider rack on the fork of a Riv.

  
 In my personal experience, the biggest issue regarding a lifetime 
 bicycle is the ability to adjust your position to physiological changes 
 that occur with time.  Most significant of these, certainly for me and 
 probably for most, has been the need to raise the handlebar position.  In 
 my 30s, I had a 5 drop.  In my

Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

2014-09-24 Thread Philip Williamson

Sounds more like an investment to me.

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice

haha Andrew great comments

I thought my Paul Taylor custom was going to be a lifetime bike, it's
very fast but it's punishing and you can not get anyting over 23mm
under the front fork.  The other problem is that it TT is 66mm C-C and
it's threadless so even with the itty bittiest stem is more than I
want.  And it's hard to get any up angle when you're using a tiny
threadless stem.  A quill with 50mm extension would have been so much
better.  So I got the thing repainted, err powdercoated, and now I'm
selling it.

Then there's the Eisentraut, I thought it would be a piece of history
that I would keep for a lifetime.  Now, I'm kind of wondering why I
have it, ifn I'm not going to build it up and ride it.  The problem is
that it's a touring frame, with none of the modern accoutrements for
touring like eyelets for racks and so forth.

But anyway :)

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 7:58 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
marchantshap...@gmail.com wrote:
 I used to buy bikes for my lifetime, until I realized that each and every
 bike I've had has ridden differently, and I've liked the difference.  Two
 years ago I lost a Trek 560 that I absolutely loved.  I was going to get a
 custom-built replacement, but that ultimately proved unworkable.
 Consequently, I bought a Velo Orange Randonneur.  I like it a lot.  I also
 liked my Kogswell D58--threadless stem and all.  I just didn't need it
 anymore.

 This is all by way of saying that variety is a spice of life.

 When my next bike gets shot out from under me--if--I will not worry about a
 perfect replacement.  Because whatever I find will be as good as, if not
 better, than the old bike.

 Lifetime, schmifetime.  They're all tools, they're all bikes, and they're
 all meant to be ridden into the ground.  If you want one with fancy paint,
 that's your deal, and I can completely understand.


 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 7:54:32 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 'til death do us partor some other bike catches my eye

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:49:33 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I always purchase lifetime bikes. Problem is, I always sell them for
 different lifetime bikes ;)

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:53:04 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson
 wrote:

 Leaving the steerer long isn't even a trick... Simply do nothing, and it
 magically stays long!

 I have and love bikes with quill stems and with threadless stems. I've
 had my Bontrager (threadless) for almost 14 years, so it's looking like a
 Buy It For Life bike. And the fork may well be almost as irreplaceable as
 Steve's Longstaff fork.

 Stem adjustment is something I almost never do on most of my bikes. My
 quill bikes, never, my newer threadless bike every few months as I dial
 different elements. Bearing preload seems easy, once you learn to use your
 body weight, and which thing (stem or star nut) to tighten first. Maybe I'm
 missing some secret difficulty?

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

2014-09-24 Thread justinaugust

There's also some IRD indexed thumbies. 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089CHCTI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile


-J

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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?