[RBW] How to measure Noodles?

[Joe Bernard]

C-to-C in the middle of the curve. The Noodle page at Rivbike shows a diagram 
of it. 

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[RBW] How to measure Noodles?

[Rod Holland]

I guess this falls under the heading of 1st World Problems, but I've got 
several Nitto Noodles in the house, and have lost track of how some are 
sized. Can you suggest a specific measurement I can take that will give me 
the stated width of the bar? Drops, center-to-center? Or... ?

Thanks,

rod

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[RBW] Re: Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[Kiley Demond]

Tag, you're it.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 7:10:05 PM UTC-7, sameness wrote:
>
> Agreed. I sent you a PM but you know how those go. I might be interested 
> as-is minus the wheels.
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 7:03:54 PM UTC-7, Ian A wrote:
>>
>> If in your shoes, I might be inclined to offer on this list for sale as 
>> F/F/HS only and/or as a mostly complete bike, with/without wheels etc.
>>
>> This approach has been used successfully by several people selling bikes 
>> on the list and it opens the options for people and potentially attracts a 
>> broader base of buyers.
>>
>> I would imagine a 60cm Cheviut would sell fairly easily.
>>
>> IanA
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[Kiley Demond]

Thank you for the suggestion. Since I don't have the time or money to 
invest in filling in the component gaps, I have decided to forego the idea 
of selling a complete bike. I also don't want someone depending on my 
mechanicking. The components I curated over the last two years are the 
result of hours of research and a lot of money, so I am sure they will end 
up on my next bike. It is the result of being 5'10" with a PBH of 91.5" 
with the net being a cockpit with easily reachable handlebars despite a 
saddle set way back and a long pedal stroke. Many of the components are the 
third or fourth iteration so those are staying! I also now have the luxury 
of collecting the last few components I wanted over time when bargains 
surface. It will be fun to build up a bike as soon as the frame arrives 
instead of thinking about what to buy! 

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 5:39:10 PM UTC-7, Sean McRobert wrote:
>
> I'd say buy a used seat post, flat pedals and a cheap saddle and sell it 
> as a complete bike.  You'll get a broader audience and the rest of your 
> keeper components can be found again.  Maybe the next Riv you find will be 
> nicely equipped and you wont need to build it up.   Decide how much you 
> need to get to be satisfied and post it for sale here first. It doesn't 
> cost a thing and anyone here that fits that bike would be happy to own it 
> for the right price.  Personally, I get in the same amount of trouble 
> whether I buy another frame or a complete bike, so I'd prefer to be able to 
> ride it a while before I start spending time wrenching on it and packages 
> of bike parts start showing up at the door.  Good luck whatever you decide.
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo touch-up paint

[Don Compton]

If you're lucky to find a color match, fingernail polish works really well.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 7:27:57 PM UTC-7, Eric Peterson wrote:
>
> Any recommendations for touch-up paint for the off-white paint on 
> Rivendell Roadeo?
>
> Thanks,
> Eric Peterson
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Dang, you took the words right outta my mouth, bro! I was just getting 
ready to say exactly this. How weird is that?!!

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 8:31:34 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:If Grant/Riv 
catered to the constantly changing whim of every customer .he would 
please no more/no less than as-is today, but Grant I suspect, would never 
be pleased, so likely no more Rivendell at all.   Funny, but the present 
tense, is the only "time" there is. Try speaking as was or will be  and 
notice the present-tense/presence is inescapable. Now is now, no  matter 
what a clock or calendar of Sun may be assumed/presumed as meaning. That 
"meaning" under the light of Truth, cannnot be found, it has none. Now , 
present tense, simply is, infinitum .  The point of this is is there is no 
such thing as new or old anything, A present that is not-present, never 
was, never will be. The One present is the only One present 😀 So in 
regards to "bike technology/parts" and "age/availability" . I need not 
say more.  No, all the so-assumed "logic" in the world cannot figure this 
utter simplicity out, which is wonderfully a-maze-ing 😀   Smile !

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Joe Bernard]

We've been doing threadless for 25 years?! Holy crap I'm old. 

Btw, the adjuster on threadless is threaded. Clipless pedals have clips. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Grant Petersen]

A century of threaded headsets and 25 years of threadless suggest they both
work fine. The rest is preference and defense.

On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 2:05 PM, Virgil Staphbeard 
wrote:

> Also, the addition of a decaleur or cable hanger in the stack adds to the
> loosening potential ,provided they don't have their own locking potential
> (i.e. Paul Funky Monkey or Mark Guglielmana decaleur). The locknut fails
> to do its job if there is potentially rotating part introduced between
> them.
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:05:06 AM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>
>> The "secret" to properly snugging a threaded headset is to use two
>> wrenches (in the case of a non-Rinko style). The spanner kind goes on the
>> cup flats, and it's really helpful to use the Stein-type (now also made by
>> Park) that's chunky and grabs around about 230 degrees and cannot slip. You
>> lightly overtighten the cup, then countersqueeze the keyed washer with
>> opposing forces on both wrenches. Let me say that if I didn't know exactly
>> what all these words meant, it would seem like a hassle, but it is super
>> easy. Like anything on a bike or in life, it takes a little practice to
>> develop the skill, but so does every mechanical adjustment on your bike.
>> Once you have it down, it takes roughly 20 seconds, maximum. The actually
>> tightening, 4-5 seconds.
>> The PROBLEM is that -- kind of like learning to patch inner tubes or
>> remove and reinstall the rear wheel when all you ride is Schwalbe tires --
>> there's not a lot of opportunity to learn.
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 5:59 AM, hugh flynn  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 2:37 PM masmojo  wrote:
>>>

 ...
 Riv, people don't have problems with headsets coming loose!? Wow, I
 wonder what their secret is, I've never owned a bike with a quill stem that
 didn't  eventually need to be tightened. (& I've tried many techniques to
 tighten them so they don't come loose). On the other hand I've never had a
 threadless come loose.
>>>
>>>
>>> Doubt it's Riv specific but in 40+ years and many 1,000's of miles of
>>> cycling with both threadless and threaded headsets, I've never had a
>>> problem with either and have yet to perform a field adjustment either on or
>>> off road.
>>>
>>> Hugh "not a big problem for me" Flynn
>>> Newburyport, MA
>>>
 --
>>> Hugh Flynn
>>> Newburyport, MA
>>>
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>>
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[RBW] Roadeo touch-up paint

[Eric Peterson]

Any recommendations for touch-up paint for the off-white paint on Rivendell
Roadeo?

Thanks,
Eric Peterson

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[RBW] Re: Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[sameness]

Agreed. I sent you a PM but you know how those go. I might be interested 
as-is minus the wheels.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 7:03:54 PM UTC-7, Ian A wrote:
>
> If in your shoes, I might be inclined to offer on this list for sale as 
> F/F/HS only and/or as a mostly complete bike, with/without wheels etc.
>
> This approach has been used successfully by several people selling bikes 
> on the list and it opens the options for people and potentially attracts a 
> broader base of buyers.
>
> I would imagine a 60cm Cheviut would sell fairly easily.
>
> IanA
>
>

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[RBW] Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[Ian A]

If in your shoes, I might be inclined to offer on this list for sale as F/F/HS 
only and/or as a mostly complete bike, with/without wheels etc.

This approach has been used successfully by several people selling bikes on the 
list and it opens the options for people and potentially attracts a broader 
base of buyers.

I would imagine a 60cm Cheviut would sell fairly easily.

IanA

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Steve, I am 62 years old and have been riding for thirty years, using my 
Atlantis for daily transportation since 1999. I have a good understanding of 
what I need in a bike. My entire bike packing load is less than fifteen pounds. 
It has to be, because I tour up in the Oregon Cascades on single track and 
double track, once I climb the twenty miles and a climb few thousand feet to 
get there.  Right now, I am having a hard time packing my bike for a three day 
tour, because it’s so damn hot and the wild land fire smoke can roll in, with a 
change in the wind. Anywhoo, yes the weight difference is important. Only by 
sweating over every gram, and always choosing the lighter way, have I been able 
to get my load light. It took twenty years of refining my touring load. When I 
first started, I had a forty to fifty pounds worth of crap on my bike and 
climbing was not fun, and kept me on paved roads. I make all my own bike 
packing bags because I enjoy trying to design something new, which is really 
hard in the cycling world. 
I live with the Atlantis’s weight, because the bike is perfect for my severely 
battered body (12 surgeries, knees, back, wrists, elbow).  It fits.  Like an 
old pair of broken in boots. I have two carbon bikes, a S-works Crux (insanely 
light and quite absorbent for a rigid) and an Ibis Mojo 3 with 2.5” tires. I 
could bikepack on either one, but I never have. They have no soul, and they 
would hamper my connection with Nature. Sounds weird, but I guess a comparison 
would be going for a hike in moccasins versus bright yellow, foam hiking shoes 
with pink lightening bolts on the side.  There is a better connection to the 
earth with the moccasins. Same with steel frames. For the Earth, of the Earth 
and it will only oxidize into the dirt. Since I am a Dirt Dancer, it feels 
proper... 
Rivendell, in name, attitude and products is all about being a nature bike deep 
down, and Dammit, I want a fully lugged plus bike named after something that 
lives in the woods. (“Mr. Natural”, hmmm... a Mr. Crumb co branded bike?)
Back to packing my bike. I can’t decide whether or not to carry my Swiss 
Army knife now. 
Treehugger
Clayton
DirtDance 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Doug Hansford]

I begrudgingly agree. The Bosco bars put loads of torque on the stem connection 
 to the point that I would worry about using them with a quill stem on single 
track. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2018, at 9:10 PM, Ryan Merrill  wrote:
> 
> Yeah, I personally think a quill stem is a bad idea for an MTB.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan Merrill]

Yeah, I personally think a quill stem is a bad idea for an MTB.

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[iamkeith]

Drw, I hear you and I've been fighting the urge to be part of keeping this 
thread and the speculation alive, but I can't seem to help myself.  I think the 
rim issue is now resolved by grant's "2.8, not 3.0" comment.  The Cliffhanger 
might not be optimum, but it would certainly work.  And if or when it went 
away, somebody else would step up and make a replacement.  (I've learned this 
lesson the hard way, through years of needless hoarding instinct based on 
similar worries.)

I'm not in the disc camp in any way shape or form, but I'm now actually more 
perplexed by the "presumably V-brakes" comment.  Cantis are easy to comprehend, 
but V-brakes would need some awfully long arms to clear a tire that big.  Don't 
make me regret bringing this up though..

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[RBW] Re: Cushy Cotton Bar Tape

[jandrews]

Thanks for the heads up on the Serfas.  



On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 5:45:49 PM UTC-4, Drw wrote:
>
> I bought some but didn’t install. It doesn’t feel as cushy or cottony as 
> I’d hoped. I really like newbaums but the Serfas woven tape is a new 
> favorite. You can definitely wrap noodles with one package of the serfas 
> tape, and it’s about 25$

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[iamkeith]

( not that a dropper post would be a viable option on this if it indeed goes 
mixte, so you're safe.  I was really just wondering what you meant.)

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Drw]

For me, this comes down to rim availability. If a case can be made for a long 
term available rim brake rim for 2.8in tires, I’ll probably bite and replace 
the Toyo Atlantis that lives up near Yosemite. I don’t really need or care 
about disc brakes in the dryness of CA, but I don’t want to be unable to buy a 
decent wheel set in 10 years for a bike either. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Belopsky]

I mean, I would like to see this when you receive it.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 8:19:26 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> As long as you don't go with a 31.6 seat tube to run a real dropper post. 
> Then I'll feel dumb for ordering my new Fitz (rigid fork, rim brakes, 60mm 
> tires, dropper post). 
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>
> On Monday, July 23, 2018 at 2:15:18 PM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>
>> We're thinking of stuff about price. To be CLEM-like would mean all TIG, 
>> and that's--obviously--easier and still strong and all, but the first run 
>> will be mostly lug + fillet. We're considering some all- tig (minus seat 
>> lug) and may go half like that. Not sure..
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 11:10 AM, Doug Hansford  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Will the price be Clem like? I know, I know you said that’s all you have 
>>> to say about that for now, channeling my Gump. But, I had to ask...
>>> Doug from low humidity pleasant day in Athens, GA. Won’t get used to it
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jul 23, 2018, at 2:05 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>> > 
>>> > Yeah, I'm gonna need this bike. I don't think I ever emailed anyone at 
>>> Riv about it, but I love the HHH fork and was hoping it would show up on a 
>>> not-tandem eventually. Take my money!
>>> > 
>>> > Joe Bernard
>>> > Novato CA. 
>>> > 
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>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[iamkeith]

Philip, what constitutes a "real" dropper post?  The original is still going 
strong, is made in the USA in my neck of the woods, still offers real customer 
service, and is still available in 27.2.  

http://gravitydropper.com

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[RBW] Re: Prayers for Deacon Patrick

[Philip Williamson]

I"m glad you're safe, and I'm sorry for the destruction. Good wake up call, 
though - plan for another 200 year flood in the next two years, and another 
1000 year flood in the next five.   

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

On Monday, July 23, 2018 at 5:46:40 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thank you, Dave. We’re all fine. What a spectacular storm! I heard a roar 
> in it as it was slowly moving overhead that I suspect was the funnel cloud 
> folks spotted. It didn’t touch down. This is the New Colorado, where you 
> can light your stogie with the wildfire (6 miles away over the weekend, now 
> 100% contained) and then put it out in the flooding a day later. Full 
> service. Sardonic grin. I think this is our third “200 year flood” in five 
> years. I’m pretty sure they don’t have a grasp on weather patterns when 
> they keep saying that. Being the mountains, we flood fast (deadly, if 
> you’re unaware) and receed fast. This is now “monsoon” season, so it may 
> happen again. 
>
> We join your prayers in praying for those effected. May God startle you 
> with joy! 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[masmojo]

Proofs in the pudding as they say.
I wasn't particularly predisposed to liking either threadless stems or disc 
brakes, but after living with both for 10+ years I am more or less forced to 
concede to their superiority. 
A quill stem IS more esthetically pleasing, I don't think anyone will argue 
otherwise, but functionally the threadless just plain works. The "star nut" 
used to freak me out, but it's proven a reliable design. 
As far as disc brakes go, theoretically a rim brake is better & it is adequate 
the majority of the time, but day in, day out the disc just gets it done.
One point that these discussions about brakes typically fail to address is that 
a rim brake can never equal a disc brake, because the brake pad has to juggle 
two different agendas; first creating enough friction to grip & stop the 
rim/wheel, but not enough to excessively wear the rim. On the other hand a disc 
brake can be made of a highly effective friction material, because both the pad 
& the disc are designed to wear out.
I appreciate the aesthetics of a beautiful bike, but when it comes to 
components I'm inclined to go with proven things that work well. If I  have to 
compromise, one to get the other. Well, I guess OK, but why?

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[RBW] Re: Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[Sean McRobert]

I'd say buy a used seat post, flat pedals and a cheap saddle and sell it as 
a complete bike.  You'll get a broader audience and the rest of your keeper 
components can be found again.  Maybe the next Riv you find will be nicely 
equipped and you wont need to build it up.   Decide how much you need to 
get to be satisfied and post it for sale here first. It doesn't cost a 
thing and anyone here that fits that bike would be happy to own it for the 
right price.  Personally, I get in the same amount of trouble whether I buy 
another frame or a complete bike, so I'd prefer to be able to ride it a 
while before I start spending time wrenching on it and packages of bike 
parts start showing up at the door.  Good luck whatever you decide.

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Joe Bernard]

The smiley faces are what really put it over the plate 😀

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Garth]

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 6:27:54 PM UTC-4, Belopsky wrote:
> What im reading is people will make sacrifices but why ? For the price that 
> this will be just get a custom jeez but then it's not a riv



Igor, in cycling as in baseball ,  there's no crying 😀


If Grant/Riv catered to the constantly changing whim of every customer .he 
would please no more/no less than as-is today, but Grant I suspect, would never 
be pleased, so likely no more Rivendell at all.  

Funny, but the present tense, is the only "time" there is. Try speaking as was 
or will be  and notice the present-tense/presence is inescapable. Now is 
now, no  matter what a clock or calendar of Sun may be assumed/presumed as 
meaning. That "meaning" under the light of Truth, cannnot be found, it has 
none. Now , present tense, simply is, infinitum .  The point of this is is 
there is no such thing as new or old anything, A present that is not-present, 
never was, never will be. The One present is the only One present 😀

So in regards to "bike technology/parts" and "age/availability" . I need 
not say more.  No, all the so-assumed "logic" in the world cannot figure this 
utter simplicity out, which is wonderfully a-maze-ing 😀   

Smile !

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Philip Williamson]

As long as you don't go with a 31.6 seat tube to run a real dropper post. 
Then I'll feel dumb for ordering my new Fitz (rigid fork, rim brakes, 60mm 
tires, dropper post). 

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA 

On Monday, July 23, 2018 at 2:15:18 PM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> We're thinking of stuff about price. To be CLEM-like would mean all TIG, 
> and that's--obviously--easier and still strong and all, but the first run 
> will be mostly lug + fillet. We're considering some all- tig (minus seat 
> lug) and may go half like that. Not sure..
>
> On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 11:10 AM, Doug Hansford  > wrote:
>
>> Will the price be Clem like? I know, I know you said that’s all you have 
>> to say about that for now, channeling my Gump. But, I had to ask...
>> Doug from low humidity pleasant day in Athens, GA. Won’t get used to it
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jul 23, 2018, at 2:05 PM, Joe Bernard > > wrote:
>> > 
>> > Yeah, I'm gonna need this bike. I don't think I ever emailed anyone at 
>> Riv about it, but I love the HHH fork and was hoping it would show up on a 
>> not-tandem eventually. Take my money!
>> > 
>> > Joe Bernard
>> > Novato CA. 
>> > 
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Joe Bernard]

Sure, but threadless setups flex less on "real mountain bikes" with massive 
amounts of flex built into their forks and rear triangles, so there ya go! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Belopsky]

maybe or maybe not.

quill stems flex for a real mountain bike. sorry not sorry.

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Joe Bernard]

"What im reading is people will make sacrifices but why ? For the price that 
this will be just get a custom jeez but then it's not a riv"

You be trollin' bro. At this point we have no idea what the price will be, so 
this comment contains a bushel of silliness. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ginz]

I think the fair comparison is bullmoose vs threadless and I’d bet that’s a 
significant weight difference. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 07/24/2018 06:25 PM, 'Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:

Stems. Threadless is a lighter system by quite a bit. Two things it lacks is 
adjustability and comfort. My long quill stem and the one inch steerer flex 
quite comfortably. I think it is one of the secrets to the Atlantis’s 
adoration. It is far easier to raise and lower your handlebars too, but that 
matters when? Just once usually. Not really an issue.


Not really true, especially if you keep the bike for a long time. Bodies 
change, and the three or four inches of bar drop that were fine when you 
were in your late 40s may be impossible to live with by the time you're 
60.  I'm speaking here from personal experience.   And consider the 
context for a minute: this is the RBW and we're not talking about 
disposable bikes here.  The bike I rode last, before the current round 
of endless rain began again, was made 55 years ago.  Rivendells are made 
as well as Jack Taylors  were, and should last as well.


Even changing your handlebar may end up requiring you to raise the bar a 
bot -- not a big problem, of course, unless you're maxed out already.  
But most of the time the bike already comes with an upsloping stem and 
the shops cut the steerer to height leaving no extra room for further 
upward movement.   Oops.




Aesthetically I think quill wins.
I was hoping for a lugged plus frame but fillet sounds pretty cool too, like 
the old high end Ritchey and Fisher frames from back in the day.
I’d like a thread-less stem as this could be my next bike packing bike and 
‘car’ ( I bought a Crust LD stem to build a bike around 😏) and it’s a lighter 
system.


Does the difference in weight between a quill stem and a threadless stem 
matter with a bike-packing bike?  Bike packing is, after all, load 
carrying.  You really think you're going to notice a few ounces  weight 
difference on a bike like this?


Image result for bikepacking

Just how much weight difference do you think we're talking about, 
anyway?  As much as a Swiss Army knife?   I doubt it.


  
I’d like discs but am fine with rim brakes. Kind of. They suck in the winter in the ice and snow and snow plow grit eats up rims. Discs are quicker, cheaper and easier to replace.   I hope that Paul’s V-brakes clear a 2.8’ tire. Looking at my bike with 2.35’ tires, I’m not sure...

I have more chainring clearance over rocks and drops since I changed my 
transmission over to SRAM XX1 on my Atlantis, so I don’t think the new bike is 
worth me swapping to at this point. Ground clearance was my only real issue 
with the single track capability of the Atlantis.
The new bike isn’t lugged. 😩 Sob..sob...
I could change my mind in a minute if it has cool colors and a stellar name...😉

Clayton
#DirtDanceDesigns



--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Belopsky]

What im reading is people will make sacrifices but why ? For the price that 
this will be just get a custom jeez but then it's not a riv

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Stems. Threadless is a lighter system by quite a bit. Two things it lacks is 
adjustability and comfort. My long quill stem and the one inch steerer flex 
quite comfortably. I think it is one of the secrets to the Atlantis’s 
adoration. It is far easier to raise and lower your handlebars too, but that 
matters when? Just once usually. Not really an issue. Aesthetically I think 
quill wins. 
I was hoping for a lugged plus frame but fillet sounds pretty cool too, like 
the old high end Ritchey and Fisher frames from back in the day.  
I’d like a thread-less stem as this could be my next bike packing bike and 
‘car’ ( I bought a Crust LD stem to build a bike around 😏) and it’s a lighter 
system.  
I’d like discs but am fine with rim brakes. Kind of. They suck in the winter in 
the ice and snow and snow plow grit eats up rims. Discs are quicker, cheaper 
and easier to replace.   I hope that Paul’s V-brakes clear a 2.8’ tire. Looking 
at my bike with 2.35’ tires, I’m not sure...
I have more chainring clearance over rocks and drops since I changed my 
transmission over to SRAM XX1 on my Atlantis, so I don’t think the new bike is 
worth me swapping to at this point. Ground clearance was my only real issue 
with the single track capability of the Atlantis. 
The new bike isn’t lugged. 😩 Sob..sob...
I could change my mind in a minute if it has cool colors and a stellar name...😉

Clayton 
#DirtDanceDesigns

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[RBW] Cushy Cotton Bar Tape

[Drw]

I bought some but didn’t install. It doesn’t feel as cushy or cottony as I’d 
hoped. I really like newbaums but the Serfas woven tape is a new favorite. You 
can definitely wrap noodles with one package of the serfas tape, and it’s about 
25$

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Re: [RBW] Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[Kiley Demond]

Thank you. As it was not my intention to create a “for sale” post, but to 
solicit advice about complete vs. parting out, your answer was helpful. I will 
go ahead and strip the bike and think about a price. One sold on eBay May 31st 
for $849. Mine is probably in modestly better shape, but otherwise identical.
On Jul 24, 2018, 1:42 PM -0700, Joe Bernard , wrote:
> In my opinion the best ways are complete, or part everything out. This forum 
> is a good place to start, but it would be wise to restate this question with 
> prices next to the frame and parts list.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Virgil Staphbeard]

Also, the addition of a decaleur or cable hanger in the stack adds to the 
loosening potential ,provided they don't have their own locking potential 
(i.e. Paul Funky Monkey or Mark Guglielmana decaleur). The locknut fails to 
do its job if there is potentially rotating part introduced between them. 

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:05:06 AM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> The "secret" to properly snugging a threaded headset is to use two 
> wrenches (in the case of a non-Rinko style). The spanner kind goes on the 
> cup flats, and it's really helpful to use the Stein-type (now also made by 
> Park) that's chunky and grabs around about 230 degrees and cannot slip. You 
> lightly overtighten the cup, then countersqueeze the keyed washer with 
> opposing forces on both wrenches. Let me say that if I didn't know exactly 
> what all these words meant, it would seem like a hassle, but it is super 
> easy. Like anything on a bike or in life, it takes a little practice to 
> develop the skill, but so does every mechanical adjustment on your bike. 
> Once you have it down, it takes roughly 20 seconds, maximum. The actually 
> tightening, 4-5 seconds. 
> The PROBLEM is that -- kind of like learning to patch inner tubes or 
> remove and reinstall the rear wheel when all you ride is Schwalbe tires -- 
> there's not a lot of opportunity to learn.
>
> On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 5:59 AM, hugh flynn  > wrote:
>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 2:37 PM masmojo > > wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> ...
>>> Riv, people don't have problems with headsets coming loose!? Wow, I 
>>> wonder what their secret is, I've never owned a bike with a quill stem that 
>>> didn't  eventually need to be tightened. (& I've tried many techniques to 
>>> tighten them so they don't come loose). On the other hand I've never had a 
>>> threadless come loose.
>>
>>
>> Doubt it's Riv specific but in 40+ years and many 1,000's of miles of 
>> cycling with both threadless and threaded headsets, I've never had a 
>> problem with either and have yet to perform a field adjustment either on or 
>> off road.
>>
>> Hugh "not a big problem for me" Flynn
>> Newburyport, MA
>>
>>> -- 
>> Hugh Flynn
>> Newburyport, MA
>>
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>

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[RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

I wonder if the LBS I spoke to is simply being more conservative with the 
stated weight rating, was mistaken, or maybe they just have remaining stock 
before a change was made on the original model?  Not 100% sure, and didn’t 
intend to provide any misinformation but when they mentioned the weight limit I 
questioned it believing I did in fact read 33lbs for both models initially but 
they insisted the limit was 27lbs for the Yepp model front seat they carried, 
which was not the Nexxt version, which I noted the last time I was there before 
ready for the purchase as the vent holes molded in the seat are different 
between both and the Nexxt version has less of the Crocs type foam padding on 
the exterior.

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Belopsky]

I'd say that threadless needs an allen key or two, unless you have a stem 
with torx.

easier than threaded.

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[RBW] Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[Joe Bernard]

In my opinion the best ways are complete, or part everything out. This forum is 
a good place to start, but it would be wise to restate this question with 
prices next to the frame and parts list. 

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[RBW] Cushy Cotton Bar Tape

[jandrews]

I recently received and email update that the cushy cotton bar tape that 
Riv introduced not that long ago was back in stock.
So, I'm guessing that means that their first order of the stuff sold out 
and some of you fine folks have tried them.
Does anyone have any feedback about this bar tape?
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/handlebars/products/handlebar-tape-cushy-cotton-2?variant=3915208589325
Specifically, How does it feel?, how much coverage did you get out of the 
roll?, did you shellac it?, 
Sounds like from the webpage it would take 3 rolls to wrap a Noodle and 
that's $30 so just checking in here before spending that money on bar tape.
JS

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Steve Palincsar]

Few if any have even the slightest clue about how to adjust cable 
tension.  Most have no difficulty removing and replacing wheels or 
changing tires.



On 07/24/2018 03:58 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:

Those owners probably aren't fiddling with other parts of their bikes, either. 
I have a friend with several bikes who hasn't the first clue about working on 
them, it's just not her thing.



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Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[masmojo]

It is completely easy & I thouught to mention that about about the tools after 
my last post, but it's important to note. One or two allen keys & you're set. 
Rather than 3 lbs of spanners.

I was just thinking it would be funny to call it the Wildcat Rock Machine! LOL

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[RBW] Best Way To Sell a Riv Cheviot 60cm Orange

[Kiley Demond]

Hi- The time has come for me to sell my Cheviot. I love it, but I seem to 
get more pleasure out of tinkering than riding. I use bikes as a way to 
heal after a loss (and unfortunately, I have been given several 
opportunities to find this out over the last five years) and right now I 
need the money more than the bike. But I digress

Is it better to sell a bike as a frame or with components?  (Note: "better" 
means higher overall selling price and ease of transaction.) 
Since there is a strong liklihood I will build up another Riv in the not 
too distant future, I am going to keep some of the components, but I will 
sell many; I don't know if I should try and sell the frame with the 
components or if I should strip the frame completely (or partially). I am 
in Prescott AZ so it most likely will need to be shipped. I have sold 
several other non-Riv bikes on eBay, is that still the best venue? Thank 
you for your thoughts. 

*Keeping* (these are my curated selections)
Saddle (Rivet Loveland  — 
gorgeous saddle with rails that allow the seat to sit further back than a 
Brooks)
Seat post (Nitto lugged set-back, 27.2 x 250)
Handlebar (Nitto Bosco Bar, Alu HT 58cm x 25.4)
Brake levers (Paul Canti Lever)
Pedals (Grand Cru Sabot)
Front derailleur (SunXCD)
Rear derailleur (still pending the purchase of Sun XCD;-))
Stem (Nitto Tallux Stem - 25.4mm - 11cm — I would sell but then I would 
have to destroy another set of Meisha cork grips, so maybe eventually)
Cables and cable housing (Velo Orange metallic braid)

*Selling*
Shifters (IRD Silver ratchet thumb shifters)
Brakes (stock Tektro 559 long reach)
Derailleurs (stock Shimano M591)
Drive train (stock 2 x 9, 11-32t with chain)
Cranks (Sugino XD2 WIDE/LOW double Crank 40/26t - 175)
Wheels (Stock Velocity 700c x 36hwheels; 85% sureI will sell, depends on 
how likely it is I would use these on the next bike)


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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Joe Bernard]

Those owners probably aren't fiddling with other parts of their bikes, either. 
I have a friend with several bikes who hasn't the first clue about working on 
them, it's just not her thing.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Steve Palincsar]

Maybe you should try removing the extra links and see if it skips 
then.   (Or did someone already suggest that? I haven't been keeping up.)



On 07/24/2018 03:22 PM, Lester Lammers wrote:

Brett wrote:

*The chain is not particularly worn (I don't have calipers, but it has 
at most a few hundred miles on it). It does have 6 or so extra links 
spliced into it using a second power link in order to accommodate the 
long chain stays.* The cassette appears to be in ok shape--no shark 
fins yet. If it comes down to replacing parts, I'll start there. The 
derailleur? It's an Altus--basically bullet proof, right? It's limits 
are set properly.


I'm having the same problem with my newly built MIT Atlantis. The 
chain, with a few extra links, and cassette are new. I'm not sure but 
I think the chain is binding under load.




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USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Steve Palincsar]

Thanks for the summary.  You do make it sound simple.  Makes me wonder 
why none of the owners who have them have ever had any idea how to go 
about adjusting one.



On 07/24/2018 03:07 PM, Jeremy Till wrote:

Hey Steve, it's really simple to adjust a threadless headset:

1. Loosen clamping bolts on the stem.
2. Tighten the bolt in the top cap just enough that no play can be 
discerned via the usual headset adjustment check (locking front brake, 
rocking the bike against the fork).  If the headset is too tight, 
loosen until there is play and re-tighten appropriately.

3. Check that stem is aligned with front wheel
4. Tighten clamping bolts on the stem.

I then usually double check that the headset is rotating freely by 
lifting the bike with the rear end elevated and making sure the fork 
returns to center when turned to either side, but i would do that for 
either a threaded or threadless headset.


In general I wouldn't say that either threaded or threadless headsets 
are inherently easier or harder to understand or adjust; it's just a 
matter of educating yourself on the procedures either way.


On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:24:15 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

Actually, a threaded headset's adjustment is quite easy to
understand.
It's obvious, really: there are nuts that are clearly meant to be
tightened or loosened.  Threadless is another story: there's no
visible
means of support, other than maybe mash down hard on the stem and
then
clamp it down, but that hardly seems to make any sense, and if
that was
how it was supposed to work it couldn't possibly be very accurate.

But my point is simply that for all the talk about how simple it is,
I've yet to find anybody on a ride who knew how to adjust one even
though they all had them and they all had the tools.  (And no, I
have no
idea how to do it.  I can do a fair job with a threaded headset,
though.)

And I should add, the only bike I ever had that had an issue with the
threaded headset loosening turned out to be a problem with the
washers
not being thick enough.  Once that was fixed, no further
problems.  Of
course I don't ride MTB.


On 07/24/2018 12:37 PM, masmojo wrote:
> Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike
shop 37 years ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose.
Steel headsets tend to stay in place better, fewer problems with
loosening, but they're heavy. Aluminum on the other hand comes
loose no matter. I discover mine is loose typically on washboard
surfaces when I'm miles from home.
>
> Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are
going to have a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded
headset/quill stem as well.



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Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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[RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Lester Lammers]

Brett wrote: 

*The chain is not particularly worn (I don't have calipers, but it has at 
most a few hundred miles on it). It does have 6 or so extra links spliced 
into it using a second power link in order to accommodate the long chain 
stays.*  The cassette appears to be in ok shape--no shark fins yet. If it 
comes down to replacing parts, I'll start there. The derailleur? It's an 
Altus--basically bullet proof, right? It's limits are set properly. 

I'm having the same problem with my newly built MIT Atlantis. The chain, 
with a few extra links, and cassette are new. I'm not sure but I think the 
chain is binding under load.



>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan M.]

"In general I wouldn't say that either threaded or threadless headsets are 
inherently easier or harder to understand or adjust; it's just a matter of 
educating yourself on the procedures either way."

I agree and would add that the great thing about threadless is that you are 
generally carrying the tool needed to adjust the entire system with you on 
a ride where a threaded headset you need two rather large wrenches...and 
I'd be surprised if anybody carries them while riding. Either way, set it 
up and adjust it right once and you generally don't have to screw around 
with it on the road/trail (unless you are wrenching the bars back and forth 
during a rather jarring single track ride and have the quill slip and 
turn...happened to me once). 


I have found the beauty of threaded to be not only the aesthetics, which I 
prefer, but it's way easier to adjust stem height. 


On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 2:07:40 PM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:

> Hey Steve, it's really simple to adjust a threadless headset: 
>
> 1. Loosen clamping bolts on the stem.  
> 2. Tighten the bolt in the top cap just enough that no play can be 
> discerned via the usual headset adjustment check (locking front brake, 
> rocking the bike against the fork).  If the headset is too tight, loosen 
> until there is play and re-tighten appropriately.  
> 3. Check that stem is aligned with front wheel
> 4. Tighten clamping bolts on the stem.  
>
> I then usually double check that the headset is rotating freely by lifting 
> the bike with the rear end elevated and making sure the fork returns to 
> center when turned to either side, but i would do that for either a 
> threaded or threadless headset.  
>
> In general I wouldn't say that either threaded or threadless headsets are 
> inherently easier or harder to understand or adjust; it's just a matter of 
> educating yourself on the procedures either way.
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:24:15 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> Actually, a threaded headset's adjustment is quite easy to understand.  
>> It's obvious, really: there are nuts that are clearly meant to be 
>> tightened or loosened.  Threadless is another story: there's no visible 
>> means of support, other than maybe mash down hard on the stem and then 
>> clamp it down, but that hardly seems to make any sense, and if that was 
>> how it was supposed to work it couldn't possibly be very accurate. 
>>
>> But my point is simply that for all the talk about how simple it is, 
>> I've yet to find anybody on a ride who knew how to adjust one even 
>> though they all had them and they all had the tools.  (And no, I have no 
>> idea how to do it.  I can do a fair job with a threaded headset, though.) 
>>
>> And I should add, the only bike I ever had that had an issue with the 
>> threaded headset loosening turned out to be a problem with the washers 
>> not being thick enough.  Once that was fixed, no further problems.  Of 
>> course I don't ride MTB. 
>>
>>
>> On 07/24/2018 12:37 PM, masmojo wrote: 
>> > Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike shop 
>> 37 years ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose. Steel headsets 
>> tend to stay in place better, fewer problems with loosening, but they're 
>> heavy. Aluminum on the other hand comes loose no matter. I discover mine is 
>> loose typically on washboard surfaces when I'm miles from home. 
>> > 
>> > Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are going 
>> to have a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded headset/quill 
>> stem as well. 
>> > 
>>
>> -- 
>> Steve Palincsar 
>> Alexandria, Virginia 
>> USA 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Jeremy Till]

Hey Steve, it's really simple to adjust a threadless headset: 

1. Loosen clamping bolts on the stem.  
2. Tighten the bolt in the top cap just enough that no play can be 
discerned via the usual headset adjustment check (locking front brake, 
rocking the bike against the fork).  If the headset is too tight, loosen 
until there is play and re-tighten appropriately.  
3. Check that stem is aligned with front wheel
4. Tighten clamping bolts on the stem.  

I then usually double check that the headset is rotating freely by lifting 
the bike with the rear end elevated and making sure the fork returns to 
center when turned to either side, but i would do that for either a 
threaded or threadless headset.  

In general I wouldn't say that either threaded or threadless headsets are 
inherently easier or harder to understand or adjust; it's just a matter of 
educating yourself on the procedures either way.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:24:15 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Actually, a threaded headset's adjustment is quite easy to understand.  
> It's obvious, really: there are nuts that are clearly meant to be 
> tightened or loosened.  Threadless is another story: there's no visible 
> means of support, other than maybe mash down hard on the stem and then 
> clamp it down, but that hardly seems to make any sense, and if that was 
> how it was supposed to work it couldn't possibly be very accurate. 
>
> But my point is simply that for all the talk about how simple it is, 
> I've yet to find anybody on a ride who knew how to adjust one even 
> though they all had them and they all had the tools.  (And no, I have no 
> idea how to do it.  I can do a fair job with a threaded headset, though.) 
>
> And I should add, the only bike I ever had that had an issue with the 
> threaded headset loosening turned out to be a problem with the washers 
> not being thick enough.  Once that was fixed, no further problems.  Of 
> course I don't ride MTB. 
>
>
> On 07/24/2018 12:37 PM, masmojo wrote: 
> > Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike shop 37 
> years ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose. Steel headsets tend 
> to stay in place better, fewer problems with loosening, but they're heavy. 
> Aluminum on the other hand comes loose no matter. I discover mine is loose 
> typically on washboard surfaces when I'm miles from home. 
> > 
> > Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are going 
> to have a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded headset/quill 
> stem as well. 
> > 
>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar 
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Prayers for Deacon Patrick

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Well said, Mat. On my ride today, roads and paths and various bridges washed 
out. Homes have been flooded. No lives reported lost, and no injuries that I’ve 
heard of. Clean up will be a while. All in all a pretty minimal impact “200 
year flood.” 

With abandon,
Patrick 

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[RBW] Re: Stein-type headset wrench

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, all. I mis-spoke as usual: I do use the 16" adjustable wrench for
the locknut, the Park (not Stein type) headset wrench on the cup, not the
reverse, and it works well, except for that variation in the width of the
flats on the adjustable cup. But I'd like to get a Stein-type wrench for
the cup -- not that I really *need *one.

So, are they available anywhere for $40 or less?

I've got 2 of the cheaper Park hs wrenches too, and neither seem to fit any
adjustable cup I've come across with the precision I'd like.

I always kneel on the floor and hold the bike up with my head. (Just
kidding; I've got a nice stand, but I've done pretty thorough overhauls
holding bike up between forehead and wall.) I do have the technique down.

Anyway, no big deal.

Thanks again.


On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 9:20 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I ought to get one of these; I've used the old Park hex style for decades,
> with no more damage than burring the edges of a few aluminum locknuts, but
> this Stein type will be better
>
> Only, does one have to pay $60 at Missing Link Tools (the sole source
> Google showed me) to get one? The only Stein wrench I found is on eBay for
> $86.
>
> I agree with Hugh, you just don't have to adjust decent headsets (and just
> about any aftermarket headset sold in the US is decent, IME) once you get
> them right. Heck, even the OEM ones on generic commodity bikes stay put, as
> far as my experience goes.
>
> That said, perhaps I should saven my money, but if I can find a Stein type
> for $40 or less, I'll bite.
>
> Now some of the cheap Indian-made headsets I worked on came loose all the
> time, but perhaps taht was because I used a "monkey wrench" to "adjust"
> them.
>
> So, sources?
>
> Thanks.
>
> PS: What do you (all) use to hold the cup in place while you tighten the
> locknut? Me, a large adjustable wrench which hasn't slipped yet.
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 9:04 AM, Grant Petersen 
> wrote:
>
>> The "secret" to properly snugging a threaded headset is to use two
>> wrenches (in the case of a non-Rinko style). The spanner kind goes on the
>> cup flats, and it's really helpful to use the Stein-type (now also made by
>> Park) that's chunky and grabs around about 230 degrees and cannot slip
>>
>


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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Bill Lindsay]

+1

In my nuts and bolts tupperware on my workbench I probably have 50 of 
them.  

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:25:42 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> If you live anywhere near any type of bike shop, I guarantee you that if 
> you go in and ask for one of these they will be able to find one or 
> several.  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Bill Lindsay]

Since your OP was about a diagnosis, I assumed you wanted to find out the 
cause.  If that's still what you want to do, then change one thing at a 
time.  If you change three things (chain, cassette, and B-tension) and then 
the behavior of the system changes, you won't know which one was the 
cause.  It's bad science to change multiple things at once if your real 
objective is to understand what is going on.  If your actual objective is 
just to fix it no matter what, then clearly replacing the entire drivetrain 
should take care of it. 

My advice would be to swap in a different rear wheel.  That's a free 
experiment.  If the behavior is the same, the chain is suspect.  If the 
problem is fixed, the chain is not at fault.  

My alternative advice would be to have a good mechanic look at it and tell 
you what they would try if it was their bike. The good mechanics here on 
iBob haven't looked it over.   

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 7:53:51 AM UTC-7, Brett Callahan wrote:
>
> Thanks to everyone who has chimed in. I wasn't able to tinker further last 
> night, but I'll be replacing the rear cassette and chain. Hopefully that 
> solves it. If not, I'll take a long hard look at the hub. 
>
> The B screw is basically all the way in. I'll back that off, too. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Paul Clifton]

Thule lists both the Yepp Mini and the Yepp Nexxt Mini for up to 33lbs.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 2:14:43 PM UTC-4, Paul Clifton wrote:
>
> Thanks Brian. This is all really useful info. It definitely makes the 
> Nexxt version sound appealing. I'd notice the 3 lb weight difference, but I 
> didn't realize the standard Yepp only went up to 27 lbs.
>
> I definitely won't have a top tube as long as on your 65 Clem, but I am on 
> the short side for my MTBubbe, so it's worth a try, maybe.
>
> The easy on/off is good too, because I'd rather not give up my touring or 
> mountain bike options, but maybe instead of a BOSCO BEBE, I could get a 
> hold of a fancy modern MTB ...
>
> The Siren song of N+1 
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 12:31:59 PM UTC-4, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>>
>> I'll add that I have no issue with splaying my knees during the ride on 
>> the Clem H with front seat installed.  I also find no issue with the seat 
>> being mounted so high on the Clem's high headtube, and maybe that 
>> contributes to the knee clearance I have.  My setup is much like Dave's as 
>> pictured, except with the H top tube on the Clem so I have less stand over 
>> clearance but still don't have much trouble mounting/dismounting.  The 
>> greatest issue, which is also apparent in Dave's picture, is the lack of 
>> "wiggle room" between front of saddle and the back of the baby seat.  It's 
>> not a big issue in practice and I've already become accustomed to it and 
>> relearned my mounting technique to accommodate.
>>
>> I'll add that one of the greatest features of the Thule/Yepp seats, both 
>> the front and the Ride Along Rear, is the quick release on/off.  It's a 
>> matter of seconds to unlock the mount and release the seat when not riding 
>> with your child (the base stays mounted) and an added benefit is that if 
>> you want to ride with different bikes you could get extra bases/mounts 
>> separately and move the seat easily from bike to bike.  
>>
>> I have not yet purchased extra mounts since my wife and I now have the 
>> different seats installed on our respective bikes and we only have room for 
>> one bike each in our apartment but I may eventually get an extra mount for 
>> the rear seat to use on another of my bikes once our son out grows the 
>> front seat.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Paul Clifton]

Thanks Brian. This is all really useful info. It definitely makes the Nexxt 
version sound appealing. I'd notice the 3 lb weight difference, but I 
didn't realize the standard Yepp only went up to 27 lbs.

I definitely won't have a top tube as long as on your 65 Clem, but I am on 
the short side for my MTBubbe, so it's worth a try, maybe.

The easy on/off is good too, because I'd rather not give up my touring or 
mountain bike options, but maybe instead of a BOSCO BEBE, I could get a 
hold of a fancy modern MTB ...

The Siren song of N+1 

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 12:31:59 PM UTC-4, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
> I'll add that I have no issue with splaying my knees during the ride on 
> the Clem H with front seat installed.  I also find no issue with the seat 
> being mounted so high on the Clem's high headtube, and maybe that 
> contributes to the knee clearance I have.  My setup is much like Dave's as 
> pictured, except with the H top tube on the Clem so I have less stand over 
> clearance but still don't have much trouble mounting/dismounting.  The 
> greatest issue, which is also apparent in Dave's picture, is the lack of 
> "wiggle room" between front of saddle and the back of the baby seat.  It's 
> not a big issue in practice and I've already become accustomed to it and 
> relearned my mounting technique to accommodate.
>
> I'll add that one of the greatest features of the Thule/Yepp seats, both 
> the front and the Ride Along Rear, is the quick release on/off.  It's a 
> matter of seconds to unlock the mount and release the seat when not riding 
> with your child (the base stays mounted) and an added benefit is that if 
> you want to ride with different bikes you could get extra bases/mounts 
> separately and move the seat easily from bike to bike.  
>
> I have not yet purchased extra mounts since my wife and I now have the 
> different seats installed on our respective bikes and we only have room for 
> one bike each in our apartment but I may eventually get an extra mount for 
> the rear seat to use on another of my bikes once our son out grows the 
> front seat.
>

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[jandrews]

Thanks everyone 
I happily just used a regular nut.
We are back in business.


On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 12:51:56 PM UTC-4, Greg J wrote:
>
> Like Wally, I also save the hardware from old pads, and I'm pretty sure I 
> have those in my parts bin.  I'll check too.  As someone else said, it's 
> just a metric nut, so you could just go old school with a wrench and a nut.
>
> Greg
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 6:50:02 AM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>>
>> Hello All
>>
>> I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
>> is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
>> adjust the pad.
>> These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to 
>> purchase new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
>> Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
>> substitution is?
>> I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
>> This is what I'm referring to:
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>> Jason
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTT: My 46 Noodles for your Choco Norms

[jandrews]

I should add that I'd also be interested in purchasing someone's used Choco 
Norms in addition to trading for the Nood's.




On Sunday, July 22, 2018 at 3:03:00 PM UTC-4, jandrews wrote:
>
> Howdy
> Curious if anyone here may have purchased a Choco-norm bar and would like 
> to trade for a 46cm Noodle?. I would like to try it out.
> *im not interested in a Choco-moose.
> My Noodles are in fine , but used shape.
> Thanks 
> Jason 
>

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[RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Garth]

  I find it hilarious that g00gle doesn't include an edit feature, but when 
the message is deleted they bother to post that it's been deleted. Hey, "no 
shit Sherlock" !   

ahahahahahahahaah ! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Steve Palincsar]

And it wasn't even that ever-so-slippery "not".    Say it ain't so, Joe...


On 07/24/2018 01:40 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:

Of course I confused things (again) with a typo. I give up! Deleted!



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Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Ron Mc]

In my case, definitely wasn't cog wear, was a worn Connex link.  The 12t 
cog that was slipping only gets a bit of downhill use, and the Suntour 
Winner 7 freewheel was bought NOS.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Joe Bernard]

Of course I confused things (again) with a typo. I give up! Deleted!

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Joe Bernard]

A. My original answer related to early mountain bikers who had problems with 
threaded headsets loosening on singletrack, hence the invention of a different 
way to do it. B. Everybody should go to Park Tool and click on threaded headset 
adjustment. It's absurdly easy. 

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Commuting

[Philip Williamson]

I commute on my Quickbeam, too. Fixed two speed (almost never shift), front 
basket, fenders, dynamo lights. There's a pack on the back of the basket 
with a lock and minimal tool kit. Having a basket and net is the key to a 
useful bike, for me.

My riding time is about half an hour. I ride the bus to San Francisco, and 
then wheel along the waterfront to downtown SF. 


If you could find a Quickbeam or SimpleOne, I'd recommend it very highly 
for commute duties. 




Philip
Santa Rosa, CA


On Sunday, July 22, 2018 at 1:16:44 PM UTC-7, JohnS wrote:
>
> My Quickbeam has been my commuter for the past 6 months. My commute is 
> about 20 miles round trip from center city Baltimore to BWI, some hills but 
> nothing too serious. Riding fixed is a great workout! Fenders,generator, 
> front and rear lighting and front rack. I've removed the rear rack since 
> I've taken the picture.
>
> JohnS
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Saturday, July 21, 2018 at 3:51:32 PM UTC-4, Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> I commuted off and on for a few months on a Surly LHT but sold it and 
>> stopped commuting. I want to start commuting a few days a week again. My 
>> commute is all asphalt and is 9 miles each way...a little hilly. Is there a 
>> Riv that would be great for that or would any old Riv do?
>> Doug
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Jeremy Till]

If you live anywhere near any type of bike shop, I guarantee you that if 
you go in and ask for one of these they will be able to find one or 
several.  

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 6:50:02 AM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>
> Hello All
>
> I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
> is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
> adjust the pad.
> These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to purchase 
> new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
> Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
> substitution is?
> I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
> This is what I'm referring to:
>
>
> 
>
>
> Thank you
>
> Jason
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Steve Palincsar]

Actually, a threaded headset's adjustment is quite easy to understand.  
It's obvious, really: there are nuts that are clearly meant to be 
tightened or loosened.  Threadless is another story: there's no visible 
means of support, other than maybe mash down hard on the stem and then 
clamp it down, but that hardly seems to make any sense, and if that was 
how it was supposed to work it couldn't possibly be very accurate.


But my point is simply that for all the talk about how simple it is, 
I've yet to find anybody on a ride who knew how to adjust one even 
though they all had them and they all had the tools.  (And no, I have no 
idea how to do it.  I can do a fair job with a threaded headset, though.)


And I should add, the only bike I ever had that had an issue with the 
threaded headset loosening turned out to be a problem with the washers 
not being thick enough.  Once that was fixed, no further problems.  Of 
course I don't ride MTB.



On 07/24/2018 12:37 PM, masmojo wrote:

Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike shop 37 years 
ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose. Steel headsets tend to stay in 
place better, fewer problems with loosening, but they're heavy. Aluminum on the 
other hand comes loose no matter. I discover mine is loose typically on 
washboard surfaces when I'm miles from home.

Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are going to have 
a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded headset/quill stem as well.



--
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Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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[RBW] Re: Stein-type headset wrench

[George Schick]

Many years ago after having become frustrated with the relative size 
variation in headset wrenches (as Garth points out), I bought a 1.25" combo 
wrench to tighten the top nut.  The open end measures 31.99mm when 
calipered, which fits nice and snug on the 32mm headset nuts. This is a BIG 
wrench, measuring 16" long, so it's way overkill for this purpose.  But it 
works well.  Coupled with your stein-type wrench you should be able to 
tighten everything up securely without damage, even on aluminum.  

I agree, though, that the eBay price is way out.  You could buy 2 or 3 of 
these combo wrenches for that price.  When adjusting/tightening headset 
nuts I've found the following tips useful:

- Find a way to support the bike, either by having someone hold it or by 
putting the rear wheel into something like a Rakk storage stand, then pinch 
the fork and front wheel between your knees to keep the steering tube from 
turning as you tighten.

- Thoroughly clean the threads on the steering tube and the top nut 
(automotive brake parts cleaner works best) and apply blue LocTite.

- If spacers are used between the adjustable nut and the top nut, make sure 
that the very last item on the steering tube is the keyed washer.  This 
will keep the movement of the steering tube from loosening the top nut.


On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:20:46 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I ought to get one of these; I've used the old Park hex style for decades, 
> with no more damage than burring the edges of a few aluminum locknuts, but 
> this Stein type will be better
>
> Only, does one have to pay $60 at Missing Link Tools (the sole source 
> Google showed me) to get one? The only Stein wrench I found is on eBay for 
> $86.
>
> I agree with Hugh, you just don't have to adjust decent headsets (and just 
> about any aftermarket headset sold in the US is decent, IME) once you get 
> them right. Heck, even the OEM ones on generic commodity bikes stay put, as 
> far as my experience goes.
>
> That said, perhaps I should saven my money, but if I can find a Stein type 
> for $40 or less, I'll bite.
>
> Now some of the cheap Indian-made headsets I worked on came loose all the 
> time, but perhaps taht was because I used a "monkey wrench" to "adjust" 
> them.
>
> So, sources?
>
> Thanks.
>
> PS: What do you (all) use to hold the cup in place while you tighten the 
> locknut? Me, a large adjustable wrench which hasn't slipped yet.
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 9:04 AM, Grant Petersen  > wrote:
>
>> The "secret" to properly snugging a threaded headset is to use two 
>> wrenches (in the case of a non-Rinko style). The spanner kind goes on the 
>> cup flats, and it's really helpful to use the Stein-type (now also made by 
>> Park) that's chunky and grabs around about 230 degrees and cannot slip
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Greg J]

Like Wally, I also save the hardware from old pads, and I'm pretty sure I 
have those in my parts bin.  I'll check too.  As someone else said, it's 
just a metric nut, so you could just go old school with a wrench and a nut.

Greg

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 6:50:02 AM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>
> Hello All
>
> I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
> is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
> adjust the pad.
> These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to purchase 
> new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
> Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
> substitution is?
> I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
> This is what I'm referring to:
>
>
> 
>
>
> Thank you
>
> Jason
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Stein-type headset wrench

[Joe Bernard]

Park wrench on the cup, big-old adjustable on the top nut. That Stein thingy 
looks the business, but I don't adjust threaded headsets enough to justify an 
$86 tool. All in I'd rather all my bikes had threadless adjusted with an Allen 
key, but I like a lot of threaded bikes. My new Brompton? Threaded, man!

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[masmojo]

Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike shop 37 years 
ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose. Steel headsets tend to stay in 
place better, fewer problems with loosening, but they're heavy. Aluminum on the 
other hand comes loose no matter. I discover mine is loose typically on 
washboard surfaces when I'm miles from home.

Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are going to have 
a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded headset/quill stem as well. 

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[RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

I'll add that I have no issue with splaying my knees during the ride on the 
Clem H with front seat installed.  I also find no issue with the seat being 
mounted so high on the Clem's high headtube, and maybe that contributes to 
the knee clearance I have.  My setup is much like Dave's as pictured, 
except with the H top tube on the Clem so I have less stand over clearance 
but still don't have much trouble mounting/dismounting.  The greatest 
issue, which is also apparent in Dave's picture, is the lack of "wiggle 
room" between front of saddle and the back of the baby seat.  It's not a 
big issue in practice and I've already become accustomed to it and 
relearned my mounting technique to accommodate.

I'll add that one of the greatest features of the Thule/Yepp seats, both 
the front and the Ride Along Rear, is the quick release on/off.  It's a 
matter of seconds to unlock the mount and release the seat when not riding 
with your child (the base stays mounted) and an added benefit is that if 
you want to ride with different bikes you could get extra bases/mounts 
separately and move the seat easily from bike to bike.  

I have not yet purchased extra mounts since my wife and I now have the 
different seats installed on our respective bikes and we only have room for 
one bike each in our apartment but I may eventually get an extra mount for 
the rear seat to use on another of my bikes once our son out grows the 
front seat.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 12:10:46 PM UTC-4, Paul Clifton wrote:

> Thanks for the feedback, Shoji. I love all the photos of the many ways 
> you've biked with your kids!
>
> Maybe it's not just the tall headtube, but the combo of tall headtube and 
> slack headtube angle? The photo of Dave and li'l Dave on the Blahg is what 
> makes me think there's a bit of a problem. The seat is just up and back 
> more than seems ideal.
> (Credit to Blahg: 
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/slkjf)
>
> If the only real effect is splayed knees, I definitely just need to try it 
> out and decide if it bothers me. Maybe I'm short enough that I won't be a 
> problem. I also have Albas on my MTBubbe right now, which might work better 
> than the Bullmoose in the photo.
>
> Paul in ATL
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:50:16 AM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>>
>> Hi Paul,
>> I used Yepp Mini with both my kids, and I highly recommend it. Those were 
>> great rides because they were right up with me. I later had a Yepp rear 
>> seat, but it wasn't the same.
>>
>> Yepp Mini was used on my Hunqapillar and a Surly Cross Check. The only 
>> downside to either ride was that I had a very slight need to pedal with my 
>> knees out. For me, it wasn't a big deal, but I know it can be bothersome to 
>> some people.
>>
>> Why do you think long head tube would make front seat "less than ideal"? 
>> I think taller head tube might improve knee clearance. Also, having front 
>> seat stabilized steering on the Hunqapillar and Cross Check for me. It felt 
>> similar to putting on low rider rack+bags.
>>
>> FWIW: I found Yepp Mini installation was easier and nicer on threaded 
>> stem. I used the front seat with albatross bars, and I liked how it would 
>> reach around the seat.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> shoji
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:19:55 AM UTC-4, Paul Clifton wrote:
>>>
>>> I know this topic comes up frequently. I've learned a lot from reading 
>>> previous threads, but with the impending BOSCO BEBE and an eight month old 
>>> who's anxious to get on a bike, I've got some decisions to make, and I'd 
>>> love some input.
>>>
>>> I'm pretty set on a front seat. It just seems like more fun. I'd love to 
>>> test a few seats out (front and back) before I buy anything, but I'm not 
>>> sure I have that option. Does anyone in the Atlanta area have a baby seat 
>>> or two I can test fit/test ride on a few different bikes? I'd really like 
>>> to test one of the Yepp models, but any seat I could try out would be 
>>> really helpful.
>>>
>>> My big question is, given my stable and the BOSCO BEBE, should I buy the 
>>> best seat for one of my current bikes, even if it's not the one I want, or 
>>> should I buy the seat I think I want, Yepp, mount it on a less than ideal 
>>> bike. Then shuffle the stable and the checkbook around till I get a bike 
>>> that works with the seat.
>>>
>>> I know the normal people answer is buy a seat for your current bike and 
>>> just ride, but I'm hoping to take lots of great rides over the next 2-3 
>>> years, so I can justify a dedicated bike/baby seat combo. I'm just not sure 
>>> what I want that to look like yet.
>>>
>>> Here's the bikes I've got that will work with a seat. Has anyone used a 
>>> front seat on any similar bikes? How'd it work out?
>>>
>>> 1. MTBUBBE - appears that the long head tube makes front seats less than 
>>> ideal. I'm not sure about the handling with an extra 20 lbs towards the 
>>> front.
>>>
>>> 2. 1984 Trek 720 - The fr

[RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Paul Clifton]

Thanks for the feedback, Shoji. I love all the photos of the many ways 
you've biked with your kids!

Maybe it's not just the tall headtube, but the combo of tall headtube and 
slack headtube angle? The photo of Dave and li'l Dave on the Blahg is what 
makes me think there's a bit of a problem. The seat is just up and back 
more than seems ideal.
(Credit to Blahg: 
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/slkjf)

If the only real effect is splayed knees, I definitely just need to try it 
out and decide if it bothers me. Maybe I'm short enough that I won't be a 
problem. I also have Albas on my MTBubbe right now, which might work better 
than the Bullmoose in the photo.

Paul in ATL

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:50:16 AM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
> I used Yepp Mini with both my kids, and I highly recommend it. Those were 
> great rides because they were right up with me. I later had a Yepp rear 
> seat, but it wasn't the same.
>
> Yepp Mini was used on my Hunqapillar and a Surly Cross Check. The only 
> downside to either ride was that I had a very slight need to pedal with my 
> knees out. For me, it wasn't a big deal, but I know it can be bothersome to 
> some people.
>
> Why do you think long head tube would make front seat "less than ideal"? I 
> think taller head tube might improve knee clearance. Also, having front 
> seat stabilized steering on the Hunqapillar and Cross Check for me. It felt 
> similar to putting on low rider rack+bags.
>
> FWIW: I found Yepp Mini installation was easier and nicer on threaded 
> stem. I used the front seat with albatross bars, and I liked how it would 
> reach around the seat.
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:19:55 AM UTC-4, Paul Clifton wrote:
>>
>> I know this topic comes up frequently. I've learned a lot from reading 
>> previous threads, but with the impending BOSCO BEBE and an eight month old 
>> who's anxious to get on a bike, I've got some decisions to make, and I'd 
>> love some input.
>>
>> I'm pretty set on a front seat. It just seems like more fun. I'd love to 
>> test a few seats out (front and back) before I buy anything, but I'm not 
>> sure I have that option. Does anyone in the Atlanta area have a baby seat 
>> or two I can test fit/test ride on a few different bikes? I'd really like 
>> to test one of the Yepp models, but any seat I could try out would be 
>> really helpful.
>>
>> My big question is, given my stable and the BOSCO BEBE, should I buy the 
>> best seat for one of my current bikes, even if it's not the one I want, or 
>> should I buy the seat I think I want, Yepp, mount it on a less than ideal 
>> bike. Then shuffle the stable and the checkbook around till I get a bike 
>> that works with the seat.
>>
>> I know the normal people answer is buy a seat for your current bike and 
>> just ride, but I'm hoping to take lots of great rides over the next 2-3 
>> years, so I can justify a dedicated bike/baby seat combo. I'm just not sure 
>> what I want that to look like yet.
>>
>> Here's the bikes I've got that will work with a seat. Has anyone used a 
>> front seat on any similar bikes? How'd it work out?
>>
>> 1. MTBUBBE - appears that the long head tube makes front seats less than 
>> ideal. I'm not sure about the handling with an extra 20 lbs towards the 
>> front.
>>
>> 2. 1984 Trek 720 - The frame is relatively light, but it rides well with 
>> a load. The clamp spot for a front seat seems more reasonable, but it might 
>> still be tight and the top tube is completely horizontal. I could try it 
>> with riser bars instead of drops.
>>
>> 3. 1985 or so Peugeot MTB (Crazy Horse) - It's an 80s MTB. Super fun to 
>> ride. No idea how the seat would fit and how it would handle. Any thoughts?
>>
>> 4. 90s Cannondale MTB - Pretty similar to the Peugeot, but nicer, newer 
>> parts and a threadless stem.
>>
>> I'm not really interested in trailers right now, even though it's likely 
>> that I'll use one eventually.
>>
>> Maybe a rear seat is the way to go?
>> Does anyone have any tips on how to determine whether a front seat will 
>> work well on a particular bike?
>>
>> My guess is that in the end this is all pretty child-dependent, and I 
>> shouldn't sink to much time and money into this until I know that my child 
>> like to ride bikes. So maybe I just need to experiment a little bit. How 
>> would y'all solve this "problem".
>>
>> Paul in ATL
>>
>> P.S. Anyone selling a used child seat in good condition? I'm your market. 
>> DM me.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Stein-type headset wrench

[Garth]

 I have 2 of the Park wrenches.  I'll use the one that fits best for the 
adjustable cup, and a Stanley Max-something or something-Max( it's yellow 
and black from a decade ago,10 or 12")) adjustable wrench for the top nut. 
Park wrenches are not precisely all the same, each wrench is slightly 
different, despite any claims from Park.  A regular Crescent wrench is 
doesn't hold it's position very well, the Stanley does , once adjusted it 
stays put. 

  For the most part, I prefer steel headsets as it's harder than Al. If a 
top nut made of Al ever gets too rounded, I bought some inexpensive Tange 
Passage steel headsets a few years ago for like $5 each, and I'd use those 
steel locknuts as they are the same height as my other Tange headsets. 

   

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[RBW] Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

I currently own two (front/rear) Thule/Yepp child seats but only actively using 
the front at the moment on my 65cm Clem H.

The front is the Thule Yepp Nexxt model.  Which appears to differ slightly from 
the Yepp (non-Nexxt) models but they effectively work the same as far as I’m 
aware.  What sold me on the Nexxt version was a sale price that made the more 
costly Nexxt the same price as the non-Nexxt and a lighter listed weight (of 
the seat itself) for the Nexxt version.  I almost bought the non-Nexxt version 
at a LBS until I called them to confirm availability before taking the ride 
over ( I knew they stocked it but wanted to ensure they actually had stock on 
hand with limited free time that week) and when speaking to the shop they noted 
a different (baby) weight limit than I remembered and noted the model they 
carried went up to 27lbs.  I had thought both Yepp front models went up to 
33lbs.  So I held off and looked them up and found the Nexxt does state up to 
33lbs for child while also listing a seat weight of nearly half the weight of 
the non-Nexxt Yepp model. (3.something lbs vs 7-ish lbs of the latter.)

When I later found I could get the lighter seat with higher weight capacity for 
same price I went for it.

Notes on fit... you’ll want a long top tube.  Swept back or semi swept bars 
with a more upright ish posture would be best.   The front seats take up a lot 
of space between saddle and bars.  I’m on the low end of the pbh sizing for the 
monster 65cm Clems and have the seat mount and stem slammed as much as the 
combo allows with riser Jones bars and think the combo works great.  My son 
also loves being front and center and interacting with him during the ride is 
lots or fun.

I was fortunate to also be gifted a hand me down rear seat; Thule Ride along, 
which mounts directly to the Seattube and requires no rear rack.  This did not 
fit my Clem due the width/spacing of seat stays and the way the seat mounts and 
is suspended from the seat tube.  It does appear to be a very versatile seat, 
however, as long as the seat stays are not too wide up near the seat tube/top 
tube junction and you have a sufficient amount to seat tube space to clamp the 
mount.  This has since been installed on my wife’s Velo Orange Camargue but she 
has not yet ridden with our son on it.

Best of luck,
Brian Cole
Lawrenceville NJ

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Re: [RBW] Brooks saddle turning into a banana

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Let it dry and it should go back to its original shape. If needed, tighten it 
up with the nut at the front of the saddle to remove the sag.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
@CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)

> On Jul 23, 2018, at 8:59 PM, Jim S.  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have been touring, and yesterday it rained quite a bit. My B17 seems to 
> have developed quite a curve, upsloping front and back, or sagging in the 
> middle. Is this unusual? Is it bad? Just curious about what board members 
> think. Thanks.
> 
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[RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Shoji Takahashi]

Hi Paul,
I used Yepp Mini with both my kids, and I highly recommend it. Those were 
great rides because they were right up with me. I later had a Yepp rear 
seat, but it wasn't the same.

Yepp Mini was used on my Hunqapillar and a Surly Cross Check. The only 
downside to either ride was that I had a very slight need to pedal with my 
knees out. For me, it wasn't a big deal, but I know it can be bothersome to 
some people.

Why do you think long head tube would make front seat "less than ideal"? I 
think taller head tube might improve knee clearance. Also, having front 
seat stabilized steering on the Hunqapillar and Cross Check for me. It felt 
similar to putting on low rider rack+bags.

FWIW: I found Yepp Mini installation was easier and nicer on threaded stem. 
I used the front seat with albatross bars, and I liked how it would reach 
around the seat.

Good luck!
shoji




On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:19:55 AM UTC-4, Paul Clifton wrote:
>
> I know this topic comes up frequently. I've learned a lot from reading 
> previous threads, but with the impending BOSCO BEBE and an eight month old 
> who's anxious to get on a bike, I've got some decisions to make, and I'd 
> love some input.
>
> I'm pretty set on a front seat. It just seems like more fun. I'd love to 
> test a few seats out (front and back) before I buy anything, but I'm not 
> sure I have that option. Does anyone in the Atlanta area have a baby seat 
> or two I can test fit/test ride on a few different bikes? I'd really like 
> to test one of the Yepp models, but any seat I could try out would be 
> really helpful.
>
> My big question is, given my stable and the BOSCO BEBE, should I buy the 
> best seat for one of my current bikes, even if it's not the one I want, or 
> should I buy the seat I think I want, Yepp, mount it on a less than ideal 
> bike. Then shuffle the stable and the checkbook around till I get a bike 
> that works with the seat.
>
> I know the normal people answer is buy a seat for your current bike and 
> just ride, but I'm hoping to take lots of great rides over the next 2-3 
> years, so I can justify a dedicated bike/baby seat combo. I'm just not sure 
> what I want that to look like yet.
>
> Here's the bikes I've got that will work with a seat. Has anyone used a 
> front seat on any similar bikes? How'd it work out?
>
> 1. MTBUBBE - appears that the long head tube makes front seats less than 
> ideal. I'm not sure about the handling with an extra 20 lbs towards the 
> front.
>
> 2. 1984 Trek 720 - The frame is relatively light, but it rides well with a 
> load. The clamp spot for a front seat seems more reasonable, but it might 
> still be tight and the top tube is completely horizontal. I could try it 
> with riser bars instead of drops.
>
> 3. 1985 or so Peugeot MTB (Crazy Horse) - It's an 80s MTB. Super fun to 
> ride. No idea how the seat would fit and how it would handle. Any thoughts?
>
> 4. 90s Cannondale MTB - Pretty similar to the Peugeot, but nicer, newer 
> parts and a threadless stem.
>
> I'm not really interested in trailers right now, even though it's likely 
> that I'll use one eventually.
>
> Maybe a rear seat is the way to go?
> Does anyone have any tips on how to determine whether a front seat will 
> work well on a particular bike?
>
> My guess is that in the end this is all pretty child-dependent, and I 
> shouldn't sink to much time and money into this until I know that my child 
> like to ride bikes. So maybe I just need to experiment a little bit. How 
> would y'all solve this "problem".
>
> Paul in ATL
>
> P.S. Anyone selling a used child seat in good condition? I'm your market. 
> DM me.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[George Schick]

Peter - thanks for the reply.  Actually, the "solvent" I use is Park 
Chainbrite, which is probably not as problematic as a more harsh chemical 
degreaser.  Anyway, I put the chain in an old 22oz. dry roasted peanut jar 
(because it has a nice wide mouth) filled with the chain cleaner, shake it 
good for a while, and then let it settle.  Then, I remove it and using an 
air compressor, I blow as much of the chain cleaner out of the rollers as 
possible, i.e., until I can't see any more coming out when the chain is 
laying on a piece of cardboard.  Finally, after letting the chain dry 
completely and heat up in the sun light, I re-lube each roller with Tri 
Flow, which also has a Teflon suspension.  Seems to work well.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 9:10:40 AM UTC-5, Peter White wrote:
>
> I think the solvent is not such a good idea. I've had success using Finish 
> Line Pro lube with teflon. Solvent is fine if you can be sure you get rid 
> of all of it after cleaning, including under the roller, which might not be 
> such an easy task.
>
> PJW
>
> On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 7:49 PM George Schick  > wrote:
>
>> Peter - does regular cleaning of the chain and cogs, with the chain off 
>> the bike and soaked and agitated in a solvent, help mitigate this problem?  
>> I recently checked the chain on one of my bikes with a chain checker that 
>> receives this kind of maintenance and there was no discernible wear at all 
>> - and it's been on the bike for at least a decade now, ridden in dry and 
>> dusty path conditions.
>>
>>
>>
>
>

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[RBW] Stein-type headset wrench

[Patrick Moore]

I ought to get one of these; I've used the old Park hex style for decades,
with no more damage than burring the edges of a few aluminum locknuts, but
this Stein type will be better

Only, does one have to pay $60 at Missing Link Tools (the sole source
Google showed me) to get one? The only Stein wrench I found is on eBay for
$86.

I agree with Hugh, you just don't have to adjust decent headsets (and just
about any aftermarket headset sold in the US is decent, IME) once you get
them right. Heck, even the OEM ones on generic commodity bikes stay put, as
far as my experience goes.

That said, perhaps I should saven my money, but if I can find a Stein type
for $40 or less, I'll bite.

Now some of the cheap Indian-made headsets I worked on came loose all the
time, but perhaps taht was because I used a "monkey wrench" to "adjust"
them.

So, sources?

Thanks.

PS: What do you (all) use to hold the cup in place while you tighten the
locknut? Me, a large adjustable wrench which hasn't slipped yet.


On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 9:04 AM, Grant Petersen  wrote:

> The "secret" to properly snugging a threaded headset is to use two
> wrenches (in the case of a non-Rinko style). The spanner kind goes on the
> cup flats, and it's really helpful to use the Stein-type (now also made by
> Park) that's chunky and grabs around about 230 degrees and cannot slip
>

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[RBW] Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[Paul Clifton]

I know this topic comes up frequently. I've learned a lot from reading 
previous threads, but with the impending BOSCO BEBE and an eight month old 
who's anxious to get on a bike, I've got some decisions to make, and I'd 
love some input.

I'm pretty set on a front seat. It just seems like more fun. I'd love to 
test a few seats out (front and back) before I buy anything, but I'm not 
sure I have that option. Does anyone in the Atlanta area have a baby seat 
or two I can test fit/test ride on a few different bikes? I'd really like 
to test one of the Yepp models, but any seat I could try out would be 
really helpful.

My big question is, given my stable and the BOSCO BEBE, should I buy the 
best seat for one of my current bikes, even if it's not the one I want, or 
should I buy the seat I think I want, Yepp, mount it on a less than ideal 
bike. Then shuffle the stable and the checkbook around till I get a bike 
that works with the seat.

I know the normal people answer is buy a seat for your current bike and 
just ride, but I'm hoping to take lots of great rides over the next 2-3 
years, so I can justify a dedicated bike/baby seat combo. I'm just not sure 
what I want that to look like yet.

Here's the bikes I've got that will work with a seat. Has anyone used a 
front seat on any similar bikes? How'd it work out?

1. MTBUBBE - appears that the long head tube makes front seats less than 
ideal. I'm not sure about the handling with an extra 20 lbs towards the 
front.

2. 1984 Trek 720 - The frame is relatively light, but it rides well with a 
load. The clamp spot for a front seat seems more reasonable, but it might 
still be tight and the top tube is completely horizontal. I could try it 
with riser bars instead of drops.

3. 1985 or so Peugeot MTB (Crazy Horse) - It's an 80s MTB. Super fun to 
ride. No idea how the seat would fit and how it would handle. Any thoughts?

4. 90s Cannondale MTB - Pretty similar to the Peugeot, but nicer, newer 
parts and a threadless stem.

I'm not really interested in trailers right now, even though it's likely 
that I'll use one eventually.

Maybe a rear seat is the way to go?
Does anyone have any tips on how to determine whether a front seat will 
work well on a particular bike?

My guess is that in the end this is all pretty child-dependent, and I 
shouldn't sink to much time and money into this until I know that my child 
like to ride bikes. So maybe I just need to experiment a little bit. How 
would y'all solve this "problem".

Paul in ATL

P.S. Anyone selling a used child seat in good condition? I'm your market. 
DM me.

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Grant Petersen]

The "secret" to properly snugging a threaded headset is to use two wrenches
(in the case of a non-Rinko style). The spanner kind goes on the cup flats,
and it's really helpful to use the Stein-type (now also made by Park)
that's chunky and grabs around about 230 degrees and cannot slip. You
lightly overtighten the cup, then countersqueeze the keyed washer with
opposing forces on both wrenches. Let me say that if I didn't know exactly
what all these words meant, it would seem like a hassle, but it is super
easy. Like anything on a bike or in life, it takes a little practice to
develop the skill, but so does every mechanical adjustment on your bike.
Once you have it down, it takes roughly 20 seconds, maximum. The actually
tightening, 4-5 seconds.
The PROBLEM is that -- kind of like learning to patch inner tubes or remove
and reinstall the rear wheel when all you ride is Schwalbe tires -- there's
not a lot of opportunity to learn.

On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 5:59 AM, hugh flynn  wrote:

>
> On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 2:37 PM masmojo  wrote:
>
>>
>> ...
>> Riv, people don't have problems with headsets coming loose!? Wow, I
>> wonder what their secret is, I've never owned a bike with a quill stem that
>> didn't  eventually need to be tightened. (& I've tried many techniques to
>> tighten them so they don't come loose). On the other hand I've never had a
>> threadless come loose.
>
>
> Doubt it's Riv specific but in 40+ years and many 1,000's of miles of
> cycling with both threadless and threaded headsets, I've never had a
> problem with either and have yet to perform a field adjustment either on or
> off road.
>
> Hugh "not a big problem for me" Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
>
>> --
> Hugh Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
>
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[RBW] Re: Prayers for Deacon Patrick

[Mat Grewe]

In the Kickapoo region of Wisconsin, we've had a 1,000 year flood, 500 year 
flood, and multiple 100 year floods, all within the last decade...  As 
inconvenient as rivers turning to lakes are, and tree covered hills (and 
roads) turning to mud, there is an underlying beauty that we cannot conquer 
or match.

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[RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Brett Callahan]

Thanks to everyone who has chimed in. I wasn't able to tinker further last 
night, but I'll be replacing the rear cassette and chain. Hopefully that 
solves it. If not, I'll take a long hard look at the hub. 

The B screw is basically all the way in. I'll back that off, too. 

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

The Koolstop nut is basically a M6 Allen/socket nut, but even McMaster 
doesn't stock a replacement . 
However, I've used a normal M6 nut as replacement since the original is not 
hardened and rounds off fairly easily. It does look on the picture that you 
have space around the nut that you don't need an Allen nut, so try a normal 
M6 nut.

For convenience, you can get a Park ST-3 
 socket wrench 
(or the discontinued Hozan equivalent).


On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 6:50:02 AM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>
> Hello All
>
> I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
> is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
> adjust the pad.
> These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to purchase 
> new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
> Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
> substitution is?
> I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
> This is what I'm referring to:
>
>
> 
>
>
> Thank you
>
> Jason
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Steve Palincsar]

No, they don't /all/ come with the hardware.  Some do, but I just bought 
a couple of pairs of pads that did not.



On 07/24/2018 10:13 AM, Drw wrote:

If you buy the post/pad combo from koolstop (riv sells these) they all come 
with that nut.



--
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Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[jandrews]

thank you
I see you can purchase a full set of hardware for both left and right arms 
of one brake...it's inexpensive, so I may do that...just don't need all the 
pieces.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Kool-Stop-Thinline-Hardware-Thinline-Hardware-Enough-For-One-Pair?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnNvaBRCmARIsAOfZq-1Nc04G3ZTbwBiiYTB_1oPuMAdX6OdhTOWAFsxn6ZvxLlxxpQLjD8EaAptqEALw_wcB




On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:02:52 AM UTC-4, Wally Estrella wrote:
>
> Jason,
>
> When replacing old pads for new I save the hardware as future spares.  I'm 
> sure I have some in the spare parts bin at home.  I'll check tonight.  In 
> the mean time if someone chimes in w/ a source that would be great too ;)
>
> CHEERS!
> Wally in Maine
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 9:50:02 AM UTC-4, jandrews wrote:
>>
>> Hello All
>>
>> I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
>> is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
>> adjust the pad.
>> These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to 
>> purchase new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
>> Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
>> substitution is?
>> I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
>> This is what I'm referring to:
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>> Jason
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Drw]

If you buy the post/pad combo from koolstop (riv sells these) they all come 
with that nut. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Peter White]

I think the solvent is not such a good idea. I've had success using Finish
Line Pro lube with teflon. Solvent is fine if you can be sure you get rid
of all of it after cleaning, including under the roller, which might not be
such an easy task.

PJW

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 7:49 PM George Schick  wrote:

> Peter - does regular cleaning of the chain and cogs, with the chain off
> the bike and soaked and agitated in a solvent, help mitigate this problem?
> I recently checked the chain on one of my bikes with a chain checker that
> receives this kind of maintenance and there was no discernible wear at all
> - and it's been on the bike for at least a decade now, ridden in dry and
> dusty path conditions.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Wally Estrella]

Jason,

When replacing old pads for new I save the hardware as future spares.  I'm 
sure I have some in the spare parts bin at home.  I'll check tonight.  In 
the mean time if someone chimes in w/ a source that would be great too ;)

CHEERS!
Wally in Maine

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 9:50:02 AM UTC-4, jandrews wrote:
>
> Hello All
>
> I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
> is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
> adjust the pad.
> These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to purchase 
> new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
> Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
> substitution is?
> I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
> This is what I'm referring to:
>
>
> 
>
>
> Thank you
>
> Jason
>
>

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[RBW] Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[jandrews]

Hello All

I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
adjust the pad.
These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to purchase 
new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
substitution is?
I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
This is what I'm referring to:




Thank you

Jason

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[hugh flynn]

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 2:37 PM masmojo  wrote:

>
> ...
> Riv, people don't have problems with headsets coming loose!? Wow, I wonder
> what their secret is, I've never owned a bike with a quill stem that
> didn't  eventually need to be tightened. (& I've tried many techniques to
> tighten them so they don't come loose). On the other hand I've never had a
> threadless come loose.


Doubt it's Riv specific but in 40+ years and many 1,000's of miles of
cycling with both threadless and threaded headsets, I've never had a
problem with either and have yet to perform a field adjustment either on or
off road.

Hugh "not a big problem for me" Flynn
Newburyport, MA

> --
Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA

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[RBW] WTB Soma Express 650b x 38 Black skinwall

[Marc Irwin]

I really love these tires for my city bike.  Apparently they stopped making 
them but I could use one if there is one out there.

Marc

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